WATC H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S
P A S S I O N AT E LY D I F F E R E N T
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG SWITZERLAND
THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINIT Y OF THE RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN. EUROPE’S L ARGEST WATERFALL AT TR ACTS VISITORS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD EVERY YEAR. AT AN AVER AGE FLOW, around 700 CUBIC METRES OF WATER PER SECOND CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS AND OFFER A SPECTACUL AR SIGHT.
CONTENTS
CON T EN TS
FOREWORD
9
10 13
T H E M O S E R WAT C H M A K I N G DY N A S T Y I N S C H A FFH AU S E N
H E I N R I C H M O S E R T H E WATC H M A K E R C O M PA N Y, B R A N D N A M E A N D S E A L
24
TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM
28
M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1
P E R P E T UA L C A L E N DA R A N D F L A S H C A L E N DA R
36
P erpetual M oon
C O M PA N Y H I S T O RY
VISIONS
CENTRE SECONDS M O S E R D ouble barrel
42
MONARD
50 58
M O N A R D DAT E
A LT E R N AT I N G 12- A N D 24 - H O U R D I S P L AY AU TO M AT I C PAW L W I N D I N G S Y S T E M
66
M AY U
T H E B ig date F R O M M O S E R
M eridian
WHEELS, PINIONS AND LE VERS H acking second
76
H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
84
LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS
90
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
S T R AU M A N N D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
TE AM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM T H E S T R AU M A N N H A I R S P R I N G ® INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART FINISHING
10 3
T I M E L I N E
10 8
IMPRINT
7
8
14-CAR AT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH WITH MINUTE REPEATER AND CHRONOGR APH, CA 1900
FOREWORD
FORE WORD It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to intro-
riod. Among other things, we were awarded the prestig-
duce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this new
ious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for our Moser
edition of our catalogue, although the origins of the com-
Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry Double
pany actually go back some 180 years. The history encom-
Hairspring with its revolutionary new escapement sys-
passes the life of my great-grandfather Heinrich Moser,
tem, and, most recently, the first Moser watch with auto-
born more than 200 years ago, who had already gained an
matic winding, have also found a place in our family of
international reputation as a watchmaker by the age of 21,
watches.
and the successful relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand in 2005.
It fills me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where he
At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his
used to work and to be able again to present watches that
research, the Schaffhausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange
are entitled to bear the name of such an important and
came across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one
innovative man.
of the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & C
ie
watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was delighted to accept the honourable task of representing the company externally. Today our thanks are due primarily to the friends of the house of Moser, who have remained loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our highly committed shareholders and employees. The new start would not have been possible without their keen interest and their passionate involvement. We can look back with pride over everything that has happened during this pe-
ROGER NICHOL AS BALSIGER HONOR ARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS MOSER GROUP AG SCHAFFHAUSEN, MARCH 2012
9
10
T HE MOSER WATCHM A K IN G DY N A S T Y IN SCH A FFH AUSEN Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking
More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town
town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th cen-
records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser
tury. Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter
(1730–1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would
of Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomi-
the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood
cal clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwagturm tower, which
the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in
is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and
the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected figure.
Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astronomical clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among the most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock by Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied Arts and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness to the artistic skills and refined craftsmanship of the watchmakers of that period. In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael Moser (1706–1783), the town once again produced a horological craftsman whose fame would spread beyond its boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts in later years.
TABLE CLOCK SIGNED «JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN», CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN
WATC H M A K I N G DY N A S T Y
He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the
IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaff hausen
trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsman-
alive for a great many years and with a very chequered
ship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in
history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial
the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him,
courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old»
Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupa-
H. Moser & Cie watch factory.
tion as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council and Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Hein-
The records tell us that the establishment of his watch busi-
rich Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Him-
ness in Schaffhausen was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong
mel» in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft.
dream. Now, more than 200 years after the birth of Heinrich Moser in Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise
The artistic skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon
which first set up in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has
gained him international respect and recognition. He be-
come full circle with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie
came the leading Schaff hausen exponent of this craft
brand.
with businesses in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among other locations. He opened a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he established a school for watchmakers in 1856. He supported F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) in 1868 by providing him with premises and low-cost electricity supplied via a power transmission system.
VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED «ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE» EARLY 19TH CENTURY
11
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
HEINRICH MOSER T HE WATCHM A K ER Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the
As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich
large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,
Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.
Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen
Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent
surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-
labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for
making dynasty consolidated over several generations. He
watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich
worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824, where
Moser used his free time to build watches and tools that
he learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his
would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the equiv-
father, and subsequently broadened his knowledge in the
alent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the time of
watchmaking town of Le Locle in western Switzerland. In
his departure in November 1827.
1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his own account and built clocks into cases and pieces of furniture for a
His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything but
German merchant. His plans to succeed to the position of
comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via
town watchmaker after the death of his father, a vocation
Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-
which had been performed by the family for two genera-
senger ship to St. Petersburg.
tions, were thwarted by the town council in Schaffhausen. He would hold this against the authorities for the rest of his life.
HEINRICH MOSER’S PASSPORT, DATING FROM 1872
13
14
GOLD MINUTE REPEATER BY HEINRICH MOSER, END OF THE 19TH CENTURY
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
After working for a number of employers as a watchmaker,
Urban JĂźrgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list
he founded his own company in St. Petersburg at the end
him as a regular customer from 1860.
of 1828. This marked the inception of the highly successful H. Moser & Cie brand. Alongside expensive precision
Heinrich Moser’s constant quest for quality was crowned
watches and watches designed as pieces of jewellery, Hein-
by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various
rich Moser also offered a range of simple watches.
princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a few years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and Japan,
In the course of developing his trading network, he real-
as well as New York and Paris, where his brother Georg
ized that a successful wholesaler would also benefit from
Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only 15 years
being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich Moser
after founding his company, Heinrich Moser was the un-
accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle in
disputed market leader in the Russian watch trade. He
1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his
returned to his home town of Schaffhausen as a prosper-
own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high
ous watch manufacturer and merchant at the end of 1848.
quality of the products bearing his name. He was later made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as a historic monument. In addition to the movements produced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased movement blanks from such prestigious companies as
BUSINESS DEALINGS WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS IN 1867 AND 1868
15
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life fol-
Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s oth-
lowing his return to Switzerland was also characterized
erwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a while.
by other projects combined with restless creativity. With
She would not live to see the completion of the Charlot-
his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation of
tenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which had been
the previously sleepy town of Schaffhausen into a dy-
named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly never able
namic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser com-
to reconcile himself to the fact that his only son, Henri
pleted the construction of a channel on the River Rhine,
Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of his father’s
which provided the water power to drive a turbine with an
watch business.
output of around 80 hp. This was followed in 1853 by a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities for
Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. Present-day
the establishment of Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei
visitors to Schaffhausen continue to experience the spirit
Schaff hausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaff hausen),
of Heinrich Moser. The house
which changed its name to Schweizerische Industrieges-
where he was born, known as the
ellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company
«Haus zum Blauen Himmel», and
Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also a co-founder of the
the Charlottenfels country manor
Schaff hausen–Winterthur railway line in 1853. In the
still exist. A modern power station
winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser embarked on the con-
now stands on the dam on the Riv-
struction of the largest Swiss dam at that time on the
er Rhine. The majority of the com-
River Rhine at Schaffhausen, which enabled him to sup-
panies founded by or with the sup-
ply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive
port of Heinrich Moser are
energy via a power transmission system. The subsequent
operating successfully to this day.
establishment of Wasserwerk Gesellschaft Schaffhausen
The residents of Schaff hausen
(Schaff hausen Waterworks Company) in 1865 marked
have honoured their fellow citizen
the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.
by naming Moserstrasse after him, with his bronze bust in the Moser-
His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich
garten park and, not least, with the Charlottenfels coun-
WATCHMAKER’S WORKPL ACE
Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private
try estate, which is open to the public. The top floor of
IN THE WATCH ROOM
life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable
this building now houses the Moser Family Museum,
disappointments. The premature death of his first wife
with a watch room full of testimonies to his tireless creativity.
CHARLOT TENFELS COUNTRY MANOR NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN, NOW THE SITE OF THE FAMILY MUSEUM
17
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
COMPA N Y, BR A ND N A ME A ND SE A L The fi rst internationally ac-
The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.
tive company founded by
Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and
Heinrich Moser in 1828 was
to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also
the St. Petersburg trading
in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood
company, H. Moser & Co.
for quality and met the highest expectations throughout
From this name, he devel-
the world.
oped the company signature in Latin and Cyrillic script,
Heinrich Moser also included
which was almost always accompanied by a seal. In 1829,
other watch companies among
he opened a watch factory in Le Locle under the name
his customers. For example, the
«H. Moser & Cie» or also «H. Moser & Co.». These trade
famous Fabergé table clocks
marks were used as the standard signature on all the watch-
were equipped almost without
es supplied by Moser’s watch business until around 1918.
exception with movements produced by Moser; even at that
His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser
time, incidentally, these clocks
personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only
had two spring barrels arranged
from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level.
in series.
FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK WITH MOSER DOUBLE BARREL MOVEMENT
SIGNATORIES OF H. MOSER & C IE DATING FROM 1842
19
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife Fanny sold the two businesses with the proviso that they would continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or «Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of the company name. The style «Hy Moser & Cie» was evidently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch factory had become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group as «Hy Moser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser watches has been in the antique market.
MINUTE REPEATER WITH PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND
The Russian operation had already been expropriated without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the stateowned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch businesses, from which a watch production facility of its own would eventually emerge. Moser watches continued to be regarded as synonymous with work of the highest quality for some considerable time afterwards. In 1966, the government of what was the USSR presented one of its highranking military officers with an original Moser pocket watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the expropriation and bearing an engraved dedication for his services to the implantation of communism. This watch is now back in the company museum. GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & C IE , IMPERIAL EAGLE IN COLOURED ENAMEL
BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS, CA 1870 TO 1890, L ANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN
MOON PHASE, CA 1870
21
C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY
Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,
Mechanical movements of the best quality, developed by
and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died
the company and used exclusively in its watches, combine
out in this branch of the family.
innovation with maximum customer benefit. Creative and horological traditions ensure that the new watches
Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich
also have a high degree of brand recognition.
Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private investors, founded the Moser Schaff hausen AG watch
The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary of
company in 2002. Dr. Jürgen Lange also registered the
Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie
original H. Moser & C brand again internationally.
brand has returned to Schaffhausen.
ie
The sites occupied by the company today are located, according to Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the immediate vicinity of the Rhine Falls. To this day, however, the extraordinary Moser watches are also produced in the Swiss Jura. Moser watches of the new era combine horological passion with authentic tradition.
PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS
THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE, BUILT AROUND 1900
23
TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM
VISIONS
V ISIONS At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Hein-
cholas Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two
rich Moser, who is well known in the region above all for
men decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie
his water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-
watch brand. The brand was registered internationally,
hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research
and Moser Schaff hausen AG was launched as a watch-
Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser
making company in a joint venture with other investors.
watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially
A subsequent merger of horological engineering compa-
interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & C
ie
nies resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the
watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,
present trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today
could nowadays only be found in the antique market. In
holds the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board
the course of his investigations, Dr. Jürgen Lange came
of Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational re-
across Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of
sponsibility for the business.
Heinrich Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for himself as a family historian in numerous publications. The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Jürgen Lange and the internationally active banker Roger Ni-
LINE DR AWING OF THE
MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION
ESCAPEMENT MODULE
MONARD MOVEMENT
ON A SEPAR ATE CARRIER PL ATE
CAL. HMC 343.505
27
MOSER PERPE TUAL 1
30
MOSER PERPE T UA L 1 A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a kind
The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to
never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1. Distin-
locate the central position of the crown for setting the
guished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the
date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of
most prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horo-
the hands with the crown in its outermost position.
logical industry. The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement modThis extraordinary watch of the new generation is eq-
ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was
uipped with the Moser double barrel and possesses a
used for the first time by Moser and assists the watch-
minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.
maker to reduce the length of the service times.
The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechani-
Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of
cal means to the various lengths of the months and the
the pallet fork and the escapement wheel in hardened
leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.
solid gold.
Only the easily legible, big date on the dial and the display of the month by a small hand from the centre of the
A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8
dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological mas-
mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed
terpiece he has before him.
side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a seethrough sapphire glass back give the watch its unmistak-
The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-
able appearance.
vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end of the current month to the start of the following month, without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date at all times, without any irritating distractions. If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch. Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in the process of changing the date. A unique safety mechanism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged if the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is adjusting the date backwards via the crown.
MONTH DISPL AY FROM THE CENTRE USING THE HOUR INDICES
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
31
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 004 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
33
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-006 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP
MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP
34
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.101- 009 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
moser perpetual 1
Perpetual Calendar and Flash Calendar The term «perpetual
The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull
calendar» is always ap-
Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set
plied to mechanical
reliably in the right position.
watches when the date, despite the different
The display for the leap year cycle of 4 years is visible on
lengths of the months,
the movement side of the watch through the convex sap-
is always correctly in-
phire glass back. The indicator star for the leap year cycle
dicated automatically.
can be adjusted as required by means of an unobtrusive
THE FL ASH CALENDAR NEVER
Including when Febru-
pin pusher on the outside of the case.
DISPL AYS ANY INVALID DAYS
ary has 29 days every four years. The Moser
Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day hand-wound movement with a perpetual calendar, which is adjustable forwards and backwards at any time without restriction via the winding crown in its central position. This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calendar», because it possesses the world’s only date display which changes directly from the last day of the current
IDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1
month to the first day of the following month without
WITH THE BUT TON FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR
displaying invalid days; regardless of whether the month has 30, 31, 28 or 29 days. In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calendar is only recognizable on the dial by the big date display and by the very restrained design of the central hand for the display of the month with reference to the twelve indices for the hours. LEAP YEAR STAR
35
PERPE TUAL MOON
38
PH A SES OF T HE MOON A special watch with a display of the phases of the moon,
In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display ac-
which deviates by only 1 day after more than 1,027 years.
curacy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the
It shows the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern
hour indicator and run with it continuously. Neverthe-
hemisphere in a large window on the dial. We see various
less, the moon phase can also be corrected using a pin
phases of the moon depending on the relative positions
pusher at 9 o’clock without interfering with the time dis-
of the moon and the sun. The phases are depicted in a
play. A wrap spring clutch – used here for the first time in
unique way on this watch, and can be adjusted, read and
a moon phase gear train – allows the time to be displayed
predicted accurately to the minute. One orbit of the
and the phase of the moon to be corrected without inter-
moon round the earth, which brings the moon back to its
ruption. The pin pusher moves one of the 8 moon phases
original position in relation to the sun, takes on average
forward on each occasion.
29.53059 days. To be precise, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. The Perpetual Moon’s complicated
Additional orientation between day and night is provided
gear train translates this interval so precisely that the re-
by a reduced display with a small central hand rotating
sulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day – or one
once every 24 hours. Together with a moon phase table
day after 1,027.3 years.
and the time setting appropriate for a particular phase of the moon, the current moon phase can be set accurately
The moon phase disc shows the currently illuminated
to the minute. The scale on the lower edge of the moon
phase of the moon as the light area in the window aper-
phase display lets you predict to the day when the next
ture. The dark area, on the other hand, represents the
full moon phase will occur. Each mark on the scale rep-
shadow of the earth. Together they make up the astro-
resents a day.
nomical phases of the moon, which all over the world are A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8
divided into eight quarters.
mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a seethrough sapphire glass back, together with the night-blue fumé dial, give the watch its unmistakable appearance. 1
2
3
1 New moon
5
4
6
7
8
5 Full moon
2 Waxing crescent moon
6 Waning gibbous moon
3 First quarter moon
7 L ast quarter moon
4 Waxing gibbous moon
8 Waning crescent moon
PERPETUAL MOON
39
PERPETUAL MOON REFERENCE NO. 348.901- 013 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPL AY MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
PERPETUAL MOON REFERENCE NO. 348.901-015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPL AY MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP
PERPETUAL MOON
CEN T RE SECONDS
MOSER DOUBL E BA RREL To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the designers have incorporated no fewer than two barrels into the movement. These are arranged in tandem, so that the power reserve is multiplied up to at least seven days compared with only a single barrel. The actual winding springs are made from an unbreakable and corrosion-resistant Nivaflex material with a selflubricating surface.
CENTRE SECONDS HAND AND 24-HOUR INDICATOR ORIGINATING FROM THE CENTRE
In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the
One of the distinctive features of the Perpetual Moon is
power reserve of the watch, a differential gear is con-
the seconds hand originating from the centre of the mo-
nected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the ring for
tion work. This has the advantage that the individual,
the power reserve display on the movement side moves to
one-second steps can be read more accurately thanks to
the right when the watch is running normally. When the
the great length of the hand.
watch is wound, however, the ring for the power reserve display will move to the left. This means that the actual
The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown
status of both winding springs in the barrels is always in-
with the help of the hacking second.
dicated. Noblesse oblige: both barrels from Moser are supported in screwed gold mounts. The gold mount itself is fi xed in the barrel bridge by three bright-polished steel screws. These screws are not blued, but white, as has always been the case with Moser.
WHEEL TR AIN WITH DOUBLE BARREL
MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901
SCREWED GOLD MOUNT
41
MONARD
44
MON A RD A classic watch with just three hands to indicate the time,
An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use
but incorporating a movement that is full of convincing
of an escapement module, a world-first. Its easy inter-
innovations and timeless beauty: the Monard from Moser.
changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning and servicing the watch.
The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appearance and the renunciation of all fashionable special effects.
The patented execution of the escapement wheel and pal-
Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of the spirit
let fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished work-
of the age, represented here by a case which is 40.8 mm in
ing surfaces to minimize friction is also an expression of
diameter and 10.85 mm thick, had not found a place in the
the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at Moser to
watch.
make something that is already special into something exceptional.
The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in conjunction with the very clear layout of the dial with a sun pat-
The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was
tern ground finish, ensure excellent legibility of the time.
developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true
The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage of time
bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively by
and the function of the watch. Setting the watch accu-
Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely efficient Mo-
rately to the second is possible in conjunction with the
ser tooth system used throughout the wheel train counter-
hacking second when adjusting the hands.
act wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.
The Monard is equipped with the Moser double barrel for
All movements are individually numbered on the barrel
a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound
bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-
and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible
hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold
through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.
mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an expression of the watchmaker’s art at its most accomplished.
MONARD
MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 013 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
45
MONARD
MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 017 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP
CAL. HMC 343.505
WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE
47
48
MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 018 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-019 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD
MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.506-016 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.506 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE
49
M O N A R D D AT E
52
MON A RD DAT E Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and
The interchangeable escapement module typical of Mo-
a big date display: the Monard Date from Moser.
ser also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It is used by Moser for the first time in the world and helps
The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to lo-
to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning
cate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.
and servicing the watch.
As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the months is performed with truly effortless ease, without
A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the pal-
inadvertently changing the time.
let fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the
A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound
pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-
is assured by the Moser double barrel that is connected in
tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function
series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated
is more reliable.
via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible through the large sapphire glass back.
A three-part case made of precious metal, 40.8 mm in diameter and 10.85 mm thick, with a discreetly convex
As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of
sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory move-
the watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,
ment. Freely formed flanks on the bracelet lugs give the
which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-
watch an individual, refined appearance. The sapphire
mission and a long service life. This ensures that the
glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted view of
watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-
the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground stripes.
ning for a long period.
The seal, already familiar to all collectors and featured on the historic watches as a guarantee of authenticity, is also
Screwed gold mounts, into which synthetic ruby jewel bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of this extraordinary watch.
visible through the sapphire glass back.
M O N A R D DAT E
53
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
M O N A R D DAT E
55
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-005 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM
DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK
MOVEMENT WITH THE T WO DATE RINGS
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP
LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER
WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE
56
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 006 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-007 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
monard date
T HE Big date FROM MOSER The Monard Date capti-
two individual digits, as in a big date display, a leading
vates with its elegance and
zero or a blank panel would always be visible for single-
with the big date change
digit numbers. This is one reason why Moser does not
displayed at 6 o’clock in
favour this solution.
the date window. As with the Moser Perpetual 1, this
The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by
is in the form of two rings
one day within one second at midnight every day and can
lying one on top of the
be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending
other. These are the upper
on the length of the month, regardless of whether the
THE BIG
ring with the numbers 1 to 15 and beneath
MOSER DATE
it the ring with the numbers 16 to 31. This
movement itself is changing at the same time.
enables the use of significantly larger num-
The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time is
bers than if 31 positions were to be present
also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately designed
on only a single ring.
clutch separates the movement from the adjustment mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing unfore-
However, a further advantage is associated
seen occurs.
with this special design with two rings: Regardless of the size of each individual digit, it is always centred in the middle of the window. This also applies to the single digits 1 to 9. If the date were to consist of
DATE ADJUSTMENT VIA THE CROWN
57
MERIDIAN
60
MERIDI A N A very elegant watch with automatic movement and alter-
The required number of hours forward or back can be set
nating 12- and 24-hour display. The Moser Meridian com-
and the coloured hand shows the corresponding time.
bines well-known and popular complications with a spe-
Home time can still be read as usual. The display in the
cial innovation: a display which changes automatically
window which changes at noon shows whether it is morn-
from 12 to 24 hours on an ordinary, familiar dial.
ing or afternoon in the home time zone.
The prominent window at the top of the dial displays a 12
Thus in far-flung parts of the world it is always possible to
in the morning of home time. At midday, this display
check home time easily in the usual way, without having
changes within the space of a second to read 24. Within
to think about whether it is AM or PM there.
the home region, a different-coloured and somewhat smaller hand of a different time zone (destination time)
With a power reserve of 72 hours, i.e. three full days, the
is simply hidden under the normal hour hand and so
Moser automatic movement, with its characteristic off-
moves along with it unseen.
centre pocket-watch style seconds display, is one of the longest-running models available. The solid gold rotor
To display the time of another time zone (destination
transfers its energy to a highly efficient pawl winding sys-
time), the coloured hour hand which is normally hidden
tem, whose large barrel ensures the very long power re-
is adjusted in steps of one hour by means of the crown in
serve. The accuracy of this extraordinary watch is assured
its central position. The unique Moser Double Pull
by Moser’s characteristic interchangeable escapement.
Crown system allows the central position to be easily lo-
And, naturally, it also comes with a Straumann Hair-
cated without the watch being inadvertently stopped or
spring ÂŽ, produced in-house, Breguet overcoil and pallet
the current time being changed.
fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold.
MERIDIAN
MERIDIAN REFERENCE NO. 346.121- 023 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121 SECOND TIME zONE DISPL AY 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
MERIDIAN REFERENCE NO. 346.121-024 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121 SECOND TIME zONE DISPL AY 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP
61
M eridian
A LT ERN AT IN G 12- A ND 24- HOUR DISPL AY The Moser Meridian uses a completely new system of al-
without needing to change the arrangement on the dial.
ternating display to indicate morning (AM) and afternoon
And, as with any seemingly simple solution, behind the
(PM): the 24-hour slide. This is a part of a sophisticated
dial lies a highly sophisticated and complex example of
gear train which allows itself to move back and forth, se-
horological craftsmanship.
cured by the means of a Maltese cross. The slide contains only the numbers 1, 2 and 4. The digit 2 in the centre of
As you would expect from Moser, the change of display
the slide is used to display both 12 and 24.
from 12 to 24 at noon takes only a second to complete. The watchmakers have achieved this by using a spring
This is achieved by either the digit 4 being hidden to the
which gains tension over a period of about eight hours
right of the window in the dial, giving the representation
without affecting the workings of the rest of the move-
of ‘12’, or the slide moving to the left, hiding the 1 under
ment. At noon, the power of the spring is released at once
the dial, resulting in ‘24’ showing in the upper window
to achieve the rapid movement of the slide.
of the dial in the afternoon. An ingeniously simple solution, showing the 12 hours of morning and the same number of hours in the afternoon,
MECHANISM FOR THE 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY
DIAL Cal. HMC 346.121
63
M eridian
AU TOM AT IC PAW L W INDING SYS T EM With the appearance of the Meridian model, devotees of
This has the great benefit that, when worn, the watch
the H. Moser & Cie brand will no longer need to pose the
continuously gains more power than it uses. This com-
question they occasionally ask: «When will we see the
bined with the extra-large barrel means that the Meridi-
first watch with automatic winding?»
an’s energy reserve when fully wound is guaranteed to be 72 hours, or three full days. If it is worn for about eight
It took the master watchmakers at Moser five years before
hours a day after having stopped, it will usually regain
they were ready to give the signal that a completely new
fully-wound status within four days of wearing.
watch movement was fit to be launched on the market. Exhaustive tests and in-depth research into principles,
The high efficiency of the Moser pawl winding system is
materials and construction details were undertaken be-
partly attributable to the fact that it is wound up by move-
fore the new movement could be unveiled to the public.
ment of the rotor in either direction. One of the two pawls turns the pawl wheel on pull, the other on push. A
As always, the masterly automatic movement, developed
torque brace is provided to ensure that the pawl does not
especially for this extraordinary watch, reveals its special
buckle or break under the resultant tension. The materials
features only on close examination. The see-through sap-
of the pawls and the pawl wheel are matched and produce
phire glass back of the watch allows you to marvel at the
minimum wear.
large, solid gold rotor as it goes about its winding work. The energy from its movement is transferred to the barrel
These technical specifications underline the exclusive so-
by means of a pawl winding system which is consistently
phistication of another elegant Moser watch, which, like
effective regardless of its direction of turn. A large lubri-
all the watches from H. Moser & Cie, does not rely on
cant-free ball bearing with maintenance-free ceramic
mass-produced movement components but combines the
bearing balls and cantilever-mounted ratchet wheel en-
finest materials with the highest levels of intricacy and
sure very low friction.
functionality. Only a steel bearing ball from a standard ball bearing and the ceramic bearing balls for the rotor are mass-produced.
MOVEMENT
WINDING MECHANISM
Cal. HMC 346.121
PAWLS AND PAWL WHEEL
65
M AY U
68
M AY U A fine, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-
Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also
ment: the Mayu from Moser.
the dial with its sun pattern ground finish, play with the reflected sunlight.
The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s first wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-
The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in
fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.
Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions of the watch in both length and form.
A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a mechanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a
In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-
diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary
ule used for the first time by Moser offers high exclusivi-
tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-
ty. It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and
ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.
helps to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servic-
The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures
ing required by all mechanical watches about every five
that the watch will continue to run for at least three days
years. Another world-first is the execution of the pallet
even without winding.
fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and
The harmonious design of the dial is particularly en-
the associated wear.
hanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand. Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower
The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal
end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-
with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through
sible to the minute ring. This position can only be
sapphire glass back.
achieved with a large movement designed specifically for the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14 lines in horological terms.
M AY U
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 005 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
69
M AY U
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 007 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP
CAL. HMC 321.503
WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE
71
72
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B15
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-016 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B16 BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
M AY U
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B13 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
73
74
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B05 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 325.503-010 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 325.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE
mayu
W HEEL S, PINIONS A ND L E V ERS
H acking second
The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-
By pulling it out into the second position, the winding
old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-
crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To
tails: an eight-day wheel is included between the barrel
enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch
and the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under
also has a hacking second.
the barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are arranged beneath a common bridge, which permits close
As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned
tolerances in the interests of high efficiency.
against the weight compensation screws of the balance and holds it
The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of
securely. This causes the watch to
the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the
stop, although the balance spring
same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical
remains under tension. When the
interface with the escapement module.
crown is pushed back into the normal position, the stop spring releases the balance once more and the watch starts to run immediately. To show the power reserve available at any time, Mayu watches with a see-through back have a display on the movement
POWER RESERVE
side. This indicates the fully-wound state in the «UP»
DISPL AY
position and, after three days, it will have covered about two-thirds of the distance in the «DOWN» direction.
MAYU WHEEL TR AIN
75
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
78
HENRY DOUBL E H A IRSPRIN G An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann Double
A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-
Hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser
ment, which naturally does not sacrifice the interchange-
with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.
ability that is typical of Moser escapements.
An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the
Set in a well-proportioned case measuring 44.1 mm long
most complicated component of the mechanical watch,
by 38.6 mm wide by 10.4 mm high, this latest masterpiece
gives this movement its particular charisma. The legen-
of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has a power reserve
dary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a
of at least four days when fully wound. Exclusive and
unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational er-
unique to Moser, the execution of the pallet fork and the
ror. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a
escapement wheel in hardened, solid white gold is also
matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by
retained as a distinguishing feature of the Moser escape-
so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement
ment with Straumann Double Hairspring.
from occurring in the first place. Self-compensating and antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery of the manufacture of the balance springs – from the melting of the alloy to the finished spring – with in-house technology and precision. This prerequisite is met within Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
79
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 004 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607-002 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
81
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 005 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN RED GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID RED GOLD BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607-006 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PL ATINUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP
CAL. HMC 324.607
WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE
82
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 003 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALL ADIUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
S traumann Double H airspring Using an escapement with Straumann Double Hair-
Clearly, producing such a complicated escapement mod-
spring, which is installed in all of the Henry models,
ule requires mastery of the whole balance spring produc-
Moser has succeeded in preventing the gravitational error
tion process – from melting the material right through to
before it even occurs. The result is more stable accuracy
completing the finished spring. Together with its associ-
in all positions.
ate company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie developed the Straumann Hairspring ® based on the for-
In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as
mula used by the inventor of Nivarox, Prof. Dr. h.c. Re-
a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against
inhard Straumann. This ensures the necessary homoge-
one another. This causes the centres of gravity of the two
neity of the material’s mechanical properties.
springs to move outwards and inwards on opposing symmetrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative centre of
Furthermore, the springs are manufactured so consist-
gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the
ently that they are even able to ensure uniform compen-
arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence
sation for any elasticity in the presence of temperature
on the accuracy of the watch.
fluctuations. This ensures that the centre of gravity does not wander from the centre of the arbor even when the temperature changes.
SCREW BAL ANCE WITH
ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH
STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
83
LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS
86
T HE L IMI T ED COL L ECTORS EDI T IONS FROM MOSER Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-
The watchmakers at Moser were determined to create a
cial event, particular techniques or unusual horological
limited edition before mastery of this technique of coat-
solutions. This is also true of Moser.
ing metal with vitreous enamel in a furnace is lost.
It is now more than five years since the Moser Perpetual 1,
The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a
set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds, was introduced to mark
different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to
the international relaunch of the H. Moser & C brand in
refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and
2005. With its specially formed bezel, it lends itself per-
on the other hand Moser’s master engravers wished to
fectly to mounting with selected diamonds. This watch,
demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the ex-
incidentally, also saw the introduction of the now legen-
quisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For
dary «Flash Calendar».
once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was re-
ie
placed by a solid gold case back, which depicts the twoWith the Moser Perpetual 1 Golden Edition, the Moser
headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut dia-
master watchmakers have shown in 2011 what they are
monds.
capable of achieving. A movement almost entirely in 18-carat gold with the world’s only fully functional dia-
The yellow gold Mayu with ivory-coloured lacquered dial
mond end stones in a shock-absorber. Dial, hands, pallet
is also a special edition. Here the authentic, subsidiary
fork and escapement wheel – all in solid gold. A truly
pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu and Perpetual
superlative watch.
models is brought to the fore. It is positioned next to the minute ring, as in the historic examples of pocket watch-
Other collectors editions include the Monard and Mayu
es. This is indeed a rarity, because it calls for a specially
models with genuine «grand feu» enamel dials. This is an
designed movement without the customary movement
enamelling skill that appeared almost to have died out.
retaining ring.
LIMITED EDITIONS
87
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-B04 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION REFERENCE NO. 341.101-008 LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PL ATE AND BRIDGES IN 18-CAR AT ROSE GOLD 2 FUNCTIONAL DIAMOND END STONES IN THE INCABLOC SHOCK-ABSORBER WHITE SAPPHIRE JEWEL BEARING UNDER THE END STONE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH HANDS AND INDICES IN 18-CAR AT ROSE GOLD THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP
88
MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK ENAMEL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD WHITE ENAMEL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT
LIMITED EDITIONS
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
HAND-ENGR AVED T WO-HEADED IMPERIAL EAGLE
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS HAND-ENGR AVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH 25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-004 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD IVORY-COLOURED L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT
89
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
92
T E A M SPIRI T A ND SPECI A L IS TS Heinrich Moser’s visionary views are recorded in many of
H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory.
his letters. They also contain principles which remain
Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and
valid to this day.
technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that the Moser movements can be described justifiably as pure
If you want to build the best watches, you must go to the
manufactory movements. The watches themselves also
best suppliers for the individual components. Only these
merit manufactory status, because they are assembled by
specialist, whose knowledge has been passed down
hand.
through the generations, are actually in a position to transform their craftsmanship into real watch parts. Only
In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the
by working with them, in their environment, with their
individual parts of the watches are produced by machine
networks and their particular strengths, are such peak
in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be
performances still achievable.
made in the quality of the movements. This would not be compatible with the present-day opportunities, and not at
That is certainly one of the reasons why
all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.
Heinrich Moser’s watchmaking business was already established in Le Locle in 1828, and why most components are still made in the Swiss Jura. GREAT WHEEL
But there is also a machine room at the headquarters in
WITH STAFF AND PINION
Neuhausen near the Rhine Falls, home to the top specialists in the production of the finest and most accurate precision components. Technologies, tools, mechanisms and processes are developed here that stretch technology to its very limits. This expertise and these processes are then passed on to the traditional supplier for incorporation into its series production. It is only in this way and in close cooperation with these specialists that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to accomplish true innovations and world-firsts for the benefit of its
THE UNIQUE WINDING GEAR TR AIN
customers all around the globe.
FROM MOSER WITH CONICAL WHEELS
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
D OUBL E PUL L CROW N ( DPC ) MECH A NISM
0
1
2
Another world-first can be
The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in
found exclusively in the
all Moser watches with additional displays and ensures
Moser watches of the new
that merely the position for date adjustment, for instance,
era:
Pull
is reached by pulling out the crown once until it stops.
Crown (DPC) mechanism.
Only by then releasing the crown briefly, if necessary by
the
Double
giving it a light tap, and pulling it out once more until it DPC denotes the double
stops is the crown able to move to the position for adjust-
pull on the crown re-
ing the hands.
quired in this mechanism in order to move from
Errors when adjusting the date or additional displays are
THREE POSITIONS OF
winding to adjustment of
now a thing of the past.
THE WINDING CROWN
the hands. The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even The intermediate position
the smallest details of a mechanical watch.
for adjustment of the date is relatively difficult to ÂŤsenseÂť with the customary detent function in all watches without DPC. As often as not, the crown is pulled out too far, and the time is then adjusted unintentionally instead of the date.
DOUBLE PULL CROWn MECHANISM
93
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
T HE S T R AUM A NN H A IRSPRIN G ® The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in conjunction with the balance, is solely responsible for the precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser
CRUCIBLE WITH PE3000 NIVAROX MELT
development engineers have accordingly devoted a high degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associate company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original formula and technology of the legendary Nivarox material have been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann – the grandfather of our present Board member, Dr. h.c. Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed a fracture-resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free and antimagnetic alloy consisting of seven elements,
HAMMERING THE GLOWING NIVAROX MATERIAL
and applied for a patent for this invention. The patent describes the first concrete formulation, which exhibits the desired characteristics and also finds an application in watches as a balance spring material. It is still in use today, in slightly modified form, in practically all high-quality, volume-produced movements with a mechanical oscillating system. A few years ago, Precision Engineering AG, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie, installed its own, complete production line, from melting of the alloy to the finished escapement system.
THE PATENTS FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL OF REINHARD STR AUMANN
SAWING THE INGOT
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ULTR A HIGH PRECISION ROLLING OF THE PE3000 NIVAROX MATERIAL
All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are equipped exclusively with an in-house Straumann Hairspring ®. In tribute to its inventor, the brand name Straumann Hairspring ® now benefits from international protection. The precise combination of all the highest-grade materials in the smelting charge and the processing of the raw ingot with a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80 kg into a wire with a diameter which is thinner than a
WINDING THE 4 STRIPS INTO A SPRING ASSEMBLY
human hair demand technological expertise acquired over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the final homogeneity of the wire and its ultra-precise rolling from a round shape into a flat strip can provide the conditions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring ® springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of 0.1 thousandth of a millimetre. And, once again, it is the skilled craftsmen and -women who manage to thread four of these unbelievably thin
®
wires on to a tool, wind them into a spring assembly, treat
WITH BREGUET OVERCOIL
it in a high-vacuum furnace, and then separate it again to
FINISHED STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING
produce the finished balance springs. The régleuses at H. Moser & Cie then rivet the metal ring on its inside, bend the Breguet overcoil by hand with amazing precision, secure the outer end, and thus round off their contribution to the many hundreds of processes that go into making a balance spring.
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
IN T ERCH A N GE A BL E ESCA PEMEN T MODUL E The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves
The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with
from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-
weight compensation screws made of white gold and a
tomer benefit. In the watches of the new era, this finds
driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic
expression in one component in particular: the escape-
work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-
ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was
als used in the balance and the balance spring are
developed with a view to reducing the time taken for ad-
matched to one another in such a way that fluctuations
justment when cleaning and servicing the watch about
in temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy
every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the
of the watch.
complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the movement and installs an already cleaned and adjusted mod-
Since the balance has a relative-
ule. Job done.
ly high mass, it is protected from shocks. The balance staff
At the same time, the escapement module itself is opti-
has high-precision, roller-bur-
mized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no
nished conical pivots and is car-
longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjust-
ried in a bearing with the capac-
ment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is per-
ity to yield in the presence of
formed via the cross-
shocks and thus prevents frac-
slotted steel screws
ture of the pivots, which are
around the periphery
only 0.08 mm thick.
BALANCE WITH PLATE, ELLIPSE AND STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING速
of the balance. To prevent these from moving of their own accord due to vibrations, a slot has been made through the screw thread. As a result, the screw is constantly under spring pressure and is secured in this way. Just how difficult this is to manufacture will be appreciated when the diameter of the screw holes is taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm. SPRING SLOT FOR THE ADJUSTING SCREW
INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE
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Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise to find that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet overcoil. This overcoil is the only one to provide reliable assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral spring will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creating unequal oscillation periods in different positions. The pallet fork and escapement wheel are manufactured by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers the particular advantage that the vertical working surfaces are generally executed with a glass-smooth finish. THE DR AGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TR AVEL
A further important consideration for the accuracy is the facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunction with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too, the people at Moser have come up with something new:
The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets and the club teeth of the escapement wheel is reduced to a minimum in this way. Moser repeatedly used gold wheels in its movements in the past.
the dragon lever. This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet fork is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass, any vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well damped. The eccentrics are only accessible from below via a slot, so they are no longer capable of adjustment once the escapement module has been installed in the movement.
GOLD ESCAPEMENT WHEEL WITH STEEL PINION
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
T HE CR A F TSM A N’S A RT The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through technically accomplished solutions but also through the individual features of the component parts that are worked out with loving attention to detail. One example of this is the sun pattern ground finish on the plates of all Moser movements that is only visible to the watchmaker. This is only revealed when the watch is completely dismantled into its individual parts on the watchmaker’s workbench. A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the outside. Bevelled and polished edges are visible in this way, and the jewels sparkle in the light.
MOVEMENT SIDE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION
DIAL SIDE
WITH SOLID GOLD BRIDGES,
CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-BEVELLED EDGES
CR AFTSMANSHIP
AND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
IN ITS FINEST FORM
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100
Another entirely traditional Moser feature is the arrangement of the third wheel and the fourth wheel together beneath the same train-wheel bridge, which exhibits the typical convex form around the jewel bearings. Also present on THE MOSER SEAL ON THE MONARD
the train-wheel bridge is the Hein-
TR AIN-WHEEL BRIDGE
rich Moser seal in gold, which guarantees authenticity both in the historic watches and in the watches of the new era.
The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical of Moser and the fine gold engravings are as obvious as
The exquisite relief engravings on
the tireless oscillations of the screw balance.
the solid gold case backs of our limited collectors editions are testimony to the artistry of individual watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie, masters of a craft which is now only rarely seen due to its sheer complexity.
MOSER GROUND STRIPES AND GOLD ENGR AVINGS
PERFECTION IN RELIEF ENGR AVING ON THE SOLID GOLD CASE BACKS
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
FINISHIN G The finishing process only uses traditional craft methods. No machine can produce a truly beautifully polished chamfered edge on the bridges and plates. Manual work is just as necessary here as it is for the polished finish and the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun pattern ground finish under the barrel. The typical Moser ground stripes on the plates are also created using purely manual work. The Swiss watchmaker’s art in its finest form in the watches and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of this unremitting quest for perfection.
ONE OF THE T WO DIAMOND END STONES IN THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION
SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH UNDER THE BARREL
101
TIMELINE
T IMEL INE 1730 Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watchmaker, he assumes the hereditary and honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a Cantonal Councillor. 1760 Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds his father in the position of town watchmaker and is himself a member of the Cantonal Council. 1805 Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824. 1824 Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle, Switzerland, in the master watchmakers’ workshops in the town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he starts a small business to supply spare parts. It only takes Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and he receives offers of work from Italy and Paris. 1826 Moser works on his own account for the first time by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture. 1827 The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg in Russia. After an adventurous journey by horsedrawn coach and by sea, he nearly runs out of money. He starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops. 1828 Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. This marks the hour of inception of what would eventually grown into such a successful brand. Moser’s business flourishes, which can certainly be attributed to the fact that the watches sold by him are supplied only in high quality. Not a single watch is allowed to pass over the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his representatives. 1829 In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia. 1848 Moser, by now a wealthy merchant and watch manufacturer, decides to return to Schaffhausen with his family. From this point on, he sees his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those days, into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he builds the magnificent Charlottenfels country manor house for his family.
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1851
Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the water to drive a turbine generating about 80 hp.
1853 In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen), which later changes its name to Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaffhausen–Winterthur railway line, also in 1853. Furthermore, he opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen. 1860 The company archive of Jaeger-LeCoultre from this year lists Heinrich Moser as a customer. Over time, he sources up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications. The uncompromising quality of his watches gains him access as a supplier to the Imperial Court, royal households and the armed forces. Within just a few years, he is selling watches as far afield as Japan, China, Persia but also to the West, in Paris and New York. 1863/64 Heinrich Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to supply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power station marks the start of the industrial age in Schaffhausen. 1868 Moser supports F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) by providing premises and energy to drive the machines. 1874 Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser, as the heiress of all his business interests. 1877 Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation to its managing director Winterhalter. The watch factory in Le Locle goes to Paul Girard. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie or Heinrich Moser & Co. 1917
The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the private watch market in the country that is dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company return to Switzerland totally expropriated in early 1918. The business in Le Locle is unaffected by the political turmoil and carries on as before, attempting to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other countries.
TIMELINE
1920 The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch businesses. 1953 Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced decreases steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name «Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877 agreements. 1973 H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread in the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle. 1979 The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and trades as «Hy Moser & Cie». 2002 The original brand of the founder, «H. Moser & Cie», is once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is launched jointly with representatives of the Moser family. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is today Honorary Chairman of Moser Group AG. 2005 To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the H. Moser & Cie brand, once again launches a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding father on the international watch arena. 2006 H. Moser & Cie introduces its four watch ranges, Moser Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a broad public for the first time at «Baselworld 2006». 2006 Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion: «The classic case of the Perpetual 1 / Flash Calendar from Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement».
Favourite Watch with Complication • 2006
2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes first place
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
in the complicated watches category.
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2007 «Baselworld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the Straumann Hairspring ®, developed jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an international specialist audience. 2007 The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring escapement from Moser and a specially designed movement, is presented at «Baselworld 2007». 2007 Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Palladium model is presented to the public. 2007 Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaff hausen AG. All the associate companies are now united under a single roof. Moser Schaff hausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group together guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial growth of the H. Moser & Cie brand. 2008 The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary. 2008 The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are launched. 2008 The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann Double Hairspring escapement with capement wheel in hardened white gold. An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial. 2009 Moser Group AG continues to invest in the verticalization of production for its group members. Around 70 jobs have now been created and an in-house production facility has been set up. 2009 In view of the great success of the highly elegant fumé dial, the Henry and Monard models are now made available in this design with a brilliant white palladium case with Straumann Double Hairspring escapement. 2009 A reproduction of the original book dating back to 1875 on the life of Heinrich Moser is produced in an exclusive private edition. The book, which was written shortly after his death and which is rarely to be found in the original, is now presented in a boxed set together with the translation into other languages, in modern typography.
TIMELINE
2010 The multi-million investments by the Moser Group in expertise, longevity and growth are largely completed. The Moser Group emerges strongly from the international financial crisis. H. Moser & Cie acts as principal sponsor of a major equestrian event for the first time. The 4-star CSI Basel 2010 tournament achieves a spectacular debut with outstanding international competitors and an exclusive programme of associated events. 2010 The Moser Perpetual Moon is unveiled. Another superlative watch with a moon phase display which can be set accurately to the minute and can run over 1,000 years without adjustment. 2011 The CSI in Basel, the world’s best-endowed indoor show jumping competition, is awarded 5-star status, not least because of the sponsorship of H. Moser & Cie. Moser celebrates this with the launch of the Monard Marrone. 2011 The Perpetual 1 Golden Edition is premiered. With solid gold fumé dial, gold hands and a movement with solid gold plate and bridges, together with the interchangeable Straumann Double Hairspring escapement, it releases a torrent of emotions, the high point being the world’s first functional diamond end stone in a shockabsorber. 2011 The Moser Perpetual 1 Fumé Palladium is the first watch with a perpetual calendar combining the advantages of the double hairspring escapement with the complexity of an elegant, quintessentially Moser watch. 2012 The first Moser watch with automatic movement is presented at «Baselworld 2012». With its innovative second time zone, the Meridian range again underlines Moser’s expression of elegance and throws light on the meaning of its maxim «passionately different».
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COPYRIGHT 2012 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG ALL PRODUCTS SHOWN OR MENTIONED IN THIS CATALOGUE MAY BE PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. FOR BR ANDS WHICH DO NOT BELONG TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERT Y OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAIL ABILIT Y OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
Pictures
MANFRED DUBACH, katharina lochs, marcel studer, sammlung homberger, CArl J. Koch, stadtarchiv schaffhausen
Art Direction
manfred dubach, K Atharina Lochs
Layout
dubach.digital GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN
Digital Image Processing
dubach.digital GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN
Print Bookbinding
Sonderegger Druck AG, WEinfelden SChumacher AG, Schmitten
moser schaffhausen AG member of moser group ag rundbuckstrasse 10, ch-8212 neuhausen am rheinfall, switzerland t +41 52 674 00 50, www.h-moser.com