Khajuraho of Assam: Madan Kamdev Temple of Baihata Chariali: A Historical Research and Review Guptajit Pathak
Abstract Madan Kamdev is historically, culturally and naturally very rich place in Assam. The ruins of Madan Kamdev Temple have resemblances with the Khajuraho Temple of Madhya Pradesh. It is situated at Bezera Block in Kamrup district (Rural) at the top of Dewangiri hills. ‘Kamrup’ the ancient name of Assam, is believed to have derived its name from the legend the ‘God of Love’ or Madan. Scattered all around the Dewangiri hillock with an idyllic backdrop of green hills and flowing rivulets are griffins, nymphs, dancing fairies, gods and goddesses in cosmic evolutions, walls, pillars, lintels and door frames decorated with flowers, animals, Kalpa-vriksha, six sided Bhairava, four headed Siva, Demons, Serpents and men, women and animals in every conceivable erotic posture, all in ruins of gigantic proportion– that is Madan Kamdev. It is believed that Kama or Madan, the God of Love was reborn in this place after being turned into ashes by the angry Lord Siva. Some scholars think that Madan was reborn and united with his wife Rati upon this tiny hillock. According to some other historians it is a romantic association as numerous erotic sculptures are found here. Madan Kamdev belongs to the Pala Dynasty, between 10th to 12th centuries A.D. Key Words: Ancient, Assam, Kamrup, Madan Kamdev, Temple.
Introduction Madan Kamdev is an archaeological site. The rich natural beauty, serenity and unusual flora and fauna of the area are invaluable and additional resources of the place. The place is endowed with diverse tourist attractions and each State has its own distinctive features. The archaeological cite dates back to 9th and 10th century A.D. Excavation indicates the affluence and might of Pala Dynasty of Kamrup. Madan Kamdev is an enigma, a mystery, a marvel which addresses about the ancient Kamrup. The attractions are scattered over the entire place and are largely located in remote areas within highly fragile environments. These attractions and the people of the place constitute the tourism resources at large. The facilities for accomodation, food, shopping and entertainment are improving gradually. Madan Kamdeva is situated nearly 40 kms. away from Paltanbazar, Guwahati (heart of the city)– the gateway of North-East and 4 kms. from Baihata Chariali on National Highway 52. Lokopriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport at Borjhar is about 40 km away from Madan-Kamdev. It can be reached by railways too. The nearest rail-station is Guwahati which is connected by other major places like Delhi, Kolkota, Mumbai and so on. Madan Kamdev is very well connected with adjoining regions via bus services. For accommodation, there are guest houses that are very convenient with all modern facilities and different foods near Madan Kamdev. As Guwahati is only few kilometers away from the place, one can easily visit the spot while staying in Guwahati.
Aims and Objectives 1. To highlight how Madan Kamdev Temple similar to Khajuraho Temple. 2. To foucus the prospects and potentiality of Madan Kamdev Temple and its surroundings. Importance of the Study 1. Madan Kamdev is a scenic place for the tourists and a marvel speaking the glory of Assam’s medieval era. 2. The temple is called for ‘God of Love’.
3. Madan Kamdeva temple has an exotic beauty.
Research Methodology The research paper is based on survey and descriptive method. The study is a micro-level study. The primary data are collected through a well designed schedule of questions. A cross-section of the people is interviewed to get first hand knowledge of the area. The secondary sources are i.e. books, articles, journals, magazines, newspapers, periodicals, pamphlets, paper clips, internet, websites and different types of collections.
Madan Kamdev Temple: The Khajuraho of Assam It is believed that Kama or Madan, the ‘God of Love’ was reborn in this place after being turned into ashes by the angry Lord Siva. According to some researcher Madan was reborn and united with his wife Rati upon this tiny hillock. Madan Kamdev is a romantic association as numerous erotic sculptures are found here. The Archeology Department of Assam has confirmed that the ruins of 10th to 12th century A.D. when the Pala Dynasty ruled Kamrupa. The ruins are believed to be the remains of more than twenty temples consigned to Lord Shiva. Probably there will be another place in India except Khajuraho and Konark, where the basic weaknesses of mortals caught in fear, doubt, love, jealousy and consummate passion have been so eloquently expressed. Figuring that arrest time and remain ageless proclaiming eternal yearning for Love and Joy. Every curved surface here is vibrant with fervour of joy-dee vivre which transformed rocks into living, breathing, dancing beauty– a timeless dream on silent rocks. Madan Kamdev is romantic association to palace, because of the different erotic sculptures. Most of the priceless images of Madan Kamdev were either stolen by curio hunters and by religion-duped villagers without realizing the real values. The surviving area of Madan Kamdev highlights that these were perhaps the finest medieval temples ever built in the entire Brahmaputra Valley. Hence, it continues to remain an archeological challenge. Archaeologists were pleased when the thick foliage around the temple was cleared in 1977, revealing ruins of dozens of temples, made of brick and stone, believed to belong to the 11th or the 12th century, besides rare sculptures. In 1986, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) took over the conservation work of the temple from the State Government and highlights Madan Kamdev Temple has striking resemblance to the great 10th-11th century Khajuraho temples in Madhya Pradesh. Different people come here from different places. To welcome the picnickers and other pilgrims, the surroundings of the historic devalaya has been prepared. A number of spots for preparing feast by the picnickers have been arranged. The white washing of the roadside trees and some other rocks are on to draw the attention of the visitors. To make drinking water available to the pilgrims and visitors, the tube wells are installed in different locations of the devalaya campus. There is a museum here maintained by the Directorate of Archaeology, Government of India, which is known for its rich archaeological relics. Assam Bio-Resource Centre adjacent to the Madan Kamdev Temple on the bank of Madan Kuri River where visitors can see an orchid aquarium and a cactus house which has huge varieties of colourful orchids and cactii of different types, shapes and sizes blooming in the green house. There is a botanical garden where several medicinal plants and some other plants which are on verge of extinction are preserved orderly and the guards of the garden have arranged them in a series so that visitors do not have trouble seeing them. Likewise, the ‘Shiva Guha’ located to the north of the Madan Kamdev main temple amidst teak trees where a tunnel existed which connected the Gopeswar mandir and ‘Parvati Kotha’ has been cleaned and the path to the spot spruced up. Each year between the months of November to February, thousands of visitors come here to enjoy the panoramic beauty of the temple and its surroundings, but its seems that Madan Kamdev the ‘Khajuraho’ of the North-East, has never been properly focused on by the government, even though there is unlimited
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potential of this historical place which were built in the 11th-12th centuries A.D. It is assumed that, this was an important religious place once upon a time as a large number of temples are found here. The water tank that has been found indicates the existence of a residential area in ancient times. Archaeologists studied the hills, plains and streams in the area. Some more temples of stones and bricks were observed when the thick jungle near the temple was cleared that were completely in a ruined state. The ruined temple has a sculpture of the god Shiva and the goddess Uma. This god and goddess pair is still worshipped by the people but they call them “Madan-Kamdev” and thus the temple and the place are known as Madan Kamdev. In ancient times, Assam and its surrounding area was known as Pragjyotisha or Kamarupa. The mighty Brahmaputra River which flows through Assam was known as the Lauhitya. Most of the Indophiles (who has a strong fondness towards anything and everything that has to do about India) are well up to date with the cave temples of Khajuraho, as it has become one of the top Khajuraho of Assam: Madan Kamdev Temple in Baihata Chariali tourist attractions after Taj Mahal– the epitome of Mughal art and one of the most famous buildings in the world. Khajuraho is gradually becoming a brand name now. However like all other temples in India that belongs to the same genus, the fortune of Madan Kamdev is inadequate to reach to that status of Taj Mahal or Khajuraho.
An Archaeological Wonder The skeleton of 13 temples including the main temple is spreading over a vast area measuring a length of half a kilometer. Madan Kamdev, highlights the glorious years of a lost kingdom. The art in the sculptures in the temples depict expressions of erotic acts which can only be seen in the famous Khajuraho temples of Madhya Pradesh. The sculptures take account of embraced postures of Madan (Uma) and Kamdev (Maheswar), instinctive acts of elephants, lions, human and other animals. These erotic sculptures fill the walls of the temple which is an architectural sensation. The temples also includes beautiful statues of six-headed Bhairav, four-headed Shiva, six-headed Vishnu, Kalpavriksha, various Apsaras etc. along with the resembling sculptures of Khajuraho. It will be imperfect considering Madan Kamdev as only an archeological wonder, but an Eden inside the green forests of Dewangiri hill. The charming beauty and chirping birds around the carcass of temples turns it into another paradise on earth. There is a vast marshy land in the west side which is extended to the Gopeswar hill. The river Madankuri flows below the Dewangiri hill. As mentioned earlier there are mythological accounts of the Madan Kamdev. According to the myth, Lord Shiva burnt the ‘God of Love’ i.e. Kamdev to ashes for troubling his tapas. It is believed that Kamdev later is reborn in this place. However the true history of Madan-Kamdev is still under cover for the historians and archeologists. The first evidence of some carcass in the Madan Kamdev was reported by British Captain Daltan in 1855 in his article that was published in Asian Society of Bengal. He was mentioning the ruins of around 15 lost temples in the place. But in the following periods further research work was not carried out thoroughly. In the year 1949, again Taranikant Sarma in Assam Research Society magazine tried to breathe new life into the history of the land. However, the Madan Kamdev came to sleep again until 1976 when Archeological Directorate of Assam took some initiatives regarding the same. Finally an exploration mission was held and which revealed the concealed treasure of the world. According to the archeological pattern these were believed to be belongs to the era of Pala dynasty in Assam providing a thin a reason to believe that the temples were constructed by the Pala kings. However is hard to draw a firm conclusion as there are no hard evidences and any inscriptions found in Madan Kamdev. There is still a large possibility of excavation in Madan Kamdev and the hope for discover more concealed treasures present of the region.
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Some Photographs
Entrance of Madan Kamdev
Sculpture of Madan Kamdev Temple
Sunset view of Madan Kamdev
An overview of the site of Madan Kamdev
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Ruins of Madan Kamdev
Editor Guptajit Pathak at the temple
Some Major Findings of the Research Paper are: 1. The carcasses of Madan Kamdev have been taken away by the people of nearby villages. 2. The result of blasting on the hill, migratory birds, which use to visit the area in winter, are changing their routes. 3. Most of the ruins are covered by grass and shrub. 4. People have destroyed original colours of sculptures by putting different colours. 5. In the month of December and January more and more visitors visit this place. 6. There is lack of accommodation facilities for the tourists. 7. There is lack of proper transportation in this area. 8. Lack of awareness among the local people to preserve the monuments of tourist spots in its original form. 9. Ruins are kept in a neglected position. 10. Government failed to promote the area as a tourist destination of Assam.
Some Propositions for the Future Research The following are the propositions in order to enhance Madan Kamdev Temple in the North-Eastern Region of India. 1. It is necessary to conduct a research study about the ruins of Madam Kamdev. 2. Positive participation of the local people for the development of the area will boost tourist potentiality.
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3. Accommodation, transport should be promoted to the locality. Government should invest more money in the area to convert the area into a tourist destination. 4. It is vital to preserve the ruins scientifically. 5. In the study area an eco-resort may be setup. 6. The area may be converted into nature paradise. 7. Rain water harvesting project may be provided to water scarcity of the hill track including Madan Kamdev. 8. It is necessary to setup parking facilities outside the monument location region. 9. It is important to set up a botanical garden in the area.
Conclusions Madan Kamdev is a historical, natural and cultural tourist destination of Assam. It is incomparable in its arts and beauty, it’s the true wonder of Brahmaputra Valley. It is often called the second Khajuraho of India as the erotic sculpture of Madan Kamdev resembles with Khajuraho temple of Madhya Pradesh. Hence, appropriate steps should be taken by the Government of Assam, to conserve this archaeological site both as a tourist destination and from the point of historical perspectives.
References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Bhatia, A.K. (2003). Tourism Development: Principles and Practices, Sterling Publishers Private limited, New Delhi. Chaudhury, P. (2006). Global Ayurvedic Village: A Boost to Tourism, August, 2006, A published article in The Assam Tribune. Deka, A. (1987). Madan Kamdev, Madan Kamdev Devalay Parichalana Samity, First Edition, 1987. Kalita, K. (2003, January). Madan Kamdev, Third Edition. Kakati, R. (2006). Destination India, August, A published article in The Assam Tribune. Kaptan, S. (2005, July). Sand Pimpale, Vinitaa, Medical Tourism, A published article in the Journal Yojana. Madan Kamdev at a Glance, Directorate of Archeology, Assam, 1992. Pathak, N. Ch. & Pathak, G. (2008). Ethno Culturalism of North East India, published by Sundry Magazines Publications, Kolkata, India. 9. Pathak, N.Ch. & Pathak, G. (2008). Assam History and Its Graphics, published by Mittal Publications, New Delhi, India. 10. Singh, R., Dynamic of Historical, Cultural and Heritage Tourism 11. Sharma, V. & Anand, N. (2004, June), Rural Tourism, Potential and Prospects, A published article in the Journal Kurukshetra.
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