The Shetland Trader-Book Two

The Shetland Trader patterns by Gudrun

Johnston

book two photography by Kathy Cadigan

The Shetland Trader patterns by Gudrun

Johnston

book two photography by Kathy Cadigan

Š2014 Gudrun Johnston Photographs Š 2014 Kathy Cadigan All rights reserved. The contents of this book including the patterns are for personal use only. No part of this book may be reproduced, distributed or sold in any form without the prior permission of the copyright holders.

Author/Designer Gudrun Johnston Photography Kathy Cadigan Graphic Design Carrie Hoge Technical Editor Heather Zoppetti Stylist Mary Jane Mucklestone Models Ella Gordon and Vivian Ross-Smith For Technical support please contact gudruncjohnston@gmail.com A complimentary ebook is provided with the purchase of the print book.

If you have not received your ebook please contact gudruncjohnston@gmail.com

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foreword Shetland stories always include several things: a particular sense of place, a historical past that’s living in the present, a landscape that shapes everything, and with the Shetlanders that live in this special place. And, of course, family looms large.

In the case of this collection, the place is the location for the photoshoot, Belmont House. Last year Mary Jane Mucklestone and I were researching possible accommodations for our Grand Shetland Adventure trips. We paid a visit to Belmont House on Unst, the northern most of the Shetland Isles. Although it turned out not to be suitable for the purposes of our group, I was so impressed with the beautiful interior and grounds that I immediately knew I wanted it to be the backdrop for my next knitwear collection.

This 18th century home had fallen into a state of ruin at the point at which a small group of Shetland residents purchased it from the owner for a mere ÂŁ5! Thirteen years (and over a million pounds worth of investment) later, the Belmont Trust have lovingly restored this beautiful home to its former glory, retaining many of its original features. Even the paint was made to match the particular shades of the original walls.

The color palette of Belmont House is a reflection of the natural world outside its walls and was a big inspiration as I put together this collection. I frequently found myself looking up interior photos from the website to inform my choice of yarn colors. Each room in the house provided opportunities for beautiful and classic settings in which to photograph the knitwear. Although the majority of the images were taken inside, we did of course venture outside, enticed by the endless summer twilight and the atmospheric Shetland vistas.

As with the first collection, all of the designs give a nod towards my Shetland roots and offer a variety of complexity and style. As has become one of my signatures, you will see several examples where I have used lace in a contemporary way. A new to me Shetland Lace pattern can be found in Belmont and the Hermaness Hats. Credit for this pattern goes to a Shetland lady, Zena Thomson, who came up with this after accidentally tweaking a commonly used lace (new shell). I loved it so much I used it twice! Haroldswick (my first stole pattern) actually features a Spanish lace pattern in the center that fits well amongst the commonly used garter stitch

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background seen in Shetland Lace. You will also see some classic Shetland Lace patterns in Balta and Snarravoe. Alongside the lace designs you will find a wee bit of Fair Isle this time. These colorwork designs range from the simplest of peerie patterns in Burrafirth to a more traditional Fair Isle yoke in Nikka Vord to an all over Fair Isle pattern that only uses 3 colors in Northdale and back to a simple use of color mixing in the slip stitch pattern seen in Sandwick.

Shetland yarns feature heavily too. You will see several yarns from Jamieson & Smith, a Shetland company that I have come to know well over the last few years and who have been particularly supportive of my work. I also wanted to include something from two of the other wool producing companies in Shetland, Jamieson’s and Shetland Organics, both producers of quality yarns that are pleasure to knit with. Seeing as I’m now a dual citizen of the UK and the US I couldn’t leave out two of my favorite American yarn companies, Brooklyn Tweed and Quince & Co, both of which I have worked with many, many times.

I was fortunate to have two gorgeous Shetland lassies, Ella and Vivian, as my models. They grew up together in Shetland. They share a genuine love and pride for this place they call home. They are Shetland, so who better to model a collection so specifically inspired by it?

This book, of course, is the product of a collaboration with lots of wonderful people: the talented lady behind the lens, Kathy, the beautiful (and patient) models, Ella and Vivian, the always jolly and helpful Mary Jane and the rest of my extended family, who provided camaraderie, entertainment and delicious food!

I hope you find things to love in this collection. It’s special to me in more ways than I can explain. For me, knitting has become a way to reconnect with the remote island chain on which I was born. Every design takes me home, brings me closer to the people and culture, traditions and landscape of Shetland. Each design is a continuation of family tradition that began before me and that, hopefully, will go on after me. Thank you, very much, for sharing that with me.

And happy knitting!

Gudrun 9

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the knits 11

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Burrafirth

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Balta

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Haroldswick

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Snarravoe

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Belmont

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Hermaness Hats

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Northdale

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Nikka Vord

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Sandwick

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the patterns

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BURRAFIRTH Sizes 31 ½ (34 ½, 37, 40, 43, 46¾, 49 ¾)"/ 80 (87.5, 94, 101.5, 109, 118.5, 126.5) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 2-3 inches of positive ease Shown in size 37 inches with 3 inches of positive ease Needles US 3/3.25mm 16-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm 16, 24, and 32-inch circular needles US 4/3.5mm set of dpn’s or long circular (if working magic loop for sleeves) Yarn Fingering weight yarn in the following amounts: 1096 (1200, 1270, 1390, 1496, 1626, 1740) yards of MC, 70 (76, 80, 88, 94, 102, 110) yards of CC1, 82 (90, 95, 104, 112, 122, 130) yards of CC2, and 94 (102, 108, 118, 126, 138, 148) yards of CC3 Shown in Jumper Weight by Jamieson & Smith (100% Real Shetland Wool; 129yd [118m]/25g) Shade 202 (MC), Shade 1284 (CC1), Shade 78 (CC2), Shade 27 (CC3) Notions Stitch markers Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holders (for holding live sts) Gauge 26 sts and 36 rows= 4 inches in Stockinette st on US 4/3.5mm needle Construction This sweater is worked in one piece from the top down with a circular yoke. Sleeves and body are separated at the underarm. Short rows are used to shape the lower body.

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BALTA Sizes 32 ¼ (35 ¾, 39, 42 ¼, 45 ¾, 49, 52 ¼, 55 ¾)"/ 82 (91, 99, 107.5, 116, 124.5, 132.5, 141.5) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 1-2 inches of negative ease Shown in size 32 ¼" with 2 ¾ inches of negative ease Needles US 2/3mm 24-inch circular needle US 2/3mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if you prefer using magic loop) US 4/3.5mm 32-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm 16-inch circular needle US 6/4mm 16-inch circular needle Yarn Fingering weight yarn in the following amounts: 830 (915, 994, 1078, 1164, 1248, 1334, 1412) yards Shown in Sparrow by Quince & Co (100% organic linen; 168yd [155m]/50g) “Blue Spruce” Notions Stitch markers Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holders (for holding live sts) Crochet Hook US D3/3.25mm One ½-inch Button Gauge 24 sts and 28 rows= 4 inches in Stockinette st on US 4/3.5mm 25 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in Lace Pattern on US 4/3.5mm I recommend making a relatively large swatch, and washing and drying it to get an accurate gauge in linen Construction The front and back are worked from the bottom up as separate pieces and seamed together at the sides. Short rows are used to shape the lower body.

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HAROLDSWICK Size Approx 64 ½-inches in length and 10 ½-inches in width Needles US 6/4mm 16-inch circular needle US 6/4mm 24-inch circular needle US 6/4mm 40-inch circular needle Yarn 675 yards of laceweight yarn Shown in Shetland Supreme 2ply Laceweight by Jamieson & Smith (100% Real Shetland Wool; 219 yd [200m]/25g) in “white” Notions Stitch markers (optional) Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Gauge 27 sts and 30 rows= 4 inches in Madeira Mesh Lace on US 6/4mm needle 27 sts and 34 rows= 4 inches in garter stitch on US 6/4mm needle Construction This stole is worked in two halves and then grafted together in the middle. The edging is knit first and then stitches are picked up along the top of the edging to work the center of the stole. Once the two pieces are grafted together stitches are then picked up down each vertical edge and a picot bind-off is worked to finish.

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SNARRAVOE Sizes 34 ½ (37, 39 ¼, 42, 44 ½, 46 ¼, 49 ¾, 52 ¼)" / 87.5 (94, 99.5, 106.5, 113, 117.5, 126.5, 132.5) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 1-2 inches of positive ease Shown in size 37 inches with 2 inches positive ease Needles US 7/4.5mm 24-inch circular needle US 9/5.5mm 24-inch circular needle US 9/5.5mm 32-inch circular needle US 9/5.5mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if using magic loop for sleeves) Yarn Aran weight yarn in the following amounts: 802 (862, 926, 986, 1044, 1086, 1162, 1222) yards Shown in Aran Weight by Jamieson & Smith (100% Real Shetland Wool; 98 yards/50g) Notions 17 Stitch markers-8 raglan seam markers, 4 markers to separate lace panels on front and back, 4 markers to separate side lace panels and 1 BOR marker Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holders (for holding live sts) Gauge 21 sts and 22 rnds =4 inches in Twisted Rib on US 9/5.5mm needle 18 sts and 22 rnds=4 inches over Lace and Rib panel on US 9/5.5mm needle 15 sts and 22 rnds=4 inches in Faggoting St pattern on US 9/5.5mm needle Construction This garment is worked from the top down in one piece using a raglan construction. Sleeves and body are separated at the underarm.

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BELMONT Sizes 30 ¾ (33, 35 ¼, 37 ½, 39 ¾, 42, 44 ¼, 46 ½)"/78 (84, 89.5, 95.5, 101, 106.5, 112.5, 118) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 0-1 inches of negative ease Shown in size 33 inches with 1 inch of negative ease Needles US 3/3.25mm 24-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm 16-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm 32-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm set of dpn’s or long circular (if working magic loop for sleeves) Yarn Fingering weight yarn in the following amounts: 795 (860, 910, 968, 1028, 1092, 1150, 1210) yards Shown in Shetland Heritage by Jamieson & Smith (100% Real Shetland Wool; 120yd [110m]/25g) in “Moss Green” Notions Stitch markers-4 in one color and 4 in another color Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holder (for holding live sts) Eight ½-inch Buttons Gauge 27 sts and 35 rows= 4 inches in Stockinette Stitch on US 4/3.5mm needles 30 sts and 35 rows =4 inches in Lace Pattern on US 4/3.5mm needles 33 sts and 36 rows=4 inches in Twisted Rib pattern on US 4/3.5mm needles To account for the difference in gauge between the lace and Stockinette fabrics, stitch counts for the fronts and back will be different Construction This cardigan is worked in one piece from the bottom up.

Fronts and back are then divided at the underarm and worked separately. After the shoulders have been joined stitches are then picked up around the armscythe and short rows are worked to shape the sleeve cap. Buttonbands are worked at the same time as body.

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HERMANESS HATS Sizes Slouch Hat: 18 ¾-inch circumference at brim; 9-inches tall from brim to crown Beret: 19-inch circumference at brim; 8 ½-inches tall from brim to crown; 10-inch diameter at widest point Needles US 2/3mm 16-inch circular needle US 2/3mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if prefer using magic loop) US 3/3.25mm 16-inch circular needle (if making the beret version) US 3/3.25mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if prefer using magic loop) Yarn Fingering weight yarn in the following amounts: 240 yards (Slouch Hat); 250 yards (Beret) Shown in Loft by Brooklyn Tweed (100% American TargheeColumbia Wool; 275 yards/50g) in “Button Jar” (Slouch Hat) and “Sap” (Beret) Notions Stitch markers Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Gauge 27 sts and 46 rnds= 4 inches in ribbed pattern on US 2/3mm needle 34 sts and 40 rnds=4 inches in lace pattern on US 2/3mm needle (Slouch Hat) 31 sts and 40 rnds= 4 inches in lace pattern on US 3/3mm needle (Beret) Construction Both of these hats begin at the brim with ribbing and are knit bottom up with crown shaping.

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NORTHDALE Sizes 29 (31 ½, 34, 36 ¾, 39 ¼, 41 ¾, 44 ½, 47, 49 ½, 52 ¼)" 73.5 (80, 86.5, 93.5, 99.5, 106, 113, 119.5, 125.5, 132.5) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 0-1 inch of negative ease Shown in Size 34 with 0 inches of ease and again in Size 34 with 1 inch of negative ease Needles US 2/3mm 24-inch circular needle US 3/3.25mm 32 or 40-inch circular needle US 3/3.25mm set of dpn’s or long circular (if working magic loop for sleeves) US 4/3.5mm 32 or 40-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm set of dpn’s or long circular (if working magic loop for sleeves) Yarn Fingering Weight Yarn in the following amounts: 454 (494, 532, 575, 614, 654, 696, 736, 774, 818) yards of MC, 334 (364, 394, 424, 454, 482, 514, 542, 572, 604) Yards of CC1, and 248 (268, 290, 314, 336, 356, 380, 402, 422, 446) yards of CC2.

Shown in Loft by Brooklyn Tweed (100% American Targhee-Columbia Wool; 275 yards/50g) Artifact (MC), Hayloft (CC1), Woodsmoke (CC2) Button Jar (MC), Faded Quilt (CC1), Sap (CC2) Notions Stitch markers Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holders (for holding live sts) Gauge 31 sts and 33 rnds=4 inches in Fair Isle pattern in the rnd on US 4/3.5mm needle needle 29 sts and 40 rnds= 4 inches in 1x1 rib pattern on US 3/3.25mm needle needle Construction This garment is worked from the bottom up in one piece uniting the sleeves and body at underarm and working the yoke using a modified Raglan construction. A very short steek is worked at the neckline to allow for front neck shaping.

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NIKKA VORD Sizes 29 ¾ (32, 34 ¼, 36 ¼, 38 ½, 40 ¾, 43, 45, 47 ¼, 49 ½)" / 75.5 (81.5, 87, 92, 98, 103.5, 109, 114.5, 120, 125.5) cms at chest Recommended to be worn with approx 1-2 inches of positive ease Shown in size 36 ¼ inches with 1 ¼ inch of positive ease Needles US 6/4mm 32-inch circular needle US 6/4mm 24-inch circular needle US 6/4mm 16-inch circular needle US 6/4mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if using magic loop for sleeves) US 4/3.5mm 32-inch circular needle US 4/3.5mm set of dpn’s or long circular needle (if using magic loop for sleeves) Yarn DK weight yarn in the following amounts: 760 (816, 880, 925, 982, 1040, 1100, 1150, 1204, 1262) yards of MC, 40 (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68) yards of CC1, 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90, 94, 98) yards of CC2, CC3 and CC4, 120 (128, 138, 145, 154, 163, 172, 180, 189, 198) yards of CC5.

Shown in Double Knitting by Jamieson’s (100% Shetland Wool; 82 yards/25g) Mooskit (MC), Sholmit (CC1), Shaela (CC2), Moorit (CC3), Mogit (CC4), Oyster (CC5) Notions Stitch markers Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Waste yarn or stitch holder (for holding live sts) Gauge 22 sts and 32 rnds = 4 inches in Stockinette st on US 6/4mm 24 sts and 28 rnds = 4 inches in Fair Isle Pattern on US 6/4mm 22 sts and 32 rnds= 4inches in Corrugated Ribbing on US 6/4mm

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Construction This garment is worked from the bottom up in one piece.

Sleeves and body are united at the underarm to work the yoke. A few short rows are worked at the back neck to add a little height.

SANDWICK Size 43-inches long and 8-inches wide Needles US 4/3.5mm 16 or 20-inch circular needle A 2nd 16 or 20-inch circular in same size or 1 size smaller than above (for grafting the two ends of cowl together) Yarn Fingering weight yarn in the following amounts: 86 yards of Color A, 160 yards of Color B, 160 yards of Color C, 160 yards of Color D, 160 yards of Color E, 86 yards of Color F. Shown in Jumper Weight by Shetland Organics (100% Organic Shetland Wool; 196 yards/50g) White (Color A), Light Grey (Color B), Fawn (Color C), Moorit (Color D), Dark Grey (Color E), Black (Color F).

Notions Stitch marker Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Gauge 27 sts and 46 rnds= 4 inches in Woven Stitch pattern on US 4/3.5mm needle Construction This cowl is worked as a tube and begins with a provisional cast-on. The two ends are then grafted together.

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ISBN 978-0-692-28690-6

9 780692

28690 6

$26.00

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