turkey
summer/autumn 2008
Ancient cities, modern living
Istanbul Capital of Culture, 2010 Byzantine CHurCHes OttOman mOsques rOman treasures
LIfe & stYLe Hip destinations authentic food Cool shopping Chic hotels
trOY tOWn
4,000 years of history
ADventures on the turQuOIse COAst
Paragliding, sailing, watersports
WIn A HOLIDAY In IstAnbuL! the world’s most popular city break. Page 23
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EllEn RoonEy / Axiom
The insider’s Turkey
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contents
4 ISTANBUL Capital of Culture, 2010 6 A unique, historical city 10 Ten sights not to miss 12 Restaurants, hotels, clubs 14 Day trip: the Princes’ Islands 15 TURQUOISE COAST Holiday highlights 16 Activity sports 18 Lycian rock tombs 20 Ancient cities 22 Walking tours 23 Competition
FABULOUSsee PRIZE! page 23 Win a brilliant trip for two to Istanbul, one of the world’s most famous cities, and great for sightseeing, food and shopping
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Past, present, future: from the ancient ruins (Aphrodisias, right) and stunning coastline (top) of the southwest to an Istanbul cherryseller (left) and ultra-modern restaurants like Topaz (above)
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Turkish Airlines (THY) fly three times a day from London Heathrow to Istanbul, and once daily from London Stansted. It takes about three hours, 45 minutes. Pegasus, Easyjet and BA all fly there. Several chartered and low-cost airlines go to Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya. The famous Orient Express no longer runs, but it is possible to retrace the original route from Paris using four trains. For hotels, see www.turob.org; for travel agents, www.tursab.org.tr
www.goturkey.com
No.1 city break
capital of culture
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1. turkish rugs Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar
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events 2008 July - December
Istanbul’s historic areas are already a World Heritage Site. In 2010, when the city becomes a European Capital of Culture, visitors will encounter ancient and modern, in perfect harmony
turkey 2008
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is best for carpets 2. ancient troy the ruins of the city (with emblematic wooden horse) are a day’s excursion from Istanbul 3. Bosphorus beauty the Strait separating Europe from Asia is lined with desirable houses 4. Kemal atatürk founder of modern Turkey and its first president 5. turkish grand prix part of the F1 circuit since 2005, it’s staged on the new Istanbul Park Circuit 6. old and new The Dolmabahaçe Palace, foreground, in Be¸sikta¸s, with five-star Swiss hotel behind 7. orhan Kemal Turkey’s greatest posthumous author is now published in the UK 8. angling, Bosphorus Fishing for istavrit, or mackerel 9. whirling dervishes performances Wed–Mon at the Galata Mevlevihanesi 10. fashion star haute couture by Istanbul-born Rifat Ozbek 11. Young turks the national football team was the surprise sensation of Euro 2008 12. nuri Bilge Çeylan winner of Best Director award at Cannes 2008 for his film Three Monkeys 13. Vintage tram, istiklal Kaddesi runs between Beyo˘glu and Taksim
capital of culture
2010
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Swimming the BoSphoruS July 20, 10am-1pm Annual Asia-to-Europe competition, organised by Turkey’s Olympic committee, for swimmers of all ages. It begins in Kanlica, in Asian Istanbul, and ends in Kuruçeþme Cemil Park, on the European side: a distance of 6.5km. hadrian: empire and ConfliCt British museum, london. July 24-october 26 This well-preserved marble bust of Hadrian (right)
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is an important discovery, made only last summer at Sagalossos, an ancient city in southwestern Turkey, where his cult was worshipped. The blockbuster exhibition is devoted to the Roman emperor, who reigned 117-138 AD. portraitS from the empire pera museum. Sept-Jan
Tate Britain’s current Lure of the East exhibition, depicting Ottoman society from the 18th to 20th centuries, transfers to Istanbul’s landmark museum. pm.org.tr deSign CitieS istanbul modern art museum. till august 10 Major history of design, from 1851 until now: 109 works by 64 designers. The exhibition comes to London’s Design Museum on September 5. istanbulmodern.org
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The life and soul The Süleymaniye Mosque: overlooking the Golden Horn
Mysteries of
Istanbul
Award-winning crime novelist Barbara nadel on the city that has obsessed her for more than 30 years
IsTanbul
Istanbul There is a small OTTOman graveyard on the corner of one of Istanbul’s major thoroughfares, Divan Yolu, between the Grand Bazaar and the Topkapı Palace. It lurks quietly behind walls of ornate stone, largely overlooked. Whenever I go there, which is often, I am the only visitor. Sometimes I wonder what the old and ever-vigilant custodians of this little graveyard think of me. I’ve been coming back to this deserted place, alone, for so very, very long. I first visited Istanbul in the mid-1970s, when the city, if not this graveyard, was rather different. Back then, there were still women around who had lived in a sultan’s harem. The buses were dirtier, and European hippies stopped off in Istanbul on their way to Kathmandu for sex, drugs and enlightenment. Now the city has tourists, boutique hotels and fine dining. Not that Istanbul could ever lose its original magic.
AndreA Pistolesi / tiPs imAges
I always head straight for the mausoleum at the northeastern corner. Gravestones in the Ottoman era, which lasted over 600 years (until 1923), were gender-specific: a stone turban for men, a carved veil for women. This mausoleum contains the tomb of Turkey’s last absolute Ottoman ruler, Sultan Abdül Hamid II (1842–1918). Abdül Hamid, pictured above, tried to hold his foundering empire together while wrestling with an anxiety u
turkey 2008
www.goturkey.com
★
The life and soul
Galata Bridge Sirkeci Station Spice Bazaar
u disorder so severe that he eventually became
I go ‘toWhenever the Bazaar, I
Grand Bazaar Topkapi Palace
a prisoner in his own palace of Yıldız. In spite of
ISTANBUL
Aya Sofya
his errors, I have a soft spot for him. He stands for
Blue Mosque
so much of what I perceive to be the essence of
BOGAZICI BRIDGE
BESIKTAS
Istanbul: clever and witty, looking to the future
EUROPE
BEYOGLU Ho den Gol
but rooted in the past, fabulous yet almost self-indulgently melancholic. The Istanbul detective
rn
of my own books, Çetin Ikmen, could be described
GALATA
B
ASIA
rus
ho
p os
GALATA BRIDGE
USKUDAR
’
SULTANAHMET
in just those terms. It is his love of Istanbul that drives him to protect it.
think about the time I was lowered through a hole in the floor of one of the many teahouses
Sea of Marmara PRINCES’ ISLANDS
The old diplomatic quarter
KADIKOY
After the mausoleum, I am drawn back to the Grand Bazaar, but not to buy things. Whenever I
labyrinthine as any Arabian souk. Little shops in
go, I think about the time I was lowered through
blind alleyways offer fancy hats, military medals
a hole in the floor of one of the Bazaar’s many
and publicity pictures of old Turkish movie stars. My Inspector knows these serpentine alleyways
teahouses. Below was a Byzantine cistern. A pencil torch in my mouth illuminated row upon row of
well. He chases gangsters and murderesses down
perfect 1,000-year-old-arches.
a great many of them. Istanbul is full of such places, hidden and in shade, which is why its great,
workshops that cluster around the domes in the
open spaces can overwhelm. On the ferries full of
Bazaar’s vast roof. I’ve been up there with a carpet
commuters that ply the Horn and the Bosphorus,
dealer (unusually, a woman) and with men recently
the views are of imperial mosques and fantastical,
returned from hair-raising trips to buy carpets in
waterside palaces, like the vast rococo Dolmabahçe
Afghanistan. For me, the Bazaar has become less
Palace on the northern shore of the Bosphorus.
about shopping and more about the possibility of further adventures in its darker recesses. I always return to the district of Beyo˘glu; my liking
The mighty Sultan To the north and east of this lies the green splash
is positively an addiction. It lies on the north side
that is Yıldız Park, and in the middle of that is the
of the Golden Horn, across from the ‘old’ Byzantine
palace of Abdül Hamid II. Standing on the deck of
district of Sultanahmet, and stretches from Karaköy
a ferry, one can speculate on how a mighty sultan
to the hub of Taksim Square. Beyo˘glu is ‘new’ – that
lost his grip upon both his mind and his empire.
is to say, from the 19th century – and has a much
The day’s research done, I like to make for the
more Western feel, at least in parts. It was the
bars and restaurants of Nevizade Sokak in Beyo˘glu.
diplomatic quarter when Istanbul was capital of the
As well as the excellent food and drink, there is live
Ottoman Empire, and there is much about it that
music and fascinating people to watch. I will top
is louche, faded and distinctly belle époque. People
this off with a nargile, or water-pipe, at one of the
from the embassies used to shop on the Grand Rue
many cafés by the Bosphorus at Tophane.
de Pera, now called Istiklal Caddesi.
There I close my eyes and dream of what may
Here are churches of almost every possible denomination, and restaurants run by the descendants of White
HAMAMS
will return to my graveyard and Abdül
Russian ballerinas. It’s also the
The famous Turkish bath-houses
somewhere new for Çetin Ikmen to run
scene of a horrific house fire in my
are gender-designated – erkekler
around after bad types? Whatever I choose
first Çetin Ikmen book, Belshazzar’s
(men) and kadinlar (women)
ALAMY
Daughter. But just because
8
happen on my next day in Istanbul. Maybe I Hamid once again? Or maybe I’ll look at
to consider, it always makes me smile. <
East-End born Barbara Nadel has written
Beyo˘glu is comparatively ‘new’
10 books in her series about Çetin Ikmen,
and ‘European’, one should not be
a chain-smoking, hard-drinking detective
fooled. The alleyways and staircases
in Istanbul. They have been translated into
that surround its fish market are as
several languages, including Turkish.
TURKEY 2008
StreetS ahead Barney Fisher-Turner enjoys local fast food When I moved to Turkey four years ago, I tried every kind of food, even a pre-emptive hangover cure involving hot bowls of tripe soup spiked with fresh garlic and vinegar. But most days I’d have a sesamecovered simit, an inexpensive snack similar to a bagel that is usually eaten with a cup of black tea, or çay, sold by tea sellers balancing brass trays (pictured below). Street food is one of the joys of Istanbul, a world away from the inauthentic kebabs that we see in the UK, and the best way to enjoy it is to walk the streets. The other day I strolled to Taksim Square, past the dozens of simit-sellers, and along Istiklal Caddesi to Tünel, a small district full of shops and restaurants. Canım Ci˘g erim is a famous shish establishment specialising in barbecued lamb and liver pieces, served with a spicy tomato salsa called ezme and air-puffed bread called lavas, which is usually eaten with meze dishes, or
Istanbul
ISTANBUL
I think, too, about the tiny storerooms and
appetisers. With it, I had a yoghurt drink called ayran that combines beautifully with any grilled meat. After lunch, I took a boat across the Bosphorus to Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul. As soon as we pulled away, waiters swished around the deck, offering strong, dark çay. Half an hour later, I was treating myself to a barbecued mackerel with red onion sandwich and a bottle of ¸s algam, a refreshing sour, spicy drink made from turnips. Not a pitta bread in sight! Barney Fisher-Turner works as a food stylist in Istanbul and writes for Forbes magazine
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10 cultural highlights
48hours in istanbul
If time is short, head straight for these architectural glories
Aya Sofya Museum
Be¸sikta¸s
Ghostly battalions of carp
After leaving Topkapı, the
swim alongside as you pass
Ottoman sultans came to
across the wooden walkway
this 19th-century monolith,
though this huge Byzantine
whose ostentatious décor
cistern, the largest of
includes a four-tonne
several hundred that lie
chandelier presented by
beneath the city. Its water
Queen Victoria. Houses the
supplied Topkapı Palace
Museum of Fine Arts
Blue Mosque The Hippodrome,
Topkapı Palace Babihumayun Caddesi
Kariye Camii Kariye Camii Sokak,
Sultanahmet
Turkey’s number-one
Edirnekapi
One of the city’s greatest
tourist attraction. The
AKA the St Saviour in
architectural attractions
official residence of the
Chora, it’s a 12th-century
and so-called because of its
Sultans from 1465 to 1853,
church in western Istanbul.
beautiful blue-tiled interior,
it was constructed around
With luminously beautiful
the mosque was built in
a complex of courtyards,
mosaics and frescoes
1603–17 on the site of the
with grand reception halls.
depicting the life of Christ,
Its wonders include Islamic
it’s compulsory for all
armoury, art and jewellery
lovers of Byzantine art
Great Palace of Byzantium.
Detail of Medusa head
The ‘Church of Holy
and don’t miss...
converted into a mosque by Mehmet the Conqueror,
Luis Castaneda / tips images
Caddesi 13
Sultanahmet district
AD 537 and later
is considered the apogee of Byzantine architecture, with its soaring dome and gold mosaics
turkey 2008
Dolmabahçe Palace Dolmabahçe Caddesi,
Closed at prayer times
Wisdom’, built in
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Basilica Cistern Sultanahmet, Yerebatan
ISTANBUL
ISTANBUL
Few cities have Istanbul’s long and illustrious history. It grew from a fishing village to become prosperous Byzantium. By AD 330, it was capital of the Roman Empire. In Constantinople, as it was called, charismatic emperors such as Theodosius the Great and Justinian built grand civic and religious monuments. Finally, in 1453, Christianity gave way to Islam, and the Ottomans began establishing the impressive mosques and palaces we can visit today. By Virginia Maxwell, author of Lonely Planet’s Istanbul City Guide
Archaeology Museum and Museum of the Ancient Orient Osman Hamdi Bey Yoku¸su, Gülhane Park Home to the imperial palace collections, the Archaeology Museum has finds from Ephesus and Troy, as well as the exquisite Alexander Sarcophagus (right). The Museum of the Ancient Orient has important
Anatolian, Mesopotamian and Egyptian artefacts Museum of Turkish & Islamic Art Atmeydani Sokak, near the Hippodrome Once the residence of Süleyman the Magnificent’s Grand Vizier, the restored palace now has one of the world’s best collections of Islamic items, particularly antique carpets dating
from the 13th century and significant manuscripts and miniatures Pera Museum Mesrutiyet Caddesi 141, Beyo˘glu It’s worth veering off the famous promenade of Istiklal Caddesi to visit this privately-endowed museum, notable for ‘Orientalist’ paintings influenced by 19thcentury European art, especially Osman Hamdi Bey’s famous The Tortoise Trainer.
Süleymaniye Mosque Professor Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi. Near Istanbul University’s north gate Often held to be the finest of all Ottoman mosque complexes, it was designed by the great 16th-century architect, Mimar Sinan, for Süleyman the Magnificent, and sits atop one of Istanbul’s seven hills. It retains its original soup kitchen (now a restaurant) and functioning hamam (bath-house)
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Life and style
restaurants
CLUBS
by sharon croxford
BY FULYA OZLEM
A typical lokanta: delicious pre-cooked dishes dominate inexpensive menus
in IN his HIS excellenT EXCELLENT documenTary, DOCUMENTARY,
hosts live gigs from singer-songwriters and jazz musicians, as well as DJ nights,
HOTELS
in a converted bakery with high, frescoed
Istanbul hotels range from the spectacular (and
ceilings and a stage setting resembling
expensive) Les Ottomans, on the European shore of the
‘The Phantom of the Opera’. ghettoist.com
Bosphorus, to the many beautifully converted wooden
A street away is peyote, Peyote, an institution on Istanbul’s alternative rock scene. It has
city. Even if you don’t stay there, it is educative just
Fatih Akin, Turkey’s most famous film film
three floors: floors: On the first first there are DJs, the
having a drink in grand establishments with wonderful
director, focuses on local legend Selim
second has live music, and the third is a
waterfront views like the Çiragan Palace. For hotels,
Sesler playing with Turkish rappers and
rooftop bar with ambient sounds (10,
grunge rockers. Sesler’s
Kameriye Sokak, Beyo˘glu. myspace.
roots music is a Tuesday
com/peyotenevizade).
night feature at araf, Araf, Caddesi, the long street in
W Istanbul
there is 360, a restaurant
Suleyman Seba Caddesi 22,
off Taksim Square, where
beautiful people hang
Akaretler,
much of Istanbul’s popular
out. As its name suggests,
Be¸sikta¸s.
nightlife is to be found. Rooftop venues in tall, 19th-century buildings are
it offers a panorama of Istanbul from the top of its
whotels.com/ istanbul £££ Currently the coolest hotel in the city, the recently
At Araf, high above the tiled roofs, you
‘Bomb Baby’ in hand (that’s vodka, fresh
opened W combines luxury with Ottoman glamour. A
can perform your own belly dance to the
watermelon, mint and cardamom), you
short walk from the Bosphorus and even closer to the
wails of Sesler’s gypsy clarinet. There is live
step through its large glass doors and
smart shopping district of Ni¸santa¸sı.
‘world music’ almost every night, ranging
watch as, far below, great vessels ply the
There is a popular misconception Prices: £= £10pp; ££= £20pp
restaurant in trendy Asmalımescit. Dishes
Refik, Refik, which opened in 1954, is one of
from Sephardic canticas to Armenian
Bosphorus between Asia and Europe.
Ayasofya Mansions
that Turkish cuisine consists of
Çiya Güne¸slibahçe Sokak 43, Kadıköy.
are laid out on the bar. Fashion designer
Istanbul’s best. Signature dishes include
virtuosos of the duduk (a traditional reed
360istanbul.com
Sogukçesme Sokak, Sultanahmet.
nothing more than a döner kebab.
ciya.com.tr ££
Hussein Chalayan is allegedly a regular.
hamsibugulama (fish (fish steamed in season)
instrument) such as Suren Asaduryan. This
It is so much more. Istanbul’s
This famous establishment, in the Asian
Mavi Kö¸se Lokantası (aka Köfteci
and kara lahana dolmasi (stuffed cabbage).
is a city where you can hear Madonna’s
seventh-floor seventh-floor bar/restaurant leb-i Leb-i derya Derya in
A reliable and charming pension, occupying nine
cuisine is a rich combination of
district of Kadıköy, is devoted to the
Arnavut) Mürsel Pa¸sa Caddesi 155, Balat.
Hamdi Tahmi¸s Caddesi. Kalçin Sokak
Music sung by the operatically-trained
the Tünel district, where drinks include the
restored houses and situated right by Topkapı Palace,
rustic Anatolian cooking with the
cuisine of Southeast Anatolia but remains
Tel. +90 212 531 6652 £
17 (next to the Spice Bazaar), Eminönü.
Sertab Erener, winner of the 2003
exotic ‘Yasak Elma’, a mix of Martini, vodka,
so ideal for sightseeing. Rooms are furnished in
sophisticated dishes of the Ottoman
highly eclectic. Culinary archaeologist
Istanbul’s best köfte (meatballs), to
Tel. +90 212 528 0390. ££ (food only)
Eurovision Song Contest, or be swept
Cointreau and apple juice. The dinner menu
19th-century Turkish style.
is big on steak. lebiderya.com < Fulya Ozlem is a Turkish singer-songwriter
Empress Zoe
Also great for views and cocktails is the
ayasofyapensions.com ££
Palace and the centuries’ old
Musa Da˘g deviren is the humblest
my mind, comes from this tiny corner
The view over the confluence confluence of
away by the ‘Arabesque’ strains of Müslüm
kitchens of Istanbul’s elite.
celebrity chef you will ever meet. Alcohol
restaurant in Balat, along the Golden
the Bosphorus and Golden Horn is
Gürses and Orhan Gencebay. araf.com.tr
isn’t served but there’s a surprising range
Horn. Cooked to perfection, served with
spectacular, and the Arab-Kurdish food
and film-maker, film-maker, whose debut album was
Adliye Sokak 10,
of sherbets. Highlights are diyarbakir
fresh tomato slices, bread stacked up
isn’t bad, either. Order the içli köfte
situated at one end of the Fish Market,
released last May. To listen to Fulya’s songs,
Sultanahmet.
Empire, together with diverse
guvec (lamb, tomato and aubergine
next to it, the tiny meat patties melt in
(stuffed, fried köfte) and lahmacun (a
on Kalyoncu Kulluk Caddesi in Beyo˘glu. It
visit: myspace.com/fulyabuzkralicesi
recipes learnt from the cooks of
stew) and kuru sebze domalsi (aubergine
your mouth. Locals eat them with creamy
tiny, crispy dough base, topped with
conquered lands, have created a
stuffed with rice and lamb).
yoghurt or white beans in oil.
minced lamb, parsley and piquant tomato.
cuisine that many rate one of the
Adem Baba Satı¸s Meydanı Sokak 2,
Refik Refik Sofyalı Sokak 10, Tünel.
Pandeli Misir Carsisi (Spice Bazaar) 1,
world’s best. Golden pilaffs and
Arnavütköy. adembaba.com £
Tel. +90 212 243 2834 ££ (food only)
Eminönü. Tel. +90 212 527 3909.
city, with a lovely
exotic casseroles of lamb and dried
The day’s catch, accompanied by a
Meze (especially fish fish dishes), rakı and
Lunch only. ££
little garden and terrace. Built above a 15th-century
fruits, spiced with cinnamon, honey
simple salad (no alcohol), is on offer
live music are characteristic of meyhanes,
An Istanbul institution, and admittedly
bathhouse, rooms are small but perfect.
and rosewater helva, represent just
at this cheap fish fish restaurant, located
Turkey’s traditional bar/restaurants.
a bit touristy, Pandeli must be visited if
a little of that legacy.
in the beautiful Bosphorus village of
The sheer abundance of produce from the far reaches of the Ottoman
Pandeli: typical Turkish fare on top of the Spice Bazaar
Similar diversity is demonstrated at Ghetto,
Leb-i Derya: an open terrace offers stunning views of the Bosphorus
emzoe.com £ A moderately priced, restful B&B in the old
only for its wonderful, blue-and-white
Pera Palas
tiled rooms, set above the arched
Mesrutiyet Cad. 98-100, Beyo˘glu.
entrance to the Egyptian Bazaar. Its
perapalace.com. £££
Istanbul is an amazing place for
Arnavutköy. Customers come back again
a foodie, though dining out can be
and again for its amazing ‘fast-food’ fish. fish.
a little hit-and-miss, particularly
Helvetia Lokanta General Yazgan Sokak
seabass en papillote is a classic. <
A very famous 19th-century ‘oteli’, built in the grand
around the busy historical sites.
12, Tünel. Tel. +90 212 245 8780 £
Sharon Croxford is a writer, photographer
European style to accommodate passengers from
However, here are seven places that
Predominantly traditional, vegetarian
and chef who co-founded the Istanbul Food
the Orient Express. You cannot fail to be impressed
are highly recommended. <
cooking at this small but busy corner
Workshop, recreating Ottoman recipes
by all the old-world bling.
turkey 2008
ISTANBUL
19th-century building on Istiklal Avenue.
a distinctive feature of this area.
ISTANBUL
Prices: £££ = £200+; ££ = £70-£150; £ = £70-£100
cosmopolitan tastes, and bar where the
the Beyo˘glu district, leading
Christopher Wise
see turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr
For more
a rooftop bar off Istiklal
12
pansiyons (guest houses) in the heart of the old
Crossing the Bridge: The Sound of Istanbul,
www.goturkey.com
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★
A day trip from the city
Blue voyages
Prince charming: at weekends, Istanbul’s holidaymakers throng the streets of Büyükada
aegean sea
turquoise coast bodrum marmaris
antalya
dalaman
phaselis
fethiye
A journey Along
kalkan
H
kas
finike
Mediterranean
the turquoise coast Tom Brosnahan explores the scenery and civilisations of Turkey’s southern coast, from Bodrum to Antalya u
ISTANBUL
turquoise coast
Exiles in paradise Even Trotsky loved the gentle Princes’ Islands. By Lucretia Stewart THE PRINCES’ ISLANDS are an
one of the many fine, wooden mansions
on the terrace of the Splendid Palace
archipelago of nine small islands in
that adorn the island.
Hotel, built in 1906. The hotel manager,
Even on weekends, when day trippers
the Sea of Marmara, between 15
surge off the ferries to spend the
They have a long history of settlement
day picnicking in the pine woods or
by Armenian, Greek and Jewish
besieging the restaurants, Büyükada
Calm and car-free
communities seeking political refuge.
never really loses its tranquillity. It seems
Of the three other inhabited islands,
to have an innocent, Edwardian quality,
all served by public ferry, Heybeliada
the most beautiful and remote. It means, literally, Big (büyük) Island (ada), and was once a place of exile for disgraced patriarchs and Byzantine princes. Now it is the prime resort for city-dwellers escaping Istanbul’s summer heat, rather as the Hamptons are for New Yorkers. It is also a
details
partly because there are
(‘Saddlebag Island’), is the most
no cars, only horse-drawn
attractive, with decent restaurants open
faytons and hired bicycles,
all-year-round. It’s a place of forests,
Getting there Less than two hours by ferry from Sirkeci, pier no.5 Where to stay Büyükada: Splendid Palace Hotel (below). splendidhotel.net. The terrace is a great place to meet for a drink. Heybeliada: Merit Halki Palace. merithotels.com. Both hotels closed in winter. For hotels, see turob.org
although there is now an
hills and fine beaches. On the northwest
Internet café.
coast is a good, if expensive, club for
Businessmen return home
watersports. Walking and cycling are
from a hard, hot day in
also popular. There are no cars here,
Istanbul while their wives
either, and on the smallest island,
languidly fan themselves
Kinaliada (‘Henna Island’, after the red
on their balconies and
cliffs), not even faytons.
nursemaids chase after small
Finally, there is Burgazada, which has some charm, as well as a museum
early evening, couples, old
dedicated to novelist Sait Faik, the
here from 1929 to 1933
and young, stroll arm-in-
‘Turkish Mark Twain’. However, Büyükada
and wrote his History of the
arm, the free arm holding an
is the undisputed prince of Princes’. <
Russian Revolution
ice-cream cone; and elderly
Novelist and journalist Lucretia Stewart
at 55 Çankaya Caddesi,
ladies play cards and gossip
spent her childhood summers in Istanbul.
Leon Trotsky (above) lived
TURKEY 2008
Mediterranean eyrie: With pine-covered mountains enclosing deep fjords, the turquoise coast stretches for nearly 1,600km. one of the best ways to appreciate it is to take to the sea by yacht or gulet alamy
children in sailor suits. In the
place of historical pilgrimage:
ALAMY
them his ‘gold’ ladies.
and 30km southeast of Istanbul.
Büyükada is the largest, and also
14
who has been there for 30 years, calls
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Bodrum ™ Marmaris
u Turkey’s wesTern MediTerranean
toppled by an earthquake. Its shaped stones
coast may be the ‘new’ destination for holiday
were later used to strengthen the castle walls,
travellers, yet it’s among the oldest civilised
its marble statues crushed and burned to
places on the Med; indeed, it’s the birthplace
make lime for mortar.
of the ‘Father of History’, Herodotus. Along this Turquoise Coast, the marble ruins
Luckily, in 1846, the British ambassador to the Sublime Porte, Lord Stratford de Redcliffe,
of Hellenistic and Roman cities, the churches
received permission from the Sultan to claim a
of the Byzantines and the castles of the
portion of Mausoleum frieze portraying battle
Crusaders stand amid date palms and liquid-
between Greeks and Amazons. The Crusader
amber pines, and near to broad beaches of
knights had spared this work and installed
shingle or sand. Coastal villages and towns
it in the castle. Today, the frieze is preserved
have preserved much of their past because
in the British Museum, along with several
for so long they were inaccessible. For three
fragments of statuary from the Mausoleum,
millennia, access was always by sea. Modern
also removed with imperial permission.
Now, in one of history’s ironies, easy access
Lunch, swim and a nap
by road has meant a huge increase in visitors;
As Turkey’s premier riviera resort, Bodrum
yet the city-dwellers who arrive by car or bus
today is all about sleek yachts, trendy
then cast off and sail away on ‘Blue Voyages’,
bars and restaurants, fancy boutiques and
as the Turks call yacht cruises.
nightclubs with sound and laser-light systems
On our journey, let’s start at Bodrum, where
of seemingly nuclear power. Those in search
yachts cluster beneath the crenellated walls
of calmer evenings escape to the little fish
of the Castle of St Peter, which was occupied
restaurants lining the quiet bay of Gümüslük,
by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem during
on the western shore of the Bodrum
the 1400s and early 1500s. Climb a maze of
peninsula, or go farther north, to the small
stone ramps and stairs to the English Tower
towns of Yalikavak, Gölköy and Türkbükü.
to see its banqueting hall bearing the arms
turquoise coast
turquoise coast
roads were built only in the past few decades.
Ferries connect Bodrum with the
of King Henry IV and graffiti from the English
Re¸sadiye Peninsula that extends west from
knights who defended it until 1523, when the
Marmaris for 100 km, marking the informal
armies of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent
demarcation between the Aegean and
caused their retreat to Malta. Then look out
Mediterranean. At the peninsula’s tip stands
from the tower parapet at a wonderful view of
ancient Knidos, a rich, Dorian city dating
Bodrum’s two perfect, small bays, lined with
from around 400 BC. A great cult statue of
restaurants and shops.
Aphrodite by the famed Praxiteles once stood on the promontory where the winds change
seventh wonder of the world
from westerly to northerly, forcing mariners
Stones in the castle walls tell an even older
to spend time in its port – as did St Paul on his
story. Some were taken from the Mausoleum,
journey to Rome and eventual trial.
the monumental tomb of King Mausolos of
Modern mariners come
Caria (377–353 BC) that was ranked among
here on day-cruises from
the Seven Wonders of the World in ancient times. The tomb that lent its name to monumental
have lunch, a swim, a nap in the
masonry stood intact for
sun, a drink beneath the sheltering
1,500 years before being
16
Marmaris. They drop anchor in Knidos’s pristine little bay and
turkey 2008
awning at the stern, and then a leisurely ramble through the ruins ashore. u
High adventure: with its panoramic views, Ölüdeniz beach (top) is one of the best places in the world to paraglide; for those who prefer watersports, there’s whitewater rafting in Köprülü Kanyon, a gulet cruise (far left) or a visit to the lovely Duden Falls, 15km north of Antalya (left). Wildlife is abundant: herons (opposite) can be seen in summer For hotels, see turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr
www.goturkey.com
17
H
Marmaris ™ Fethiye Life aboard: some coastal areas can only be reached by sea. Chartering a gulet and taking one of Turkey’s famous ‘Blue Voyages’ means stopping wherever you want, if only to take a leisurely dip in the warm waters
Motor launches ‘chug down the rushlined Dalyan Creek, past cliffs hewn with Lycian rock tombs, to ancient Kaunos
’
u Marmaris, a fishing-and-citrus farming
village less than 50 years ago, is now one of the Turquoise Coast’s most active resorts. Its splendid natural bay, ringed by tall palms and resort hotels, was where Admiral Nelson prepared his fleet for
TURQUOISE COAST
turquoise coast
battle with Napoleon at Abukir, Egypt, in 1798. Today, it’s busy with broad-beamed gulet yachts on charter, and speedboats dragging raucous holidaymakers on inflatable ‘banana’ boats. Locals know that the place to escape
through the town, development of new regional resorts is booming. Most travellers
to the placid town of Köyce˘giz, on the
are on their way to Marmaris, 100km west, or
northern shore of the lake bearing that
Fethiye, 58km east, with only a small number
name. Small hotels and pensions dot the
stopping at Göcek, the beautiful little yachting
The Turquoise Coast offers many dive packages,
quiet lakeshore. Motor launches chug
port just a short drive east of Dalaman.
with or without gulet cruises. Water temperature
diving boats. Emergency decompression facilities
varies from 18ºC in May to 30ºC in August.
are shared. Pack your dive log if you have already
towards the Sultaniye Kaplıcaları, the
FABULOUS PRIZE!
18
Win a trip for two to Istanbul, one of the world’s greatest and most ancient cities and the old, imperial capital of Turkey
turkey 2008
Most diving companies own excellently equipped
Gulets, a Turkish delight
The diving season runs mostly from April to
clocked up diving hours. Only Turkish citizens can
the rush-lined Dalyan Creek, past cliffs
Göcek, on Fethiye Bay, is at the centre of
November, but in Ka¸s, for instance, it goes on
dive independently in Turkish waters. Foreigners
hewn with Lycian rock tombs, to ancient
‘Blue Voyage’ sailing routes, which carry
pretty well all-year-round.
can join any of the diving
Kaunos and the splendid, broad sand
tourists along the miles and miles of pine-
beach at Iztuzu.
clad shoreline from Bodrum to Antalya, past
abundant fish, but there are octopus, stingray and
In Ka¸s
islands and fishing fishing villages and ancient ruins.
morays, as well as sea cucumbers, loggerhead
Anemone Diving Centre
Marine life is typical of the Med, so don’t expect
schools below.
The prime craft for such a voyage is the
turtles, caves, wrecks, drop-offs and tunnels
anemonediving-kas.com
Dalyan, to the south of the lake, makes its
gulet, or traditional coastal boat. Built not
to explore, and a night dive is a supernatural
Dragoman Travel
living by hosting visitors in small inns and
for speed but for comfort, broad-beamed
encounter. Don’t miss, in particular, the submerged
dragoman-turkey.com
hotels and taking them on river and lake
gulets offer plenty of deck space for lounging,
archaeology park off the coast of Ka¸s; and at
Ka¸s Diving kas-diving.com
cruises. Busier than Köyce˘giz, with more
sunbathing and dining. A spacious saloon
Antalya there’s a wreck of a hospital ship from WWII,
Mavi Diving mavidiving.com
restaurants and shops, it’s esteemed by
and ample cabins are below decks. They may
though historical sites are often legally off-limits.
Naturablue Sporting naturablue.com
those wanting less bustle than Marmaris
include private heads (washrooms) and even
Well-regulated diving schools are in Bodrum,
but more than Köyce˘giz.
personal showers, air conditioning, standard
Ka¸s , Marmaris, Kalkan and Fethiye, catering
European Diving europeandiving.co.uk
electrical points and, of course, all modern
both for beginners and for divers on specialist
Bodrum
safety and navigation devices.
Advanced and Divemasters courses afflliated
Yunus Diving yunusscuba.com
to PADI (Professional Association of Diving
Içmeler/Marmaris
Southeast along the coast from Dalyan is Dalaman, a farming town with the largest airport west of Antalya, which
The town of Fethiye, on the southeast side of
Fethiye
receives flights from all over Europe.
Fethiye Bay, was founded 2,500 years ago as
Instructors) and/or CMAS (Confédération
Divers Delight diversdelight.com
With so many holidaymakers streaming
Telmessos. Today, it has little to show for u
Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques).
Suzanne Swann
www.goturkey.com
JONNY LE FORTUNE / ZEFA / CORBIS
WWW.supersTock.com
see page 23
…and explore the many undersea ruins
thermal spa and mud baths, then down
Göcek, a beautiful little port
Tomb with a view: the Lycians, the ancient people of Anatolia, cut tombs for their dead in the soft limestone cliffs that line coasts and rivers. There are more than 1,000 still intact. They believed that the souls of their dead would be borne away by winged sirens
SPLASH OUT ON DIVING LESSONS
the crowds is an easy drive to the east,
19
H
Fethiye ™ Demre
u its antiquity: it was devastated in
The lovely beach at Ölüdeniz is just over
populations following World War I. It
1957 by the latest in a long series of
the hills to the south. Not far beyond it is
is now preserved as an atmospheric
earthquakes that left only its tall, Lycian
Butterfly Valley, a dramatic, fjord-like cove
monument to that time. A footpath
sarcophagi still standing, like the Cenotaph
with its own small beach that’s a popular
starting here will take you down the
at Whitehall, as memorials to the past.
anchorage for yachts. And Fethiye is
mountainside to Ölüdeniz.
The Tomb of Amyntas, a temple facade
also the trailhead for the Lycian Way, a
carved from the cliff above the town,
500km waymarked walking route across
Greco-Roman remains of Tlos, Pinara,
would seem to symbolise the town’s
the mountains to Antalya that was the
Sidyma, the Letoon temple, Xanthos and
stubborn resistance. And yet, most visitors
brainchild – and gift to the world – of
Patara. Xanthos yielded some of its best
are coming not for antiquities but for sun,
Kate Clow, a Briton living in Turkey.
art pieces to British archaeologists in
sea and sand, which they find northeast
Walkers can also start a morning
Within an easy drive of Fethiye are the
1842, and they are now preserved in the
of Fethiye at Çalis Beach, a shingle strand
ramble in the eerie ghost town of
British Museum. At Patara, the native town
several kilometres long.
Kayaköy, further south. Once a thriving
of St Nicholas (later morphed into Father
Ottoman Greek town called Levissi, its
Christmas), ancient ruins rise just inland
the natural and archaeological riches of
2,000 stone houses and several churches
from what is Turkey’s best beach, some
the surrounding coast and countryside.
were abandoned in the exchange of
50 metres wide and 20 kilometres long.
Fethiye makes a good base for visits to
turquoise coast
Turkey has more well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins than Greece and Italy combined. Here are six of the best sites on the west and southern coasts. By Peter Sommer
20
turkey 2008
The origins of Santa Claus
shore of Üçagiz village is marked by the
Inland, at Saklikent Gorge, a narrow rift
Lycian pedestal sarcophagi familiar in
in the mountains, 18km long, ensures
Fethiye, while Kaleköy nearby, a hamlet
icy-cold waters that flash with fish. Hiking
in the shadow of a hilltop fortress, is the
into the cool gorge, far from the sun’s heat,
favoured landing-place for lunch. Cruises
and lunching on fresh trout makes for an
continue on to Kekova (or Tersane) Island
excellent excursion.
and more Byzantine ruins, unexcavated and
EPhESuS (EfES) 3km from Selçuk, and
KaunoS 30 minutes by boat from
near the port of Ku¸sadasi
Dalyan; 27km west of Dalaman airport
The best-preserved classical city of the
The boat taking you from Dalyan snakes
Eastern Mediterranean, Efes was home to
through emerald-green waters to the
the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven
monumental rock tombs of Kaunos,
Wonders of the World. In its Roman
hewn from the sheer rock face in the 4th
heyday, it had marble streets, a theatre
century BC by ancient Carians. Abundant
for 28,000, and a beautiful library
wildlife includes flamingoes in winter
– a good reason to make the effort.
aPhroDiSiaS 1.5km from Geyre
aryKanDa 1km from arif, on the
village, cascading down the mountainside
unrestored, and engendering the feeling
Named after Aphrodite, the goddess of
finike–Elmali road
to a pristine small harbour, is a favourite
that you are the first person in modern
love, to whom a great temple was built
Dubbed the ‘Turkish Delphi’ because of
with Brits who own or let villas here. You’ll
times to look upon them.
here in the 1st century AD. The Temple,
its breathtaking location on five large
hear plenty of English spoken at dinner
which became a Christian basilica in the
terraces of a mountain slope, this Lycian
tables in the many waterfront restaurants.
5th century, has been partially restored.
city has it all – Roman baths, tombs, a
It has the world’s best-preserved sports stadium, which held 30,000 people
Driving on, the neighbouring towns of Kalkan and Ka¸s, at the southernmost extent of the Tekke Peninsula, mark the mid-point between the airports of Dalaman and Antalya. They are a bit more difficult to get to, which means that fewer people go
‘
Hiking into the cool gorge, far from the sun’s heat, and lunching on fresh trout makes for an excellent excursion
’
Kalkan, a photogenic Ottoman fishing
A few more kilometres to the east, the town of Demre has a large Roman theatre
Ka¸s is larger, with a greater variety
and dramatic Lycian cliff tombs, but its
theatre, stadium and Byzantine mosaics
of hotels, inns and pensions, and more
greater claim to fame is that St Nicholas
– without the crowds of its Greek cousin
frequent transport. It also has the
lived here and was buried in the church. His
ruins of the ancient Lycian town
statue (left) stands in the church garden.
of Antiphellos and, clearly visible
Ancient Myra, nearby, takes its name
KniDoS 38km west of Datça
aSPEnDoS nr Belkis, 47km from antalya
In antiquity, tourists came to see
Follow a track until the massive arches of
Praxiteles’ 4th-century BC statue of
a 19km-long aqueduct soar above you:
Aphrodite, a lifelike female nude. The
a stunning feat of engineering. There’s
site is hard to reach by land but is
also a Roman theatre that’s still used in
glorious in aspect when approached by
summer for the International Aspendos
sea. Boats leave regularly from Datça in
Opera and Ballet Festival. operabale.
season; the round trip takes six hours
kultur.gov.tr/aspendos
out to sea, the Greek island of
from myrrh, the aromatic resin whose high
Kastellorizo (Megisti in Greek,
price made its fortune and led to Nicholas
Meis Adası in Turkish).
becoming its bishop in the 4th century.
Ka¸s also has lots of boats for
turquoise coast
Turkey’s buried Treasures
Marmaris: pretty street in the old town of this busy port
Legend has it that he took pity on young
day excursions to the sunken
women too poor to marry and secretly
Byzantine ruins of Teimiussa,
dropped bags of gold coins down their
at Üçagiz to the east. The
chimneys. These ‘gifts from heaven’ may u
www.goturkey.com
21
★
Finike ™ Perge
TOP WALKS u have inspired the Christmas story that Santa
the east – frame the city, and rugged cliffs rise
The Lycian Way pioneered ‘geo-tourism’
comes down the chimney with presents.
from its historic Roman harbour. At its centre
in Turkey, along with its more rugged
stands a statue of King Attalos II of Pergamum,
relative, the St Paul Trail. The long-distance
coastal road heads north to the site of
who founded the city of Attaleia here in 159 BC.
footpaths are expertly marked with red-white
ancient Olimpos, where Roman ruins hide
The Antalya Museum houses the archaeological
paint flashes every 100m or less, but only
among the pines and budget travellers can
wealth of the region’s rich history.
experienced trekkers should contemplate
After the town of Finike to the east, the
lodge in tree-house hostels with all comforts
Antalya’s old town, situated
provided, including cold lager and fast Internet
within the harbour’s Roman
The Lycian Way
connections. The shingle beach at Olimpos is
fortifications, is full of Ottoman
snakes for 509km over
also pleasant and uncrowded, with welcome
houses, legally protected against
the Toros mountain ridge,
shade and basic services close by.
modern development. Built
from Fethiye to Antalya,
around verdant courtyards,
becoming more challenging
Antalya’s old Ottoman houses
many are now delightful
towards Antalya. It takes
At Çirali, a few kilometres north of Olimpos,
boutique hotels.
in seascapes and suggests
TURQUOISE COAST
the eternal flames of the Chimaera rise from
detours to ruins not found in
the earth. Although small and weak today, the
Antony and Cleopatra’s tryst
most guidebooks. Be sure to use the book
flames were a famous beacon to mariners in
Within a short drive of Antalya are some of
and maps of Kate Clow, who marked the
ancient times. They are actually methane gas
the Turquoise Coast’s most impressive and
Way in 1998-9 and has also adapted maps
seeping and self-igniting.
enjoyable sights. My favourite is the mountain
for Turkey’s military. lycianwaywalk.com
Few travellers detour south to Çavu¸sköy,
aerie of Termessos, a Hellenistic city with a
Best time to walk: Sept to mid-Nov
which is what gives this little-known village its
great stone theatre, built high in a cirque of
The St Paul Trail follows the route
appeal. Here, small hotels and pensions line a
the mountains, north of Antalya’s fertile plain.
walked by St Paul on his first missionary
pretty bay, and the pace of life is restful. But
Its spectacular views were just a bonus for the
journey in Asia Minor. It goes from Yalvaç,
north from Olimpos, the influence of Antalya,
Termessians. The real point was defensive: the
northeast of Lake E˘g irdir, to Perge, with a
the largest city on Turkey’s Mediterranean
city’s mighty walls and its position, spreading
second branch starting at Aspendos, 40km
coast, becomes apparent. The road widens,
up the narrow valley for 2km, kept even
east of Antalya – about 500km in total. It’s
traffic increases, and the last haven of calm
Alexander the Great from attempting conquest.
arduous, and there are no accommodation
is Phaselis, where the remains of a Roman
To the east of Antalya, along the coast, are
or refreshment stops. Mountaineering
city lie scattered on the shores of three idyllic
more ancient cities, grand ruins and long,
equipment is essential, as is a GPS device
small bays. A large remnant of aqueduct still
soft beaches. They include the Roman city of
– and stamina. stpaultrail.com
impresses, and signs forbidding picnicking
Perge, the almost-intact Hellenistic theatre at
Best time to walk: mid-Jun to end Oct
are largely ignored because it is so obviously
Aspendos, and the town of Side (pronounced
The St Nicholas Trail – 18km of
the perfect spot. Then on to Kemer, a gleaming white resort town 50km south of Antalya. It was purposebuilt to accommodate tour groups and has since grown and prospered. To its north, at Beldibi, are several large hotel complexes that take advantage of the shingle beach, pine forests and dramatic views of the Beydaglari mountains. Antalya itself grew from a
go see…
Loggerhead Turtles Giants as long as 3.5 feet are to be found at Iztuzu Beach in Dalyan, earmarked for development until it was found to be one of the last Mediterranean nesting grounds for this endangered species. Restricted visiting times, from May to September, have helped raise numbers. In June and July, females lay up to 100 eggs at night in the soft sand
See-deh), which shares a beach-
sand and shallow water – is a gentler,
framed peninsula with Roman
self-guided walk in the footsteps of St.
ruins and a white, marble temple
Nicholas at Patara, his birthplace. If
to which Antony and Cleopatra
walking alone, don’t stray more than two
sailed for a tryst. For adventure,
or three kilometres from the entrance.
head into the mountains to shoot
The following tour agents are experts
the rapids down Köprülü Kanyon,
at organising customised treks:
a wild gorge washed by a flooding
Bougainville Turizm (Ka¸s )
green river carrying rubber rafts
bougainville-turkey.com
crewed by helmeted, life-jacketed
Middle Earth Travel (Antalya)
thrill-seekers.
middleearthtravel.com
History and derring-do have
Mithra Travel (Antalya) mithratravel.com
always thrived along the Turquoise
Özkan Ya¸s ar ozkankas@hotmail.com. Private
Coast. They still do. <
eco-guide who helped map the Lycian Way.
Turkey’s Mediterranean holiday
Tom Brosnahan wrote the first
In the UK, book with onfootholidays.co.uk
metropolis. Broad beaches
Lonely Planet Turkey. He now writes
Also visit trekkinginturkey.com
– Konyaaltı to the west, Lara to
turkeytravelplanner.com
Suzanne Swann
great Roman port to become
22
walking them alone.
TURKEY 2008
turkey Ancient cities, modern living
Turkey Summer/Autumn 2008
Published by Publicom International on behalf of Turkish Culture and Tourism Offi ce, 29-30 St James’s, London Office, SW1A 1HB, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 (0)20 7839 7778 (information and brochures only) email: info@goturkey.com www.goturkey.com
COMPETITION
www.goturkey.com
Free holiday in Fabled istanbul!
An unForgettable weekend for two
Editor Michael Watts Art director Nick Brown Sub editor Nicky Gyopari Picture editor Karin Mueller Contributors Barbara Nadel Tom Brosnahan Virginia Maxwell Sharon Croxford Fulya Ozlem Peter Sommer Lucretia Stewart Suzanne Swan Cover A view of Ortaköy and the Bosphorus bridge/ gototurkey.co.uk Images Corbis/Alamy/gototurkey.co.uk/goturkey.com/ 4CornersImages/Camera Press/Gamma/ Tosfed/Peter Owen Publishers/Getty Images/ Christopher Wise/Burdur Museum, Turkey/Hulton Archive/Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd/Spike Pictures/Skysports-turkey.com/SIME/Arco Images GmbH/Tips Images/Imagestate/superstock.com/ Nature Picture Library/Sidali-Djenidi Repro Keenes London Printers St Ives Direct Limited, Bradford 2008. While everyevery effort effort has been ensure © Publicom PublicomInternational International 2008. While hasmade beentomade thatensure the information is correct, the is author and the publisher cannot be held to that the information correct, author and publisher responsible for any inadvertent inaccuracies or omissions. Hotel prices, cannot be held responsible for any inadvertent inaccuracies or restaurant menus opening times ofmenus local attractions can change omissions. Hoteland prices, restaurant and opening timeswithout of notice; it is always advisable to check with the venue or the tourist information local attractions can change without notice; it is always advisable to office in advance. Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those check with the venue or the tourist information office in advance. of Turkish Culture and Tourism Office or Publicom International. Turkey Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Turkish Summer/Autumn 2008 is wholly protected by copyright and nothing may be Culture Tourism Offi ce or Publicom Turkey wholly orand partly reprinted without permission.International. Manuscripts, transparencies and illustrations are submitted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. Printed by St Ives Direct Limited, Bradford.
informAtion for your trip Capital: Ankara Currency: 1 Turkish lira = 0.42 GBP Telephone code: 00 90 Time: GMT + 2hrs History: Earliest known inhabitants: 7,500 BC Geography: 3% in Europe, rest in Asia Climate: In Istanbul, temperatures average 30º C in July and August; moderate, September to December Etiquette: Always remove shoes before entering a home or stepping on a mosque’s carpets. Don’t point your finger directly at anyone Words: Hello Merhaba. Yes Evet. No Hayir. Please Lütfen. Thank you Te¸sekkür ederim. Flat bread Pide. For hotels: See turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr
Here’s your chance to enjoy one of Europe’s biggest, oldest and most dynamic cities Istanbul, a city that straddles Europe and Asia, has been chosen as European Capital of Culture in 2010. This former Ottoman capital has a wealth of cultural treasures, including the highly picturesque Blue Mosque, the Topkapı Palace, home of sultans down the centuries, and the Grand Bazaar, with its 58 streets and 6,000 shops. Competition winners will be escorted on a tour of these and other major sights. Istanbul has a buzzing nightlife, luxurious shopping and wonderful restaurants. Great antiquities abound. Ancient Troy is only a day’s journey away. You will stay for three nights in the magnificent Ritz-Carlton hotel (above right), which is within walking distance of the Beyo˘glu district, with its cultural attractions and designer shops. Breakfast is included. The prize includes a return flight for two to Istanbul on Turkish Airlines, leaving London on a Thursday and coming back on Sunday. The competition is open from today, July 19, until August 15. The winner can enjoy his/her trip any time between September 1 and December 12. Good luck! Iyi s¸anslar! Terms and conditions The competition is open to all residents of the UK aged 18 and over, except for employees of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office [TCTO], Turkish Airlines, Publicom International and participating agencies, and the families of any of the above. No entries will be accepted after midnight, August 15, 2008. Entries are limited to one per household. Incomplete entries will be disqualified. The organisers accept no responsibility for non-receipt or loss of entries. All entries become the absolute property of TCTO. Entrants must allow their name and entry to be published by TCTO on www.goturkey.com and agree to take part in post-competition publicity.Entries can be submitted by post, using the entry slip below, or on the website www.goturkey.com. No other correspondence will be entered into. Prize-winners will be notified by TCTO within three weeks of the winning prize being drawn. The competition prize is not transferable. TCTO reserves the right to amend these rules at any time, without prior notification. The winners will be drawn at random. No cash alternatives will be offered in whole or in part for any prizes offered. TCTO reserves the right to change the prize to one of equal value, should circumstances require it. The prize is subject to date restrictions and availability. Personal details will not be passed onto third parties or other organisations without prior permission of the entrants, unless the conduct of the competition requires it. Prize Draw Rules are governed by UK law.
#
To enter the competition, see www.goturkey.com or fill in this form Turkish Culture and Tourism Office, 4th Floor, St James’s Street, London SW1A 1HB, UK Title
Mr
Mrs Miss Ms q q q q
Other.........................................................................
First Name..............................................................................................................Initials..................................................... Surname................................................................................................................................................................................. Address................................................................................................................................................................................... Postcode.....................................................................................................................DOB.........../.........../...........(dd/mm/yy) Daytime contact number......................................................................................................................................................... Mobile number*...................................................................................................................................................................... Email*.....................................................................................................................................................................................
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