6dfvdfv by gtnhtyn

FlexWashâ&#x201E;¢

One Machine. Two Washers.

FlexDry ™

One Machine. Two Dryers.

FOOD & WINE

NOVEMBER 82

108 68

101

THE THANKSGIVING ISSUE The New American Table 91 Dinner at the Currys’ 108 14 Hungry Crowd Actor Debra Messing 16 Objects of Desire Hard Cider 21 Trendspotting What’s Hot Now 30 Restaurant Scout Philadelphia’s Palizzi Social Club 34 Where to Go Next Cozy Restaurants 38 The Good Life Off the Grid (Sort of) in Japan 40 Chef Dispatch Chicago 43 In the Kitchen Gail Simmons 52 Seasonal Cooking Pies 59 Holiday Cooking Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving 76 Travel Journal Postcard from Minneapolis 82 Bottle Service America on Tap 126 Most Wanted Chef Jenn Louis’s Turkey Shwarma with Cabbage Salad On the cover: The perfect holiday plate (p. 59) from “Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving.” Photograph by Con Poulos; food styling by Simon Andrews; style editor: Suzie Myers N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: eva kolenko; con poulos; cinder wines; john kernick; paola + murray; john kernick. on the cover: plate by stephanie charlene ceramics

With the Global Dining Collection, you can enjoy special access to reservations and experiences with some of your favorite chefs. Get a taste of Membership at americanexpress.com/exploreplatinum

Rese Reservat eservatio rvattions ions ion ns an a experiences and p ess aree based on a firs rstt co come me, me e first serve basis annd su subjec bject bjec j t to lim mited ite ted ava availab ililab labilit lity. y In the event oof a resserva ervation tion on canncelll atio a i n, the Card Member will be su ject to the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s can sub subj canc an ella llattion ppolicy, y which chh will willll bee communicated too the Card Membber by Concie Conci nc rge rgg at thhe time m of booki oo ng. ooki gg. Conc Con on ierg e ge iis not resspponsible ib for informi m ngg the he rest restaura au nt off yo your ur dieta iettary ryy restrictions or for thee rreesta estaurant being able es ble to acco accommod mmodate mmod atee thee rest restrict rictions rict ion ; we do ask that you io ions o pro provide v de thi hiss informatio in tionn direct directlly to tthe restaurant.

RECIPE INDEX

Salads & Vegetables

recipe key

● ● Acorn Squash and Escarole Salad

● fast Can be prepared

p. 62

in 45 minutes or less.

● vegetarian Contains no

● staff favorite

● Kale Salad with Bacon-Brown

Sugar Vinaigrette p. 114

Recipe we especially love.

● ● Roasted Vegetables with Smashed-

Our Walnut Vinaigrette p. 72 favorite new ● Savory Kale Salad p. 122 party nuts.

● ● Four-Cheese Fondue p. 120

● ● ● Mixed Nuts with Crispy Herbs

and Garlic p. 60 Seaweed Soup p. 118 ● ● Winter Galette p. 49

Breads, Potatoes & More

● Coconut Curry Cornbread Stuffing

p. 116

● ● Fragrant Rice with Pepitas and

Dates p. 114

Meat & Poultry

● Herb-Scented Mashed Potatoes

p. 64

● Clementine-and-Garlic Roast Turkey p. 68

● ● Pull-Apart Rolls p. 70

● Farmhouse Turkey Hot Dish p. 80

Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb p. 116

● Late-Night Fried Chicken p. 120

Pork-and-Apple Bedfordshire Clangers p. 54 ● Pork-and-Brisket Chili p. 100 Pork-and-Potato Curry p. 120 Spatchcocked Turkey with Pink Peppercorns and Thyme p. 114 ● ● Turkey Shwarma with Cabbage Salad

● ● Scallion-Corn Muffins p. 101

Sausage, Red Onion and Kale p. 72 Wild Mushrooms and Spinach p. 44 ● Spice-Rubbed Roasted Potatoes p. 122

Sauces & Condiments

p. 68

Breakfast & Brunch ● ● Breakfast Popcorn and Milk p. 118

p. 39 ● Pancetta-Wrapped Trout with

● ● Ricotta and Scallion Egg Pie p. 56

Grilled Scallions p. 36 Pecan-and-Maple-Glazed Salmon

● Smashed-Banana Bread p. 118

● ● Za’atar Baked Eggs p. 46

Sage and Lemon p. 78 ● ● Pasta with Scallops, Capers and

p. 116

● Chile Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

p. 48

● Arctic Char with Soba and

Green Beans p. 118 ● Japanese-Style Eel and Rice Bowl

● Cranberry Sauce with Cointreau

and Star Anise p. 122

Vietnamese Lemongrass Meatballs

Fish & Shellfish

with

Crisp, elegant Champagne: NV Taittinger Brut La Française (p. 114).

● ● Roasted Cranberry-Grape Sauce

p. 50

SPATCHCOCKED TURKEY WITH PINK PEPPERCORNS AND THYME

● ● Spaghetti Pie with

p. 125

● Sourdough Stuffing with

Desserts

● Butterscotch Pudding Pie p. 48

● ● Chewy Black Licorice Chocolate

Three holiday ● flavors rolled into one cake.

Brownies p. 50 MoKan Nut Pie p. 101 Rum Caramel Bread Pudding with No-Churn Pumpkin Ice Cream and Candied Pepitas p. 124 Sweet Potato and Coffee Cream Pie

WINTER GALETTE with

Full-bodied California Chardonnay: 2015 Cambria Fog Tide (p. 49).

p. 54 ● ● Three-Layer Thanksgiving Cake p. 74

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662. Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). November 2017, Vol. 40, No. 11. Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37; Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2017 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from top: eva kolenko; john kernick

Soups & Starters

● ● Celery Root, Apple and Fennel Slaw

p. 101

meat, poultry or seafood.

Staff-Favorite Pairings

CARVE YOUR OWN PATH THE AGGRESSIVE LEXUS GS To follow the road is one thing. To bend it into submission is quite another. It’s a feeling you’ll get used to in the GS 300, with a track-tuned chassis that exudes performance. And the GS 350, with a 311-horsepower* V6 engine. Or the GS 450 Hybrid that’s as exhilarating as it is fuel efficient. Available in F SPORT, each GS is made for aggressively leaving the competition behind. VARIABLE DRIVE MODES

OPTIONAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE

EIGHT-SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH PADDLE SHIFTERS (RWD)

AVAILABLE 12.3-INCH MULTIMEDIA DISPLAY

lexus.com/GS | #LexusGS

editor in chief Hunter Lewis deputy editor executive food editor executive wine editor digital director

Christine Quinlan Kate Heddings Ray Isle Danica Lo

feat ures fo o d restaurant editor Jordana Rothman style editor Suzie Myers deputy digital editor Noah Kaufman senior engagement editor Meg Clark associate restaurant editor Elyse Inamine associate news editor Adam Campbell-Schmitt digital reporter Elisabeth Sherman editorial assistant Hannah Walhout wine intern Cyle Cucinotta

co py & resea rc h copy chief Elizabeth Herr senior editor Amanda Woytus associate research editor

Erin Laverty Healy new york university food studies intern

Devon Walsh

test kitchen deputy editor Justin Chapple test kitchen senior editor Laura Rege test kitchen associate editor Paige McCurdy-Flynn test kitchen assistant Kelsey Youngman intern Danielle Wayda

a rt art director James Maikowski designer Mark Romero

p h oto photo editor Sara Parks associate photo editor Dan Bailey photo assistant Rebecca Delman digital photo editor Abby Hocking

p ro duct i o n Joseph Colucci (Director), John Markic, Nestor Cervantes (Managers) digital operations editor Elsa Säätelä digital producer Megan Soll

digital content director, food@time inc.

Stacey Rivera

c hefs - i n - res i d e n ce Grant Achatz, Hugh Acheson, José Andrés, Mario Batali, April Bloomfield, Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, Roy Choi, Jacques Pépin, Eric Ripert, Andrew Zimmern

co n t ri buto rs Daniel Duane, Anthony Giglio, Paolo Lucchesi, Ivy Manning, Amanda McClements, Jim Meehan, Erin Murray, Amy Rosen, Jane Sigal, Jennifer Sommer, Joshua David Stein, Emily Kaiser Thelin, Anya von Bremzen, Gisela Williams

t i m e i n c. president and chief executive officer Rich Battista chief operating officer and evp Jen Wong chief financial officer and evp Sue D’Emic chief content officer Alan Murray editorial director, lifestyle group Nathan Lump executive vice presidents

Leslie Dukker Doty, Brad Elders, Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lauren Ezrol Klein, Steve Marcopoto, Erik Moreno

co m m un i cat i o n s vice president Beth Jacobson senior publicist Victoria Chow

o p e rat i o n s production director Rosemarie Iazzetta production operations manager James Flynn senior production manager Elizabeth Mata ad production specialist Kritanya Onzima Das

hum a n resources vice president Stacie Sullivan Occasionally, FOOD & WINE makes portions of our magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact Subscriber Services at 800-333-6569 or write to: TCS, P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662-2160. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. For reprint information, contact: PARS International Corp., 212-221-9595 or reprints@parsintl.com; magreprints.com. FOOD & WINE Cookbooks Service, 800-284-4145.

printed in the u.s.a.

E x p e r i e n c e t h e de l i c i o us f e e l i ng of cal l i ng you r own s hot s.

Get precisely what you want from every bite. Or sip. Wolf never asks you to settle for less than the result you like. Our built-in coffee system, for example, enables you to dial in every variable exactly as you prefer. Temperature, strength, even foam level. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ideal combination of convenience and control. wolfappliance.com

Wolf Coffee System

ROOTED IN

TO KALON INSPIRED BY PERFECTION

From Robert Mondavi’s lifelong vision for a first-growth vineyard comes THE RESERVE — a legendary bottle boasting five decades of 90+ scores .

HUNGRY CROWD

ACTOR

IN PRAISE OF FRIENDSGIVING

WHAT'S FOR DINNER?

When I was growing up, Thanksgiving was a big deal at my family’s home in Rhode Island. But the past few years I’ve spent it with my best friends in New York City, and it’s been lovely. Before we eat, everyone goes around and talks about what they’re grateful for and what they’re hopeful for in the coming year, and I always find it moving and surprising.

I’m not great in the kitchen. I make salads very well. Does that count? When I’m with my son, we generally eat at 5:30 or 6, right before homework. We don’t eat anything the same. It’s kid-friendly stuff for him and things like quinoa salad and baked salmon for me. And there’s always avocado involved. Tons of avocado. I can’t get enough.

TURKEY TRANSCENDENCE

When it comes to Thanksgiving dinner, there’s nothing better than the trifecta of turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce, all on one fork. For me that is nirvana.

DREAM TRIP

The best vacation I have ever taken was to Fez, Morocco. I felt like I was transported back to biblical times. The colors, the smells, the people’s faces—everything was so vivid and memorable.

FOOD ISSUES

SNACKS ON SET

It’s a life-changing experience to realize that you have dietary restrictions, and at first it’s depressing. It’s hard to accept because food is such a powerful thing to bond over. There are thankfully now wonderful options, whatever your issues are. I honestly can’t imagine knowing about my allergies 20 years ago.

N O V E M B E R 2017

When we’re filming I usually have avocado with lemon and salt, green apples and almond butter, and green juice. And there is always a Billy’s Infinity-C Bar in my bag. It’s raw, organic, glutenfree and a great way to get vitamin C and protein. —INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

left and right: john kernick; center: robert trachtenberg

Debra Messing, back in her Emmy-winning role on Will & Grace, on the power of gratitude and her avocado addiction.

Host One To Remember

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

F&W

TASTE TEST

Cider House Rules HOW DO WE LIKE THEM APPLES? IN HARD CIDER, PLEASE. FROM SMALL-PRODUCTION RELEASES TO LARGER-SCALE CRAFT BOTTLINGS, AMERICA’S CIDER REVIVAL CONTINUES TO SPARKLE. THESE SEVEN ARE WORTH THE SEARCH.

Angry Orchard

Shacksbury

Made with eight types of apple, the unfiltered Easy Apple Less Sweet is also low in alcohol (4.2%), which makes it a great introduction to the world of cider. angryorchard.com.

This Vermont cidery excels at balancing complexity with drinkability, and now that some of its ciders are available in cans, they’re even more approachable— and less expensive than the larger-format bottles. Our top picks: the Semi-Dry, whose bright acidity keeps it crisp and not too sweet, and the lightly sparkling, citrusy Arlo (pictured). shacksbury.com.

Austin Eastciders

The Texas Honey, which is available in cans, blends bittersweet and dessert apples with local honey for just a hint of sweetness. It makes a killer base for whiskey cocktails. austineastciders.com.

The well-known Belgian beer company makes this light, easy-to-drink cider in upstate New York. Stylistically, it walks a successful line between sweet, massmarket bottles and typically more austere craft versions. stellaartois.com.

This New Hampshire producer was a pioneer in bringing back true cider-apple varieties. We love the Extra Dry, which bears a subtle resemblance to Champagne, and the gently sweet Semi-Dry, which can take you from hors d’oeuvres all the way through dessert on Thanksgiving. poverty laneorchards.com.

Wandering Aengus

Organic heirloom apples sourced from across Oregon go into this cidery’s singlevarietal bottles and blends. One standout: the tangy, floral, lightly sweet Bloom. It pairs perfectly with an Oregon cheese, such as Face Rock Creamery’s buttery Clothbound Cheddar. wandering aengus.com.

Foggy Ridge

Made in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, the deliciously tart First Fruit bottling is almost wine-like in its complexity. Proprietor Diane Flynt makes it with early season heirloom apples, which add a vivid tanginess. foggyridgecider.com. N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: john kernick; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

Stella Cidre

Farnum Hill

I T’S YO UR PLAYGROUND. YOU M AKE THE R ULE S.

The c o mplete Bl a ck Sta inless Co l l ect i o n fro m Kitc henAi d. Bec a use when yo u ha ve t he right to o l s, yo ur kitc hen c a n be a nyt hi ng y o u wa nt it to be — a nd wha tev er yo u need i t to be. Lea r n mo re a t Kitc henAid.co m.

YOURS FOR THE MAKING

WELCOME TO THE TEA HOUSE. PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE. Also available in these flavors: Fuji Apple & Ginger

• Valencia Orange Peel • Wild Blackberry & Sage

WHAT’S HOT NOW

COZY EDITION

TREND SPOTTING PRODUCED BY ELYSE INAMINE

REMOTE ACCESS

Love the idea of getting cozy in a backcountry lodge so far off the grid you can’t even drive there? At these four Canadian retreats, you’ll revel in exquisite solitude—without compromising on cuisine. —FARRAH SHAIKH M C LAREN ASSINIBOINE LODGE There are no roads leading to this UNESCO World Heritage site on Mount Assiniboine in British Columbia. Intrepid travelers can helicopter, hike or cross-country ski to the 12 woodsy cabins and rooms, then refuel with fortifying dishes like pork tenderloin with smashed potatoes. assiniboinelodge.com.

courtesy of travel alberta

CHATTER CREEK LODGE The only way to get to this massive log house three hours east of Calgary is by helicopter. You may find it equally tough to leave, thanks to ample snowcat and skiing opportunities, plus thoughtful cooking from chef Melanie Murphy. chattercreek.ca. LAKE O’HARA LODGE Worlds away from the throngs at Whistler, Yoho National Park offers a quieter side of British Columbian wilderness. Settle in at this oasis: Eight rooms feature afternoon tea and breathtaking views, while chef Jessica Collins serves up crowd-pleasers like roast lamb with celeriac. lakeohara.com.

A cabin at Storm Mountain Lodge in Banff National Park.

STORM MOUNTAIN LODGE Located in Alberta’s Banff National Park, these cabins have drawn hikers, skiers and snowshoers since the 1920s. Chef Guillaume Sylvain recently revamped the food program, using the lodge’s main fireplace to roast vegetables. stormmountainlodge.com. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

N OV E M B E R 2017

Trendspotting

Comfort Zone The Scandinavian philosophy known as hygge (pronounced hue-guh) is about not just enduring but also embracing winter by cultivating coziness. A buzzword in lifestyle circles, it’s the focus of a new book by Gunnar Gíslason, the chef behind Dill in Reykjavík, Iceland. Written with author Jody Eddy, The Hygge Life ($22) is filled with tips on how to kindle your inner hearth.

What’s Hot Now

THE ULTIMATE CHEESY BREAD

Words you don’t expect to hear from a celebrated baker: “It’s not about the bread— it’s about the cheese.” That’s Melissa Weller, the carb whisperer who made her name in New York City feeding the ovens at Roberta’s and Sadelle’s. Now the pastry chef at Walnut Street Café in Philadelphia (walnutstreetcafe.com), Weller is currently obsessed with khachapuri, a football-shaped treat native to the Caucasus nation of Georgia. She’s not alone: Across the country, chefs like John Fraser at Narcbar in New York City and Josef Centeno at P.Y.T. in Los Angeles are serving their own versions, perfect for sating cold-weather cravings. Here’s what makes Weller’s stand out.

Fermenting and chilling before baking give the dough its bounce.

Develop a fortifying morning ritual. Take a hike with turkaffe (coffee breaks). Add more spice to your coffee with a little vanilla extract.

Make hostess gifts. It’s the ultimate hygge gesture of gratitude. Make aromatic sugars with lavender or, for a Scandinavian touch, juniper.

Weller’s go-to cheese-filling combo mixes Bulgarian feta with shreds of Jasper Hill cheddar and Gruyère.

Try new riffs on classic cocktails. Although hygge embraces nostalgia, Gíslason encourages fresh takes. Try his Old Tom cocktail, with smoky mezcal and sweet vermouth.

There’s always egg, but a few rolled-up slices of ham add savory heft.

The nigella seeds that dot the dough are a nontraditional touch, but Weller loves their peppery flavor.

ALL ABOARD! Want to traverse Europe in retro-glamorous style? Book a ride on the luxurious Venice Simplon-Orient Express, the same train featured in the remake of Murder on the Orient Express, in movie theaters now. Along the route from London to Venice, you can take in the passing scenery from 1920s-era cars, dine at the train’s three restaurants and enjoy Bellinis in a bar car. From $2,745; belmond.com. N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Embrace soul-warming foods. Gíslason shares recipes like a potato soup with smoked haddock and dill that is perfect for a self-care supper.

Introducing the New King of the Concrete Jungle. The all-new Tiguan. Here we see the all-new Volkswagen Tiguan in its natural habitat. The completely redesigned exterior, bold lines, and aggressive stance are a double take waiting to happen. Inside, the Tiguan is a different kind of majestic. With available premium leather seating surfaces and Volkswagen Digital Cockpit that makes navigating so instinctive, you can get lost without ever getting lost. And available 4MOTION® all-wheel drive means you can conquer almost any road, concrete or otherwise. Dramatization. Do not attempt. Always wear proper seat restraints in a moving safari vehicle. Optional accessories shown. Always ensure that your vehicle is equipped with appropriate tires and equipment and always adjust your speed and driving style to the road, terrain, traffic, and weather conditions. See Owner’s Manual for further details and important limitations. *MY2018 Tiguan 6 years/72,000 miles (whichever occurs first) New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Based on manufacturers’ published data on transferable Bumper-to-bumper/Basic warranty only. Not based on other separate warranties. See owner’s literature or dealer for warranty limitations. ©2017 Volkswagen of America, Inc.

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

PLUGGED IN

You already know about chefs and their pressure cooker obsessions, the slow cooker revival and the Instant Pot—a new-school contraption that combines both. But when food writer Melissa Clark pens a book, Dinner in an Instant ($22), dedicated to them, you pay attention. Based on her research, here’s a crash course in the hottest kitchen appliances right now.

Stocking stuffer alert! We’re loving this simple spatula made by the Dutch oven experts at Le Creuset. Its silicone base holds up to the heartiest of dishes, and its vibrant hue adds a splash of panache. $15; lecreuset.com.

SLOW COOKER

MULTIPOT

WHO IT’S GOOD FOR

Control freaks

Technophobes

Versatile cooks

WHY IT’S WORTH IT

For quick cooking, a pressure cooker allows you to adjust the heat, so you can crank up the temperature to cook off extra liquid and intensify flavor.

It’s been around since the 1940s, so it’s low-tech and easy to figure out. The large oval shape lends itself to bigger braises.

BEST FOR COOKING

Brisket

The cultish gadget combines the virtues of both slow cooking and pressure cooking— and makes rice and yogurt— which means one less appliance and more counter space for you.

BEST FOR COOKING

Soups and stews

Dried beans and grains

clockwise from top left: le creuset; christopher testani; marcus nilsson; city mercantile

STIRRING IT UP

PRESSURE COOKER

Keeping the Fires Burning Summer barbecue season may be behind us, but Brooklyn chefs aren’t packing up their grill tools just yet. Here are some autumn grilling pointers from three wood-fired cooking stars. KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS “Summer is about quick grilling, but fall foods like a longer process,” says Lee Desrosiers, the chef at Achilles Heel (right). He especially likes to slow-roast in-season squash and cabbage.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE FIRE Norberto Piattoni grew up grilling every Sunday with family in Argentina—no matter the weather. So the chef of Metta knows about adjusting for the seasons. “When it’s cooler outside, you will need to compensate with more heat, so turn up the fire and monitor closely,” he says.

MAKE USE OF THE COALS Those glowing embers are perfect for low-and-slow cooking, notes Garett McMahan, the chef behind Celestine. “Peel a whole onion and leave it in the smoldering coals for hours,” he says. “You get an amazing bittersweet flavor.”

AMARO AMORE As soon as the weather turns colder, we start craving rye Manhattans, especially when spiked with our favorite new mixer: Lo-Fi Brand Aperitif’s Gentian Amaro. Flavored with hibiscus, cinchona bark and gentian root, the bitter herbal liqueur tastes as delicious on its own over ice as it does swirled into a cocktail. Snag a bottle for your home bar. $25; lofiaperitifs.com. »

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

CALLING ALL THOSE

APPETITE F O R

WITH AN

ROMANCE.

A desert sunset, a romantic stroll, and the perfect glass of wine – this is vintage Omni. From locally inspired cuisine to our award-winning spas and an endless variety of activities, Omni captures the essence of the place you’re in like no one else. Visit the Omni Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Montelucia or any of our 60 properties

O M N I HOT E LS.C OM

for a weekend getaway you’ll remember forever.

M ONTE LUC I A | SCOT T S DAL E

∙

L A COSTA | C ARL S BA D

∙

A ME L I A I S L A N D PL A N TAT I O N | F LO R I DA

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

Dumplings taste even better when it’s cool outside—and chefs seem to agree with these standout takes.

Empanada Timber Pizza in Washington, DC, is best known for its pies, but don’t skip the empanadas, ingeniously baked in the wood-fired oven. timberpizza.com. Kubeh Melanie Shurka fell in love with this Middle Eastern dumpling made with semolina dough and filled with ground beef while studying law in Tel Aviv. Her New York City shop offers several versions. eatkubeh.com. Momo These aromatic dumplings are everywhere in Nepal, and they’re making waves in Columbus, Ohio. Phuntso Lama, the owner of Momo Ghar, is opening another outpost of her homey counter. 614-749-2901.

Pelmeni The popular Portland, Oregon, restaurant Kachka has a second location in the works, with Russian pelmeni to go. kachkapdx.com.

NEXT STOP: CINCINNATI

The Queen City charms with forward-thinking restaurants, well-stocked shops and more. Here are some highlights of this Rust Belt revival story. ANALOG COFFEE BAR After expanding last year, this hip café in Newport, across the Ohio River in Kentucky, doubled down on the coffee geekery. The menu is divided by eight brewing methods, while owners Justin and Emily Carabello offer ticketed coffee tastings. carabello coffee.com. ARTICHOKE Design professor Karen Hughes and her husband, Brad,

opened this sleek hybrid kitchen shop and cooking school in the Over-the-Rhine neighborhood. artichokeotr.com.

PLEASE Ryan Santos, an alum of Relae restaurant in Copenhagen, is quietly cooking Cincy’s most ambitious food

at this spare but stylish restaurant, also in Over-theRhine. Look out for spicebush-infused ice cream. please cincinnati.com.

LONGFELLOW There’s more to this funky spot in Pendleton than its whimsical cocktails. Owner Mike Stankovich uses a countertop induction burner and toaster to cook up delicious pierogies and other bar bites. longfellow bar.com.

21C MUSEUM HOTEL CINCINNATI This Central Business District hotel stages a new art exhibition each season. On view this fall is “The Future is Female,” which showcases 28 women artists. 21cmuseumhotels .com/cincinnati.

Up your own pelmeni game with the new Kachka book.

F&W style editorYrsxlf Suzie Clxan” Myers tipped off to this serving board, and it’s not the whilx kind you stash away. Thx Soundtrack Soundtrac PARTY of OurSTARTER Sxarch Wx hxard “Dancx by LCDusSoundsystxm in nxarly xvxry dining room rxsxarching Bxst see it as track functional art,” says woodworker Ball ofscouting the Oakland-based design company Jacob May. Sure enough, Nxw Chxfs. Chxfs Thx T “I slow-burn was so ubiquitous during ourDave rxstaurant that wx dxvisxd a Jamxs Murphy drinking gamx. Go and looksup!—TK just as Namx good loaded up with canapés as it does hanging on the wall from its leather loop. $140; jacob-may.com. throw yyour littlx ithands

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: devyn glista; carly diaz; brooke shanesy photography; david cicconi

HOT STUFF

Neon marks the entrance to South Philly’s refurbished Palizzi Social Club.

Members Only

T EXACTLY 6 P.M. every Thursday through Sunday, red neon letters blink to life above the glass door of an unassuming row house in South Philadelphia. That’s your cue. Ring the brass doorbell and flash your membership card for inspection. At Palizzi Social Club, this speakeasy two-step isn’t a shtick; it’s been standard since 1918, when immigrants from Vasto, a seaside village in Abruzzo, founded the place. “It was a smoky joint where you could play cards and drink,” says Joey Baldino, whose uncle Ernest Mezzaroba started managing the club in the 1950s. “But it was also a support system for the community.”

CHEF JOEY BALDINO REVIVES AN OLD-SCHOOL ITALIAN HANGOUT FOR A NEW GENERATION. MEET THE RED SAUCE SAVIOR OF PHILADELPHIA. BY ADAM ERACE

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

RESTAURANT SCOUT

Restaurant Scout

Palizzi Social Club

from left:

As a kid, Baldino hung out in the kitchen, slinging roast pork sandwiches after church on Sundays. He’d go on to log 10 years at Philadelphia Italian stalwart Vetri before opening his own Sicilian restaurant, Zeppoli, in the quiet suburb of Collingswood, New Jersey. It quickly became a cult favorite among local chefs. But Baldino always maintained a close connection to Palizzi, even as the area’s Italian social-club culture faded. “The tradition was dying,” says Baldino. So was his uncle. “When he asked me to take over, I was honored.” After giving Palizzi a subtle 21st-century refresh, Baldino reopened it last winter, with a menu inspired by his mother’s and grandmother’s home cooking. He dug deep into the family recipe box, bringing his culinary skills to bear on food

that tugs at the heartstrings: Fritto misto is feather-light; tripe is braised in cinnamon-tinged tomato sauce; artichoke petals are packed with lemony stuffing and sprinkled with salty Pecorino Romano. He rewrote Palizzi’s outdated charter to be more inclusive—20 membership cards are available for purchase at the door every night ($20), and there’s always space for Baldino’s hungry industry friends. On a recent Sunday evening, Michael Solomonov of Zahav rolled in for crabs and spaghetti. On another it was local sushi talent Jesse Ito of Royal Izakaya. One night Questlove stopped by for a taste of Baldino’s classic stromboli. “I want to expose people to my heritage,” Baldino says. “This is my neighborhood. This is how I was raised.” Other than the charter, Baldino has changed very little. He resurrected an old cigarette machine and updated the bar, introducing craft cocktails like a silky Negroni milk punch. Because of its social-club license, Palizzi can serve booze until 3 a.m.—an hour longer than most places in Philly—doubling down on its popularity as a post-shift destination for chefs. They linger late, toasting in the faux-pine-paneled room, while “Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy” warbles over the speakers. But the spirit of Palizzi is the same as it ever was. Case in point: Delores Marshall. The longtime Baldino family friend is an ambassador of the old guard. She works the floor, delivering plates of sfingi, anise-sugared doughnuts, and planting kisses on diners’ cheeks. The food may be better and the drinks more polished, but at Palizzi, thankfully, some things never change. 1408 S. 12th St.; palizzisocial.com.

Adam Erace, a food and travel writer, was born and raised in South Philadelphia.

“I want to expose people to my heritage. This is my neighborhood. This is how I was raised.” —joey baldino, palizzi social club N OV E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Artifacts from the original Palizzi Social Club include signed photographs of local Italian luminaries and leather-bound ledgers; Baldino holds court in the restaurant, which is outfitted with a rehabbed cigarette machine he hauled out of the basement.

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. ÂŠ 2017 Meiomi Wines, Acampo, CA

Bold berry aromas. Rich, velvety texture. All lead to the great taste of Meiomi Pinot Noir.

Discover more at Meiomi.com

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Warming Italian classics plus a roaring fire add up to a perfect meal.

When temperatures start dropping outside, we grab a fireside table at the cozy Wm. Mulherin’s Sons.

1 Wm. Mulherin’s Sons

Comfort and Joy

Fishtown has emerged in recent years as Philadelphia’s buzziest neighborhood for art, music and food. One of our favorite spots, Wm. Mulherin’s Sons, is in a former whiskey blending and bottling factory. Its rooms are a seamless mix of old and new, with large arched windows, exposed brick and reclaimed timber ceilings. A fireplace and cushy sofa anchor the main dining area, while another room includes an open kitchen with a wood oven, making it just as inviting. The blistered pizza topped with speck and a runny egg is our go-to for brunch (and often dinner, too). And don’t miss chef Chris Painter’s stellar pastas, like tortelloni with rabbit, mortadella and pistachios, or maccheroni alla chitarra with scallops, olives, capers and scallions (p. 36). If you get a little too comfortable, the restaurant has a mini boutique hotel upstairs with four beautifully restored rooms. wmmulherinssons.com.

FIVE NEW SOUL-NOURISHING RESTAURANTS TAKE COMFORT FOOD TO THE NEXT LEVEL. BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

heidi’s bridge

PHILADELPHIA

IN THE TIME IT TAKES TO READ THIS AD, WE’VE MADE LITTLE TO NO PROGRESS. We slow-roast the finest 100% Weber Blue Agave for more than three days and then slowly crush it with a two-ton tahona stone wheel. The result is an earthy, complex taste that’s more than worth the wait.

The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 42-45% abv.

Where to Go Next

Cozy Restaurants

2 Giant

CHICAGO

F&W Best New Chef alum Jason Vincent has a knack for creating food you crave—even before you know you’re craving it. At his bustling, shotgun-style restaurant, Vincent does irresistible modern takes on comfort dishes, like his onion rings fried in Parmesan batter and topped with fresh cheese; sweet corn jazzed up with peanuts, mint and Thai chiles; and pasta with bacon and jalapeños. Get a reservation on the calendar now and looking ahead to winter suddenly won’t seem so bad. giantrestaurant.com.

3 Counter Reformation

PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA

Tucked inside the groovy Jonathan Adler–designed Parker hotel, this intimate 14-seat wine shrine, which includes an antique confessional, will make a convert out of anyone. By-the-glass and bottle options include eclectic and affordable picks you won’t find everywhere else, like Fausse Piste Le Communard, an unusual white blend from an offbeat, upand-coming Oregon winemaker. The list was constructed to complement the bar’s small plates, like a rye tartine with halloumi, avocado and shaved Ibérico ham, or beef carpaccio with truffle chimichurri. This little hideaway is the perfect snug spot on chilly desert nights. theparkerpalmsprings.com.

At Philadelphia’s Wm. Mulherin’s Sons, chef Chris Painter excels at rustic pastas.

4 The Antler Room

This husband-and-wife-run spot is further proof that innovative things are happening away from the coasts. Nicholas and Leslie Goellner worked in restaurants all over the world before returning to their hometown of Kansas City to open their first place together. And the Antler Room is a family affair: Leslie’s father built the tables and breadboards, among other things; Nick’s father did the plumbing and electrical work; Leslie’s stepfather helped negotiate the lease; and her mother made the curtains. Look for the visually stunning squash carpaccio, prepared with a delicious mix of flavors and textures, including croutons, charred leeks and pistachios. And if the large-format roast duck, served with flatbread and fermented honey, is on the menu (it depends on the local farm’s stock), don’t miss it. theantlerroomkc.com.

Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

The wood-fired oven at Wm. Mulherin’s Sons creates flavor as well as an intimate atmosphere. In a variation on pasta puttanesca, grilled scallions add smokiness and char. 8 scallions 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt and pepper 12 oz. maccheroni alla chitarra or linguine pasta

5 Tullibee

MINNEAPOLIS

½ lb. sea scallops, cut into ½-inch-thick batons

This lodge-inspired space (left), on the ground floor of a former logging warehouse that is now the Hewing Hotel, maintains much of its original character with exposed timber and brick, tall ceilings and plenty of patinated metals. We like to settle in at the bar or on one of the leather sofas by the crackling fire in the lounge and order a Hewing Old Fashioned or the aquavit punch garnished with torched spruce. Our favorite bites include the snackable flatbreads (lefse) and housemade charcuterie, as well as a deliciously smoky burger. hewinghotel.com.

N O V E M B E R 2017

½ cup drained capers, rinsed ¼ cup Taggiasca olives, coarsely chopped 2 cups drained whole peeled Italian tomatoes, chopped ½ cup finely chopped parsley

1. Light a grill or heat a cast-iron skillet. Drizzle the scallions with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, about 2 minutes. Let cool, then chop the scallions coarsely.

2. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta. Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat. 3. Wipe out the pot and heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Add them to the pot and cook over high heat, stirring once or twice, until very lightly browned in spots and just firm, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a plate. 4. In the same pot, cook the charred scallions with the capers and olives over moderately high heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and reserved water and cook, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom, until bubbling, about 5 minutes. Add the pasta and cook, stirring, until the sauce is slightly reduced and the pasta is coated, 3 to 5 minutes. 5. Fold the scallops and parsley into the pasta and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to shallow bowls or a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and serve. WINE Savory Italian white:

2014 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Podium.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from top: heidi’s bridge; eliesa johnson

Pasta with Scallops, Capers and Grilled Scallions

KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI

We don’t hide the “real” Jackson behind the scenes. VisitJacksonHole.com

WHAT MOST PEOPLE CALL THE “OLD WEST” WE CALL LAST NIGHT.

THE GOOD LIFE

Luxe “camping” at Hoshinoya Fuji includes lovely views of Lake Kawaguchi from climate-controlled, bug-free cabins.

Off the Grid (Sort of) in Japan

ID YOU FEEL THE EARTHQUAKE last night?” read the text from my friend Emily, with whom I’d been staying in Tokyo. “Was it crazy to have the ground shaking beneath you while camping in a tent?” “LOL!” I wrote back from a crispsheeted bed in an air-conditioned room with a stunning Mount Fuji view and robust Wi-Fi. “Didn’t feel it, and the only tent I’ve used was the one that covered the six possible seasonings for my perfectly grilled steak. I’m not camping—I’m glamping.” The previous day I’d taken a bento box and two trains in my retreat from the roaring August heat and humidity of Tokyo, emerging in the only slightly cooler but far more serene Lake Kawaguchi area, to visit Hoshinoya Fuji, billed as “Japan’s first glamping resort.” I was, and remain, irritated by the word “glamping”—a cloying portmanteau of “glamour” and “camping” that is, of course, in the Oxford English Dictionary, along with “manspreading” and “listicle.” Still, I was eager to experience the thing of glamping—which is to say, vacationing in a rustic N O V E M B E R 2017

setting, perhaps even sleeping in a safari tent or teepee, without relinquishing the comforts of soft bedding, ample hot water and restaurant-quality food. Though the concept isn’t exactly new, it lately has exploded into its own trendy travel category. Arriving at Hoshinoya Fuji, I was greeted by 40 minimalist but luxurious cabin rooms, plus a full-service dining room and a scattering of indoor/outdoor public spaces—all stylishly built into a hillside, set in a lush red cedar forest, overlooking Lake Kawaguchi. I’ve done enough old-school camping to know that the best parts are the clean forest smells, the excuse to eat a lot of carbs and the shower you take when it’s all over. The rest, to me, is clammy, buggy, indignant drudgery, from load-in to bartering dry socks for anxiety meds (or at least a melatonin) to breakdown. Everything takes longer than it should, and nothing’s ever the right temperature. Glamping, on the other hand, is the illusion of work and ruggedness. (Think of it as like transferring prepared foods into your best serving dishes and adding a sprinkling of cut chives on top before guests arrive.) Essentially you’re playacting, 38

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

this page: nacasa & partners inc.; opposite: makoto yoshida

WRITER LAURIE WOOLEVER EXPERIENCES THE BEST PARTS OF CAMPING (HIKING, CANOEING AND BEING AT ONE WITH NATURE) WHILE SOMEONE ELSE DOES ALL THE HEAVY LIFTING. IT’S A LITTLE LIKE BACKPACKING, WITHOUT ACTUALLY HAVING TO CARRY A BACKPACK.

The Good Life

with an emphasis on props. Sure, I’m wearing a headlamp, but it lights the wooden staircase back to my climate-controlled room, where a deeply compliant Japanese toilet with a heated seat awaits. I might chop wood or paddle a canoe or hike among the trees, but only under the gently watchful supervision of a “glamping master” who has just delivered a 20-minute safety lecture on the topic. Nowhere are the props of pretend camping at Hoshinoya Fuji more in play than when it comes time to eat. Much of the food—including soft-shell turtle, trout, eel, venison, wild boar, and a range of fruits and vegetables— is hunted, fished, foraged or otherwise sourced locally. Not by the guests, of course. Breakfast, if ordered to your room, arrives in a stylized fishing tackle box that’s fitted inside a wood-framed backpack modeled on those once used by the 19th-century Mount Fuji guides known as goriki. On the first night, I had the Dutch oven dinner, and each of its seven courses required some effort on my part. That meant salting the tiny, deep-fried sweet fish that appeared to still be swimming, for instance, or grating Parmigiano over the Italianstyle stew of venison tripe in an adorable cast-iron mini pan before a glamping master heated it through on a tabletop burner.

Japanese-Style Eel and Rice Bowl Total 20 min; Serves 4

Deceptively simple, this combination of rich eel, delicate rice, sweet sauce and tingly hot pepper is a deeply satisfying comfort dish, whether you’re glamping, camping or cooking at home. 1/3

cup soy sauce

1/3

cup plus 1 Tbsp. mirin

2 Tbsp. sugar Two 6-oz. chargrilled unagi (eel; see Note) 2 cups steamed sushi rice

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Glamping

The next night, after starting with a transcendently simple and profoundly delicious soup of green peppers and miso, served in the main dining room and requiring no work from me (apart from spoon to mouth), I was invited to approach the freestanding grill area and cook my own main course. Chef Yuji Kanai told me exactly when and how to turn my steak so that it was rare and had perfect crosshatch grill marks, before making a dramaticlooking pan sauce by flaming some high-end Japanese whiskey. It was like being in the cleanest, quietest, most exclusive Benihana ever, though that funny little tent housing my choice of salts, pepper, lemon and herbs reminded me that I wasn’t just dining—I was glamping. The resort is set in a forest of red cedar, perfect for hiking or just kicking back.

Sansho pepper or Sichuan peppercorns, for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 425° or prepare your grill or campfire for cooking over moderate heat. In a small saucepan, whisk the soy sauce with 1/3 cup of the mirin and the sugar and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced by about half and lightly coats the back of a spoon. 2. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with foil and set the unagi on it. Sprinkle

with the remaining 1 tablespoon of mirin. If using a grill or campfire, sprinkle the unagi with mirin before wrapping loosely in foil. Cook for about 6 to 8 minutes, until heated through. 3. Divide the steamed rice among 4 bowls. Cut each unagi fillet in half and divide among the bowls, skin side down. Drizzle each bowl with some of the warm sauce and sprinkle with some sansho pepper or Sichuan peppercorns, if desired. Serve. NOTE Unagi can be found in Asian grocery stores. Smoked trout can be substituted.

Do More with Your Meals!

7 cooking functions in one appliance – including AirFry Introducing a healthier way to fry, and so much more! The Cuisinart® AirFryer Toaster Oven is actually a premium full-size toaster oven with a built-in air fryer. That means it not only bakes, broils, and toasts, it also lets you air fry right inside the oven. Air frying, which uses powerful ultra-hot air and 98% less oil than deep-frying, is a healthier way to cook, allowing you to prepare delicious fried favorites, from wings and fritters to fries and shrimp, using little or no fat in the cooking process! Enjoy the crunch without the calories and messy cleanup, with the AirFryer Toaster Oven from Cuisinart!

Sur La Table Kohl’s • Macy’s

CHEF DISPATCH

On Location: Chicago

THE ESSENTIAL LIST Café Marie-Jeanne

“I’m a fan of everything about this allday French café in Humboldt Park. The space, service and food from chefowner Mike Simmons, a Lula Cafe vet, is exceptional. He’s created something special that has staying power. I get the duck frites, calf brains on brioche toast and the namesake Marie-Jeanne cocktail, made with Cocchi Americano, soda and citrus.” cafe-marie-jeanne.com.

A table at Proxi. below: the Fogcutter cocktail at Lost Lake.

Proxi

“Chef Andrew Zimmerman has always impressed me with his seasonally driven spot, Sepia, and this West Loop street-food-inspired restaurant is a clever extension of his style. He turns Mexican elotes (grilled corn) into tempura and fava beans into hummus for grilled octopus. As for what to drink, go with whatever sommelier Arthur Hon puts in front of you.” proxichicago.com.

Lost Lake

“When bartender Paul McGee opened this tiki bar in Logan Square, I had to visit immediately. He nods to tradition while also pushing forward with his cocktails and large-format drinks, such as the gin-and-rum-powered Fogcutter— perfect for a night out with friends.” lostlaketiki.com.

Roister

“I love that I can come to this boisterous Fulton Market hangout for both a perfect 20-course menu and the best fried chicken. Chef Andrew Brochu has been around for a while, cooking at The Aviary, and here he and chef Grant Achatz N O V E M B E R 2017

HUNGRY FOR MORE? Sandoval shares more of his Chicago favorites at foodandwine.com /sandoval-chicago.

continue to excite and satisfy diners. The must-order dishes are the agedcheddar rillettes, Japanese Wagyu steak with sea urchin butter, Yukon fries dusted with soy and bonito flakes, and, of course, the braised, poached and then fried chicken.” roisterrestaurant.com.

Uncle Mike’s Place

“Julia Momose suggested this no-frills Filipino-American diner in West Town for a meeting once, and I fell in love. The food is simple and comforting, like Spam with garlic rice, classic BLTs and lugao (chicken and rice soup), but it’s the staff that keeps me coming back. They’re genuinely kind people who clearly care about what they do.” unclemikesplace.com.

WonFun Chinese and 2Fun Chinese

“I heard about this two-level Sichuan restaurant and lounge in the West Loop by word of mouth. Chef Ben Ruiz takes spice to the max, which you’ll see when you order dishes like douban yu (whole fish brushed with chile-bean paste), dan dan noodles and Sichuan pork wontons.” funfunchinese.com. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from top: david burke; shelby allison

WHILE WE’RE ALWAYS on the hunt for the next hot food spot, there are certain places that constantly draw us back. One of them is Chicago, where the thriving food scene is evolving in compelling Noah Sandoval ways. Readers of our sister publication Travel + Leisure concur, ranking Chicago as one of America’s top food destinations in the 2017 World’s Best Awards. “I haven’t been to many cities where I felt as comfortable trying new things,” says Noah Sandoval, the 2017 F&W Best New Chef behind Oriole, in the West Loop neighborhood. “The vibe is energetic, and chefs are working hard to make sure the scene stays exciting.” Sandoval is doing his part: Next spring, in a space near Oriole, he’s opening a cocktail lounge called Kumiko, where his head bartender, Julia Momose, will oversee drinks and he’ll be on bar-food duty. Meanwhile, if Sandoval should get any downtime during the holidays, these are the places you’re likely to find him. —ELYSE INAMINE

“Excellent choice.” Savor the acclaimed taste of Paso Robles, captured in our Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon, a dining favorite from the limited-production, artisan

wines of J. Lohr Vineyard Series.

vineyard-driven | passionately made j. lohr vineyard series

IN THE KITCHEN

A Cooking Life

FOR HER FIRST COOKBOOK, F&W SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR AND TOP CHEF STAR GAIL SIMMONS DRAWS FROM TWO DECADES OF FOOD ADVENTURES. HERE SHE SHARES SOME FAVORITE, INSANELY DELICIOUS RECIPES FROM HER HOME KITCHEN.

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. apron by fog linen

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KERNICK

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

N OV E M B E R 2017

In the Kitchen

Gail Simmons

Gail’s Inspiration When I was 19, I traveled through New Zealand with my best friend, Camille. We soon became obsessed with a dish that appeared at practically every roadside diner: spaghetti sandwiches! Part oozy grilled cheese, part tangy, tomato-sauced noodles, this mash-up was the kernel of what’s become one of my greatest culinary triumphs, spaghetti pie. I’ve prepared multiple variations, and it always makes my guests extremely happy. This version, perfect for fall gatherings, incorporates plenty of wild mushrooms, spinach and herbs—plus a spoonful of chopped oil-packed black truffles, if I’m feeling decadent.

Spaghetti Pie with Wild Mushrooms and Spinach Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 35 min Serves 8 to 10 Unsalted butter, softened, for brushing

Balance creamy spaghetti pie with a crisp green salad.

1 lb. spaghetti 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, minced

’VE BEEN LUCKY

enough to spend the last 20 years working in food media, following the brightest restaurant talents, traveling in search of great food and eating alongside some of the world’s best chefs. In my role as special projects director at Food & Wine and as a judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, I’ve eaten my way through more tasting menus, late-night small plates and street-food stalls than I’d like to admit. But, of course, that’s the side of my life everyone who knows anything about me already knows. What most people probably don’t realize is, long before I sat at the Top Chef Judges’ Table, I was a cook. In fact, cooking is in my blood. When I was growing up in Toronto, my mom was a cooking instructor and food writer. She made our kitchen a teaching space and filled our fridge with exotic-seeming ingredients. The happy times I spent with her there helped make the kitchen a place where I’ve always found comfort and exhilaration. It was my love of the kitchen that drew me to New York City after college, first as a culinary student, then as a line cook. It’s also what motivated me, once I left restaurant life, to seek out jobs that kept me connected to cooking. I did research and recipe testing for a food writer, managed events and PR for a chef, and then landed at Food & Wine, while also taking a seat at the Judges’ Table when Top Chef began in 2006. I’d like to think of my role as that of chef translator, helping to make dishes, techniques and flavors accessible to home cooks. Among the most meaningful moments in my career so far have been opportunities to learn from chefs and food experts I’ve befriended. Lessons these mentors have shared can be found throughout my new cookbook—my first—Bringing It Home: Favorite Recipes from a Life of Adventurous Eating, a collection of dishes I love making for family and friends. Many are ideal for entertaining, something that’s very important this time of year. My hope is the book will encourage people to embark on their own cooking and eating adventures. Here’s a taste, with recipes I’ve created specially for Food & Wine. N O V E M B E R 2017

2 garlic cloves, minced 1 lb. mixed wild mushrooms, such as cremini, porcini and stemmed shiitakes, cut into 1-inch pieces Kosher salt and pepper 5 oz. baby spinach 3 large eggs 1½ cups whole milk 3 cups shredded Fontina cheese (10 oz.) 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 Tbsp. finely chopped sage 1 Tbsp. thyme leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Tightly wrap the outside of a 9-inch springform pan with foil and brush the inside with butter. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until barely al dente; drain.

2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Scrape into a bowl. 3. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Scrape into the mushrooms and let cool slightly. 4. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the milk. Add the spaghetti, mushroom mixture, 3 cheeses, sage, thyme, 1½ teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper; mix well. Scrape into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Set the pan on a baking sheet and bake for about 35 minutes, until bubbling and the top is golden. Let stand for 15 minutes. Remove the ring, cut the pie into wedges and serve. MAKE AHEAD The pie can be baked up to 2 hours ahead and eaten warm or at room temperature. WINE Juicy Russian River Valley

Pinot Noir: 2015 Hartford Court.

What most people probably don’t realize is, long before I sat at the Top Chef Judges’ Table, I was a cook. In fact, cooking is in my blood.Ó 44

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

OUR AGING ROOMS At BelGioioso, cheesemaking is an art. Our American GranaÂŽ, an 18-month Extra Aged Parmesan, takes patience to produce. We deliberately choose not to cut corners and aging rooms are our commitment to traditional cheesemaking methods. By aging on natural wooden shelves, our Master Cheesemakers follow the proper steps to ensure what is best for this cheese. Available in the specialty cheese section in wedges and shredded cups.

Aging Room, BelGioioso Pulaski Plant, WI December 2016

belgioioso.com

In the Kitchen

Gail Simmons

A spiced cucumber yogurt sauce elevates this hearty breakfast dish.

Gail’s Inspiration In my teens, I spent a summer on a kibbutz in Israel, working in my first professional kitchen. I was assigned to breakfast duty and fell in love with scrambling, poaching and frying eggs by the dozens. Today, one of my go-to brunches is baked eggs in a cherry tomato–pepper mix seasoned with the Mediterranean spice blend za’atar. It never fails to conjure happy memories of that magical time.

Za’atar Baked Eggs Total 30 min; Serves 4 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced Kosher salt and pepper 2 pints cherry tomatoes 2 red bell peppers, chopped ¼ cup plus 2 tsp. finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish 2 tsp. za’atar, plus more for garnish 4 large eggs 1 cup plain yogurt ½ cup finely chopped seeded English cucumber 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more for drizzling ½ tsp. sumac 2 tsp. finely chopped mint

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and

cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until some of them burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are softened and all of the tomatoes have burst, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in ¼ cup of the parsley and 1½ teaspoons of the za’atar. Season the tomato sauce with salt and pepper. 2. Using a spoon, make 4 wells in the tomato sauce, then crack an egg into each one; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the egg whites are just set and the yolks are still runny. 3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the cucumber, the 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, the sumac, mint and the remaining 2 teaspoons of parsley and ½ teaspoon of za’atar. Season with salt and garnish with za’atar. Drizzle the eggs with olive oil and garnish with parsley. Drizzle the tomato sauce with lemon juice. Serve with the cucumber yogurt. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

In the Kitchen

Gail Simmons

Gail’s Inspiration When I was a kid, butterscotch pudding was my number one dessert choice. Recently, I’ve seen it prepared with fancy embellishments, but I like to keep mine homey, focusing on the buttery flavor and lingering finish of real Scotch. When I want to impress, I’ll thicken the pudding more than usual and pour it into a pie shell flecked with golden pecans. The contrasting textures of rich pudding and nutty, flaky crust make this a grown-up ode to the comforting childhood classic.

Butterscotch Pudding Pie Active 1 hr 15 min Total 5 hr 50 min Makes one 9-inch pie PIECRUST

½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. chopped pecans 1¼ cups all-purpose flour

These Indian-accented grilled cheese sandwiches get their heat from jalapeño and ginger.

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled ¼ cup ice water FILLING

Gail’s Inspiration Top Chef host Padma Lakshmi introduced me to Indian melted sharp cheese and spicy chiles on toast. My grilled cheese version gets a flavor boost from mango chutney spiced with fresh ginger.

Chile Grilled Cheese Sandwiches Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 ½ tsp. coriander seeds ½ tsp. mustard seeds 1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 small onion, minced Kosher salt and black pepper ¼ cup white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. minced peeled fresh ginger 2 ripe mangoes, chopped ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper 1½ cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese 1½ cups shredded sharp white cheddar cheese 1 jalapeño, minced 2 Tbsp. minced cilantro Eight ½-inch-thick slices of sourdough boule 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1. In a medium saucepan, toast the seeds over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Coarsely crush. N O V E M B E R 2017

1¾ cups whole milk 1½ cups heavy cream 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed

2. In the same saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion, season with salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, sugar and 1 tablespoon of the ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vinegar is slightly reduced, 2 minutes. Add the mangoes, crushed seeds and crushed red pepper and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the mixture resembles jam, 5 minutes. Scrape the chutney into a small bowl and let cool. Season with salt.

1 cup packed dark brown sugar 2 large eggs 3 Tbsp. cornstarch 3/4

tsp. kosher salt

2 Tbsp. Scotch whisky 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Turbinado sugar, for garnish

1. Make the piecrust Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and toast for about 8 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Let cool.

3. Heat a griddle over moderately low heat. In a large bowl, toss both cheeses with the jalapeño, cilantro and remaining 2 teaspoons of ginger. Season with salt and black pepper.

2. In a food processor, pulse 1/2 cup of the pecans until finely ground. Add the flour and salt and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until pea-size pieces form. Add the ice water and pulse until a dough starts to come together. Transfer the dough into a 9-inch round fluted tart pan with a removable bottom and press it evenly over the bottom and up the side. Prick the piecrust all over with a fork, then freeze it for 30 minutes.

4. Brush 1 side of each bread slice with butter. Arrange 4 slices buttered side down on the griddle. Top each with onefourth of the cheese mixture and 3 tablespoons of the chutney. Close the sandwiches and cook until golden, 3 minutes per side. Let rest for 2 minutes, then cut in half and serve.

3. Preheat the oven to 375°. Put the piecrust on a large baking sheet and bake for about 35 minutes, until the edge is lightly browned and the crust is firm. Let cool completely. 4. Meanwhile, make the filling In a small saucepan, bring the milk and ½ cup of the cream to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over moderately high heat. Add the brown sugar and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is bubbling and smooth, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the milk mixture. 5. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the cornstarch and salt. Very gradually whisk in 1/2 cup of the milk mixture. Scrape the mixture into the medium saucepan and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until very thick, about 7 minutes. Strain the pudding into a medium bowl and stir in the Scotch and vanilla. Let cool slightly, then press a piece of plastic directly on the surface and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight. 6. Scrape the butterscotch filling into the piecrust and smooth the top. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the remaining 1 cup of cream until stiff peaks form. Mound the whipped cream on the pie and garnish with turbinado sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon of pecans. Cut the pie into wedges and serve. NOTE Use the bottom of a metal measuring cup to help press the dough into an even layer in the tart pan. MAKE AHEAD The pie can be refrigerated overnight.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

In the Kitchen

Gail Simmons

1. Make the dough In a food processor, combine both flours with the salt and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until pea-size pieces form. Add the sour cream, ice water and lemon juice and pulse until the dough starts to come together. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and pat into a disk. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. 2. Make the filling Preheat the oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the shallot, season with salt and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Let cool. 3. In a small bowl, mix the ricotta with the lemon zest, garlic, the 1 teaspoon of thyme and the minced oregano and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss the squash with the celery root, potato and remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

A lemon-honey drizzle adds a touch of sweetness to this savory, free-form Winter Galette.

Gail’s Inspiration My former boss chef Daniel Boulud created seven amazing vegetable dishes for my wedding feast. That unforgettable array was the stimulus for this seasonal rustic tart. In colder months, I top it with paper-thin slices of whatever’s on hand, from winter squash to celery root. The dough is easy to prepare and shape into a free-form crust, while fresh ricotta, infused with herbs and lemon zest, forms a creamy base.

Winter Galette Active 1 hr Total 2 hr 30 min plus cooling Serves 6 to 8 DOUGH

¾ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ¾ cup whole-wheat flour ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 stick unsalted butter, cubed and chilled ¼ cup sour cream 2 Tbsp. ice water 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

FILLING

½ tsp. minced rosemary, plus leaves for sprinkling

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

½ lb. acorn squash—seeded, peeled and shaved into ribbons

1 large shallot, thinly sliced Kosher salt and pepper

½ lb. celery root, peeled and shaved into ribbons

1 cup whole-milk ricotta 1½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 small baking potato, peeled and shaved into ribbons

1 large garlic clove, finely grated

1 large egg beaten with 1 Tbsp. water

1 tsp. thyme leaves, plus more for sprinkling

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 tsp. minced oregano, plus leaves for sprinkling

2 tsp. honey, warmed

4. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 13-inch round. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Spread the ricotta on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Pile the squash mixture on the ricotta and fold 1 1/2 inches of the dough edge over the vegetables. Sprinkle with thyme, oregano and rosemary leaves. Brush the dough edge with the beaten egg. 5. Bake the galette for 15 minutes, until starting to brown. Sprinkle the Parmigiano over the filling and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the crust is golden. 6. In a small bowl, mix the honey with the lemon juice. Drizzle the lemon honey over the galette. Serve warm or at room temperature. MAKE AHEAD The galette can be baked up to 3 hours ahead and rewarmed before serving. WINE Full-bodied California

Chardonnay: 2015 Cambria Fog Tide.

N OV E M B E R 2017

In the Kitchen

Gail Simmons

Gail’s Inspiration I met chef Andrew Carmellini when we both worked for Daniel Boulud. Now with his own restaurant empire, Carmellini stirred a national frenzy with his meatballs, and my own owe a debt to his—as well as to my honeymoon trip to Vietnam. The mix of lemongrass, fish sauce and tons of herbs creates a craveable, salty brightness.

Vietnamese Lemongrass Meatballs Active 30 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 4 shallots, 2 thinly sliced and 2 minced ¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar Kosher salt 1 lb. ground pork 1 large egg 3 Tbsp. minced lemongrass 1 Tbsp. minced cilantro, plus leaves for garnish 1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce 2 tsp. cornstarch

These beguiling brownies get their complex flavor from black licorice chews, licorice root and anise.

1 garlic clove, minced 1 Tbsp. canola oil

Chewy Black Licorice Chocolate Brownies

3 large eggs

Active 30 min Total 1 hr 10 min plus cooling Makes 12

2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1½ sticks unsalted butter, melted, plus more for brushing 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 Tbsp. licorice root powder 2 tsp. ground anise seeds ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed brown sugar

N O V E M B E R 2017

then whisk in the eggs and vanilla. Stir in the dry ingredients, then three-fourths of the chocolate and licorice chews. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Gently press the remaining chocolate and licorice chews into the batter.

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

½ cup chopped soft black licorice chews (3 oz.)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Line a 9-inch-square baking pan with paper or foil, leaving 2 inches of overhang on 2 sides. Brush the paper with butter.

3. Bake the brownies for about 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, with a few moist crumbs attached. Let the brownies cool completely, then lift them out of the pan using the paper. Cut the brownies into 12 rectangles and serve.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the cocoa powder, licorice root powder, anise and salt. In a large bowl, whisk the melted butter with both sugars,

1. In a small bowl, mix the sliced shallots with the vinegar and a generous pinch of salt. 2. In a bowl, mix the pork with the egg, lemongrass, minced shallots and cilantro, fish sauce, cornstarch, garlic and 1½ teaspoons of salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Form into 1½-inch balls. 3. In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the meatballs and cook over moderate heat until browned and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter and serve in Bibb lettuce leaves with the pickled shallots and garnishes. WINE Off-dry Riesling: 2016

Long Shadows Poet’s Leap.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

knife from koromiko

Gail’s Inspiration My South African–born father, Ivor, passed down his love for salty, chewy dubbel zout (double salt), the Dutch black licorice coins. Dad’s other sweet vice is bittersweet chocolate, and this deeply dark-chocolaty brownie with a sophisticated touch of salt, plus notes of molasses and anise from black licorice, is an homage to him.

Bibb lettuce leaves, mint and basil leaves, lime wedges, chile-garlic paste and julienned cucumber and carrot, for garnish

Double the Storage, Double the Efficiency Timeless Design. Super Quiet. German Engineered.

home.liebherr.com

SEASONAL COOKING HALF SAVORY One side of Sam Jacobson’s flaky pastry is filled with spiced sausage...

As Sweet (and Savo r y ) as Pie

THERE’S A NEW CROP OF AMERICAN PIE MAKERS COMBINING THE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF A FRENCH PATISSERIE WITH THE COMFORTS OF A CORNER BAKESHOP. THREE OF THESE NEXT-WAVE TALENTS SHARE BUTTERY, FLAKY CREATIONS YOU SHOULD MAKE THIS SEASON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KERNICK

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

HALF SWEET ...while the sugarcoated side contains cardamom-scented apple (recipe p. 54).

THE OFFICIAL WINE OF

SEASON 17

casillerodeldiablo.com

Tune in to Hell’s Kitchen on ©2017 Excelsior Wine Company, Old Brookville, NY. Hell’s Kitchen®, HK® and the HK pitchfork logo are registered trademarks of ITV Studios Ltd. Used under license. FOX ™ Fox and its related entities. All Rights Reserved.

Seasonal Cooking

The Half & Half

The Sweet

Want some coffee with that slice? At Angela Pinkerton’s counter-style pie and sandwich shop Theorita in San Francisco, the caffeine’s built in. Espresso flavors the cookie crust and the whipped pastry cream atop an orange-infused sweet potato filling.

Sam Jacobson of the Stargazy bakeshop in Philadelphia delivers both sausage roll and fruit pie in these traditional, English-inspired spiced half-and-half pastries. Fun fact: Bedfordshire people are nicknamed “Clangers” after their sweet-and-savory specialty.

Pork-and-Apple Bedfordshire Clangers page 52 Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 45 min Serves 8 to 10 PASTRY

2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tsp. kosher salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, cubed and chilled Ice water

2. Make the fillings In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the pork with the breadcrumbs, sage, garlic, 1 teaspoon of salt, ¼ teaspoon of pepper, ¼ teaspoon of granulated sugar, ¼ teaspoon of ginger, 1/8 teaspoon of allspice and a pinch of nutmeg. Freeze until cold but not frozen, about 30 minutes.

Sweet Potato and Coffee Cream Pie Active 1 hr 25 min; Total 9 hr Serves 8 to 10 COOKIE SHELL

¾ cup all-purpose flour 2½ tsp. espresso powder ¼ tsp. baking soda Kosher salt

3. Using the paddle attachment, beat the pork mixture at low speed until just combined. Slowly beat in the stock.

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus 6 Tbsp. melted and cooled

FILLINGS

½ lb. ground pork shoulder ¼ cup finely ground fresh breadcrumbs 1 Tbsp. finely chopped sage 1 small garlic clove, minced Kosher salt and pepper ¼ tsp. granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling ½ tsp. ground ginger ¼ tsp. plus 1/8 tsp. ground allspice Freshly ground nutmeg ¼ cup chicken stock 2 Honeycrisp apples (1 lb. total)—peeled, cored and cut into 3/4 -inch pieces 2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ tsp. ground cardamom ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 large egg, lightly beaten

1. Make the pastry In a food processor, pulse the 2½ cups of flour with the salt. Add the butter and pulse until pea-size. Add ¼ cup of ice water and pulse until the dough just comes together. If needed, add up to 1/4 cup of ice water. Turn out onto a work surface and knead 2 or 3 times. Quarter and press into rectangular disks. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. N O V E M B E R 2017

Pies

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

4. In a medium bowl, toss the apples with the brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, cardamom, cinnamon and the remaining ¼ teaspoon of ginger and ¼ teaspoon of allspice.

¼ cup light brown sugar 1 large egg 1 cup shelled pecans 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest

5. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 disk of dough to a 5-by-10-inch rectangle. With a long side nearest you, spoon one-fourth of the apples along the bottom right half of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on the bottom and side. Spoon one-fourth of the pork filling along the bottom left half of the dough to make 1 solid bar of filling, leaving a 1-inch border on the bottom and side. Fold the top half of the dough over the filling and press the edges to seal. Brush the top with the beaten egg. Sprinkle the apple half with granulated sugar and cut a few slits in the top of this side only. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, spacing the pies 1 inch apart. Refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.

FILLINGS

3 large sweet potatoes 1/3

cup honey

1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2½ cups whole milk ¾ cup roasted coffee beans 6 tsp. powdered gelatin (from 2 packets) 2/3

cup granulated sugar

1 large egg plus 2 large egg yolks 2½ tsp. espresso powder ¼ cup cornstarch 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 1 cup heavy cream Julienned candied citrus peel (see Note), for garnish

1. Make the cookie shell Preheat the oven to 325°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the espresso powder, baking soda and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the

6. Preheat the oven to 400°. Bake the pies for 50 minutes to 1 hour, rotating the baking sheet halfway through, until the apple filling is bubbling and the crust is deeply golden. Transfer the pies to a rack to cool.

softened butter with ¼ cup of the granulated sugar and the brown sugar at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the egg. At low speed, beat in the dry ingredients until combined. 2. Scrape the soft dough into the center of the prepared baking sheet. Top with another sheet of parchment paper and roll into a thin sheet. Refrigerate until firm, about 15 minutes. Remove the top paper and bake for about 15 minutes, until golden. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely. 3. Increase the oven temperature to 350°. Break the cookie into pieces and transfer to a food processor. Add the pecans, the remaining 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar, the orange zest and ¼ teaspoon of salt and pulse until fine crumbs form. Add the melted butter and pulse to incorporate. Press the crumbs evenly over the bottom and up the side of a 9-inch metal pie plate. Bake for about 20 minutes, until fragrant and browned. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely. 4. Make the fillings Increase the oven temperature to 400°. Prick the sweet potatoes with a fork, wrap each in foil and transfer to a baking sheet. Roast for about 1 hour, until tender. Let cool slightly. 5. Split the sweet potatoes lengthwise and scrape the flesh into a medium saucepan. Add the honey and cook over moderate heat, stirring often, until thickened to a paste, about 20 minutes. In a food processor, blend the sweet potatoes with the orange juice until smooth. Spread in the cookie shell and refrigerate until cold, 1 hour. continued on p. 56

BEER Malty pale ale: Cisco

Brewers Whale’s Tale.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Seasonal Cooking

Pies

The Savory

Ricotta makes this take on vegetable quiche from Roxana Jullapat of Friends & Family in L.A. extra moist and light. Hang on to her winner of a piecrust, made with butter and cream cheese—it’s flaky, golden and crisp.

Ricotta and Scallion Egg Pie Active 40 min; Total 4 hr 45 min Serves 8 to 10 PIECRUST

1¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1½ sticks unsalted butter, cubed and chilled 6 oz. cream cheese, cubed and chilled 2 Tbsp. ice water FILLING

10 scallions, trimmed 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp. thyme leaves Kosher salt and pepper 6 large eggs 1¼ cups heavy cream

A heavy cast-iron skillet gives Roxana Jullapat’s deep-dish Ricotta and Scallion Egg Pie a great crust.

1 cup whole milk 1 cup loosely packed baby spinach leaves 1 cup grated Gruyère 1 cup ricotta

sweet potato pie

continued

6. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups of the milk to a bare simmer over moderate heat. Remove from the heat and add the coffee beans. Let stand for 30 minutes. Strain; discard the coffee beans. In the same pan, bring the coffee milk to a bare simmer over moderate heat. 7. In a small bowl, whisk the gelatin with the remaining ½ cup of milk. In a large heatproof bowl, whisk the granulated sugar with the whole egg, egg yolks, espresso powder and cornstarch. Gradually whisk in half of the hot coffee milk. Scrape the mixture into the same saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring constantly. Cook, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream is thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove the

N O V E M B E R 2017

1. Make the piecrust In a large bowl, whisk the 1 3/4 cups of flour with the salt. Using a pastry blender or your fingers, cut the butter and cream cheese into the flour until pea-size. Add the ice water and gently knead just until the dough comes together. Press into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.

saucepan from the heat and whisk in the gelatin and softened butter. 8. Scrape the pastry cream into the bowl of a stand mixer. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours. 9. In the stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the pastry cream at medium-high speed until smooth. Switch to the whisk and whip in the heavy cream until fluffy and stiff peaks form, about 1 minute. Mound the pastry cream over the sweet potatoes and smooth the top. Refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours or overnight. Garnish the pie with candied citrus peel and serve cold.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a 14-inch round. Ease into a 10-inch castiron skillet and trim the overhang to ½ inch. Fold the edge of

the dough in over itself and, if desired, crimp it. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°. Line the piecrust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Blind bake for about 1 hour, until the crust is set and lightly browned. Remove the weights and parchment paper, transfer the skillet to a wire rack and let cool completely. Leave the oven on. 4. Make the filling On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the scallions with the olive oil and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for 10 minutes, until tender. Let cool. Reserve 3 whole scallions. Coarsely chop the remaining scallions. 5. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the cream, milk and 2 teaspoons of salt. Stir in the chopped scallions, the spinach, Gruyère and ricotta. Pour the custard into the piecrust and arrange the reserved whole scallions on top. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the filling is puffed and lightly browned. Transfer to a rack and let cool for at least 20 minutes. Serve the pie warm or at room temperature. VARIATION In summer, sub in young stinging nettles (before they flower) for the spinach. Remember to wear gloves when handling raw nettles. WINE Crisp California sparkling

wine: NV Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rosé.

Tip: Want an instant piecrust better than anything you can buy? Make your own, roll and wrap it, then freeze for up to a month. No need to thaw before blind baking.

NOTE Excellent small-batch candied citrus peel is available from junetaylorjams.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

US: CLEAN EATING US: REAL SIMPLE

MAKE

When something is made with love, it shows— whether it’s the food on your holiday table or the hand-built machine that helped you prepare it. Vitamix® Ascent™ Series blenders are built to make quick, easy recipes for years to come, guaranteed. So you can savor every special moment with the ones who mean the most to you. Visit vitamix.com/make-merry and celebrate the season with special offers, recipes and more.

THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS TO MAKING GREAT ICED TEA. Real tea leaves, carefully dried to coax out all the subtle tea flavors — it’s the only way I know to make a delicious, smooth iced tea.

Alex White,

Pure Leaf Tea Master

Pure Leaf.

Our Thing is Tea.

Find out more at pureleaf.com

2017 PURE LEAF is a trademark of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.

HOLIDAY COOKING

Instagram-Worthy Plate by Stephanie Charlene Ceramics.

Roasted Vegetables with Smashed-Walnut Vinaigrette, p. 72

Roasted CranberryGrape Sauce, p. 68

Sourdough Stuffing with Sausage, Red Onion and Kale, p. 72

Clementine-and-Garlic Roast Turkey, p. 68

Thanksgiving 112,317 likes foodandwine Thanksgiving is all about sharing food, friendship and photos, with 11.2 million Instagram users having posted with the hashtag #Thanksgiving. Whether you Instagram or not, use these recipes and serving tips to ensure your holiday table earns you as many likes at home as it does online. #howiholiday PRODUCED BY KATE HEDDINGS RECIPES BY JUSTIN CHAPPLE AND LAURA REGE PHOTOGRAPHS BY CON POULOS FOOD STYLING BY SIMON ANDREWS STYLE EDITOR SUZIE MYERS F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

N OV E M B E R 2017

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Getting the Best Shot Use these pro tricks to make your food photos even more shareable. 1. Make the Perfect Plate Fan out your turkey slices and surround them with colorful vegetables and sides. 2. Create a Scene Don’t be afraid of a little messiness: A crumpled napkin, a wine cork and a few crumbs add life to a shot.

Shoot in a skillet for a different perspective.

3. Use Natural Light Photographer Con Poulos says don’t be afraid to move food around a space to get the best light, such as near a window. 4. Add Some Action Try to catch a moment, like pulling the turkey out of the oven, tossing salad or carving the bird at the table.

Spoon by Four Leaf Wood Shop.

5. Show Your Hands Put that bright-red manicure to good use! 6. Play the Angles Consider whether a dish is prettier shot directly overhead or from the side.

Mixed Nuts with Crispy Herbs and Garlic

7. Use the Right Props A colorful napkin or shiny knife can add a lot to a photo.

Total: 30 min; Makes about 4 cups For the most addictive holiday snack, Justin Chapple toasts garlic, sage and rosemary in oil, then he uses that fragrant oil to toast a mix of pecans, cashews, pistachios and almonds.

8. Get the Tight Shot Food stylist Simon Andrews advises going graphic, simple and up close—for that ooey, gooey yum factor. 9. Pick Good Surfaces What’s under the plate matters. While marble, wood and fabric are great, your concrete patio could be even better! 10. Keep It Raw Cooked food isn’t always pretty. Consider a prep shot. 11. Show Multiples One slice of cake can be pretty, but a shot of several makes more of a statement. 12. Finesse with Filters Andrews’s favorite Instagram filter is Hudson, which cools the image and lightens the center.

N O V E M B E R 2017

1 cup raw pecans

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the pecans and cashews on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and the cashews are golden. Let cool.

1 cup raw cashews Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying 6 large garlic cloves, very thinly sliced

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat ¼ inch of olive oil until shimmering. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the crispy garlic to paper towels to drain. Carefully add the rosemary and sage to the skillet and cook until the sizzling slows and the herbs are crisp, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.

6 large rosemary sprigs (6 inches each), stemmed ½ cup lightly packed sage leaves 1 cup unsalted shelled pistachios 1 cup roasted unsalted marcona almonds Kosher salt and pepper

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the garlic-herb oil from the skillet. Add the toasted nuts along with the pistachios and almonds and cook over moderate heat, tossing and stirring frequently, until the nuts are warm and coated in the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper, then fold in the crispy garlic and herbs. Transfer to a medium bowl and serve warm or at room temperature. MAKE AHEAD The mixed nuts can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Arrange your ingredients so you see just the right amount of each one.

Serving your dressing on the side means it won’t muddy the picture.

Large bowl by Christiane Perrochon from TableArt.

Acorn Squash and Escarole Salad Active: 30 min; Total: 1 hr 15 min; Serves 10 This lovely knife-and-fork salad gets fantastic texture from crunchy hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds, and the creamy buttermilk drizzle does the perfect job of tying all the components together. 1 cup raw hazelnuts 1½ lbs. acorn squash— quartered lengthwise, seeded and cut crosswise into ¼-inch wedges (9 oz.)

1 lb. escarole, white and light green parts only, leaves torn

hazelnuts cool, then coarsely chop. Leave the oven on. 2. On the large rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash with the olive oil and coriander and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, turning once, until tender and browned in spots. Let cool.

1 lb. arugula (not baby), stemmed and leaves torn 1 cup pomegranate seeds

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, crushed Kosher salt and pepper ¾ cup buttermilk ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 garlic clove, finely grated

N O V E M B E R 2017

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Spread the hazelnuts on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Transfer the hazelnuts to a kitchen towel and rub together in the towel to release the skins. Let the

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk with the mayonnaise, garlic and 2 teaspoons of pepper. Season generously with salt.

4. On a large platter, toss half of the escarole with half of the arugula. Scatter half each of the squash, hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds on top. Repeat the layering one more time. Serve, passing the buttermilk drizzle at the table. MAKE AHEAD The buttermilk

drizzle can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. The layered salad can be covered with damp paper towels and refrigerated for up to 3 hours.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Making tequila sophisticated enough for a sommelier. #AShotWorthTaking

SHOT WORTH T KING 100% PURO AGAVE TEQUILA

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Herb-Scented Mashed Potatoes

Add character to the shot by showing hands.

Active: 30 min; Total: 1 hr Serves 10 The secret to these buttery and fragrant mashed potatoes is a ricer, which creates the perfect fluffy texture. 1Âź cups heavy cream 1Âź cups whole milk 2 sticks unsalted butter, plus melted butter for brushing Two 4-inch rosemary sprigs 2 sage sprigs 2 garlic cloves, crushed 5 lbs. baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces Kosher salt and pepper

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk and the 2 sticks of butter with the rosemary, sage and garlic and bring just to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for 15 minutes, then discard the rosemary, sage and garlic. 2. Meanwhile, in a large pot, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well, then pass the potatoes through a ricer into the pot. Fold in the cream mixture and season generously with salt and pepper. 3. Light the broiler and position the rack 8 inches from the heat. Scrape the potatoes into a 12-inch round flameproof pan or baking dish (2 inches deep) and, using a spoon, decoratively swirl the top. Gently brush with melted butter. Broil for about 8 minutes, until the top is browned in spots. Serve hot.

Put mashed potatoes in a baking dish, swirl the top and broil.

MAKE AHEAD The mashed potatoes can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently before scraping into the baking dish and broiling.

Braiser by Staub.

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Roasted CranberryGrape Sauce, p. 68

Present the turkey with fresh herbs and roasted garlic, or other edible garnishes.

Clementine-andGarlic Roast Turkey, p. 68

Mix vintage tableware with contemporary pieces for a stylishly eclectic look.

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

SEKTION / VOXTORP kitchen

3399*

*Based on a 10'×10' kitchen

©Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2016

A dream kitchen should be a luxury that everyone can afford – a complete kitchen with a beautiful island, all the storage you’ll need, and unique solutions that fit your budget. Because no matter what you do, who you are, or how much you make, you deserve to make the dream yours. SEKTION kitchen with VOXTORP light beige high-gloss drawer fronts, VOXTORP walnut effect doors, drawer fronts and MAXIMERA soft-closing drawers. SEKTION cabinet frames in white melamine foil. VOXTORP doors/drawers fronts in high-gloss foil finish and foil finish. MAXIMERA drawer in powder-coated steel and melamine foil. Shown with PERSONLIG quartz frosty carrina countertop with eased edges. IKEA-USA.com/kitchen Requires assembly. *The total price includes cabinets, fronts, drawers, door dampers, interior shelving, hinges, toe kicks, legs, and cover panels. Your choice of countertops, sinks, faucets, knobs and handles, appliances, and lighting sold separately. See IKEA store for limited warranty, country of origin and 10'×10' details. Valid in US stores only.

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

COVER RECIPE

Clementine-andGarlic Roast Turkey page 66

Active: 1 hr; Total: 4 hr 30 min Serves 10 A terrific turkey doesn’t take much work. This juicy version gets its awesome flavor from just three ingredients: clementines, garlic and thyme. 1½ sticks unsalted butter, softened 6 clementines, zested (1½ Tbsp.) and halved crosswise 4 large garlic cloves, finely grated, plus 6 whole garlic heads, halved crosswise 2 tsp. finely chopped thyme, plus 10 sprigs One 12- to 14-lb. turkey, rinsed and patted dry Kosher salt and pepper 2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

1. In a medium bowl, blend the butter with the clementine zest, grated garlic and chopped thyme. Run your fingers under the turkey breast and thigh skin to loosen it, then spread the butter mixture under and over the skin of the breast and thighs. Season the turkey inside and out with salt and pepper. Transfer to a rack set in a roasting pan and let come to room temperature, about 1 hour. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°. Roast the turkey for about 30 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the chicken stock to the roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes. Scatter the clementine halves, garlic heads and thyme sprigs in the pan. Roast for about 1 hour longer, rotating the pan a few times, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inner thigh registers 165°. Transfer the turkey to a cutting board; let rest for 30 minutes. Transfer the clementines, garlic heads and thyme to a plate, tent with foil and keep warm. N O V E M B E R 2017

Capture stunning colors while you’re cooking.

Roasted Cranberry-Grape Sauce

3. Meanwhile, skim the fat off the pan juices and transfer the juices to a medium saucepan. Squeeze the roasted garlic from 1 head and whisk into the pan juices. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat and cook, whisking frequently, until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Season the roasted garlic jus with salt and pepper. Carve the turkey and transfer to a platter. Arrange the roasted clementines, garlic heads and thyme around the carved turkey and serve with the jus.

Active: 5 min; Total: 1 hr; Serves 10 Laura Rege gives cranberry sauce a twist, roasting the cranberries along with red grapes for a deeply flavored sauce that’s nicely sweet and tart. 1 lb. seedless red grapes, stemmed Two 10-oz. bags fresh or thawed frozen cranberries (5 cups) 2/3

cup sugar

6 thyme sprigs 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

MAKE AHEAD The seasoned uncooked turkey can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before roasting.

Preheat the oven to 425°. On a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, toss the grapes with the cranberries, sugar, thyme, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Roast, stirring halfway through, until the cranberries and grapes just start to burst, 20 minutes. Let cool before serving. MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Pinch of kosher salt

WINE Citrusy, full-bodied white:

2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

DRYNESS HURTS Get relief with GENTEAL Tears. ®

When your eyes feel dry you want relief, fast. Luckily, GENTEAL® Tears works quickly to turn dry irritated eyes into comfy eyes with just a few drops.

5/17

US-GTL-17-E-1241

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Pull-Apart Rolls Active: 30 min Total: 3 hr 30 min; Makes 14 These insanely tasty, pillowlike rolls get their great golden color from the addition of butter and eggs. 1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus softened butter for brushing 1 package active dry yeast ¼ cup lukewarm water (100° to 110°) ¼ cup sugar 1 cup whole milk, warmed 2 large eggs, at room temperature 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2½ tsp. kosher salt

1. Brush a large bowl with butter. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the yeast with the water and a pinch of the sugar and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add the milk, melted butter, eggs and the remaining sugar and mix until combined. Switch to the dough hook and add the flour and salt. Knead at low speed until a smooth ball forms, about 2 minutes. Scrape the dough into the prepared bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and form into a ball. Cut in half, then slice each half into 7 wedges and arrange them top side up in the prepared baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes.

Cut rolls in unexpected shapes for a creative twist on a classic presentation.

N O V E M B E R 2017

70 70

3. Bake the rolls for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden. Serve warm or at room temperature. MAKE AHEAD The baked rolls

can be covered in plastic wrap and stored overnight at room temperature. Reheat the rolls before serving. FFOOLLLLOOWWUUSS@@FFOOOODA DANNDDWWI N I NEE

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Sourdough Stuffing with Sausage, Red Onion and Kale

Roasted Vegetables with Smashed-Walnut Vinaigrette

Active: 1 hr; Total: 2 hr 20 min Serves 10

Active: 20 min Total: 1 hr 15 min; Serves 10

½ stick unsalted butter, cubed, plus more for greasing

1 lb. medium brussels sprouts, halved

1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed and meat crumbled 2 medium red onions, cut into 1-inch wedges through the core ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and black pepper 1 lb. curly kale, leaves torn 4 large eggs

Large-cut, colorful ingredients add visual texture to this stuffing.

2½ cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth 1¼ lbs. sourdough bread, torn into 2-inch pieces ½ cup chopped parsley 1 Tbsp. thyme leaves 1 tsp. crushed red pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the sausage, onions and oil and season with salt and black pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until browned and softened. Scatter the kale on top of the sausage and onions and roast for about 5 minutes, until just wilted. Transfer onefourth of the mixture to a plate and reserve. Let cool slightly.

Arrange vegetables loosely on plates for appealing compositions.

2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the chicken stock. Add the bread, the 1/2 stick of butter, the parsley, thyme, crushed red pepper, 1½ teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of black pepper; mix well. Fold in the threefourths of sausage-kale mixture, then scrape into the prepared baking dish. Decoratively scatter the reserved sausage-kale mixture on top, gently pressing it into the stuffing. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil. 3. Bake the stuffing for 30 minutes, until hot. Uncover and bake 30 minutes longer, until lightly browned. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Top: roasting dish by Revol; bottom: plates by Lindsay Rogers Ceramics.

N O V E M B E R 2017

One 2-lb. head of cauliflower, cored and cut into florets 1½ lbs. multicolored carrots, sliced lengthwise into 4- to 5-inch pieces ½ cup plus 6 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper ¼ cup sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp. maple syrup 2 tsp. Dijon mustard ½ cup whole walnuts, toasted and smashed 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley, plus more for serving 1 Tbsp. grated orange zest, plus more for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425° with racks positioned in the upper and lower thirds. 2. On 3 separate rimmed baking sheets, place the brussels sprouts, cauliflower and carrots. Toss the vegetables on each baking sheet with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Roast the brussels sprouts until tender, 20 minutes. Tent with foil and keep warm. Roast the cauliflower and carrots until golden and tender, 30 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer the vegetables to bowls. 4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the vinegar with the maple syrup and Dijon. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the remaining ½ cup of olive oil until incorporated. Scrape the smashed walnuts into the bowl, then stir in the 2 tablespoons of parsley and the 1 tablespoon of orange zest and season with salt. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the roasted vegetables, garnish with more parsley and orange zest and serve.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

This pie takes the cake.

Here in Key West, our affection for confections is widely known. So while we’ll never turn up our noses to dessert, the icing on the cake for us will always be a slice of succulent homemade Key Lime Pie. Who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too? fla-keys.com/keywest 1.800.527.8539

The Reach - A Waldorf Astoria Resort

Steps from Duval Street, balconies with every room, private natural beach, spectacular oceanfront dining, sparkling pool & exhilarating watersports. 305-296-5000 reachresort.com

Casa Marina - A Waldorf Astoria Resort

Key West’s largest private natural beach, toes-in-the-sand dining, two dazzling pools, world-class watersports, rejuvenating spa, steps from Duval Street. 305-296-3535 casamarinaresort.com

Holiday Cooking

Instagram-Worthy Thanksgiving

Three-Layer Thanksgiving Cake Active: 35 min; Total: 2 hr; Serves 10 Why settle for one delicious flavor when you can have three? This outrageous cake has layers of pumpkin, cranberry-cornmeal and candied pecan, guaranteeing that everyone at the table will be satisfied. CAKES

1½ sticks unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus softened butter for greasing 2¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. allpurpose flour 1 1/8 tsp. baking soda 3/4

tsp. baking powder

3/4

tsp. kosher salt

1¼ cups granulated sugar 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature 3 large eggs, at room temperature 1/3

cup pure pumpkin puree

1¼ tsp. pumpkin pie spice 1¼ cups fresh or frozen cranberries, thawed and drained if frozen 1/3

cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1¼ cups candied pecans, roughly chopped FROSTING

1¼ lbs. cream cheese, softened 2½ sticks unsalted butter, softened 5 cups confectioners’ sugar Kosher salt

1. Make the cakes Preheat the oven to 350° with racks positioned in the upper and lower thirds. Butter three 9-by-9-inch metal cake pans and line them with parchment paper; allow 2 inches of overhang on 2 sides. Butter the paper.

granulated sugar, buttermilk and eggs until well combined. Whisk in the dry ingredients until just combined.

cakes cool in the pans for 15 minutes, then invert onto a rack to cool completely. Peel off the parchment paper.

3. Divide the batter among 3 medium bowls (1½ cups per bowl). Whisk the pumpkin puree, pumpkin pie spice and the remaining 1 tablespoon of flour into one of the bowls, then scrape the batter into one of the prepared pans. Fold the cranberries and cornmeal into another bowl and scrape into a second prepared pan. Fold the pecans into the final bowl and scrape the batter into the last prepared pan.

5. Meanwhile, make the frosting In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the cream cheese, butter, confectioners’ sugar and a pinch of salt until smooth.

4. Transfer all 3 pans to the oven and bake the cakes for about 15 minutes, rotating halfway through, until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake comes out clean. Let the

2. In a medium bowl, whisk 2¼ cups of the flour with the baking soda, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, whisk the melted butter with the

6. Place the pecan layer on a platter. Scrape ¾ cup of the frosting on top and spread to the edge. Top with the cranberry layer; scrape another ¾ cup of the frosting on top and spread to the edge. Top with the pumpkin layer. Spread a thin layer of frosting all over the cake and refrigerate until set, 15 minutes. Spread the remaining frosting all over the cake. Refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes, before serving.

Get up close for the most drool-worthy shot of your dessert.

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

TRAVEL JOURNAL

Postcard from

Watercress salad is a peppery companion for Pancetta-Wrapped Trout with Sage and Lemon (recipe p. 78). N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food photographs: john kernick; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. baking dish by revol

GLOBE-TROTTING CONTRIBUTOR ANDREW ZIMMERN TRAINS HIS ROVING EYE ON THE DELICIOUS FOOD OF HIS HOMETOWN.

This is not just a Prosecco. It’s Mionetto.

Since 1887, Mionetto in Northeast Italy’s enchanting Prosecco region has been writing its story, creating wines that captivate and inspire. The inimitable Mionetto style is expressed in this refined Prosecco Brut, with its seductive aromas and flavors of honey, golden apple and white peach. Experience Mionetto’s world of sparkling inspiration.

MionettoProseccoUSA.com CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO UE REGULATION No. 1308/2013

Travel Journal

Minneapolis

TROUT TROUT SALTIMBOCCA SALTIMBOCCA The headwaters of the Mississippi River feed thousands of Minnesota’s lakes and streams. One day I landed a lake trout in the North Country and came up with this bright and savory dish, inspired by the state’s first Italian immigrants. The pancetta wrapping helps keep the whole grilled fish from falling apart.

page 76 Total 45 min; Serves 4 Four ¾-lb. trout, cleaned Kosher salt and pepper 20 sage sprigs 12 thin lemon slices, plus ½ tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 lb. very thinly sliced pancetta Canola oil, for brushing 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 small shallot, minced 1 Tbsp. minced parsley 1 Tbsp. minced tarragon 1 Tbsp. minced scallion 1 Tbsp. minced mint

1 tsp. tomato paste

I root for the St. Paul Saints.

2 Tbsp. dry white wine 1/4

UICK. NAME AMERICA’S fastest growing and

most progressive food city. Either of the Portlands? Nashville? Charleston? These have been my choices over the past four years. Today my vote goes to my hometown, Minneapolis, and its twin city, St. Paul. It’s a thrilling moment for our more than 100 craft brewers (Surly is a favorite), award-winning distillers (Du Nord, J. Carver, Tattersall) and rising-star chefs (five F&W Best New Chefs, six James Beard Award winners), all with the farm-to-table gene that comes with the agrarian territory. Food trends that seem zeitgeisty on the country’s coasts— fermenting, canning, pickling, baking, and smoking meat and fish—are time-honored traditions here, and our artisans are only deepening and expanding them. This next-level food scene is constantly rejuvenated by ingredients and techniques imported by Twin Cities immigrants—Hmong, Chinese, Korean, Laotian, Vietnamese, Mexican, Salvadoran, Ethiopian, Somali, Scandinavian, German, Caribbean and Italian. Taking a cue from our regional bounty, I wanted to share a couple of updated classics that reflect what’s happening now in Minnesota: a tweaked turkey “hot dish”—the name Upper Midwesterners use for a kind of cozy casserole—and an old-is-new Italian take on a native fish we love. N O V E M B E R 2017

cup heavy cream

3 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp. unrefined hazelnut oil 2 Tbsp. unrefined peanut oil 8 oz. baby watercress 2 Tbsp. chopped chives

1. Season the fish all over with salt and pepper. Fill each cavity with 1 sprig of sage and 1 slice of lemon. Place 2 sprigs of sage and 1 slice of lemon on both sides of each fish. 2. Place a sheet of wax paper on a work surface. Arrange 6 to 8 slices of the pancetta in 2 overlapping rows to form a 6-by-8-inch rectangle. Set 1 fish on the bottom edge of the pancetta. Using the wax paper as a guide, tightly roll up the fish in the pancetta. Carefully peel off the wax paper. Brush the fish

with canola oil and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining fish and pancetta and more oil. 3. Preheat a grill or a broiler with a rack in the top third of the oven. Grill or broil the fish, flipping halfway through, until cooked through, about 6 minutes per side. Season with pepper. 4. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt the butter. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the shallot, parsley, tarragon, scallion, mint and tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for 20 seconds. Add the wine, bring the sauce to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons of the cream and cook until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Scrape the sauce into a small heatproof bowl and stir in the lemon juice. Season with salt. 5. In a large bowl, combine the mustard with the vinegar. Slowly drizzle in the hazelnut and peanut oils, whisking constantly, until incorporated. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of cream. Season with salt and pepper. Add the watercress and chives and toss to coat. Serve with the fish and butter sauce. WINE Vibrant Washington state

dry Riesling: 2015 Pacific Rim.

HUNGRY FOR MORE? Get a bonus recipe for Hmong Papaya Salad at foodandwine.com /andrew-zimmern. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

courtesy of travel channel

Pancetta-Wrapped Trout with Sage and Lemon

PLANALTO CASA FERREIRINHA The saying goes that the Douro suffers nine months of “inverno” (winter) and three of “inferno” (hell) – and it’s true that the winters are indeed hard, and the summers typically roasting. Achieving the desired freshness, fruit and vivacity in the grapes is possible only by sourcing fruit in the highest vineyards – the “planaltos” or high plateaus – hence the name of this reserve-level wine. Varietals: Viosinho, Malvasia Fina, Códega, Gouveio and Moscatel. www.sograpevinhos.com

PAPA FIGOS CASA FERREIRINHA This wine is named after one of the Douro’s most beautiful birds, (the bright yellow and black Golden Oriole, Papa Figos in Portuguese) that takes refuge, in the spring, in the Ribeira de Aguiar, in the heart of Quinta da Leda. The wine is elegant but vibrant, classic yet modern, an ideal red for everyday drinking as well as for special occasions. Varietals: Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. www.sograpevinhos.com

A small, yet diverse country, Portugal offers a stunning variety of terroirs, grape varieties and blends brought alive by a dynamic group of grape growers and winemakers with the perfect balance of creativity, artistry and technical skill. The result is a collection of wines both distinctive and authentic, unique among a sea of the same - this is what Portuguese wines are all about! The more you get to know them, the more these distinctions fascinate and draw you in - until finally it’s love, pure and simple. Come challenge your senses and enjoy the unique! Find more at www.winesofportugal.com/us @WPTUSA

Wines of Portugal U.S.

SANDEMAN 10 Y.O. TAWNY SANDEMAN Specially selected Portos are chosen for ageing in wooden casks, which concentrates their fruit and flavour. The colour matures from deep ruby through amber, producing a rare and delicious Tawny Porto. Along the years, the outstanding wines selected for this aged tawny are carefully tasted and analysed, racked from lees and corrections are carried out. The final blend results from a selection of wines between 9 and 12 years of age, composed to maintain the consistency and character of this Sandeman Porto Tawny 10 Years Old. www.sandeman.com www.facebook.com/TheSandemanDon www.instagram.com/sandemanporto

Travel Journal

Minneapolis

HOT DISH “Hot dish” is Minnesotan for baked layers of starch, meat, vegetables and, typically, canned soup. In my version, crisp brown Tater Tots provide the carb. (Nothing beats Tater Tots for this. Period.) And the meat comes from braised turkey. (Minnesota is the US turkey capital!) No condensed soup for me. I make a velouté sauce with the braising liquid and sautéed mushrooms.

Farmhouse Turkey Hot Dish Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 40 min Serves 6 to 8 2 whole turkey legs, cut into thighs and drumsticks (4 lbs.) 2 qts. chicken stock or low-sodium broth 7 Tbsp. unsalted butter 2 small carrots, chopped 1 celery rib, thinly sliced ½ small onion, chopped ¼ fennel bulb, chopped 1 tsp. dried thyme Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg ¼ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup heavy cream ½ cup thawed frozen peas ¼ cup minced parsley

Tater Tots make a golden, crunchy topper for Farmhouse Turkey Hot Dish.

Kosher salt and pepper ½ lb. mixed mushrooms, such as shiitake caps, cremini, white button, chanterelle and oyster, thinly sliced (3 cups) 2 leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped tarragon One 32-oz. bag frozen Tater Tots Flaky sea salt Hot sauce (optional)

1. In a large saucepan, combine the turkey legs with the chicken stock and, if necessary, water

N O V E M B E R 2017

about 5 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the reduced stock, bring to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the turkey, cream, peas and parsley, season with kosher salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Spread in a 9-by13-inch baking dish.

to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer until the meat is cooked through, about 1 hour. Using tongs, transfer the turkey to a cutting board and let cool. Simmer the stock over moderately high heat until reduced to 4 cups, about 20 to 40 minutes. Shred the meat and discard the skin and bones. 2. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large pot, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. Add the carrots, celery, onion, fennel, thyme and nutmeg and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned,

3. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Add the mushrooms and cook over moderately high

heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tarragon. Spread the mushroom mixture over the turkey in the baking dish. 4. Spread the tots over the mushroom mixture. Bake for 45 minutes, until bubbling and golden. Sprinkle with sea salt and serve with hot sauce, if desired. WINE Robust, berry-rich

Zinfandel: 2015 Seghesio Sonoma County.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

BOTTLE SERVICE

Keeping it local at Lewis & Clark in Helena, Montana.

Don’t miss this sorghum whiskey in Charleston.

America on Tap IF YOU WANT TO DRINK LOCAL, THE ANSWER IS LIKELY CLOSER THAN YOU THINK. RAY ISLE SHARES HIS FAVORITE BREWERIES, WINERIES AND DISTILLERIES IN ALL 50 STATES. THINK YOU HAVE to go to Northern California, Oregon or New York’s Finger Lakes to visit a top-flight American winery? Or make a lengthy road trip to drink great craft beer or artisanal spirits at the source? Think again. The US is in the midst of an unprecedented brewing-distilling-winemaking boom, and it shows no signs of slowing down. Across the

country, there are now more than 1,000 craft distilleries, 5,000 craft breweries and 9,000 wineries. With the exploding number of options, the tougher question for a lot of people is: how to choose? Not to worry. Let our guide to 50 favorites—one in every state in the union—get you started. Then go out and explore. Ranchers turned distillers in Wyoming.

Bike through bucolic surroundings in Virginia vineyards.

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Bottle Service

Drinking Local

California

Shafer Vineyards Pick one standout in a state with over 4,000 wineries? Impossible. But still, it’s hard to argue with Napa Valley’s Shafer Vineyards as the choice. Book in advance to taste the iconic Hillside Select Cabernet, one of California’s greatest reds. shafervineyards.com.

Colorado

Laws Whiskey House Rye and wheat from a family-owned Colorado farm go into some of the best whiskeys around at this Denver micro-distillery. Stop by to sample the spicy Four Grain Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond. lawswhiskeyhouse.com.

West Alaska

Hawaii

In an old Army fort in the tiny town of Haines, distillers Heather Shade and Sean Copeland are making one of the tastiest craft gins we’ve had recently: 50 Fathoms Gin. Is the place remote? Sure. Is it worth the trip? Definitely. portchilkootdistillery.com.

With 32 taps, food trucks outside and spectacular views, this lively brewery tasting room is a must-visit on Maui. Try the bold Double Overhead Double IPA. mauibrewingco.com.

Port Chilkoot Distillery

Maui Brewing Co.

Idaho

Callaghan Vineyards Forget cactus. Think grapes. Arizona’s wine scene is little-known outside the state, but its best bottles are superb. In the Sonoita region, visit pioneer vintner Kent Callaghan for intense reds like his 2013 Caitlin’s Red, a spicy Petit Verdot blend. callaghanvineyards.com.

In 2008, Idaho native Melanie Krause opened Cinder Winery near Boise. At her tasting room (in a former produce warehouse) try the smoky Syrah from the state’s Snake River Valley AVA. cinderwines.com.

Montana

Lewis & Clark Brewing Company This Helena craft brewer uses Montanagrown malt for beers like its toasty Back Country Scottish Ale, while also supporting local nonprofits. lewisandclarkbrewing.com.

Idaho Syrah? Yes, please.

Utah wheat is the story here.

Washington

Nevada

Tenaya Creek Brewery Take a break from the craps table—your odds of winning are better with beer. Just head to this Las Vegas taproom, where you can grab a cool pint of its creamy Hauling Oats Oatmeal Stout. Jackpot. tenayacreek.com.

Cadence Winery Make an appointment at this boutique winery’s tiny tasting room in Seattle’s South Park neighborhood to try winemaker Ben Smith’s stellar, age-worthy reds, like the 2013 Bel Canto. cadencewinery.com.

Wyoming

New Mexico

Wyoming Whiskey

Gruet

Champagne? Nope: New Mexico sparkling. But if that’s what you thought after tasting this winery’s elegant NV Blanc de Noirs, you wouldn’t be the first to be fooled. Swing by the Albuquerque tasting room for limited cuvées sold nowhere else. gruetwinery.com.

The Mead family came to Kirby, Wyoming, in 1890 for ranching. They still do plenty of that, but now they also make remarkable whiskeys from local grains. Take a tour and finish with a taste of the Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey. wyomingwhiskey.com.

Oregon

The Carlton Winemakers Studio Melanie Krause honed her craft in Washington state before founding Cinder Wines near Boise.

Distillery

N O V E M B E R 2017

Brewery

Winery

This collective in the wine-centric town of Carlton offers bottles from 13 regional producers, including top names like Hamacher and Andrew Rich, whose 2012 Knife Edge Pinot Noir is a must-try. winemakersstudio.com.

Utah

High West Distillery For a shot of pure Utah-ness, head east from Salt Lake City to Wanship for High West’s unusual Valley Tan Whiskey, made with wheat and oats (a mash bill used by 19th-century Mormon distillers), distilled on-site and sold only in-state. highwest.com.

It’s all Montana, all the time, at Lewis & Clark.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

opener, clockwise from top left: peter frank edwards; graham yelton; jason o’neil; courtesy of wyoming whiskey; prairie berry winery; andrea hubbell. this page, clockwise from top: courtesy of high west distillery; jason o’neil; cinder wines

Cinder Wines

Arizona

SEND

DELICIOUS HOLIDAY

WISHES

F O O D & W I N Eâ&#x201E;¢ Holiday Gift , Cocktail Part y Collection

Bring joy and celebrate the holidays with a gift filled with the tastes they love. Only from Food & Wine and Harry & David. HARRYANDDAVID.COM/FOODANDWINE

20% OFF WITH CODE FW20 Ends 12/25/17. While supplies last.

Bottle Service

Drinking Local

Indiana

North Dakota

Three Floyds Brewing Co.

Fargo Brewing Company

Three Floyds is legendary thanks to its Dark Lord Day festival every May. But its Munster brewpub is open year-round, with 15-plus choices on tap, such as the flagship Alpha King Pale Ale. 3floyds.com.

Four native North Dakotans started Fargo in a garage in 2010. Today their brewery and taproom is a popular draw, thanks to excellent brews like the hop-intense, piney Wood Chipper IPA, as well as limited-release offerings. fargobrewing.com.

Iowa Cedar Ridge Distillery Drop by Swisher’s Cedar Ridge to enjoy superior spirits such as founder Jeff Quint’s toffee-scented Iowa Bourbon Whiskey, along with pizzas from the wood-burning oven. crwine.com.

Alabama

Kansas

TrimTab Brewing Even if you can’t make one of the frequent “Happenings” here—think drum circles and fire dancers—stop by the Birmingham brewery to quaff the excellent, wheat-based Bankston 88 Belgian Blonde. trimtabbrewing.com.

A beer fan fave in Birmingham.

Union Horse Distilling Company This Kansas City–area whiskey specialist does all its distilling and barreling in-house. The payoff? Top-notch spirits like its Reunion Straight Rye Whiskey, made with local grain. unionhorse.com.

Kentucky Bourbon legend Lincoln Henderson’s legacy lives on at Angel’s Envy, the Louisville distillery he founded in 2010. Hit the tasting room to try the subtly red-fruited Port Finish Kentucky Straight Bourbon. angelsenvy.com.

Louisiana Abita Brewing Company It’s an hour’s drive north from New Orleans to this brewery’s destination-worthy taproom in Covington, where you can try its benchmark Turbodog Brown Ale. abita.com.

Minnesota Surly Brewing Company At Surly’s vast beer hall in Minneapolis, order a glass of the funky Belgian-style pale ale Cynic to go with some of the excellent barbecue. surlybrewing.com.

Mississippi Rich Grain Distilling Co. Bike Rack Brewing Company Pedal up, dismount and relax into a pint of toasty Epic Trail Amber Ale at this brewery, founded by four cyclist friends, in Bentonville’s Arts District. bikerackbrewing.com.

Illinois FEW Spirits All of FEW’s impressive gins and whiskeys are entirely distilled and aged at its Evanston facility. Don’t miss the citrus-and-black-teainflected Breakfast Gin. fewspirits.com.

Feeling brave? Head to Tulsa to try Prairie’s Bomb!, a crazily luscious Imperial stout infused with coffee, chocolate and ancho chile that clocks in at 13 percent alcohol. Or, for a more sessionable option, go for Standard, a crisp farmhouse ale. Either way, you win. prairieales.com.

South Dakota Prairie Berry Winery/Miner Brewing Company These family-owned projects in the heart of the Black Hills region are next door to each other. Drop by after visiting nearby Mount Rushmore for a taste of the exceptional Black IPA. prairieberry.com; minerbrewing.com.

Tennessee

Angel’s Envy

Arkansas

Prairie Artisan Ales

Inside an 1880s brick building in Canton, distiller Dave Rich makes some of the best spirits we’ve tasted lately. Sign up for one of the regular Saturday tours, then sample his superb caramel-tinged bourbon. richdistilling.com.

Missouri Side Project Brewing

Corsair Distillery Corsair’s Derek Bell and Andrew Webber live for experimentation, and the lineup at their Nashville distillery ranges from their Wildfire hickory-smoked malt whiskey to hibiscusinfused Red Absinthe. Take a tour and then taste their handiwork. corsairdistillery.com.

Texas 4.0 Cellars Sample Texas cheeses and local chocolates alongside wines from three of the state’s top wineries at this Fredericksburg spot in Hill Country. And if the aromatic 2016 McPherson Cellars Cinsaut happens to be open, definitely don’t miss it. fourpointwine.com.

Wisconsin Ale Asylum The cavernous, orange-walled taproom at this Madison favorite is perennially packed with beer lovers downing pints of impressive, whimsically named offerings like the powerfully hopped Ambergeddon red ale. aleasylum.com.

Angel’s Envy, right in downtown Louisville.

Cory and Karen King brilliantly hit both the barrel-aged and sour beer trends with their brews. Visit their St. Louis–area tasting room, The Cellar, to check out their fragrant La Ruche Honey Saison. sideprojectbrewing.com.

Nebraska Cut Spike/Lucky Bucket

Distillery

N O V E M B E R 2017

Brewery

Winery

Jason Payne’s subtle Cut Spike Distillery Single Malt Whiskey is a winner, and so is his crisp Lucky Bucket Brewing Pre-Prohibition Style Lager. Conveniently, the tasting rooms— just outside Omaha—are adjacent to each other. cutspikedistillery.com; luckybucketbrewing.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top: courtesy of cedar ridge distillery; angel’s envy; graham yelton

Central

Oklahoma

Bottle Service

Drinking Local

North Carolina The Duck-Rabbit Craft Brewery An early player in North Carolina’s craft beer scene, Greenville-area “dark beer specialist” Duck-Rabbit is still one of the best. During the winter months, be sure to try the superb Baltic Porter. duckrabbitbrewery.com.

Ohio Great Lakes Brewing Co. Rye specialist Sagamore Spirit is a welcome addition to Baltimore’s whiskey scene.

Massachusetts

Connecticut

Trillium Brewing Company

New England Brewing Company Fans line up for this New Haven–area brewery’s obsessively sought-after Fuzzy Baby Ducks IPA. That’s a great beer, to be sure, but don’t bypass the roasty, delicious Imperial Stout Trooper, which, at 9.5 ABV, packs a blaster-like wallop. newenglandbrewing.com.

Delaware

Until this popular Boston brewer opened its Canton location in 2015, devotees had to fill growlers and then skedaddle. Now you can take a seat to try limited releases on tap as well as favorites like the grassy, dry-hopped Heavy Mettle Double IPA. trilliumbrewing.com.

If you need to immerse yourself in everything Dogfish Head, stay a night at its quirky, beer-themed inn in nearby Lewes. A glass of the beloved 90 Minute IPA, followed by a comfortable bed? Sign us up. dogfish.com.

Portland’s Allagash was early to the caskaged beer game, and brews like its luscious Curieux, a bourbon-barrel-aged Belgian-style triple ale, are standard bearers. allagash.com.

Maryland

High Wire Distilling

Creature Comforts Brewing Co. Head to this 1940s Chevy dealershipturned-brewery in Athens for top-quality brews, among them the acclaimed, citrusy Tropicália IPA. creaturecomfortsbeer.com.

Distillery

N O V E M B E R 2017

Brewery

Vermont The Alchemist

Blueberry wine? Hold your skepticism until you try Ken Hardcastle’s Petite Blue Reserve. It’s completely dry and thrillingly fragrant. Sample it at the winery’s tasting room in Meredith. hermitwoods.com.

New Jersey

Virginia

Hermit Woods Winery

Georgia

Baker turned distiller Scott Blackwell focuses on regional Southern grains at his downtown Charleston distillery. For a good example of his style, check out the maple-smoky New Southern Revival Sorghum Whiskey. highwiredistilling.com.

Yes, hordes start lining up early at this vaunted brewery’s door in Stowe for a chance to score some cans of its famed Heady Topper Double IPA. But, frankly, we find all of owners John and Jen Kimmich’s world-class brews covetable, not least their hoppy, roasty, chocolaty Beelzebub Imperial Stout. alchemistbeer.com.

New Hampshire

The citrusy, robustly hopped Jai Alai IPA is one of Florida’s most popular craft beers, and the riotous Tampa tasting room is a fine place to down a pint of it. cigarcitybrewing.com.

Visiting Newport? Make sure to stop at this brewery (and distillery) for its unfiltered Rhode Trip IPA. Or, if you’re a rum fan, opt for the smooth Thomas Tew rum, named after a legendary pirate. newportstorm.com.

South Carolina

The über-talented Sean O’Keefe may be Michigan’s premier winemaker. At Mari’s Upper Mission Peninsula tasting room, you can check out his elegant wines, including the Mari Riesling. marivineyards.com.

Cigar City Brewing

Newport Storm Brewery

We feel that Under Armour founder Kevin Plank put his fortune to excellent use when he opened Baltimore’s Sagamore Spirit. Stop by the Inner Harbor–area distillery to try the intense Rye. sagamorespirit.com.

Mari Vineyards

Florida

Head to this bucolic, Brandywine Valley winery and buy a bottle of its lemony 2016 Hopewell Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc to enjoy at one of the terrace tables under the trees. chaddsford.com.

Sagamore Spirit

Michigan

Cask-aged ales at Allagash in Maine.

Chaddsford Winery

Rhode Island

Maine Allagash Brewing Company

Dogfish Head Brewery

Pennsylvania

Unionville Vineyards

Early Mountain Vineyards

At Unionville Vineyards in Ringoes—about a 30-minute drive north of Trenton—the complex 2014 Home Vineyard Chardonnay will lay to rest any doubts you have about the quality of New Jersey wines. unionvillevineyards.com.

Located just north of Charlottesville, Early Mountain produces standouts such as its vivid, citrus-tinged 2016 Rosé. It’s also a great place to taste other top local wines: A rotating selection is always available in its “Best of Virginia” program. earlymountain.com.

New York Ravines Wine Cellars Among the Finger Lakes’ many fine wineries, Ravines in Geneva gets our nod, not only for its steely 2015 Dry Riesling but also for chef Scott Riesenberger’s terrific three-course “Ravinous Table” pairing lunches. ravineswine.com.

Winery

West Virginia Smooth Ambler Spirits Whiskey fans flock to this distillery’s tasting room in Maxwelton to sample its acclaimed line of Old Scout bourbons. While there, be sure to pick up a bottle or two of the small-production and single-barrel releases you won’t find elsewhere. smoothambler.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Whiskey, 19thcenturystyle.

clockwise from top: courtesy of sagamore spirit; jonathan boncek; allagash brewing

East

Early out of the gate in the indie brewing race—it opened in 1986—Great Lakes brought craft beer to Cleveland, and is still going strong. Sit down at the taproom’s mahogany bar for a glass of its rich, ink-dark Blackout Stout. greatlakesbrewing.com.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

THE COL L ECTION Now Available at HSN SHOP THE NEW COLLECTION SEARCH FOOD & WINE AT HSN.COM

$10 OFF YOUR FIRST FOOD & WINE ORDER WITH CODE 176490 Coupon 176490 can be used on more than one item and can only be used once by its recipient and is valid for new HSN customers only. This coupon is valid for $10 off your HSN order of $20 or more from HSN’s distributed commerce platforms, HSN TV, HSN2, HSN.COM, HSN Mobile or HSN Shop By Remote (where available). Coupon number is non-transferable. Coupons must be applied when order is placed. Excludes shipping & handling, sales tax, Today’s Special, Today’s Special Presale, This Day Only offers, and clearance items and can only be applied to the first shipment of Auto-Ship items. The use of this coupon may disqualify the order from inclusion in other promotional offers or discounts. Coupons cannot be applied to or combined with other coupons. Coupon is not valid for Arrow Sewing, charitable contributions, gift cards, wine and alcohol, Janome, Samsung large appliances, selected footwear, the iRobot Roomba 880, electronics and gaming. We reserve the right to cancel orders when unexpected coupon system errors occur or in the case of abuse, misuse or fraud in connection with the coupon number. Offer is valid 10/1/2017-12/31/2017. Coupon Expires on 12/31/2017

Switch to GEICO and save money for the things you love. Maybe it’s a serving of sturgeon roe. Or a few ounces of white truffle. Amazing food is what you love – and it doesn’t come cheap. So switch to GEICO, because you could save 15% or more on car insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.

Auto • Home • Rent • Cycle • Boat geico.com | 1-800-947-AUTO (2886) | local office Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Homeowners and renters coverages are written through non-affiliated insurance companies and are secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2017 GEICO

HOW WE EAT

The

New American NOW

Table Produced by KATE HEDDINGS & CHRISTINE QUINLAN Food Photographs by JOHN KERNICK

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

N OV E M B E R 2017

ghanoush and pho. Once, my son, fed up with the globe-trotting succession of meals he’d been served, actually cried out: “I just want American food! Like hamburgers! Or tacos!” I don’t recall what we were eating on the night of that outburst—it might have been tikka masala delivered by UberEats or chicken souvlaki pitas assembled from one of those hand-holding Blue Apron kits—but it happened to be a meal when the entire family was sitting down together. And that’s a rarity these days. For much of America, dinner is very often not in a dining room, unless you’ve turned that room into a home office, in which case you probably do eat there. More likely you’re eating on a stool at one of those islands everyone puts in their kitchens. Or maybe you’re hunched around a coffee table in front of a TV, or at a Michelin-starred restaurant in front of your phone. And yet, the activity of eating in this country has arguably never been more social. Food continues to serve as a catalyst that brings us together—especially around the holidays. So, as our nation prepares for its most secularly sacred feast on Thanksgiving, this seemed like a perfect time to take a closer look at our dining habits as individuals, as families, as a society. Featured on the following pages are some of the people, trends and issues now shaping the country’s food rituals, captured in various moments across a 24-hour period. Think of it as a day in the life of the evolving American table. Come, pull up a seat. —joel stein

And that’s a good thing. Growing up in the ’70s and ’80s, my mom’s dinners were limited to a short rotation of roast chicken, London broil, shrimp scampi, frozen Hungry-Man meals and takeout. To be fair, she was working with limited options. At our local supermarket, the lettuce was mostly iceberg, the apples were only red and not delicious, and there was one variety of mushroom—the kind that will make you hate mushrooms for your entire life. Still, we ate pretty well. Actually, we didn’t. These days we’ve got more choices, more knowledge and, yes, more guilt than ever. Our food stores not only offer multiple varieties of produce but also ones that are organically and, often, locally grown. Meat is free-range and/or grass-fed. Seafood is sustainably harvested. Coffee is fair-trade. We are so food-woke, our choices around what we eat are nearly as central to our identity as our Instagram feeds that obsessively document those choices. Plus, our food is so globalized now. Not only can we find real tacos from coast to coast, but we can also find real Oaxaca- or Baja-style tacos. While nationalists may be having a moment politically, they are getting killed in the aisles of Trader Joe’s, which is the United Nations of packaged foods. People in Houston can discern between northern Thai and southern Thai cuisine, while picking a Chinese food restaurant in Seattle or Chicago or Philly might mean choosing between Sichuan, Cantonese, Hunan and Taiwanese. Kids regularly eat sushi, soup dumplings, baba N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. opposite: eva kolenko

We the people of the United States… don’t eat like we used to.

A rotating menu of global dishes, like Pork-and-Potato Curry (recipe p. 120), nourishes the staff at The Charter Oak in St. Helena, California.

7:00 A.M.

Modern Farmer Breakfast At a sustainable farm in northern New York, the first meal of the day is often the best.

BREAKFAST POPCORN AND MILK

Kristin Kimball calls popcorn and milk the â&#x20AC;&#x153;farm-grown, whole-food answer to packaged cereal.â&#x20AC;?

Bowls and jug from Herriott Grace; spoon from Farmhouse Pottery.

opposite: paola + murray

p. 118

WORKDAYS ON ESSEX FARM, our CSA occupying 1,100 acres in Essex, New York, next to Lake Champlain, usually begin with a 5 a.m. alarm. The first thing that crosses my lips is a cup of coffee, which, thanks to a hearty splash of cream skimmed from the milk produced by our 20 Jersey cows, practically counts as a meal. It’s enough to power me through the first two hours of chores, milking cows and feeding calves. Family breakfast is around 7 a.m., and it’s usually a serious feast. Our two daughters head off to school afterward, and since dinner is often the least impressive meal in our house, breakfast is my best chance to fill them with nutrients. It’s not unusual for the girls to start their day with cheeseburgers and a side of kale

credit here dummy credit here dummy credit here

salad. The farm’s 400 hens keep us (and our 225 CSA members) supplied with eggs by the dozen, which we often soft-boil, adding a melting hunk of butter into the creamy yolk. My husband, Mark, is famous in our family for his baroque breakfast sandwiches of sausage, farm cheese, greens (butter lettuce in the spring, arugula in the fall) and sauerkraut piled on toasted slices of his sourdough bread. Everything on those sandwiches is grown or made by us and our team. Occasionally, when the girls—or their parents—are running late, and something simple and fast is called for, we do popcorn and milk. It’s the instant, farm-grown, whole-food answer to packaged cereal. And it’s also great for snacking. —KRISTIN KIMBALL

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

N OV E M B E R 2017

10:30 A.M.

Coffee & Community A Baltimore cafĂŠ sustains a neighborhood with more than just great food.

Aisha Pew, third from left, with her partner, Cole (in checked shirt), mother, Gilda Bain-Pew (in blue shirt), and a few collaborators who make Dovecote CafĂŠ shine.

N O V E M B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Platter by Jessica Niello-White.

SMASHED-BANANA BREAD

opposite: nathan perkel

p. 118

ON WEEKEND MORNINGS, Dovecote Café in Baltimore’s predominantly black Reservoir Hill neighborhood thrums with activity. The place is always packed with people, some tapping away on laptops, others catching up with friends over good coffee, lavender-spiked granola and smashed-banana bread. You’ll usually find a group spilling onto the terrace out front. Inside, where the walls are lined with art for sale as part of Dovecote’s Artists Shouldn’t Starve series, a few tables might be reserved for a workshop with Brown+Healthy, a nonprofit focused on wellness initiatives for people of color. Spend a little time at Dovecote and you’ll understand why “community first, café second” is its motto, mission and war cry. “Social spaces are what make a neighborhood,” says Aisha Pew, who opened this coffee shop cum de facto civic hub in 2016 with her mother, Gilda, and her partner, who goes by the single name Cole. “As black people, we’ve been taught that those things only exist in

white neighborhoods, and once they open near our homes, we can’t afford to be there anymore.” Pew has seen it happen—first in Brooklyn, where she grew up, and later in Oakland, California. But in Baltimore, a city that’s 63 percent black, she saw an opportunity to shift the paradigm. First things first: Dovecote is an exceptional café. Co-chefs Amanda Mack and La Payne devise bright salads and simple, satisfying sandwiches, while baker Danyelle Tobin turns out irresistible sweets, including a crowd-favorite peach upside-down cake. But if you didn’t look up from your plate every now and then, you’d be missing the point. Dovecote now hosts monthly takeover dinners, turning the kitchen over to black chefs; on Thursdays there’s a regular produce pop-up in partnership with Baltimore Free Farm. As Pew, who hopes to open a grocery store across the street, explains, “We want to build what a black community needs to thrive.” —JORDANA ROTHMAN

11:30 A.M.

BEYOND CHICKEN NUGGETS How chefs are helping to make school lunches smarter. PERHAPS YOU LOOK back fondly on your school cafeteria lunches—more likely you’d rather forget. Well, things are changing. Chefs have become some of the country’s most vocal advocates for tastier and healthier school lunches, some 30 million of which are served across the US each academic day. In addition to testifying in front of Congress for higher nutrition standards, many chefs are doing groundlevel work to improve the quality of lunches and educate students about what they eat. “I’m focused on school lunch becoming part of the academic curriculum,” says Alice Waters, whose Edible Schoolyard Project (edibleschoolyard.org) has reached more than 5,500 schools globally, bringing food lessons to life through meals. In New London, Connecticut, former Noma head chef Daniel Giusti started Brigaid (chefsbrigaid.com), a program that enlists chefs to run school cafeterias. “They don’t just impact the food but forge relationships with the students and the community,” he says. New York chef Bill Telepan first got involved with Wellness in the Schools (wellnessintheschools.org) a decade ago. He serves as executive chef for the organization, which partners with more than 40 chefs to revamp menus with more nutritious options at over 125 schools in New York, New Jersey, California and Florida. Inspired by Michelle Obama’s Let’s Move! campaign, chefs Paul Kahan, Matthias Merges and others cofounded Pilot Light (pilotlightchefs.org) in Chicago in 2010. The group works with teachers to integrate what kids are taught in the classroom with what they eat for lunch, like studying fermentation methods through making kimchi. And Cathal Armstrong, who started Chefs as Parents (chefsasparents.com) to provide more wholesome lunches at a single school in Washington, DC, aims to expand across the city. “It took us 30 years to destroy school lunch,” he says. “It’ll take 30 years to build it back up.” —Elyse Inamine

N OV E M B E R 2017

3:00 P.M.

In Praise of Sunday Supper Kansas City, Missouri, chefs Megan and Colby Garrelts start each week with a nourishing mix of family, friends and food. MAKING A FESTIVE SUNDAY dinner for family and friends— whether popping a roast in the oven to tuck into after church, hand-rolling fresh pasta for trays of lasagna, or tending to the barbecue in between football games—is a tradition that seems to have faded across the country. But that’s not the case at the home of Megan and Colby Garrelts, the couple behind the acclaimed Kansas City restaurants Bluestem and Rye. Both chefs grew up in the Midwest (he’s from Missouri, she’s from Illinois), an experience that not only shapes their food but also their family life. “Sunday meals are one of the reasons I started cooking,” says Colby, a 2005 F&W Best New Chef. “We’d always gather with friends and relatives—including aunts, cousins, grandparents— which I really loved. It was the best day of the week—and still is. Though we don’t get together as much as my father would like, we do a family dinner most Sundays.” The Sunday suppers of Colby’s youth usually meant barbecue outdoors during the warmer months, and braises, stews and chili in fall and winter. And that holds true today, though there’s a bit more variety in the meals, like when Megan experiments with Indian or Middle Eastern flavors. “Our kids [ages 7 and 10] are more adventurous now and both want to cook, so we look for ways to get them more involved. We made fondue together on a recent Sunday,” Megan says. As in lots of American homes, table talk tends toward school, travel, politics. Unless, that is, both sets of parents are present, in which case the last topic is off-limits. “Truth is, we don’t need a lot of topics,” Megan says. “My father can fill whole conversations all by himself.” —STEPHEN WALLIS

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

PORK-ANDBRISKET CHILI

p. 100

SCALLION-CORN MUFFINS

p. 101

For chefs Megan and Colby Garrelts, Sundays are for satisfying familystyle dishes.

Pot from Food52.

CELERY ROOT, APPLE AND FENNEL SLAW

p. 101

Pastry chef Megan Garrelts uses Missouri pecans and Kansas walnuts in her MoKan Nut Pie.

In the fall, chef Colby Garrelts makes a giant pot of chili with a mix of pork shoulder and brisket. Pork-and-Brisket Chili page 99 Active 1 hr 45 min; Total 4 hr plus overnight soaking Serves 10 to 12 BEANS

1 lb. small dried pink beans, such as Rancho Gordo’s Pinquitos, soaked overnight and drained 5 garlic cloves 1 small yellow onion, quartered through the core

SUNDAYS ARE WHY I STARTED COOKING. IT WAS THE BEST DAY OF THE WEEK— AND STILL IS.”

1 medium carrot, halved crosswise 1 celery rib, halved crosswise 1½ Tbsp. kosher salt CHILI

3½ lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1½-inch pieces

—CHEF COLBY GARRELTS

2 lbs. brisket, cut into 1½-inch pieces Kosher salt and pepper 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 3 medium yellow onions, chopped

MOKAN NUT PIE

p. 101

1 green bell pepper— stemmed, seeded and chopped 10 garlic cloves, chopped ¼ cup tomato paste ¼ cup chili powder 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. mustard powder 1 Tbsp. ground cumin One 16-oz. jar roasted green Hatch chiles (medium heat) One 16-oz. can crushed tomatoes 5 qts. chicken stock or lowsodium broth ¼ cup oregano leaves Sour cream, shredded cheese and thinly sliced scallions, for serving

1. Make the beans In a large saucepan, cover all of the ingredients with 4 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until the beans are just tender, about 1 hour. Drain well and discard the vegetables. 2. Make the chili Season the pork and brisket generously with salt and pepper. In a large pot, heat the vegetable oil until shimmering. In batches, cook the pork and brisket over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a baking sheet. 3. Add the onions, bell pepper, garlic and a generous pinch of salt to the pot. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until just starting to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste, chili powder, brown sugar, mustard powder and cumin and cook, stirring, until fragrant and the vegetables are coated, about 3 minutes. Add the Hatch chiles and tomatoes and cook, stirring, until bubbling, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the meat and oregano and simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the meat is barely tender, about 1 hour. 4. Stir the beans into the chili and simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the meat and beans are tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes longer. Serve hot with sour cream, shredded cheese and thinly sliced scallions. MAKE AHEAD The chili can be

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels ¼ cup finely chopped scallions

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease the cups of two 12-cup muffin pans with nonstick cooking spray. 2. In a large bowl, whisk the cornmeal with the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the milk and butter until smooth. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry until combined, then fold in the corn kernels and scallions. 3. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups. Bake for about 15 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Let the muffins cool in the pan for 10 minutes before serving.

1¾ cups fine cornmeal 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup sugar 1½ Tbsp. baking powder 2 tsp. kosher salt

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. In the same bowl, whisk the olive oil with the vinegar, Dijon, capers and horseradish. Add the celery root, apples, celery ribs and leaves, fennel, parsley and oregano; toss well. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Serve right away.

MoKan Nut Pie Active 1 hr; Total 9 hr 30 min Makes one 9-inch pie CRUST

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1½ tsp. sugar ½ tsp. kosher salt 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and frozen 4 Tbsp. rendered pork lard, cubed and frozen

Celery Root, Apple and Fennel Slaw

1/3

cup ice water

page 99

FILLING

Total 45 min; Serves 8

1½ cups pecans, chopped

1 lb. celery root, peeled and julienned, preferably on a mandoline

1½ cups walnuts, chopped 1 stick plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed

½ cup sugar

6 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

1 cup sugar

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup cane syrup, preferably Steen’s, or dark corn syrup

2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

WINE Robust California Syrah:

Active 20 min; Total 45 min Makes 24

1. In a large bowl, toss the celery root with the sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt; let stand for 15 minutes. Drain the celery root well in a colander and squeeze out some of the excess liquid. Wipe out the bowl.

can be stored in an airtight container overnight. Warm in a low oven before serving.

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

page 99

Pepper

MAKE AHEAD The corn muffins

1 Tbsp. drained capers, chopped

Scallion-Corn Muffins

2 Tbsp. finely chopped oregano

1 stick unsalted butter, melted

refrigerated for up to 5 days. Reheat gently before serving. 2015 Eberle Steinbeck Vineyard.

½ cup lightly packed parsley leaves

2 large eggs 1½ cups whole milk

2½ Tbsp. bourbon 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 Tbsp. drained prepared horseradish 2 Braeburn or Lady apples, cored and julienned, preferably on a mandoline 5 celery ribs, thinly sliced, plus ½ cup lightly packed celery leaves 1 small fennel bulb— halved, cored and julienned, preferably on a mandoline

Unsweetened whipped cream, for serving

1. Make the crust In a food processor, pulse the 1 1/4 cups of flour with the sugar and salt until combined. Add the butter and lard and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle the ice water on top and pulse until the dough

101

just comes together. Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather any crumbs and pat into a disk. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until well chilled, about 4 hours or overnight. 2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 13-inch round. Ease the dough into a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Fold the overhang under itself and crimp decoratively. Freeze the crust until well chilled, at least 1 hour. 3. Preheat the oven to 375° and put the crust on a large rimmed baking sheet. Line the crust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the crust is just set. Remove the parchment and weights. Bake for about 15 minutes longer, until just starting to brown. Let cool completely. 4. Make the filling Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the pecans and walnuts on a large rimmed baking sheet. Toast in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Let cool. 5. In a medium skillet, cook the butter over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until foamy, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the milk solids turn brown and the butter smells nutty, about 4 minutes longer. Strain the brown butter through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl. Let cool to room temperature. 6. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the cooled brown butter, sugar, cane syrup, bourbon, salt and vanilla until smooth. Stir in the pecans and walnuts. 7. Pour the filling into the cooled crust. Bake for about 45 minutes, until the filling is nearly set. Transfer the pie to a rack and let cool completely, about 4 hours. Cut into wedges and serve with unsweetened whipped cream. MAKE AHEAD The pie can be covered and kept at room temperature for 3 days.

recipes continue on p. 118

N OV E M B E R 2017

4:30 P.M.

Staff Meal That Isn’t Just for Staff You’ll want what the cooks are having at Christopher Kostow’s buzzy new Napa Valley restaurant.

PORK-ANDPOTATO CURRY

p. 120

Obit et eic to con sey quepel min vluptatas, left, in cem ip is cis excep tat as mi etrem.

Style credit tktktk Style credit tktktk.

THE RESTAURANT STAFF meal is a ritual with its own special mystique. Whole books and photo essays have been dedicated to chronicling that magical half-hour or so prior to dinner service, when the cooks and servers, hosts and bussers all break bread together before going into battle. “Staff meal is the one time where everyone can stop what they’re doing, take a break and recharge,” says Katianna Hong, head chef at The Charter Oak, the massive all-day restaurant recently opened in St. Helena. As a way to invite diners into this private world and to give the spotlight to everyone who keeps things running, Hong and her boss, 2009 F&W Best New Chef Christopher Kostow, decided to offer each day’s staff meal as

The Charter Oak team gathers for Pork-andPotato Curry, left, before the dinner rush starts.

part of the restaurant’s bar menu. “People always want to see behind the curtain,” says Kostow, who also oversees the celebrated Restaurant at Meadowood up the road. “I don’t think they want to work the hours we work, but they want to be part of our world.” Responsibility for preparing the Charter Oak staff meal rotates among the kitchen team. So far, the offerings have ranged from a beef cheek poutine made by a proud Canadian cook to carnitas bowls by a butcher from Mexico to panzanellas that a baker prepared using leftover bread. “When you look at the staff meal, you can tell who made it,” says Hong. Here, she shares one that she came up with: a rib-sticking porkand-potato curry that reflects multiple Asian influences. —EI

7:00 P.M.

6:30 P.M.

Dinner on Demand

opposite right: eva kolenko

The 2017 version of a TV dinner is just as couch-friendly as the ’50s frozen original. And it might even have been prepared by one of the country’s best chefs.

ON THOSE SUNDAYS when fire-breathing dragons unleash their fury on Game of Thrones, Los Angeles chef Zach Pollack fights his own epic battle. “Especially from 5:30 to 7:30, it’s just utter annihilation,” Pollack says. “I don’t even have a chance to look up and see the dining room.” Pollack is referring to the crush of delivery orders at Cosa Buona, his popular ItalianAmerican restaurant in Echo Park. Some nights, his dining room is the easy part. With 46 seats, there’s a limit to how much guests will order. But there’s no cap on the pizzas, meatballs, wings and mozzarella sticks requested via the Caviar delivery app Pollack uses. Prominent chefs across the country are making a lot of food for delivery right now. David Chang even has his own service, Ando, in New York City. In an age of on-demand everything, multiple delivery services compete to bring us all kinds of things we once had to go buy for ourselves. And being able to order in dinner from dozens of respected restaurants in traffic-choked L.A. is especially life-changing. DoorDash transports Sugarfish sushi all over town. UberEats delivers patty melts from my favorite Studio City neighborhood restaurant, The Bellwether, in less time than it would take me to get dressed and drive there. I’ve contributed to the gig economy by tipping Postmates couriers for slogging 45 minutes over the Sepulveda Pass to bring katsu from Little Osaka. The food-delivery choices, which already seem endless, keep growing. In March 2016, the UberEats app launched in L.A. with 100 restaurants; this past summer that number had reached 2,500. And with Amazon and Facebook getting into the game, competition will only get more intense. Now excuse me while I log on to Grubhub to order my SnowLA Shavery dessert… —ANDY WANG

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

103

THE MEAL KIT EFFECT

Americans spent over $1 billion on home-delivered meal kits last year. A skeptical cook takes one for a test-drive. MY FIRST EXPERIENCE of cooking with a meal kit transported me back 20 years, to my time as a nervous, sweaty-faced culinary student in scratchy checked pants and a stapled paper hat. Intrigued by chef Matty Matheson’s hilarious how-to video for the Vice Munchies meals he created for Chef’d (imagine Melissa McCarthy doing a killer Guy Fieri impression), I’d ordered the trout almondine dinner for two. I’ll admit to a deep suspicion and reluctance toward meal kits. For one thing, I know how to cook, plus I like the shopping and prep, and I find meal kits’ excess packaging problematic. Still, my curiosity won out. Studying the instructions, gathering the equipment and assembling the ingredients was a total throwback to darling Chef Pascale’s teaching kitchen. “Don’t freak out,” he told us on the first day of school. “Freaking out is not gonna help.” Back then I found myself astonished and empowered every morning by the intensity of flavor that I could coax from a handful of vegetables, a piece of protein and—let’s be honest—lots and lots of butter. I’ve been a food professional for a long time—I’ve done stints in restaurant kitchens and as a private chef, and collaborated with Anthony Bourdain on two books—and I now cook from a place of confidence and instinct. But to my happy surprise, I learned a few things from meal kit cooking. The technique for roasting yellow fingerling potatoes (sliced lengthwise, tossed with olive oil and cooked face-down for 20 minutes at 400 degrees) gave me easily the best result I’ve ever had, and I’ll add it to my repertoire. Meal kits won’t replace cooking school, but they can treat you like a benevolent (or irreverent) teacher, and give you the confidence to be a better cook. I’m not sure I can count myself among the converted just yet, but I am looking forward to the Andrea Nguyen pho meal I just ordered from Chef’d. —Laurie Woolever N OV E M B E R 2017

7:00 P.M.

Family Dinner Goes Global Sohui Kim and Ben Schneider prep dinner in their Brooklyn kitchen with daughter Jasper and son Oliver.

REMEMBER WHEN YOU were growing up how there was one friend you hoped would ask you to stay for dinner because her family always had the best food? If you were still a kid and lived in a certain Brooklyn neighborhood, that family would be Sohui Kim and Ben Schneider’s. In Kim’s case, she had two friends, one Puerto Rican and the other Nigerian, whose mothers were fantastic cooks and exposed her early on to the concept of a global table. “We moved to the States from Korea when I was 10, so I grew up with Americana-infused Korean meals,” says Kim. “We’d have pizza night and do barbecues, but a crock of kimchi was still usually involved.” She refers to this way of eating as “globe-trotting, not fusion,” and it influences what she cooks at home as well as her menus for the couple’s first Brooklyn restaurant, The Good Fork (they also own the Korean barbecue joint Insa). She says Schneider, who designed and helps run both restaurants, “is really good at pasta, and our kids [ages 8 and 10] especially love his pesto, so they’ll snip the basil and help him make it.” Pasta night often starts with seaweed soup (recipe p. 118), but no matter what’s being served a few rules always apply: Everyone sits down at the table; you eat what’s in front of you; and no phones or other devices are allowed. “Once we’ve started, the kids will give me a thumbs-up or -down, and they usually say something like, ‘You made it better last time,’ ” Kim says. “We tend to get a magical five minutes or so until someone gets up.” —CHRISTINE QUINLAN

N OV E M B E R 2017

104

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

charissa fay

At home, the couple behind a pair of popular Brooklyn restaurants serve up border-hopping favorites that satisfy them and their picky kids.

Chef Sohui Kim makes crispy arctic char and a refreshing soba noodle salad with green beans, radishes and fresh basil for her family.

Plates by Miro Made This; flatware from West Elm; napkin from Hawkins New York.

ARTIC CHAR WITH SOBA AND GREEN BEANS

p. 118

12:30 A.M.

More than Just Late-Night Eats Finding good food after midnight can be a challenge. But in the city that never sleeps, Blue Ribbon has long been an oasis of the small hoursâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for community as well as the cooking.

FOUR-CHEESE FONDUE

Bruce and Eric Brombergâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Blue Ribbon Brasserie is a favorite post-shift hangout for chefs.

marcus nilsson (5)

p. 120

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS ago, before their Brooklyn bowling alley and subterranean bakery, before the South Beach sushi bar and grill and Las Vegas fried-chicken joint, there was Blue Ribbon Brasserie, Bruce and Eric Bromberg’s original room with the red velvet glow, at the confluence of New York City’s West Village and Soho neighborhoods. Bound by an admiration for fat and built for bonhomie, the menu is a novella and an anachronism: warm slicks of beef marrow smeared on grilled rustic bread. Torn collard greens blister-fried in rendered beef fat. Slabs of room-temperature foie gras terrine. Schmaltzy matzo balls bobbing in chicken broth. You’ll encounter curly parsley. You’ll taste Paris, along with New Orleans and the soul

Don Pintabona Zarela Martinez

Alfred Portale

Jonathan Waxman

Bruce Bromberg

of Jewish home kitchens. Then the pu pu platter arrives, blue-flame-licking lacquered ribs, a wink to postwar Trader Vic’s. Eat your heart out. And it’s open late, really late (4 a.m.), which has made Blue Ribbon a favorite of New York City chefs for post-shift drinks and eats, both then and now. I arrived a decade late to the Blue Ribbon party, in the early aughts, when I moved to New York in search of restaurant work. Later, when my now-wife and I were dating long distance, I took her there to celebrate long weekends. This past spring I returned, after midnight, with one of my chef mentors to celebrate one of the biggest nights of my career. The mojo remains. The room still glows. —HUNTER LEWIS

Anita Lo Eric Bromberg

Drew Nieporent

Anne Burrell Scott Conant

Chris Santos

Daniel Boulud

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

107

David Burke

N O V E M B E R 2017

108

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers; groomers: jessica mayuex and ashley bias; floral arrangement by fringe flowers; candle holders by cb2

Our Thanksgiving dream team? Definitely Ayesha and Stephen Curry. At their home in Northern California, the couple host a family celebration filled with fun and unforgettable food. BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY EVA KOLENKO PRODUCED BY KATE HEDDINGS

WHEN YOU WATCH Ayesha Curry on the Food Network and follow her epic Instagram stories, or you see her husband, NBA star Stephen Curry, out on the court, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear that these are two people who are wired for fun. This year has been a big one for both of them: Building on her successful cooking show and cookbook, Ayesha has a new restaurant,

meal-kit service and cookware line, while Stephen and his Golden State Warriors teammates won their second championship in three seasons. So the couple have lots to celebrate as they gather family and friends at their Bay Area home for Thanksgiving, an event the Currys approach with the same exuberance that infuses everything they do.

In other words, expect plenty of predinner dancing as the turntable blasts Adele and Johnnyswim, as well as some impromptu singalongs, wine in hand, to tracks from Hamilton. (Ayesha and Stephen slay on “You’ll Be Back.”) Throughout the meal there’s playful locker-roomstyle banter and even occasional towel snapping— only here it’s done with linen napkins. Guests know they can count on some high jinks from Stephen, like the time last year when—just as Ayesha had succeeded in getting everything on the table—he preempted the blessing by flying a drone in through the window to capture a group photo. After dinner, Ayesha’s father’s guitar might come out and some serious gaming starts—Taboo and Cards Against Humanity are favorites—while everyone enjoys coffee and Ayesha’s incredible pumpkin ice cream. Welcome to Thanksgiving with the infectiously energetic Currys. Growing up, the Thanksgiving holiday was a big deal in both Ayesha’s and Stephen’s homes, so it wasn’t easy for them to wrestle control from their families. But with the basketball season making it tough to travel, they managed to persuade everyone to come to them. It’s a gathering that can total 30 people or more, requiring some clever maneuvering to seat everyone together in the dining room and adjacent kitchen. No doubt Ayesha’s amazing caramel bread pudding (p. 124) and coconut curry cornbread stuffing (p. 116) »

oval platter by prouna; black serving spoon from cb2; round platter from hawkins new york

opposite: Ayesha and Stephen Curry take a quick dance break with their daughters, Riley, 5, and Ryan, 2, before Thanksgiving dinner at their Bay Area home. this page: Ayesha chooses the soundtrack and gets a spin from Stephen before guests arrive for a globally inspired feast that includes spice-rubbed roasted potatoes (top left, recipe p. 122) and fragrant rice with pepitas and dates (bottom right, recipe p. 114).

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

111

N OV E M B E R 2017

helped to persuade the largely North Carolina– based families to make the trip to California. While the Currys’ holiday table features plenty of familiar dishes, there are also surprises. “I grew up in a Jamaican household, so besides the traditional meal, like sweet potato casserole and turkey, my mom would also make jerk chicken, curry, and rice and beans,” Ayesha says. “There was something for everyone, and I kind of kept that going.” For her that means serving dishes such as maple-glazed salmon and mustard-and-panko-rubbed rack of lamb (both p. 116) alongside the turkey. Ayesha’s mom is Jamaican and Chinese and her dad is AfricanAmerican and Polish, which she says has always made her table “a big melting pot.” For Stephen, a self-described bland eater before he met Ayesha, it’s been an awakening. “I didn’t like sushi or chocolate or anything spicy when we started dating, and the first time I went to Ayesha’s house they had oxtails and curried goat and this mean chocolate cake,” he recalls. “With her I have to be ready for all that. She has definitely expanded my tastes.” Before they had their daughters and became the official family hosts, Ayesha would make Thanksgiving dinner for Stephen’s teammates. For some it was the full sit-down production; others would just stop by to make a plate to go so they didn’t miss out. The guys still ask for her pumpkin squares every year. While cooking is clearly Ayesha’s domain, Stephen has tried his hand at it a bit, and there’s no question he’s more comfortable with a basketball than a knife. “Slicing, dicing, finely chopping—I struggle with that,” Stephen says. “And having the patience is hard for me.” His composure on the court doesn’t always translate to the kitchen. “Ayesha is meticulous about a lot of stuff, but she doesn’t measure anything when she’s cooking, and I’m the exact opposite,” he says. “If something goes wrong, there’s a mild panic moment for me since I don’t know how to recover.” N O V E M B E R 2017

112

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

wineglasses by cb2. opposite: plates by vista alegre; forks by west elm; tumblers by iittala

AT THE CURRYS’ THANKSGIVING CELEBRATION, EXPECT PLENTY OF PREDINNER DANCING AS THE TURNTABLE BLASTS ADELE AND JOHNNYSWIM, AS WELL AS SOME IMPROMPTU SING-ALONGS, WINE IN HAND, TO TRACKS FROM HAMILTON.

A vinaigrette with bacon and brown sugar adds savorysweet notes to a kale salad (recipe p. 114).

Kale Salad with Bacon– Brown Sugar Vinaigrette Total 35 min; Serves 10 to 12 1 cup pecans ½ lb. bacon, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1/3

cup apple cider vinegar

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. mixed Tuscan and curly kale, stemmed, leaves torn

4. In a large serving bowl, toss the kale with the toasted pecans, the apples, dried cranberries, radishes and warm dressing. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Serve. MAKE AHEAD The dressing can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Warm gently in a microwave before using. WINE Fruity, dry California rosé:

2016 Balletto Winery Rosé of Pinot Noir.

1 cup unsweetened dried cranberries

Spatchcocked Turkey with Pink Peppercorns and Thyme

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the pecans in a pie plate. Toast in the oven for about 6 minutes, until fragrant. Let cool, then coarsely chop. 2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until rendered and crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain; reserve the bacon for another use. 3. In a small heatproof bowl, whisk the hot bacon fat with the brown sugar until dissolved.

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

Whisk in the vinegar and Dijon and season the dressing with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

2 Granny Smith apples— cored, quartered and thinly sliced

8 radishes, thinly sliced

There is no doubt the Currys have a lot to be grateful for, and they know it. “We start Thanksgiving dinner with a prayer, and then we go around the table to talk about what we’re thankful for. It usually ends in an argument because someone cracks a joke or brings up something they shouldn’t,” Ayesha says with a laugh. As the night winds down and the guests clear out, taking leftovers with them, Ayesha and Stephen take a moment to reflect. This time of year, he’s often just back from a road game or about to leave for one. “No matter what happens professionally,” Stephen says, “there’s no bad day when you get to come home and be with family.”

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 15 min Serves 10 to 12 1 large onion, thinly sliced into rounds 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced 2 carrots, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. finely ground pink peppercorns 2 Tbsp. dried thyme 2 Tbsp. crushed dried rosemary 2 tsp. garlic powder One 10- to 12-lb. turkey, spatchcocked (have your butcher do this), rinsed and patted dry

Kosher salt and black pepper 1/4

cup fresh blood orange juice

1. Spread the onion, celery and carrots in an even layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put a flat baking rack on top. In a small bowl, mix the pink peppercorns with the thyme, rosemary and garlic powder. 2. Brush the turkey all over with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the spice mixture all over the turkey. Set the bird breast side up on the rack and drizzle with the orange juice; let come to room temperature. 3. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450°. Roast the turkey for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, rotating the pan a few times, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inner thigh registers 165°; tent with foil if it browns too quickly. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 30 minutes. Discard the onion, celery and carrots. Carve the turkey and serve. WINE Crisp, elegant Cham-

pagne: NV Taittinger Brut La Française.

Fragrant Rice with Pepitas and Dates page 111 Active 15 min; Total 50 min Serves 10 to 12 3 cups basmati rice, rinsed well and drained 8 Medjool dates, pitted and diced (4 oz.) ½ tsp. ground allspice ½ tsp. ground cardamom Kosher salt 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup pepitas, toasted Parsley leaves, for garnish

In a large saucepan, combine the rice, dates, allspice, cardamom and 2 teaspoons of salt. Add 4½ cups of water and bring to a boil. Stir once, then cover and simmer over low heat until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Scatter the butter on top of the rice, cover and remove from the heat. Let steam for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and season with salt. Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the pepitas and parsley and serve hot or at room temperature. MAKE AHEAD The rice can be tented with foil and kept at room temperature for 2 hours.

I GREW UP IN A JAMAICAN HOUSEHOLD, SO BESIDES SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE AND TURKEY, MY MOM WOULD MAKE JERK CHICKEN, CURRY, AND RICE AND BEANS. THERE WAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE, AND I KEPT THAT GOING,” SAYS AYESHA. N O V E M B E R 2017

114

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

opposite: cast-iron pan by lodge; salad bowl by roost from modish; flatware by west elm; carving knife by zwilling j.a. henckels

While the Currys love to goof around, they clearly know how to get down to business. This year alone Ayesha debuted a new meal-kit service called Homemade; launched a line of cookware at Target (which she spent a year developing with kitchen-gear giant Meyer); and is about to open International Smoke, a globally ranging barbecue restaurant, with chef Michael Mina in San Francisco. “She’s balancing so many things, which gives me a new perspective about what I can do,” Stephen says. “She’s busier than I am on the regular and has so much energy for what she does—it really inspires me.”

coconut curry cornbread stuffing, p. 116

spatchcocked turkey with pink peppercorns and thyme

herb-crusted rack of lamb, p. 116

cranberry sauce with cointreau and star anise, p. 122

kale salad with baconâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; brown sugar vinaigrette

Pecan-and-MapleGlazed Salmon

¾ cup unsweetened coconut milk

Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 5 min Serves 10 to 12

½ stick unsalted butter, melted

Kosher salt and pepper ½ cup pure maple syrup 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard ½ cup pecans, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment and set the salmon on it, skin side down. Season with salt and pepper. 2. In a small bowl, mix the maple syrup with the butter and mustard. Drizzle the maple mixture on the salmon and sprinkle the pecans evenly on top, pressing to help them adhere. Bake the salmon for about 40 minutes, until medium within and the top is lightly caramelized. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Riley (left) and Ryan are helpful taste testers, especially when it’s Ayesha’s pumpkin ice cream.

Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb page 115 Total 1 hr; Serves 10 to 12 1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 racks of lamb, frenched (2 lbs. each) Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 tsp. honey 3/4

cup plain dry breadcrumbs

2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley 1 Tbsp. finely chopped mint leaves 1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 lb. cherry tomatoes, preferably on the vine

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Preheat a large cast-iron skillet, then heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in it. Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. In batches if necessary, add the lamb racks to the skillet, fat side down, and cook over

N O V E M B E R 2017

moderately high heat until browned, about 3 minutes. Turn the lamb fat side up and cook for 2 minutes longer. Transfer the lamb fat side up to a large rimmed baking sheet.

WINE Cherry-inflected Anderson Valley Pinot Noir: 2015 Migration.

Coconut Curry Cornbread Stuffing

2. In a small bowl, mix the mustard with the honey. In another small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs with the parsley, mint, rosemary, lemon zest, the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Brush the lamb with the honey mustard and coat with the breadcrumb mixture, pressing to help it adhere.

page 115 Active 40 min; Total 3 hr Serves 10 to 12 CORNBREAD

Coconut oil, for greasing 2 cups fine yellow cornmeal 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup sugar 2 Tbsp. baking powder 2 tsp. kosher salt

3. Roast the lamb for 15 minutes. Scatter the tomatoes around it and roast for 20 to 25 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 130° for mediumrare. Transfer the lamb to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut the racks into chops and serve with the tomatoes.

2 large eggs 2 cups unsweetened coconut milk 2/3

cup vegetable oil

STUFFING

2 cups vegetable stock or low-sodium broth 1 large onion, chopped (2 cups) 3 celery ribs, chopped (1½ cups)

WINE Full-bodied Napa Valley

Cabernet: 2014 Beaulieu Vineyard Rutherford.

Coconut oil, for greasing

1 tsp. Madras curry powder Kosher salt and pepper 4 oz. crustless sourdough bread, cubed (2½ cups)

1. Make the cornbread Preheat the oven to 400°. Grease a large cast-iron skillet with coconut oil. In a large bowl, whisk the cornmeal with the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the coconut milk and vegetable oil. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry until combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. 2. Bake the cornbread for 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool completely, then cut into 1-inch pieces. 3. Make the stuffing In a medium saucepan, combine the vegetable stock with the onion and celery and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat until the vegetables are tender, 10 minutes. Let cool. 4. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with coconut oil. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the coconut milk, melted butter, curry powder, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Add the cornbread and sourdough and mix well. Stir in the cooled stock and vegetables, then scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish. 5. Bake the stuffing for about 40 minutes, until set and the top is lightly browned. Let stand for 10 minutes; serve. NOTE Ayesha Curry often serves the stuffing with a quick chili butter. Mix 3 sticks softened butter with 3 Tbsp. chili powder and 1 teaspoon ground cumin; season with salt. MAKE AHEAD The unbaked stuffing can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before baking.

continued on p. 122

2 large eggs

116

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

opposite: bowl by prouna

One 3-lb. side of salmon

NO DOUBT AYESHA’S AMAZING CARAMEL BREAD PUDDING AND COCONUT CURRY CORNBREAD STUFFING HELPED TO PERSUADE THE COUPLE’S LARGELY NORTH CAROLINA–BASED FAMILIES TO MAKE THE TRIP TO CALIFORNIA.

rum-caramel bread pudding with no-churn pumpkin ice cream and candied pepitas, p. 124

from p. 101

HOW WE EAT NOW

The

New American Table

Breakfast Popcorn and Milk page 94 Total 25 min; Serves 4 2 Tbsp. good-quality pork lard ¼ cup popping corn Kosher salt Whole milk, maple syrup, diced apple, cinnamon and toasted nuts, for serving

1. In a large saucepan, combine the lard and popping corn. Cover and cook over moderately high heat until the corn starts to pop. Continue cooking, shaking the pan occasionally, until the corn stops popping, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, season with salt and let cool. 2. Transfer the popped corn to bowls. Serve with milk, maple syrup, apple, cinnamon and toasted nuts. —Kristin Kimball

Smashed-Banana Bread page 97 Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 10 min plus cooling; Makes one 9-inch loaf

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder, baking soda and salt. In another bowl, beat the eggs with the banana, sour cream, vanilla and banana liqueur until combined. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle or using a hand mixer, beat the 5 tablespoons of butter with the granulated sugar at medium speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. At low speed, gradually beat in the wet ingredients until incorporated, then beat in the dry ingredients until just combined; fold in the toasted pecans. 4. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake in the center of the oven for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool for 45 minutes, then turn the bread out onto the rack and let cool completely. Dust the top with confectioners’ sugar, cut into slices and serve with softened butter. —Gilda Bain-Pew

1½ cups all-purpose flour ¾ tsp. baking powder ¾ tsp. baking soda ¾ tsp. fine sea salt 2 large eggs 1½ cups smashed very ripe banana ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sour cream 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract ¾ tsp. banana liqueur or dark rum 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more for serving 1 cup granulated sugar Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease a 9-by5-inch metal loaf pan with nonstick spray and line the bottom with parchment paper, allowing 2 inches of overhang on the 2 long sides. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and toast for about 7 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Let cool.

N O V E M B E R 2017

MAKE AHEAD The seaweed soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat gently before serving.

Arctic Char with Soba and Green Beans page 105 Active 35 min; Total 50 min Serves 4 1 cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth 1/3

cup soy sauce

¼ cup honey 2 Tbsp. mirin Ice ½ lb. green beans, halved crosswise on a bias 8 oz. buckwheat soba noodles

Seaweed Soup Active 40 min; Total 2 hr Serves 8 to 10 1 oz. dried wakame seaweed 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. trimmed beef chuck, cut into ½-inch pieces Kosher salt and pepper 10 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil 2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

½ cup pecans, chopped

30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls. Garnish with sliced scallions and toasted sesame seeds and serve. —Sohui Kim

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil 5 radishes, thinly sliced 2 cups thinly sliced inner romaine leaves ½ cup torn basil leaves, plus small leaves for garnish 1 scallion, thinly sliced on the bias Kosher salt and pepper Four 4- to 5-oz. arctic char fillets 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. mirin Thinly sliced scallions and toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

1. In a medium bowl, cover the seaweed with 2 cups of warm water and let stand at room temperature until softened, about 20 minutes; drain. 2. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over high heat until shimmering. Add the beef and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned all over, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until very fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the drained seaweed and the sesame oil and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until sizzling, about 3 minutes. 3. Add 3 quarts of water to the saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the fish sauce, soy sauce, mirin, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the beef is very tender, about 1 hour and

118

1. In a small saucepan, combine the chicken stock, soy sauce, honey and mirin and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to a glaze, about 12 minutes. Let the glaze cool slightly. 2. Set up an ice bath. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the green beans until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to the ice bath to cool. Drain the greens beans well and pat them dry. 3. In the saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the soba until al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and cool under cold running water, then pat dry with paper towels. In a large bowl, toss the soba with the lime juice, sesame oil and 3 tablespoons of the glaze. Fold in the green beans, radishes, romaine, the 1/2 cup of basil and the sliced scallion and season with salt and pepper. continued on p. 120

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

The ultimate authority on whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in entertaining and design, can now be part of your home. Through comfortable easy living pieces you can celebrate a beautiful epicurean lifestyle in all the places you relax, eat, and entertain.

FOOD & WINE TM ESTATE COLLECTION FO R M O R E I N FO R M AT I O N EMAIL FOODANDWINEFURNITURE@LC.DIRECT O R CAL L 336 -821-2511

NEW AMERICAN TABLE from p. 118 arctic char continued 4. Season the arctic char with salt and pepper. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the grapeseed oil until shimmering. Add the fish, skin side down, and press gently with a spatula to flatten. Cook over moderately high heat until the skin is browned and crisp, about 4 minutes. Flip the fish and cook until medium within, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to plates. Spoon the soba salad alongside, garnish with basil and serve, passing the glaze at the table. —SK

WINE Crisp, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc: 2016

Honig Napa Valley.

Pork-and-Potato Curry page 102 Active 35 min Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1/3

cup finely chopped shallots

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

pork, cover partially and simmer over moderately low heat until the pork is nearly tender, about 25 minutes. Stir in the potatoes, cover partially and simmer until the pork and potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. 3. Stir the coconut milk and lime juice into the curry and bring to a boil. Season with salt. Discard the lime leaves. Garnish with cilantro, mint, Thai basil and sliced scallions and serve with steamed rice. —Katianna Hong WINE Full-bodied, spicy Gewürztraminer:

2016 Paul Blanck.

Late-Night Fried Chicken Active 2 hr Total 2 hr 15 plus overnight brining; Serves 8 BRINE

4 qts. water ½ cup kosher salt ¼ cup honey

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

¼ cup fresh lemon juice, plus 2 lemons, halved

1 Tbsp. finely grated fresh ginger

10 thyme sprigs

Kosher salt

10 sage sprigs

2 tsp. crushed red pepper

4 bay leaves

1 cup dry white wine

2 Tbsp. peppercorns

1½ cups pork or chicken stock 2 Tbsp. packed dark brown sugar 1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

Two 3-lb. chickens, cut into 8 pieces each FRIED CHICKEN

1 Tbsp. ground coriander

4 oz. foie gras terrine

2 tsp. ground cumin

1 Tbsp. minced parsley

fat into a fine sieve set over a small saucepan. Press on the solids to extract as much of the fat as possible. Discard the solids or reserve for another use. Stir the parsley, chives, minced sage, thyme and rosemary into the foie gras fat. Keep warm. 3. Lower the oven temperature to 200°. Drain the chicken and pat dry. Scrape off any herbs or peppercorns stuck to the skin. 4. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until very frothy. In another large bowl, whisk the matzo meal with the flour and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Dip the chicken pieces in the egg whites, letting the excess drip back into the bowl, then dredge in the flour mixture, pressing to help it adhere. Transfer the chicken to a large rimmed baking sheet lined with wax paper. 5. Set a rack on another large rimmed baking sheet. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 375°. Fry the chicken in 3 or 4 batches over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of each piece registers 160°, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to the rack to drain; keep warm in the oven. Add the sage leaves and chiles to the hot oil and fry until crisp, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer to paper towels to drain. 6. Transfer all of the fried chicken to a very large bowl. Add the warm foie gras mixture and toss to coat. Transfer to a large platter and garnish with the crispy sage and serranos. Serve right away. —Bruce and Eric Bromberg

1 tsp. ground turmeric

1 Tbsp. minced chives

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 tsp. minced sage, plus 15 large leaves

Domaine Faury Saint Joseph Blanc.

1 tsp. minced thyme

Four-Cheese Fondue

2 kaffir lime leaves 2 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces One 15-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Cilantro, mint, Thai basil and sliced scallions, for garnish Steamed rice, for serving

1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the shallots, jalapeño, garlic, ginger and a generous pinch of salt. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the crushed red pepper and cook for 30 seconds. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. 2. Add the stock, brown sugar, fish sauce, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and lime leaves and bring to a boil. Stir in the N O V E M B E R 2017

½ tsp. minced rosemary 6 large egg whites

WINE Rich Rhône Valley white: 2015

page 106 Total 30 min; Serves 8 to 10

¾ cup matzo meal

2 cups dry white wine

¾ cup all-purpose flour

2 tsp. cornstarch

Kosher salt and pepper Vegetable oil, for frying 2 serrano chiles, sliced ¼ inch thick

1. Brine the chicken In a very large bowl, whisk the water with the salt, honey and lemon juice until the salt dissolves. Add the halved lemons along with the thyme, sage, bay leaves and peppercorns. Submerge the chicken in the brine, cover and refrigerate overnight. 2. Make the fried chicken Preheat the oven to 300°. Put the foie gras terrine in a pie plate and bake until most of the fat is rendered and the foie gras is sizzling, about 15 minutes. Scrape the foie gras and any

120

1 garlic clove, minced Kosher salt 6 oz. Jarlsberg cheese, shredded (1½ cups) 6 oz. Emmental cheese, shredded (1½ cups) 6 oz. Gruyère cheese, shredded (1½ cups) ½ cup finely grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese 1 Tbsp. kirsch Rustic bread cubes and apple wedges, for serving continued on p. 122

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

p r o m ot i o n

fresh finds NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS AND MORE FROM FOOD & WINE’S PUBLISHER

←Venice Food & Wine Festival JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa May 3-6, 2018

Join us for the inaugural Venice Food & Wine Festival at the awardwinning JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. Savor exclusive epicurean events showcasing the finest Italian cuisine, wine and spirits, and Veneto tradition. Immerse yourself in cooking demos, interactive classes, and tastings—all in the company of internationally celebrated chefs and wine experts. For more information and tickets, visit

jwvenicefoodandwine.com #jwvenicefw #jwtreatment

→ It was an unforgettable evening at Otium

During a recent Inside Access from Chase event in Los Angeles, United MileagePlus® Cardmembers enjoyed dinner at Timothy Hollingsworth’s Otium with coveted seats at the chef’s table. To find out about more amazing events coming up soon, visit

InsideAccess.com

← Epicurean Bucketlist Event Authentic Latin Cuisine in a Tropical Resort Paradise

Casa Amate, the Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya restaurant concept, resembles the home of a traveler passionate about Latin culture, featuring intimate rooms, a glimmering central courtyard and striking artwork. The diverse menu offers flavorful cuisine inspired by Latin America.

andazmayakoba.com

Join Chef Eric Ripert and a few of his legendary friends for the 10th anniversary of Cayman Cookout. Enjoy an unforgettable weekend of food, wine, and natural beauty of the Caribbean presented by The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman and the Cayman Islands Department of Tourism. Tickets on sale now only at

CaymanCookout.com

Visit us online at foodandwine.com/promo/events for exciting sweepstakes, promotions and events. Follow us @foodandwine.

GIFTS Gourmet FOR THE

LUGGAGE FOR YOUR WINE Travel WITH your wine! Safe, Convenient, Economical

AMERICAN MADE KNIFE ART

thewinecheck.com

“Of all the knives I own, this is my best friend in the kitchen.” HUNTER LEWIS, EIC, FOOD AND WINE Fine tools for the culinary artist. Lifetime guaranteed. Visit us in Jackson Hole and Napa Valley.

BRINGING ITALY HOME

newwestknifeworks.com

Your source for the finest Italian ceramics all at excellent prices. Free Ship w/ code Italy thru 12/31/17

italianpottery.com

“A CULT FAVORITE AMONG CHEFS” ~ THE NEW YORK TIMES Grillworks makes the premier wood-fired grills for the culinary community. Favored by chefs all over the world for their versatility and beauty, these grills are also available for home live-fire purists. Make your outdoor kitchen the envy of the neighborhood - call us. 855-434-3473 • GrillworksUSA.com

HOW TO FIX YOUR FATIGUE Dr. Gundry reveals the top 3 common foods that you would have never guessed were the cause of your fatigue. Watch Now NewEnergy44.com

Costa Rica

COSTA RICA 9-DAYS $1295 Fully guided w/ all hotels, all meals, all activities. Tax, fees extra. FREE brochure: 1-800-CARAVAN

caravan.com TO ADVERTISE CALL JENNY AT MI INTEGRATED MEDIA 860-542-5180

SWEEP DREAMS® (BY MARIACHI IMPORTS) The original hand made brooms produced by hand in the mountains of Thailand. Each piece is hand dyed and woven into a unique keepsake that lasts a lifetime. Look for our signature lucky seeds-the sign of prosperity and health in the New Year! 855-620-0073 • MadMats.com www.foodandwine.com/shopnow

Valerie Bertinelli tells a story with each of her recipes.

DINNER AT THE CURRYS’ from p. 122

cranberry sauce

continued

In a large saucepan, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until the cranberries burst and the sauce is jamlike, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and discard the star anise sachet and zest. Let cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled.

Rum-Caramel Bread Pudding with No-Churn Pumpkin Ice Cream and Candied Pepitas page 117 Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 40 min Serves 10 to 12 CARAMEL

1½ cups sugar 1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped ¾ cup heavy cream 3 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cubed Pinch of kosher salt 3 Tbsp. dark rum BREAD PUDDING

Unsalted butter, for greasing 2 cups whole milk 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 2 cinnamon sticks 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Pinch of salt 4 large eggs

AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD

“Valerie may work as an actress but what she is, is a cook…and a damn fne one at that.” —Alton Brown

“When I turn the pages of this book, I feel as if I’ve been invited into Valerie’s home.” —Alex Guarnaschelli

Two 14-oz. brioche loaves, torn into 2-inch pieces No-Churn Pumpkin Ice Cream and Candied Pepitas (recipes follow), for serving

1. Make the caramel In a medium saucepan, mix the sugar, 1/4 cup of water, the lemon juice and vanilla bean and seeds. Cook over moderately high heat until the sugar is dissolved. Using a wet pastry brush, wash down any crystals from the side of the pan. Continue to cook, gently swirling the pan occasionally, until an amber caramel forms, about 10 minutes. 2. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully whisk in the cream, butter and salt until smooth; the caramel will bubble up. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to warm, about 1 hour. Discard the vanilla pod, then stir in the rum. 3. Make the bread pudding Preheat the oven to 400°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a small saucepan, combine the milk, brown sugar, cinnamon sticks, vanilla

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

MOST WANTED from p. 126 and salt. Bring just to a boil, them remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes; discard the cinnamon sticks. 4. In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the brioche and steeped milk and mix well. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish and drizzle 1 cup of the warm caramel on top. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until puffed and the top is golden. Serve warm with No-Churn Pumpkin Ice Cream, Candied Pepitas and the remaining caramel. MAKE AHEAD The unbaked bread pudding and caramel sauce can be refrigerated separately overnight. Bring the bread pudding to room temperature and drizzle with warmed caramel before baking.

Turkey Shwarma with Cabbage Salad Total 45 min; Serves 4 2 cups lightly packed cilantro, plus more for garnish ½ medium head of Little Gem lettuce 1 jalapeño, stemmed and chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 large garlic clove ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cumin ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt ½ cup finely diced green cabbage

No-Churn Pumpkin Ice Cream

¼ cup finely diced Persian cucumber

Total 30 min plus overnight freezing Serves 10 to 12

¼ cup finely diced celery

1 cup heavy cream One 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk ¾ cup pure pumpkin puree 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract ½ tsp. ground cinnamon Kosher salt

1. In a large chilled bowl, beat the heavy cream until stiff peaks form. In another large bowl, whisk the condensed milk with the pumpkin puree, vanilla, cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Fold one-third of the whipped cream into the pumpkin mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the rest until no streaks remain. 2. Scrape the ice cream into a chilled 9-by5-inch loaf pan. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface and freeze overnight before serving. MAKE AHEAD The ice cream can be frozen

for up to 3 days.

Candied Pepitas Total 20 min; Makes 1 cup 1 cup pepitas 2 Tbsp. sugar ¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon 1/8

tsp. cayenne Pinch of kosher salt

In a large skillet, mix the pepitas with the sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, cayenne and salt. Cook over moderate heat, stirring and tossing occasionally, until the pepitas are lightly browned and coated in a very light caramel, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool completely before serving. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish ½ Tbsp. finely chopped dill, plus more for garnish 2 Tbsp. shwarma seasoning 1 cup prepared hummus 2 large, soft lavash flatbreads, halved crosswise 1 lb. leftover skin-on turkey breast, thinly sliced 2 dill pickles, quartered lengthwise (optional)

1. In a food processor, combine the 2 cups of cilantro with the lettuce, jalapeño, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, the garlic, coriander and cumin and pulse until finely chopped. With the machine on, gradually add ¼ cup of the olive oil and puree until smooth. Scrape the zhug into a small bowl and season with salt. 2. In a medium bowl, toss the cabbage with the cucumber, celery, the remaining 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the 1 tablespoon of parsley and ½ tablespoon of dill. Season with salt. 3. In a small bowl, whisk the shwarma seasoning with the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of olive oil. 4. Spread 1/4 cup of the hummus on each lavash half. Top with the turkey, some of the zhug, the cabbage salad and, if desired, pickles. Drizzle with some of the shwarma oil and garnish with cilantro, parsley and dill. Roll up the sandwiches and serve with the remaining zhug and shwarma oil. WINE Spicy Israeli red: 2015 Recanati

Upper Galilee Shiraz.

125

United States Postal Service 2017 Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation 1. Publication Title: FOOD & WINE. 2. Publication Number: 0044-7890. 3. Filing Date: October 1, 2017. 4. Issue Frequency: monthly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $37.00. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. 9. Full Name and Complete Mailing Address of the Publisher, Chief Content Officer, and Editorial Director: Publisher: Time Inc., 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008; Rich Battista, President & CEO. Chief Content Officer: Alan Murray, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 102811008. Editorial Director: Nathan Lump, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008. 10. Owner: The owner is Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, New York 10281, which is a direct wholly-owned subsidiary of Southern Progress Corporation, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Homewood, AL 35209, an indirect wholly-owned subsidiary of Time Inc., 225 Liberty St., New York, New York 10281. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 percent or more of Total amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Securities: To the best knowledge of Time Inc., the names and addresses of stockholders beneficially owning 1 percent or more of the common stock of Time Inc. as of March 31, 2017 (according to 13F filings with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission) are as follows: BlackRock Fund Advisors, 400 Howard St., San Francisco, CA 94105-2228. Fairpointe Capital, LLC, 1 N. Franklin, #3300, Chicago, IL 60606. The Vanguard Group, Inc., 100 Vanguard Blvd., Malvern, PA 19355. Dimensional Fund Advisors, L.P. (U.S.), Palisades W. Bldg. One, 6300 Bee Cave Rd., Austin, TX 78746. Omega Advisors, 810 Seventh Ave., New York, NY 10019. State Street Global Advisors (SSgA), 1 Lincoln St., 27th Fl., Boston, MA 02111-2900. Thrivent Asset Management, LLC, 625 Fourth Ave. S., Minneapolis, MN 55415-1624. Renaissance Technologies, LLC 800 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022. Schroder Investment Management, LTD, 31 Gresham St., London, UK EC2V 7QA. J.P. Morgan Investment Management, Inc., 270 Park Ave., 8th Fl., New York, NY 10017. Bank of New York Mellon (BNY), 101 Barclay St., New York, NY 10007. Goldman Sachs Group, 200 West St., New York, NY 10282. Northern Trust Investments, Inc., 50 S. LaSalle St., 4th Fl. Chicago, IL 60603. Sammons Enterprise Group, 5949 Sherry Ln., #1900, Dallas, TX 75225. BNP Paribas, 525 Washington Blvd., #600, Jersey City, NJ 07310. Point72, 510 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10022. Norges Bank Investment Management (Norway), Bankplassen 2, P.O. BOX 1179, Sentrum, Oslo, Norway NO-0107. TIAA-CREF, 750 Third Ave., New York, NY 10017. Keeley Asset Management Corporation, 111 W. Jackson Blvd., #810, Chicago, IL 60604. Morgan Stanley, 1585 Broadway, New York, NY 10036. 12. Not Applicable. 13. Publication Title: Food & Wine Magazine. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2017. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: a. Total number of copies: 1,030,432. b. Paid circulation: 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 615,635. 2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0. 3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 31,331. 4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0. c. Total Paid Distribution: 646,966. d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 1. Free or Nominal Rate OutsideCounty Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 314,873. 2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. 3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0. 4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 7,465. e. Total Free or Nominal rate Distribution: 322,338. f. Total Distribution: 969,304. g. Copies not Distributed: 61,128. h. Total: 1,030,432. i. Percent Paid 66.7%. Number of Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: September 1, 2017. a. Total number of copies: 1,029,204. b. Paid circulation: 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 600,748. 2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0. 3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 26,831. 4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0. c. Total Paid Distribution: 627,579. d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 325,283. 2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. 3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0. 4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 5,309. e. Total Free or Nominal rate Distribution: 330,592. f. Total Distribution: 958,171. g. Copies not Distributed: 71,033. h. Total: 1,029,204. i. Percent Paid: 65.5%. 16. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the November 2017 issue of this publication. 17. Signature and date: Maria Beckett, SVP, Finance, 9/11/17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS In the event that we are unable to effect the delivery of your subscription to FOOD & WINE for any reason beyond our control, our obligation is limited to the resumption of your subscription when we are able to do so. If we remain unable to resume delivery within 24 calendar months from the date of interruption, we will have no further obligation under your subscription agreement.

RECIPE REQUEST

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

Discover delicious takes on the turkey sandwich at foodandwine.com /turkey-sandwiches.

Freestyle Wrap NO ONE ACCUSED Jenn Louis of being a cultural interloper while she was hand-rolling egg pasta at her restaurant Lincoln in Portland, Oregon. But when the 2012 F&W Best New Chef opened the Israeli-inspired Ray in the same space last year, some critics labeled her a decidedly nonkosher interpreter of Middle Eastern cuisine. “I don’t consider myself an expert on the cooking at all,” says Louis, who is Jewish-American. “But I prefer it that way because then I’m not hemmed in.” Take her favorite shwarma preparation (p. 125), which uses N O V E M B E R 2017

oven-roasted turkey. “Israelis usually shave off meat that’s grilling on a vertical spit, but I don’t have one,” explains the chef, who drizzles her turkey slices with shwarma oil (spiced with an addictive blend of coriander, turmeric, cinnamon and cumin) before tucking the meat into soft lavash along with a crunchy Israeli cabbage salad. For brightness, she adds fiery lettuce zhug, based on the Yemeni hot sauce. “At Ray, the food isn’t about Christian, Jewish or Arab,” Louis adds. “It casts a wider net.” 3808 N. Williams; raypdx.com. —JANE SIGAL 126

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: con poulos; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. plate by miro made this

MOST WANTED

Forget rooftop bars. Air travel engineered around you

Experience a flight that transforms ordinary into exceptional: An atmosphere as tranquil as a rooftop bar that encourages optimal relaxation. Enticing cuisine served in the style of a fine restaurant with an impressive view above the clouds. A spacious office, with high-speed Wi-Fi and diverse entertainment options. Refresh, dine, work, delight, sleep: the choice is always yours.

LH.com