PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2024
ARE YOU
U READY? AWARDS
REGULARS
7First Word
8Headlines
10Meet the Winner
Professional Hairdresser of the Year
12Meet the Winner
Professional Independent Salon of the Year
14Education Memo
16Style Memo
18Just the Two of Us
Mark Leeson & Richard Darby
62Booked
Luke Benson’s diary
64The Design Edit. District Salon
66What’s…?
With Nicky Clarke OBE
BUSINESS
22The Trichology Trio
23Risky Business
With Sean Hanna
24Mind Your F***ing Business
With Adam Reed
27Improve Your Salon Business
With Melissa Timperley
SPECIAL
30The Budget Beyond Belief
Reactions and actions
COLLECTIONS
40Hooker & Young
44Indola x FHA Pioneers
48Darrel Starkey
52Bloom
FREELANCE FORUM
56Do the Maths!
Ruth Lundstrom
57Let’s Talk!
Sheila Abrahams MBE
58Space Age
Williams & Hirst
59Bossin’ It
Maddi Cook
PRODUCTS
60The Launchpad
Latest Products
IT’S ALL IN THE EDIT.
We’re back and bursting into 2025 with fresh features, shiny new contributors and perfectly polished pages.
A tremendous amount of thought goes into what we put on these pages to deliver the editorial content you deserve as hard-working hairdressers. We believe it is vital to provide you with a varied assortment of business, education, product knowledge and inspiration to help with all aspects of your hairdressing life.
In this issue, our ‘Budget Beyond Belief’ Special on page 30 is an essential read as we are fast hurtling towards that dreaded April start date! And to help with your basic business budgeting, expert Ruth Lundstrom embarks on a new series on page 56 where she will be ‘doing the maths’ with you –think simple sums that could make a huge difference to your business.
To help us maintain this high level of relevant content, we’d love to hear from you. Opposite, you will see an invitation to have your say in our Pro Hair Poll. It will only take a few minutes to take part, and you could be in with a chance of winning a Nicky Clarke AirStyle PRO hairdryer worth £249.99.
Enjoy the read!
@PROHAIRMAG Q @PROHAIRMAGWWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
Editorial Director
Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk
Assistant Editor
Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk
Digital Manager
Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk
HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY:MICHAEL YOUNG
Designer
Donna Booth
Group Production Manager
Carol Padgett
Production Assistant
Claire Swendell
Commercial Manager
Laura Jowsey ljowsey@hamerville.co.uk
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HEADLINES
Avengers Assemble!
Revlon Professional has announced its brand-new line-up of Ambassadors, Creative Artists and Advocates for 2025. Combining some of the most distinguished names in UK hairdressing, this roster of talent will lead Revlon in an all-new educational programme throughout the year. The team is made up of: Danilo Giangreco, Robert Masciave, Andrew Jose, Phil Smith, Erica
Nesbitt and Ashley Long.
Pantone Announces New Color of the Year
For 2025, the Pantone Color Institute has selected PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse as its Color of the Year. A warm, brown hue that offers feelings of comfort and indulgence, the colour is set to become a major colour trend for hairdressers throughout the year.
The Search Is On!
Offering the ultimate opportunity for four emerging talents to supercharge their hairdressing careers, Revlon Professional has launched its mentoring programme for this year: Visionaries Re:Mastered 2025. The scheme is open to all Revlon Professional salons and applications close Friday 28th February 2025.
Full competition details and the entry form can be found here: www.rdr.link/HBE001
Andrew Barton Amps Up Eduation
Andrew Barton’s ABLE, a VTCT endorsed education programme, is delighted to announce a new partnership with Manchester City College, the largest further education college in the UK. Developed to support budding stylists and the hairdressing industry through tackling the current skills shortage and the challenge of attracting a younger workforce, ABLE is a two-year training programme designed exclusively for further education hairdressing college departments.
Charity Gala Raises £18,000
The children’s hair loss charity, Little Lady Locks, recently held its second charity ball, Starlight Winter Gala, at Manchester’s Kimpton Clocktower. The evening raised over £18,000 to go directly to helping children suffering from hair loss. The 300-strong guests included many hairdressers throughout the UK who support the charity through hair donations and wig-making skills. To learn more or make a donation, visit: www.rdr.link/HBE002
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
Say Hello to Orange!
Goldwell has revealed its 2025 Color of the Year: Orange Glow. Evoking a sense of beauty and sophistication, the vibrant colour has been meticulously selected to capture the essence of 2025’s trends and express the dynamic spirit of this year. According to the brand, Orange Glow represents a perfect blend of exquisiteness, creativity, wellbeing and glamour.
NHBF Celebrates 89-Year-Old Hairdresser
The National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) has honoured Dora Fletcher, an 89-year-old hairdresser from Southport, for her outstanding commitment to the hairdressing industry. With a membership extending beyond 60 years and still remaining active in her salon, Dora’s Hair Fashions, she has set a new record for the organisation. Dora’s journey underscores the NHBF’s mission to champion the long-term career potential within the hairdressing profession and celebrate those who have dedicated their lives to the industry.
Andrew Barton: Group Brand Lead for Bloom Salons
Andrew Barton has further reinforced his partnership with Bloom Salons – headed up by Sheona Will – as he takes on the role of Bloom Group Brand Lead. With over three decades of hairdressing experience, Andrew will work with Sheona to create a consistent brand strategy, PR and marketing.
Darrel Starkey: Brand Specialist for Gold Fever
Gold Fever, the premium hair extension brand, has teamed up with Darrel Starkey, who has recently been awarded a trophy for his remarkable creations with hair extensions. In his new role, he will be providing education to stylists across the UK and creating exciting new digital content with Gold Fever’s range of hair extension methods.
Gina Conway: UK Brand Ambassador for Philip Martin’s
Philip Martin’s has announced Gina Conway, multi award-winning sustainable salon and spa owner, as its new UK Brand Ambassador. As a member of the Sustainable Beauty Coalition board –where she drives carbon-zero initiatives across the sector – Gina’s vision significantly aligns with the brand’s eco-conscious innovation.
Jamie Benny: Guest Artist for ALFAPARF Milano Professional
ALFAPARF Milano Professional has welcomed Jamie Benny, an award-winning hairdresser and owner of Benny & Co Hair Studios, as its newest Guest Artist. Having worked as an art director for some of the industry’s most renowned salons and brands for 18 years, Jamie is bringing his ‘Concept to Creation’ course to the ALFAPARF Milano Professional Academies in London and Dublin.
AITANA BONMATÍ: Global Ambassador for Revlon Professional
Revlon Professional introduces Aitana Bonmatí, the renowned female footballer, as the new Global Ambassador for its UniqOne hair treatment. The partnership is rooted in the shared values of UniqOne and Aitana: to inspire and empower women and girls worldwide.
MEET THE WINNER
OVER THE NEXT FEW ISSUES, WE WILL BE CATCHING UP WITH ALL OF OUR WINNERS FROM THE FIRST-EVER PRO HAIR AWARDS. LET’S MEET OUR FIRST TWO…
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2024: HOOKER AND YOUNG
SPONSORED BY
Established in 1995, Gary Hooker and Michael Young are the Founders and Co-Owners of Hooker & Young – an award-winning salon group in the North East of England. As one the most successful partnerships ever seen in British Hairdressing, Gary and Michael are internationally renowned for their inspirational stage shows, directional education and beautiful photographic work.
Their commitment to excellence in everything they do allows them to lead their award-winning team to recognition for their creative and business skills, delivering only the highest standards throughout their salons. Well-travelled and very much at home on international stages, the pair have showcased their artistry around the globe.
With careers spanning over several decades, the duo have notched up numerous awards cementing them firmly into the fabric of British Hairdressing. Now, as the current Professional Hairdresser of the Year, 2025 is set to go from strength to strength. Mentoring and guiding is close to their hearts, and they love nothing more than helping the next generation of hairdressers
Where have you put your trophy?!
It’s always pride of place, but it has moved around a little from salon to salon – right now, it’s at home on display.
What made you want to enter the first-ever Pro Hair Awards?
We have such a strong partnership with the Pro Hair team, and we LOVE the mag! It was so exciting to hear that the awards were happening, and we didn’t hesitate to enter!
How did you feel when your name was announced as the winner of Professional Hairdresser of the Year 2024? Seriously! It was such a shock! The finalist line-up was quite an illustrious list of names from the hairdressing industry, but all quite different I might add. You always hope for the best but expect the worst in these situations, so being announced as the winner was euphoric to say the least! And to be there with so many industry friends to celebrate, it was made all the more special.
What was your favourite takeaway from the night? When do the 2025 entries open??? Hahaha. There was so much love and camaraderie in the room – it felt so special.
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to enter the Pro Hair Awards next year?
What are you waiting for! These awards highlight and showcase professionalism within our industry. To be named a ‘Professional’ in your winning category is not only a massive personal achievement, but the best marketing tool for your business. It’s brilliant!
Do you have any exciting plans up your sleeve for the next year?
We have lots of exciting plans for 2025. Lots of photoshoots in the pipeline and a couple of international trips for the H&Y Art Team. It’s gonna be busy!
It’s obvious that you guys are at the top of your professional game, and winning this award definitely cements that. How have you managed to secure your place at the top for so long? What’s your secret? We’ve always been driven by creativity, which has ultimately led us and our team to award-winning success. At this stage in our career, giving back is so important to us. Being able to mentor and guide others to achieve their goals is so rewarding and a huge part of what drives us forward.
Hairdressing for over 20 years, Luke has amassed huge recognition and respect within the hairdressing industry globally. With a variety of award wins and accolades to his name, including London Hairdresser of the Year, Luke has a reputation as one of the industry’s leading talents. His imagery is beauty focused, with an edge that keeps it current and fashion forward, with strengths across both the hairdressing and male grooming industries.
Now a session stylist and salon owner, he focuses on working with brands, celebrities, editorials and red carpet styling, as well as education within the hair industry. Luke has worked with some huge stars throughout his career, including Billie Eilish, Liam Payne and Michelle Keegan. He has also created some iconic hair moments at both the BRIT Awards and film premieres, as well as being the stylist of choice for editorials such as Vogue, GQ and Men’s Health, and for brands including Dior, Mr Porter and Hugo Boss.
Opening his first salon, Luke Benson Hair, just under a year and a half ago, Luke has bought the feeling of a high-end, luxury London salon to the high street in the beautiful market town of Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire. Exuding a luxurious, modern feel with a boutique vibe, Luke Benson Hair was selected by the judges at the Pro Hair Awards 2024 as the first-ever recipient of the Professional Independent Salon of the Year Award.
What made you want to enter the first-ever Pro Hair Awards?
I think it’s so important to support each other in our industry, and my relationship and involvement with Pro Hair has been such a huge part of my career to date. There was no question that I wasn’t going to try and be a part of the new awards!
How did you feel when your name was announced as the winner of Professional Independent Salon of the Year 2024?
I couldn’t believe it! I was so proud and so excited, but mainly for my team. I was honoured to be a finalist for Hairdresser of the Year, but this meant more to me in a way because it was about the business and the mark that the salon has been making in its first year.
What was your favourite takeaway from the night?
I think everything was a success! Of course, winning was amazing, but the whole event was great. Seeing industry friends, networking and having a good time in a cool venue was also such a buzz.
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to enter the Pro Hair Awards next year?
Just go for it! There is nothing to lose, and even compiling your entry can be such a positive to see where you’ve come and what you’ve achieved in itself.
Do you have any exciting plans up your sleeve for the next year?
Just to keep pushing the growth of the salon and my team. I already have five shows abroad and education booked with Keune globally which is exciting too. And then, hopefully, getting back into some creative imagery as well…
We love that you won this award on the first anniversary of opening the salon! How has winning Professional Independent Salon of the Year 2024 impacted your business, your team and your clients?
The team and I are so proud and, of course, so are our clients. Being a new salon, these awards are great for our PR as it helps attract new clients in to see why we’re worthy of winning such a prestigious title.
Lastly… where have you put your trophy?! I carry it around everywhere with me!
PROFESSIONAL INDEPENDENT SALON OF THE YEAR 2024:
LUKE BENSON HAIR
MEET THE WINNER
EDUCATION
shadowed Carolyn Newman through her exclusive Be Your Best mentorship programme. As an international educator and award-winning colour expert with over 40 years in the industry, as well as the Senior Colour Director and Education Coordinator at Stil Salon in Chelsea, Carolyn strives to give back to the industry through offering up her time, free of charge, to support the future generation of hairdressers.
Do you want to win FREE expert training from an award-winning colour master?
SESSION 1: CONFIDENCE
In Autumn last year, Carolyn conducted her final two sessions with three trainees – Fran, Nicole and Tilly – from Melanie Richard’s Hair & Beauty, an award-winning Aveda and Great Lengths salon in Peterborough.
The aim of these classes was to challenge the girls’ creative skills and teach them how to be consistent with the client experience. “We focused on how to manage client expectations and the different ways of channelling inspiration to create new colour palettes and techniques,” Carolyn explains.
“The girls each presented two non-hair images that inspired their creativity in some way”, she continues. “From these images, they then drew a colourful pattern that was to be transformed into a real-life technique. I had precut three mannequin heads creatively in preparation, allowing the girls to create their bespoke colour palette to complement each haircut.”
This session works on building confidence on the basics of hairdressing, including everything from consultations to achieving the perfect style for every client.
SESSION 2: CREATE
This is the class to challenge your creativity. It will focus on how to introduce the optimum look to your clients through current salon trends and your own inspiration.
SESSION 3: CONSISTENCY
This will look at the A-Z of the client experience, teaching you how to use skills to ensure your clients return again and again.
EACH SESSION WITH CAROLYN HAS LEFT THE GIRLS ABSOLUTELY BUZZING AFTERWARDS! THEY HAVE LEARNT SO MANY ASPECTS OF COLOURING HAIR, AS WELL AS GROWING IN SELF-CONFIDENCE TOO. IT’S AMAZING WHAT A DIFFERENCE THREE DAYS HAS MADE TO THEIR ENTHUSIASM!
MELANIE AND RICHARD, MELANIE RICHARD’S HAIR & BEAUTY
Carolyn is on the lookout for her next two salons to train as part of her mentorship programme, completely free of charge, during 2025.
What does the training include?
• Carolyn will visit your salon or home studio and work with either your apprentices, assistants or your graduate stylists.
• There must be a minimum of two and maximum of five students, each with 1-2 years’ experience running a column.
• The programme consists of three sessions (Confidence, Create and Consistence), with each session taking place 2-3 months apart.
• The education will focus on: client care, professionalism, communication skills and delivering high-quality hair through colour, cuts and styling.
• A certificate will be awarded to each participant on completion of all three sessions.
What is the cost of the programme? The value of this mentorship is £4,500, but Carolyn is offering two salons the entire programme completely free of charge as part of this competition. (Any travel and accommodation costs will need to be covered by the salon if applicable).
If your salon is interested in winning free expert training, enter here: www.rdr.link/HBE003 Or via the link in our Instagram bio (@prohairmag)
memo STYLE
SS25 Trend Watch
Darrel Starkey
Like many of my industry peers, 2024 was a hard year, and I for one am excited to see what spring has to offer. For SS25, I’m predicting a lot of soft and effortless textures… something we’ve needed for a while!
You Glow, Girl!
Introducing Manda, a new, female-founded Norwegian brand created by hairdresser and yoga instructor, Cecilie Maria Torvik. Inspired by Cecilie’s great-grandmother, Manda – a woman known for her strong will and unique style in a time when women didn’t have the vote – the brand aims to empower users to feel connected to a tradition of quality and care.
With products including a Shampoo, Conditioner, Glow Mask, Styling Cream and Luxury Oil, Manda uses high-quality, natural ingredients, each designed by women, for women.
www.rdr.link/HBE004
This season, we’re going to see the rebirth of glossy glass hair. That ultra-sleek, polished look – think luxury and high class – will be a big hit as more clients turn their focus towards hair health. We will also continue to see a love for lived-in waves, really encouraging that beautiful, relaxed style that complements the natural transition into a new season.
For cuts, the Italian Bob with blunt lines and a chic, structured finish is going to be the must-have look of SS25. The short and defined lines will be a huge hit, creating a real head-turning style for short-haired clients.
Those looking to accessorise their hair will see curtain bangs are evolving into softer, grown-out versions for a breezy, effortless vibe. Again paying homage to the natural feel.
Overall, this new season is going to be all about combining richness with an undone, natural finish – polished, yet playful.
Mixing Up the Mullet!
Learn how to cut a pixie-styled mullet with Danny Malone:
Determine Length: Decide how long you want the back of the mullet to be. A classic mullet has a longer back, while a pixie mullet is shorter. Cut the Back: Start at the nape of the neck and cut the back section to your desired length. Use the point cutting technique (snipping the ends of the hair at an angle) to create texture and avoid blunt lines.
Cut the Sides: Use the same point cutting technique to create a soft, textured look. You can also use a clipper for a more dramatic contrast if desired.
Cut the Top: Use the technique to create layers and texture across the top. You can also create some longer pieces in the front for a more styled look.
Texturise: Use thinning shears or point cutting to add texture and remove bulk.
Check for Evenness: Make sure everything looks even and balanced. Trim any uneven areas as needed.
The Boys Are Back in Town!
As 2025 ushers in a new era of men’s grooming, Murdock London’s Creative Director, Miles Wood-Smith, is seeing a clear shift in the style preferences for male clients – one that blends classic tailoring with fresh, modern flair.
“The days of back-to-back skin fades are over!” Miles explains. “It seems male clients are now gravitating much more towards more tailored, versatile looks.”
With medium-length, messy styles to sleek, choppy mod cuts and timeless slick-backs seeming to dominate the shop floor already this year, these cuts offer a textured, natural feel that allow for more movement and individuality in the hairstyle. The right product is key to bringing these cuts to life, and for this trend, Miles points to Murdock’s Sea Salt range as a game-changer. “Our Sea Salt Spray and Volume Mousse give even fine, longer hair a burst of texture and volume, providing control for those who want to style with ease, whilst still maintaining a natural, lived-in look.”
But it’s not just about hair this year; beards are also undergoing a transformation. “We’re seeing a rise in shorter beards paired with more prominent moustaches,” Miles notes.
“To maintain the perfect facial hair balance, Murdock’s Beard Balm is my go-to. It tames those stray hairs and subtly styles the moustache, keeping everything neat and sharp.”
3 New Hair Services to Watch Out for in 2025 Nicole Petty
With trending hair treatments and services constantly emerging, it’s crucial for hair pros to stay ahead of the curve to meet clients’ evolving needs. To help stylists thrive in a competitive marketplace, Nicole Petty, hair expert at Milk & Blush, has revealed what we can expect to be popular in 2025…
Nanoplastia Treatments
Keratin treatments have been the go-to service for clients seeking frizz-free locks, but Nanoplastia and similar organic smoothing treatments seem to be setting a new standard this year. Instead of relying on formaldehyde or other harsh chemicals to achieve smooth hair, Nanoplastia uses a blend of amino acids, vitamins and proteins to repair broken bonds and restore strength to eliminate frizz.
Offering more nourishing treatments like this can help salons to meet the growing demand for services that prioritise hair health, without compromising results.
Personalised Scalp Care Services
Scalp care has become a major focus of maintaining healthy hair, with ‘Japanese Head Spas’ receiving millions of views on TikTok. Studies have found that the condition of your scalp can impact hair growth, so clients are now very interested in (quite literally!) getting to the root of their hair problems.
Providing treatments like exfoliating scalp scrubs or deep hydration can help clients address concerns about dandruff, dryness and build-up and even stimulate stronger hair growth.
Dimensional Balayage
Traditional balayage techniques have focused on surface-level highlights, but more dimensional techniques are becoming the go-to for a sophisticated and low-maintenance colour. By incorporating strategic colour placement and multiple tones, dimensional balayage techniques are ideal for clients wanting to add lowmaintenance depth to their locks. Anticipating this demand and ensuring stylists can offer these techniques can help salons attract new clients.
IN THIS SERIES, WE DELVE INTO THE DYNAMICS BEHIND SOME OF HAIRDRESSING’S MOST SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIPS. WHY ARE THE PROFESSIONAL AND PERSONAL ASPECTS OF THEIR RELATIONSHIP SO STRONG, AND WHAT ARE THE DAY-TO-DAY SECRETS THAT HAVE MADE THESE POWERFUL DUOS LAST THE DISTANCE…?
JUST THE OF US
Richard on Mark
MARK LEESON and RICHARD DARBY
We met in a local nightclub on New Year’s Eve. Mark was there looking cool in his Destroy outfit and beanie hat. The first thing I said to him was, “Have you got any hair underneath that hat?” And the rest is history.
I think what makes us work well together professionally is that we’ve got different looks on creativity; I can break things down and analyse them a bit more. In terms of our working relationship, we are also different in how we manage the team and how we deal with day-to-day stuff. It works well because we complement each other, but we are disparate in our strategies and theories. I’ve always said Mark is a creative genius, and the years have proven this right. He has got magic fingers.
Our biggest standout moment was Mark winning British Hairdresser of the Year. I had a real goal and passion to make sure that he got there, and obviously he did. Creating this monster 3000-square-foot salon has been another incredible achievement. It was a massive, massive change for us in terms of investment and our life. We’ve been 24/7 since June 1996, which is a hell of a long time! With that, comes frustrations, arguments and disagreements about different things. It obviously has an effect on home life as well as business life, and it’s a challenge to keep it all as smooth as possible, but we make it work.
Mark’s lucky really because he loves what he does, and I suppose that makes it a lot easier. He’s been doing hair for 40 years, and never, ever
faltered from it. His passion for the industry, even after 40 years, is still as strong as it was back then. Running a business, looking after a team and all the creative stuff that goes with it means there’s always something to do. We never really switch off, but, you know, I don’t necessarily mind. It’s just got to be done.
I think the secret to a good partnership is identifying each other’s strengths so that they are being utilised to the maximum and you’re not having crossovers. Definitely being patient and being able to listen are important too. When we have successes or celebrations, we’ll have a glass of champagne, but then we’re in bed –we’re not rock and roll like we used to be years ago!
We’re at the stage now that we have created a legacy. We always say to people, when you do a photoshoot, you are creating a bit of history, because that collection will always be around. Neither of us are getting any younger though –Mark will soon be 57, so who knows how long he will remain behind the chair – but we’ve both still got things that we want to do without question. And the creativity won’t stop. We’re still as excited about anything as we have always been, whether it’s education, a show or a shoot. The passion is still there, and we still put 120% into everything we do.
Mark on Richard
That night we first met, he knew I had hair because he’d seen me around town. For some reason, he just finally got the nerve to talk to me. My first impression of him was, ‘cheeky!’
After working for 12 years in the salon I was with, I was offered to take over as a franchise. That’s when we got our heads together and decided that we’d be great as a duo –with Richard doing the business and me doing the creative side. Sometimes, all he does is say, “no, no, no”, and I’ll say to him, “don’t just tell me no, tell me what is not right, or what you don’t like, and then I can work on it.” But it does work well in the way that his eye is different to mine, and Richard is good at unpicking things.
year was tough. And of course, not knowing the outcome. Watching Richard have to do the work, run the business with the team and take on all my customers, then he had to come home and look after me –yeah, that was tough.
Day to day, the thing we’re most likely to disagree on is what to have for dinner! Richard would have the same thing over and over again. Food shopping together does not work.
We don’t really fall out much over work, but I will admit, I sometimes have a ‘creative strop’ where I feel a lot of the creative pressure is on my shoulders. So I will have moments where I have a breakdown, and Richard will say to me, “just take yourself over to the mirror and have a word with yourself.”
Richard’s strength is leadership, but he leads with care at the same time. He takes people under his wing, and he likes to guide them on a career path and help them get wherever they want to be. We like to work together as a team, like a family, I suppose.
We saved up for 10 years to be able to achieve the salon that we’re in, and we put work first in front of our personal life. You know, we’re not in a big house or whatever, everything we’ve worked for has been planted back into the business.
Our biggest challenge was when I was ill. I couldn’t really do anything –usually, we work together on solving problems, but it was all out of my hands. Being out of practice for a
The thing that most drives me crazy about Richard is his office. It looks like a grenade has gone off in there! I have to close the door on it, but he swears he knows where everything is. He doesn’t delegate that well either, he likes to do it himself. I say, “you know, nobody’s going to do it 100% like you do it, but you have got to let go sometimes.”
There’s always something new that we’re looking at or something new that we’re creating. We’ve recently moved back to Goldwell, so we’ve got lots of ideas to give back to the industry, especially with our education. We’ve got to start planning the future, as in, what the next chapter is for us, personally. It’s quite exciting, but one day we will press the pause button.
QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS:
Who’s the bigger perfectionist?
Richard.
Who’s the chattiest?
Mark in the morning, Richard at night.
Who takes longer to get ready for a night out?
Richard.
Who is the hairdressing duo you most admire? Anthony and Pat Mascolo - everybody wanted to emulate the hair that they created at that moment in time.
If you two weren’t in the hair industry, what’s another job you could imagine doing together? We’d be running a restaurant, boutique hotel or florist. Or we’d be interior designers.
If you had to describe your partnership in three words, what would they be?
Strong, committed, exciting.
Coming soon –more on the
Mark Leeson is a name synonymous with glamorous, wearable hair. As one of global hairdressing’s biggest stars, both himself and his prolific Art Team have achieved huge success on home turf and internationally.
Since his distinctive style saw him scoop the coveted British Hairdresser of the Year trophy in 2014, Mark has picked up almost every other title going - including, most recently, International Hairdresser of the Year at the Australian Hairdressing Industry Awards (AHIA) and as Artistic Team of the Year at both the IHAs and BHAs.
An unstoppable force, Mark’s career began in the 1980s and sees him today running one of the country’s most prolific ‘super salons’. Mark Leeson Mansfieldoffers the ultimate hairdressing experience – a luxurious and tranquil setting in which clients can enjoy top-to-toe treatments, carried out in a space spanning over 3,000 square feet.
TOP MARK
AS MARK LEESON CELEBRATES 40 YEARS OF HAIRDRESSING, WE TAKE A LOOK BACK ON HOW HE CAME TO CREATE ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC HAIR BRANDS AROUND AND HIS NEW WITH
2003
2007
Mark made a name for himself early on in his career, sweeping the board as a competition hairdresser. This foundation gave him the dynamite coupling of technical skills and precision, which are still his hallmarks.
Mark’s journey has been with Co-Director Richard Darby at his side almost since the very start. Originally taking over a franchise, which they ran with huge success,
the pair branched out under the eponymous Mark Leeson brand in 1996. By the time Mark won the much-prized British Hairdressing Award in 2014, he’d notched up a truly outstanding track record of finalising for 32 British Hairdressing Awards and winning an incredible 14. Richard describes the win as "a dream he always knew was going to come true." The reason? Because "Mark is a creative genuis."
By Mark’s own admission, the hugely talented Artistic team are the backbone of the Mark Leeson brand - with each team member...
2008
...having won multiple honours in their own names too.
“We are 100 per cent team players at Mark Leeson,” says Mark. “We celebrate each and every success and believe in giving everyone an opportunity to shine.” Today, the team travel the world and fly the flag for British hairdressing.
As a team, they are known for their immaculately executed photographic collections, combining technical expertise with commercial appeal, and cutting-edge precision with flawless, feminine style. Under Mark’s guidance, they have created an entire brand with beautiful hair at its very heart.
“On behalf of Kao Salon Division and Goldwell, I want to extend our heartfelt congratulations to Mark on 40 incredible years in the hairdressing industry. Mark’s unwavering passion, creativity and commitment to excellence has made him a true icon. Our partnership with Mark over the years has been one of mutual respect and shared vision, and we are so proud to have had an incredibly strong relationship. Many congratulationshere’s to many more years of inspiring
Aside from the extraordinary creative mastery that defines the Mark Leeson brand, Mark’s philosophy is centred around training, education and opportunities. As well as the unparalleled Artistic team, an internal apprenticeship programme sees talent of the future progress under his discerning eye. Simply put, Mark says, “more than anything, I love nurturing and evolving people’s careers.”
2024 saw Mark reunite with Kao Salon Division as a Goldwell Ambassador for the UK and Ireland. As previous partners, Mark had already enjoyed a long-standing powerful partnership with Goldwell, and the brand and company always held a special place in his heart –not least because he was with Goldwell when he scooped his prized BHA crown. On his appointment, Mark commented:
“I’m very fortunate to have had the support and backing of some of the world’s most distinguished brands over the years and as most people will know, Goldwell is a name that is and has always been very close to my heart. Coming ‘home’ to Kao and Goldwell this year, as I mark four decades, feels like a very poignant move. The business has been there through some of my greatest triumphs, and I look forward to collaborating with the Kao and Goldwell family again as I embark on my next chapter.”
After 40 years, Mark is undeniably still at the top of his game. And there are no signs of easing off. When asked what’s next, he declares it’s about developing the team around him,
nurturing the talent under his roof and to keep pushing artistic boundaries.
“Creatively, we are always turning the wheel,” says Mark. “We’re always looking forward and we’ve continually got an eye out for the next big thing. I'd love to be crowned British Hairdresser of the Year again, and I want to carry on creating beautiful imagery that inspires other hairdressers and leaves our very own piece of history."
For more information about Goldwell products, services, business support and how to join its incredible salon community, visit goldwell.co.uk and follow @goldwelluki. #goldwell #iamgoldwell #peoplepoweredcolor
THE TRICHOLOGY TRIO
IN THE FIRST OF A NEW SERIES, THREE HAIRDRESSERS-TURNED-TRICHOLOGISTS USE THEIR HAIR AND SCALP EXPERTISE TO ANSWER SOME OF THE MOST COMMON QUESTIONS THEY FACE IN SALONS TODAY.
THIS MONTH, OUR EXPERTS DISCUSS THE TRAINING AND SETTING UP OF A CLINIC IN THEIR SALONS...
Steven Goldsworthy’sGoldsworthy, Swindon
I began my career at our family salon, quickly building a reputation through hairdressing competitions, then exploring opportunities in photography and live shows. By 2012, with my son and daughter fully engaged in the family business and concentrating on its creative direction, it was the perfect time to transition into a new focus and pursue trichology, an area I had long been passionate about.
Darren Fowler, Fowler35, London
With more than 30 years in the hairdressing industry, I’ve had the privilege of working both in the salon and on the global stage as an ambassador and educator for international brands.
Training as a trichologist felt like a natural extension of my psychology background, as well as my commitment to helping people look and feel their best. Today’s world places so much pressure on us all; there are so many factors visibly affecting my guests’ skin, scalp and hair, which can then take a toll on their self-confidence. By pursuing trichology, I’ve gained deeper insights and tools to support and educate my guests, helping them address underlying causes and regain a sense of vitality.
The training is a significant investment, both in terms of cost and time, and it’s more than just completing the course. True expertise requires ongoing education –continually updating your knowledge on the latest sciences, treatments and advancements. For those serious about trichology, the initial training is only the beginning of a lifelong journey of learning and adapting.
My interest in the science of hair made trichology a natural next step, and I chose the Institute of Trichologists to train as it has a great reputation in trichology education.
Returning to academic study, however, definitely presented its own challenges! Not only did I need to master the complex subject matter, but I also had to reacquaint myself with modern learning techniques and presentation standards – it had been a long time since I sat exams at school!
The training itself was rigorous (as you’d expect when dealing with primarily medical issues), and the curriculum covered everything from anatomy to mathematics. I completed a two-year course of distance and academy learning and then progressed from Associate (AIT) to Member of the Institute (MIT) over an additional two-year mentorship. I am now a Board Director at the Institute of Trichologists, helping to shape the future of this field.
In the Swindon salon, I have a dedicated office and private mini-salon for trichology clients, providing one-hour appointments to thoroughly assess their concerns and create tailored treatment plans. Trichology complements my work in hairdressing seamlessly, and it has been a great addition to our salon business.
In our salon, trichology is woven into every aspect of our services. Guests now fly in from all over the world to experience a more educated consultation through hair and scalp analysis, as well as a chance to regain confidence through a look tailored to their unique needs. We design bespoke treatment plans and carefully monitor results, embodying our philosophy of helping guests build confidence through visual identity.
Rob Eaton, Russell Eaton, Leeds and Barnsley
I’ve been involved in the family business since I was 16 years old, and I’ve always loved every aspect of the industry and salon life. I’ve entered and won many awards, mentored young people and presented live shows in front of hundreds of hairdressers.
I initially got interested in trichology as I was seeing clients coming into the salon experiencing hair loss and I wanted to understand more about why it was happening and how I could help them. I had been working with wigs and hair pieces for several years with clients suffering from chemo hair loss, so becoming a trichologist was a natural
The training took place over two years with the Institute of Trichologists, followed by two more years of mentorship – it was intense! It was hard trying to fit it around clients and running a business, but the cost and investment in myself was important. There are some crossovers in the skillsets – such as knowing how to cut and style wigs –but having a hair consultation is very different to a trichology consultation. It has to be private, you have to be empathetic, and it can be quite emotional.
I will always love the creative side of my job, but I am also enjoying my clinic days in the salon. For me, it’s ultimately about becoming more knowledgeable, and developing myself in the industry is now a really fulfilling part of my job.
RISKY BUSINESS
WE OFTEN HEAR PEOPLE SAY THAT STARTING A BUSINESS IS RISKY, BUT IS THIS REALLY TRUE? IS IT POSSIBLE TO MAKE A SERIOUS AMOUNT OF MONEY WITHOUT TAKING ON A LOT OF RISK? IN A NEW SERIES FOR , WHO BUILT HIS OWN MULTI MILLION-POUND SALON GROUP, SHEDS SOME LIGHT ON THE ROLE THAT RISK PLAYS ON THE ROAD TO BUSINESS SUCCESS.
How is your appetite for taking risks?
We are all made up differently; some of us are more comfortable taking risks from early on in life (our parents would probably call this stupidity!). Doing something when we don’t know the outcome in advance can be dangerous –diving off a ledge into the sea without knowing how deep the water is, for example. Some consequences can even be fatal, but kids do these types of things all the time.
When it comes to business, we potentially step into a situation without knowing the outcome. We risk our time, our energy and, of course, our money (or someone else’s money) entering into a project and we risk losing it all.
Is it always a risk when starting a business?
Starting a business inherently involves risk, whether it’s financial, operational or strategic. Of course, this stops many people from starting the business in the first place, even if it’s their desire to do so. What if I lose all my money? What if I lose my home? What if I look stupid? What if it fails? What if I can’t do it? These are all thoughts that might pass through our minds when we think about starting a new business.
How do we mitigate risk?
The common-sense approach to dealing with risk is to try and take away as many of the unknowns as possible. This means doing appropriate research and learning as many relevant skills as we can. Starting a business in hairdressing, first and foremost, involves learning to be a good hairdresser, however, the skills required for running a business are entirely different. When learning to be a hairdresser, it’s unlikely that you will learn how to put together a realistic business plan, a cashflow forecast or even produce a
“Investing
time into gaining as many of the required skills as possible is well worth it and, of course, helps to mitigate the risks. However, once it’s time to light the fuse, so to speak, there will always be an element of risk. It’s important to know the difference between ‘gung-ho stupidity’ and calculated risk.”
simple P&L. Yet these things are essential if you want to increase the chances of your business being a success.
Investing time into gaining as many of the required skills as possible is well worth it and, of course, helps to mitigate the risks. However, once it’s time to light the fuse, so to speak, there will always be an element of risk. It’s important to know the difference between ‘gung-ho stupidity’ and calculated risk.
What has age got to do with it?
Most people have a declining appetite for risk; the older they get, the less risk they are comfortable with. In terms of business, this is quite noticeable. If you start a business in your twenties, losing ‘everything’ still gives you lots of time to recover.
As people get older, it gets harder. It’s hard to put your house on the line when you are married, have a mortgage and two children to put through school. The closer you get to retirement age, the more unlikely you are to risk ‘everything’ as it’s more improbable that you could rebuild your wealth if your business fails.
No risk, no gain...
Ultimately, it’s rare for someone to achieve business or financial success without significant risk. Most of us who have built large businesses have, at some point, had to put pretty much everything on the line – borrowing money and using all our existing assets, including our home, as collateral to raise the capital needed to get our dream off the ground.
Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose; there are no guarantees. Dealing with failures along the way is actually part of the growth process. Remember, people who are unwilling or unable to take the big risks are unlikely to have the big gains.
MIND YOUR
HAVING MADE A NAME FOR HIMSELF THROUGH A MIXTURE OF SALON, SESSION AND EDITORIAL WORK, ADAM REED IS ONE OF LONDON’S MOST IN-DEMAND STYLISTS. AS A BIG ADVOCATE FOR OPENING UP ON THE ISSUES AROUND MENTAL HEALTH, PRO HAIR IS PRIVILEGED TO HAVE ADAM SHARE HIS EXPERIENCES AND KNOWLEDGE WITH US IN A NEW SERIES FOR 2025.
A lot of people ask me, ‘how have you got to where you are in your career?’ and my response is always, ‘don’t look at what I’ve done, but listen to how I would do things differently’. For me, it’s all about understanding your mind and identifying what you need around you. As somebody who has struggled with mental health, it’s so important to see this conversation opening up. In this new series, I’m going to be talking about how to navigate running a business with a neurodivergent mind and sharing the methods that have helped me and will hopefully help you too.
Much of what I do is around the number seven, which is a really levelling number for me. There are seven key principles that I believe will allow you to be mindful of managing a better business, so over the course of the next few issues, we will delve a little deeper into each of them. Do I do these things religiously? Categorically no (my head doesn’t allow it!), but being mindful has been a great step towards making a difference for myself, my team and my business.
1
HEADCARE
Top of the list is looking after your HEAD. There are so many things that swirl around in our heads, everything from the practical to the emotional –there is stress, there is anxiety, there is excitement, there is creativity –and looking after your head is key to managing all those elements. A lot of those feelings can feel the same and, for a long time, I didn’t differentiate between excitement and anxiety, or excitement and stress – add to that a creative force and some hyper-focusing, and you’re on the road to burnout! Every head is different, so you need to understand how your head works above all else... only then can you begin to look after it.
2
TIMING
My 7 Signs of Happy
1. Laughing –releases positive thoughts.
2. Walking –to clear your mind + get fresh air.
3. Stimulation management –is coffee good for you?
4. Sound management –listen to happy music.
5. Surround yourself with your people.
Managing your time wisely is another big thing. For me personally, understanding time blindness has been a total game-changer. Many people who suffer from ADHD or neurodiversity are continuously late, but I’m the opposite! My time blindness means I cannot wear a watch – it causes me so much anxiety – and I am hyper aware of being punctual. Sleep is also super important, and being in bed early is absolutely key to me being way more productive and less anxious. I always ask for breakfast meetings instead of socialising in the evenings, and my boundaries sit hard on that. If I need to be out late, I have to put that into my time management. I find the exhaustion is just so bad for my own head care. When I’m tired, I’m a nightmare – for myself and for everybody else.
6. Read a book –an actual book.
7. Sleep–sleep is always important.
PEOPLE
3
Teamwork makes the dream work. Respect, honesty, having the right people around you and being able to talk about your strengths and weaknesses without being embarrassed is vital. For such a long time, neurodiverse people were shamed for the things that we don’t do very well, and we would see it as a real negative. But knowing your vulnerabilities is not a negative; it’s
F***ING
BUSINESS
all about working with people’s strengths for a bigger picture. I often say, ‘no man is an island’ and what you’ll find is that most successful entrepreneurs and creatives will have immensely talented teams around them. My biggest mistakes in business have been not caring for my head and having the wrong people around me.
WORK WISER, NOT HARDER
Seek advice, take advice and understand your value. I am not a believer that ‘time is money’; I think if you are continuously viewing things in monetary terms, you’re working towards the wrong goal. If you work wiser, then the money will eventually come. I thought money grew on trees for a long time, which is an absolute nightmare for someone who is neurodiverse. Ultimately, having value in yourself is key. I do struggle with this one, because even if somebody says I’ve done something well, I’ll question why they’re saying it. It’s all about being more mindful of how to effectively work towards your goals, both for yourself personally, and for the bigger picture.
PLANNING
Planning is key. Somebody who is neurodiverse may not always stick to that plan, but it’s much easier to build flesh on bones; strong foundations come from good plans. Somebody who’s neurotypical can stick to a plan, whereas somebody who is neurodiverse will go around and around. It’s exhausting! So again, that goes back to having the right people to keep you focused and on track. I struggle with too much structure, but all of us need some element of it - having a rough plan is better than having no plan at all!
GOALS
striving, and it allows you to refocus more easily. I am so easily distracted, but having goals keeps me structured and focused.
BE YOURSELF
Join the conversation with Adam on social media at Adam Reed Mind Your Business: #ARMYB 4 5 6 7
For somebody who is neurodiverse, it’s the goal element that makes it easier to stick to your plans. It’s quite fundamental, but you need to timeline those goals. Whether that is for a day, a week, a month, six weeks or six months, a goal means you are continuously
“It’s easy to listen to what everybody says and look at what other people are doing and get caught up in comparison. It’s like society has told us where we should be, but somebody who’s neurodivergent will never be able to sit within those conventions.”
Be yourself and know who you are. It’s easy to listen to what everybody says and look at what other people are doing and get caught up in comparison. It’s like society has told us where we should be, but somebody who’s neurodivergent will never be able to sit within those conventions. You need to have people guiding, nurturing and mentoring you who really know you. When you are transparent and share your true self, it can only work out for the better.
If you are struggling with your mental health, please start a conversation with someone you trust or seek professional advice. Knowing that there are places to talk is key. MIND is an incredible place for help and support. They have some incredible resources on their website: https://www.mind.org.uk/, plus an infoline and a number you can call for emergency advice.
Each issue, I will be sharing my own personal happiness hacks and mood-boosting mindful tricks that help me. First up, scan this QR code for the perfect pick-me-up playlist. I hope you like it!
IMPROVE YOUR SALON BUSINESS:
THE THREE CS
MELISSA TIMPERLEY IS THE MULTI AWARD-WINNING FOUNDER OF THE MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALON IN MANCHESTER AND THE CREATOR OF MT MASTERCLASS, A COMPREHENSIVE PRECISION CUTTING EDUCATION PROGRAMME. IN THIS NEW SERIES, MELISSA SHARES HER EXPERIENCE TO HELP ELEVATE YOUR SALON BUSINESS, KICKING OFF WITH INSIGHTS BASED ON THE LETTER ‘C’…
Cutting
As hairdressers, haircuts are literally our ‘bread and butter’, but are you truly maximising your cutting potential when it comes to salon profits? From a business point of view, haircutting services cost far less than colouring, in terms of both time and resources. The simple truth is, you can make a lot of money if you can cut hair really well. A haircut that grows out well makes a client’s life much easier, helping you to build a loyal clientele and earning you more money in the long run too.
If you’re not challenging yourself to be better at cutting, be prepared for your clients to look elsewhere. A commitment to learning demonstrates to customers that you take pride and passion in your work AND that you value their business. From a business perspective, having the confidence to tackle any head of hair that sits in your chair is priceless.
Do you really want to turn business away because you struggle with certain requests? Perhaps layers are your nemesis? Or maybe you’ve never mastered curly hair cuts? As a professional, the client relies on you to have the answers to their questions, so make it your mission to remain at least one step ahead or you risk losing their trust.
I created MT Masterclass education to address the gaps within hairdressing training. Our precision cutting app is free to download and includes video tutorials on dozens of cuts, plus sectioning patterns, styling tips and tool recommendations. Subscribing to the ‘access all areas’ version costs less than a weekly coffee, and it can help you to regain your confidence when it comes to cutting.
Client Care
For me, client care in the 2020s goes way beyond a scalp massage and refreshment menu (although these are obviously essential too!). Any salon business operating today should strive to be as inclusive as possible to ensure that any potential clients feel welcome. For me, inclusivity means that hair is hair – no matter the gender or the
“If you’re not challenging yourself to be better at cutting, be prepared for your clients to look elsewhere. A commitment to learning demonstrates to customers that you take pride and passion in your work AND that you value their business.”
hair type. At my Manchester salon, we offer a safe space that allows hijabs to be removed in private, as well as silent appointments for anyone that doesn’t wish to engage in conversation. We are wheelchair accessible, and our appointments are priced according to time taken, rather than gender.
As a salon owner, I want to inspire other salon owners to take some small actions that can really make an impact. I can’t imagine informing a client that we don’t ‘do’ their hair type – as an industry, we really must try harder to embrace diversity and challenge ourselves to do better.
Content Creation
If you’re not using social media to attract potential clients and opportunities for growth, ask yourself why?
Platforms such as Instagram and TikTok allow you to showcase your business with zero cost. Of course, creating content can feel daunting if you’re not sure what you’re doing, but a good starting point is to think of your Instagram grid as a ‘window’ into your business. This is your way of speaking to potential clients, so show off your best work, your points of difference and your strengths as a brand.
Remember, you don’t need to do clever transitions or lip syncing; find a style that you feel confident with and get the basics right to begin with. Check that your lens is clean, shoot your work in good light with a clean/neutral background (or invest in a ring light and tripod), and record in high resolution. And don’t just stick to hair transformations – show off your salon space, highlight your retail products or talk about your service menu. I love to see those glimpses into real salon life too, like the consultation process or team camaraderie. Instagram loves authentic content right now, so don’t overthink it.
Oh, and when you’re capturing content, always check that any clients in the salon are happy to be filmed! Make sure you’re sensitive to what you are filming too - no one wants to be captured pouring their heart out to their colourist in the background of your fringe-trim timelapse!
Untamed Creativity
brilliant edge to professional colour.
Revolutionising the possibilities of creative colour services and giving stylists even more versatility to meet their clients’ imaginative colour aspirations, Indola has extended its Crea-Bold line to include three new, ready-to-use shades:
Neon Tangerine: For vibrant, electrifying results.
Deep Purple:
To add depth and richness to darker bases or bold, vibrant tones to lighter bases.
Noir:
Perfect for colouring dark bases, refreshing coloured black hair or darkening existing shades for muted tonal directions.
Mix ‘n’ Match
The new shades are a significant addition to Indola’s Crea–Bold range, featuring intermixable direct dyes designed for radiant, highshine results. The semi-permanent colours last up to 15 washes (or eight washes for Pastel Lavender) and can be applied directly or softened with Indola Color Treatment for a more subtle effect.
The Sky’s the Limit
The Crea-Bold line empowers stylists to explore an infinite spectrum of colours while delivering exceptional results tailored to their clients’ needs. With
To find out more about the new Crea-Bold line from Indola, visit: www.rdr.link/HBE005
Key Features:
Customisable Mixing Options:
Combine with Noir for muted, sophisticated tones or pair with the Indola Color Treatment for pastel, delicate results.
Extra Conditioning and Nourishment: Achieve unparalleled shine and care when used with the Indola Color Treatment.
True-to-Tone Longevity:
Enjoy up to 15* washes of vibrant, trueto-tone colour fading without unwanted undertones.
* 8 washes for Pastel Lavender
Vegan Formula:
Cruelty-free and sustainable, aligning with modern client values.
Creative Support for Stylists: The extension includes a dedicated overview of the creative mixes, inspiring and guiding stylists in creating bespoke results.
The Budget Beyond Belief
Following the announcement of the Labour Government’s Autumn Budget at the end of last year, we spoke to hairdressing experts across the country to find out how your business can brace itself for the coming changes...
What Does the Autumn Budget Mean for UK Salons?
The UK Autumn Budget 2024 has introduced some major changes that could impact the financial stability of small businesses, including hair and beauty salons. With increased employer costs and other economic shifts, finding practical solutions to offset these expenses is more important than ever. We spoke to the eco-friendly, disposable towel brand, Easydry, to find out the key impacts this change will have on UK salons:
Employer National Insurance Increase: From April 2025, employer National Insurance contributions will rise by 1.2%, reaching 15%. For salons, where payroll makes up a significant part of expenses, this increase adds up quickly. Although smaller businesses will benefit from an increased Employment Allowance, many salon owners will still feel the financial impact.
Higher National Minimum Wage: The National Minimum Wage is set to rise by 6.7%, reaching £12.21 per hour for adults over 21. While this is great news for workers, it’s another challenge for salon owners who may need to reassess staff hours or hiring plans to manage the extra costs.
Operational and Business Expenses: Other potential costs include high fuel prices and limited relief on business rates. These can further strain salon budgets, especially for those operating on tight margins.
The budget really is destroying our industry! Salons are averaging only 5% net profit, unless they’re very diligent (or lucky!), and it’s going to make it even more difficult for everyone to continue with an employed business model. As a business owner, I’m not a fan of a self-employed salon as I like to have control of the outgoings and the standards that we have built, as well as the hours that my team are in salon. I really think this is going to kill the industry – salon owners will be forced to close businesses because they don’t have the energy or motivation to try any harder. It already feels like a lot of work for no return.
JACK KILPATRICK OWNER OF JKP HAIRSPA
TIPS FOR SALON OWNERS TO BEAT THE BUDGET
Running a salon on a tight budget is now more challenging than ever. However, with smart, efficient business strategies, there are growing ways to reduce costs without compromising on quality. We sat down with Business and Wellness Coach, Sonia Magnier, to learn how you can maximise your profitability.
STREAMLINE INVENTORY AND SUPPLIERS
1 2 3 4 5
• Monitor Inventory Closely: Avoid over-ordering by keeping a lean inventory and using tracking software to know exactly what’s on hand.
• Negotiate with Suppliers: Establish strong relationships with suppliers, negotiate discounts or explore bulk purchasing options for essential products to save on costs.
OPTIMISE STAFFING AND SCHEDULING
• Flexible Scheduling: Match staffing levels to peak and off-peak hours, ensuring you aren’t overstaffed during slower times.
• Cross-Train Employees: Train staff to handle multiple roles so they can assist in various tasks or step in when another employee is out.
• Use Part-Time or Freelance Staff: For busy periods, consider part-time or freelance stylists to reduce full-time labour costs.
ENHANCE CUSTOMER LOYALTY PROGRAMMES
• Encourage Referrals: Offer incentives for clients who bring in friends or family.
• Create a Loyalty Programme: Reward regular customers with discounts or exclusive perks.
• Upsell and Cross-Sell: Train staff to suggest complementary services or products to clients.
INCREASE ENERGY EFFICIENCY
• Switch to LED Lighting: LEDs offer brightness with far less energy consumption and longer lifespan than traditional bulbs.
• Minimise Water and Heat Waste: Use water-saving faucets and consider a programmable thermostat to reduce heating costs.
• Unplug Equipment When Not in Use: Power down all equipment at night and unplug items that don’t need to be continuously running.
FOCUS ON AFFORDABLE MARKETING STRATEGIES
• Leverage Social Media: Showcase your work on Instagram, Facebook or TikTok to reach potential customers with minimal or no cost.
• Encourage Client Reviews: Positive online reviews can greatly influence potential clients.
• Partner Locally: Collaborate with nearby businesses for cross-promotions. A nearby café could offer discounts to your clients and vice versa, for example.
Immediate Action from the NHBF
Since the announcement of the Autumn Budget, The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) moved swiftly to represent sector concerns and demonstrate sustained engagement with senior government officials through a series of high-level meetings.
CONTINUED GOVERNMENT ENGAGEMENT
In an ongoing dialogue with key decision makers, the NHBF has participated in two signif icant government meetings:
1.An initial meeting with the Secretary of State for Business and Trade, Jonathan Reynolds, and the Exchequer Secretary to the Treasury, James Murray, to address immediate budget concerns.
2.A follow-up roundtable discussion with Gareth Thomas MP, Minister for Services, Small Businesses and Exports, and his team, marking the second productive engagement with the Minister since the new government.
STRATEGIC INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION
During the roundtable meeting, which included other leading sector organisations, the NHBF focused on:
• Presenting analysis and case studies of the Budget’s impact.
• Identifying specific challenges facing the sector going forward, particularly for employers and the affordability of taking on apprentices.
• Proposing potential solutions to support industry recovery and growth, including VAT.
Caroline Larissey, NHBF Chief Executive, commented: “These constructive discussions with Jonathan Reynolds and Gareth Thomas demonstrate the government’s recognition of our sector’s significance. We presented clear evidence of the challenges our members are facing following the budget announcements and proposed practical solutions to support the sector. While there is still work to be done, these meetings represent important steps forward in our ongoing dialogue with the government to secure meaningful support for our sector.”
“Liverpool’s spirit of resilience has rubbed off on me. When facing the consequences of the Autumn Budget, I’ve tried to focus my attention on the things I can control; rather than getting bogged down by larger economic trends, I’m concentrating on small, impactful changes within the salon.
One strategy is to subtly upsell treatments to existing clients. By offering additional services like conditioning toners or in-salon treatments, we can boost the average bill without significantly increasing the client’s cost. These treatments are high-profit-margin services that directly benefit both the stylist and the salon. With an average of 200 clients per quarter per stylist, a modest £10 increase per client can have a substantial impact on our bottom line given we have four amazing stylists.
Our clients, in my experience, are adaptable. They understand the pressures of rising costs better than most, and thanks to the strong relationships my team and I have built, they’re willing to work with us. I remain deeply committed to our salon model, which prioritises team connection and job security. By focusing on these micro-adjustments, we can navigate the challenging economic climate and ensure the continued success of our salon.
PHILL GALLAGHER OWNER OF DOT HAIR
Why Financial Literacy Should Matter to Salon Owners
Sophia Hilton, founder of not another salon
Financial literacy – or rather the lack of it – remains one of the biggest unspoken challenges in today’s workplace. With the new Budget changes in mind, money management is now more important than ever…
For many, the blame lies with a system that failed to teach basic money management skills. Parents may have lacked the knowledge to guide us and schools may have chosen to prioritise equations over real-life budgeting. Now, in adulthood, poor money management isn’t just a personal problem; it often spills over into the workplace, impacting businesses in ways many owners don’t anticipate.
Salon owners may argue it’s not their job to help their team manage their finances –and technically, they’re right –however, when financial stress affects performance, customer service and team morale, it becomes impossible to ignore.
The Hidden Cost of Financial Stress
When employees struggle with money, the effects often seep into their work. Financial stress can drain morale and disrupt team dynamics, creating tension on the shop floor. It can also lead to a drop in productivity – not because your staff aren’t trying, but because the mental toll of financial strain leaves them overwhelmed.
You might expect that someone facing financial hardship would be motivated to work harder, but often the opposite is true. A sense of hopelessness takes over, and this can create a cycle of absenteeism (being off), reduced performance and even staff turnover. Constant pay rise requests or employees leaving in search of higher salaries become common when they believe earning
more is the only solution. Unfortunately, their financial worries can quickly become your business challenges.
Recognising Financial Struggles
It’s not always obvious when someone is struggling, but there are telltale signs. Life changes often bring financial instability – moving out for the first time, breakups, becoming a parent or dealing with illness. Pay attention to repeated questions about payday or requests for wage advances; these can indicate deeper issues.
Knowing what’s happening in your team’s personal lives (within professional boundaries) helps you spot potential struggles early. While it’s not your role to manage their finances, understanding their challenges can position you to offer support where appropriate.
Addressing the ‘Leaky Bucket’
For salon owners, endless pay rises aren’t realistic in today’s economic climate. If you’re constantly dealing with financial issues without addressing the root cause, it’s like pouring water into a bucket with a hole in it. Fixing the leak doesn’t mean taking on their financial burdens; it means equipping them with the tools to succeed.
Your Role as a Leader
Your responsibility isn’t to fix your employees’ financial problems, but to provide the resources and environment for them to take control of their money. Start by having open conversations about financial literacy. Offering tools like budgeting worksheets, financial management webinars or access to experts can empower your team to develop the skills they need.
It’s crucial, however, to set boundaries. Over-involvement can backfire (I have over-parented my team far too much in the past) creating dependency or resentment. Instead, think of yourself as a guide –you’re providing opportunities, not telling them what to do.
The Role of Workplace Culture
Think you are the role model of the salon? Think again. It’s often a senior stylist or influential team member that might be shaping the team’s financial behaviours without you realising it. Are they encouraging smart spending or encouraging a ‘live in the moment’ approach and getting in debt. Has that culture become normalised?
Likewise, you’ve got to look in the mirror and evaluate your own management practices. Is your salon overly KPI-driven, with a culture that values money above all else? Have you made your team money obsessed, but not in a good way?
Lead by Example
As a leader, your actions set the tone. If you want your team to build healthy financial habits, you have to demonstrate them yourself! By prioritising financial literacy and stability, you create a workplace culture that supports everyone’s wellbeing.
Take the Next Step
Helping your team improve their financial skills doesn’t have to be scary. By integrating financial literacy tools into your workplace, you can create a culture that supports smarter financial choices.
I think the Budget will make it almost impossible for most employers to take on apprentices, as it will be so expensive. As a salon owner, the higher National Insurance contributions will increase my outgoings for staff by around 10 to 15% per employee, without them seeing any increase in their pay. I’m having to look at reducing my support staff to ensure the salon is still profitable. This feels like such a last resort for me as I believe that a good support team is essential to maintain our standards of customer service. Additionally, the removal of the business rate relief for our premises is going to have a knock-on effect. It’s going to be so hard to maintain the profit margins that the salon needs to keep growing.
JACK KILPATRICK, OWNER OF JKP HAIRSPA
How can Hairdressers Hit Back at Rising Costs?
LUKE Doolin, COUNTRY MANAGER UKI at PHOREST SALON software
The recently announced Budget by the Labour government poses significant challenges for the hair and beauty industry, particularly with the rise in National Insurance and National Minimum Wage. These measures disproportionately affect our labour-intensive industry, with salons facing massive cost increases in 2025.
This decision suggests there may be gaps in the government’s understanding of the unique needs and realities of our sector. The hair industry’s reliance on apprenticeships and its role in training the next generation is now under threat. A study conducted by The Salon Employers Association found some pretty daunting statistics, with 95% of salons that employ apprentices saying that they will either reduce the number of apprentices they have, not take on any more apprentices or have already made apprentices redundant. They also found that 42% of respondents are now considering closing their business in the next 12 months.
This Budget jeopardises the future of skilled hair and beauty professionals and salon owners across the country. It could lead to a significant shift in employment models, with more salons changing business models as a necessity rather than a choice.
While these challenges are daunting, there are immediate actionable steps salons can take now to safeguard their businesses:
1
Identify
Growth Areas Within Your Salon
Many salons are understandably considering cost-cutting measures, but it’s crucial to balance this with strategies for growth, so focusing on the right things is key. Data from Phorest’s hair salons in the UK highlights two critical areas for improvement in 2025: Retail and New Clients.
2
Reevaluate Pricing Structures
For too long, salons have undervalued their exceptional services. The rising costs may force salons to increase their prices, but this can also be framed as a necessary step to reflect the value and quality of their offerings. Properly communicating these changes to clients is essential for maintaining loyalty.
3
Invest in Innovative Cost-Cutting Strategies
Tools like Vish offer intelligent colour management solutions that help salons reduce waste and optimise product usage. By accurately tracking colour formulas and inventory, salons can decrease product costs and enhance profitability. Similarly, switching to sustainable disposable towels, such as those offered by Easydry, can eliminate the expenses associated with laundering traditional cotton towels.
Unite as an Industry
4
It’s time for the industry to rally together. By working as one, leveraging technology and advocating for our industry, we can weather this storm. Let’s unite to ensure the hair and beauty sector remains a vibrant, thriving part of our communities. Whether it’s through local councils, industry federations or apprenticeship initiatives, we must demand recognition and support for the vital role we play.
How the Budget is Threatening the Future of Hairdressing
Nancy Stripe, Pro Hair Client consultation of the Year 2024 Winner
I opened my studio, Stripe Colour Studio, three years ago. We were fresh out of the pandemic, and I was naïve about what it actually takes to run a successful business. My dream was to host a space for like-minded colourists who wanted to chair rent, whilst covering my running costs and giving myself the space to educate and run my column freely. I knew I wanted to train up apprentices, but I hadn’t really thought about being an employer.
Fast forward to now, and training the apprentices has been the most satisfying part of my career. I now have a graduate stylist on the floor as well as a second-year apprentice, plus a new assistant starting in summer too. Three employed staff members in, and the looming Budget suddenly looks like a whole new landscape. Apprentices need time after qualifying
to grow into the stylists they are capable of being, and that takes nurturing through employment.
Working out the figures on how much extra I’ll be paying from April, I would say it could be anywhere from £750-£1000. It’s not just rises in wages, but higher National Insurance contributions and no help towards the crippling energy bills. I’ll have to raise prices throughout to cover this cost, be lean-efficient within the business and the things I wanted to invest in for the salon will have to wait for now.
One thing I refuse to give up on is the apprentices. They deserve a living wage just like the rest of us, but when I first opened in 2021, we were getting £3000 funding incentives from the Covid scheme
towards their education and it gave me so much breathing room.
Good employers carve time out to ensure that future talent becomes the very best, and there is nothing better than seeing these young people flourish. Our salon is at full capacity and yet footing the bill for all the incoming rises to businesses is suffocating, what about the salons who are already struggling? I’m afraid this area will be the first to go for them, and then what happens to the heart of our industry in years to come?
The budget is going to force even more salons into self-employment models, as they really will have no choice. However, without apprentices, the talent pipeline dries up – where does that leave the future of our industry?
Facing the Budget: Optimism or Outright Dread?
The Autumn Budget has landed, and like many in our industry, I find myself caught between cautious optimism and outright dread.
The increase in employer National Insurance Contributions (NICs) from 13.8% to 15%, coupled with the reduced threshold for payments, is a significant financial strain for salon owners like me. These changes mean higher costs for every member of my team, directly affecting our ability to expand, hire or even maintain current staffing levels. Instead of being able to invest in training, upgrade equipment or enhance the client experience, a larger share of the budget will now be swallowed by tax obligations. It’s a frustrating reality when salons are already contending with rising product costs and energy bills, making it harder than ever to stay competitive.
The VAT changes don’t directly hit us, but they might impact our clients’ disposable incomes. And let’s not ignore inflation, it’s the invisible force sneaking into everything from the cost of foils to shampoo. For a salon, where so much relies on high-quality products, these small increases quickly add up.
What worries me most is how all of this affects our people. Hairdressing is a business built on relationships, and when staff face financial strain or job insecurity, it disrupts the entire dynamic. Add to that clients who are also feeling the pinch, and suddenly, even the most loyal customers are stretching out their visits.
So, what’s the way forward? For me, it’s all about transparency and creativity. Open conversations with the team ensure we’re all on the same page, and small adjustments, like promoting budget-friendly treatments or offering loyalty rewards, help keep clients coming back. Collaboration across the industry will also be key; there’s strength in shared wisdom and support.
This isn’t an easy time to be a small business owner, but I’ve learned that resilience comes from recognising challenges and turning them into opportunities. While the road ahead may be uncertain, I’m committed to finding ways forward –for my business, my team and the clients who put their trust in us.
I know that there’s been a huge hit for apprentices – I work with a college and have seen the drastic decline of those numbers – but my response is this: instead of having two apprentices, I’m going to have four. I’m going to be putting masses into them, but I am also expecting a lot from them. That is the deal. I can’t teach trustworthiness, but I can teach about the emotion of hairdressing, and I’ll meet them with the skills and training. It’s about being accountable.
DANIEL GRANGER, OWNER OF DANIEL GRANGER HAIRDRESSING
Hesitations, Hardships and Heartbreaking Decisions
TIM SCOTT-WRIGHT, OWNER OF THE HAIR SURGERY
Running a salon has always been about balancing passion with practicality, and right now, that balance is being tested. We’re facing some tough decisions. With three of my team turning 21 next year, their wages will increase from £8.60 to £12.21 an hour. While I firmly believe in rewarding my team fairly, especially as they grow into graduate stylists, this significant rise –along with National Insurance –adds up to an extra £50,000 annually. Even with some potential savings, it’s still a substantial figure to accommodate.
I’ve always structured wages to reward performance and progression, starting with graduate stylists earning commission as they build their clientele and working up to senior levels, but these changes hit hard when stylists are still establishing themselves. To manage this, we’ll need to implement a 5% price increase next year. It’s not an ideal solution, but it’s necessary to ensure the salon’s stability.
I’ve also had to reconsider other investments, like shooting a collection –a creative outlet I love, but one that may now be a luxury we can’t justify. Our profits largely go toward wages and taxes, and while we’re a high-turnover business, profitability is tight.
Thankfully, my accountant has been a lifeline. Their detailed forecasting has helped me navigate these challenges with clarity. But the reality is, we’ll need to look at reducing graduate stylists’ hours if the gap isn’t closed by March. They’d have an extra day off each week while retaining roughly the same annual salary due to fewer hours. It’s not ideal, but it’s a way to manage costs while maintaining fairness.
One thing I’m clear on is sticking to my principles. Moving to a rent-a-chair model or a hybrid structure isn’t an option. It’s not how I want to run the salon, and the risks outweigh the benefits. I’ve also had to make the heartbreaking decision to pause taking on new apprentices. The financial strain of rising apprentice wages, coupled with changes to employment laws that remove probation periods, makes it too risky. I’ve always been passionate about nurturing the next generation of hairdressers, but current policies leave me no choice. Whilst it feels frustrating and counterproductive to the growth of our industry, my focus needs to be on ensuring the salon remains a supportive and successful place for the team I have now. We’ll adapt, as we always do, but it’s hard not to feel disheartened.
Our industry is at a tipping point. The potential collapse of high-street salons and apprenticeships would be devastating, not only to our industry but to the health and wellbeing of millions of clients who rely on these spaces for connection, care and confidence.
LUKE Doolin, COUNTRY MANAGER UKI at PHOREST SALON software
The Budget has impacted many SME businesses, creating a real stir in our industry. Whilst the increase in business rates affects everyone running a salon, the increase in NMW and NICs only affects salons and businesses that employ their staff.
It has increased the cost of employment to a point where many businesses may fold or change their model, as 63% of our industry have already done. For the remaining, more-conventional models, it poses significant challenges. For us, it has increased our costs by around £40-50k per year as we employ many apprentices and young workers.
We are busy coming up with solutions to mitigate these extra costs while problem-solving with The Salon Employers Association, who are lobbying the government through The British Hair Consortium. In the short term, we will review our KPIs to ensure they align with our soon-to-be new financial obligations. In the midterm, we will prepare our team for a small price increase (we do this annually anyway) and ensure our customer journey is as excellent as it should be.
My advice is to know your numbers. Understand the impact that lies ahead and be ready. It’s also a great idea to be transparent with your team –they often have valuable ideas and solutions. Together, you will have a much stronger chance of pulling through.
LORENZO COLangelo, OWNER OF THE GALLERY HAIRDRESSING
The Impact of the Budget on Learners, Employers and Learning Providers
What have you heard from employers since the Budget and what has the impact been on learners?
The impact on employers in small businesses has largely been devastating. This is the second year that there has been a significant increase in minimum wage, and now the increase has been layered over additional taxes too. This means that many apprenticeships have become simply unaffordable – it not only limits the number of apprentices that businesses can take on, but also just how viable those apprenticeships are in the long term too.
The situation is particularly devastating for barbershops, where the average bill is typically lower. However, in our experience, barbering learners have often chosen to go straight into self-employment, so the minimum wage increase makes a shop-floor apprenticeship more appealing.
How do you believe the decision on Minimum Wage and employer National Insurance will impact the industry in 2025?
The industry has experienced one blow after another in recent years, and this Budget is far from helpful. Many of our young learners are full of anxiety for the future. We are coaching them to support the employer every way they can, but we believe that this will start a vicious cycle. There are not going to be as many apprenticeships available, so learners will be pushed into FE Colleges which, unfortunately, have a poor reputation when it comes to practical, work-ready skills. As a result, there will be a whole cohort of young people with a certificate, but no real commercial skills. What’s required is something like the old Youth Training Scheme, a truly vocational, funded course.
What
are you doing to help learners and employers as a learning provider?
At MTE Hair & Barbering, we are going to pivot and work even more closely with the employers to create a bespoke course shaped around the commercial needs of the business. So, for example, if a learner starts in September, we will begin with blow-drying so that by Christmas they can be a real asset to the salon and free-up time to add revenue elsewhere. For barbershops, we might offer a learner shaving skills or channel them straight into basic cuts for other shops. We are absolutely devoted to making sure that the apprentice is picking up the low-level work so that the employer can take more money in the till.
Setting theStyling Standard
Crafted by professionals for professionals, Keune’s reimagined Style Range merges cutting-edge technology with ethical, high-performance formulations. Designed to inspire creativity while prioritising hair health, it’s the ultimate toolkit for modern hairstyling.
29 expertly crafted products, the range combines vegan, cruelty-free ingredients with advanced scientific innovation to meet the dynamic demands of today’s salon professionals. Each product reflects meticulous collaboration with elite stylists from around the world and is led by Keune’s top scientific team in the Netherlands, delivering exceptional quality and performance.
True to its B Corp values, Keune reinforces its commitment to social and environmental responsibility, giving you confidence in every choice you make.
Keune relaunched its Style Range, and it instantly became the brand’s most in-demand product line.
Five Categories, Endless Looks
The five new Style categories are crafted to perfection with ground-breaking formulas that redefine hairstyling standards and have all your hairdressing needs covered, allowing you to create stunning styles while pushing your creative boundaries to new heights.
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• Prep & Prime: Begin with high-performance products designed to prep hair for styling.
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Keune Takes Centre Stage
The Keune Style Range is made by professionals and used by professionals on catwalks and campaigns around the world.
Keune Global Ambassador, Luke Benson, shot the campaign and uses it on all his celebrity clients...
“I recently had the honour of leading the new campaign for the Keune Style Range relaunch. I was involved in everything from the white label testing all the way to product design, so to be part of creating the key imagery looks alongside other Global Ambassadors was a really proud career moment for me. The products and imagery have been received so well by both clients and stylists around the world.
Fashion Weeks demand exceptional hairwork under pressure. Backstage, hairstylists can be confident in the Keune Style range to provide the tools to unleash their creativity while maintaining the models’ hair health.
This was evident at London Fashion Week, where Eugene Souleiman led the hairstyling team at Simone Rocha’s The Wake catwalk spectacle.
Harnessing the expertise of the Keune products, Eugene curated looks that flawlessly complemented the Victorian theme, utilising products renowned for their quality and innovation.
More recently, Eugene teamed up with the Wig Academy to create a 10-episode course, where he conducts
RENAISS HOOKER &
RENAISSANCE CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF HISTORICAL GRANDEUR INFUSED WITH CONTEMPORARY FASHION. IT CREATES A VISUAL NARRATIVE THAT BRIDGES THE PAST AND PRESENT WITH CAPTIVATING SOPHISTICATION.
SSANCE & YOUNG
INDOLA X FHA PIONEERS
ART DIRECTION: Andy and Abbey Smith for
SIGHT UNSEEN
Darrel Starkey
MAKE-UP:
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Freelance forum...
DO THE MATHS!
IN A NEW SERIES, RUTH LUNDSTROM, CEO & FOUNDER OF THE FREELANCE SUITE APP, SETS OUT THE SUMS FOR YOU…
What if I don’t charge for my toners?
Here is what undercharging looks like in real terms:
Sara works 5 days a week. She does 8 hours a day. And works 46 weeks of the year.
She sees an average of 80 clients a month.
Sara uses Redken and it costs £14.41 per 60ml mixed.
If Sara uses 30ml mixed product for each toner without charging for it, she will lose £577 per month just in product cost!
That’s £6,635 PER YEAR!!!
(and that’s if we’ve forgotten to charge for the application and processing time too!)
NOTES:
The Impact of Undercharging for Your Services:
Undercharging might be THE most common issue I see with prices in our industry. It’s the reason that when it comes to doing your tax return at the end of the year, you suddenly realise you’ve barely made a wage and that you’ve actually spent the last 12 months getting good at just juggling your finances. This can become a very vicious cycle to get stuck in.
Undercharging each client by just £10 could cost you upwards of £9000 a year!!
What
if I forget to charge for the extra lightener and time?
An extra bowl of lightener and the 30 minutes to apply has been left off the cost.. How does this add up?
Sara works 5 days a week. She does 8 hours a day. And works 46 weeks of the year.
She sees an average of 80 clients a month.
Sara mixes bowls of bleach 30g in a 1:2 ratio.
The lightener is £28.80 for 450g and the developer is £12.36
A 30g bowl isjust £2.66
Sara’s hourly rate is £55, which includes her usage and running costs.
Half an hour of her time is £27.50
If she undercharges just half her clients over the year, she would lose £13,874 YOUR TIME IS YOUR MONEY!
How do we end up undercharging in the first place? Well, it’s usually because of two things:
1. Lack of clear communication.
2. Fear of judgement or rejection.
Sometimes, we fail to communicate to the client – either during the consultation or at the earliest convenience – that what they want to achieve with their hair will incur an additional charge for the time and products that are needed.
The reason we fail to communicate this
is because of FEAR. We are scared the client may say no, or that we may be judged harshly for passing on the cost. However, we need to remember that it’s the client wearing the hair and wanting the results, so it’s for no one else to pay for – least of all you.
Long term, the impact of undercharging will have you feeling undervalued and, ultimately, broke and burned out. Undercharging will lead to an erosion of profit margins, making it hard to cover your overhead costs in the long run.
Renee: With the Autumn Budget coming into effect, I’m worried about how it might impact costs like rent, utilities and the products we use daily. What should we expect?
Sheila: The Autumn Budget often brings economic adjustments that can influence small businesses. For freelance hairdressers, rising rent, utility costs and product prices may feel inevitable. Remember, increasing costs are something every business faces, so it’s vital to account for them when setting prices.
You’re running a serious business, so I’d advise reviewing your prices annually, even if it feels uncomfortable. Staying on top of your costs and making small adjustments each year is much easier for clients to accept than a sudden large increase. One strategy is to emphasise your professionalism by linking the increase to your membership with the FHA. For example, you could say your prices are increasing because you’re a member of the FHA, and as part of their standard policy, you update you prices yearly to ensure the best possible service. This approach shows clients that you’re part of an organisation that values quality and professionalism.
Renee: Taxes can feel overwhelming for freelance hairdressers, especially when it’s a new avenue for them. Is there an easier way for us to manage self-assessments?
Sheila: Absolutely! The complexities of self-assessment often leave freelancers feeling overwhelmed. Thankfully, there are solutions designed to simplify the process. We recommend the app Untied, created by Kevin Sefton, a former HMRC employee. It’s incredibly simple to use –all you do is input your income and expenses, and the app calculates your tax liability. At the end of the year, you press a button to submit your return.
If you’re an FHA member, you actually get a discounted price of £75 per year instead of the usual £100 for the app. It’s a game-changer because it saves you the cost of an accountant while making the process stress free.
Renee: I’ve been hearing a lot about unregistered practitioners and disguised employment. What does this mean?
Sheila: The lack of regulation is a challenge for the whole industry, but we’re making progress. Organisations like the British Hairdressing Council are working behind the scenes to introduce better standards. It’s slow, but things are moving. As for disguised employment, it’s becoming a bigger problem. This happens when freelancers rent a chair, but are treated like employees without the
LET’S TALK!
NAVIGATING CHALLENGES IN FREELANCE HAIRDRESSING
FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER, RENEE RILEY, SAT DOWN WITH SHEILA ABRAHAMS MBE, FOUNDER OF THE FREELANCE HAIRDRESSERS ASSOCIATION (FHA), TO DISCUSS THE PRESSING CONCERNS FACING FREELANCERS TODAY. SHEILA OFFERS HER INSIGHT TO HELP YOU NAVIGATE FINANCIAL, REGULATORY AND INDUSTRY CHALLENGES WITH CONFIDENCE.
benefits. For example, if the salon dictates your hours, prices or clients, that’s not a genuine freelance arrangement. If you’re renting a chair, you should set your own prices, have your own clients and handle your own payments. If you’re concerned, review your contract to ensure you’re truly independent.
Renee: Hairdressing contributes significantly to the economy and mental wellbeing of clients. How can we ensure this industry is recognised and protected as an essential service?
Sheila: Freelance hairdressers do so much more than create beautiful hairstyles. We provide a safe space for clients to relax and be themselves, and we share a special relationship built on trust and care. While
we don’t need to take on clients’ problems, simply listening can make a huge difference in their lives. As freelancers, we should be proud of the confidence and happiness we bring to our clients; it’s what makes our work truly invaluable.
Renee: Do you have any parting words for freelance hairdressers looking to navigate today’s challenges?
Sheila: Stay informed, stay connected and don’t be afraid to ask for help. Organisations like the FHA exist to support you, whether it’s with pricing, taxes or handling tricky situations. Most importantly, remember that you’re not alone – you’re part of a community that values and celebrates your contribution to the industry.
SPACE AGE
WHEN JACK AND ROSS WILLIAMS-HIRST OPENED THEIR CO-WORKING SPACE, WILLIAMS & HIRST, IN THE HEART OF SOHO, THEIR GOAL WAS TO CREATE A SPACE THAT SUPPORTS AND CELEBRATES THIS NEW ERA OF THE INDEPENDENT HAIRDRESSER THAT WE FIND OURSELVES IN.
IN AN EXCLUSIVE NEW SERIES FOR EXPERIENCES AS SKILFUL SOLO STYLISTS AND BUSINESS ENTREPRENEURS. HERE, THEY KICK OFF WITH WHY THEY THINK CHAIR RENTAL IS WHERE IT IS AT NOW…
At Williams & Hirst, we’re firm believers in the power of independence. It’s one of the reasons we’ve built our co-working salon around the chair rental model. For us, it’s the best way to empower stylists to grow their own brands while benefiting from the support of a collaborative environment. If you’re weighing up the pros and cons of commission-based employment versus chair rental, here’s why we think chair rental is the ultimate way to go...
1
Freedom and Control
One of the biggest advantages of chair rental is the freedom it gives you. You’re in charge of your business, your hours, your pricing and your clients. Want to take a long weekend or book in a last-minute appointment? It’s entirely up to you.
Being able to call the shots means you can shape your work life around your goals and priorities. For us, that independence is invaluable, and it’s why we’ve created a space where you can thrive as your own boss while still feeling part of a bigger community.
2
Build Your Own Brand
When you rent a chair, you’re not just working – you’re building your own brand. You have the chance to develop your unique style and reputation, separate from the umbrella of an employer’s brand. At Williams & Hirst, we see each stylist as a creative entrepreneur, and we love how everyone brings their individuality to the salon.
Clients will come to know you for your skill, creativity and personal touch. It’s an opportunity to grow something that’s entirely yours, while benefiting from the shared energy and exposure of a co-working space.
3A Collaborative, Not Competitive, Environment
At Williams & Hirst, we’ve worked hard to ensure our chair rental model creates a sense of collaboration rather than competition. Everyone here is focused on growing their own business, but there’s always room for sharing ideas, advice and inspiration. It’s a supportive environment that fosters creativity and success for all.
“Being able to call the shots means you can shape your work life around your goals and priorities. For us, that independence is invaluable, and it’s why we’ve created a space where you can thrive as your own boss while still feeling part of a bigger community.”
4
Financial Control and Benefits
Chair rental puts you in control of your finances in a way commission-based employment can’t. You decide your prices, so your income reflects your worth and your effort. Unlike commission splits, where a percentage of what you earn goes to the salon, with chair rental, your profits are yours to keep.
Another perk? You can expense your costs. From your tools and products to travel and training, these are deductible against your income. This not only helps with managing costs, but also makes running your business more efficient from a financial perspective.
5
The Best of Both Worlds
For us, chair rental creates the perfect balance; it gives stylists the freedom to run their own show while providing a professional and stylish space to do it in. You get to be part of a buzzing salon with all the facilities and atmosphere you need to impress your clients, but without the strings of traditional employment.
BOSSIN’ IT
HOW TO CHALLENGE YOUR LIMITING BELIEFS
There’s a saying in the world of personal development that goes, ‘Until you make the unconscious, conscious, it will rule your life and you will call it fate’. So, because the unconscious accounts for over 95% of our thoughts, beliefs and actions, when these beliefs are limiting, the detrimental impact can be huge.
So, what exactly are limiting beliefs? These are the thoughts or convictions that hold you back from reaching your goals and achieving your full potential. They could be beliefs like, ‘I can’t charge more because I live in a low-income area’, ‘I’m not good enough to enter that competition’, or ‘People will judge me if I make my work visible’.
“I’m 6-foot tall and covered in tattoos, I also had the side of my head shaved and wore band tees to work. I thought that to be a successful hairdresser you had to be petite, glam, only wear tunics and have a fresh blow-dry every morning.”
OWNER OF BOSS YOUR SALON, A COACHING PLATFORM THAT SUPPORTS THE INDUSTRY THROUGH BUSINESS EDUCATION, MASTERCLASSES AND THE RENOWNED PRICING CALCULATOR, MADDI COOK SEES BUSINESS THROUGH THE EYES OF THE HAIRDRESSER. AN ALLY, CONFIDANTE, TEACHER AND FRIEND, HER APPROACHABLE MANNER AND STRAIGHT-TALKING SKILLS ARE EMPOWERING A GENERATION.
SHE’S HERE TO HELP PRO HAIR READERS WITH HER NEW SERIES…
When I first started out as a freelancer at just 21, I had my own limiting beliefs that I didn’t ‘look like other hairdressers’. I’m 6-foot tall and covered in tattoos, I also had the side of my head shaved and wore band tees to work. I thought that to be a successful hairdresser you had to be petite, glam, only wear tunics and have a fresh blow-dry every morning.
This belief really held me back, especially when it came to showing myself on social media.
This was a particular challenge because I worked mobile at the time and, as it turns out, people want to get a feel for the strangers they’re allowing into their homes - who knew!?
Some of my clients obviously had similar thoughts too (or at least they did before we met) as I would often hear, “Oh, I wasn’t expecting someone like you!” as they opened their door. Luckily, once we got to know each other, I started to wonder if what was holding me back could actually go in my favour...
“You’ve gotta check out this tattooed woman who did my extensions!”, some clients would say when they recommended me to their friends, and I began to slowly attract a handful of alternative clients. They would tell me how they always felt like they couldn’t fit in with ‘traditional’ salons, or that they felt intimidated asking for the weird and wonderful styles they really wanted.
And that’s when it really dawned on me, so I decided to show myself online and really let my followers and clients get to know me. Business boomed quickly, and I became the go-to hairdresser for the creatives, the musicians, the tattoo artists and my fellow neurodiverse, alternative, ever-changing-hair-colour women of the North East.
So, what if you could reframe your current limiting beliefs to something that could actually help you grow? Rather than thinking, ‘no one can afford higher prices in this town’, instead try, ‘I’m going to serve the clientele who want high quality and are prepared to pay for it’. What if, instead of, ‘I’m not good enough to enter that competition’, you thought, ‘I’m proud of my work and whether I win or not, this will be a great experience and push me to highlight my achievements’?
And then, what if you consciously took small actions, every single day, to align with these new, helpful beliefs? Your business and life could look completely different in even a few short months.
Like Henry Ford said, ‘Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t, you’re right’. Maybe 2025 is the year that you believe you can.
THE LAUNCHPAD
A CURL’S BEST FRIEND
The new Curl Styler from textured haircare experts, Shedid & Parrish, is specifically formulated for all curl patterns – from tight coils to soft waves. The styler defines and holds curls to create bouncy, healthy and shiny results. Delivering long-lasting nourishment and protection, the formula acts as a shield against common environmental stressors, safeguarding hair from pollution, UV rays and heat damage up to 200°C. www.rdr.link/HBE007
GROOMING ON THE GO
Created to offer salon-level results on the go, the Alfa Italia Viaggio portable styling kit has launched in three new shades: Apricot Crush, Lilac Smoke and Pistachio. Containing an ultra-compact hair dryer and hair iron set in a new, sleek carry case, the set works to ensure effortless organisation wherever your hairstyling takes you.
www.rdr.link/HBE006
HOLY COW!
Continuing its mission of making salon kits pop, Denman has recently introduced two new patterns for its iconic D4 9 Row Original Styler: thePink Crush Logo Print and the Cow Print. With nine rows of polished pins to allow for snag-free styling and a curved pin pad to pack in extra tension to shape and create volume, the brush is complete with an ergonomic handle to provide comfort and grip all day long.
www.rdr.link/HBE008
SHINE A LITTLE LOVE
Designed to smoothen strands whilst delivering incredible shine, the newly relaunched Supershine Discovery Collection from Oribe works to transform dull and dry hair. Including the Hydrating Shampoo, Hydrating Conditioner and Moisturizing Cream, the three products work together as a regimen to create weightless hydration, luminous shine and silky smoothness. www.rdr.link/HBE009
SPOOKY SAVIOURS
Say goodbye to stained towels and long drying times with the latest launch from Phantom Towels. With a new Phantom Medium towel to join the Phantom XL and Baby Phantom line-up, this towel trio is 100% hair bleach and hair colour proof. Plus, made from an advanced quality microfibre material, the towels work to reduce energy use, running costs and drying times after washing. www.rdr.link/HBE010
A TASTE OF PORTUGAL
Andreia Professional, Portugal’s trusted colour specialist since 1987, has officially launched its professional hair portfolio into the UK market. In partnership with Grafton International as the official distributor, the new rollout introduces a comprehensive range of colour, care and styling products to UK wholesalers, empowering hair professionals with innovative products and high-performance solutions. www.rdr.link/HBE011
FEELIN’ ROSY
The Finishing Touch
Introducing the brand-new Halfpipe from R+Co, a dry wax finishing spray that imparts volume, separation and movement on any hair type. Crafted for clients looking for a defining texture, light lift and buildable hold, the ultra-fine mist contains Tamarind Extract to restore hydration and Oregano Oil for natural shine.
www.rdr.link/HBE014
Ensure clients keep an always-fresh salon colour with the new Color Fresh Mask shades from Wella Professionals. Now available in Pink Blush and Pink, the zero-damage, colour-depositing masks offer a unique way to continue the professional salon experience in just ten minutes at home. Divided into two distinct ranges, the Color Fresh Mask collection consists of ten natural-looking shades andfive vibrant shades. www.rdr.link/HBE012
THE SINGLE-BLADE FADE
Introducing the newest clipper from Wahl Professional –the Vapor. Combining its most powerful brushless motor with an all new F32 FADEOUT adjustable balding blade, the Vapor has been created to dominate the fade by cutting from bald to fade with just one blade.
www.rdr.link/HBE013
LAVISH LOUNGING
Prioritising advanced ergonomics and functionality, Takara Belmont introduces the LUAR motorised styling and treatment chair. With an optimum combination of design, comfort and convenience in a compact form, the chair’s multi-purpose nature makes it possible for salons to boost their revenue potential by expanding their service menu, including head spa services, scalp care rituals and beauty treatments.
www.rdr.link/HBE015
GIVING US EXCLUSIVE MONTHLY ACCESS TO HIS STYLISH, SWAMPED AND STAR-STUDDED SCHEDULE, CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, SESSION STYLIST AND SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON, SHOWS US WHAT HE’S BEEN UP TO…
Check out more of Luke’s hair happenings at @lukebensoncreative and @lukebensonsalon
BO OK ED
Amsterdam with Alicia Riley
I recently popped over to Keune HQ in Amsterdam, this time to teach a two-day masterclass with fellow Global Ambassador, Alicia Riley, who was over from Australia. She did all the creative colouring on our models, and I did the cutting and styling. They were a great group, with a mix of stylists and educators at a very high level. The pressure was definitely on, but I think it was a real success!
Party Season Education Videos
Leading up to the party season, I created four videos for Keune showcasing different looks using the new Style range. There was a real mix of hair down, up, textured and sleek looks, so that clients and other stylists could see the various creations possible when using the new range. I really enjoyed experimenting with what products to use and playing around with different processes to create the looks.
ITV New Year’s Eve Bash
Roman Kemp hosted an ITV show that aired on New Year’s Eve, recapping the year’s events in the media, celebrity and public eye. It was the second year in a row doing this, and it’s always so much fun. The content can be SO random, but everyone is in high spirits filming these sorts of shows!
Keune Switzerland and Indonesia with Jayson Gray
We also had the Keune Switzerland and Indonesian teams over to London at the House of Keune for some education sessions with myself and UK Colour Visionary for Keune, Jayson Gray. Jayson and I have worked together a lot over the years, and I feel our styles really complement each other. We showcased eight different models across the two sessions –Jayson working on the colour and me on a mix of haircuts and styling. It’s always a real honour to be able to showcase our London influences to hairdressers from other countries, hopefully giving them some inspiration to take home!
Dublin Style Launch
Space NK
Back at the tail end of last year, I worked on the Space NK Christmas campaign to showcase their top products for the festive season. It was the beauty special, so we were able to really focus on the hair and make-up side of things. It was a great team too, including my great friend, Lan Nguyen-Grealis, who did all the gorgeous make-up looks.
This was a two-day trip to showcase the new Keune Style range to the Irish teams. Salon owners and prospect accounts came to my classes to hear me talk about my role with Keune, why I love the brand and what the new style range can do for them. I took two models with me and created a variety of looks to show off the versatility of the range.
The Design Edit.
KY WILSON AND LAUREN PORTER’S SALON, DISTRICT, WAS THE FIRST-EVER WINNER OF THE PROFESSIONAL HOME SALON OF THE YEAR AT THE PRO HAIR AWARDS 2024, SPONSORED BY ALAN HOWARD. HERE, WE SPEAK TO KY TO FIND OUT EXACTLY WHAT’S BEHIND THIS WINNING DESIGN…
Where is your home salon situated? In my garden in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex.
What inspired you to set up your home salon?
At first, it was to create a space out of our home for Lauren to do her clients in, in between bringing up our young family. Now, clients travel from far and wide to come and get their hair done. District is also hired by brands as a backdrop for us to create content in, from BaByliss PRO and Evo Pro to Lee Jeans.
How much of the work did you do yourself?
The work for this build was never-ending; something that should’ve taken six weeks became a year-long project to complete! My role for this job was project manager, doing what I do best and ironing out the finer details which, in my opinion, makes any business stand out. Just because this was built in my garden –and I know that some people in the industry have strong opinions on home salons –doesn’t mean I wouldn’t treat this how I would approach any job/project I take on.
Once the structure was built, I took more of a hands-on approach, designing and fitting the interiors, using the contacts I’ve built up over the years to custom build rather than pick things off the shelf. A lot of work went into bringing my vision to life and we are stoked that an industry award has given us a space to celebrate this.
How would you describe the interior design of your home salon?
As an overall feeling, I guess it has a Grecian vibe to it, but I would describe the decor as a calming space that champions raw beauty.
Do you have any curated pieces or special features in the home salon? Well, everything from the build of the structure and the backwash built from Smith & Goat to the mirror station built by Sophie Watson has all been curated.
How have you embraced sustainability within your design?
We have embraced it in everything within the build and the structure – from using ground screws and timber to the Bauwerk Limewash paint on the walls.
“Just because this was built in my garden –and I know that some people in the industry have strong opinions on home salons –doesn’t mean I wouldn’t treat this how I would approach any job/project I take on.”
What’s the reason you fell in love with hairdressing?
Warren Beatty!
What’s your go-to hair product right now?
My go-to hair product is my Hair Raising Spray, and it has been since 1979! It provides incredible volume and long-lasting hold without stiffness –nothing else has come close.
What’s the favourite look you have created?
A standout was transforming Yasmin Le Bon’s long, jet-black hair into a bold, short cut. It is an iconic image for me personally because it was my last shoot before post production became a thing. Other favourites that have gotten me noticed commercially include cutting royalty’s hair, working on the Bond films and cutting Christian Bale’s hair for Batman.
What’s your go-to takeaway order?
I love to cook, so I actually don’t really have takeaways very often. If it’s been one of those days where you just want an Uber Eats though, then it would always be Indian.
WHAT’S..?
Nicky Clarke OBE on The Bee Gees, Bowie and Batman
What’s your drink of choice at the bar?
Whiskey Sour.
What’s the last thing you bought?
I don’t normally shop here (apart from socks!), but I have just bought a chocolate brown, cashmere roll-neck jumper from M&S!
What’s your top binge-watch recommendation?
I don’t tend to watch much TV, but I will occasionally watch music documentaries. The one on the music mogul Clive Davis was phenomenal, and I loved the Bee Gees one as well.
What’s the most memorable moment in your career so far?
There are a few! Opening my first salon, with the Duchess of York, Sarah Ferguson, arriving unannounced to cut the ribbon stands out, and receiving an OBE from Her Majesty the Queen was an