Professional Hairdresser October 2020

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OCTOBER 2020

Professional OCTOBER 2020

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WE THREE QUEENS OF GHD ARE, BEARING GIFTS TO SALONS AFAR, FASHION LEADING, SO APPEALING, FOLLOWING YONDER STARS… Reach for the stars this Christmas with ghd’s Wish Upon A Star collection inspired by constellations, featuring Limited Edition Gift Sets in iridescent whites and deep, luxurious midnight blues.

ghd DELUXE GIFT SET

ghd PLATINUM+ STYLER GIFT SET

Features the iconic ghd platinum+ SMART styler and the new ghd helios™ professional hairdryer, both dusted with a luxurious white finish and satin gold accent details, with luxury vanity case.

Features ultra-zone with predictive technology that monitors heat 250x a second, sensing your personal hair needs, the ghd platinum+ styler comes in a luxurious iridescent white with a satin finish gold wishbone, and is stored in a luxury vanity case.

ghd HELIOS PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRYER

ghd GOLD® STYLER GIFT SET

The gift of a salon blow-dry in your hands. The new ghd helios™ professional hairdryer with luxury dust bag comes in stylish white with satin gold accents, offers 30% more shine* and drastically faster styling.

The iconic ghd gold® styler, stored in a luxury vanity case, features dual-zone technology for premium performance, a modernised design for smooth, snag-free styling, and delivers ultimate results.

ghd STYLE GIFT SET

Featuring a full-size ghd heat protect spray and two sparkling star clips in a midnight blue cosmetic case, the ghd style gift set is the stocking filler that every girl needs!

*vs. naturally dried hair.

ghd platinum+ with paddle brush & heat-resistant bag ghd gold® with paddle brush & heat-resistant bag ghd curve® creative curl wand with oval dressing brush & heat mat ghd glide with heat-resistant bag ghd flight travel dryer with protective case

As well as gorgeous limited editions, choose from our core Christmas Gift Sets with added ghd accessories to create covetable curls, wondrous waves or sumptuously straight hair.

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O C TO BER 2 0 2 0

ISSUE 0 7

Climate, Colour and Care OCTOBER 2020

FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag

Editor

With concerns around climate change and other environmental implications, a rapidly growing number of clients are now considering and opting for sustainable hair colour. Introducing a sustainable colour offering will bring clients through your door and could help your salon to thrive. As salon owners and colourists you want to leave a lasting impact on these clients but not on the planet! Whether the eco-consciousness is driven by you, your clients, or both, now is the time to introduce this service if you haven’t already. For help, turn to page 19 for some sustainable colour business advice followed by The Eco Colour Edit – a directory of caring colour brands.

The latest NHBF ‘State of Trade’ survey was developed to get a clear picture of where the hair and beauty industry is post-lockdown and how owners see how their businesses are operating in the immediate future and longer term and it makes for fairly sober reading.

The NHBF has been putting continued pressure on governments in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland about the kind of support the hair and beauty industry needs in order to survive and thrive now and into 2021. Using this data, they intend to inform and influence the government to develop policies and initiatives that will enable the sector to continue to be the important part of the community and backbone of the high street that it has come to be over the decades. If you want to read the whole report it’s on our website. www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk

COVER: ghd PHOTOGRAPHY: Claire Rothstein

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk Designer Donna Booth

REGULARS

FASHION

BUSINESS

10 NEWS Industry goings on

36 ON TREND

59 60 62 66

COLLECTIONS

12 HOOKER & YOUNG With Andrew & Liz Collinge

Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager

SUSTAINABLE COLOUR 19 COLOUR BUSINESS With Debbie Digby 20 The Eco Colour Edit

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

MENS 50 NEWS & PRODUCTS 51 #MENSHAIR

Group Production Manager

52 COMMENT With Tony Haresign 53 BLOCK ROCKIN COLLECTION With Tony Haresign

PEOPLE 28 INTERVIEW With Pauline McCabe

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901

JOE MILLS CAROLINE SANDERSON BAD APPLE SALON PROFILE With Mark David

PRODUCTS 68 STEP BY STEP With ghd 71 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With Fast Colour 72 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT With Kemon 73 WHATS NEW 74 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT With Keratin Complex

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid.

To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2020 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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July 19 - June 20

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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

HAIRDO’S FOR HEROES Great Lengths salons give back to frontline workers.

In a huge two day event, Great Lengths salons across the country opened their doors to key workers who have worked tirelessly through the Coronavirus pandemic.

Over 60 salons nationwide dedicated their time to give back to the heroes in their region, offering free cuts, blow-dries and a well-deserved pamper session.

Although the hairdressing industry was hard hit, with our doors closed for months, the celebration was a time to reflect and thank the people that really did keep things moving for us all and helped to keep us safe. Each salon dedicated their time despite working non-stop over the summer

after the lost lockdown months and each frontline worker was delighted with their free pamper and walked away feeling refreshed, valued and special, which is exactly what everyone involved wanted!

Having gladly taken part in the event, Jennifer Swain of Swain Hairdressing in Cumbria said: “We were first asked to get involved with Hairdos For Heroes during lockdown, at a time when there was still so much uncertainty and we really weren’t sure when we would get back to work. We were all so thankful for the key workers working so hard through the pandemic and knew we wanted to say a big thank you and this was the perfect way to do so. All the women that came on the day for Hairdos For Heroes were amazing and it was great to be able to treat them.”

TAKE CONTROL NOW TOUCH THEM, SQUEEZE THEM, CHECK THEM, WITH GHD.

Marking 16 years of supporting breast cancer charities globally, this year’s ghd Pink charity collection is reminding women to Take Control Now – to give your boobs some TLC by checking them thoroughly and often.

Each year 120,000 women under the age of 35 are diagnosed with breast cancer – but 90% of 18-35 year old women check their boobs only a few times a year or less.

Central to ghd’s 2020 pink campaign is the message of normalising looking at your

10 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

boobs every month - and what better way to spread the word to the women of London than with a statement window in at ghd’s Dean Street Studio in Soho full of them?

Representing different shapes, sizes and ethnicities, the inspiration came out of a desire to bring the message of encouraging self-checks through “touch them, squeeze them, check them” to life in a visually impactful way. The scale of the window takeover draws attention to the extent that Breast Cancer can affect anyone, whilst creating an unexpected display for an otherwise very personal and sensitive topic.

Global Chief Marketing Officer at ghd, Montse Passolas, says: “Our studio is in the heart of London, and we want our windows to make a statement – whether that’s giving

the world a glimpse at stylists latest technique-led education or showcasing our latest new product launch. Like every year, our windows have a dedicated period to display the most important message we could share, our new campaign “give some mirror time to your boobs”. We hope that by sharing this message in our Soho window we will remind everyone passing by to Take Control Now and check their boobs regularly.”

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The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar Art Team now has two new members.

Congratulation s to Lizzie Williams from Gatsby & Miller and Josie Simmons from Electric Hairdressing on making the cut!

Sweet Squared has appointed Pete Burkill as Creative Ambassador across SACHAJUAN and Alter Ego Italy.

SURVEY RESULTS PAINT A BLEAK PICTURE, BUT THE NHBF WILL USE THIS TO PETITION THE GOVERNMENT FOR MORE HELP. The National Hair & Beauty Federation has revealed the results of the recent State of Industry survey, conducted across UK hair and beauty salons and barbershops. These results are now being used to put pressure on the government to support the industry to avoid a significant loss of jobs and closure of businesses that currently contribute over £7.5bn in turnover for the UK economy.

The survey, which was undertaken between 20-31 August received 2,018 responses. The widely held view of those within the sector is that government is dismissive of the hair and beauty industry, does not understand it or those working within it, and underestimates the sector’s value with one in four stating ‘I don’t feel [the government] understand our industry at all’.

Despite re-opening at the beginning of July three in four salons and barbershops reported that business was down compared to the same period last year. Two thirds expected business to remain slow based on their forthcoming bookings for the next

three months with 35% genuinely worried about how little business they have coming up. Of most concern from the results was that 41% could not say if their business would survive until Christmas.

Hilary Hall, NHBF chief executive said, “Whilst the survey results paint a bleak picture this does not have to be the case.

The recovery of the hair and beauty sector is dependent on additional help from the government. We continue to campaign hard, calling on the government to provide extra support as they have for hospitality.

We expect them to consider additional measures such as hardship grants, VAT reductions, further extensions to business rate reliefs, restraint on proposed wage increases and other measures for sectors like ours that can only offer greatly reduced services, putting the longer-term survival of businesses and thousands of jobs at risk.”

Read the survey in full on our website, and let us know what you think on our social media channels.

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CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT037

HOOKER AND YOUNG

Andrew and Liz Collinge Andrew Collinge, a true hairdressing legend who together with his wonderful wife Liz, has helped change the way hairdressing is viewed by the public. With a career spanning many decades and showing no signs of stopping we jumped at the chance to sit down for a bit of lunch with the very lovely Andrew and Liz Collinge.

Michael: So, tell us a bit about where it all began for you – you’re from a long line of hairdressers, I know.

Andrew: My father was Peter Collinge; a successful competition hairdresser and a very big part of the industry at the time – he was one of the founder members of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Before that, there was my grandfather Wilfred who started hairdressing in 1910. He worked on boats servicing what was then called the Gold Coast of Africa, looking after the plantation workers. Boats took out mail and workers every six weeks and when they dropped anchor, people would come to the salon on board and see him for a haircut. When the war came, he lost his job as the ship was seconded by the Royal Navy. He still had a young family to support and the only thing he knew how to do was barbering, so he opened a shop in Liverpool – Collinge’s.

It was quite remarkable because the war was starting and obviously as a city with dockyards, Liverpool was very badly hit, but they opened on the outskirts and have remained open ever since. My grandmother wasn’t a hairdresser but my dad, who was about 14 at the time, got a job as an apprentice at Frank Simmons salon in Liverpool through my grandfather’s contacts. In those days you had to pay to be an apprentice, and he trained in ladies

hairdressing. When the war was coming to an end, he was about 17 and joined a ship himself. It was a Cunard flagship transatlantic liner that was initially used to take the troops home to Australia and Canada, and he looked after all the nurses with countless shampoos and sets. After the war, the boat was returned to its former glory and sailed between Liverpool and New York. He spent three years going back and forth doing hair – Liz Taylor was even a client when she was on her honeymoon!

After that, my dad started doing competition hair and doing demonstration work for Wella, showcasing perms. He got so much publicity that he decided to open his own salon separate from the established Collinge’s barber business. He opened Peter Collinge in the mid 1950s and that’s when the business started.

Michael: Did your father want you go into hairdressing?

Andrew: I don’t think so. Hairdressing was always being discussed around the kitchen table and I used to shampoo hair in the holidays and help out a bit, which I quite liked – but I wasn’t particularly interested. To be honest, I didn’t do very well at school – had I done well, I might have taken a completely different path.

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PEOPLE

Liz: They sent you away to school, so I don’t think they particularly encouraged you into the business!

Andrew: I left school in 1976 without great results and went to college to do a business course, which I didn’t really enjoy. At the time, dad was President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and judged all of the big hairdressing competitions. The World Championships were taking place in New York and in his absence, he put me to work in the Wirral salon. I just loved the creativity and by the time dad had come back from his travels, I decided it was what I wanted to do and signed up for an apprenticeship – and that was that! I’ve always said it’s in the blood, but it definitely wasn’t forced on me.

Andrew: Perhaps a little bit. But those connections do help, because around that time my parents were at the finals of the Wella Vogue competition where Michael Rasser and John Isaacs were judging. My mum told Michael that I was keen to move in another direction and he invited me to go along to the salon and finish my apprenticeship at michaeljohn.

Liz: They sent you away to school, they sent you away to London… they just wanted to get rid of you!

Andrew: I spent about two years at the salon, and it was buzzing. My dad had started the Peter Collinge Training School and there were lots of courses and things going on – we went to the first Salon International and did demonstrations and sold courses. So that’s how I grew up, but I realised after a while that it’s quite difficult to join a business that’s established already. There were managers and directors already and they didn’t take too kindly to me…

Andrew: I assisted Michael a lot at the time. He was the master of dressing long hair, which helped me to really fall in love with it too. Robert Lobetta was there at the time and was doing all of his woven hairstyles, so working with him was great too. It took about four years until I made it to the salon floor, but I’d been assisting Robert and learned so much in that time.

In 1980 he left the salon, but the michaeljohn team had been booked to do a show in Dusseldorf for Wella. Myself and a couple of other guys knew his techniques from working so closely with him, so were quite quickly promoted to do the show and it drew huge crowds – all of this basketweave hair. Off the back of that, I got booked to do a lot of Wella shows myself, which continued for about a decade.

Gary: Did you find they were hostile because you were one of the family?

Gary: So that was a bit of a lucky break then?

Gary: How did your apprenticeship go?

Andrew: It really was.

Gary: At what point did you get involved, Liz? Liz: We both moved to London in 1976 – Andrew to michaeljohn and me to become a dispensing optician. Quite by chance, we were both staying in a civil servant’s hostel – the odds of us both being there, when neither of us were civil servants!

Michael: And how long have you been together now?

Liz: Next year will be our 40th wedding anniversary, so about 44 years! Anyway, we got chatting – I remember our first conversation was in the laundry room, showing him how to use the washing machine, but he denies all knowledge of that!

Michael: So, your eyes met over the washing machine?!

Liz: He needed someone’s hair to style for a show I think and probably said how nice my hair was – but he wasn’t prepared for how thick it was! Three hours later… he’d cut the perfect pageboy and we’d got to know each other quite well during that time!

Michael: At what point did you open the first Andrew Collinge salon?

Liz: In 1985. By that point, Andrew had come back – with me – to join the family business in Liverpool. He’d brought lots of ideas back from London, things he wanted to put into practice. His dad could see they were good ideas but being a very wise man, he recognised that if the younger son just came in and changed everything, it wasn’t going to go down very well. He suggested Andrew opened his own salon – not completely separate from the group, but with his name over the door.

Andrew: It was a bit different too – we were doing things like foil highlights and longer appointments, not just the shampoos and sets that were still happening at dad’s salon. Although in fairness, he has always been very ahead of his time. He opened a salon in 1972 called Thatcher’s – not the best name for

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a salon in Liverpool, although it was long before Margaret Thatcher! He realised early on that cuts and blow-dries were big business and opened Thatcher’s for the younger staff to work in. It was an overnight success and people queued in the street; lots of loud music and jeans, everything we weren’t at the original Peter Collinge. He also opened the training centre, and we were pioneers for YTS. My mother started it and my sister Sarah took over as director. My dad realised there was a moment after you’d qualified where one minute, you’re in the salon as an assistant and then you’ve got to be a junior stylist. Someone he knew from the competition circuit was retiring and said look, I’ve got this little salon and I want you to have it. We had six or seven salons at that point, so he decided to use it for the graduates. It’s almost a holding salon where they work under supervision, then when an opportunity arises to go to into the salon, they move on with more confidence and experience. The graduate salon is still really the backbone of our education and careers.

Liz: They can stay there longer if they want to. It helps them build confidence.

Andrew: It’s been going since the 80s – we’ve actually got two graduate salons now – and we’re a training provider for

other salons in the area too. So, you’ve got a mix of our graduates, those from other businesses… it’s got a younger vibe, lots of students go there. We find clients come to a Collinge salon for generations.

They might have been dad’s clients back in the 60s, and now they’re in our training school getting their perm done. And they come to me and say Andrew, that one’s going to be good! I know it’s coming back to dad again, but it was a great concept and continues to be.

Liz: It all has to change again now because the high street is changing, and the client is very much looking for the experience.

Liz: Peter has always been very wise. He knew that to implement new ideas, you have to start again with new names and new branding. He really helped us a lot with the new salon, but he let us do it our way too.

Liz: It is hard.

Andrew: Liverpool in the mid 80s was pretty desperate. The city was in deep recession, the ports had closed down – and then out of the blue, This Morning TV appeared in the Albert Dock area, which was being regenerated. We were chosen by the researchers to do the makeover sections on the show, thanks in part to winning the regional category at the British Hairdressing Awards for three years in a row – ‘84, ‘85 and ‘86. The researchers asked if I could recommend a makeup artist and I said it’s funny you should ask… because Liz had trained as a makeup artist by that point, so it was perfect. After the first show, they had 5,000 letters requesting makeovers – and we ended up doing it for ten years.

Liz: It’s a community.

Michael: That’s incredible. Ten years!

Gary: Didn’t you have a stint in Harrods too?

Andrew: Liz ended up doing makeup one day, I did hair another, then on Friday we came together and did the makeover.

Gary: It must have been a total gamechanger – what did it do for the business?

Gary: It’s completely different now. We’ve had a salon for 35 years in a hotel – the smallest salon we’ve got, but it’s the golden egg and we have just made the decision to leave it because the hotel was on its last legs. It’s hard to leave but it’s the right decision.

Andrew: It’s hard but our clients are incredibly loyal. It’s a family business and I see the whole company as family – we have two generations working for us.

Andew: When business and the economy is challenging, it forces you to make decisions. We’ve been pleasantly surprised that most of the staff in the salons that we brought together came with us, and the clients have come too.

Liz: We’ve still had something new to offer them, which is key. We closed in Manchester city centre and relocated to Selfridges, which is a beautiful new salon. We were able to offer a lovely alternative which was exciting and new, so they’ve enjoyed coming across, I think. It’s not just coming to our salon, but the whole experience of being in Selfridge’s too – it’s a day out.

Andrew: When This Morning moved to London, we went for a while. It wasn’t quite as viable though – we used to do This Morning and then be back in the salon doing clients. We did about a year in London.

Liz: It must have helped!

Andew: It gave us more high-profile salons I’d say. It gave us more prime locations – and we’re finding that’s a key thing at the moment actually, because we’re restructuring at the moment and have closed a salon recently that’s at the end of its lease. Business is all about having a strategy in place for the next 10-20 years.

Liz: The thinking behind Harrods was to wrap up our time on This Morning.

Andrew: We did about seven years at Harrods and we were doing makeovers.

They were a big thing at the time. Without a doubt, Liz is so much more than a makeup artist. People would come in for an appointment and pay £400 – they got a glass of champagne, or maybe two! – and have a half-day makeover.

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PEOPLE

Gary: It was escapism for people?

Liz: Sort of, but it was also about people wanting a real change, not just a new look. There was always a story and a real desire to reinvent themselves. The whole makeover time helped me realise that hair and beauty wasn’t superficial; it impacted people on the inside and helped with their self-esteem.

Michael: I completely agree with you and that’s the power of our industry. We can do such great things for people and help their self-esteem. I do think it’s got a bit lost now and people don’t realise what they can do and how powerful it is.

Liz: There’s a bit of an emphasis on quick fixes now, but we want to keep that power in our minds and think about how we can still do it. A thing we want to promote, whether that’s in training or with clients or employees, is individuality. Not following a trend but being unafraid of what you want to look like. It’s a thing that we think is really core for our business.

Gary: Are you still involved in running the business still or taking a back seat?

Liz: I have a full-time job, which is more HR than creative.

Michael: And that’s a minefield!

Gary: Is there any one thing that you feel has contributed more than others to the success of your brand? I.e television work, winning British Hairdresser of the Year, launching products?

Andrew: I think it’s very much a combination of all these things. I was also very lucky to have the heritage of an established family business behind me and I also learnt from fantastic role models. I don’t think there is any substitute for hard work early on in one’s career though, and also rising to any challenge or opportunity that is offered. I do think that the exposure of This Morning contributed a lot to the popularity of the brand, but you have to keep working on it.

Michael: How do you feel about the industry at large now? It’s clearly changed a lot in recent years.

Andrew: It’s still the same exciting industry and luckily one that is not overly affected by the internet. Although the demise of the high street, mainly as a result of online retailing, is challenging as it affects footfall for all of us. But social media has raised the public’s awareness of the hair and beauty industry – which is both positive and negative. People get a lot of inspiration from social media, but we do have to manage expectations – it can often give the impression that it’s easier to change your hair colour than it really is!

We have to ensure that there is an understanding of the process and the effect on the hair. In other words, more than ever, we must promote our professionalism.

Another challenge is ensuring we have enough young people coming into hairdressing. With the rise of freelance hairdressing there are fewer apprentices being employed, and those that do employ are finding it tougher through rising costs.

There are positive changes in hairdressing training though, that can only be for the long-term good – although the government has recently cut funding which is a real blow during a time when training providers are in the process of adapting and delivering the new higher standards.

Gary: What is the future for the Andrew Collinge brand?

Liz: We aim to continue to develop the brand to provide a better experience for our clients. This includes a soon-to-be-launched new hair care range, and we also continue to make sure we

offer a good working experience for our apprentices and all our employees. The launch of our Wellbeing Club is an exciting new development for us, offering sessions like mindfulness and nutrition, as well as our first family day. That was a great success and a fantastic opportunity to meet up with our families and friends and engage in a variety of sports, music and dancing.

Gary: What’s important to you now?

Liz: Quality and not quantity and feeling proud of what we do.

Gary: Has your perspective changed?

Andrew: Yes – with age and experience I am more focused on the team and happy to encourage and mentor rather than take centre stage.

It seems inevitable that Andrew was always going to follow in his Father’s footsteps although maybe not so obvious at the time. Sometimes things are just meant to be, and hairdressing is a better place for having Andrew in it. His journey in hair is one of hard work, reinvention and ceasing opportunities that helped carve out a brand that is synonymous with style and luxury yet a brand for everyone. Andrew and Liz are a true powerhouse couple who have clearly shared the same aspirations and goals and in doing have created a truly wonderful brand that will be around for generations to come.

We salute you Andrew Collinge.

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COLOUR BUSINESS

Having a Sustainable Salon Strategy will increase client numbers, says Passion4Hair’s Debbie Digby.

NATURAL SELECTION The last few months have had our industry focused on Covid-19 measures and business survival. It can seem at times that most other issues have paled in insignificance, especially business strategies that do not show an immediate return on investment for profit or exposure for the business.

However, rest assured, our nature loving, environment protecting, vegan/flexitarian clients have not gone away. If anything, the events of the last few months have heightened awareness of sustainable issues and the desire to source ethical products and services.

BUSINESS STRATEGY Whether you choose a complete sustainable strategy for your business or provide a sustainable brand option for those clients who will not compromise their values, not even for the sake of beauty, there has never been a better time to meet the demand of the market. Matt Rowden, Co-founder of GM’s in East Dulwich and Crystal Palace, advertises their Sensus PPD and Ammonia free vegan colour services with a beautiful window display of plants and jars containing the raw natural ingredients used in the colour formulation. Matt reports on average 12 new colour appointments per week from clients attracted by their vegan offering.

Inspired by Matts example, Naomi Rowe of Hair Craze in Caerphilly used her windows to advertise vegan hair colour. The very next day a gentleman looking for natural solutions walked into the salon to enquire about colour services for his wife who is undergoing cancer treatment. Naomi has since had countless new clients and a welcome upturn in her colour business.

Naomi said, “it’s not the first time we have used our windows to advertise services, but this window display has surprised us with the number of enquiries from new clients.”

SUSTAINABLE STRATEGY MUST HAVES Here, some important information to consider when developing a sustainability strategy:

ETHICS – Sustainability starts with complete respect for people, the planet and its wildlife.

For example, one of our brands, Sensus draws water from the Tiber river in its production processes, thanks to innovative demineralisation processes using reverse osmosis, the destruction of bacteria using UV rays takes place. The water is then microbiologically purified before it is returned to the river after use. The water quality in the area has improved so much that fisherman have reported bigger fish in the last few years.

ECO-FRIENDLY – Choose companies whose practices minimise environmental damage wherever possible. This may include using natural solar or wind energy for production processes. Ensure natural raw ingredients used are renewed for the benefit of future generations.

SAFETY – When formulas include natural ingredients like essential oils or plant extracts, look for quality assurances. For example, pharmaceutical grade ingredients are licensed for medications and are therefore safe for topical use in cosmetics. Food grade ingredients are safe to ingest, so again are safe for topical use. When consumers are seeking vegan products, it is often because they consider vegan formulations to be natural and therefore safer. This expectation leads to a demand for formulations without ingredients like PPD’s, sulfates and parabens.

FOOTPRINT – One way to reduce your salon carbon footprint is to commit to zero waste.

Find ways to recycle, upcycle or repurpose your waste. Your hair colour is packaged in a cardboard box and aluminium tube. Your local authority will likely have a recycling program for cardboard, but you may have to do a little more research for your aluminium waste, which can also include your foils. A group of independent salons in Essex, are working together (led by Ken Eastwood and Norman Ellis) to recycle aluminium foil and tubes. Since October 2018 they have been taking their colour tubes and used foil to a local aluminium recycling plant. So far, they have collectively raised over £1000 which has been donated to The Hairdressers Charity. A fabulous collective encouraging and allowing many salons to take part and achieve sustainable goals.

TRANSPARENCY – It is important that claims can be corroborated and are easily demonstrated. Look for symbols like Eco Cert which verify a sustainable practice has been followed. Your clients will want to know more about your ‘sustainable story’ – it is imperative you and your team can tell the story well.

A sustainability strategy well executed will enhance the feel-good factor of your team and clients. It will add value to your brand and align you to your sustainability conscious community.

Most importantly, it will serve to make a positive difference to the world.

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Growth in the sustainable, organic and natural hair and beauty market is at an all time high as clients seek colour and care products that deliver on trust, integrity and sustainability. This rise in conscious consumerism is something we should all consider, so we’ve put together a directory of sustainable and environmentally-friendly colour brands for you to think about adding to your salon offering.

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL The tbh – true beautiful honest colour portfolio from Schwarzkopf Professional respects and illuminates the hair´s natural highs and lows providing natural-looking results with up to 100% multi-dimensional coverage. tbh – true beautiful honest is bespoke to the individual and provides natural shine with a healthy-looking glow compared to the glossy shine of traditional permanent colour.

The colour is formulated with up to 92% naturally derived ingredients, complemented by additional performance drivers. It includes Argan Oil to enhance hair’s softness and leave a light shine, Macadamia Oil which is known for its caring properties, and Shea Butter which is rich in fatty acids to improve hair’s softness and manageability. www.rdr.link/HT001

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COLOUR

A.S.P A.S.P Kitoko Botanical Colour is perfect for fragile or damaged hair as well as first-time colour clients and those with ingredient sensitivities. It leaves the hair feeling stronger, fuller and healthier looking with an incredible shine and vibrancy.

There are 12 shades available in A.S.P Kitoko Botanical Colour, all based on seven natural dyes that have a purified and preservative-free formulation. These seven natural dyes include Henna, Cassia, Indigo, Walnut Husk, Blockwood Tree, Turmeric and Rhubarb.

The deposit-only colour mixes with water for beautiful, damage-free results that last up to 20 washes. All shades are 87-100% organic, plant-based and ammonia free. www.rdr.link/HT002

EVA PROFESSIONAL Eva Professional’s mission is to create high quality hair care products that go hand in hand with respect for the environment and ethics, following guidelines based on innovation and development. The brand is all about the people who use its products.

Its mission is to fulfil their expectations rigorously and professionally, offering products that suit their real needs.

Divina.Pure, described as simply natural, technically perfect and totally professional, is an ammonia-free permanent colour line with powerful treatment properties that repects both hair and the environment. Ammonia, fragrance, parabens, allergens and silicones have been eliminated from the formula to provide maximum comfort for the hair. Also both the packaging and all the materials used to present this product are ecological and recyclable. www.rdr.link/HT003

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AVEDA Aveda’s range of 93% naturally-derived, vegan, cruelty-free and high-performance customisable hair colour offers infinite possibilities for a visibly rich and radiant personalised colour unique to each client. Each colour formula is infused with a signature blend of protective plant oils including certified organic jojoba, castor and sunflower oils, to help condition and deliver long-lasting, radiant shine. Aveda offers a variety of high-lift, permanent, demi- and semi-permanent hair colour options.

Green tea extract acts as a secret weapon in every Full Spectrum™ Permanent, Full Spectrum Deep™ and Full Spectrum Demi+™ Aveda hair colour formula. Instead of relying on synthetic couplers alone, Aveda adds green tea extract to the process, which helps provide broader shade possibilities. Hair colour cartons contain a minimum of 77% post-consumer recycled fiber and are FSC certified. And, like all Aveda products, Aveda hair colour is manufactured using 100% wind power through renewable energy and carbon offsets. www.rdr.link/HT004

KEMON New from all-natural Italian brand Kemon is the Yo Color System, a new way to handle colouring. Ammonia free and the first colour to be enriched with yoghurt extract and soothing organic medicinal plants, it is extremely comfortable, non-irritant, odourless and its texture – rich creamy and soft like yoghurt – is pleasant to apply and gentle on the scalp.

The Yo Color System has three synergistic products to form a colour treatment inspired by wellness. Each has a different pH value, but synergistic and harmonious shades. The three products, NaYo, Yo Green and Yo Cond aim to treat the various needs of colour treated hair in a targeted way at the base, mid-lengths and ends through localised application. The result is intense, shiny and long lasting colour. www.rdr.link/HT005

ELEVEN AUSTRALIA Eleven Australia Colour is a naturally derived colour line with an easy-to-understand, youthful, fun and exciting approach. The line delivers on simplicity and performance, incorporating the latest technologies in product development to create a high-performance range that delivers trusted results whilst maintaining the health and integrity of the hair.

The Demi-Permanent Liquid Colour has 30 intermixable colours including 11 pastel shades, providing colourists with the possibility to create seamless naturals, bright fashion statements, clean ashes and soft pastel hues. Formulated with naturally derived ingredients like Hydrolysed Pea Protein to help prevent breakage, Organic Sunflower Oil adds instant shine and softness to hair while Hydrolysed Quinoa helps with colour retention, condition and protection.

The Powder Lighteners include an in-built Bond Repairing Complex within the powder itself. The use of Creatine and Hydrolysed Pea Protein helps strengthen strands from within the hair shaft, improving properties of bleached hair, protecting the hair against damage and breakage, keeping hair in optimal health during the lightening process.

Staying true to the brand values the range is vegan friendly, gluten free, paraben free, cruelty free, with the Demi Permanent Liquid Colour line also being Ammonia Free. www.rdr.link/HT006

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ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS The range of high performance, professional salon products Organic Colour Systems has to offer have been designed to work harmoniously with one another to give clients outstanding results in the most natural way possible. The dermatologically tested and patented permanent hair colour formula, contains the lowest possible levels of oxidative pigment (PPD/PTD) and is packed full of high grade, natural and certified organic ingredients.

Uniquely, the permanent colour works at a lower level pH than traditional chemical colours, meaning that there is no damage to the hair. The System is supported by the brand’s range of hair care products, which repair and restore the health of your clients’ hair before you even begin to colour, then re-balance and close the cuticle of the hair after colouring.

For clients who aren’t ready to make a permanent change or are sensitive to oxidative pigments, Organic Colour Systems’ semi-permanent No Limits range is vegan friendly, PPD and PTD free.

Last year Organic Colour Systems became first professional hair company in the world to produce colour bottles and caps made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic (PCR). This means that every bit of the bottle has been used for something else before. Since then the brand has also moved nearly all of its care range bottles to 100% PCR bottles as well. www.rdr.link/HT007

LA BIOSTHETIQUE Holistic, sustainable thinking has always been a key value of La Biosthetique and its culture of responsibility for nature is reflected in its products. Color & Gloss is a demi-permanent colouring system suitable for all clients who love their colour and want to gently give it more expression and shine.

Using a very gentle method, the system softly enhances instead of drastically changing colour. Completely free from ammonia and monoethanolamine (MEA), the tinting gel Color & Gloss intensifies every hair colour, whether natural or coloured. Lightened hair is given individual shading, grey hair is concealed and tired-looking lengths and ends are refreshed.

Gentle and odourless Arginine, a natural amino acid, replaces ammonia and MEA in Color & Gloss. Depending on how intense you want the colour effect to be, the processing time is between 10 minutes and half an hour. The pH neutral character of Color & Gloss protects hair and scalp, whilst natural oils such as argan, macadamia nut and sunflower protect the hair fibres and create the radiantly shiny finish that Color & Gloss is known for. www.rdr.link/HT008

LEYTON HOUSE PROFESSIONAL Australian brand Leyton House Professional has worked with an Italian chemist to develop a plant-derived colour formulation called Couture Silk. Combining the highest quality pigments and 100% grey coverage with the best from nature, Leyton House Professional boasts an amazing quality and satisfaction.

Couture Silk contains natural ingredients such as green tea, vegetable extracts, natural mineral oils and aloe vera. Blend these plant-based components together and you have a colour that gives superior results that are both gentle and healthy for hair.

The brand is also committed to sustainability, using recyclable packaging and renewable energy resources to reduce its carbon emissions. It is also 100% cruelty free and a member of PETA. Furthermore, after hearing about the global decline of bees via the media, the brand sought action to find an alternate ingredient solution to the beeswax in Couture Silk colour. Instead the new replacement synthetic component offers the same shine and lustre as the wax so for three years Leyton House Professional has been contributing to the repopulation of bee colonies by not using beeswax in its formulations. www.rdr.link/HT009

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SENSUS Sensus from Passion4Hair works every day with the commitment, responsibility and dedication for the respect of its first client; NATURE. The brand believes she has always existed whilst we are merely passing through this planet, and the greatest hope we can have today and tomorrow is to increase our consciousness and awareness of this, thus generating respect and commitment to guarantee the future of this beauty.

MC2 is the permanent colour system for salons looking for an eco-friendly colour that provides a safe and gentle colouring service.

Ammonia free with no added PPD or Resorcinol, MC2 delivers bright and long lasting permanent colour results while delivering 100% white coverage.

It’s vegan-friendly formulation uses ECOCERT approved Quinoa and Acai Berries to protect hair whilst moisturising, ensuring maximum coverage and colour durability. Sensus uses a visionary and respectful technology with the objective of creating minimal environmental impact. It knows the difference between looking eco friendly and being eco friendly. www.rdr.link/HT010

NATULIQUE Natulique Professional Hair Colours are strictly designed with a focus on natural ingredients that provide a more gentle hair colour experience and added conditioning powers. The brand has developed a unique and exclusive formula that includes pure natural sunflower seed extract, jojoba oil and apricot seed oil, which has enabled it to create ‘pleasant to use’ colour with less chemicals and better functionality.

Natulique’s natural-based permanent hair colour system is safer during use for sensitive scalps and hair because it maximises the use of natural ingredients while minimising the use of chemicals.

The outcome is a 98.02% natural derived nourishing cream-based colour with 100% grey coverage. It has 74 ammonia-free permanent shades including five intense mixable tones. Both semiand demicustomisable, this is a hair colour that improves the structure of the hair by respecting the hair fibre and pH with no irritating fumes for a better salon environment for both you and your clients. www.rdr.link/HT011

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Botanéa is L’Oréal Professionnel’s first 100% herbal hair colour. It offers a personalised colour result that works with your client’s natural base, with an extensive palette of natural shades from light blonde through to deep chocolate brunette.

At the heart of Botanéa are three herbal ingredients, Pure Henna, Indigo and Cassia, all plants sustainably sources from India. Its unique formula offers the combination of these three herbal powders for customised results. You simply combine these powder pigments to obtain the desired shade and then mix with water heated to a precise temperature depending on the colour recipe. The water allows the tinctorial properties of the botanical powder to release, making it possibly to permanently yet gently dye the hair surface. The result is no lightening and no damage to the hair fibre. www.rdr.link/HT012

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PEOPLE

AWork Art of

As a stylist, educator, art director and mentor, PAULINE McCABE’s love of art has defined her career and ensured that her hair work is always creatively a cut above.

It’s time to meet the lady herself…

sk any hairdresser where they ‘draw’ their inspiration and the answers can range from all kinds of sources: fashion, nature, travel, film sets, for example. For Pauline McCabe, the answer is more visceral. With a background in fine art and a talented painter, her creative thoughts are often, quite literally, drawn out in one of her sketchbooks.

Hailing from Scotland, these days Pauline’s base couldn’t be further away from her humble roots in the town of Paisley, just west of Glasgow. She runs her successful salon, Rock Paper Scissors in Perth, Western Australia, close to the coast. She describes this peaceful city wrapped by sandy beaches as somewhere she loves for its weather, lifestyle and buzzing creative scene. While the weather may not have been such a draw back in Scotland, Pauline’s early days are still something she describes with fondness.

One of five children, Pauline and her siblings were brought up single-handedly by her mother, a nurse, who worked incredibly hard - often night shifts - to support her big family. Prior to nursing, Pauline’s mum had been a window dresser for one of the big department stores. You don’t have to look far to see where the imaginative flair came from and Pauline recalls her early years as being full of art and creativity.

She set her sights on a graphic design course, which offered a fast track to art school, but the syllabus ended up being too technical and something Pauline says was just “not my thing”. The creativity was finding other outlets instead; making her own jewellery, for instance, and not least in the vibrant clubbing scene she was enjoying in her late teens. With a career in art looking less likely, she remembers being in awe of the hairdressing friends she’d meet at the nightclubs. “They always had the best clothes and style,” Pauline confides. “They were just really cool and

I must admit I was quite seduced.”

Deciding that a future in hair could be her calling, Pauline set off to the best salon Scotland had to offer at the time – Rusk in Glasgow, owned by icons of hair world, Rita and Irvine Rusk. Her gutsy approach paid off and while there were no apprentice positions going, they gave her a trial and her enthusiasm impressed so much that she was offered a job on the spot.

Pauline became a valued member of the team and she credits her time there for giving her the deep respect she has for the artistry of hair today. “I realised that hairdressing could be so much more than just cutting hair. There was a real appreciation of art and culture at Rusk. Being immersed in this place gave me a love for Bauhaus along with progressive designers such as Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons. Without a doubt it propelled me creatively,” she recalls.

When the Rusks eventually split, Pauline followed Irvine to the USA and became involved with education and product development for the newly formed product company from a base in LA. It was while on stage in Long Beach that her next, chance encounter with one of the hair world’s brightest luminaries would light up her path. Trevor Sorbie was in the crowd and word got back that he wanted to meet her. His Art Director for the USA had just left and there was a gap to fill, but Sorbie liked Pauline so much he instead invited her back to the UK where she would take over as Art Director at the famed Covent Garden salon.

Working alongside a massive pool of talent, this was ‘dream come true’ territory. Pauline was brushing shoulders with the likes of Antoinette Beenders, Sally and Jamie Brooks, John Chapman and Eugene Souleiman. Describing Trevor Sorbie as, “inspiring, kind and humble,” Pauline considers herself blessed to have been given this opportunity. Even so, when an old friend from Glasgow got in touch with a proposal to team up and help expand her blossoming salon, Pauline couldn’t refuse.

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PEOPLE

Macgregor McLaughlin was a trailblazing Aveda concept salon, situated on the Kings’ Road in Chelsea. Frequented by the big stars of the day such as Robbie Williams, the duo had a hoot and made a big success of it too. Just before Pauline turned 30 though she had what she calls an “Eat, Pray, Love” style epiphany. With a burning desire to travel, and her business partner hankering after a future on movie sets, the salon was sold and Pauline bought a round the world ticket with the proceeds.

The travel bug bit hard and Pauline found herself visiting India, Nepal, Thailand, Indonesia and eventually – the final pitstop on this particular ticket – Perth, Australia. Captivated by this place with its laidback vibe, Pauline once again sought out the best salon around, Maurice Meade and secured herself a job. A cycle of contract work followed that included training and creating billboard campaigns for the high-profile brand, interspersed with more periods of travel. Until – another epiphany – Pauline decided while watching the sunrise from a leaky tent at the peak of Machu Picchu that she needed to put down roots and headed back finally, and so far permanently, to Perth.

And so, the next part of Pauline’s adventurous life began. A husband (who Pauline giggles was bewitched by a love potion she’d picked up in Bolivia), two children and her very own salon – Rock Paper Scissors, a place dedicated to using products that are sulphur and paraben free, cruelty free and eco-friendly – came next. No surprises though that the quiet life wasn’t ever going to be an option. Instead, Pauline set about growing a stellar portfolio and continues to dazzle on a global stage, balancing her days in the salon with educating, shooting and her prolific session work.

Over the last five years, Pauline has notched up some impressive accolades, including being part of the uber-league at all the major Fashion Weeks and even directing her own opening show at Sydney Fashion Week. Mingling backstage with the likes of Duffy, Guido and James Pecis, she credits a non-inflated ego and a desire to improve as the keys to her success. “You have to practice, never stop learning and always be humble to work at the top level in the hair industry,” she admits. “I’m still learning, always the student. Watching, being open and being honest about the things you need to refine is so important.”

For someone so committed to their own personal development, it’s little wonder that Pauline is a hugely talented educator herself. Her latest venture, ‘The Hair Mentor’ has been set up to give fledgling stylists an insight into the session world and has been designed for young people with a thirst for insight and education from the top level. “You learn secrets

backstage that you just don’t get anywhere else.” Pauline confides. Her motivation? “I love seeing others blossom, shine and grow.”

Pauline’s prowess is more than merely technical though.

Intelligent and spiritually aware, she is fascinated by the concept of creative thinking. “I love the development of ideas: Where they come from, ways of looking at them, context, how to develop them.” And then there’s the much-loved art that has been a creative outlet since her youth. The move to Perth meant she could finally fulfil a dream and go back to study fine art. Now, with a ‘double major’ qualification under her belt, she may not always carve out the time to paint, but her love of art bubbles away, never far from the surface and influences her work now as much as ever.

“My background in art has been a great addition to my career,” she acknowledges. “It’s informed and developed my style and given me a visual eye for line, balance and form. I always reference back to art in my hair work.” Indeed, she admits that most of her creative energy is channelled into one of her many shoots and shows these days. When collating cues for her one of her latest collections the sketchbook inevitably comes out. “I start to pull influences together like whispers in the wind or threads of ideas. I keep visual diaries too, words, mind maps, drawings. The more I draw, the more they develop.”

Pauline credits her family time, the outdoorsy lifestyle and love of nature she enjoys in Perth as grounding her. And she’s a huge advocate of the Australian hair scene. “Australian hairdressers have a beautiful quality to their work. There used to be a gap in trends over here – a season behind – and the country was seen as alternative. Now we’re all a bit better informed and in sync. Ideas are more fluid and immediate, it’s like a global well we’re all tapping into.”

It’s clear that Pauline’s respect for the Australian hair industry is reciprocated too. This year she was specially invited to compete in the 2020 AHFA Australian Hairdresser of the Year category in recognition of her outstanding work. With her sights set on awards, she also can’t wait to get back to the buzz of backstage and make a return to work alongside the greats at one of her beloved Fashion Weeks. The future looks bright and it seems this globetrotting, creative artist from Paisley has a whole world of opportunities in her hands.

From the next issue, Pauline McCabe joins the Pro Hair Team as contributor for ALL THINGS OZ. With the ‘new normal’ it is fasinating for the UK hairdressing industry to understand what it going on creatively down under and Pauline is the lady to deliver the goods.

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Hair Pauline McCabe at Rock Paper Scissors, Fremantle, Western Australia Make up Hendra Widjaja Styling Paul O'Connor Photography Jeremy Choh

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THE BLONDE WAVE SCREAMS GHD TO ME; SHE’S A BEAUTIFUL GIRL WITH POLISHED, HEALTHY WAVES AND A YOUNG, FUN FEEL. THIS LOOK IS MODERN AND CREATIVE, BUT WITH A NOD TO CLASSIC GHD HAIR.

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WITH THESE LOOKS, I WANTED TO SHOW THE VERSATILITY OF THE GHD BRAND AND THE PORTFOLIO OF TOOLS WE AVAILABLE. IN THE CURRENT CLIMATE, SALONS NEED TO HAVE SOMETHING NEW TO OFFER THEIR CLIENTS. A STYLING MENU LIKE THIS CREATES A POINT OF DIFFERENCE, AND A STARTING POINT FOR A CONVERSATION WITH CLIENTS ABOUT STYLING AND THE TOOLS THEY MIGHT NEED.

Hair Luke Benson Make-Up Clare Evans Styling Ozzy Shah Photography Claire Rothstein

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THIS OVERSIZED BOW IS MY FAVOURITE LOOK – THE RIBBON IS A NOD TO THE CURRENT TREND FOR ACCESSORIES, BUT ELEVATED. I USED THE GHD CREATIVE CURL WAND ON THIS LOOK; MY FAVOURITE TOOL FOR CREATING BENDS AND WAVES.

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MY CHRISTMAS QUEENS ARE FUN, MODERN AND CREATIVE – BUT I WANTED TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT EACH GIRL’S OWN PERSONALITY TOO. I WANTED TO GIVE PEOPLE IDEAS FOR KEEPING ALL THEIR CLIENTS HAPPY AND PROVIDE NEW IDEAS AND CREATIVE DIRECTION FOR THEIR HAIR.

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This look was inspired by faux fur. I wanted to emulate a rug on the hair showing definition and sharpness with the pieces of hair but the overall look having a dense softness about it.

HARE & BONE Hair Jamie Benny, Artistic Director, HARE & BONE Make-up Bes Sweet Stylist Neil Stuart Products KMS Photography Jenny Hands

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT013

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This look was all about detail and texture which combined different textures of fabrics together to create the impact. Â

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The inspiration behind this look was based around double denim and how it frays towards the ends.

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The fabric that came to mind when making this look was faux fur.

I wanted to create something that had density but softness.Â

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Naturally poker straight hair was calling for some body! Using hair straighteners the hair was bent to create these ‘bends’ in the hair – adding movement and fun.

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Sweet little pixie cut – so suited model Tilly – she has a natural ‘kink’ in her hair – so by keeping the longer length means that she can play with different textures.

GUY KREMER Hair Guy Kremer Artistic Team Make-up Ellen K Bridger Photography Jonny Engstrom

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT014

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Beautiful curls – tonged throughout to tame and finger dressed to enhance models natural texture.

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Stunning cut and colour by JC Aucamp and Chloe Etherington – partial block colour applied from crown – strong side parting.

Great colour and cut by JC Aucamp – very thick hair was cut into a bowl cut and blow-dried with product to elevate at ends.

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THE LATEST ADVICE AND PRODUCT NEWS TO FRESHEN UP YOUR MEN’S HAIR OFFERING.

MONAT Black 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner is a complete system that gently cleanses and conditions whilst maintaining essential moisture balance to support youthful, healthy hair. The formula contains REJUVENIQUE Oil Intensive, a blend of 13 natural plant and essential oils rich in omega fatty acids and Capixyl, an anti-ageing care complex that helps protect the scalp and strengthen and thicken hair. www.rdr.link/HT015

A master barber with over 30 years experience in hair and photography, Tony Haresign talks the trend he sees emerging post pandemic.

OSMO Beard Complex is a stellar solution for dry and damaged beards. The intense gentleman’s conditioning oil is infused with Argan Oil rich in vitamins A and E to nourish, moisturise and restore hair and skin to optimum condition. www.rdr.link/HT016

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL Matte Hed Mouldable is a long-lasting matte paste with a lightweight formula ideal for finer hair types.

The unique clay-cream texture smooths easily through hair and won’t weigh it down.

Creating texture and definition, Matt Hed Mouldable is enriched with FLEXI-FIBRE technology to provide flexible medium hold and enhanced with CLIMATE CONTROL shield to provide all-day humidity protection. www.rdr.link/HT017

Since creating the long haired looks of the Block Rockin’ Collection (see page 53), I didn’t think it would require a pandemic for men’s hair trends to change, but maybe it has?

After every man in Britain spent more than four months without a professional haircut, unless you were lucky enough to have a family member who was the hairdresser or a barber.

A week into lockdown and I launched a mug to purchase on my barbershop website, which had the slogan “Stay Home & Grow Your Hair” in a bid to encourage clients to refrain from home/self cuts, and giving them the opportunity to get on the VIP list to get the first bookings when

the shop reopened.

The result has been a huge influx of clients with longer locks, and after welcoming them back with a virtual handshake, it was on to the consultation.

And this is where I found different answers to what I expected. A lot of guys requesting to keep the length on top, longer fringes, but also retaining weight at the sides with some clients wanting to grow out all the length, aiming for something around shoulder length.

It’s been great to see this shift, allowing barbers and men’s hairdressers to use their scissor skills more and put down the clippers for five minutes and

create masculine shapes as in the Block Rockin’ Collection.

Longer fringes, texture and the yearn for colour and bleaching has also been on the list. Maybe it’s all the hours of scrolling through Instagram and Facebook looking at images of haircuts that they just could not get, that has encouraged men to think outside the realms of the fade and to venture into a new era in men’s hair. Or maybe, like a client said to me last week “That’s it I’ve had enough! Take it all off!!” and it was back to the crew cut.

One thing I found interesting, post lockdown, is that clients are more open to suggestions than previously, and who knows, this pandemic may change things for the better in fashion and 2021 could bring with it some extremely different looks.

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MENS

#menshair @SUAVEHAIR

@RUFFIANS

@NO.95BARBERSHOP

@MRJOHNNY_BABA

@MRSAMWALL

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@THELIONSBARBERS

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@DZ_TRIMZ

@HAIRBYTONYHARESIGN

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ROCK GODS TONY HARESIGN GIVES US THE LOW DOWN ON THE IDEAS BEHIND THE BLOCK ROCKIN’ COLLECTION THAT HE CREATED IN COLLABORATION WITH ALLAN STONE. After working with the very talented, Allan Stone, on many occasions, at hair shows and barbering conventions across the country, we thought it was about time for us to put our heads together and create a collection: Something that not only looks forward at future trends for men’s hair, but also to reference memories from our childhood and youth.

Although the skin fade has been the staple of the barbershop for many years, we just felt that there was a bit of a movement in men’s hair. This switch was towards the longer, more flowing styles, but still with a definite shape and structure.

Whilst brainstorming and creating a ‘Mood Board’ around the collection, we drew on our influencers as kids, from watching Led Zeppelin and ACDC on TV, to listening to Black Sabbath and Whitesnake on the radio.

And personally remembering, being in the local nightclub watching guys all dressed up, with fabulous long hair, draped in full ‘Rock God’ regalia, surrounded by women dancing to ‘Livin’ on a Prayer.’

But being an apprentice at the time it was extremely difficult to try to grow my hair, as everyone in the salon wanted to cut, colour or perm your hair (yes...we did perms back then).

So as I looked on, I realised I had to take a different style and began supporting the ‘Quiff,’ à la Nick Kaman style (Who? ...Look him up).

For Allan, his main influence was INXS and the big hair of Micheal Hutchence, loads of curls!

We worked with Tyne Tees Models, to select guys that not only had the right hair but the unique looks for the shoot.

But when one model arrived, due to a prior job, his hair was much shorter than we expected!

As we had already decided, who was styling which model, Alan turned to me, laughed and said in his Geordie twang “Wat yer gunna do now?”

SO I DELVED INTO MY BAG OF TRICKS! At the bottom of the case, I had some hair extensions left over from a previous shoot and used them to extend the fringe.

There was also a bit of a colour problem! Since his hair was dark and the hair extensions were silver! Thankfully, even deeper in the bottom of the case, I had a couple of cans of silver hairspray, which I used to obliterate his natural colour and match it to the extension.

We both come from similar backgrounds, with a grounding in hairdressing and then later moving into men’s hair. We found the styles in this collection, both challenging and interesting, and it allowed us to create this work with the amazing photographer Marie Harkness.

We had both seen her work before when she worked with Sam Wall, and felt that she would be perfect for this project, bringing in some of her own personality to the images.

A real fun part of the shoot behind the camera, I was utilised as an assistant ‘Chief Wafter’ using a huge reflector, to blow the hair, to achieve that wind-machine Rock ‘n’ Roll effect.

Because after all that’s what photoshoots are about.

It’s about having fun and collaborating with other artists and creatives to bring your vision to life.

AND IF THIS IS SOMETHING THAT YOU’D LIKE TO FIND MORE ABOUT, SIGN UP TO MY PRE-LAUNCH LIST NOW FOR MY NEW COURSE, WHERE I GO DEEP INTO MY THREE STEP PLAN OF HOW TO: PLAN, SHOOT AND PUBLISH YOUR OWN COLLECTION, AND IS LAUNCHING IN NOVEMBER. SIGN UP NOW AT HAIRCOLLECTIONMASTERY.COM @hairbytonyharesign hairbytonyharesign.com haircollectionmastery.com

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CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT018

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Tony Haresign & Allan Stone HAIR Ellie Gibsonn MAKE-UP /STYLING Marie Harkness PHOTOGRAPHY American Crew PRODUCTS

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BUSINESS

Crisis Planning CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT019

When Covid-19 came to the UK, it brought with it the end of our working lives as we know it. Before lockdown, the hair and barber industry was booming. There was some great creativity happening and a lot of amazing work was being put out there. It was a great industry. Personally, we opened three stores last year and had plans to expand and grow this year so for us, we were in great shape with lots of plans in place. Then lockdown happened and everything changed.

As a company we had been watching what was happening around the world and started thinking about what it could look like for us in the UK. We looked at the business and what support we needed and planned around this. Now, the economy and the position we find ourselves in isn’t great and as yet, there is no real end in sight.

Currently there are so many challenges we face as an industry. Realistically we will be dealing with Covid-19 for a long time and I don’t see a silver bullet for it. So, we have to learn to manage and react from a business perspective. Clients all rushed in when we reopened which was great, but it’s what happening now and to the end of this year which will be critical. Customer confidence in coming back to work and to the city and town centres is be crucial. Salon owners will have to look at their cash flow and work really hard to get through this. Because there is still a

Joe Mills of The Lounge Soho and Joe & Co looks at the ongoing effects of Covid-19 on the hair and barber industry...

“...we have to learn to manage and react from a business perspective.

Clients all rushed in when we reopened which was great, but it’s what happening now and to the end of this year which will be critical.”

sector of society still afraid to travel or go into town and city centres, I see a rise in home services and I think this will elevate its position in the industry. Any salon owner who has been through past recessions will know that there are always opportunities. It’s the perfect time to recruit and we have been able to recruit some amazing new team members. It’s also a good time to be looking at properties and there have been some opportunities around some new sites we have considered. The government backed loans helped and can be used for cash flow as well as expansion – if you have the nerve!

Now, it’s all about focusing on your business to make sure you survive; look at your numbers, look where you are spending and tighten it up. See if you can get your product suppliers to support you. Look at how your team how is performing and helping the business to get through this period, they are your assets. Really plan what you want to achieve and what you have to do to get there.

Speak to your bank and see what support you can get if you need it and make sure you speak to anyone you may owe money to and see what can be done. Getting through to the end of this year will have its challenges and if they reinstate any more regional or national lockdowns then we all know it’s going to be tough.

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Award-winning salon owner CAROLINE SANDERSON heads up the Salon Jedi Coaching Academy, and is author of a new book, ‘The Ultimate Business Bible for Ambitious Salon Owners’ available on Amazon this month. Here she talks about the fear of pricing and why salon owners shouldn’t be scared to charge what they’re worth…

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT020

Are you scared to raise your prices?

“On the one hand, you believe you’re worth paying more for, but on the other, you don’t believe that customers will pay more for you. It’s a clash of the inner belief of ‘yes, I’m worth it,’ and ‘no, I’m not worthy.’”

Many salon owners and stylists struggle with a fear of pricing; particularly in this current climate, where many know that they have got to charge more to cover extra costs. Some of these costs typically include PPE, extra cleaning and taking more time over services. These costs mean that prices have got to increase.

What happens next is something called ‘cognitive dissonance.’ To put it simply, cognitive dissonance is when you hold two or more conflicting beliefs.

Take these two situations In the first situation, you’re aware as a stylist that you are worth more than what you currently charge. You also know that you should be charging more, and you definitely know that you’re worth it – and so you should! You’re great at what you do. You know that you’re under charging.

That is one belief that you hold, and you believe that you are good enough to increase the price for your services.

In contrasting situation number two, you have a fear of charging more because you have a limiting belief that your customers won’t agree. You’re scared that they’ll complain, and that they won’t be happy to pay.

These beliefs are contrary with what you believed in situation one. These are based around a limiting belief that you’re not good enough, and that the customers will not pay more. What this means is that deep down you don’t believe that you’re worthy, and that because of this they just won’t pay it.

On the one hand, you believe you’re worth paying more for, but on the other, you don’t believe that customers will pay more for you. It’s a clash of the inner belief of ‘yes, I’m worth it,’ and ‘no, I’m not worthy.’

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BUSINESS

“No matter where your limiting beliefs stem from, when you say things like ‘nobody will pay this,’ or ‘my current customers will go elsewhere,’ you’re making an affirmation.

Your brain will then perceive these concerns as factual.”

When your values and your inner beliefs clash, it causes cognitive dissonance. This is why you often find yourself tangled in an inner struggle; you’re not following your own values!

When you value yourself, and know in your heart, ‘I’m worth more and I have to pay more out, so I need to charge more and price for profits’– it feels good! This is because when you think of that prospect you are living by your values, whilst knowing that you’re giving a fabulous service and making profit too!

Don’t ever forget that there are customers out there who pay more, who don’t complain about it, and there are more than plenty out there who will be more than willing to pay the extra cost for your services. Once you truly believe this, you’re living by your highest values and your self-worth.

But when you choose to focus on the limiting beliefs that you’re going to lose all of your customers or that all of your customers are going to complain, you’re going to hold yourself back. These limiting beliefs are really saying ‘I’m not worthy.’

No matter where your limiting beliefs stem from, when you say things like ‘nobody will pay this,’ or ‘my current customers will go elsewhere,’ you’re making an affirmation. Your brain will then perceive these concerns as factual.

Focus on the positive The true reality is that there are already customers out there that are paying more than your current prices, and there are customers that pay even double that price! Why focus on the people that moan? The majority of people don’t, and they pay the cost happily.

Sometimes, we tend to focus on the few little complaints, saying to ourselves, ‘Yeah, I told you, I told you this would happen. I knew this would happen!’ Yes, because you created that belief system.

You focused on the limiting beliefs, and what you give your energy to, you get more of; that’s how the brain works!

What your beliefs tell your brain to focus on, you’re attracting into your

reality. The best way forward is to always live by your highest values; if you know that you are worth more, then you know you have to charge more to make profits.

There is no better feeling than when you finally come to the realisation of, ‘Yes. I’m living by my highest values. I am serving people fantastically, and I believe I deserve to be paid well in the process of doing that.’ If you live by that value and that belief and pay less attention to the negative and limiting belief that people won’t pay it, you will discover a strong sense of self-worth within you.

Know that if clients complain or refuse to pay, these people really don’t value you. I’m happy to let them go and replace them with new people who are on the vibration of my higher self-worth, and who are happy to pay my new prices.

When you live by your highest values, amazing things start to happen. The reasons that you felt so stressed were all down to the fact that you weren’t doing this before! You weren’t living your true purpose; you were trying to live by other people’s values.

You were really saying, ‘I’m going to live in the minority of other people’s values; refrain from putting my prices up, charge less and make no profit to keep these few people happy, and as a result be totally miserable myself stuck in fear.’

When you look at it like that, it’s insane!

Live by your own highest values, charge what you know you are worth, and feel proud of it!

The only reason this wouldn’t work, is if you were trying to charge more than the worth of the service, and not giving matching value to your customers. For example, charging a really high price, but the customer doesn’t see or feel any more value compared to the cheaper service you had before.

If you’re increasing your prices, make sure you know you are giving an amazing service and extreme value to your customers. Even when you first put up your prices, if you aren’t offering extra value, you are more likely to get grumbles.

For example, give a free treatment or a free shampoo with a service you offer, whilst still making profit because of the new increased price of the service!

Another good example could be giving a nice head massage whilst a treatment is developing. This costs nothing but enriches the clients experience, making the service worth more. Write a list of all the little extras you can give. These small bonuses add value and in turn, your clients are more than happy to pay the new prices!

Hopefully having read this, you’ll better understand my take on increasing your prices. Have fun with it, be creative! With your client’s best interests at heart you can do amazing things for them, whilst living by your highest values and making profit for yourself all at the same time.

Get rid of this cognitive dissonance and your limiting beliefs; they keep you trapped in a place of low vibration and low self-worth. This is NOT where you want to be. You DO want to be living your life to your highest purpose and by your highest values, because that is when you’ll be at your happiest.

You feel free! Amazing things happen, and you attract more opportunities, more clients, more happiness, more freedom and all the things you want in life, because you are living by your highest values.

If you want to find out what limiting beliefs you have that are holding you back, and how to eliminate them and achieve the goals you have for both you and your business, email salonjedimarketing.com to book a free breakthrough call with of our coaches.

Caroline Sanderson, Author of The Salon Jedi book ‘The Ultimate Business Bible for Ambitious Salon Owners’

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How can one email generate £10,000 worth of bookings?

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT021

Gavin Mills is owner of Bad Apple Hair Salons, nine salons in the West Midlands and Liverpool, and an academy in Wolverhampton. With an active client base of 38,000, and a 70-strong team, Gavin is an advocate of utilising technology to enhance the smooth running of the business. Here he tells us why ACCESS, DATA, TECHNOLOGY ANYWHERE is his new mantra…

In a world where a click of a few buttons can bring a delivery from Amazon Now in less than an hour, and you can communicate with anyone around the world via social media within seconds, we are a society that wants everything ‘now’.

But the salon industry is still quite behind in the digital world, and technology and cloud-based software is under-utilised to manage and build salon businesses.

Bad Apple’s goal for the rest of the year is to is to implement a new ethos/strategy to its core business plan: ACCESS, DATA, TECHNOLOGY ANYWHERE... moving us into a complete 24/7 digital world, were we use technology and data to improve our clients’ journey in and out of the salon.

“Bad Apple’s goal for the rest of the year is to is to implement a new ethos/strategy to its core business plan: ACCESS, DATA, TECHNOLOGY ANYWHERE...

OUR 4 MAIN AIMS TO ACHIEVE THIS ARE: Giving clients complete accessibility.

From 1st September we have given clients full control and access of their own appointment bookings. Why? Nobody wants to book an appointment via a website on a Saturday evening and not know if the appointment is available till the salon reopens on Tuesday, especially if they then find out the preferred appointment that day is not available. One of the main reasons clients don’t return to a salon or rebook is availability and ease of booking, people today aren’t as keen to phone a salon to find out availability or wait.

With our new systems, clients can now book appointments, and see full service history past and future via our online website portal and mobile apps, this enables so many benefits for us as well, including being able to charge for no shows in full as they have prepaid deposits, and avoiding lost opportunities due to human error within the salon.

It also allows clients to leave reviews that instantly get pushed to Google increasing our Google ranking and searchability.

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BUSINESS

Data Control Data is king and more valuable in today’s world than having social media followers; the more data you have the more SMART decisions you can make. I’m always amazed at how some businesses chase social numbers without having a basic mailing list in place. At Bad Apple we want the data accessible on every device we own via cloud software and available to use whenever we want.

We want to be able to send emails, texts, Happy Birthday messages, reminders about appointments and encourage clients to rebook and leave reviews.

The more data you have the more decisions you can make to improve your business and increase revenue, but it’s important that this data is accessible and easy to use while meeting GDPR guidelines.

An example of this: we sent a short message out as an email the first week of September to make clients aware they could now download our app to manage their appointments – 5,000 emails went out and 600 people within the first 3 hours downloaded the app and 100 people booked appointments, generating over £10,000 of bookings – this was all trackable. This is just one of many benefits of making data work for you.

Moving to a cloud based software system that allows you to access data and using this for marketing campaigns will help you and your clients stay connected or reconnect if lost.

Subscriptions Retail sales are dropping in every salon – no matter what any salon says buying habits have changed due to the easy access to good products online and with appointment gaps longer between client visits, when clients run out of their products they just add an alternative to their weekly shopping list or jump online to Amazon, resulting in: 1

Clients not buying products when they return to the salon on the next appointment 2 Clients thinking the hair colour didn’t last as long due to them not using the right products 3 Clients finding a better alternative that you don’t stock!

Bad Apple is now introducing client subscriptions via its mobile app allowing clients to buy products via the app or subscribe to a monthly product package so they can mix and match their products based on what the stylist/technician has recommended.

We believe this will keep clients connected to the salon, increase revenue and maintain good quality hair at home.

Technology The more information we have the better we can meet the client’s needs, so we’ve introduced the new Salonlab Smart Analyzer which combines, for the first time, hairdresser expertise with data driven insights to provide a truly personalised consultation.

Th first device that allows the hairdresser to scan inside the hair structure through new infrared technology. This will allow staff to guide clients and recommend what treatments and products are best to use. We believe this will set us apart from what other salons are offering in the area giving us an edge to gain new clients and retain clients long term, and supporting our retail subscription initiative. Embracing new technology ensures the client gets a professional experience and insight that they can’t emulate at home. We’ve also introduced Digital Magazines – with Covid-19 restricting so many things within the salon experience our new digital magazine allows clients to scan a QR code and read what ever magazine they want out of 100 available current titles.

As a salon owner myself, I know that we are often so busy with the day-to-day that we can overlook areas like technology upgrades which can also be frustrating or feel prohibitive because of a lack of knowledge about this area. I would urge you to make this part of your business plan because once implemented, these tech tweaks can make life easier and business more profitable.

...moving us into a complete 24/7 digital world, where we use technology and data to improve our clients’ journey in and out of the salon.”

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SALON PROFILE

Mark McCarthy, owner of MARKDAVID salon talks about the design inspiration of his stunning salon.

M

y salon, MARKDAVID, is a new salon, which I opened mid-November 2019. I was looking to create an exciting place to work and after some research I found exactly what I was looking for.

A beautiful property became available in Stockbridge, Edinburgh, one of the city’s most vibrant areas, surrounded by elegant Georgian and Victorian terraced houses, quaint cafes and trendy gastro pubs. Stockbridge is also home to Stockbridge Market, which provides jewellery, crafts and food. The “We pride ourselves beautiful and eclectic location was my inspiration, and my passion to open a new on being luxurious, salon was instantly sparked. The area is one aspirational, of the most sought after in Edinburgh and the welcoming and space was a blank canvas that I immediately knew I could bring to life and make a friendly. For the team, success. From signing the lease to opening working at the salon it took under a month and since MARKDAVID is not just opening day, it’s been a huge success. We pride ourselves on being luxurious, a job, but a lifestyle, aspirational, welcoming and friendly. For the and for clients, it’s team, working at MARKDAVID is not just a not just a salon but a job, but a lifestyle, and for clients, it’s not just haven – somewhere a salon but a haven – somewhere they can have a truly exceptional experience, relax, they can have a truly indulge and be at one with themselves. exceptional When designing the salon I had a vision experience, relax, in mind and firstly created a mood board with my ideas and colour schemes that I loved. I indulge and be at had many ideas for the salon, and I used my one with themselves.”

21 years of experience of working in some of the world’s best salons in Australia and the UK to help create my own space that I knew clients would adore. I took into consideration client feedback, along with my own attention to detail and creativity to create a haven of relaxation in a luxurious surrounding whilst working within the budget I had set for myself. My inspiration and mood board had the vibe of an exclusive club or speakeasy. I wanted the salon to be reminiscent of the Great Gatsby era – elite, welcoming, aspirational and Edinburgh’s best-kept secret! The aim was to inspire clients and instead of the salon looking like a salon, I wanted it be decorated and styled like a house, with a welcoming feel and eclectic aesthetic.

edinburgh elegance

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I knew I wanted green to be the primary colour within the salon. It’s a very luxurious colour and I thought it would work really well with the accents of gold that I wanted to have around the salon and it would provide the salon with a contemporary and elegant finish. The use of green is a bold choice but actually it’s the colour of life, renewal, finance and energy.

The back wall is a statement wall, with floral/tropical wallpaper and is also panelled a quarter of the way up the wall. The panelling continues around the salon with above the styling stations featuring herringbone dark oak panelling, which compliments the dark green paint shade and styling stations beautifully and works well with the gold accessories, particularly our large golden vintage style mirrors at the styling station areas. I chose a very elegant colour palette and the marble lighting at the styling stations along with the marble worktops in the colour bar “I knew I wanted green to be section of the salon add a new the primar y colour within the texture to the salon interior. The colour bar section is completed salon. It’s a ver y luxurious with brass tiling. This is another colour and I thought it would stand out feature in the salon and work really well with the accents has an art deco feel, which links of gold that I wanted to have back to a bygone area of style. To break up the colour in the salon we around the salon and it would decided to opt for brown leather provide the salon with a styling chairs, which rotate contemporar y and elegant backwards and can also be used for beauty treatments. These were finish. The use of green is a bold purchased from Living It Up Salon choice but actually it’s the and add further texture and colour of life, renewal, finance introduce depth to the salon colour palette. and energy.”

The window space was completely empty prior to us refurbishing the salon and we decided to turn this into a sitting area with window seats and beautiful velvet and tropical cushions. Client’s sit whilst waiting for their appointment and are able to look out the large windows onto the beautiful area of Stockbridge, people watching and admiring the surroundings.

Fresh flowers feature around the salon from a local florist, beautiful glasses, champagne flutes and gold crockery, inspired by Jonathan Adler, along with gold display trays that are used to deliver client’s beverages on. The products we chose to stock in the salon were taken into consideration, as they needed to complete our aesthetic. We selected Wella colour and Davines wet and styling products. Davines for us was a brand that was not just about hair but also about aromatherapy and sustainability, and clients always compliment how it performs and the beautiful aroma it gives out in the salon. We also just recently started to collaborate with two candle companies that fit our brand and share our ethos. We love having the candles situated around the salon and lit for clients to smell all the different aromas.

Our design really does draw in clients. From the outside, clients can see into the salon windows and can see our tropical wallpaper and the Japanese silk kimonos hanging up that we provide to clients. Outside the salon we also have been working on our garden. We have an array of brightly coloured and fresh flowers and also have a bench for clients to sit on whilst they wait to come into the salon for their appointment. We also recently added a red rope outside of the salon, this again provides a really exclusive look to the salon, which clients have loved and have passed many comments on.

When designing a salon I think it’s incredibly important to think of how your colour scheme will make your clients feel, the furniture and lighting and if this will make your client feel the upmost comfortable during their visit at the salon and also your extra touches – crystal glasses, crockery etc. These all add to the clients experience and make them want to come back.

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STEP BY STEP

Always belieinve Wish Upon A Star for wonderful waves and hair dreams will come true with ghd.

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STEP ONE PREP: Spritz hair with ghd curl hold spray.

STEP TWO SECTION: Take a horizontal section from ear to ear and take a small section to begin.

STEP THREE TECHNIQUE: Place ghd gold at the roots, pointing down.

Close and rotate a half a turn away from the face.

STEP FIVE GLIDE: Glide the styler down towards the ends of the hair.

STEP SIX CONTINUE: Work through the hair, always curling away from the face.

STEP SEVEN FACE FRAME: Rotate the styler at eye level to create softness.

STEP EIGHT SHINE: Spritz a paddle brush with ghd final shine spray.

STEP NINE BRUSH: Brush from route to tip to combine the curls into soft waves.

STEP TEN FINISH: Mist the hair with ghd final fix hairspray.

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HT022

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

10of out 10

Fast and natural hair colour

T

here are a number of reasons why the MC2 FASTCOLOR from Sensus is a no brainer in salon at the moment: Appealing to those time-poor clients and offering them a 10 minute service; for those who don’t feel comfortable being in the salon for longer than necessary at the moment for health and safety reasons and also for those looking for a more sustainable offering in their hair colour.

The innovative professional hair colour enables salons to offer a permanent colour service with just 10 minutes development time. The structured Micro Pigments in the formula aided by the Vegetable Amino Acids act as an ‘easy transfer’. The result is guaranteed perfect coverage, vibrant and long lasting colour in just 10 minutes.

Ammonia free with no added PPD, MC2 FASTCOLOR is an oxidation colouring product designed for faster services. Formulated with natural ingredients, it is also eco and vegan friendly.

There are 33 colours and one neutral shade which can be intermixed for infinite, personalised palettes. ●

●

You can retouch your client’s greys in between her normal colour service increasing her frequency of visits and also your revenue.

Emphasise and accentuate your client’s haircut with a fast, localised three minute application and 10 minute development technique.

For more information visit www.rdr.link/HT023

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SPOTLIGHT

CHOOSE CARE

KEMON’s Actyva brand encompasses beauty and wellness and combines tradition and innovation through a partnership with science and nature.

Actyva was created in 1978 in the luscious surroundings of Umbria’s Upper Tiber Valley, where it is still produced today. It uses over 40 naturally-derived ingredients that ensure the highest performance in its products that have been designed to enhance the beauty of hair whilst maintaining a There are products, healthy scalp. treatments and services across nine categories, allowing clients to discover the line best suited to their hair.

72 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

SPECIFICI Formulated with essential oils and plant extracts to purify, balance, soothe, moisturise and restore the normal function of the scalp.

P FACTOR An integrated system in three phases that cleanses, regenerates and helps to prevent hair loss, counteracting the damaging effect of free radicals and keeping hair healthy.

LINFA SOLARE This line satisfies the specific protection, hydration and nutritional needs of hair and skin all year round, but especially in summer.

NUTRIZIONE: Customised nutrition for dry hair A blend of technologically advanced raw materials and naturally sourced functional ingredients that restore nutritional balance to all types of dry hair.

COLORE BRILLANTE: Longer-lasting, vibrant colour A product line specifically created to give colour-treated hair intensity, shine and long-lasting colour wash after wash.

All Actyva products are packaged in Green PE bottles made from sustainably sourced and recyclable sugarcane: A renewable raw material that helps to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

NUOVA FIBRA These products are formulated to restore strength and substance to damaged and brittle hair.

DISCIPLINA: Taming frizzy and rebellious hair A line to gently control frizz and maintain the desired look of perfectly straight hair or natural movement.

BELLESSERE A line of argan oil-based products formulated for hair and body care that offer soft, shiny hair and velvety smooth, delicately scented skin.

VOLUME E CORPOSITA A silicone-free line with an abundance of active ingredients that create body and volume, adding a touch of fullness and thickness.

Find out more at www.rdr.link/HT024

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THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP

WHAT’S NEW Schwarzkopf Professional has not only upgraded its assortment with new neutral, cool and pastel tones, but has also launched four new Deep Toning shades specifically design for pre-lightened darker bases 5-8. All shades have the well-known Bond Enforcing Technology integrated and now have a new gel-crème consistency that can be applied by brush or bottle, giving you more versatility in the looks you create. www.rdr.link/HT025

Neäl & Wølf’s TEXTURE has been expertly created to help stylists achieve buildable shape and movement, with long-lasting hold and volume. The spray maintains hold and style, resists humidity and absorbs excess oil whilst still retaining the hair’s natural flexibility.

TEXTURE is vegan-friendly, gluten-free and protects the hair from UV rays. www.rdr.link/HT026

New vegan Botanical repair™ by Aveda is a collection of professional and at-home care products powered by plant-derived technologies that repair and protect the three key layers of hair, leaving it visibly revived and shinier for hair that looks and feels as if it was never damaged.

Botanical repair™ was formulated for those with all hair types and textures looking to repair or strengthen their hair. It also is safe for colour treated and chemically processed hair. www.rdr.link/HT027

Kent Salon has unveiled nine luxury combs created specifically for hairdressers and barbers.

The professional combs are made from hard rubber and feature seamless teeth which are saw cut. This ensures they are gentle on the hair and scalp and leave no cuticle damage. In addition, the combs have been developed to be resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. www.rdr.link/HT028

KCSMOOTH delivers maximum manageability in under two hours thanks to its unique two-step, heat-activated system. This addition to the Keratin Complex smoothing treatment portfolio contains a new proprietary blend of Signature Keratin, amino acids and antioxidants that instantly conditions, strengthens and repairs damage for healthier, more manageable hair with results that last up to three months. www.rdr.link/HT029

Kérastase has unveiled its stunning new Chronologiste Anti-Aging Hair Care range.

Harnessing the powers of Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate, Vitamin E to protect and Abyssine to regenerate, the line up includes products to pre-cleanse, cleanse, treat, protect and then activate hair. The six stunning products centre around restoring youthful dimensions to the hair and scalp for hair that defies the effects of time. www.rdr.link/HT030

The Cramer Color System by Kemon uses exclusive Shield Technology and coconut oil to achieve the full potential of each colour look.

The innovative Shield technology shields intermediates contained in the colouring cream.

These prevent the colour intermediates from oxidising prematurely. Coconut oil is a key ingredient that gives Cramer Color system a creamy texture that mixes instantly for fluidity and maximum coverage. www.rdr.link/HT031

Great Lengths has added three new decadent limited edition colours to its collection of over 80 colours ensuring the perfect colour blend and match for Great Lengths wearers everytime.

Added to the extensive colour range are three on-trend, subtle and sophisticated colours, Peach Blonde, Strawberry Blonde and Brown Rose. Each shade is available in both GL Tapes and Great Lengths keratin pre-bonded hair. www.rdr.link/HT032

La Biosthetique’s new Color Convert is an acidic colour stripper formulated with a Vitamin C and amino acid base for a simple and fast reduction of oxidative colour pigments without damaging the hair. The pre-treatment removes undesirable tones without changing the natural pigments in the hair. It’s simple and quick application makes it a great method to correct hair colour. www.rdr.link/HT033

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

CREATE WITH KERATIN Keratin Complex launches revolutionary Keratin-Enhanced Color line.

From the number one in smoothing treatments, a new and all-encompassing colour system is here to get your creative juices flowing. Keratin-Enhanced Color is powered by Keratin Complex’s Advanced Keratin Technology, Ceramides and BotanicalPowerblend, a formulation which restores, strengthens and improves the overall integrity of the hair while delivering rich reds, brilliant brunettes and high-lift, high-end blondes with exceptional grey coverage.

This complete system includes KeraLuminous Permanent Color, KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color and Graffiti Glam Semi-Permanent Color for healthy and beautiful hair whatever the desired look may be.

GraffitiGlam Semi-Permanent Color The Keratin-enhanced intense direct pigments in Graffiti Glam exemplify expressive and creative hair colour inspired by graffiti, a vibrant art form we can all admire.

KeraLuminous Permanent Color KeraLuminous Permanent Color is 100% oxidative colour that delivers rich, vibrant and predictable results.

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It improves the overall integrity of the hair.

Unique technology helps to reduce porosity for long-lasting and even colour.

Fully intermixable shades plus 000/Clear create an infinite array of vibrant colour results.

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KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color KeraBrilliant Demi-Permanent Color delivers limitless colour possibilities, maximum shine and brilliantly reflective results, all from an ammonia free formula.

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Advanced Keratin and Ceramide blend helps to fortify from within, reduce porosity and smooth the cuticle.

BotanicalPowerblend moisturises and nourishes while restoring strength to damaged hair.

Unique formulation increases moisture retention, creating a touchable, soft and silky texture.

The dynamic collection of 10 vibrant Semi-Permanent shades plus a Clear is designed to inspire you to unleash your creativity.

The Advanced Keratin and Ceramides help create a uniform canvas for bold, expressive colour or soft pastels.

The 10 shades plus Clear are available in a handy, portable pre-packed kit.

It’s a Blonde Thing Keratin Lightening System It’s a Blonde Thing is a conditioning, keratin-enhanced lightener that lifts and brightens while improving the integrity of the hair.

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Triple Protein Protection is a blend of keratin, collagen and silk amino acids that helps strengthen damaged hair.

Vitamin B5 nourishes, conditions and helps improve hair’s elasticity.

Unique formula turns from blue to white when processing is completed, allowing you to achieve more accurate results.

Keratin complex also offers a selection of keratin-enhanced aftercare products to help extend the life of hair colour.

Learn more at www.rdr.link/HT034

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