foodunion Volume I 2014
the emulsification of art & food by Haley Polinsky Food Union is a compilation of all of my food and art related projects from the last year. I find art and food to be a perfect union. They come together so naturally and easily, from a carefully plated meal to the natural patterns and designs of raw ingredients. The content includes recipes, ingredient profiles, watercolour paintings, prints and photography. In the last two years my food knowledge has vastly expanded. I’ve welcomed a lot of great mentors in my life like Erica, Colin, Lindsay who have not only taught me so much about food but also inspired me. I have also expanded my knowledge and passion from working in a kitchen and from attending OCAD. Now I find myself always looking for texture and patterns in food and I am often found saying “Look at this! This is art”, while staring at something like octopus tentacles. I have always been interested in creating art but wasn’t sure how that would fit in with my other passion of cooking. I realized in the past year, however, that the two work so well together. I get to apply my cooking skills in creating the work that goes into my photoshoots and apply my artistic skills in styling, editing and designing. The best way to describe how I spend my time is through food, because I seem to be always connected in some way. If I’m not cooking or eating food, I can be found reading, writing, photographing and drawing food or just thinking about my next meal. If you were to step into my apartment in the last year you would most likely find me standing on top of a chair with my camera in hand, food scattered all over the room and me trying to get just the right angle in an egg yolk shot. I hope my photos and content inspire you to get more involved with food in the next year, whether by gardening, making more meals at home, trying new ingredients, exploring new restaurants or just changing the way you look at food.
sunchoke
Sunchokes seem to be a relatively unknown and forgotten vegetable to the general public. They are also known as Jerusalem artichokes, sunroot, earth apple, or topinambour. When growing sunchokes, waiting as long as you can is best as they tend to be sweeter the colder the weather is. Wait until after the first frost to harvest and even longer. They can even be harvested with snow on the ground. Sunchokes are the root of a type of sunflower. The plant stem and flower resembles a smaller version of the sunflower but the tuber below is more similiar to ginger. Marcella Hazan writes in one of her cookbooks, “I can’t say enough good things about this heavenly knotty little tuber... I am delighted to serve them whenever I can get them because they have never once falied to please�. I agree with Marcella. I have not once been disappointed with a sunchoke dish. Though most people tend to describe them similiar to a potato, they are far sweeter and the texture much more silky. Sunchokes are wonderful roasted and pureed into a winter soup, gently cooked in milk until tender for a risotto or fryed into chips. Available from March to October.
LA BORRACHA PALETA The Drunken Popsicle This popsicle was my first addition to the Grand Electric menu in the heat of Summer 2013. I am not a fan of juice based popsicles but didn’t have an ice-cream maker so my solution was to have a creamy popsicle. The tangieness of the sour cream with the sweet juicy peaches and spoonful of bourbon that brings everything together. 2 ripe peaches, pitted and halved 2 tbsp butter 1/4 cup brown sugar 3/4 cup full fat sour cream 2 tbsp bourbon Place halved peaches flesh side up on a baking tray, dot with butter and 2 tbsp of brown sugar. Roast at 400 degrees for approxiametly 15 to 20 minutes, until peaches are soft. Puree in blender until completely smooth (pureeing the tasty juices from the baking tray).
Dirt from the
Dish Pit
by Roger Forster
Dishwashers mostly weirdos... A new study put forward jointly by the Canadian Psychology Association and Ryerson University has concluded that dishwashers across Canada are mostly “weirdos”. The study looked at 50 dishwashers in each of Canada’s three largest cities. “What we’re seeing here is an increasing number of deranged, moody, and extremely self-obsessed people coming into the restaurant business” says one researcher. “They’ve got nowhere to go so they turn to the dish pit”. The study did not investigate whether dishwashing itself is a cause of or irritant for the weirdos. Most of the washers that had issues were either burned-out activists or from a small, dead-end Canadian town. Suburban weirdos are seldom in the dish pit, one researcher suggesting that they prefer something more neurotic like driving to the factory in Markham every day. Many washers used the excuse of ‘just taking a year off from studies’ or ‘thinking about my life’ to justify their choice to dishwash. Trent Pinkey in Vancouver has been a restaurant owner for ten years. He has a crew of thirty dishwashers and has had an increased turnover rate in the past year. “We’re looking at something like 4 or 5 washers every two weeks coming and going from our place...Now, that’s a whole lot when you’re running a busy restaurant in Gastown”. The findings will be presented to the federal government early next week, but critics say it could be years before mature and responsible people are hitting the pit. “This is a long and complex process” says Fredericton psychologist Lyle Medley, “When you have young adults who were raised spending their time drinking beer, shooting off fireworks, and pushing their quad out of the ditch, it’s no easy adjustment to dishwashing”. As restaurants continue to grow and become busier as people turn more and more frequently away from real world issues like global warming or class disparities, it’s likely that this problem will only get worse. Meanwhile, Canadian dishwashers will meet next month to discuss the study’s findings and participate in their annual ‘wash-for-cash’ with all the money going to underpaid dishwashers.
the king
of spring Ink and watercolour on paper 8.5 x 11 2013
the queen of
betacarotene
Ink and watercolour on paper 8.5 x 11 2013
heartnuts a cultivar of the Japanese walnut open into two flat heart-shaped halves, like a locket high in fiber, antioxidants, and protein tastes sweet, buttery and less bitter than walnuts flavour heightened when roasted grows well in the Great Lakes region
banana spice cake
also known as plantain pleasure
Roasted Plantain Icing
Spiced Buttermilk Cake
3 1/2 cup icing sugar 1 1/2 cup plantain puree 1 cup butter, softened 1 1/2 cup cream cheese, room temperature 2 limes, zested
Yield: 16 - 130 ml mason jars
Beat plantain puree, butter and cream cheese together in stand mixer until throughly combined and starts to become fluffy, approxiametly five minutes. Add icing sugar, is 1/2 cup batches. Add lime zest. Transfer icing to piping bag .
Bourbon Simple Syrup 1/2 cup water 1/4 bourbon 1/4 cup brown sugar Combine all ingredients in a small pot, simmer over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved.
To assemble dessert: Fill ramekins 1/3 full with banana filling, fill 1/3 full with cake batter (do not overfill as cake will rise). Bake at 325 for 15 to 20 minutes, until top is golden brown and batter is cooked through in the centre. Once hot out of the oven, pour over 1 tablespoon of the bourbon simple syrup over each ramekin. Let cakes cool, once cool, pipe icing on top and garnish is with a slice of fried plantain.
1 cup all purpose flour 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/4 tsp ground allspice 1/4 tsp ground black pepper 1/2 tsp ground canela 2 tbsp fresh ginger, finely grated 1/2 cup butter, softened 1 cup white sugar 2 eggs 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 2/3 cup buttermilk Cream together butter and sugar; add eggs, beat until light and fluffy. Add vanilla extract, spices, fresh ginger, and flour, gently mix alternating with buttermilk. Banana Filling 4 ripe bananas, medium sized 1 cup 35% cream 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup bourbon Pinch of salt Heat a large frying pan, once hot add butter, when butter has melted add brown suga, cook for two to three minutes until sugar dissolves, add bananas, cook for two minutes until they begin to soften, add bourbon, cook off alcohol. Add cream and season with a pinch of salt, cook for approximaitley three minutes, until sauce begins to thicken. Take off heat.
LET ’S MAKE PUFFED WHEAT SQUARES
Puffed Wheat Squares Puff wheat squares (or cakes) have always been a classic dessert for my family. I only realized this year that this square is specific to the flatlands of Canada, originating from Red Deer, Alberta. After the first world war, grain producers were looking for new markets for wheat. The candy shop owner, A.J. Russell, came up with this sweet, sticky dessert to utilize the grain. When I mentioned the square at work to my co-workers in Toronto, they looked at me puzzled. This is my mother’s old recipe which uses honey which we always had in abundance growing up on our honey farm. 1/2 cup butter 1 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup honey 1 tsp vanilla extract 7 cups puffed wheat (also sold as kamut puffs) In a large pot melt butter over low heat, add brown sugar and honey, bring to a boil, let simmer over medium to medium low heat for three minutes. Take off heat, add vanilla extract, and stir in premeasured wheat puffs. Press into 13 x 9 glass or baking pan, press down with parchment paper. When completely cool, cut into squares. Note: For chocolate lovers, add 3 tbsp cocoa powder to the butter, sugar and honey for a chocolate puffed wheat square.
zucchini blossoms A flower almost too beautiful to eat. The blossoms are so delicate it is hard to imagine, throwing them in a pan of hot oil to fry. But once you taste your first zucchini flower there is no return. Popular in Mexican, French and Italian cuisine. Cucina di recupero which literally translates to recovery food, is a cooking philosphy of zero waste. If zucchini flowers are left on the plant, over time they will wilt and die. Take advantage of this beautiful flower, from use of a garnish to the main meal. The options are endless, stuff with herbs, ricotta and sausage, lightly pan fry in olive oil or throw in a salad for some colour and new flavour. When picking zucchini blossoms be aware that there are both female and male flowers. Some say that it is better to pick the male flowers because the female flowers will become fruit. Pick flowers in the morning when the flower is open to be sure no bugs are inside. Do not wash zucchini flowers before using, gently wipe off any dirt that can be seen.
Zucchini Blossom Linocut print 4� x 6� 2013
CHILIS
A photographic look at chilis that provide more than just heat, deep flavours ranging from green tea to berry tones, a staple in Mexican and Latin cuisines
GUAJILLO dried mirasol chili green tea flavour with berry overtones
CHIPOLTE smoke dried jalapeno imparts mild but earthy spicieness to dishes
ANCHO
dried poblano pepper outer skin has a rich, sweet, raisin-like flavor
CASCABEL
also known as little bell or rattle chili because of the loose seeds inside that are reminiscent to a rattlesnake different from most dried chilis because they keep their shape after being dried also keep their name as well when both fresh and dried toasty and nutty with moderate heat
ARBOLS
also known as the bird's beak chile or rat's tail chile small but potent keep their distinct red colour after dehydrated bold heat, sublte smoky flavour
- M.F.K. Fisher
Wild Chokecherries (also known as bitter berry) Found mostly in western Canada (British Columbia, Alberta, and Saskatchewan) Available: Late August to October Chokecherry is a suckering shrub or small tree growing to 16 feet tall. Leaves are oval, 1.25–4 in. long, with a coarsely serrated margin. Pick berries that are darker in colour, as they are less astringent than the red berries. The berries should be picked as late in the season as possible so that the tannins mellow and it is not so dry on the palate. Hence the name chokecherries. The benefit of the berries being so bitter is there is virtually no loss in yield when picked, since they are almost inedible when eaten fresh, which kills any temptation of snacking.
I grew up eating this jelly and would look forward to receiving packages of chokecherry jelly in the mail from my Grandma or picking a jar off of the shelf in the cellar at her house. I’m sure every relative in the Polinsky clan is familiar with Grandma’s jelly just as they are familiar with her Christmas specialty peppermint patties. Best eaten by dunking slices of buttered bread (cut into fingers) dipped into warm chokecherry jelly. Or use on pancakes and waffles or make a vinaigrette or sauce for meat. Chokecherry Jelly 1 L prepared chokecherries (4 c) 1.5 L sugar (6 c) 57 g pkg fruit pectin crystals (2 oz) l25 mL lemon juice (1/2 c) Fill boiling water bath canner with hot water. Place 7 250 mL (1/2 pint) preserving jars in canner over high heat (to sterilize). Place metal snap lids in boiling water. Boil 5 min to soften sealing compound. Keep hot until ready to use. Prepare chokecherries - wash, stem and crush fruit. Simmer with 250 mL (1 c) water until tender. Put through sieve or food mill to remove stones. Measure 875 mL (3 1/2 c) fruit and 125 mL (1/2 c) lemon juice. Place fruit in a 5 L (5 qt) saucepan or kettle. Add 1 mL (1/4 tsp) butter to reduce foaming. Add pectin crystals to fruit and stir well. Place over high heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly to avoid scorching. Remove from heat, add sugar and stir until all sugar is dissolved. Return to heat, continue stirring, and bring to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. Boil hard for 1 min, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim off foam. Stir and skim for 5 min to cool slightly to reduce floating fruit. Ladle into hot sterile jar. Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) headspace. Clean jar rim. Center metal snap lid. Apply screw band just until fingertip tight. Place in canner. Repeat with remaining jars. Adjust boiling water level to 2.5 cm (1 inch) above jar tops. Cover canner. Process 10 min in boiling water bath. Begin process time when water returns to a boil. Remove from canner. Set upright and spaced apart out of drafts to cool. Cool 24 h. Test for seal (sealed lids curve downward in center). Remove screw bands. Wipe jars, label and date. Store in a cool dark location. Yield: 7 250 mL (1/2 pint) jars.
glory be to the pea a photography set dedicated to the sweet pea
eggnog pear clafoutis
Eggnog Clafoutis Butter, for greasing the pan About 2 tsp granulated sugar, for dusting the pan 1 large ripe pear 1 1/4 cups whole milk 1 cup brown sugar 4 large eggs 1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1/8 tsp fine sea salt 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1tbsp bourbon 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Preheat oven to 375 F. Butter a 9 1/2-inch pie plate and dust it lightly with granulated sugar. Shake out any excess. Peel and core the pear, and slice it thinly. Arrange the slices on the bottom of the prepared pan. In the jar of a blender, combine the milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, salt, bourbon, nutmeg and flour. Blend on high speed for one minute, scraping down the sides if necessary. Pour batter over the pears. Bake until the custard is puffed and golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. The custard will deflate a little as it cools. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
meet Monique
grape tomato confit, garlic, thyme and mozzarella
meet Violet
pears, brown butter, turbinado sugar with cardamom creme fraiche
meet Gaston
sauteed shiitake, cremini and oysters mushrooms in a garlic thyme cream sauce
meet Julie
zucchini with preserved lemon, basil, parsley and chèvre
meet Henri
roasted butternut squash, sweet carmelized onions and fresh sage
meet Bertrand
roasted garlic sunchoke puree, sauteed kale and bacon topped with an egg
Haley Polinsky is a prairie born, Toronto based chef and artist. She holds a diploma in Culinary Arts from the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts in Vancouver and is mostly a self taught artist.
For all feedback and inquiries contact me at haleypolinsky@gmail.com Visit me at http://haleypolinsky.4ormat.com/ Follow me on Instagram at http://instagram.com/haleypolinsky For more information on The Galette Girls https://www.facebook.com/thegalettegirls
Haley Polinsky Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. You may not take any images or content from this publication without written permission.