Professional Hairdresser July/August 2023

4O YEARS OF HOB SALONS

15OUT OUT HOB’s 40th Anniversary

16The Power of Three

20It Takes 2

22STYLE MEMO

REGULARS BUSINESS

38ELENA LAVAGNI

25SUSTAINABLE MEMO

26BUSINESS MEMO

27HAIR ME OUT

62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson shares his diary

64VISIT

Chop Chop Camden

665 MINUTES WITH…

Christopher Laird

39PHIL-ING IN THE BLANKS

With Phil Smith

40NEED TO KNOW TRICHO

With Mark Blake

41HAPPY LEADERS

With Polly Grace

64

TENTS

SPECIAL

31THE SUMMER EDIT PORTFOLIO

44Errol Douglas MBE

52Neil Moodie

54Sassoon Academy

PRODUCTS

58DROPPED

Latest Products

61PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Goldwell

PORTFOLIO: Errol Douglas MBE

BOOKED..! Luke Benson shares his diary

VISIT: Chop Chop Camden

HAVE YOUR SAY

How much do you feel loved by your brand partner?

As you know from your own experience, your clients’ expectations of you and your salon services have skyrocketed over the last few years since the pandemic, so do you feel the professional brands you work with are truly championing your needs and expectations as their customer?

Does your current professional brand partner put the work in to keep you and your salon team happy to ensure your long-term loyalty?

Have your say and take our quick survey…

1. What is the brand you are currently using in your salon?

2. What are the key factors to determine your happiness and satisfaction with that brand?

a) Product

b) Price

c) Education/training

d) Brand support

3. How influential are your clients in determining your preferred professional brand?

4. Are you thinking of switching brands in the next 6 months or so?

5. If so, what brands are you considering switching to?

Enjoy the issue!

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell Group Sales Manager

Ray Suitters rsuitters@hamerville.co.uk

HEADLINES

HAIR AND BEAUTY CHARITY GOLF DAY RAISES OVER £6,000

The hair and beauty industry came together in a remarkable display of friendly competition and generosity to mark the second Hair and Beauty Charity and HBSA Golf Day. Hosted at the Hellidon Lakes Golf Resort in Daventry, the event raised over £6,000 and featured some of the industry’s most renowned organisations. Including Kao, Schwarzkopf and Alan Howard, the industry giants joined forces to raise funds and support the industry.

KARINE GOES GREEN

Karine Jackson has closed her Covent Garden salon after 20 years to focus on a new adventure, the launch of her sustainability consultancy for the hair and beauty industry. Karine explains “I can quickly see where businesses need to implement new policies and make changes to become more sustainable, I’m looking forward to working with salons, brands, events and more for this new project.”

SAMANTHA SHARES THE YUV LOVE

Beauty tech company yuv has announced the appointment of Samantha Cusick as its first UK colour ambassador. Samantha, a respected colour expert and owner of two salons in London, will work with yuv to promote the brand’s innovative and sustainable approach to professional hair colouring.

COMB AND GET IT!

In its latest charitable act, Denman has gifted student kits to young people belonging to the Hair At The Academy training salon. Welcoming people from all walks of life, the Academy trains students from the age of 13 that may be struggling with mental health, being in the care system, seeking asylum or experiencing homelessness. Each kit was created in collaboration with college educators and includes seven brushes and three combs.

MURDER. OBSESSION. HAIRDRESSING. LUKE BENSON ANNOUNCES SALON OPENING

Former London Hairdresser of the Year turned session stylist, Luke Benson, has announced the launch of his inaugural salon in the picturesque market town of Berkhamsted in September 2023. Luke Benson Hair will specialise in cut, colour, styling and occasion hair, drawing on Luke’s red-carpet

AN EVOLVING INDUSTRY

Introducing Hair Evolve, the new event for hair professionals and students from Essex to inspire, educate and network within the industry. Featuring brand partner Zen Hair, the launch recently took place at the Jet Hairdressing Academy in Basildon, attracting over 80 delegates from colleges, academies and hair salons.

THERE’S A NEW SESSION AGENCY IN TOWN

With more than 20 years in the industry as a session stylist, hairstylist and celebrity groomer, Joe Mills has launched JM Agency. Having worked on the project for the last nine months behind the scenes, Joe has brought together a broad spectrum of artists and photographers to offer something with a completely fresh approach.

A NEW ERA FOR ALTERNATIVE HAIR

The Alternative Hair Show is returning for its 41st year, fundraising for Leukemia and Blood Cancer charities, as well as promoting global artistic hairdressing. Tickets are available at: www.rdr.link/HAL001

WINNER ANNOUNCED FOR THE NEXT COLOR GENHAIRATION AWARD

The UK winner of the ALFAPARF Milano

Professional Next Color GenHAIRation Award has been announced as Mikey Lewis from bebop, London. Following the win, Mikey will represent the UK in the Global Final taking place in October 2023.

SUN, SEA & A SIZZLING LINE-UP OF SPEAKERS...

WHERE: The stunning five-star Higueron Hotel in Malaga, Spain.

WHO ATTENDED: Over 150 salon owners and their team members.

WHAT DID THEY DO: Guests enjoyed two full days of inspirational business presentations; insights and advice from expert speakers; exclusive networking opportunities and two incredible nights of al fresco dining and entertainment hosted under the stars overlooking the Mediterranean.

DAY1

YET

AGAIN,

THE FIFTH KAO SALON HUB NETWORK 2023 DID NOT DISAPPOINT.

DAY ONE KICKED OFF WITH A WARM WELCOME FROM HOSTS –KAO SALON DIVISION UK & IRELAND GENERAL MANAGER, JULIE WINCHESTER, AND DIRECTOR OF SALES, MITCH LUCAS.

LIZ MCKEON CHANGING THE SHAPE OF YOUR SALON

Liz shared with HUB members her strategies for business growth through increasing revenues and improving systems to generate salon profit.

“Go for the little wins that add to the bottom line and make your salon the only choice in your client’s mind.”

DR JONATHAN WOOD, KAO EUROPEAN RESEARCH LABORATORY

THE FUTURE OF COLOR

The HUB audience was given insights into the science and innovation of hair colour brilliance and lightening technology, learning how Kao Salon is developing the future performance of professional salon colour.

JACK STRATTEN, HEAD OF TRENDS AT INSIDER TRENDS

THE FUTURE OF RETAIL SPACES, CUSTOMERS AND EXPERIENCES

HUB members were inspired to think about the future of their salons and how to leverage the creation of elevated community experiences.

“Think about what you can offer that the internet can’t.”

BERND WAGENKNECHT, SR BUSINESS INNOVATION MANAGER, KS GLOBAL SALON TRENDS

Discussing the death of the one-size-fits-all-salon, Bernd lifted the lid on ‘innovation culture’ and the key trends set to frame the salons of the future.

specialisation your USP.”

To mark the end of the first day of The HUB Network, guests gathered at the rooftop infinity pool bar for a Spanish buffet with a stunning view across the mountain vista and the Mediterranean.

WELCOMED BACK BY KAO SALON DIVISION DIRECTOR OF SALES, MITCH LUCAS, DAY TWO OF THE HUB NETWORK KICKED OFF WITH AN INSPIRING OPENING TALK FROM 2014 RUNNER-UP OF THE APPRENTICE AND AWARD-WINNING ENTREPRENEUR, BIANCA MILLER-COLE.

BIANCA MILLER-COLE, THE BE GROUP BUILDING A POWERFUL PERSONAL BRAND

Bianca shared her expertise on how to create a powerful personal brand in business.

“People buy from people.”

“Customers are your brand ambassadors.”

“Network is your Net Worth.”

CAROLINE SANDERSON

THE SALON JEDI BUILDING A FUTURE FOR YOUR SALON

Caroline highlighted the importance of the ‘Big 4’ priorities – staff, time, team, profit –that salons must get right to secure success.

NATHAN AGLAND, CUSTOMER MARKETING, KAO SALON UKI

THE FUTURE OF AI

Nathan tackled the daunting and exciting rise of Artificial Intelligence and the impact on the hairdressing industry. He provided insights into the opportunities and limitations of AI, leaving HUB members with food for thought on how AI may shape the future of the salon industry.

“We’re dedicated to ensuring that our Kao Salon HUB Network event offers our salon partners an innovative platform, along with the latest business insights, tools and resources that they need to excel in their craft and thrive in a rapidly changing industry. We hope all of our customers took home some practical insights and inspiration from our amazing speakers and each other to help support and grow their own salon businesses.”

JULIE WINCHESTER, GENERAL MANAGER, KAO SALON DIVISION UK & IRELAND

CLAIRE BRUMBY MINDSET MASTERY

Claire shared her powerful message about focusing on innovation and positive disruption to drive success, teaching how to accept and manage change to be successful.

“Find the fun in your business. When the fun goes, the passion dies.”

“Growth hides where fear resides.”

MITCH LUCAS, DIRECTOR OF SALES, KAO SALON DIVISION UKI

As is the Kao Salon tradition, the final word was given to Mitch Lucas as he wrapped up The HUB Network 2023 with an inspiring and motivational message for the Kao Salon family: “Passion is contagious. Let’s look to the future, collaborate and work together to help each other grow.”

Guests then enjoyed the final evening with a traditional three course meal at La Nina Bonita overlooking the seafront in Malaga, before dancing the night away.

DAY2

MAKING THE TOP

Bringing together their teams and industry friends, HOB Salons recently celebrated its 40th anniversary with a special event, awards and party.

HOB Salons first launched in 1983 with directors Akin Konizi, Clive Collins and Paul Simbler, creating one of the most respected and admired brands in the world of hairdressing.

Held at the fashionable NOBU Hotel in central London, the event kicked off with an emotional speech from the directors. “We’ve come a long way in 40 years. The world is a very different place today compared to back then, but there’s one thing that’s still the same - and that’s our vision,” explained Paul Simbler. “This has always been to create successful people through excellence and integrity, whilst being able to offer everyone the opportunity to reach their potential.”

Clive added: “We first launched Hair on Broadway in 1983 –David Bowie was number one with Let’s Dance, Margaret Thatcher was the first female Prime Minister and a can of Coke was14p.”

The partners recognised a host of employees who had been with the company for more than 20 years – and were delighted at the number that had remained loyal, dedicated team members for so long. “The amount of people who have been on our journey with us is incredible, and most of them are still in our lives,” said Akin. General manager Natasha Grossman spoke for everyone when she said: “You don’t get anywhere in life without sacrifice and determination, and you don’t build a legacy within the hairdressing industry by luck or by taking the easy path.”

The award-winning Creative Team –Jake Unger, Nestor Sanchez and Dale Herne –led by Akin, presented stunning looks and discussed the importance of giving their clients beautiful hair that creates the ‘wow’ factor.After the show and presentations, the event culminated with guests partying into the night with champagne and cocktails flowing in celebration of HOB’s milestone achievement.

THE POWER OF THREE

FORTY YEARS AGO, THREE YOUNG HAIRDRESSERS FULL OF ENTHUSIASM AND PASSION SET UP THEIR FIRST SALON IN MILL HILL. NOW, 40 YEARS LATER, THEIR DEDICATION, VISION AND DIRECTION IS UNRIVALLED. THE THREE HAIRDRESSERS – AKIN KONIZI, CLIVE COLLINS AND PAUL SIMBLER – WENT ON TO CREATE ONE OF THE MOST RECOGNISABLE BRANDS IN THE WORLD, WITH A WHOLE ARMOURY OF AWARDS TO THEIR NAME.

AKIN KONIZI HAS BEEN NAMED BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FOUR TIMES, WHILE THE TRIO HAVE WON NUMEROUS AWARDS FOR THEIR BUSINESS ACUMEN. THEIR PASSION FOR THE CRAFT OF HAIRDRESSING HAS BEEN CELEBRATED AROUND THE WORLD, MOST RECENTLY WHEN THEY WON BEST COMMERCIAL COLLECTION 2023 AT THE AIPP AWARDS IN MAY. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE BOYS TO LOOK BACK AT THEIR HERITAGE AND LOOK FORWARD TO THE NEXT 40 YEARS.

WHERE DID YOU FIRST MEET AND WHAT WERE YOUR INITIAL IMPRESSIONS OF EACH OTHER?

PAUL: We first met in 1985 in our salon in Mill Hill when Akin came in for an interview. Clive and I grew up together and were friends from when we were babies, so we already knew each other inside out. We were 25 years old when we met a 22-year-old Akin. The salon had already been open for a few years and we were looking to start making moves in the industry.

AKIN: I was invited for an interview and spoke to Clive on the phone. My first impression was ‘where the hell was I?’, I had never heard of Mill Hill and Clive had made it sound like it was Covent Garden on the phone, but I ended up in the north west of London!

CLIVE: We invited Akin for an interview and thought he was very trendy when he arrived – we could tell straight away he was a great hairdresser!

WHAT DID YOU WANT TO ACHIEVE WHEN YOU FIRST SET UP HAIR ON BROADWAY?

PAUL: We wanted our salon to be a household name in the area –to be known for first-class, professional hairdressing locally.

WHERE DID THE NAME ‘HAIR ON BROADWAY’ COME FROM AND WHY DID YOU CHANGE IT?

CLIVE: My wife Gina came up with the name when we were thinking of where we should open our own salon. The name of the street was The Broadway hence why we called the salon Hair on Broadway. We changed it when Akin came on board as he felt, correctly, that we wouldn’t always be opening on a Broadway and we needed progression in the brand, which he brought to the business.

HOW IMPORTANT WAS YOUR ARTISTIC VISION WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED AND HOW DID YOU DECIDE WHAT IT WOULD BE?

AKIN: We realised from the beginning that to have a successful business, different elements were necessary. There were three things we needed – I brought Creativity, Paul brought Consistency and Clive brought Service –that was the recipe for success! The artistic vision was based on a Sassoon-esque education mixed with salon-desirable haircutting and colour. It’s something we are incredibly proud of and passionate about, the skills and knowledge of hairdressing.

WHAT CHANGES HAVE YOU SEEN IN THE INDUSTRY OVER THE PAST 40 YEARS AND WHAT DO YOU DO TO STAY RELEVANT TODAY?

CLIVE: Things have become a lot tougher over the years in terms of red tape for small businesses. Social media is a big part of our everyday operations now –which

wasn’t there when we started –and has a massive effect on our business. Most recently, a lack of technical skills and discipline means, like a lot of salons, we are struggling to recuit good, qualified people. We hold regular team meetings with our amazing people within the company in order to progress us all, and we have an incredible training programme they can all access to further their skills and knowledge.

PAUL: The reason we opened our Academy was to keep us relevant, educated and motivated. We stay on top of what is happening in the worlds of music, fashion and celebrity, and set trends within the industry to excite.

WHAT’S YOUR BIGGEST MEMORY FROM THE PAST 40 YEARS?

AKIN: Winning Artistic Team of the Year, British Colour Technician of the Year and British Hairdresser of the Year for the first time are all amazing memories. To win the British title meant as much to me the fourth time as it did the first time. For me, winning is not a destination, it’s a continuous journey; it meant that I hadn’t peaked but was continuing to grow and develop. This helped the business enormously in terms of recruitment, our profile and motivation for every member of our team –not to mention the impact it had on attracting new team members to the salons and also students to our Academy.

WHAT DO YOU WANT HOB’S LEGACY TO BE?

AKIN: I want our legacy to be one of ‘integrity to the craft’, but also that we created a great business.

IN ONE WORD, HOW WOULD YOU SUM UP YOUR 40 YEAR JOURNEY?

CLIVE: Fun.

AKIN: Hard.

PAUL: Rewarding.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD?

PAUL: We’ve got a strong business, an incredible team and have worked with some amazing people along the way. Natasha Grossman is our General Manager, she has HOB in her blood. We’ve always invested in our team members and our Head of Education, Jake Unger, has been with us since he was an apprentice at the age of 16 –having worked with Akin for 17 years, he knows the importance of strong training and learning the craft. We have come a long way in 40 years; the world was a very different place back then, but there is one thing that has stayed the same, our vision. That has always been to create successful people through excellence and integrity, whilst being able to offer everyone the opportunity to reach their potential.

2 IT TAKES

THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY IS AWASH WITH DYNAMIC DUOS. THESE POWERFUL PAIRINGS BRING SOMETHING UNIQUE TO A BUSINESS OR PROJECT WITH THEIR COMBINED CREDENTIALS. HERE, WE CATCH UP WITH FOUR OF HAIRDRESSING’S STRONGEST DOUBLE ACTS...

BFFs

JAMIE

AND SALLY BROOKS, BROOKS & BROOKS

After meeting in 1990 at the flagship Trevor Sorbie salon, Sally and Jamie Brooks bonded over their shared passion for hairdressing and quickly struck up a great friendship. The duo opened their first salon together in London in 2001.

“I’ve always been the MD and CEO, and Sally has always been the Creative Director and Co-director,” says Jamie. “When we started, we had two staff members, now there’s over 40 of us. At the beginning we were starting a brand, now it’s about managing it.”

He continues: “Sally and I work extremely closely –we’re together 60-80 hours a week, so we’re constantly bouncing ideas off each other. The secret to our success is recognising and playing to each other’s strengths.”

“Working with your best friend means working with someone who you totally trust –you know they have your back and you have theirs. We are on the same wavelength, if one of us is busy we make sure there is help,” says Jamie. “Together, the two of us have built Brooks & Brooks, won awards, and created a brand in the industry –we’re very proud of what we’ve achieved side by side.”

Brothers in Arms

JOSHUA

AND JASON MILLER, CHARLIE MILLER HAIRDRESSING FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Joshua and Jason Miler are joint Managing Directors of Scottish salon group, Charlie Miller Hairdressing. They take different roles within the business, ensuring their individual strengths are utilised effectively.

“I run the office and everything to do with finance, admin and HR. Jason spends about 80% of his time with clients and the rest on business with me, clarifying our strategy, focus and direction for the salons,” says Joshua.

“We bounce so much off each other every day; there’s always space for each other’s input, and we always feel that we run the business together.”

As we inherited the business from our parents, family has always been at its core. Not all families find it easy to work together, but we’ve been lucky. The key is to respect each other’s talents, and to recognise that sometimes you just need to get out of the way and allow the other to push something forward,” Joshua contines. “Jason is a great ideas person and I’m a systems person; it’s the perfect mix! The only downside is that finding the time to make decisions together isn’t always easy, but it ensures the best outcomes are made and the quality is maintained.”

Like Father Like Son

STEVEN AND JOSH GOLDSWORTHY, GOLDSWORTHYS FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

As the company Director and Creative Director of a successful salon group, Steven Goldsworthy and his son Josh are highly admired industry pros.

Josh joined the family business at the age of 16, winning various awards and a place on the coveted F.A.M.E. Team to build his industry profile.

Steven has certainly experienced the benefits of having Josh –and his sister Sophie –join the business.  “Over the years with both my son and daughter joining the business, I’ve been allowed to step back a little from my responsibilities and watch them take the reins a bit more,” says Steven.

Steven’s time is currently split between looking after clients, seeing patients for trichology consultations and maintaining the group’s three salons. As the group’s Creative Director, Josh is responsible for the brand’s advertising, salon displays and awards entries. His other main focus is managing the group’s artistic team: “Itake members of our team to assist on projects, as well as guiding them through their own entries for industry awards and photoshoots for collections; at Goldsworthys we are really focusing on the future.”

Asked what he thinks makes them a dynamic industry duo, Josh says: “My dad built his profile in the industry by doing the competition scene in the UK and Europe, as well as educating. By the time I joined the industry, everything had started transitioning to a digital platform and experience was gained by assisting at fashion weeks and TV work. With his traditional training and ethos, and my modern and creative spin, we have a bit of everything.”

Mother’s Pride

LAURA AND RIA KULIK, THE HAIRBANK Mother and daughter double act, Laura and Ria, work together at The Hairbank in Manchester, with Ria joining the business at the age of 17. Recently, Ria took over the running of the salon with her mother staying on as Manager.

“My mother is my mentor, my council, and my absolute crutch to lean upon –I am extremely lucky to have this type of support. She has built a very successful, well-oiled machine, which I hope she feels I have supported alongside her over the years.”

“We balance and complement each other really well,” says Ria. We both respect each other’s opinions and have distinctive roles within the business: My mum is the mother to the whole team and really loves to motivate each individual to their fullest potential, whereas I am the organiser of the group making sure everything works more smoothly. The main difference between us is that, whilst Mum is spontaneous and a risk taker, I am more of a thinker. I like to weigh up the options before making my decisions. It’s funny hearing people say we are dynamic, as to me we are just like we’ve always been –what you see is what you get. I have been brought up by a hard-working family, full of strong women that aren’t shy of making waves –it’s definitely in our blood!”

BEYOND HAIR EXPECTATIONS

Great Lengths has launched a documentary lifting the lid on the world of hair extensions. Beyond Hair Extensions tells the story of a family-run business that has been defining excellence in the world of extensions for over 30 years.

In the 9-minute film, viewers learn about the production process, the way hair is sourced and how the company achieved its prestigious B-Corp Certification. Learn more here:

Style

BOTTLENECK BOBS AND BIRKIN BANGS

With summer being the perfect time to experiment with a new look, the team at Cosmetify analysed the top hairstyles set to trend this season:

Shiny Happy Protection

Introducing the new Ultimate Repair Range from Wella, a skincare-inspired, four-step haircare regime that delivers long-lasting shine, strength and smoothness. www.rdr.link/HAL004

LET’S GET GROOVY | LYLA-MAY WOOLLEY

If you’re like me, festival season means planning your outfits and hairstyles long before the day comes, so it’s absolutely crucial to support your clients with the best tips and tricks for festival-ready hair. Plus, this period is a great opportunity to upsell retail!

● If you want your hair to last at a festival, taking products to help top the look up as you go is a must! If you’re staying overnight and you’re after that boho look the next day, sleeping in braids will help you achieve that desired effortless look.

● For the popular Boho look that is trending right now, texturising spray is a must-have. L’Oréal Professionnel’s TECNI.ART Savage Panache Powder Spray is perfect for this, especially for those big 60s styles.

● If you’re looking to keep more of a curl, investing in a heatless curler is a great idea. Personally, I love the Kitsch Satin Heatless Curling Set, it’s works brilliantly to achieve a gorgeous curl without having access to electricity.

● Before putting your hair into your heatless style, add some oil for that gorgeous next-day shine.

● Dry shampoo is another must-have if you’re at a festival for a few days. It absorbs the excess oil, refreshes the scalp and gives great volume. For me, L’Oréal’s TECNI.ART Morning After is the perfect festival tool.

Give it a Curl!

KEVIN.MURPHY has announced an extension of the brand’s renowned KILLER.CURL collection with an all new set of products formulated to address uniquely textured hair. The addition of KILLER.CURL WASH & RINSE and KILLER.TWIRLS offers a complete regimen designed to celebrate and enhance texture, with ingredients that help create the perfect air-dried look. Learn more here: www.rdr.link/HAL005

Questions to Ask at a Cut Consultation:

Ria Kulik, North Western

of the Year and owner ofThe Hairbank in Manchester, tell us the five questions she believes every stylist should be asking their clients:

Are they happy with their look? How have they coped with it since they last came into the salon? Do they like having long hair or do they want to go shorter? If they like long hair what else can you do to make it interesting?

What do they like about their haircut? It may be easy to learn what a client doesn’t like, but ensure you take the time to find out what they do like about their haircut too – the fluffy texture could be just what they love!

What do you dislike about your hairstyle? Sometimes there’s something a client really doesn’t like that they will never mention, so give them the opportunity to say what this is.

What products do they use at home? Talk to them about the importance of professional haircare – you’re not selling them products; you’re ensuring the money they are spending on their haircut isn’t wasted. Advise haircare programmes that are simple, effective and easy to follow.

What tools do they use? It could be that your client just needs some styling advice to get the best from their hairstyle – introduce them to the delights of the diffuser, the importance of the cold shot or some tricks with the tongs.

Hairdresser

BLACK HENNA TATTOOS: BE AWARE

The topic of black henna tattoos might not be on the top of your list when talking to clients about their holiday, but it’s crucial to be aware of their potential danger when associated with hair colour. In the UK, black henna is illegal due to it containing the chemical p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) which is also found in dark hair dyes. Whilst PPD is completely legal in hair dye, it is strictly regulated and only allowed to a certain

for use across all colour brands. Learn more about the at-home colour test here:

Tiramisu Trends

colour

This month, we caught up with hair colour expert and Osmo Ambassador, on the latest seasonal trends for the summer ahead:

Right now, a popular summer hair colour trend is the ‘Tiramisu’. This is a trend that consists of three different shades of

a root smudge, where the highlights are lightly painted over with a shade closer to the natural hue. This creates a subtle blend of dark and light, which offers a beautifully natural look as well as being extremely low maintenance.

sure this is top of your clients’ holiday must-haves. Choose a product with multi-benefits like Matrix Miracle Creator, which not only protects the hair and scalp, but conditions, primes and styles too.

✔ Give clients advice on how to wear hair with a hat or scarf. As well as looking cool, it will protect their summer colour too.

✔ If you soak your hair with ‘good’ water it can’t absorb ‘bad’ water, so tell your clients to saturate their hair with ‘good’ water before they go into the sea or pool.

Sustainable

GET READY TO GO GREEN

Melenie Tudor, owner of En Route in Wakefield, believes that greener practices will not only make salons environmentally sustainable, but will support the longevity of businesses too.

ECO-CONSCIOUS CURLS

Created through the ethical choice to work using organic ingredients, Insight Professional develops products with nature as its inspiration. It’s award-winning textured hair range, Elasti-Curl, works to reactivate and elasticise the curl using over 94% naturally derived ingredients. Whilst also being Nickel tested and Vegan OK Certified, this frizz-fighting curl range comes in lightweight, recyclable and sustainable packaging. www.rdr.link/HAL007

Shampoo Sustainably with Gina Conway

To promote sustainability within her business, multi-award winning salon owner, Gina , has introduced an Eco Shampoo to her salon.

Gina explains: “The Eco Shampoo technique helps to save essential water and energy, helping us meet our pledge to combat climate change. It also deeply cleanses the scalp without that first rinse, helping to exfoliate and pull out impurities in a more efficient way, as well as reducing colour fade.” 1

Prepoo: Fill a tint bottle 3/4 of the way with hot water and add one tablespoon of shampoo. Shake vigorously to make a foam soufflé. 2

On dry hair: Squirt foam all over the roots and massage in, especially the back of the head which people don’t tend to wash properly at home.

Here are her top tips to get started:

● Look more closely at your suppliers and their sustainable policies. If you are not happy with their ingredients or how they are sourced, look to work with brands that have certified eco-credentials.

● Do some research into recycling options in your area. En Route utilise the Green Salon Collective to reduce the amount of salon waste going to landfill by recycling chemicals, contaminated foils, colour tubes and even hair. We’ve also partnered with local allotments who use our hair clippings for compost!

● Introduce an ‘Eco Fee’ to offset any recycling costs. At En route, our clients are very accepting of our extra £1 charge as they appreciate the steps we’re taking to protect the planet.

● Consider a product refill system, these are great for helping both your salon and clients reduce their plastic use.

● Switch to disposable towels –we use Easydry which are recyclable and biodegradable.

● Look to fit eco shower heads for your salon basins. We use Super Soft Shower heads which clean, purify and soften the water. It has considerably reduced our water consumption.

3

If needed: add some more water (30 second rinse) and do a second Eco Shampoo if the first does not provide a good lather. Then rinse out.

● Educate your staff about the changes you are making and why. Knowledge is power and the more they know, the more they will be able to spread the word about your sustainable practices.

BOSSIN’ itwith

Brain is a Supercomputer

business

funding band which will help restore apprenticeships.

The revised standard will include further content to reflect the state of hair salons and barbershops in today’s society, including: employee rights, industry codes of conduct, social media and the mental health of

have provided an enormous amount of evidence to ensure the revised standard and funding band reflects the breadth of learning and professionalism within our industry.

For more information on the state of apprenticeships, visit: www.rdr.link/HAL009

Your

HAIR ME OUT

THIS MONTH, CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW BARTON LOOKS AT WHY IT’S

As a hairdresser, your passion for creativity is what drives you to excel in your craft. However, when you find yourself juggling the responsibilities of running a column and managing staff, it can be challenging to maintain that creative spark. It’s important to remember that even amidst the demands of your managerial role, or running a column, or juggling your home life, there are ways to nurture your creativity and continue to grow as an artist. By actively seeking collaborations and engaging with like-minded professionals, you can keep your creative fire alive.

One of the most effective ways to stay creative as a hairdresser is through seeking partnerships with photographers, models, make-up artists, stylists, and other hairdressers. These collaborations can provide fresh perspectives, new ideas and opportunities for creative expression. By engaging in these projects, you don’t only broaden your network, but you push the boundaries of your own creativity, ultimately making yourself a better hairdresser.

In today’s digital age, social media platforms have become powerful tools for connecting with fellow professionals and potential collaborators. Utilise platforms like Instagram and TikTok to reach out to other industry professionals in your area – share your work, engage in conversations, and explore the possibility of future collaborations.

effective way to remain creative as a hairdresser. These events offer valuable opportunities to network with industry professionals, learn from experts and discover new approaches to hairstyling. I’ve met some fantastic people at Pro Hair Live, for example, who I’ve then gone on to work with. Stay informed about local and international hairdressing events, exhibitions and conferences, and make an effort to attend as many as possible. Engage in conversations, exchange ideas and embrace the energy of the creative community.

Start collaborating as soon as you start your career. By establishing connections with university or college students in fields like photography, set design and fashion, you can foster a sense of growth and camaraderie. Together, you can learn from each other, explore new concepts and evolve in your respective careers. For instance, I’ve worked with the photographer Jack Eames for over 15 years, for brand campaigns as well as collection shoots. Recently, we joined together to work on a project idea we’ve kicked about for a few years – it’s so rewarding to see a creative idea that you’ve worked on with someone finally come to fruition.

Regardless of your age, working with young, aspiring professionals can be incredibly beneficial. The energy and enthusiasm of young creatives can invigorate your own artistic journey. This is why I love to mentor young teams – I learn as much as they do. My college visits for ABLE are always inspiring, I’m so lucky to be able to witness the next generation growing and learning as hairdressers.

Remember, staying creative requires a proactive approach. Make a conscious effort to prioritise your creativity alongside your managerial responsibilities. Set aside time for personal projects, experiment with new techniques and continuously challenge yourself to think outside the box. By nurturing your own creative spirit, you’ll not only enhance your professional growth, but also inspire your staff and clients to seek new opportunities and develop new skills.

Running a column and managing staff as a hairdresser can sometimes feel overwhelming, but it’s essential to preserve your creative spirit. Engage with the creative community through social media and connect with young professionals to expand your network and gain fresh perspectives. By embracing these practices, you can strike a balance between your managerial responsibilities and your passion for artistic expression, ensuring that you continue to thrive as a creative hairdresser.

Follow Andrew @Andrew_barton_hair  and @andrewbartonlondoneducation ABLE  Andrew is:

UK Creative Ambassador for salon-only brand Keune.

Creative Director Racoon Hair Extensions

Honorary Ambassador The Hair & Barber Council  Hairdresser Ambassador The Little Princess Trust

IMPORTANT TO KEEP CREATIVE AT ALL STAGES OF YOUR CAREER.

“Stay informed about local and international hairdressing events, exhibitions, and conferences, and make an effort to attend as many as possible... embrace the energy of the creative community.”

POWER PARTNERSHIP The of

Encouraging and enabling action through a dynamic business and creative collaboration is essential to your future salon success. Multi award-winning salon group, Rush Hair, appreciate this relationship and have recently rekindled an exciting partnership with Goldwell. Andy

Phouli,

Co-Founder and Joint CEO of Rush Hair,explains:

“Working with Goldwell provides Rush with the perfect balance of creativity and good business sense. Both companies share the same values, and as brands we appreciate the importance of creating a family-like team and building a strong community. We are a salon group renowned for our colour work and we know that the training and support provided by Goldwell will ensure an increase in our colour business, making our salons more profitable.”

This new partnership has already welcomed two creative collaborations with Rush, firstly premiering the new Goldwell Topchic Zero on the Kao Salon Showcase UK Tour. Secondly, the first Rush After Dark session of 2023 which highlighted the creative talents of the Rush Art, Session, Colour and Education teams working with the Goldwell product portfolio. Andy Heasman, Rush International Artistic Director, recognises the importance of this creative collaboration:

“As a creative team, we are delighted to be working with Kao Salon Division. We have a mutual passion for creativity, and both Goldwell and Rush have a desire to share techniques that can be used in salon to motivate stylists to continually develop their craft, as well as a creative platform to our peers.”

“The recent activity the Rush Art Team have worked on with Goldwell has been an incredible experience, and the feedback we have received from salons who have attended the events has been exceptional. Live education is integral to the industry, and the partnership with Goldwell and Rush will provide this to an inspirational standard.”

AN EFFECTIVE SALON BUSINESS PARTNERSHIP WILL HELP YOU ACHIEVE THE BEST CLIENT EXPERIENCE IN YOUR SALON. IN THE EVER-EVOLVING WORLD OF HAIRDRESSING, FINDING THE RIGHT BRAND PARTNER IS CRUCIAL TO DRIVING GROWTH, CREATIVITY AND PROFITABILITY.

Stell Andrew - Rush, Julie Winchester - Kao, Andy Phouli - Rush, Mitch Lucas - Kao

SO, WHAT SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR IN A PARTNER BRAND?

BELIEVE

IN ACHIEVING THE SAME GOALS

BY YOUR SIDE:

Unparalleled Business Support

STAND BY YOUR BRAND: Heritage

Kao Salon Divison’s rich heritage, dating back to 1887, portrays its unwavering values, philosophy, and reputation – which invokes trust and positive emotion. Partnering with a brand with such great heritage and standing will also result in greater client trust in your salon.

Empower yourself to overcome challenges, achieve sustainable growth and maximise salon profitability by utilising all the comprehensive business support, tools and resources Kao Salon Divison has to offer. Goldwell’s Color Atelier, as an example, is a huge business support to salon owners, allowing them to up their colour profile and demonstrate their expertise to clients.

GREENER TOGETHER: Commitment to Sustainability

By partnering with Kao, you can align your business with a sustainable future. Kao’s vision is to create a real and lasting change, aiming to reduce its collective impact on the environment by streamlining the footprint of each of its brand’s product portfolios and empowering you, the salon owner, to operate your salon more sustainably.

A LEARNING EXPERIENCE: Education that empowers Kao Salon Division offers world-class education to empower you and your business. Covering everything from business building courses to trendsetting techniques and artistic creativity, as well as networking events like the uber-popular HUB Network event for salon owners, to be inspired and to be top of your game.

CORE VALUES: Community at the heart of Kao Salon

“Education and community are at the very heart of both Rush and Kao Salon values. We are so excited to have Rush and the Rush Art Team back onboard as part of the Kao Salon community. The Rush Art Team have educated, motivated and inspired hairdressers around the world and we can’t wait to work closely with them, continuing to inspire our industry.”

SHAPING THE FUTURE: Leading innovation

From revolutionary colour systems to breakthrough styling products and luxurious haircare solutions, Kao Salon Division’s 3000 scientists are shaping the future of the industry, ensuring that salon professionals and clients alike can enjoy the very best in haircare advancements.

The recent launch of Topchic Zero provides you with a new and relevant solution for colour clients that know what they want. This incredibly caring, ammonia-free addition to the iconic Topchic range gives you a naturally reliable alternative in your colour armoury, ensuring clients are happy and proving you are at the forefront of colour offerings.

Are

29 advertorial

Partnering with Kao Salon Division helps to achieve a collective vision for you, your salon and your clients. The benefits and advantages of joining forces will give you unrivalled access to the following:

SUMMER The EDIT

THIS MONTH, WE SPOKE TO A NUMBER OF TOP-PERFORMING PROFESSIONAL BRANDS AND AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSERS TO COMPILE A SERIOUS SET OF INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SUMMER AHEAD. FROM HUMIDITY HAIR HACKS AND HEAT-DAMAGE REMEDIES, TO CHLORINE CONTROL AND COLOUR CARE, ENSURE YOU ARE OFFERING YOUR CLIENTS THE VERY BEST HAIRCARE ADVICE THIS HOLIDAY SEASON.

Summer can lead to heat and humidity, and I think we’ve all experienced the havoc humidity can wreak on our hairstyles! My best advice to combat this is to ensure the hair keeps well moisturised, the cuticle is sealed and a humidity resistant product is in play. For this, I like to use Paul Mitchell’s Clean Beauty Smooth range to help smooth things over with a little plant-based persuasion. Both the Anti-Frizz Shampoo and Conditioner are enriched with hyaluronic acid to nourish, hydrate and smoothe the hair’s surface.

Get the look

SUMMER LOVIN’

Combining sensuous application with comprehensive care and effective protection, the Soleil Range from La Biosthétique cares for sun-stressed hair. With a complex of sunflower seeds and natural antioxidants from rice and rosemary, the range protects against UV damage to provide weather protection and unmatched hold.

Including the Shampoo, Hydrating Mask, Conditioning Spray and Styling Lacquer, the products work to protect the fibres with an intensively conditioning moisture boost, as well as removing sea and chlorinated water residues.

www.rdr.link/HAL011

Should hair suffer from the effects of the sun, repairing products are a must! Shampoos, conditioners, masks, creams and oils are a great way to help repair the hair and restore the strength and moisture that the sun may have zapped from it. The Alterna Bond Repair Shampoo and Conditioner are an excellent reparative duo to mend split ends, reduce frizz and make hair smoother, softer and shinier.

JOANA NEVES, ALTERNA EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

GOT A POCKETFUL OF SUNSHINE

Offering optimum colour protection and hair repair solutions for use before, during and after sun exposure, the Invigo Sun range from Wella Professionals works to restore lost moisture. To prevent the hair from becoming dry and brittle from overexposure, Wella’s UV Hair Colour Protection Spray is specially developed to keep the hair constantly hydrated throughout those sunny days.

www.rdr.link/HAL013

SUMMERTIME AND THE LIVING IS EASY

Offering a golden retail opportunity for salons, the BC Sun Protect 2023 collection from Schwarzkopf Professional combines serious suncare with clean performance. The range includes three suitcase-friendly hero products ready to keep your clients’ hair healthy and happy during the summer months. Including the Scalp, Hair & Body Cleanse, 10-in-1 Summer Fluid and 2-in-1 Treatment, the products work to protect and nourish the hair for shiny, healthy and glowing results. www.rdr.link/HAL012

HERE COMES THE SUN TIM SCOTT-WRIGHT

‘Pre-holiday, I get my clients in for a fresh cut to remove any dry or damaged hair and recommend a bonding treatment to repair any damage before they travel. You want your clients’ hair to be in the best condition possible before being exposed to such high heats.

Post holiday, I get my clients back into the salon as soon as possible. Particularly if they have coloured hair, as it’s likely they will need a toner to eliminate any discolouration from the sun. I also trim any damaged ends and use intensive, restorative treatments to revive the condition of the hair.’

Wave After Wave

Nothing says summer like a salt spray! Containing UV technology UVisiShield to protect from the sun’s damaging UV rays, the Fudge Professional Salt Spray enables you to deliver on-trend, beach waves, whilst protecting the hair at the same time. Simply spritz it through the lengths and leave to air-dry with its delicious, coconut, beachy scent.

www.rdr.link/HAL014

More than ever, clients are embracing the summer holidays again and really treating themselves to a week or two in the sunshine. As hairdressers, we are fully aware of how fragile hair is, so it’s essential that we put in as much pre-sunshine care that we can to minimise damage. The top piece of advice that I share with all my clients is to use a hair masque throughout the day – this helps to prevent sun rays, chlorine and salt water drying out the hair and causing breakage.

GILL BERRY, JOICO

School’s Out!

There’s a new professional retail brand in town! Introducing LeaLuo – a brand striving to equip the youth of today with multi-beneficial products that encourage genuine self-expression. Its range of eight different semi-permanent, vegan hair masks, Galaxy Paint, allows users to express and embody their personal style without compromising on quality.

www.rdr.link/HAL015

MR. BLUE SKY

JIM SHAW, Director of TONI&GUY Billericay, gives us his top tips on advising male clients how to keep their hair looking its best during the summer season.

1

When it comes to styling, less is more. The sun is already causing damage to the hair, so it’s a great time for clients to take a step away from the heated styling tools and avoid further damage being done.

2

Embrace natural and effortless hair looks. Textured beach waves are a great look for men in the summer, particularly if they already have naturally wavy or curly hair. To enhance the look further, a salt spray can also be scrunched into damp or dry hair.

3

Choose sleek styles to give an added dose of moisture. Oils, serums and shine sprays are three products that are great for slicking the hair to one side or back off the face to create a sophisticated and well-groomed finish – plus, they are incredibly hydrating.

Keep up with seasonal trends. During the summer, ponytails, half-updos and buns often make an expected comeback. However, right now we are seeing a contemporary shift, with more men teaming their man buns and ponytails with a haircut that’s very short at the sides and longer on top.

4

EVERYBODY’S GONE SURFIN’

Inject instant volume and matte texture to the hair this summer with Sea Salt Spray from Murdock London. Not only offering an effortless, surfer-chic finish, the product is also effective in reviving flat, tired hair to refresh any look.

www.rdr.link/HAL016

Walking on Sunshine

Understanding the importance of investing in UV protection, Aveda has created its Sun Care Protective Hair Veil to minimise the damage and dryness caused from sun exposure. Enriched with Aveda’s own pure-fume aroma with certified organic neroli, ylang ylang and cistus, the water-resistant defence mist is designed for all hair types. It is ideally paired with the Sun Care Hair and Body Cleanser, a colour-safe shampoo that gently removes chlorine, salt and product residue.

www.rdr.link/HAL017

SUNSHINE OF YOUR LOVE

For afro and excessively curly hair – type 4 hair – it is particularly crucial to be mindful of the effects of hot weather, including UV damage, dryness and humidity. We spoke to Avlon European Education Director, JACQUI MCINTOSH, on the efficient ways to prepare clients’ afro hair for rising temperatures.

1

Increase Moisture: Deep conditioning is key to keeping afro hair hydrated. Clients should look to boost their frequency of deep conditioning treatments.

2

Support A Regular Regime: Encourage your clients to have a regular moisturising regime that includes night-time haircare. This will hydrate, soften and smoothen the hair during sleep, preparing it for the hot weather.

3

Be Creative and Protective: Up-dos are great for keeping moisture locked into the hair. Instead of reaching for the electricals, show your clients how to create simple chignons, twists, banto knots or braided buns.

4

Wrap it Up: Just like we cover up to protect our skin from UV rays, encourage clients to keep the strong summer sun off the hair and scalp through making use of silk or satin scarves wrapped around the head. It’s also a quick and easy way to accessorise the outfit!

Encourage clients that do a lot of swimming on holiday to use a deep cleanse shampoo, this will get rid of all the chlorine that can build up in their hair. We also recommend colour safe shampoos and conditioners, as the sun can cause vibrant colours to fade. Many clients will have spent a lot of money on pre-holiday hair, so it’s important to encourage them to look after it as part of your service.

MELENIE TUDOR, EN ROUTE

SUMMER DAYS, DRIFTING AWAY

The answer to post-holiday hair? Helping to correct discolouration and brassiness from the build-up of hard water deposits and impurities, the Malibu C Hard Water Wellness Remedy sachet is a unique formula that works to repair damage from the drying effects of sunshine and chlorine, leaving hair instantly softer, shinier, and full of life.

www.rdr.link/HAL018

You’re so Golden

For dry, damaged hair in need of some summer lovin’, the Instant Resurfacing Lightweight Golden Masque from L’Oréal Professionnel is infused with gold quinoa and protein to instantly restore hair damage. Its luxurious, butter-like formula carefully envelopes the hair, leaving the fibres shinier and softer for an overall controlled look.

www.rdr.link/HAL019

We’re All Going on a Summer Holiday

Quench thirsty hair with this lightweight, replenishing shampoo and conditioner set from Shed. Designed for carry-on baggage, the Thirst Quencher duo is ideal for hydrating hair that has become dry from chlorine or salt water during the summer holidays. To combat damage, the set uses wheatgerm oil to boost hydration and strengthen weak hair.

www.rdr.link/HAL021

This Summer I Went Swimming

Expertly crafted for that post-swim detangle, the glides responsively through the hair for minimum breakage and maximum shine. Made with patented FLEXGUARD technology, each bristle uses complete 360-degree motion to reduce tension and gently free knots.

www.rdr.link/HAL020

Get the look

Sheree Thompson, ASP UK Ambassador

THOSE OCEAN EYES

Introducing a premium lightweight sea salt spray from Salt Grooming, formulated with natural and organic actives to offer effortless volume, grip and texture. This Marine Mist works efficiently to enhance natural waves and bring flat hair back to life.

www.rdr.link/HAL022

I always advise my clients on two holiday must-haves, a hair masque and a hat – simple!

AINSLEY GRAY, F&M HAIRDRESSING

Summer usually means lighter hair for lots of guests, however it can be the perfect time to go a few shades darker and take a step back from the bleach too. Adding more rooted, natural blonde tones will still freshen-up any style in time for summer, as well as helping to avoid any harsh root lines as the natural colour grows back. Remember, hair will always be lifted naturally by the sunlight so make sure clients don’t go too light in the salon before jetting off on holiday.

BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM, ROAR

FACINGtheVALUE

HOW TO REALLY MOVE YOUR BUSINESS FORWARD

The issue of increasing our prices is never an easy one, but the valorisation strategy can help you move your business forward. This is the science of motivating consumers to pay more for brands, products, and services, which most brands need to move forward and to grow their market. In simple terms, we need to make clients understand why our price increase is actually a benefit to them.

Firstly, you need to stop listening to all the incorrect information you see on Instagram. I feel the industry is sharing far too much with the consumers –we should never tell clients that our prices have only increased because our expenses have gone up. Instead, we need to create value on the service we are selling.

To increase the perceived value, we have to give a good experience and make the clients understand that this is all done for them. We need to increase prices tactically based on specific strategies for our target market –remember, value is in the eye of the beholder.

So, what steps can salon owners take?

Focus on growing your client base.

The number one way to generate more profit is simple; you need to get more clients into your salon and retain them. The cost of acquiring new clients is high, and you will likely need to focus your attention on marketing or special offers to get new faces through your doors. But it will be worth it.

Increase customer spend.

Along with increasing the number of clients you have on your books, the next best way to improve your salon profit is to increase the amount of money your existing clients spend per visit. It’s well known that your most loyal clients are more likely to spend more with you. So again, building a relationship with everyone who visits your salon is vital.

Encourage your clients to visit the salon more often. Just as you want to get as many repeat clients as possible, you also want to maximise the number of times they come to your salon. The more they return to you, the more profit your salon will make. There are a few simple ways to start doing this: ask clients if they want to book their next

appointment before they leave, and don’t underestimate the power of loyalty schemes.

Reduce your salon overheads. It’s very important to trim away anything that is eating too far into your profit margin.Every year, you should analyse all of your overheads and identify any points of unnecessary spending. Always check that you are getting the best deals for your fixed costs, such as energy bills and insurance. We have managed to swap the way we work by creating the same profit with 30 people fewer on our pay roll, in turn allowing us to give our existing staff a salary increase.

However, if you feel your business is becoming stagnant, it’s important to focus on company culture and implement some changes. We need to do more than simply incentivise our team with money; instead, we should focus on creating purpose and impact.If we fail to do this from the top-down, we will never get the work we need from the bottom-up. It’s that simple.

Culture is essential for companies of all sizes. Many small companies begin with culture, but lose it as they grow. To avoid this, make fun marketing your priority. Try and improve leadership too –if we’re all being honest, every business can improve in the leadership department. Leadership is a practice that’s never mastered, and it’s easier to lose than to gain. However, it can always be improved when made a priority, and this is the easiest way to better your business.

Hairdressers are artists and not all artists know or understand how to run a business. Personally, I believe that if the salon owner is a hairdresser at the same time, they should employ someone to run the business for them –it is very difficult to do both and be impartial on the decision-making. But I do agree that the salon owner, especially during the hard times or quieter days, should be present in the salon every day. Dedication starts from the top.

So, when it comes to moving the business forward, the three key priorities I’d advise are focusing your energy on employed team members, educating the team, and investing in a good marketing strategy.

Elena Lavagni of Neville Hair and Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel gives her opinion…

“The number one way to generate more profit is simple: you need to get more clients into your salon and retain them.”

PHIL-ing

IN THE BL ANKS

Businessman, award-winning salon owner and creator of two top-selling haircare ranges, Phil Smith, helps to fill in any gaps in your business knowledge.

This issue… 5 ways to boost profits over the summer

The summer slowdown is here! But while you may be looking forward to enjoying some time off, you certainly don’t want your business to suffer during the holiday season. It’s not just hair salons that feel a slump during July and August –businesses across all sectors are affected as productivity dips and clients have other things on their minds. Whilst a solid business will always account for seasonal fluctuations – profit is built over 12 months, not just two –it’s still worth looking at the various ways you can make up for slower sales figures and turn up the heat on your income this summer...

ADD VALUE, DON’T CUT PRICES

If you’re hoping that a discount might draw in extra clients, STOP right there! Cutting your prices during a sales dip is the most disastrous thing you can do. Instead, look at ways you can add value by offering a little extra. This could be an adjustment to the usual service or encouraging clients to upgrade their bookings with a pre or post-holiday treatment.

THINK SEASONAL

Customer mindset is something that all great marketeers tap into. Where is your customer’s head at during summer? Whether it’s protecting their colour, reviving sun-damaged hair or looking great for their holiday, take the opportunity to swoop in and offer exactly what they need at exactly the right time. If you have a database (you should), now’s the time to nudge your mailing list with tips and ideas for getting their hair summer ready –always add a ‘call to action’ to make sure they can book an appointment straightaway without any hassle.

SELL, SELL, SELL

1 4 5 3 2

Incentivise your staff to sell more during the summer months. While the old ‘going anywhere nice this year’ conversation may be the biggest cliché, it is a genuine opportunity to sell extra products specifically for the holiday season. If you don’t already stock travel-sized products, get them ordered and make sure your team knows everything there is to know about UV heat protection products and nourishing treatments for sun-damaged hair.

MARKET A SUMMER MENU

Tweak your service menu to reflect the summer mood. Some clients will want a looser, more natural look at this time of year, so can you offer summer-specific blow-dries, for example? Clients may also be looking for less processed and lower maintenance colour techniques as they approach the summer. Appeal to them by shouting about the colour services that will give them that gorgeous glow with lower maintainence. Promote on social media for free to keep your marketing costs low.

BOOST WITH BUNDLES

Bundle treatments that offer a complete ‘summer ready’ or ‘post-holiday rehab’ package are great for business. If your salon offers beauty treatments, combine these with cut, colour and conditioning services to encourage up-selling and boost your bottom line. Or if you’re a hair-only salon, think about offering a product along with purchase. Now is the time to be creative about how you can maximise cash as much as possible, before and after the holidays.

NEED-to-KNOW

TRICHO

With the demand for information regarding hair loss and thinning hair at an all-time high, trichology has never been such hot news! In the first of our new series, Nioxin ambassador and globally recognised Nioxin trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), shares his expertise on all things stress and hair loss.

“There’s no doubt I have seen a dramatic increase in female hair loss over the last 12 months; my clinics have never been so busy with female patients concerned about the sharp increase in hair thinning and hair loss,” he says.

According to Mark, the greatest increase in hair loss and thinning has been on females around the frontal areas. The cause? In the majority of cases, it will be stress related, so it’s worth recognising the triggers.

“We really need to start talking about this more –it’s happening to more women than ever before,” says Mark.

MARK’S TRICHO TIPS FOR CLIENTS:

● Shampoo hair frequently, scalp health is directly linked to hair health. As a trichologist, I see more and more patients with hair and scalp problems because they don’t wash their hair frequently.

● Consume a well-balanced diet, this is always the first step to making sure you grow the best quality hair –you are what you eat. Hair is made up of around 85% protein, so you need to eat a plentiful supply of it –the average female needs around 45g of protein a day.

● Yoga is fantastic for hair as it can improve mental and physical health.

● Sleep well, this allows the body to rest, relax, repair and regenerate.

THE 6 DS

When it comes to stress and hair loss, watch out for Mark’s six 6 Ds.

1. Death of a loved one (this could include the loss of a pet too).

2. Divorce or a relationship problem.

3. Debt or financial problems.

4. Diagnosis of an illness/medical condition for you or a loved one.

5. Dismissal or pressure from a job.

6. Distance –moving away or moving house.

Whilst these may be the causes of the problem, what are the solutions? “The best way for your clients to help their hair is to try everything possible, no matter how small. All of these incremental changes can add up to help the bigger problem, and hair needs all the help it can get.”

● Exercise. This is a fundamental element in keeping you healthier and happier, which is a trigger for promoting hair growth.

● Hydrate. Water flushes toxins from the body and helps it to function more efficiently.

● Reduce stress. Brain chemistry is a powerful element in our body that can help or hinder hair growth.

● Sex is great for hair growth as the body releases oestrogen –this helps you relax and improves sleep.

● Scalp health. This is directly linked to hair health, so keep your scalp in good condition. You can shampoo your hair and scalp as often as you like with

good products such as Nioxin’s various system kits.

● Scalp massage. This is a great way to help keep the blood supply to your dermal papilla –this is the part of your scalp where the hair is made and helps to promote hair growth.

● Scalp exfoliation is something that is overlooked. A popular treatment right now is Nioxin’s Dermabrasion Treatment –it’s an anti-aging scalp service that helps regenerate and revitalise scalp skin through exfoliation.

COMING NEXT MONTH… Mark’s guide to Postpartum hair loss.

HAPPY LEADERS

Grace Salon Leadership was founded in 2019 by me, Polly Rose, a multi-salon owner for over 35 years! My mission is to inspire salon leaders to live their happiest lives and to lead with kindness to create a great salon culture and successful business where everybody feels they can be their best selves. I believe people do their best work by thriving in an environment that recognises, accepts and celebrates the differences within the team. Over the next few issues, I will be helping you to become a happy leader…

HAVE YOU FALLEN OUT OF LOVE WITH YOUR SALON?

I know how debilitating this can be because I’ve been there! For several years, my husband and I had been living with the stress of staff relationship issues within our salon. We had many members of staff leave early, several months after they had joined, due to –in their words –“being driven out by other staff”.

IT WAS CAUSING US A LOT OF STRESS both at work and at home, and making the salon a miserable place to work. Attempting to resolve it by having one-to-ones to try and address the issues was just not working. I was mentally drained and tired of people coming to me and saying they were leaving, not because of us, but because of the toxic environment. We started to consider selling our business.

IT MADE ME SO ANGRY

Here we were, considering walking away from our business because of someone else –a very successful business that we had worked hard on for many years! I know it was affecting other members of the team too, and they wanted us to stand up to it. I remember thinking to myself, if I die tomorrow, they’ll say “she was lovely, but not strong enough to run a salon”, I was not having that! I said to myself, I’m not going to let one individual do that –I’m taking back the control!

LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE

I started researching leadership through reading books, taking courses and listening to podcasts. I saw an Instagram post by Karren Brady, explaining that in business you would face certain challenges and that you needed to “grow a backbone”. This was a defining moment for me. I had two choices –do nothing and in two years’ time still be in the same situation, taking the same old crap, or grow a backbone and take the power back. I had been the victim for so long,

hiding away scared of the consequences. I had to take action; remaining in the same situation, hating my job, was not an option.

INSTEAD, I IMAGINED WHAT IT COULD BE LIKE,a happy salon for all, with a great culture where everyone was kind to one another.

This motivated me to make the changes I had to make. Scary as it was, I remained firm and followed through. The atmosphere in the salon changed for the better overnight and I vowed to the team we would never tolerate toxic behaviour again. As challenging and debilitating as this whole experience was for me, it was the beginning of a new leadership story, not the end. I had grown my backbone and you can too!

DOES MY STORY RESONATE WITH YOU?

Do you have a situation in your business that you are ignoring? Remember, a problem ignored will only escalate. There are many reasons why we don’t address such problems. Just like me, you may be afraid of the consequences; you may dread confrontation or think you can’t communicate effectively. But whatever the reason, it is your job as a leader to acknowledge the issue and act to resolve it.

So, ask yourself: if I do nothing, where will I be in a year’s time?

In next month’s edition, I am going to help you:

● Recognise any issues you are experiencing.

● Explore the cause and determine the steps you need to take.

● Move closer towards your dream life.

DouglasErrol

Hair Errol Douglas

Make-Up Grace Hayward

Styling Anna Latham

Photography Chris Bulezuik Products Uberliss

The Neil Moodie Studio Spring collection is a series of cuts, styles and colours to brighten up hair for the summer season; with short, choppy, textured looks to bring the fun back into shorter styles, and bolder colours to enhance the cuts to the max. Including the Textured Choppy Bob with a raw bleach blonde and a Textured Bixie with a bright copper wash, as well as some playful curls with warm honey blondes and a naturally textured ponytail with accentuated auburn tones. We also have the classic short back and sides bleached to a raw blonde to give the popular haircut a more versatile, edgier feel.

Hair Neil Moodie Studio Team: Brixton, Valentina, Eddie Make-up Mari Kuno Photography Michael Sabuni Art Direction Neil Moodie

“Our collections always add new ideas and techniques, building on looks that celebrate our heritage.They may be based on the principles of classic design, but they are always evolving, discovering new expressions in method and in attitude. Our collections underpin our look and always state: ‘This is still relevant. This is still cool!”

Mark Hayes, Sassoon International Creative Director.

Cut: Silvia Salerno Colour: Caroline Spencer

NEW MINIMALISM

Hair Sassoon Academy Make-up Shelley Blaze

Photography Ray Shekam Creative Direction Mark Hayes

Sassoon Academy

Cut: Silvia Salerno

Colour: Pink Grubb

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. TAKE

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Just in time for the heat of summer, Denman has completed its Wildcats Collection. The brand-new Deluxe Style & Shine D81M Leopard Spots pattern and DPC6 Deluxe Handle Yellow Leopard Rake Comb join the Deluxe Tangle Tamer Ultra Leopard D90L and Original Styler D3 Tiger pattern to complete the eye-catching range. Not only providing a fun pop of colour to any salon kit, the tools use Denman’s signature shapes to efficiently detangle, define and smoothen the hair. www.rdr.link/HAL023

2. SMALL BUT MIGHTY

With three essential styling products to add softness, body and shape to the hair, Original & Mineral launches its mini styling range. Including the Atonic Thickening Spritz, No Knott Detangler and Surf Bomb Sea Salt Spray, this travel-ready trio works to smoothen, thicken and texturise the hair, wherever you are.

www.rdr.link/HAL024

3. MAKING A STATEMENT

Crafted to lock in moisture and strengthen the hair, the new Hydro Shampoo and Serum from STMNT provide the final pieces to its line of care products. Complete with the premium scent of fresh citrus, lavender and tonka bean, the products soothe and balance the scalp to leave hair feeling nourished, smooth and lightweight. www.rdr.link/HAL025

4. LUST FOR LIFE

Designed for hair that’s been damaged by time, styling or over-processing, the Gold Lust collection from Oribe uses a blend of anti-aging ingredients to deeply nourish the hair and repair damage on the cuticles. Including the Repair and Restore Shampoo and Conditioner, Transformative Mask and Nourishing Hair Oil, the products restore youthfulness through penetrating the root, energising the scalp and rejuvenating the hair. www.rdr.link/HAL026

5. SUN-KISSED STYLING

Introducing the limited-edition ghdSUNSTHETIC range for Spring/Summer 23. Taking inspiration from beautiful sunsets and unique personal aesthetics, the electricals use Aeroprecis and Dual-Zone technology to deliver premium, professional performance for sleeker, smoother and healthier-looking hair.

www.rdr.link/HAL027

6. COME INTO YOUR TONE

Take control of toning with the new Tonal Control shades from Matrix. Designed with damage-conscious clients in mind, this ammonia-free, vegan, no-drip colour formula offers predictable toning for the ultimate post-lightening control.

www.rdr.link/HAL028

7. PUMP UP THE VOLUME

Once again adapting its exclusive Bond Building Technology, Olaplex has launched a Volumizing Blow Dry Mist. With a blend of hero ingredients, this reparative blow-dry volumiser protects the hair from damage whilst you style, adding hold without the stickiness. Using jackfruit polysaccharides and pea peptides, the mist offers faster, healthier-looking blowouts with lasting body and bounce.

www.rdr.link/HAL029

8. R-TWO THE RESCUE

On hand to provide a fast, simple and reliable emergency service for badly damaged hair, Schwarzkopf Professional launches new Bonacure R-TWO. Powered by its new transformative Double Bonding Technology, the range of vegan and free-from hair products work to reinforce the inner matrix of the hair fibre for instant, long-lasting results.

www.rdr.link/HAL030

9. VIOLET VICTORS

Introducing three cool shade extensions to Joico’s LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid palette –Blue Violet, Platinum Violet and Violet Gold. Unlocking a brilliant spectrum of cool blonde tones, the new violet-based hues expand toning options with the signature LumiShine luminosity, performance, and healthy-looking results.

www.rdr.link/HAL031

a show of

STRENGTH

The DUALSENSES Bond Pro range from GOLDWELL is an intensive, professional regime that provides instant strength and resilience for weak, fragile hair that is prone to breakage.

Think of it as an emergency service to help clients with frail and fragile hair achieve healthier, stronger and more resilient hair without weighing it down.

The line offers a full range of technologically advanced hair formulas –suitable for all hair types prone to breakage –that will instantly reinforce and restructure the hair from roots to ends, thanks to an innovative Inter-Amino-Bond Builder that fortifies the hair from the inside out.

How does it work? Peptides and amino acids penetrate into the hair cortex, targeting the damaged areas. Compounds of red and brown algae extracts form ionic and hydrogen bonds, embedding these peptides in the inner cortex to make the hair fibre stronger and more resilient.

Meanwhile, Goldwell’s proprietary MicroPROtec Complex distributes all of the essential ingredients quickly and evenly for results that are instantly visible.

■ Fortifying Shampoo –instantly delivers structure and care for weak, fragile hair while its Goldwell exclusive FadeStopFormula minimises colour fading with every use.

■ Fortifying Conditioner –immediately creates stronger hair with visibly less breakage, while protecting against further mechanical damage when combing or brushing.

■ 60Sec Treatment –instantly strengthens hair fibre by up to 100% in 60 seconds, preventing breakage and split ends, and sealing the cuticle for smoothness, combability and protection. All without weighing down the hair.

■ Repair & Structure Spray –smooths the hair’s surface and preps it for styling while providing long-lasting cuticle protection and resilience against day-to-day stressors, even on fine, fragile hair.

■ Day & Night Bond Booster –instantly reduces breakage and split ends by up to 99% while imparting long-term strength and stability to each individual hair strand. This specific formula supports the Bond Protein network and provides the ultimate strengthening benefits with the highest concentration of the Inter-Amino-Bond-Builder in the range.

www.rdr.link/HAL032

For more information visit: www.rdr.link/HAL033

To be in with a chance of winning a full set of DualsensesGoldwell’s Bond Pro collection click here

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER AND GROOMER LUKE

BENSON SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US – YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensonhair

FLAIR TOOLS

Flair is an Australian brand, and this shoot is for a campaign aimed at the younger market in Australia. The brief and concept were perfect and I think the end result works brilliantly too.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

TOM GRENNAN SUMMERTIME BALL/UNICEF SOCCER AID

This was a mad week for Tom! his new album launched so we wanted to freshen his colour up and give him a trim –it made sense to tie it in with him opening the Capital Radio Summertime Ball and then performing later that afternoon at Soccer Aid. A low fade embracing his curls and some scattered lights to enhance his natural texture and he was good to go!

I always love working with Martin –the nicest man in the industry! This is a secret collaboration for now, but I can’t wait for it to come out and recieve the recognition it deserves.

KEUNE/AMSTERDAM SHOOT

I had an exciting trip to Amsterdam to the Keune HQ for my first induction since signing my global role. We went through the heritage of the brand, and met with Eelco the CEO and Joanne the Global Head of Education to discuss future plans. I also did some content shoots that can be fed out across the rest of the year. I’m heading back in August to do some more shoots, so keep your eyes peeled for that in the September issue.

MARTIN KEMP

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

CHOP CHOP CAMDEN

Introducing the fourth salon from Chop Chop founder, Kaye Sotomi. His goal is simple: To deliver an exceptional, efficient and inclusive service that respects the planet by minimising waste. No gender, no texture, just hair.

How did you decide on the style of your salon interior?

The style of the salon was brought together with sustainability, practicality and style in mind. We wanted to use recycled materials whilst still maintaining a premium and sexy aesthetic, as well as ensuring the space was somewhere clients could feel comfortable and relaxed.

Where did you find the inspiration for your design?

Meticulously designed with minimalism in mind, the inspiration behind Chop Chop Camden was true to our sustainable ethos and consistent brand identity –but we didn’t stop there. We’ve taken our digital approach to new heights through introducing self-servicing kiosks that allow customers to explore, book, and check-in for services independently.

Did you use an interior designer?

Yes. To help us maximise the space, we used First Sukpaiboon from Spacelab, an exploratory architectural design company.

Describe the vibe created by your interior.

Cool, sexy, comfortable and intimate. As a smaller salon, it was really important to get the ambiance right – making sure it felt intimate instead of cramped. All of the interior choices were based around space utilisation and comfort, whilst the brand colours keep it feeling premium and classy.

What do you hope are your clients’ first impressions when they walk in?

Since Camden has been on our radar for quite some time, we hope the client’s first thought is that the location is a perfect match for our audacious spirit. When they step into Chop Chop Camden Lock Market, we hope clients see our seamless blend into the lock’s timeless aesthetic, whilst still standing out in all our edgy glory. We want our clients to feel a harmonious fusion of history and innovation.

Tell us what are the key elements of your salon design?

The key elements of Chop Chop Camden’s design are centred around space utilisation. With 3 units, an adaptable backwash chair and an open-plan colour area, kitchen and salon in one unit, it’s a salon like no other. Traditional Chop Chop green on one wall, complemented by Natural Mineral lime paint on the other ensures you have no doubt you’re in Chop Chop. Meanwhile, a

How have you embraced sustainability within the design?

Sustainability is at the heart of our design and our purpose. It comes through in various focal points within the salon and our services –from recycled breathable cork flooring to recycled plastic worktops and wooden frames on the mirrors.

What salon software do you use and what feature of it do you find most useful?

Zenotti – we use their software across all of our salons. In particular for this occasion, its most useful feature is that it supports our digitalisation with the ability to allow customers to book online or via the digital screen outside. It also allows customers to check themselves in on arrival, meaning they are in complete control of their appointment from start to finish.

Did your product brand/colour house influence your style of interior design?

Absolutely! The Chop Chop green is featured throughout the salon on the interior walls, it’s a staple part of being able to identify the brand and feel at home in any of our salons.

What salon furniture have you chosen and why?

We chose Maletti in the salon for two reasons: one, its a brand we trust for providing client comfort and two, it works the best in terms of not being too bulky and maximising the space, this was crucial for us.

Do you have a dress code/uniform for your team?

No, we encourage a smart casual style but allow the team to dress freely and be themselves, it’s important to show off their individuality and style.

“This is me,living my best life on a yacht on holiday.I chose this image as I love being by the sea.I feel relaxed and at peace –it’s my happy place.”

5minutes with CHRISTOPHER LAIRD

Co-Owner of the November Collective, Livingston, Christopher Laird talks the sea, celebrities and ceasar salad.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU.

I get up at about 5am, go to the gym for a couple of hours and get myself ready for the day. I like to go into the salon before anyone else is there, to get things sorted. After a mixture of clients and meetings, I normally finish my day at around 7pm. I like to do something after work to achieve that work/life balance –this can be anything from going back to the gym, catching up with a friend or just chilling!

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

It’s not very often, but I love

a day that is unplanned. I think I’m very conscious of not having much time, so my new attitude is to really try and make the most of my downtime by doing things that are good for me. I am mindful of filling my time by doing things that make my soul happy.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION?

It has to be the new Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS campaign, which I worked on recently. The aim was to create a gender neutral, inclusive collection to reflect the brand, but without stereotyping or labelling people with certain looks. It is

a celebration of people’s natural characteristics – of what makes them feel powerful and unique. I just wanted the looks to flow naturally. Tom, one of our models, features in the collection both as a boy and as Tamara, a fierce hot drag queen – I wanted to show both sides of his beauty and celebrate them equally.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT AND WHY?

I am very much a shoe person. From a pair of Jordans, to UGGs, to dress shoes –they just complete any outfit. My go-to right now are Cleens trainers.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS? My standout moment would

something really special that we are so proud of. It’s our dream salon and will always be my baby. Second to this, in February this year, ghd invited me to work in the nominee style suites for the EE BAFTA Film Awards at the Savoy Hotel. I got to prep some of the biggest stars ready for the red carpet, as well as pre-stage touch-ups for the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Geri Halliwell and Cate Blanchett –definitely a career defining moment for me!

quick fire favourites

1 2 3

TO VISIT: DUBAI OR IBIZA. I GET OFF THE PLANE AND FEEL INSTANT HAPPINESS.

TO LISTEN: MY FAVOURITE PODCAST IS NEARLYWEDS –JAMIE LAING AND SOPHIE HABBOO MAKE ME LAUGH SO MUCH.

TO WATCH: ANYTHING WITH JESSICA CHASTAIN, I ADORE THAT WOMAN!

TO READ: SARAH KNIGHT’S THE LIFE-CHANGING MAGIC OF NOT GIVING A F*UCK.

TO EAT: CAESAR SALAD –I ORDER IT ALL THE TIME 5 4

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are also interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of Pro Hair. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information.

BaByliss PRO................................................................(pages 4,5) www.rdr.link/HAL100

Alan Howard................................................................(pages 10,11) www.rdr.link/HAL101

Denman Int. Ltd....................................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAL102

Great Lengths Dist.................................................(pages 42,43) www.rdr.link/HAL103

HOB Salons Ltd....................................................(page 2/IFC ,3) www.rdr.link/HAL104

ASP....................................................................................(page 30) www.rdr.link/HAL105

KPSS (UK) Ltd....................................................................(page 8) www.rdr.link/HAL106

KPSS (UK) Ltd..........................................................(pages 28,29) www.rdr.link/HAL107

Wella Professionals (UK) Ltd........................................(page 14) www.rdr.link/HAL108