Guide to Turkey

turkey

summer/autumn 2008

Ancient cities, modern living

Istanbul Capital of Culture, 2010 Byzantine CHurCHes OttOman mOsques rOman treasures

LIfe & stYLe Hip destinations authentic food Cool shopping Chic hotels

trOY tOWn

4,000 years of history

ADventures on the turQuOIse COAst

Paragliding, sailing, watersports

WIn A HOLIDAY In IstAnbuL! the world’s most popular city break. Page 23

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EllEn RoonEy / Axiom

The insider’s Turkey

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contents

4 ISTANBUL Capital of Culture, 2010 6 A unique, historical city 10 Ten sights not to miss 12 Restaurants, hotels, clubs 14 Day trip: the Princes’ Islands 15 TURQUOISE COAST Holiday highlights 16 Activity sports 18 Lycian rock tombs 20 Ancient cities 22 Walking tours 23 Competition

FABULOUSsee PRIZE! page 23 Win a brilliant trip for two to Istanbul, one of the world’s most famous cities, and great for sightseeing, food and shopping

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Past, present, future: from the ancient ruins (Aphrodisias, right) and stunning coastline (top) of the southwest to an Istanbul cherryseller (left) and ultra-modern restaurants like Topaz (above)

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Turkish Airlines (THY) fly three times a day from London Heathrow to Istanbul, and once daily from London Stansted.

It takes about three hours, 45 minutes. Pegasus, Easyjet and BA all fly there. Several chartered and low-cost airlines go to Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya. The famous Orient Express no longer runs, but it is possible to retrace the original route from Paris using four trains. For hotels, see www.turob.org; for travel agents, www.tursab.org.tr

www.goturkey.com

No.1 city break

capital of culture

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1. turkish rugs Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

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events 2008 July - December

Istanbul’s historic areas are already a World Heritage Site. In 2010, when the city becomes a European Capital of Culture, visitors will encounter ancient and modern, in perfect harmony

turkey 2008

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is best for carpets 2. ancient troy the ruins of the city (with emblematic wooden horse) are a day’s excursion from Istanbul 3. Bosphorus beauty the Strait separating Europe from Asia is lined with desirable houses 4. Kemal atatürk founder of modern Turkey and its first president 5. turkish grand prix part of the F1 circuit since 2005, it’s staged on the new Istanbul Park Circuit 6. old and new The Dolmabahaçe Palace, foreground, in Be¸sikta¸s, with five-star Swiss hotel behind 7. orhan Kemal Turkey’s greatest posthumous author is now published in the UK 8. angling, Bosphorus Fishing for istavrit, or mackerel 9. whirling dervishes performances Wed–Mon at the Galata Mevlevihanesi 10. fashion star haute couture by Istanbul-born Rifat Ozbek 11. Young turks the national football team was the surprise sensation of Euro 2008 12. nuri Bilge Çeylan winner of Best Director award at Cannes 2008 for his film Three Monkeys 13. Vintage tram, istiklal Kaddesi runs between Beyo˘glu and Taksim

capital of culture

2010

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Swimming the BoSphoruS July 20, 10am-1pm Annual Asia-to-Europe competition, organised

by Turkey’s Olympic committee, for swimmers of all ages. It begins in Kanlica, in Asian Istanbul, and ends in Kuruçeþme Cemil Park, on the European side: a distance of 6.5km. hadrian: empire and ConfliCt British museum, london. July 24-october 26 This well-preserved marble bust of Hadrian (right)

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is an important discovery, made only last summer at Sagalossos, an ancient city in southwestern Turkey, where his cult was worshipped. The blockbuster exhibition is devoted to the Roman emperor, who reigned 117-138 AD. portraitS from the empire pera museum. Sept-Jan

Tate Britain’s current Lure of the East exhibition, depicting Ottoman society from the 18th to 20th centuries, transfers to Istanbul’s landmark museum. pm.org.tr deSign CitieS istanbul modern art museum. till august 10 Major history of design, from 1851 until now: 109 works by 64 designers. The exhibition comes to London’s Design Museum on September 5. istanbulmodern.org

www.goturkey.com

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The life and soul The Süleymaniye Mosque: overlooking the Golden Horn

Mysteries of

Istanbul

Award-winning crime novelist Barbara nadel on the city that has obsessed her for more than 30 years

IsTanbul

Istanbul There is a small OTTOman graveyard on the corner of one of Istanbul’s major thoroughfares, Divan Yolu, between the Grand Bazaar and the Topkapı Palace. It lurks quietly behind walls of ornate stone, largely overlooked. Whenever I go there, which is often, I am the only visitor.

Sometimes I wonder what the old and ever-vigilant custodians of this little graveyard think of me. I’ve been coming back to this deserted place, alone, for so very, very long. I first visited Istanbul in the mid-1970s, when the city, if not this graveyard, was rather different. Back then, there were still women around who had lived in a sultan’s harem. The buses were dirtier, and European hippies stopped off in Istanbul on their way to Kathmandu for sex, drugs and enlightenment. Now the city has tourists, boutique hotels and fine dining. Not that Istanbul could ever lose its original magic.

AndreA Pistolesi / tiPs imAges

I always head straight for the mausoleum at the northeastern corner.

Gravestones in the Ottoman era, which lasted over 600 years (until 1923), were gender-specific: a stone turban for men, a carved veil for women. This mausoleum contains the tomb of Turkey’s last absolute Ottoman ruler, Sultan Abdül Hamid II (1842–1918). Abdül Hamid, pictured above, tried to hold his foundering empire together while wrestling with an anxiety u

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The life and soul

Galata Bridge Sirkeci Station Spice Bazaar

u disorder so severe that he eventually became

I go ‘toWhenever the Bazaar, I

Grand Bazaar Topkapi Palace

a prisoner in his own palace of Yıldız. In spite of

ISTANBUL

Aya Sofya

his errors, I have a soft spot for him. He stands for

Blue Mosque

so much of what I perceive to be the essence of

BOGAZICI BRIDGE

BESIKTAS

Istanbul: clever and witty, looking to the future

EUROPE

BEYOGLU Ho den Gol

but rooted in the past, fabulous yet almost self-indulgently melancholic. The Istanbul detective

rn

of my own books, Çetin Ikmen, could be described

GALATA

B

ASIA

rus

ho

p os

GALATA BRIDGE

USKUDAR

’

SULTANAHMET

in just those terms. It is his love of Istanbul that drives him to protect it.

think about the time I was lowered through a hole in the floor of one of the many teahouses

Sea of Marmara PRINCES’ ISLANDS

The old diplomatic quarter

KADIKOY

After the mausoleum, I am drawn back to the Grand Bazaar, but not to buy things. Whenever I

labyrinthine as any Arabian souk. Little shops in

go, I think about the time I was lowered through

blind alleyways offer fancy hats, military medals

a hole in the floor of one of the Bazaar’s many

and publicity pictures of old Turkish movie stars.

My Inspector knows these serpentine alleyways

teahouses. Below was a Byzantine cistern. A pencil torch in my mouth illuminated row upon row of

well. He chases gangsters and murderesses down

perfect 1,000-year-old-arches.

a great many of them. Istanbul is full of such places, hidden and in shade, which is why its great,

workshops that cluster around the domes in the

open spaces can overwhelm. On the ferries full of

Bazaar’s vast roof. I’ve been up there with a carpet

commuters that ply the Horn and the Bosphorus,

dealer (unusually, a woman) and with men recently

the views are of imperial mosques and fantastical,

returned from hair-raising trips to buy carpets in

waterside palaces, like the vast rococo Dolmabahçe

Afghanistan. For me, the Bazaar has become less

Palace on the northern shore of the Bosphorus.

about shopping and more about the possibility of further adventures in its darker recesses.

I always return to the district of Beyo˘glu; my liking

The mighty Sultan To the north and east of this lies the green splash

is positively an addiction. It lies on the north side

that is Yıldız Park, and in the middle of that is the

of the Golden Horn, across from the ‘old’ Byzantine

palace of Abdül Hamid II. Standing on the deck of

district of Sultanahmet, and stretches from Karaköy

a ferry, one can speculate on how a mighty sultan

to the hub of Taksim Square. Beyo˘glu is ‘new’ – that

lost his grip upon both his mind and his empire.

is to say, from the 19th century – and has a much

The day’s research done, I like to make for the

more Western feel, at least in parts. It was the

bars and restaurants of Nevizade Sokak in Beyo˘glu.

diplomatic quarter when Istanbul was capital of the

As well as the excellent food and drink, there is live

Ottoman Empire, and there is much about it that

music and fascinating people to watch. I will top

is louche, faded and distinctly belle époque. People

this off with a nargile, or water-pipe, at one of the

from the embassies used to shop on the Grand Rue

many cafés by the Bosphorus at Tophane.

de Pera, now called Istiklal Caddesi.

There I close my eyes and dream of what may

Here are churches of almost every possible denomination, and restaurants run by the descendants of White

HAMAMS

will return to my graveyard and Abdül

Russian ballerinas. It’s also the

The famous Turkish bath-houses

somewhere new for Çetin Ikmen to run

scene of a horrific house fire in my

are gender-designated – erkekler

around after bad types? Whatever I choose

first Çetin Ikmen book, Belshazzar’s

(men) and kadinlar (women)

ALAMY

Daughter. But just because

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happen on my next day in Istanbul. Maybe I Hamid once again? Or maybe I’ll look at

to consider, it always makes me smile. <

East-End born Barbara Nadel has written

Beyo˘glu is comparatively ‘new’

10 books in her series about Çetin Ikmen,

and ‘European’, one should not be

a chain-smoking, hard-drinking detective

fooled. The alleyways and staircases

in Istanbul. They have been translated into

that surround its fish market are as

several languages, including Turkish.

TURKEY 2008

StreetS ahead Barney Fisher-Turner enjoys local fast food When I moved to Turkey four years ago, I tried every kind of food, even a pre-emptive hangover cure involving hot bowls of tripe soup spiked with fresh garlic and vinegar. But most days I’d have a sesamecovered simit, an inexpensive snack similar to a bagel that is usually eaten with a cup of black tea, or çay, sold by tea sellers balancing brass trays (pictured below).

Street food is one of the joys of Istanbul, a world away from the inauthentic kebabs that we see in the UK, and the best way to enjoy it is to walk the streets. The other day I strolled to Taksim Square, past the dozens of simit-sellers, and along Istiklal Caddesi to Tünel, a small district full of shops and restaurants.

Canım Ci˘g erim is a famous shish establishment specialising in barbecued lamb and liver pieces, served with a spicy tomato salsa called ezme and air-puffed bread called lavas, which is usually eaten with meze dishes, or

Istanbul

ISTANBUL

I think, too, about the tiny storerooms and

appetisers. With it, I had a yoghurt drink called ayran that combines beautifully with any grilled meat.

After lunch, I took a boat across the Bosphorus to Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul. As soon as we pulled away, waiters swished around the deck, offering strong, dark çay. Half an hour later, I was treating myself to a barbecued mackerel with red onion sandwich and a bottle of ¸s algam, a refreshing sour, spicy drink made from turnips.

Not a pitta bread in sight!

Barney Fisher-Turner works as a food stylist in Istanbul and writes for Forbes magazine

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10 cultural highlights

48hours in istanbul

If time is short, head straight for these architectural glories

Aya Sofya Museum

Be¸sikta¸s

Ghostly battalions of carp

After leaving Topkapı, the

swim alongside as you pass

Ottoman sultans came to

across the wooden walkway

this 19th-century monolith,

though this huge Byzantine

whose ostentatious décor

cistern, the largest of

includes a four-tonne

several hundred that lie

chandelier presented by

beneath the city. Its water

Queen Victoria. Houses the

supplied Topkapı Palace

Museum of Fine Arts

Blue Mosque The Hippodrome,

Topkapı Palace Babihumayun Caddesi

Kariye Camii Kariye Camii Sokak,

Sultanahmet

Turkey’s number-one

Edirnekapi

One of the city’s greatest

tourist attraction. The

AKA the St Saviour in

architectural attractions

official residence of the

Chora, it’s a 12th-century

and so-called because of its

Sultans from 1465 to 1853,

church in western Istanbul.

beautiful blue-tiled interior,

it was constructed around

With luminously beautiful

the mosque was built in

a complex of courtyards,

mosaics and frescoes

1603–17 on the site of the

with grand reception halls.

depicting the life of Christ,

Its wonders include Islamic

it’s compulsory for all

armoury, art and jewellery

lovers of Byzantine art

Great Palace of Byzantium.

Detail of Medusa head

The ‘Church of Holy

and don’t miss...

converted into a mosque by Mehmet the Conqueror,

Luis Castaneda / tips images

Caddesi 13

Sultanahmet district

AD 537 and later

is considered the apogee of Byzantine architecture, with its soaring dome and gold mosaics

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Dolmabahçe Palace Dolmabahçe Caddesi,

Closed at prayer times

Wisdom’, built in

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Basilica Cistern Sultanahmet, Yerebatan

ISTANBUL

ISTANBUL

Few cities have Istanbul’s long and illustrious history. It grew from a fishing village to become prosperous Byzantium. By AD 330, it was capital of the Roman Empire.

In Constantinople, as it was called, charismatic emperors such as Theodosius the Great and Justinian built grand civic and religious monuments. Finally, in 1453, Christianity gave way to Islam, and the Ottomans began establishing the impressive mosques and palaces we can visit today.

By Virginia Maxwell, author of Lonely Planet’s Istanbul City Guide

Archaeology Museum and Museum of the Ancient Orient Osman Hamdi Bey Yoku¸su, Gülhane Park Home to the imperial palace collections, the Archaeology Museum has finds from Ephesus and Troy, as well as the exquisite Alexander Sarcophagus (right). The Museum of the Ancient Orient has important

Anatolian, Mesopotamian and Egyptian artefacts Museum of Turkish & Islamic Art Atmeydani Sokak, near the Hippodrome Once the residence of Süleyman the Magnificent’s Grand Vizier, the restored palace now has one of the world’s best collections of Islamic items, particularly antique carpets dating

from the 13th century and significant manuscripts and miniatures Pera Museum Mesrutiyet Caddesi 141, Beyo˘glu It’s worth veering off the famous promenade of Istiklal Caddesi to visit this privately-endowed museum, notable for ‘Orientalist’ paintings influenced by 19thcentury European art, especially Osman Hamdi Bey’s famous The Tortoise Trainer.

Süleymaniye Mosque Professor Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi.

Near Istanbul University’s north gate Often held to be the finest of all Ottoman mosque complexes, it was designed by the great 16th-century architect, Mimar Sinan, for Süleyman the Magnificent, and sits atop one of Istanbul’s seven hills. It retains its original soup kitchen (now a restaurant) and functioning hamam (bath-house)

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Life and style

restaurants

CLUBS

by sharon croxford

BY FULYA OZLEM

A typical lokanta: delicious pre-cooked dishes dominate inexpensive menus

in IN his HIS excellenT EXCELLENT documenTary, DOCUMENTARY,

hosts live gigs from singer-songwriters and jazz musicians, as well as DJ nights,

HOTELS

in a converted bakery with high, frescoed

Istanbul hotels range from the spectacular (and

ceilings and a stage setting resembling

expensive) Les Ottomans, on the European shore of the

‘The Phantom of the Opera’. ghettoist.com

Bosphorus, to the many beautifully converted wooden

A street away is peyote, Peyote, an institution on Istanbul’s alternative rock scene. It has

city. Even if you don’t stay there, it is educative just

Fatih Akin, Turkey’s most famous film film

three floors: floors: On the first first there are DJs, the

having a drink in grand establishments with wonderful

director, focuses on local legend Selim

second has live music, and the third is a

waterfront views like the Çiragan Palace. For hotels,

Sesler playing with Turkish rappers and

rooftop bar with ambient sounds (10,

grunge rockers. Sesler’s

Kameriye Sokak, Beyo˘glu. myspace.

roots music is a Tuesday

com/peyotenevizade).

night feature at araf, Araf, Caddesi, the long street in

W Istanbul

there is 360, a restaurant

Suleyman Seba Caddesi 22,

off Taksim Square, where

beautiful people hang

Akaretler,

much of Istanbul’s popular

out. As its name suggests,

Be¸sikta¸s.

nightlife is to be found. Rooftop venues in tall, 19th-century buildings are

it offers a panorama of Istanbul from the top of its

whotels.com/ istanbul £££ Currently the coolest hotel in the city, the recently

At Araf, high above the tiled roofs, you

‘Bomb Baby’ in hand (that’s vodka, fresh

opened W combines luxury with Ottoman glamour. A

can perform your own belly dance to the

watermelon, mint and cardamom), you

short walk from the Bosphorus and even closer to the

wails of Sesler’s gypsy clarinet. There is live

step through its large glass doors and

smart shopping district of Ni¸santa¸sı.

‘world music’ almost every night, ranging

watch as, far below, great vessels ply the

There is a popular misconception Prices: £= £10pp; ££= £20pp

restaurant in trendy Asmalımescit. Dishes

Refik, Refik, which opened in 1954, is one of

from Sephardic canticas to Armenian

Bosphorus between Asia and Europe.

Ayasofya Mansions

that Turkish cuisine consists of

Çiya Güne¸slibahçe Sokak 43, Kadıköy.

are laid out on the bar. Fashion designer

Istanbul’s best. Signature dishes include

virtuosos of the duduk (a traditional reed

360istanbul.com

Sogukçesme Sokak, Sultanahmet.

nothing more than a döner kebab.

ciya.com.tr ££

Hussein Chalayan is allegedly a regular.

hamsibugulama (fish (fish steamed in season)

instrument) such as Suren Asaduryan. This

It is so much more. Istanbul’s

This famous establishment, in the Asian

Mavi Kö¸se Lokantası (aka Köfteci

and kara lahana dolmasi (stuffed cabbage).

is a city where you can hear Madonna’s

seventh-floor seventh-floor bar/restaurant leb-i Leb-i derya Derya in

A reliable and charming pension, occupying nine

cuisine is a rich combination of

district of Kadıköy, is devoted to the

Arnavut) Mürsel Pa¸sa Caddesi 155, Balat.

Hamdi Tahmi¸s Caddesi. Kalçin Sokak

Music sung by the operatically-trained

the Tünel district, where drinks include the

restored houses and situated right by Topkapı Palace,

rustic Anatolian cooking with the

cuisine of Southeast Anatolia but remains

Tel. +90 212 531 6652 £

17 (next to the Spice Bazaar), Eminönü.

Sertab Erener, winner of the 2003

exotic ‘Yasak Elma’, a mix of Martini, vodka,

so ideal for sightseeing. Rooms are furnished in

sophisticated dishes of the Ottoman

highly eclectic. Culinary archaeologist

Istanbul’s best köfte (meatballs), to

Tel. +90 212 528 0390. ££ (food only)

Eurovision Song Contest, or be swept

Cointreau and apple juice. The dinner menu

19th-century Turkish style.

is big on steak. lebiderya.com < Fulya Ozlem is a Turkish singer-songwriter

Empress Zoe

Also great for views and cocktails is the

ayasofyapensions.com ££

Palace and the centuries’ old

Musa Da˘g deviren is the humblest

my mind, comes from this tiny corner

The view over the confluence confluence of

away by the ‘Arabesque’ strains of Müslüm

kitchens of Istanbul’s elite.

celebrity chef you will ever meet. Alcohol

restaurant in Balat, along the Golden

the Bosphorus and Golden Horn is

Gürses and Orhan Gencebay. araf.com.tr

isn’t served but there’s a surprising range

Horn. Cooked to perfection, served with

spectacular, and the Arab-Kurdish food

and film-maker, film-maker, whose debut album was

Adliye Sokak 10,

of sherbets. Highlights are diyarbakir

fresh tomato slices, bread stacked up

isn’t bad, either. Order the içli köfte

situated at one end of the Fish Market,

released last May. To listen to Fulya’s songs,

Sultanahmet.

Empire, together with diverse

guvec (lamb, tomato and aubergine

next to it, the tiny meat patties melt in

(stuffed, fried köfte) and lahmacun (a

on Kalyoncu Kulluk Caddesi in Beyo˘glu. It

visit: myspace.com/fulyabuzkralicesi

recipes learnt from the cooks of

stew) and kuru sebze domalsi (aubergine

your mouth. Locals eat them with creamy

tiny, crispy dough base, topped with

conquered lands, have created a

stuffed with rice and lamb).

yoghurt or white beans in oil.

minced lamb, parsley and piquant tomato.

cuisine that many rate one of the

Adem Baba Satı¸s Meydanı Sokak 2,

Refik Refik Sofyalı Sokak 10, Tünel.

Pandeli Misir Carsisi (Spice Bazaar) 1,

world’s best. Golden pilaffs and

Arnavütköy. adembaba.com £

Tel. +90 212 243 2834 ££ (food only)

Eminönü. Tel. +90 212 527 3909.

city, with a lovely

exotic casseroles of lamb and dried

The day’s catch, accompanied by a

Meze (especially fish fish dishes), rakı and

Lunch only. ££

little garden and terrace. Built above a 15th-century

fruits, spiced with cinnamon, honey

simple salad (no alcohol), is on offer

live music are characteristic of meyhanes,

An Istanbul institution, and admittedly

bathhouse, rooms are small but perfect.

and rosewater helva, represent just

at this cheap fish fish restaurant, located

Turkey’s traditional bar/restaurants.

a bit touristy, Pandeli must be visited if

a little of that legacy.

in the beautiful Bosphorus village of

The sheer abundance of produce from the far reaches of the Ottoman

Pandeli: typical Turkish fare on top of the Spice Bazaar

Similar diversity is demonstrated at Ghetto,

Leb-i Derya: an open terrace offers stunning views of the Bosphorus

emzoe.com £ A moderately priced, restful B&B in the old

only for its wonderful, blue-and-white

Pera Palas

tiled rooms, set above the arched

Mesrutiyet Cad. 98-100, Beyo˘glu.

entrance to the Egyptian Bazaar. Its

perapalace.com. £££

Istanbul is an amazing place for

Arnavutköy. Customers come back again

a foodie, though dining out can be

and again for its amazing ‘fast-food’ fish. fish.

a little hit-and-miss, particularly

Helvetia Lokanta General Yazgan Sokak

seabass en papillote is a classic. <

A very famous 19th-century ‘oteli’, built in the grand

around the busy historical sites.

12, Tünel. Tel. +90 212 245 8780 £

Sharon Croxford is a writer, photographer

European style to accommodate passengers from

However, here are seven places that

Predominantly traditional, vegetarian

and chef who co-founded the Istanbul Food

the Orient Express. You cannot fail to be impressed

are highly recommended. <

cooking at this small but busy corner

Workshop, recreating Ottoman recipes

by all the old-world bling.

turkey 2008

ISTANBUL

19th-century building on Istiklal Avenue.

a distinctive feature of this area.

ISTANBUL

Prices: £££ = £200+; ££ = £70-£150; £ = £70-£100

cosmopolitan tastes, and bar where the

the Beyo˘glu district, leading

Christopher Wise

see turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr

For more

a rooftop bar off Istiklal

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pansiyons (guest houses) in the heart of the old

Crossing the Bridge: The Sound of Istanbul,

www.goturkey.com

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★

A day trip from the city

Blue voyages

Prince charming: at weekends, Istanbul’s holidaymakers throng the streets of Büyükada

aegean sea

turquoise coast bodrum marmaris

antalya

dalaman

phaselis

fethiye

A journey Along

kalkan

H

kas

finike

Mediterranean

the turquoise coast Tom Brosnahan explores the scenery and civilisations of Turkey’s southern coast, from Bodrum to Antalya u

ISTANBUL

turquoise coast

Exiles in paradise Even Trotsky loved the gentle Princes’ Islands. By Lucretia Stewart THE PRINCES’ ISLANDS are an

one of the many fine, wooden mansions

on the terrace of the Splendid Palace

archipelago of nine small islands in

that adorn the island.

Hotel, built in 1906. The hotel manager,

Even on weekends, when day trippers

the Sea of Marmara, between 15

surge off the ferries to spend the

They have a long history of settlement

day picnicking in the pine woods or

by Armenian, Greek and Jewish

besieging the restaurants, Büyükada

Calm and car-free

communities seeking political refuge.

never really loses its tranquillity. It seems

Of the three other inhabited islands,

to have an innocent, Edwardian quality,

all served by public ferry, Heybeliada

the most beautiful and remote. It means, literally, Big (büyük) Island (ada), and was once a place of exile for disgraced patriarchs and Byzantine princes.

Now it is the prime resort for city-dwellers escaping Istanbul’s summer heat, rather as the Hamptons are for New Yorkers. It is also a

details

partly because there are

(‘Saddlebag Island’), is the most

no cars, only horse-drawn

attractive, with decent restaurants open

faytons and hired bicycles,

all-year-round. It’s a place of forests,

Getting there Less than two hours by ferry from Sirkeci, pier no.5 Where to stay Büyükada: Splendid Palace Hotel (below). splendidhotel.net. The terrace is a great place to meet for a drink. Heybeliada: Merit Halki Palace. merithotels.com.

Both hotels closed in winter.

For hotels, see turob.org

although there is now an

hills and fine beaches. On the northwest

Internet café.

coast is a good, if expensive, club for

Businessmen return home

watersports. Walking and cycling are

from a hard, hot day in

also popular. There are no cars here,

Istanbul while their wives

either, and on the smallest island,

languidly fan themselves

Kinaliada (‘Henna Island’, after the red

on their balconies and

cliffs), not even faytons.

nursemaids chase after small

Finally, there is Burgazada, which has some charm, as well as a museum

early evening, couples, old

dedicated to novelist Sait Faik, the

here from 1929 to 1933

and young, stroll arm-in-

‘Turkish Mark Twain’. However, Büyükada

and wrote his History of the

arm, the free arm holding an

is the undisputed prince of Princes’. <

Russian Revolution

ice-cream cone; and elderly

Novelist and journalist Lucretia Stewart

at 55 Çankaya Caddesi,

ladies play cards and gossip

spent her childhood summers in Istanbul.

Leon Trotsky (above) lived

TURKEY 2008

Mediterranean eyrie: With pine-covered mountains enclosing deep fjords, the turquoise coast stretches for nearly 1,600km. one of the best ways to appreciate it is to take to the sea by yacht or gulet alamy

children in sailor suits. In the

place of historical pilgrimage:

ALAMY

them his ‘gold’ ladies.

and 30km southeast of Istanbul.

Büyükada is the largest, and also

14

who has been there for 30 years, calls

www.goturkey.com

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H

Bodrum ™ Marmaris

u Turkey’s wesTern MediTerranean

toppled by an earthquake. Its shaped stones

coast may be the ‘new’ destination for holiday

were later used to strengthen the castle walls,

travellers, yet it’s among the oldest civilised

its marble statues crushed and burned to

places on the Med; indeed, it’s the birthplace

make lime for mortar.

of the ‘Father of History’, Herodotus.

Along this Turquoise Coast, the marble ruins

Luckily, in 1846, the British ambassador to the Sublime Porte, Lord Stratford de Redcliffe,

of Hellenistic and Roman cities, the churches

received permission from the Sultan to claim a

of the Byzantines and the castles of the

portion of Mausoleum frieze portraying battle

Crusaders stand amid date palms and liquid-

between Greeks and Amazons. The Crusader

amber pines, and near to broad beaches of

knights had spared this work and installed

shingle or sand. Coastal villages and towns

it in the castle. Today, the frieze is preserved

have preserved much of their past because

in the British Museum, along with several

for so long they were inaccessible. For three

fragments of statuary from the Mausoleum,

millennia, access was always by sea. Modern

also removed with imperial permission.

Now, in one of history’s ironies, easy access

Lunch, swim and a nap

by road has meant a huge increase in visitors;

As Turkey’s premier riviera resort, Bodrum

yet the city-dwellers who arrive by car or bus

today is all about sleek yachts, trendy

then cast off and sail away on ‘Blue Voyages’,

bars and restaurants, fancy boutiques and

as the Turks call yacht cruises.

nightclubs with sound and laser-light systems

On our journey, let’s start at Bodrum, where

of seemingly nuclear power. Those in search

yachts cluster beneath the crenellated walls

of calmer evenings escape to the little fish

of the Castle of St Peter, which was occupied

restaurants lining the quiet bay of Gümüslük,

by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem during

on the western shore of the Bodrum

the 1400s and early 1500s. Climb a maze of

peninsula, or go farther north, to the small

stone ramps and stairs to the English Tower

towns of Yalikavak, Gölköy and Türkbükü.

to see its banqueting hall bearing the arms

turquoise coast

turquoise coast

roads were built only in the past few decades.

Ferries connect Bodrum with the

of King Henry IV and graffiti from the English

Re¸sadiye Peninsula that extends west from

knights who defended it until 1523, when the

Marmaris for 100 km, marking the informal

armies of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent

demarcation between the Aegean and

caused their retreat to Malta. Then look out

Mediterranean. At the peninsula’s tip stands

from the tower parapet at a wonderful view of

ancient Knidos, a rich, Dorian city dating

Bodrum’s two perfect, small bays, lined with

from around 400 BC. A great cult statue of

restaurants and shops.

Aphrodite by the famed Praxiteles once stood on the promontory where the winds change

seventh wonder of the world

from westerly to northerly, forcing mariners

Stones in the castle walls tell an even older

to spend time in its port – as did St Paul on his

story. Some were taken from the Mausoleum,

journey to Rome and eventual trial.

the monumental tomb of King Mausolos of

Modern mariners come

Caria (377–353 BC) that was ranked among

here on day-cruises from

the Seven Wonders of the World in ancient times. The tomb that lent its name to monumental

have lunch, a swim, a nap in the

masonry stood intact for

sun, a drink beneath the sheltering

1,500 years before being

16

Marmaris. They drop anchor in Knidos’s pristine little bay and

turkey 2008

awning at the stern, and then a leisurely ramble through the ruins ashore. u

High adventure: with its panoramic views, Ölüdeniz beach (top) is one of the best places in the world to paraglide; for those who prefer watersports, there’s whitewater rafting in Köprülü Kanyon, a gulet cruise (far left) or a visit to the lovely Duden Falls, 15km north of Antalya (left). Wildlife is abundant: herons (opposite) can be seen in summer For hotels, see turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr

www.goturkey.com

17

H

Marmaris ™ Fethiye Life aboard: some coastal areas can only be reached by sea. Chartering a gulet and taking one of Turkey’s famous ‘Blue Voyages’ means stopping wherever you want, if only to take a leisurely dip in the warm waters

Motor launches ‘chug down the rushlined Dalyan Creek, past cliffs hewn with Lycian rock tombs, to ancient Kaunos

’

u Marmaris, a fishing-and-citrus farming

village less than 50 years ago, is now one of the Turquoise Coast’s most active resorts. Its splendid natural bay, ringed by tall palms and resort hotels, was where Admiral Nelson prepared his fleet for

TURQUOISE COAST

turquoise coast

battle with Napoleon at Abukir, Egypt, in 1798. Today, it’s busy with broad-beamed gulet yachts on charter, and speedboats dragging raucous holidaymakers on inflatable ‘banana’ boats.

Locals know that the place to escape

through the town, development of new regional resorts is booming. Most travellers

to the placid town of Köyce˘giz, on the

are on their way to Marmaris, 100km west, or

northern shore of the lake bearing that

Fethiye, 58km east, with only a small number

name. Small hotels and pensions dot the

stopping at Göcek, the beautiful little yachting

The Turquoise Coast offers many dive packages,

quiet lakeshore. Motor launches chug

port just a short drive east of Dalaman.

with or without gulet cruises. Water temperature

diving boats. Emergency decompression facilities

varies from 18ºC in May to 30ºC in August.

are shared. Pack your dive log if you have already

towards the Sultaniye Kaplıcaları, the

FABULOUS PRIZE!

18

Win a trip for two to Istanbul, one of the world’s greatest and most ancient cities and the old, imperial capital of Turkey

turkey 2008

Most diving companies own excellently equipped

Gulets, a Turkish delight

The diving season runs mostly from April to

clocked up diving hours. Only Turkish citizens can

the rush-lined Dalyan Creek, past cliffs

Göcek, on Fethiye Bay, is at the centre of

November, but in Ka¸s, for instance, it goes on

dive independently in Turkish waters. Foreigners

hewn with Lycian rock tombs, to ancient

‘Blue Voyage’ sailing routes, which carry

pretty well all-year-round.

can join any of the diving

Kaunos and the splendid, broad sand

tourists along the miles and miles of pine-

beach at Iztuzu.

clad shoreline from Bodrum to Antalya, past

abundant fish, but there are octopus, stingray and

In Ka¸s

islands and fishing fishing villages and ancient ruins.

morays, as well as sea cucumbers, loggerhead

Anemone Diving Centre

Marine life is typical of the Med, so don’t expect

schools below.

The prime craft for such a voyage is the

turtles, caves, wrecks, drop-offs and tunnels

anemonediving-kas.com

Dalyan, to the south of the lake, makes its

gulet, or traditional coastal boat. Built not

to explore, and a night dive is a supernatural

Dragoman Travel

living by hosting visitors in small inns and

for speed but for comfort, broad-beamed

encounter. Don’t miss, in particular, the submerged

dragoman-turkey.com

hotels and taking them on river and lake

gulets offer plenty of deck space for lounging,

archaeology park off the coast of Ka¸s; and at

Ka¸s Diving kas-diving.com

cruises. Busier than Köyce˘giz, with more

sunbathing and dining. A spacious saloon

Antalya there’s a wreck of a hospital ship from WWII,

Mavi Diving mavidiving.com

restaurants and shops, it’s esteemed by

and ample cabins are below decks. They may

though historical sites are often legally off-limits.

Naturablue Sporting naturablue.com

those wanting less bustle than Marmaris

include private heads (washrooms) and even

Well-regulated diving schools are in Bodrum,

but more than Köyce˘giz.

personal showers, air conditioning, standard

Ka¸s , Marmaris, Kalkan and Fethiye, catering

European Diving europeandiving.co.uk

electrical points and, of course, all modern

both for beginners and for divers on specialist

Bodrum

safety and navigation devices.

Advanced and Divemasters courses afflliated

Yunus Diving yunusscuba.com

to PADI (Professional Association of Diving

Içmeler/Marmaris

Southeast along the coast from Dalyan is Dalaman, a farming town with the largest airport west of Antalya, which

The town of Fethiye, on the southeast side of

Fethiye

receives flights from all over Europe.

Fethiye Bay, was founded 2,500 years ago as

Instructors) and/or CMAS (Confédération

Divers Delight diversdelight.com

With so many holidaymakers streaming

Telmessos. Today, it has little to show for u

Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques).

Suzanne Swann

www.goturkey.com

JONNY LE FORTUNE / ZEFA / CORBIS

WWW.supersTock.com

see page 23

…and explore the many undersea ruins

thermal spa and mud baths, then down

Göcek, a beautiful little port

Tomb with a view: the Lycians, the ancient people of Anatolia, cut tombs for their dead in the soft limestone cliffs that line coasts and rivers. There are more than 1,000 still intact.

They believed that the souls of their dead would be borne away by winged sirens

SPLASH OUT ON DIVING LESSONS

the crowds is an easy drive to the east,

19

H

Fethiye ™ Demre

u its antiquity: it was devastated in

The lovely beach at Ölüdeniz is just over

populations following World War I. It

1957 by the latest in a long series of

the hills to the south. Not far beyond it is

is now preserved as an atmospheric

earthquakes that left only its tall, Lycian

Butterfly Valley, a dramatic, fjord-like cove

monument to that time. A footpath

sarcophagi still standing, like the Cenotaph

with its own small beach that’s a popular

starting here will take you down the

at Whitehall, as memorials to the past.

anchorage for yachts. And Fethiye is

mountainside to Ölüdeniz.

The Tomb of Amyntas, a temple facade

also the trailhead for the Lycian Way, a

carved from the cliff above the town,

500km waymarked walking route across

Greco-Roman remains of Tlos, Pinara,

would seem to symbolise the town’s

the mountains to Antalya that was the

Sidyma, the Letoon temple, Xanthos and

stubborn resistance. And yet, most visitors

brainchild – and gift to the world – of

Patara. Xanthos yielded some of its best

are coming not for antiquities but for sun,

Kate Clow, a Briton living in Turkey.

art pieces to British archaeologists in

sea and sand, which they find northeast

Walkers can also start a morning

Within an easy drive of Fethiye are the

1842, and they are now preserved in the

of Fethiye at Çalis Beach, a shingle strand

ramble in the eerie ghost town of

British Museum. At Patara, the native town

several kilometres long.

Kayaköy, further south. Once a thriving

of St Nicholas (later morphed into Father

Ottoman Greek town called Levissi, its

Christmas), ancient ruins rise just inland

the natural and archaeological riches of

2,000 stone houses and several churches

from what is Turkey’s best beach, some

the surrounding coast and countryside.

were abandoned in the exchange of

50 metres wide and 20 kilometres long.

Fethiye makes a good base for visits to

turquoise coast

Turkey has more well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins than Greece and Italy combined.

Here are six of the best sites on the west and southern coasts. By Peter Sommer

20

turkey 2008

The origins of Santa Claus

shore of Üçagiz village is marked by the

Inland, at Saklikent Gorge, a narrow rift

Lycian pedestal sarcophagi familiar in

in the mountains, 18km long, ensures

Fethiye, while Kaleköy nearby, a hamlet

icy-cold waters that flash with fish. Hiking

in the shadow of a hilltop fortress, is the

into the cool gorge, far from the sun’s heat,

favoured landing-place for lunch. Cruises

and lunching on fresh trout makes for an

continue on to Kekova (or Tersane) Island

excellent excursion.

and more Byzantine ruins, unexcavated and

EPhESuS (EfES) 3km from Selçuk, and

KaunoS 30 minutes by boat from

near the port of Ku¸sadasi

Dalyan; 27km west of Dalaman airport

The best-preserved classical city of the

The boat taking you from Dalyan snakes

Eastern Mediterranean, Efes was home to

through emerald-green waters to the

the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven

monumental rock tombs of Kaunos,

Wonders of the World. In its Roman

hewn from the sheer rock face in the 4th

heyday, it had marble streets, a theatre

century BC by ancient Carians. Abundant

for 28,000, and a beautiful library

wildlife includes flamingoes in winter

– a good reason to make the effort.

aPhroDiSiaS 1.5km from Geyre

aryKanDa 1km from arif, on the

village, cascading down the mountainside

unrestored, and engendering the feeling

Named after Aphrodite, the goddess of

finike–Elmali road

to a pristine small harbour, is a favourite

that you are the first person in modern

love, to whom a great temple was built

Dubbed the ‘Turkish Delphi’ because of

with Brits who own or let villas here. You’ll

times to look upon them.

here in the 1st century AD. The Temple,

its breathtaking location on five large

hear plenty of English spoken at dinner

which became a Christian basilica in the

terraces of a mountain slope, this Lycian

tables in the many waterfront restaurants.

5th century, has been partially restored.

city has it all – Roman baths, tombs, a

It has the world’s best-preserved sports stadium, which held 30,000 people

Driving on, the neighbouring towns of Kalkan and Ka¸s, at the southernmost extent of the Tekke Peninsula, mark the mid-point between the airports of Dalaman and Antalya. They are a bit more difficult to get to, which means that fewer people go

‘

Hiking into the cool gorge, far from the sun’s heat, and lunching on fresh trout makes for an excellent excursion

’

Kalkan, a photogenic Ottoman fishing

A few more kilometres to the east, the town of Demre has a large Roman theatre

Ka¸s is larger, with a greater variety

and dramatic Lycian cliff tombs, but its

theatre, stadium and Byzantine mosaics

of hotels, inns and pensions, and more

greater claim to fame is that St Nicholas

– without the crowds of its Greek cousin

frequent transport. It also has the

lived here and was buried in the church. His

ruins of the ancient Lycian town

statue (left) stands in the church garden.

of Antiphellos and, clearly visible

Ancient Myra, nearby, takes its name

KniDoS 38km west of Datça

aSPEnDoS nr Belkis, 47km from antalya

In antiquity, tourists came to see

Follow a track until the massive arches of

Praxiteles’ 4th-century BC statue of

a 19km-long aqueduct soar above you:

Aphrodite, a lifelike female nude. The

a stunning feat of engineering. There’s

site is hard to reach by land but is

also a Roman theatre that’s still used in

glorious in aspect when approached by

summer for the International Aspendos

sea. Boats leave regularly from Datça in

Opera and Ballet Festival. operabale.

season; the round trip takes six hours

kultur.gov.tr/aspendos

out to sea, the Greek island of

from myrrh, the aromatic resin whose high

Kastellorizo (Megisti in Greek,

price made its fortune and led to Nicholas

Meis Adası in Turkish).

becoming its bishop in the 4th century.

Ka¸s also has lots of boats for

turquoise coast

Turkey’s buried Treasures

Marmaris: pretty street in the old town of this busy port

Legend has it that he took pity on young

day excursions to the sunken

women too poor to marry and secretly

Byzantine ruins of Teimiussa,

dropped bags of gold coins down their

at Üçagiz to the east. The

chimneys. These ‘gifts from heaven’ may u

www.goturkey.com

21

★

Finike ™ Perge

TOP WALKS u have inspired the Christmas story that Santa

the east – frame the city, and rugged cliffs rise

The Lycian Way pioneered ‘geo-tourism’

comes down the chimney with presents.

from its historic Roman harbour. At its centre

in Turkey, along with its more rugged

stands a statue of King Attalos II of Pergamum,

relative, the St Paul Trail. The long-distance

coastal road heads north to the site of

who founded the city of Attaleia here in 159 BC.

footpaths are expertly marked with red-white

ancient Olimpos, where Roman ruins hide

The Antalya Museum houses the archaeological

paint flashes every 100m or less, but only

among the pines and budget travellers can

wealth of the region’s rich history.

experienced trekkers should contemplate

After the town of Finike to the east, the

lodge in tree-house hostels with all comforts

Antalya’s old town, situated

provided, including cold lager and fast Internet

within the harbour’s Roman

The Lycian Way

connections. The shingle beach at Olimpos is

fortifications, is full of Ottoman

snakes for 509km over

also pleasant and uncrowded, with welcome

houses, legally protected against

the Toros mountain ridge,

shade and basic services close by.

modern development. Built

from Fethiye to Antalya,

around verdant courtyards,

becoming more challenging

Antalya’s old Ottoman houses

many are now delightful

towards Antalya. It takes

At Çirali, a few kilometres north of Olimpos,

boutique hotels.

in seascapes and suggests

TURQUOISE COAST

the eternal flames of the Chimaera rise from

detours to ruins not found in

the earth. Although small and weak today, the

Antony and Cleopatra’s tryst

most guidebooks. Be sure to use the book

flames were a famous beacon to mariners in

Within a short drive of Antalya are some of

and maps of Kate Clow, who marked the

ancient times. They are actually methane gas

the Turquoise Coast’s most impressive and

Way in 1998-9 and has also adapted maps

seeping and self-igniting.

enjoyable sights. My favourite is the mountain

for Turkey’s military. lycianwaywalk.com

Few travellers detour south to Çavu¸sköy,

aerie of Termessos, a Hellenistic city with a

Best time to walk: Sept to mid-Nov

which is what gives this little-known village its

great stone theatre, built high in a cirque of

The St Paul Trail follows the route

appeal. Here, small hotels and pensions line a

the mountains, north of Antalya’s fertile plain.

walked by St Paul on his first missionary

pretty bay, and the pace of life is restful. But

Its spectacular views were just a bonus for the

journey in Asia Minor. It goes from Yalvaç,

north from Olimpos, the influence of Antalya,

Termessians. The real point was defensive: the

northeast of Lake E˘g irdir, to Perge, with a

the largest city on Turkey’s Mediterranean

city’s mighty walls and its position, spreading

second branch starting at Aspendos, 40km

coast, becomes apparent. The road widens,

up the narrow valley for 2km, kept even

east of Antalya – about 500km in total. It’s

traffic increases, and the last haven of calm

Alexander the Great from attempting conquest.

arduous, and there are no accommodation

is Phaselis, where the remains of a Roman

To the east of Antalya, along the coast, are

or refreshment stops. Mountaineering

city lie scattered on the shores of three idyllic

more ancient cities, grand ruins and long,

equipment is essential, as is a GPS device

small bays. A large remnant of aqueduct still

soft beaches. They include the Roman city of

– and stamina. stpaultrail.com

impresses, and signs forbidding picnicking

Perge, the almost-intact Hellenistic theatre at

Best time to walk: mid-Jun to end Oct

are largely ignored because it is so obviously

Aspendos, and the town of Side (pronounced

The St Nicholas Trail – 18km of

the perfect spot.

Then on to Kemer, a gleaming white resort town 50km south of Antalya. It was purposebuilt to accommodate tour groups and has since grown and prospered. To its north, at Beldibi, are several large hotel complexes that take advantage of the shingle beach, pine forests and dramatic views of the Beydaglari mountains.

Antalya itself grew from a

go see…

Loggerhead Turtles Giants as long as 3.5 feet are to be found at Iztuzu Beach in Dalyan, earmarked for development until it was found to be one of the last Mediterranean nesting grounds for this endangered species.

Restricted visiting times, from May to September, have helped raise numbers. In June and July, females lay up to 100 eggs at night in the soft sand

See-deh), which shares a beach-

sand and shallow water – is a gentler,

framed peninsula with Roman

self-guided walk in the footsteps of St.

ruins and a white, marble temple

Nicholas at Patara, his birthplace. If

to which Antony and Cleopatra

walking alone, don’t stray more than two

sailed for a tryst. For adventure,

or three kilometres from the entrance.

head into the mountains to shoot

The following tour agents are experts

the rapids down Köprülü Kanyon,

at organising customised treks:

a wild gorge washed by a flooding

Bougainville Turizm (Ka¸s )

green river carrying rubber rafts

bougainville-turkey.com

crewed by helmeted, life-jacketed

Middle Earth Travel (Antalya)

thrill-seekers.

middleearthtravel.com

History and derring-do have

Mithra Travel (Antalya) mithratravel.com

always thrived along the Turquoise

Özkan Ya¸s ar ozkankas@hotmail.com. Private

Coast. They still do. <

eco-guide who helped map the Lycian Way.

Turkey’s Mediterranean holiday

Tom Brosnahan wrote the first

In the UK, book with onfootholidays.co.uk

metropolis. Broad beaches

Lonely Planet Turkey. He now writes

Also visit trekkinginturkey.com

– Konyaaltı to the west, Lara to

turkeytravelplanner.com

Suzanne Swann

great Roman port to become

22

walking them alone.

TURKEY 2008

turkey Ancient cities, modern living

Turkey Summer/Autumn 2008

Published by Publicom International on behalf of Turkish Culture and Tourism Offi ce, 29-30 St James’s, London Office, SW1A 1HB, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 (0)20 7839 7778 (information and brochures only) email: info@goturkey.com www.goturkey.com

COMPETITION

www.goturkey.com

Free holiday in Fabled istanbul!

An unForgettable weekend for two

Editor Michael Watts Art director Nick Brown Sub editor Nicky Gyopari Picture editor Karin Mueller Contributors Barbara Nadel Tom Brosnahan Virginia Maxwell Sharon Croxford Fulya Ozlem Peter Sommer Lucretia Stewart Suzanne Swan Cover A view of Ortaköy and the Bosphorus bridge/ gototurkey.co.uk Images Corbis/Alamy/gototurkey.co.uk/goturkey.com/ 4CornersImages/Camera Press/Gamma/ Tosfed/Peter Owen Publishers/Getty Images/ Christopher Wise/Burdur Museum, Turkey/Hulton Archive/Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd/Spike Pictures/Skysports-turkey.com/SIME/Arco Images GmbH/Tips Images/Imagestate/superstock.com/ Nature Picture Library/Sidali-Djenidi Repro Keenes London Printers St Ives Direct Limited, Bradford 2008.

While everyevery effort effort has been ensure © Publicom PublicomInternational International 2008.

While hasmade beentomade thatensure the information is correct, the is author and the publisher cannot be held to that the information correct, author and publisher responsible for any inadvertent inaccuracies or omissions.

Hotel prices, cannot be held responsible for any inadvertent inaccuracies or restaurant menus opening times ofmenus local attractions can change omissions.

Hoteland prices, restaurant and opening timeswithout of notice; it is always advisable to check with the venue or the tourist information local attractions can change without notice; it is always advisable to office in advance. Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those check with the venue or the tourist information office in advance. of Turkish Culture and Tourism Office or Publicom International. Turkey Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Turkish Summer/Autumn 2008 is wholly protected by copyright and nothing may be Culture Tourism Offi ce or Publicom Turkey wholly orand partly reprinted without permission.International.

Manuscripts, transparencies and illustrations are submitted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. Printed by St Ives Direct Limited, Bradford.

informAtion for your trip Capital: Ankara Currency: 1 Turkish lira = 0.42 GBP Telephone code: 00 90 Time: GMT + 2hrs History: Earliest known inhabitants: 7,500 BC Geography: 3% in Europe, rest in Asia Climate: In Istanbul, temperatures average 30º C in July and August; moderate, September to December Etiquette: Always remove shoes before entering a home or stepping on a mosque’s carpets. Don’t point your finger directly at anyone Words: Hello Merhaba. Yes Evet. No Hayir. Please Lütfen. Thank you Te¸sekkür ederim. Flat bread Pide.

For hotels: See turob.org; for travel agents, tursab.org.tr

Here’s your chance to enjoy one of Europe’s biggest, oldest and most dynamic cities Istanbul, a city that straddles Europe and Asia, has been chosen as European Capital of Culture in 2010. This former Ottoman capital has a wealth of cultural treasures, including the highly picturesque Blue Mosque, the Topkapı Palace, home of sultans down the centuries, and the Grand Bazaar, with its 58 streets and 6,000 shops. Competition winners will be escorted on a tour of these and other major sights.

Istanbul has a buzzing nightlife, luxurious shopping and wonderful restaurants. Great antiquities abound. Ancient Troy is only a day’s journey away.

You will stay for three nights in the magnificent Ritz-Carlton hotel (above right), which is within walking distance of the Beyo˘glu district, with its cultural attractions and designer shops. Breakfast is included. The prize includes a return flight for two to Istanbul on Turkish Airlines, leaving London on a Thursday and coming back on Sunday.

The competition is open from today, July 19, until August 15. The winner can enjoy his/her trip any time between September 1 and December 12. Good luck! Iyi s¸anslar!

Terms and conditions The competition is open to all residents of the UK aged 18 and over, except for employees of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office [TCTO], Turkish Airlines, Publicom International and participating agencies, and the families of any of the above. No entries will be accepted after midnight, August 15, 2008.

Entries are limited to one per household. Incomplete entries will be disqualified. The organisers accept no responsibility for non-receipt or loss of entries. All entries become the absolute property of TCTO. Entrants must allow their name and entry to be published by TCTO on www.goturkey.com and agree to take part in post-competition publicity.Entries can be submitted by post, using the entry slip below, or on the website www.goturkey.com. No other correspondence will be entered into. Prize-winners will be notified by TCTO within three weeks of the winning prize being drawn. The competition prize is not transferable. TCTO reserves the right to amend these rules at any time, without prior notification. The winners will be drawn at random. No cash alternatives will be offered in whole or in part for any prizes offered. TCTO reserves the right to change the prize to one of equal value, should circumstances require it. The prize is subject to date restrictions and availability.

Personal details will not be passed onto third parties or other organisations without prior permission of the entrants, unless the conduct of the competition requires it. Prize Draw Rules are governed by UK law.

#

To enter the competition, see www.goturkey.com or fill in this form Turkish Culture and Tourism Office, 4th Floor, St James’s Street, London SW1A 1HB, UK Title

Mr

Mrs Miss Ms q q q q

Other.........................................................................

First Name..............................................................................................................Initials.....................................................

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Address...................................................................................................................................................................................

Postcode.....................................................................................................................DOB.........../.........../...........(dd/mm/yy) Daytime contact number.........................................................................................................................................................

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23