iceland
guac Special Issue Spring 2019
Hungry? Not Your Typical Hot Dog
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Friðheimar
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For the traveling coffee lover
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Adventure Time! Northern Lights
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Rushing Water and a Rainbow: The Wonder of Seljalandsfoss Falls
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Gullfoss
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Geysir
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Hallgrímskirkja
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Spontaneous Stops
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Kerið
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Seyðisfjörður Harbor
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Take a Break Skálholt Cathedral
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Relax in the Blue Lagoon, a Luxurious Geothermal Spa
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Bíó Paradís
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Hungry?
Not Your Typical Dog Dana Chan
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Given that Iceland is a tiny island and is pretty cold most of the time (farming is difficult), it’s not surprising that food is expensive. Between almost everything having to be imported, and… well, almost everything having to be imported, I knew that to save money, I should do the only logical thing: pack a suitcase full of food.
one I tried was after a boat tour in Stykkishólmur on the northern coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. From the pure visual aspect, it looked like a regular hot dog but had a brown sauce on top instead of ketchup or mustard. The hot dog itself is a mixture of pork, beef, and Icelandic lamb. Upon the first bite, there was something crunchy between the dog and the bread, which I later found out was crispy fried onions. Accompanying the crunch was the brown sauce, pylsusinnep, a sweet brown mustard and remoulade, a sauce made of mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs.
My brother’s friends had traveled to Iceland a couple months before us and raved about two things - the northern lights and icelandic hot dogs. Since we went in the summer when the lights were not visible, I guess we would take up the hot dog recommendation. But if there’s one thing you should know about me, it’s that I strongly dislike hot dogs. Hearing people say marvelous things about hot dogs baffles me. Like… what? But hey, I was going to Iceland and I heard that they were cheap relative to other food so on the occasion that I didn’t feel like eating a bag of goldfish or a granola bar, I thought I’d give them a shot.
After, I had others in Vík and Strandakirkja. I discovered the importance of fast food in icelandic culture. There was a stand in Reykjavík that I wish I had called ‘Bæjarins Beztu Pylsurthis’ which literally translates to “Best Hot Dogs in Town.” Although all the hot dogs were essentially the same, some had a little twist to them to add some flare (one had fritos in it!).
I didn’t research anything about the dogs prior to the trip and honestly thought they were going to be the same as they were back in America. Like home, hot dogs are street food in Iceland, with little stands off the side of the road and near big tourist attractions. The first
To my surprise, I ate three Icelandic hot dogs throughout my trip and barely got halfway through my suitcase of snacks and goodies. To this day, I still strongly dislike hot dogs, but Icelandic ones? I’ll make an exception.
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Friðheimar Katie Satterthwaite Traveling the Golden Circle is a long day of sightseeing, so if you’re searching for a place to eat besides the cafÊs at the attractions, Fridheimar is an excellent choice. It is a tomato farm and restaurant. The restaurant is inside the greenhouse, where you dine among the tomato plants. They also have a short presentation/tour about their horticulture practices at the farm. One important note that we are not aware of, is that you must make a reservation if you want to sit down and eat at the restaurant. However, we are able to order at the bar so we get a cup of tomato soup and a freshly baked loaf of bread. It is incredibly tasty and satisfying, particularly on a cold day. Fridheimar also has horses right outside of the restaurant, so be sure to stop by and pet them.
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For the traveling coffee lover Zoe Hauser
While talking with locals, I learn that coffee is an Icelandic staple; Iceland is the world’s fourth-largest per capita coffee consumer! As a coffee lover myself, it is my mission to find the island’s best coffee shops. In Reykjavik, I discover Reykjavik Roasters - Kárastígur, a cute, minimalist café with amazing specialty coffees and fresh, homemade pastries. While located a bit away from the downtown, the café and the surrounding neighborhood are quaint and quiet, a little peek into the local city-goers lifestyle. The huge windows make it a great place to people-watch, and there’s even an outside sitting area just across the street, where you can take in the city’s peaceful and colorful vibes. The specialty lattes and cappuccinos are artisan, hand-crafted drinks made by the most welcoming, pleasant staff who work to make the café a truly enjoyable experience for their customers. When in need of coffee, Reykjavik Roasters is the place to go!
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Adventure Time!
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Northern Lights by Teresa Liang hours of watching the stars twinkling, we began to see the lights. They started out looking like a cloud, but then quickly began to glow— green with flares of purple. With twinkling stars complementing the purple and green hues, suddenly, the past two hours in the howling wind didn’t seem so bad. A recommendation for those trying to photograph the lights: bring a tripod. You need to adjust the shutter speed of your camera in order to capture the lights, requiring you to stay perfectly still for around 20 seconds despite the wind attempting to push you over. I may have started off my night with little hope, but proven by my experience, don’t be discouraged to go aurora hunting, even if the forecast doesn’t seem promising!
My second day in Iceland was the only night during my trip with a promising forecast for the northern lights. Given that the northern lights are such a major part of the attraction to Iceland, I wasn’t feeling very lucky looking at the low forecast. The southeast coast of the island is home to the small city of Höfn where my group chose to spend the night at a hostel. The hostel I was staying at was miles away from city lights, and therefore had very little light pollution. The forecast showed clear clouds starting at 10pm, but the northern lights forecasting was at only a 2.0kp, which measures the power and intensity of the solar winds that cause the northern lights. With little hope, we stepped out onto a little hill outside our hostel, and stood watching the clouds. After around two
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Rushing Water and a Rainbow: The Wonder of Seljalandsfoss Falls
I make my way up the path to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, as sounds of cascading water echo all around. I am unsure whether I should continue to walk, but friends encourage me to hike behind the falls, only a short ten minute hike. The next steps lead me to a truly stunning sight. I crouch in a cave behind the waterfall and look out over the island’s immense, beautiful countryside, as the falls act as a lens filtering the sunlight. I run up to the end of the rocks and peer out, feeling the sheer force and strength of this natural wonder. As I throw my arms up into the air and spin around, I feel myself fully breathe for the first time in so long, so much that I don’t realize that I am completely drenched. Soaked, yet smiling, I take one last look at these falls and run down the path. Mist rises from the falls and filters up through the rocks and crevices, as a sense of calm overwhelms me. When I turn around, the sun begins to shine and shades of red, yellow, and purple filter into the cave; a rainbow forms! With the sound of rushing water, the bright and vibrant rainbow, and the island greenery, alive and glowing with the sunlight, Seljalandsfoss provides a stunning peek into Iceland’s natural wonders.
by Zoe Hauser
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Gullfoss by Katie Satterthwaite The Golden Circle is a 230-kilometer route that makes a loop through the southern region of Iceland. It’s a popular tourist attraction containing incredible natural sights like waterfalls, a geothermal area, and a national park. The Golden Circle allows you to create your own adventure; you can choose to skip certain sights and add additional detours. It’s especially fun to rent a car and drive the route yourself, but there are also commercial tours available. One of the most iconic stops is Gullfoss, or “Golden Waterfall.” When we visit this site, it is quite crowded, as much of the Golden Circle was, and has probably the coldest and strongest winds I have ever experienced in my life. But, it is absolutely breathtaking. This unique natural wonder contains two levels of falls, with the smaller of the two flowing into the larger one. The roar of the falls is almost deafening. While there’s not a whole lot to do at a waterfall besides admire it and snap some pictures, Gullfoss contains several different viewing points of the falls. Additionally, there’s a gift shop with lots of cute Icelandic memorabilia. While only a quick stop, it is such a special sight, making us realize that Iceland contains some of nature’s greatest phenomena.
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Geysir by Katie Satterthwaite
Geysir is a geothermal area along the Golden Circle, about a ten-minute drive from Gullfoss. The scenic views along this ten-minute drive are so extraordinarily breathtaking that we get so excited, and stall our car on a one-way bridge. Geysir is also very congested, as it is another main attraction along the Golden Circle. The two big things to see at this location are the geyser, Strokkur, and the steam pools. Strokkur erupts about every five minutes, so you can stand around with your phone at the ready for when it does explode. More specifically, I highly recommend standing precisely where the warm steam and water droplets rain down on you for a more interactive experience. Around the geyser are several steam pools that you can explore and warm up your lower limbs. Geysir is much more open than Gullfoss so you can wander around the area and escape some of the tour group congestion. There is a gift shop and café at this location as well, but we do not go in because of how busy it is. It’s not every day you get to witness a waterfilled hole in the ground spontaneously shoot a jet of boiling water eighty feet into the air, so this is a stop you don’t want to miss.
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Hallgrímskirkja by Katie Satterthwaite Hallgrimskirkja is at the heart of Reykjavik, with sloping colorful streets on either side of it. We visit the church three separate times, as we pass by it often when walking around downtown Reykjavik. It seems to have a dense, protective presence over the city. You get a feeling of deep reverence every time you enter the church. The pictures of the outside alone are worth the trip. We go inside the church and get to light a candle. I recommend verifying the opening hours, as we arrive at the church just five minutes before closing. On our last full day in Iceland, we decide to go up to the top of the tower in Hallgrimskirkja. Admission to the tower costs 1000 ISK ($8.25), and has separate operating hours from the church. However, the top of the tower provides the best bird’s-eye view of all of Reykjavik. The city is full of vibrant rooftops, and you can see the Atlantic Ocean, as well as neighboring mountains. This is a must-do whether you’re staying in Reykjavik for the week, or just passing through.
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Spontaneous Stops by Katie Satterthwaite I would strongly recommend going to Iceland with an open mind, and a free schedule. We planned very little of our trip besides our Airbnb, and our rental car. This meant that each day was shaped by the locals that we met, who gave us recommendations of sights to see and places to eat. That’s why I believe that having a rental car was absolutely integral to our experience. There are two ways to experience the natural wonders Iceland has to offer; you can travel around the entire country, staying in a different place each night, or you can create a home base, and do day trips from there. We chose to do the latter, which meant we needed a rental car. A few notes about renting a car in Iceland; many of the rentals are manual cars (they’re also cheaper), and gas is insanely
expensive. However, driving through the country on our own was my favorite part because it felt much more intimate. Iceland felt like our playground. We saw a beautiful view, and were able to pull off to the side of the road to investigate. My most memorable experiences were the impulsive stops we would make to see something up close. Along the Golden Circle route, there are infinite places to do this. One of the things we had really hoped to see was wild Icelandic horses. After our last stop of the day, we began our journey home and on the way, we saw these horses on the side of the road. We pulled over and petted them horses in a field, against the backdrop of snow covered mountains. This experience was surreal.
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Kerið by Katie Satterthwaite
If you’re looking to avoid the tour groups that populate some of the bigger attractions on the Golden Circle, there are several additional stops that you can choose to add along your route that are much less crowded, and offer varying unique experiences. Our first stop is at Kerid, which is a caldera, or giant volcanic crater. There is a path that runs along the entire rim of the crater, and a path that leads down into the crater and around the edges of the lake which sits at the bottom. I recommend walking the circumference and then going down to the lake’s edge, though you want wear sturdy shoes. Additionally, the wind along the crater’s edge is merciless, so show exposed skin at your own risk. It is important to note that there is an entrance fee of 400 ISK ($3) that goes towards maintaining the crater. This sight is particularly empty which is astounding as it remains one of the most unique natural sights I have ever seen. The Kerid crater is an absolute must-see.
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Seyðisfjörður Harbor by Danyal Motiwalla Old Hospital, a beautifully renovated building with gorgeous views of the valley. After setting our luggage down, we set off to climb a nearby hill in search of the famous Tvisongur Sound Sculpture, a series of interconnected stone igloos built by German artist Lukas Kühne. Depending on where you stood, produced sound could result in the listener hearing echoes of different frequencies. After having some fun, I stood on the hill, marveling at the view as the sun began to dip below the mountains. I wondered for a moment if I had stepped into the beautifully illustrated book. The simple beauty of this town seemed too surreal to be true.
We’d been driving for a couple of hours through a mountain pass in the middle of a merciless snowstorm. Visibility was so poor that cars were just inching along when suddenly, our view began to clear up. Emerging around a bend in the winding road, we finally had our first glimpse of Seyðisfjörður Harbor. Located in the northeast corner of Iceland, the small town of Seyðisfjörður lay beside a beautiful fjord of the Norwegian Sea. The picturesque town was almost dreamlike, with small, colorful cottages dotting the water’s edge. We stayed the night at HI Hostel’s Hafaldan
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Take a Break
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Skálholt Cathedral by Katie Satterthwaite If you’re interested in history, Skálholt Church is a great stop along the Golden Circle, and only twenty minutes from the crater. It is a historic site, as Skalholt was the most influential political hub of 11th century Iceland. There are several signs around the outside of the church where you can read about the center of life that Skálholt once was. The church has beautiful stained glass windows and an exhibition in a crypt, where you can visit to learn more about the church’s
history, and see the first edition of the Icelandic bible. However, entrance to the crypt costs a small fee. When we visited, we were the only two people there, which added to the feeling of awe at this historical landmark.
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Relax in the Blue Lagoon, a Luxurious Geothermal Spa by Zoe Hauser As steam rises off the water, I step into the warm, inviting Blue Lagoon. The water is warm but not too hot, and it is a beautiful, aquamarine shade. A great spot for a relaxing break, this wonder is located only 45 minutes away from the island’s capital. The lagoon is mwade of volcanic rock, and its geothermal waters are supplied by a nearby geothermal power station. Saunas and hot tubs surround the lagoon, and there’s even a swim-up bar located in the middle of the water, which offers natural, healthy drinks, as well as alcoholic beverages. The clay that lines the lagoon is known to have skin- healing qualities, and your entry payment includes a clay mask filled with silica and other natural minerals that can help to rejuvenate and revitalize your skin. Just make sure not to dip your hair into the lagoon because the minerals can dry it out. Although I visited early in the morning, I’ve been told that the spa during sunset hours is truly stunning: it becomes a site of contrasting reds, blues, and yellows. Be sure to buy your entrance passes in advance as the lagoon sells out quickly!
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Bíó Paradís by Katie Satterthwaite If you’re staying in Reykjavik and looking for a relaxing activity on a rainy day, consider going to Bíó Paradís. It’s an art house cinema in the center of the city and it highlights Icelandic documentaries and films that you won’t find anywhere else. It has very indie vibes, with a café/bar, and an artsy lobby with lots of seating. It is also the location of the Reykjavik International Film Festival. We saw an Icelandic movie called Andið eðlilega (“And Breathe Normally”) which had English subtitles. It was a riveting film and the production was incredibly gripping. The cinema also had great popcorn. We felt like this experience gave us more of an insight into Icelandic culture, which we enjoyed greatly. Tickets are quite expensive (as is the rest of Iceland) at 1800 ISK, or $15.
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Issue Writers ZOE HAUSER is a sophomore from San Rafael, California studying French and History. Her favorite city is the island of Capri just off the Amalfi Coast of Italy for its sparkling blue waters and lemon-scented way of life. KATIE SATTERTHWAITE is a senior from Edina, Minnesota studying HBHS. Her favorite city is Breckenridge, Colorado for the shared passion to be outside exploring nature, regardless of season. DANYAL MOTIWALLA is from Singapore and is a senior studying Economics. His favourite city is Istanbul because of its unique position as a bridge connecting East and West, as well as Christianity and Islam, evident in the city’s architecture, cuisine and culture. DANA CHAN is a sophomore from Long Island, New York studying Industrial and Labor Relations. Her favorite city is Cape Town, South Africa for its amazing mountains, beaches, wildlife, and sunsets. TERESA LIANG hails from the glorious city of Los Angeles and is currently a junior Hotelie. While she loves traveling, she has yet to find her favorite city, but hopes to settle down there when she finally does find it. STEPHANIE ROH is a senior from Weehawken, New Jersey and her favorite city is Copenhagen. She adores their design and architecture scene, fashion brands (Stine Goya!), sourdough bread, elderflower juice, and most of all cycling!
Editor-in-Chief Zeyu Hu Content Director Zoe Hauser Creative Director Tatr Assakul Iceland Design Team Chloe Tsui Muffin Laosirichon Jocelyn Pang
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