This issue, we bring you tips on how to get men in your chair; we look at mastering your male marketing and we consider those clients crossing the hairline rubicon and combating hair loss.
This rather meaty mezze of all things ‘men’s’ delivers the latest grooming looks with beards, braids and buzzcuts a plenty. Plus, check out what’s grabbed our attention in the style stakes with something for all your male clients –everything from modern mullets and TikTok hair to the more slicked-back, rock ‘n roll winners.
And talking of winners – you only have two weeks left to secure your place at the first ever Pro Hair Awards Live Final on September 16th. To avoid a hard case of FOMO, click here for tickets or go to www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk/awards
We’ll see you at the London Reign Showclub for a high-octane hair night of celebration!
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF.
Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk
HAIR: RITA TUSKA & MARNEY LIAN FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY:RICHARD MILES
Laura Jowsey ljowsey@hamerville.co.uk
Editorial & Sales Enquiries Phone: 01923 237799
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After the success of its 8th annual Salon Owners Summit in January this year, Phorest Salon Software is gearing up for the return of the anticipated event in 2025. On 26th and 27th January 2025, hundreds of salon owners and managers from across the world will come together at the Dublin Royal Convention Centre, for two days of inspiration, education and business growth. Secure your tickets today here: www.rdr.link/HBA001
MOMENTOUS MILESTONES FOR MEDUSA
Medusa Hair Edinburgh recently celebrated the remarkable achievements of its team at its annual team awards ceremony. This year’s event was themed around ‘Pride’, reflecting the various aspects of growth, adaptation, survival and blossoming that define Medusa’s journey. Managing Director, Colin McAndrew, addressed the attendees: “As I look around this room, I see a group of incredibly talented, dedicated and passionate individuals who have excelled in their craft and contributed significantly to the vibrant and supportive culture we cherish here at Medusa.”
DUO CELEBRATE A DECADE OF SUCCESS
Ashley and Stephanie Gamble, of Ashley Gamble Hair in the Midlands, celebrate ten years at the forefront of their renowned salon. At the core of their philosophy is an unwavering dedication to education, a passion
AN INSPIRATION CONVERSATION
Celebrating innovation, creativity and excellence in freelance hairdressing, the Freelance Hairdresser’s Association (FHA) recently held its highly anticipated Inspire event. Attendees from across the UK gathered for a day filled with dynamic presentations, insightful demonstrations and valuable networking opportunities. Commenting on the day, FHA founder, Sheila Abrahams, said: “It was a fantastic day. Everyone that attended has left inspired with new ideas to take back to their clients.”
HAPPY 45TH TO RRI!
Scotland’s largest salon group, Rainbow Room International, is celebrating 45 years in business this year. Beginning in 1979 with a single salon situated on Buchanan Street in Glasgow, RRI has grown to become an eleven-salon strong group. Through their unmatched support to the whole team, its directors and the hairdressing industry, RRI Co-Founders, Alan and Linda Stewart, received an OBE in the New Year’s Honours List for Services to Hairdressing in 2021.
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
A GOLD STAR FOR COLLINGE & CO
Collinge & Co Training are delighted to have received an ‘Outstanding’ rating following its latest Ofsted Inspection. The Liverpool-based training provider received grades of Outstanding across all areas, including Quality of Education, Behaviour and Attitudes, Personal Development, Leadership and Management, Apprenticeships and Overall Effectiveness. Having provided Level 2 and Level 3 hairdressing apprenticeship training for over 40 years, Collinge & Co Training prides itself on its commitment to preparing apprentices well for sustainable careers within the hairdressing industry.
SAMANTHA CUSICK: UK CONSUMER STYLIST ADVOCATE FOR AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT
Authentic Beauty Concept has announced the appointment of Samantha Cusick as its first UK Consumer Stylist Advocate. A renowned hairstylist, colour expert and entrepreneur behind the Samantha Cusick London hair salons and Stã Studios, Samantha will work with Authentic Beauty Concept to promote the brand’s core values and innovative product launches.
DARREL STARKEY: AMBASSADOR FOR ASP HAIRCARE
ASP Haircare has appointed Darrel Starkey as one of its newest brand ambassadors. Darrel, known for his vibrant creativity and expertise, has spent the last two years perfecting his craft as an ASP Colour Rebel, a journey that has now culminated in this role. In his new capacity, Darrel will be leading educational live shows and embarking on international travels to showcase the innovation of ASP Haircare products.
SAM KERSWELL: UK GLOBAL ARTIST FOR FASTFOILS
Stylist to the stars, Sam Kerswell will now be bringing his colouring skills to FASTFOILS as its newest Global Artist in the UK and across North America. Sam is best known for his work as a wig designer on RuPaul’s Drag Race, as well as his numerous celebrity clients. He will work closely with the US and North American FASTFOILS teams and join stage shows to demonstrate the brand’s technology.
FREDERIC ASPIRAS: GLOBAL CREATIVE & CULTURE DIRECTOR FOR SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL
Sebastian Professional announces the appointment of Oscar-nominated hair artist, Frederic Aspiras, as its new Global Creative and Culture Director. With a stellar career spanning over two decades, Frederic has established himself as a trailblazing force in the world of hair design and beauty. Renowned for his unparalleled creativity, visionary approach and iconic Lady Gaga hair looks, Aspiras brings a wealth of experience and expertise to his new role at Sebastian Professional.
Hair is where the is. OUT OUT
Celebrations and happy tears at the first WELOVE British Hair Pro Awards in collaboration with Habia and The Hair & Barber Council.
WELOVE, the education creative developed by award-winning stylist and educator, Rae Palmer, celebrated excellence, innovation and professionalism within the UK hair industry at its inaugural awards ceremony, hosted at the quintessentially English Eversholt Hall recently.
Hairdressers from around the UK spent the day immersed in the WELOVE bubble of support, friendship, dedication and professionalism in hair. As well as the awards, guests were treated to some fabulous hair demos from the WELOVE team, with a special appearance from WELOVE family friend, Global Session Stylist and Brand Founder, Carlo Oliveri, who had travelled from Sicily to support the event.
The awards, supported by Habia and The Hair & Barber Council, were across seven categories, encompassing various aspects of hairdressing and highlighting the diverse skills and expertise that contribute to the industry’s success. The distinguished panel of judges had a tough job selecting the winners who had all put a great deal of effort into entering their respective categories.
Rae Palmer, Founder of WELOVE, said: “We were thrilled to receive such a high number of nominations for our inaugural awards. This overwhelming response demonstrates the immense talent and passion that exists within the UK hairdressing community.
“I am truly grateful for the help and support of both Habia and The Hair & Barber Council, in making these awards a resounding success and a true celebration of the incredible skills, innovative work and the culture of excellence and growth of British hair professionals.”
And
the winners were…
Congratulations to all seven deserving award winners:
British HairPro of the Year – Declan Patrick Logue
British Master HairPro Creative Commercial Colourist of the Year – Anna Vounvoumidou
British Master HairPro Educator/Art Director – Shelley Lane
British Creative Commercial Stylist of the Year – Michael Pollock
British Master HairPro CCH – Nova Fanner
British Purple Heart HairPro of the Year – Sonia Fraga
British Master HairPro Outstanding Contribution – Tracey Ann Smith
LAST CHANC
Live Final on 16 th September 2024
PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL FINDS OUT THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND THE LESSONS THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.
TO FAIL HOW
THIS ISSUE, PHIL SITS DOWN FOR A ZOOM CALL WITH LEE STAFFORD FROM HIS HOME IN IBIZA. AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSER, INNOVATOR AND EDUCATOR, LEE IS ONE OF THE UK’S BEST KNOWN HAIR SUCCESS STORIES. FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO A STRING OF SALONS AND HIS GLOBAL, ICONIC PINK HAIRCARE BRAND, LEE IS NOW BEST KNOWN FOR HIS NOT-FOR-PROFIT EDUCATION FOUNDATION. HE HAS COME A LONG WAY SINCE CUTTING HAIR IN HIS MUM’S DINING ROOM, SO PHIL WANTED TO FIND OUT THE UPS, DOWNS, HIGHS AND LOWS OF LEE’S EPIC CAREER.
LEE, THANK YOU FOR TALKING TO ME TODAY. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE OR FAILURE?
My biggest mistakes were definitely when I was learning to do hair. I started off in my mum’s dining room, and I did six years without any education! I was trying my best, I really was, but it probably took me 10 years before I actually stood back from someone’s hair and felt proud of my work. I once accidently carved a big bald patch into someone’s crown with clippers, I also cut off the top of MULTIPLE people’s ears and I did lopsided bobs before they were in fashion! When I decided I was going to open up my own salon, I realised that I needed to get myself properly educated – I started going to Sassoon every single week, taking back what I learnt to my little salon that I just opened.
IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A LESSON AWAY FROM THAT THEN, WOULD IT BE THE VALUE OF FORMAL TRAINING?
Definitely. I mean, don’t get me wrong, working in the dining room was the making of me in many ways; it allowed me to become uniquely me because
I had no influence. At the same time though, I wouldn’t recommend that to anybody. My advice is that you need to go and work with the best people from the offset. If you get the chance to work with someone really good, you need to stick to them like glue; they’ll be the ones to teach you all their skills and introduce you to all their contacts.
YOU’VE HAD AN INCREDIBLE JOURNEY WITH YOUR PRODUCT RANGE. WHAT ARE THE BIG LESSONS YOU’VE LEARNT FROM THAT?
When I launched my brand in Boots, I felt like I’d won the lottery! I’ll always remember when, after six months, they basically said to me, “If you don’t double your sales in the next six months, you’re out.” One minute, I was looking at houses in the Hamptons and the next I’m considering cardboard boxes outside Piccadilly Circus! So, you can’t get too carried away. Also, when the range first launched, I thought I was being really clever by just copying all my favorite products from other professional brands. I quickly realised that you don’t get anywhere from copying; innovation is king.
IS THERE SOMETHING THAT STANDS OUT AS THE HARDEST PROFESSIONAL DECISION YOU’VE EVER HAD TO MAKE?
There came a point in my career where I was juggling so many different businesses within the hairdressing world. I had seven salons, a product line, I was on a retainer with Redken, I was doing TV work, as well as multiple other things – when you’ve got a lot of balls in the air, you’re going to end up dropping a few. I was speaking to one of my friends, Sean, and he gave me a great bit of advice. He said, write down on a bit of paper everything you’ve got going on, and then next to them write
how passionate you are about each one, how much time they take up and how much money they’re earning you. After I did that exercise, I realised that the salon business was taking up all my time and it was also losing me money. So, after 20 years, I made the decision to close all my salons down. My PR team was having kittens; they thought it was an absolute disaster! Looking back though, this was probably one of the best decisions I ever made because it filled that black financial hole. I was finally making money for the first time in my career, giving me the time and headspace to concentrate and subsequently open up 21 academies. There were 35,000 salons in the country at the time, but how many people had 21 non-profit academies teaching young people…? It ended up being a great marketing spin!
SO MANY PEOPLE THAT READ THIS MIGHT BE LITERALLY FIGHTING FOR SURVIVAL RIGHT NOW –PROBABLY BORROWING MONEY JUST TO KEEP SOMETHING GOING. IT TAKES PEOPLE LIKE YOURSELF, LEE, TO SAY THESE THINGS OUT LOUD, SO WE DON’T ALL THINK WE’RE FAILING. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL MOMENT RECENTLY?
When I sold my brand 18 months ago. ‘Making it’, for me, was always about being financially secure enough to never have to do a day’s work again. When I sold my brand, it was the first time in my life that I had financial freedom.
SO LEE, KNOWING ALL THIS, LET’S SAY YOU COULD REWIND YOUR CAREER AND START ALL OVER AGAIN, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY?
That’s a tough question, because I’m very happy with how my career panned out. I loved what I did, and I’m now living in Ibiza, never having to do another day’s work in my life. I’m very happy with my journey and with my destination. If I had to change something, though, it would definitely be going to have worked for someone ‘proper’, rather than starting off in the dining room.
IT’S INTERESTING THAT YOU REFER TO YOUR CAREER IN THE PAST TENSE, DO YOU STILL LABEL YOURSELF AS A HAIRDRESSER?
Yeah, I always tell people I’m a hairdresser even though I don’t do anyone’s hair anymore. I feel rusty now though – a bit out of the game. For the 42 years I was doing hair for, I was obsessed with it. I didn’t think about anything else; it was my whole life. It’s not like that anymore; my life now is my
kids, my wife and working out. I’m in a different place. My academy business is a non-profit venture, and I’ve got a general manager that runs it all. I’m just on the outskirts, checking in and showing my face from time to time. I’ve also become an investor and have a portfolio of properties, as well as having four young children and building a house in Ibiza – it’s hard to define exactly where I am.
WHAT ABOUT THE TIMES YOU’VE BEEN THROUGH WHEN THINGS WERE HARD. WHAT CHARACTER TRAITS DO YOU THINK THEY’VE TAUGHT YOU. DO YOU STILL TRUST PEOPLE?
solicitors involved. Trusting someone just off the bat is a silly move. Personally, I went through a lot of hard times, nearly bankrupt a few times, especially in the early days when I was trying to get my head around everything. When I went from the dining room to my first little salon, this tax man came out of nowhere – I thought, who’s this geezer?! It certainly wasn’t easy, but you’ve got to try to get motivation and inspiration from anywhere you can.
HOW WOULD YOU SAY SOMEONE CREATES SUCCESS IN THEIR CAREER? DO YOU THINK IT’S DOWN TO TALENT OR IS IT A BIT OF LUCK?
No one’s got anywhere in the world without working hard, and I think that working hard can outdo talent most of the time. If you want success, you’ve got to grind harder and want it more than anyone else. Problems are going to come your way, but you just got to eat them problems for breakfast!
WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE?
The one person I’ve always admired and who ended up becoming a mentor of mine is John Frieda; his story inspires me so much. I interviewed him not so long ago, and one of the things he said really struck a chord: John went to work for Leonard when he was 16 years old – there was a couple of hundred people working in the shop and like 50 assistants, or something ridiculous. The day he arrived, all the other assistants said to him, “whatever you do, avoid the towel job” (because the towel room was right at the bottom in the basement, and the chutes from every floor would throw down the dirty, smelly, hairy towels for someone to wash.) It was a horrible job. Of course, at some point, John got that job. He also used to read a lot of Indian philosophy at that time, which taught him to do any job –no matter how small –to the best of his ability. So, when he got the job in the towel room, he made a pact with himself to ‘wash, dry and fold those towels like they were a piece of art.’ At some point, Leonard walks past and says, “who did those towels? I want him as my assistant.” So, John became Leonard’s assistant, learnt all of his tricks, met all of his contacts and gained all of his confidence. Then, when Leonard wasn’t available to do a Vogue shoot at the last minute, John stepped in. I heard that story and just thought, wow. I’d say that to any young person – if you get a horrible job, you may think it’s beneath you, but if you do it superbly, you are going to stand out and get noticed.
Lee, you’re looking great and living the dream. You’re my inspiration right now; don’t stop doing what you’re doing. Thanks for your time.
SALON SECRETS SOS
Continuing our new series, we ask a selection of stylists, managers and salon owners to answer some of the most common questions that salons around the country are facing today...
“One of my stylists has started getting complaints about their work and we are having to refund or redo hair colour at least once a month. How do I talk to them about their standard of work and the effect it is having on our reputation and profits?”
Marcus King, evo concept salon King & I
If a client makes a complaint, however small, the first action would be to discuss the issue immediately with the team member. You need to determine if they were just having a bad day or whether they may need more training in a specific area. If it’s a personal issue and not skills associated, you need to be aware of this too.
Set a timeline for improvement and, if nothing changes, have a further conversation about why it hasn’t changed – is there anything specific worrying them or stopping them from improving? People don’t make mistakes deliberately, so find out what caused the mistake in the first place.
I personally think you should deal with all complaints in as much of a personal manner as possible. You need to juggle listening to the client and staying calm with the stylist; always be nice and empathetic. From trying to resolve the situation, you will see more results from a stylist that feels supported and reinvigorated.
“is there anything specific worrying them or stopping them from improving? People don’t make mistakes deliberately, so find out what caused the mistake in the first place.”
celebrate improvements that are made.”
“Performance management is a great tool to help monitor, track and – in most cases –
Sian MacLaren, Headmasters Surbiton for L’Oréal Professionnel
As a salon owner, I would always address a client complaint within a stylist’s PFS (Personal Focus Session) – we have these with all our stylists every 6-8 weeks, but we often bring the sessions forward if need be. In that session, I would talk the complaint form through in detail, looking for patterns to see whether the stylist has being thorough enough during consultation or whether there is a technical/skills gap that needs addressing. Once we have narrowed this down, I would then put the support and training in place to improve the stylist in this area.
If there is insufficient improvement after this additional training, I would try and establish exactly why this is the case. This can be for several reasons: lack of engagement, lack of enthusiasm, lack of motivation or lack of satisfaction with the role. I would reiterate my expectations, explaining how their behaviour can reflect negatively on the brand, the salon and the rest of the team.
Sometimes, it’s a simple misunderstanding between client and stylist, which can usually be rectified through patience, kindness and listening to the client’s concerns. I always try to get any complaint clients back in with their original stylist to be reviewed (alongside a second opinion from another more-senior member of the team). I find that if they can rectify their mistake, they will learn from it and work to rebuild their relationship with their client. Obviously, if the client is reluctant to come back to the same stylist, we will endeavour to book them back in with one of the managers to rectify.
Performance management is a great tool to help monitor, track and – in most cases – celebrate improvements that are made. It’s a simple way of benchmarking performance and highlighting the efforts made by the individual over a set timeframe. This can be motivating not only for the employee, but for you and the whole team too.
Darren Fowler, Fowler35 for L’Oréal Professionnel
If you’re facing recurring complaints about a stylist’s work, it’s essential to approach the matter with a blend of empathy and professionalism. Start by scheduling a private meeting with the stylist to discuss the feedback – use specific examples of the complaints and the financial impact on the salon. You should emphasise that your goal is to support their growth and the salon’s reputation, so offer constructive criticism and listen to their perspective. It might also be beneficial to provide additional training or mentorship to help them improve their skills.
Should the stylist’s performance not improve, a more structured approach will be necessary. Implement a Performance Improvement Plan (PIP), outlining clear, measurable goals and a timeline for achieving them. Regularly review their progress and offer ongoing support. If there’s still no improvement after the PIP, you may need to consider reassignment or termination. Whilst this can be difficult, ensuring the overall quality of service in your salon is paramount.
To effectively manage complaints, establish a transparent and consistent feedback system. Try and encourage clients to share their experiences and take every complaint seriously. Also, ensure you are training your staff to handle complaints professionally, teaching them to listen, apologise and act promptly to resolve the issue. This will give you the opportunity to regularly review feedback and identify common themes and areas for improvement. Creating a culture of continuous improvement will not only enhance client satisfaction but also boost staff morale and salon profitability.
“You should emphasise that your goal is to support their growth and the salon’s reputation, so offer constructive criticism and listen to their perspective. It might also be beneficial to provide additional training or mentorship to help them improve their skills.”
COLOUR MY WORLD | SUZIE MCGILL
Continuing her exclusive new column, Suzie McGill, Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International and current British Colour Technician of the Year, discusses everything you need to know about colour trends for AW24.
OPALISING – This will be one of the hottest trends for blondes this season as it’s a great way to add extra dimension, depth and movement to those platinum shades. The technique involves blending through subtle tones of pink, violet and blue to give the hair a multi-dimensional finish that mimics the beautiful opal stone – the result is almost pearlescent, with such an incredible shine. For those clients feeling more adventurous, the hues of pink, violet and blue can also be intensified to give the hair a fun pop of pastel.
This season, Crazy Color has released a brand-new product line created exclusively for professionals. Developed in response to consistent requests from its community of colourists, the new Rapid Toners work to create tonal results on blonde shades in just five minutes, whilst also maintaining the health of your clients’ hair. With key Vegan ingredients – including Shea Butter, Grapeseed Oil and Sunflower Oil – the formulas moisturise, nourish and protect the hair to deliver beautiful results in record time. The new line of Rapid Toners includes eight shades that are easy to blend and mix, allowing users to create endless results with up to nine uses from a single tube. www.rdr.link/HBA002
Life in the Fast Lane memo
COPPERS & REDS – When it comes to this time of year, red tones always resurge. This time around, I predict that cherry cola and soft apricot will be two of the most dominating red shades for the season. Cherry cola is a great choice for brunettes who want to give their hair a subtle pop of colour, whilst soft apricot is beautiful for blondes who want to add richness and warmth for the colder months.
CALICO – For those clients looking to be more adventurous with their colour for the autumn months, a new trend will be making an appearance this season – calico hair. Taking inspiration from materials and giving the hair an almost ‘blotched’ and printed feel, the technique involves using a vibrant or contrasting colour from the client’s base tone and applying it in sections and highlights through the hair to give a multi-tonal effect. I expect to see lots of clients incorporating blonde, black and red tones into their look with this trend through highlights, money pieces and statement panels.
TIME TO HIT THE BOOKS! JAKE UNGER
According to HOB Academy Head of Education, Jake Unger, education is an essential part of your salon business and training your team should be your number one priority…
“The thought of education can provoke many different feelings – for some people it’s exciting to think of all the new things they will learn, but for others, it can feel like a punishment for not being good enough. This should not be the case. Whether you are salon-based or freelance, it’s crucial that we as an industry (and as individuals) are always looking to progress. The more our industry is respected, the more money we can charge for each service! Remember, continuously progressing will set you aside from the crowd. Staying safe and stationary will eventually lead to others overtaking you, so commit to getting better and better each and every day.”
JAKE OFFERS HIS TOP 4 TIPS FOR GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TRAINING SESSIONS:
1Research and choose the best provider that is going to help you to achieve your goals.
THE DATA DORK: THE IMPORTANCE OF MULTIPLE
PLATFORM REVIEWS.
As Pro Hair’s resident Data Dork and the Founder of salon review platform and insights generator, salonspy, Adam Thomas shares how salons can grow their reputation and increase visibility through multi-platform reviews...
Gone are the days of clients only looking at a single site for reviews! Today, most people search multiple platforms to get a comprehensive understanding of a business’s reputation. This means businesses need to push their reviews into various corners of the internet to stay relevant and trusted.
Clients typically explore these main areas:
1
Listing Sites and Directories: Consumers visit these sites because reviews are often verified and easily accessible. A TripAdvisor review, for instance, is typically more in-depth than a Google review,
2
Your Own Website: It’s crucial to link third-party reviews to your own website, making them easy to find, preferably on your homepage. This ensures potential clients don’t have to leave your site to verify your reputation. Avoid self-published testimonials, as they are often viewed as less trustworthy.
3
Your Social Media: If clients follow you on social media, it’s a great platform to post your 5-star feedback. Enhance these posts by linking the review to a before-and-after picture for extra engagement.
2 Come with an energy of wanting to learn. For the days you are learning, drop everything you know and become a sponge. Once the course has finished, you can choose which bits of information you want to retain and add to your existing techniques.
3 There is never a silly question; if you have a burning question, then ask it. As educators, we always prefer someone asking questions and getting involved.
4 When you get back to the salon, start practising the new techniques straight away; don’t wait for the perfect time. The quicker you adopt and practice the new techniques, the more likely they are to become
This month, Pro Hair continues to shadow award-winning colour expert and international educator, Carolyn Newman, through her exclusive mentorship programme – Be Your Best.
Following her personal goal of giving back to the industry through supporting the future generation of hairdressers, Carolyn’s latest trainees come from Melanie Richard’s Hair & Beauty, an award-winning Aveda and Great Lengths salon in Peterborough. The programme will see Carolyn train the salon’s young team members: Fran and Nicole, who have been on the salon floor a little while, and Tilly, who just recently graduated.
This first session, ‘Confidence’, focused on consultation education. This involved learning exactly how to create a strategic consultation style in order to retrieve the exact information you need from the client, as well as understanding what key questions to ask and how to perform face shape and skin tone analysis. The afternoon session then concentrated on foiling work, balayage techniques – including foilyage – and how to achieve the perfect face frame for every client.
‘CAROLYN
WAS AMAZING! SHE HELPED ME PERFECT AND LEARN SO MANY NEW THINGS, INCLUDING HOW TO GROW IN CONFIDENCE FOR MY CONSULTATIONS AND LIGHTENING TECHNIQUES. I CAN’T WAIT FOR THE NEXT SESSION!’ NICOLE
TIRED OF NO TIPS?
With the cost-of-living crisis hitting everyday essentials, salons and hairdressers have long been feeling the pinch. As a result, tips have become an important aspect for staff and salon owners to increase their earnings and encourage staff retention.
With this in mind, Phorest Salon Software is now offering a simple digital solution to enable employees to successfully receive tips in compliance with the new Allocation of Tips Act. Rather than tips all ending up in one distributable pot, employees can now receive their hard-earned tips direct to their bank account via the new PhorestTips system.
By encouraging salon businesses to accept tips via the PhorestPay Card Terminal, employees can stay tax compliant and view records of their own tips throughout the year. www.rdr.link/HBA021
I LIKE BIG BONDS AND I CANNOT LIE!
THE NEXT LEVEL OF BONDING
After years of research conducted by expert scientists, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL introduces the next level of bonding with FIBRE CLINIX .
Meet the BONDFINITY METHOD, a fully customisable in-salon service offering long-lasting results that keep reactivating at home. INFINITELY.
Completing the bonding journey, the FIBRE CLINIX at-home ranges are infused with new dedicated skincare ingredients, working to charge the hair with customised benefits no matter your client’s unique hair type or concern.
NEW SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
MULTI-PEPTIDE
Multi-peptides are short amino acid chains that are known to strengthen, firm and lift the skin to promote skin renewal, reduce visible signs of aging and the appearance of fine lines.
The FIBRE CLINIX Fortify range uses multi-peptides to strengthen and replenish the hair fibre with powerful actives to reduce breakage and resist damage.
AHA
In skincare, AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) is known for smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin tone and texture and unblocking and cleansing the pores.
The FIBRE CLINIX Vibrancy range uses AHA to prolong colour intensity for enhanced vibrancy and shine. The optimal pH 4.5 helps rebalance and tighten the hair structure, protecting colour from fading.
ELECTROLYTES
Electrolytes in skincare are minerals that are essential for maintaining the skin’s hydration, strengthening the skin barrier, providing antioxidants and revitalising tired or damaged skin.
The FIBRE CLINIX Hydrate range uses electrolytes to moisturise the hair and revive dry strands, leaving hair hydrated, bouncy and silky.
PASSIONFRUIT OIL
Passionfruit Oil is a lightweight, nourishing oil used in skincare to enhance skin elasticity, replenish and soothe the skin and provide protection from environmental stressors.
TARGETED AT-HOME MAINTENANCE
The FIBRE CLINIX De-Frizz range uses Passionfruit Oil to smoothen the hair and reduce frizz, leaving hair more manageable and defined.
FORTIFY
Formulated for: Highly damaged and over-processed hair.
Targeting hair that is damaged from repetitive bleaching and styling, the Fortify range works to return strength to the hair as well as resisting future breakage at the same time.
Formulated for: Dry and brittle hair.
For dry or curly hair in need of extra moisture, the Hydrate range will leave the hair looking and feeling silky, bouncy and moisturised for up to 48 hours.
VIBRANCY
Formulated for: Coloured hair.
A best fit for coloured hair, the Vibrancy range not only brings out the hair’s vibrant colour and shine, but it also prolongs the colour’s longevity and protects it from fading too.
Formulated for: Coarse and unmanageable hair.
For hair that is frizzy and unruly, the De-Frizz range works to smoothen the hair and reduce frizz for up to 48 hours, achieving a beautiful shine and sleek result.
HYDRATE
DE-FRIZZ
THE LONGand theSHORT OF IT!
HOW TO WORK WITH CELEBRITY CLIENTS
Extensionist to the stars and Co-owner of an award-winning London salon, Inanch Emir is proof that hair extensions are a lucrative service to add to your menu. However, whilst establishing a celebrity clientele is a major boost for any hairdresser, how do you actually attract those A-listers?
If you’re wanting to work with celebrities, there are various things you need to consider. You’ll need to be prepared to work outside of normal working hours or on location at a last-minute appointment request. It’s also important to remember that whilst celebrity clients may attract interest on social media, some will wish to remain private about their hair. This said, however, these types of clients can really help raise your profile within your area and the consumer press too.
Here are my top tips for becoming the go-to hair expert for celebrities:
BE AN EXPERT
Celebrity looks are constantly under scrutiny, particularly in the age of social media. These individuals need to have absolute confidence in any professional involved with creating their image, including their extensionist. If you want to attract a celebrity clientele, you need to be at the top of your game. Creating natural looks that blend seamlessly with the client’s own hair is a must when celebrity images are shared thousands or millions of times on social media platforms. Before you even think about trying to attract this kind of clientele, master your craft through education, constant practice and investing in the highest quality product.
BE VISIBLE
Social media opens up huge opportunities for creating and sharing your portfolio of work, but this is the case for everyone! You need your work to stand out, particularly if you want it to catch the attention of celebs. Taking images on your phone is fine, but make sure they showcase the quality of your work with great composition and lighting – also ensure all the hair is actually visible! Show off how seamlessly you can blend and how accurately you can match colour.
NUTURE PARTNERSHIPS
NETWORK
The world of hairdressing is extremely sociable, and many stylists you’ll meet at industry events will have a celebrity clientele. Don’t be shy about introducing yourself to celebrity hairdressers, they love to talk about their work and the celebs they work with. Some of these hairdressers may not have the same level of extensions expertise as you, so they might jump at the chance of collaborating.
The chances of landing an A-list celebrity client from day one is tiny, but there are plenty of minor celebs and ambitious influencers out there for you to make contact with. Choose who you align with carefully; you want them to reflect your brand. Once you have established these relationships, encourage them to tag you in their own images on social media and check that they are happy for you to shout about the looks you create for them. If they are building their own careers, they’ll be more than happy to be seen on your social platforms. And who knows, they could be future A-listers!
“It won’t happen overnight, but if you establish a reputation for expertise, professionalism and discretion, those celebrity clients should be clamouring for your services.”
OFFER A VIP SERVICE
If you work from a salon, consider creating a VIP room where clients can enjoy an extensions service with privacy. Become known for your highly professional service and for all those little extras like complimentary fizz and nibbles. Also, you want to gain a reputation as someone that can be trusted not to share sensitive information. It won’t happen overnight, but if you establish a reputation for expertise, professionalism and discretion, those celebrity clients should be clamouring for your services.
Thicker, Fuller Hair
“I wish the hair around my face was thicker…” “My colour fades – what do you recommend?” with GREAT LENGTHS
How often do your clients say the following...?
‘The brand-new Thicker Fuller Hair service from Great Lengths can be added onto a client’s appointment to address their hair concerns in minimal time, while boosting your salon profits. Our award-winning GL Tapes Slim offer fast, professional results, helping to enhance volume and length, or add strength and definition to a haircut. It can even be used to create chemical-free colour effects.’
JOSCELIN MCCOURT, CEO OF HB COLLECTIVE, HOME OF GREAT LENGTHS HAIR EXTENSIONS
“My hair is so fine; I’d love more volume!”
Now you can address your clients’ most common hair challenges AND increase salon profits with the THICKER FULLER HAIR service from GREAT LENGTHS .
Promising fast, professional results without permanent commitment, GL Tapes are a sure-fire way to achieve thicker, fuller hair.
Application takes minimal time and Great Lengths’ groundbreaking technology ensures the condition of the natural hair isn’t compromised. Featuring an ultra-fine, latex-free adhesive strip that is virtually undetectable in the hair, the results last around six weeks. The hair can then be reapplied at two additional appointments, promising THICKER FULLER HAIR for a total of 18 weeks.
The THICKER FULLER HAIR service also serves as an ideal way to introduce non-colour clients to the possibilities of a colour service, without the commitment or the use of chemicals. Create instant tonal blends and balayage effects or go bold with fashion colours, all at the same time as boosting volume and adding fullness.
THICKER FULLER HAIR targets some of clients’ most common hair challenges, creating results that are natural looking and easy to manage. What’s more, once your clients have experienced the benefits of GL Tapes, those who are prepared to commit to a more permanent solution can progress to Great Lengths Keratin Bonds. (These bonds can create the same volume and fullness, but with results that last around six months.)
Interested in becoming a Great Lengths certified stylist? Please email sales@greatlengthshair.co.uk or call +44 (0) 113 278 1292 to speak to the Great Lengths team.
WWW.RDR.LINK/HBA023
THE LIFESTYLE BOSS
ONE SIZE FITS ONE!
It’s always been business first for Sheona Will. From starting her career at 15 as a Saturday girl to running a group of three thriving salons, Sheona’s astute commercial head has seen her grow a thriving network of salons. In her exclusive series for Pro Hair, Sheona shares her insights into how to run your salon like a boss. This issue, she talks about the importance of adapting your business to a ‘one size fits one’ approach…
Looking back over my career, it’s amazing to see how much the hairdressing industry has changed. When I first started in 1984, everything was a ‘one size fits all’ kind of deal. At that time, schools pushed their leavers into more vocational paths, as opposed to today where there is more of an academic push. Training was also all about apprenticeships – you learnt by watching and doing, and there wasn’t much focus on precision cutting or technique. Essentially, we were like human hair clips until someone decided we were ready to move on.
The ‘one size fits all’ approach in hairstyles translated into both the services and to the business too – there was one price point, one appointment time and only a handful of options on the services menu. This meant wages were paid as standard, so the really successful team members were similarly paid to those who were less busy or sought after.
PERSONALISING THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE
the training of an established, reputable salon behind you – you could really win! Earning potential had grown, it was possible to demand a higher salary depending on how busy you were or how many guests you had and retained.
This allowed me to learn the metrics of my business, and how to use and apply them in order to establish a career ladder. I delved deep under the surface in terms of pricing, pay structures, measuring some really important numbers to inspire organic growth. I also focused equally on guest recruitment, retention and increasing spend – aka, getting more from what you have!
“Running a salon has taught me that a approachpersonalised is just as important for styling hair as it is for managing a team.”
Fast forward to today and the industry has completely transformed. Clients don’t want cookie-cutter hairstyles anymore; they want something unique. This means every appointment and consultation is tailored specifically to each client. For instance, the introduction of foil partial colouring techniques shifted us from hoping the highlights landed in the right place to placing colour in a more bespoke way, opening up a whole spectrum of colour choices.
For me, creating a personalised experience for each client is about more than just their hair; it’s about how they feel when they walk out of the salon. My goal is to make every visit transformative and immersive, ensuring no two experiences are ever the same.
CULTIVATING A PERSONALISED TEAM ENVIRONMENT
When I opened my first salon in 1998, I began to see things from a new perspective. The hairdressing industry had already started to move away from the ‘one size fits all’ approach. My transition from team member to salon owner was a steep learning curve too. The industry was strong and – if you had
PERSONAL GROWTH AND CAREER DEVELOPMENT
Recently, where I have reviewed my core values and business strategies, I have embraced the ‘one size fits one’ philosophy for both my team and my clients more and more. Each team member and client is unique, and our approach needs to reflect that. Running a salon has taught me that a personalised approach is just as important for styling hair as it is for managing a team. Attracting and retaining talent has always been a challenge – especially with the perception of long hours and low pay in hairdressing – but I’ve found that offering flexibility, growth opportunities and a supportive work environment makes a huge difference.
‘ONE
SIZE FITS ONE’
The shift from a ‘one size fits all’ to a ‘one size fits one’ mindset in every aspect has been a gamechanger for me and my salon. The right team at the right time is a constant balancing act, coupled with the human side of things – confidence, wellbeing, mental wellness and physical ability (all those aspects that really weren’t apparent in the 80s and 90s!).
Ultimately, recognising and celebrating differences – at the same time as maintaining an individual approach – has been key in creating a dynamic and fulfilling environment for my clients, my team and myself.
THE LESSONS I’veLEARNT...
ABOUT ENTERING AWARDS
Tracey Ann Smith has been entering national hairdressing competitions for the last 20 years, gradually forming a track record that has secured her position as one of the most successful female hairdressers of all time. By her own admission, however, this was certainly no easy task, and she has spent these last two decades trying to perfect the difficult art of photographic awards entries.
My very first awards shoot was in 2004. I booked a studio in London, sourced a photographer and took my models with me. I didn’t have a clue what I was doing and the studio was awful! I created five pictures, and they were ok, but I didn’t finalise for any awards.
I tried again the following year, and I finalised for the Scottish region at the
1
Choose your team carefully
British Hairdressing Awards. Even though I’ve finalised for this category every single year since, nothing will beat the feeling of that first time. I clearly remember opening the envelope and screaming; I fell on the floor and I couldn’t believe it! I attended the awards with my dad, and I still remember every minute of it.
Ilearn something new every time I create a collection, but I always feel there’s room for improvement. Creating a winning collection is a delicate balance because you need to be with a team where the trust and vision is aligned, and sometimes that costs more. You can cut corners and make financial savings, but you have to be at the top of your game to do this. If you are learning, you can’t cut corners, and if there’s a weak link in the team, it will let the whole shoot down.
2 Choosing the right model is everything
My number one piece of advice is to choose the right model. With any image, you will always see the face first, so they have to fit the brief. It is important to push boundaries, but if you are coming through the ranks and finding your aesthetic, then remember that less is more.
3 Prepare every element
The best award shoots are all down to prep. The biggest thing that will let you down is not turning up fully prepared. I run my shoots with military precision and time everything to the minute to stay on track. I have sheets for each model with times, pictures of everything, hair pieces, wigs and visuals for every single look – all of that prep takes months, but it’s worth every bit of effort on the day.
I didn’t win, but I didn’t care. I was so happy to be amongst the greatest hairdressers in the world. Since then, I have won more than 20 hairdressing awards, all of which I am immensely proud of. I wouldn’t say I have cracked the formula, but I have definitely learnt many lessons along the way…
4 Practice
The images don’t just magically happen; you have to know exactly how you are going to create each look and practise it over and over again. Of course, it is important to allow your images to evolve on the day, but being fully prepared through practise allows that to naturally happen.
5 Trust the process
It’s a team effort. If you have chosen wisely, you must trust the process. All looks evolve; they start with an idea and then develop into your unique work. Don’t say ‘that will do’ unless you are completely happy with it. I don’t stop shooting until I am completely satisfied.
6 Quit while you’re ahead! Lastly, there’s also something to be said for cutting your losses and moving on when a look just isn’t working. If you’ve prepared fully, you’ll have plan B ready to put into action! So, on that rare occasion, trust your instincts and move on.
HELP ME HAYLEY!
Combining her successful careers as a hairdresser and a psychotherapist, Hayley Jepson is a coach on a mission. Her coaching business, The Resilient Hairdresser thousands of salon owners, stylists and freelance hairdressers navigate the fast-paced and ever-changing working environment. Here, Hayley is on hand to answer your questions.
Dear Hayley,
I am so disheartened right now; I really feel like throwing the towel in. Recently, I put my prices up for the first time since we came out of lockdown. My expenses just kept going up and I was barely breaking even, so I didn’t have a choice! I was really stressed about this move as I know lots of people are struggling right now, but so am I! I thought my clients would understand, but after I sent out the text, I had three clients cancel their next appointment straight away. Some of the messages I received were really rude too.
I’m completely devastated. Why don’t clients understand how much it takes to run a hairdressing business? I’ve been hairdressing for over thirty years, and I’ve always relied on word of mouth to attract new clients. Recently, however, I’ve not been getting as many enquiries, so these clients leaving me is making me feel really panicked. I’m also worried about what they might be saying about me to other people. Honestly, the whole situation is making me feel like giving up; it all feels so much harder these days.
Any advice welcome, Helen
Hi Helen, this must have been so upsetting for you. I’m sorry about that.
I get it, you thought your clients would understand that the cost-of-living crisis affects you just as much as them, and they didn’t. If I were you, I would try to think of it like you just officially reached the limit of what they wanted to pay for their hair. I know it can feel scary when you lose clients –especially when you are concerned about money – but you have to remember that it’s nothing personal.
As for the client who was rude, I would say that says more about them than you. So, try and do your best to let that go. I wouldn’t give any energy to what people might be saying about you either. What are they going to say? “Myhairdresser put her prices up for the first time in threeyears and I’m appalled’?! You have been perfectly reasonable in your actions, so don’t let that occupy any space in your brain.
When you’ve been doing clients for such a long time before they leave, it can really make you question yourself. Here’s the thing to remember though: you may have lost
three clients, but I’m sure your price increase has absorbed that loss. Plus, you now have more space for new clients who will pay your new prices.
Either way, it sounds like you need a new plan and a confidence boost. You say you have been hairdressing for over 30 years, which makes us around the same age. I bet you remember hairdressing before social media – me too! You also say the referrals are not coming in like they used to, so it seems like leaning into your social media could be a smart move for you. Or how about asking your clients to leave you a Google Review? These can be great for when people are searching online for your business (it can also be a great confidence boost to read all the nice things your clients write too!).
Going forward, I would make sure your price increases are more regular. At the end of the day, you have to take care of yourself financially.
I wish you all the best Helen, Hayley
“LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! GIVES TWO HAIRDRESSERS A GLIMPSE INTO MARK’S WORLD OF SESSION STYLING AS HE HELPS TO BRING THEIR CREATIVE VISION TO LIFE ON THE PAGES OF PRO HAIR MAGAZINE.”
LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!
AS GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, MARK LEESON IS A NAME SYNONYMOUS WITH GLAMOROUS, WEARABLE HAIR. BEST KNOWN FOR HIS IMMACULATELY EXECUTED PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTIONS, MARK’S ICONIC STYLE HAS MOST RECENTLY SEEN HIM SCOOP THE ACCOLADE OF AHIA INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2024 FOR THE SECOND YEAR IN A ROW. MARK’S PHOTOGRAPHIC WORK IS HIGHLY REGARDED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, COMBINING TECHNICAL EXPERTISE WITH COMMERCIAL APPEAL, AND CUTTING-EDGE PRECISION WITH FLAWLESS, FEMININE STYLE. MUCH EMULATED AND INSTANTLY RECOGNISABLE, HE HAS CREATED AN ENTIRE BRAND WITH BEAUTIFUL HAIR AS ITS HALLMARK.
As a testament to his incredible talents as a boss and mentor, Mark’s five-strong art team under the helm of himself and CoDirector, Richard Darby, has also been internationally recognised, winning the IHA International Artistic Team of the Year award and picking up the main prize for Artistic Team at the British Hairdressing Awards 2023.
SO, WHO COULD BE BETTER TO DELIVER A MASTERCLASS ON THE SKILLS AND SECRETS IT TAKES TO CREATE THE PERFECT EDITORIAL SHOT? WE DELVE INTO MARK’S AWARD-WINNING FORMULA IN OUR REGULAR SERIES OF LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! WHERE BOTH BUDDING AND ACCOMPLISHED HAIRDRESSERS LEARN HOW TO CREATE FRONT COVER-WORTHY IMAGES.
“LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! is the ideal salon stylist’s introduction to session work. This issue, our two hair stylists – Rita Tuska and Marney Lian – were set the brief of creating the ultimate high-end editorial shoot. The styling was glossy and glamorous, but we wanted to contrast the hair and make it ultra-touchable with more of a raw, undone edge. Inspired by the new seasonal futuristic trends, our goal was to create a melody of wearable-yet-cool vibes that incorporated both structure and softness in shape and form. The result was a range of signature silhouettes perfect for the modern girl.
For this theme, we needed the hair to be free flowing with natural textures, so Revlon Professional Style Masters was just ideal. Great for photography, it doesn’t weigh the hair down and you can easily adapt looks from one to the next without residue. Most importantly, the hair still feels clean, and you end up with an ease and softness that delivers the exact result you need. The range is without a doubt my session secret weapon!”
LET’S TAKE A LOOK…
“There was such a sense of spontaneity about this day, which created a real buzz. Working with Mark was so much fun! He’s an incredible mentor and I learnt so much from him. The looks we created felt so high-end and editorial; it’s great to work on something that combines hair and fashion in one look. Mark has an instinct for what works in front of the camera, and I enjoyed putting my skills through their paces in that environment.”
MARNEY LIAN AT GRITT, LONDON
LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!
“Marney and Rita are both very talented stylists, so we let them have quite a bit of free reign when it came to interpreting the brief. On a shoot day, you always get a sense about whether you’ve created something special, and I was so delighted that we were able to capture some incredibly strong looks.”
MARK LEESON
“I was really looking forward to working with Mark and the rest of the team and it didn’t disappoint! I loved how the looks were more fashion magazine-based, and that Mark wanted the day to just ‘go with the flow’ rather than being too structured. We had a discussion before each look and came up with the ideas on the spot, this made the whole experience that little bit more challenging and very exciting. I had such a fab day with everyone; the vibes were just amazing and I’m so grateful to have been part of it.”
RITA TUSKA AT JOSEPH FERRARO, HARROGATE
MEET THE TEAM
“So much of capturing an iconic shot is about putting together a knockout creative team,” says Mark. “These are the people I have on direct dial who are masters at interpreting a brief and delivering all that you need to let the hair take centre stage.”
PHOTOGRAPHY | RICHARD MILES
An ability to push boundaries coupled with a keen eye for detail has established Richard as an innovative force within the industry, delivering distinctive and captivating photographic results.
MAKE-UP | LAUREN MATHIS
As a make-up artist with over 17
years’ experience, Lauren has an adaptable, quick and commercial approach that sees her fully booked throughout the industry.
STYLING | ANNA LATHAM
With a background in fashion promotion and styling, Anna has an eye on every emerging trend and has all the right pieces to pull together the most photo-ready looks.
BTS IMAGES & VIDEO | LIAM OAKES
Liam captures the kind of behind-thescenes shots that give a detail driven, access-all-areas view of the day. His video content is cleverly crafted and always engaging.
■ For this look, we used a rick-rack technique to create a line shape made from a panel of grips placed around the head. The hair was first primed with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS SMOOTH IRON GUARD, before being brushed out to expand and create this amazing pin-frizz texture. We then coupled this with straightened lengths to give structural volume and soft movement throughout the flow of the hair.
■ For these beautiful, free-form, random waves, a conical wand was used to give an elevated finish with natural-falling, soft tendrils. Teamed with a loose, broken fringe, the look was given a moveable appeal using REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS PHOTO FINISHER
■ A forward section of a three-strand fishtail plait was used to create this rockstar vibe. We twisted the finished plait and looped the hair into shape, before stretching out the braided sections to give softness and volume in the structure and to personalise the overall shape. A final blast of REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS GLAMOURAMA HAIRSPRAY set the look in place.
■ Simple, playful and sporty, this look was created by using a traditional three-strand braid and a strong middle-parting. The polished centre-parting was created on a base of REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE
MASTERS CREATOR DEFINING GEL, brushing the hair towards the ears in two symmetrical sectionsto create the tightness and structure needed for the lengths
CREDITS:
Shoot
Make-up:
Styling:
■ The hair was primed with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS
MODULAR MOUSSE, before creating boho waves throughout the mid-lengths to give a loose, undone vibe. This was then paired with a wide, curly fringe, which introduced a soft, eye-skimming panel.
■ The hair was primed with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS
LISSAVER, before two fishtail braids were plaited on either side of the head. This was then coupled with a three-strand braid on top, alongside a high, loose twisted crown and tendril fringe to create a dimensional shape and interesting silhouette. Combining structure and softness while using different techniques is key to this season’s futuristic trend.
BTS photography/video: Liam Oakes
Products: Revlon Professional
Creative Director: Mark Leeson
Director: Richard Darby
Hair Artisits: Rita Tuska at Joseph Ferraro and Marney Lian at Gritt
Photography: Richard Miles
Lauren Mathis
Anna Latham
GOING STAG?
Add some grit to your grooming with the new Sea Salt Cream from Dark Stag. This lightweight formula works to effortlessly amplify texture in short to mid-length styles, achieving a low-key, lived-in look with a long-lasting light hold and a natural, reworkable finish.
www.rdr.link/HBA003
GIMME GIMME GIMME, A MAN ...IN MY CHAIR!
HOW DO I ATTRACT MALE CLIENTS?
CHARLES ROSE, CRATE CHESHIRE
Use your social media. More often than not, people assume that hairdressers don’t cut men’s hair, but by posting just one photo a week on your socials of a male client’s haircut, this can really help to open the door to a whole host of new clients.
Advertise your colour offerings. Colour is making a real impact in the barbering and men’s hairdressing world right now. Grey coverage, blonde highlights and all-over bleaching are just some of the colour options that my male clients are asking for more frequently at Crate Cheshire.
Offer vouchers to the partners of your existing female clients. By offering partners a discount on their first haircut with you, this is a clever way to encourage new male clients to get booked in with you.
Charles Rose
GET THE LOOK: MEN’S WET CURLS
An ideal choice for your curly clients, this popular style works to accentuate the natural curls and add extra volume:
STEP 1: Set a low fade line and fade the hair through the back and sides, following the contours of the head.
STEP 2: Clean your work area thoroughly with a Denman fade brush for a great fade.
STEP 3: Using scissors over comb, blend the fade through to the crown length.
STEP 5: Thoroughly wet down the hair and add a light gel or mousse for hold and a glossy finish. Work the product through the hair with a Jack Dean by Denman D3 Original Styler.
STEP 7: Use the Denman D25 Fantail Comb to lift, loosen and arrange the curls.
STEP 4: Cut a square layer, working back to front through the top section. Use a pointing technique or the ends of texturising scissors to add texture.
SHORT HAIR SHOWS UP!
STEP 6: Using your fingers,diffuse slowly at the roots to add volume. Avoid overhandling the perimeter of the curls to prevent frizz.
THE COVID HANG-OVER HAS FINALLY ENDED, SO WE CAN SAY GOODBYE TO ALL THE LONGER LOOKS THAT MEN WERE LOVING POST PANDEMIC. I’M SEEING A LOT OF HAIR GOING SUPER TIGHT IN THE BACK AND SIDES, WITH MODERATE LENGTH THROUGH THE CROWN. THIS COMING SEASON WILL BE PACKED WITH DIVERSE TEXTURE – WHETHER THAT’S ACCENTUATING NATURAL TEXTURE WITH A SEA SALT PASTE AND A WIDE-TOOTH COMB LIKE THE DENMAN FANTAIL, OR ADDING ROOT LIFT AND A SIDE PART TO POLISHED, STRAIGHT HAIR. IT DEFINITELY FEELS MORE YOUTHFUL AND FRESHER THAN THE LAST FEW SEASONS. MIKE TAYLOR, DENMAN CREATIVE
I ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT I’M NOT DOING THE SAME SORTS OF CLIENTS OR HAIRCUTS OVER AND OVER AGAIN. WHILST THIS MAY BE THE REALITY OF SALON LIFE, I BELIEVE IT DOESN’T SHOWCASE THE VARIATION OF MY SKILLSET.
JJ SAVANI, MEN’S SESSION STYLIST AND EDUCATOR
Mike Taylor
I HEARD
IT
THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE
GUYS TALK JUST AS MUCH AS GIRLS ABOUT WHO CUTS THEIR HAIR, SO IT’S IMPORTANT TO STAY PROUD IN YOUR WORK AND REALLY ATTRACT THAT WORD OF MOUTH. IT’S YOUR AIM TO GIVE THAT CLIENT THE BEST HAIRCUT THEY’VE EVER HAD, WHETHER THAT’S MAKING IT MORE PREMIUM WITH A SIMPLE TAPER OR DOING SOMETHING TO ELEVATE THE SERVICE THAT AN ORDINARY BARBERSHOP DOWN THE ROAD DOESN’T OFFER. DO SOMETHING MORE AND, CHANCES ARE, YOUR CUSTOMERS WILL TURN INTO LOYAL CLIENTS WHO WILL SOON BE TELLING THEIR FRIENDS, FAMILY, SONS AND BROTHERS ALL ABOUT YOU – TRUST ME!
GEORGE SMITH, SMITH ENGLAND
MODERN MULLETS AND SLICKED-BACK STYLES
KEVIN LUCHMUN, ANDIS
INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM LEADER
The Modern Mullet: The mullet continues to evolve, and we’re seeing a much more refined and stylish take for 2024. As we move into autumn, expect to see mullets with softer transitions between the shorter front and longer back, creating a more-wearable and contemporary look, as popularised by fashion-forward labels.
Slicked-Back Styles: Sleek, slickedback hair is making a comeback. As we recently saw on the runways of Louis Vuitton, we can expect centre-partings, longer lengths and wetter textures to trickle down to the salon floor.
Natural Curls: Embracing natural curls and waves is another key trend this year. A recent campaign by JW Anderson, for example, showed models with loose, natural side-partings and wavy, shiny and healthy-looking styles – rather than something too set. This makes the final result more wearable and irregular, emphasising the importance of embracing one’s natural hair texture.
Kevin Luchmun
GUYS ARE STARTING TO PLAY WITH COLOUR MORE, AND THIS IS REALLY EXCITING TO SEE! OPTING FOR WARMER, CREAMIER BLONDES AS OPPOSED TO STARK WHITES AND SILVERS, MEN ARE GRAVITATING TOWARDS SOFTER APPLICATIONS LIKE HIGHLIGHTS AND BALAYAGE, OR EVEN PLAYFUL PANELS OF COLOUR.
LOUIS DRIVER, AVLON EDUCATOR AND FREELANCE STYLIST
GUILT-FREE GROOMING
Original & Mineral has launched its clean, kind and sustainable styling tubs. The new range features the Paste – to create optimum texture and hold for an effortless style; the Pomade – to style slick backs and side parts with stronger definition and shine; the Clay – to help tame stubborn hair and provide an all-day hold with a matte finish. Each styling tub is PETA Certified, Vegan and made from 100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) material. www.rdr.link/HBA004
HOW DO I SPEAK TO MY MALE CLIENTS ABOUT HAIR LOSS?
KIERAN TUDOR, CO-FOUNDER OF CENTRED
Let’s talk about the most overlooked aspect of most men’s haircare routines: the scalp. The scalp is the bed rock for healthy hair growth, yet it barely gets an afterthought! It’s time to change that.
My best advice for communicating to clients about scalp health and hair loss is to work in questions during the consultation: Is scalp health on their radar? Does hair loss run in their family? Various lifestyle questions, such as what they do for a living, can help you to understand their stress levels. Not to generalise, but men tend to love routines – especially when they’re simple! – so explaining how a regular scalp treatment can easily fit into their busy lifestyle is a huge selling point.
Be sure to explain all of the benefits involved in scalp health too: the decrease of scalp irritation, the cleaning away of flakes and build-up and the nourishment and stimulation of hair follicles.
TREND ALERT: THE TAPER FADE
COMBINING TWO HAIRSTYLES IN ONE –THE TAPER AND THE FADE –THIS IS A HAIRCUT THAT’S SUPER ON TREND RIGHT NOW. IT’S CONTEMPORARY AND STYLISH, BUT IT WILL ALSO BE A CLASSIC CUT FOR YEARS TO COME. THE WAY IT WORKS IS BY THE HAIR STARTING AS A TAPER AT THE TOP AND THEN CONVERTING INTO A FADE AT THE BOTTOM. I LOVE TO USE MATTE PRODUCTS LIKE POMADES AND PASTES WHEN STYLING THIS LOOK TO GIVE IT A FURTHER TRENDY FINISH, ESPECIALLY FOCUSING ON THE TOP WHERE THE HAIR IS LONGER IN LENGTH TO ADD EXTRA MOVEMENT AND VOLUME.
JIM SHAW, DIRECTOR OF TONI&GUY BILLERICAY
The next step is all about products. So, what is an effective scalp routine for men? Well, the easiest and simplest way to care for the scalp is with a targeted and effective scalp treatment. I recommend something like our En Root Scalp Oil, which is designed to do three things: stimulate, exfoliate and nourish. The invigorating formula, enriched with Rosemary Extract, Peppermint and Castor Oils, helps to energise hair follicles, increasing oxygen-rich blood flow to the scalp and helping to reduce the damaging effect that DHT can have on the hair.
The next best thing we can do for improving the scalp’s health, strength and condition is nutrition. Nutrient deficiencies often lead to thinning hair and hair loss, so a healthy, well-balanced diet is essential. Unfortunately, it’s very difficult to get all the adequate nutrients we need from foods alone, which is why I recommend supplementing with a high-quality, targeted nutrient supplement – like our Tender Love and Hair Supplement. These work to support the body with bio-available nutrients to contribute towards strong, healthy hair growth. www.rdr.link/HBA005
GET THE LOOK:THE TAPER DEAN GLEESON, WAHL EDUCATOR
GET YOUR LOCKS OFF HONEY!
STEP 1: Section the hair using a horseshoe pattern. This will allow you to clearly see the area you are going to create the taper in.
STEP 2: Using block graduation, establish the length you are going to be tapering into. This can be done with scissors or clippers over a comb.
STEP 3: Take your trimmers and, at a slight angle, create your first guide line from the temple to the middle of the ear. Turn your trimmers over and remove the hair under your guide line.
STEP 4: To make the taper extra clean, go back over it with your foil shaver. This will create the seamless blend you are looking for at the end.
STEP 5: Next, with your clippers set to a 0.5, push the guideline around 1 cm higher, adjusting your tapering arm to 0 to blend the line of your trimmers. Repeat this step, ascending through the guards, until you have no bulk left to blend.
STEP 6: Remove the final bit of weight using clippers over a comb. This will allow you to create graduation and control the shape of the haircut.
STEP 7: Create a clean, sharp outline using your trimmers. Be careful not to put the hairline too far back when doing this.
Step 8: the sides by over directing the horizontal sections to the block graduation that you created in the initial steps.
MOVING INTO A/W, I CAN SEE LONGER STYLES CONTINUING IN POPULARITY, BUT ALSO PIXIE CUTS AND PIXIE/MULLET HYBRIDS BECOMING A REAL TREND TOO. I’M ALSO SEEING A LOT MORE WOLF CUTS, WHICH IS EXCITING!
RYAN LEWIS, CLUB 13
TRADITIONAL ROCK ‘N’ ROLL STYLES ARE COMING BACK WITH A BANG THIS SEASON. THINK PIXIEINSPIRED, 90S TRENDS WITH LOTS OF TEXTURE AND NATURAL, EFFORTLESS STYLING TO FINISH THE LOOK. RINO RICCIO, MANIFESTO
HERE TO SHAVE THE DAY
Introducing the new Ingrown Hair Treatment from Murdock London, an anti-bacterial, deep cleanser crafted to defend against hairs growing underneath the skin’s surface. Using proven actives such as Salicylic and Glycolic Acid, this treatment works to exfoliate the skin to free up hairs, reduce inflammation and keep the surface smooth and bump free. This can be used anywhere that clients shave, wax or trim. www.rdr.link/HBA006
LET’S TALK TEXTURE
JACQUI MCINTOSH, AVLON EUROPEAN EDUCATION DIRECTOR
GET THE GUYS IN! SOPHIE CALTON, EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY
In terms of winning over male clientele, I would first say that having a barbering, grooming or short hair specialist within your team is paramount. Even better, upskill the whole team to be able to confidently service male clients – that way, there will always be someone available to book in with.
Equally, as men’s styles evolve – we love long hair on our male clients – make sure that your salon is promoting an inclusive environment so that any man feels comfortable walking through your doors, whether their hair is long or short.
I have also found that gents aren’t always open to change; even if they fancy something different, a lot may find it awkward to ask. It can be really beneficial to ensure you are on top of male hair trends, styles and techniques, this will allow you to offer something new and fresh for every appointment. My male clients are grateful when I suggest switching up their cut for a different style and they trust in my expertise.
Ultimately, retaining your male clients is the same as any other customer. Make sure you are consistent in rebooking, as well as keeping the communication and inspiration going through email marketing and social media.
Embracing natural hair textures is likely to continue in barbering and gent’s styling, particularly highlighting curls, coils and waves. Salons should be looking at offering low-maintenance cuts that enhance their clients’ natural textures. On that note, texturising is also another service that has resurfaced in male grooming this year. High fades are becoming less popular, but a tapered cut is timeless and versatile. These styles offer a clean, polished look, whilst allowing for variation in length and texture. We are also seeing intricate hair designs and patterns shaved into fades or textured hair. These designs allow for personal expression and creativity –which I just love!
IT’S EASY AS 1 2 3!
IT’S SO IMPORTANT NOT TO JUST FOCUS ON FINISHING PRODUCTS. IT’S BETTER TO CONCENTRATE ON SETTING YOUR STYLE WITH A BASE PRODUCT, AND THEN LAYERING MORE ON AFTER. FOR EXAMPLE, YOU COULD START WITH AMERICAN CREW’S PREP AND PRIME TONIC TO REFRESH THE SCALP AND PREPARE THE HAIR, BEFORE GOING IN WITH AMERICAN CREW’S ALTERNATOR TO SET THE STYLE WITH A FLEXIBLE HOLD AND ADDED CONTROL. FINISH OFF WITH THE DEFINING PASTE TO ADD THICKNESS AND DEFINE TEXTURE WHILE LEAVING THE HAIR WITH A LOW SHINE. THIS IS A GREAT WAY TO PRODUCT BUILD AND ELEVATE YOUR STYLING GAME.
IAN HARROLD, ATTITUDE MEN’S HAIR www.rdr.link/HBA007
Jacqui McIntosh Jacqui McIntosh
Jacqui McIntosh
THIS COLLECTION CAPTURES HAIR IN THE MOST RAW AND NATURAL WAY WITH PURE LIGHTING, UNCONTRIVED FINISHING AND ALL THE DETAIL CREATED USING CLASSIC TECHNIQUES. WITH NO FUSS OR DISTRACTIONS, THE PRECISE TEXTURE, MOVEMENT AND FINISHING OF EACH LOOK TAKES THE SPOTLIGHT.
Hair: George Smith, Smith England
Make-up: Katie Moore
Photography: Alex Barron-Hough
LUCKY #3
RECLAIM
Hair: Alex Burt, Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms
Styling: Salvage & Sawdust
Photography: Chris Bulezuik
ANDREW JOSE
Hair: Evelina Lundgren and Andrew Jose Make-up: John Christopher Styling: Alessia Photography: Jason Joyce
Quif
Art Direction: Adam Tudor, Wendy Berry, Sarah Dickenson
Hair Creative Direction & Colouring: Georgia Bell
Hair Prep & Styling: Adam Murphy, Kimberley Barker
Brooke O’Donnell, Brendan Hirst
Make-Up: Chloe Taylor
Photography: Marta Ferenc
Freelance forum...
Dear Lacey...
Welcome to another instalment of our monthly Q&A sessions with LACEY HUNTER-FELTON, the pioneering Founder of the co-working and freelance community: Hunter Collective.
Dear Lacey, how can I make sure I have time for my clients without it affecting my personal life?
Hannah Akerman, Freelance Cutting Specialist and Bridal Artist
Hi Hannah, great question. Getting on top of your schedule is the first step to managing your time. Knowing what you have booked, professionally and personally, three to six months in advance allows you to plan and communicate effectively with your clients. This foresight is essential for setting boundaries and managing your time efficiently, especially if you are working alongside other professionals.
That elusive work/life balance is tricky for many to find, especially for working parents, but creating time around childcare and family obligations is essential to distinguish between work time, family time and personal time. This balance allows you to be fully present in each aspect of your life, reducing stress and increasing productivity.
Another crucial factor is understanding when your clients are most likely to book appointments. Certain days of the week may be more popular with your clientele, so consistency in your schedule is key. Stylists who set specific days and consistently book appointments during those times find managing their workload and client expectations a lot easier.
Here are some practical ways I like to manage my time:
● Plan Ahead: I always take the time to review and plan my diary. Communicating your availability
with your clients and colleagues early is essential to avoid last-minute scheduling conflicts.
● Set Clear Boundaries: I define my working hours and make sure I stick to them. Doing this ensures my clients understand my schedule and respect my time – this includes setting limits on when I respond to texts and emails too!
● Coordinate with Colleagues: It’s so important to synchronise your schedules, especially if you work with other professionals.
● Balance Work and Personal Life: I try to identify exactly when I need to take personal time and be with my family. Clearly distinguishing between work hours and personal time really helps me to maintain a healthy work/life balance.
● Be Consistent: I have established a routine that my clients can rely on. This consistency in my schedule has helped build trust and created a steady flow of appointments.
I hope these tips can help you Hannah! Remember, time management and boundary setting are not just about being organised; they are about creating a sustainable career that allows you to thrive in all aspects of your life.
Have any freelancing questions you’d like to find out for yourself? Send your questions to Lacey right here: www.rdr.link/HBA008
Promoting or Discounting: What’s the Difference?
RUTH LUNDSTROM, CEO & Founder of The Freelance
Suite app, explains the difference between building your business and killing your reputation…
As hairdressers, we have been primed to believe that success is an over-filled diary. When we first make the step from the cosy comfort of an employed wage to the new unpredictability of freelancing, we often have tunnel vision of simply getting booked up. Or, we may be a seasoned freelancer, but the minute we sniff a quiet week or down period, we revert to a familiar panic tactic – the reactive discount!
Inherently, we all know that low
prices or a decent bargain will draw in a lot of people, allowing us to get booked and busy. However, it’s easy to become so focused on being booked and busy that we don’t stop to think what it could be costing us in the long run.
Reactive discounting fixes the short-term problems of cashflow and client attention, but it leaves us with bigger, longer-term issues like devaluation, profit losses, client disloyalty and pricing wars!
The biggest problem with reactive discounting is that it has zero strategy. It can put us into a never-ending cycle whereby we put out a sudden discount whenever we seem quiet, which can slowly condition clients to believe it’s actually better if they don’t book ahead at all because… there will be a crazy discount soon!
Putting out random discounts like this is also seen by our loyal clients; they may begin to wonder why they’re always paying full price, when others are not. This can make us seem disloyal and ungrateful to these valued clients, ultimately hurting our business and our brand.
This is why I’m a big advocate for promotions over discounting – and yes, there is a difference!
Promotions have a strategy built into them; they are planned and they help grow your business without making current clients feel devalued.
Here’s an example of a promotion to attract new clients:
● The Goal: To gain new clients.
● The Offer: A reduced-rate service with every colour.
● The Strategy: 80% of promotional clients to rebook before checkout.
This promotion would run for a limited time, ideally between 8-12 weeks. Run it successfully (with 80% of clients rebooking) and you’ll find yourself booked up with full-paying clients in no time. Remember, rebooking is crucial to converting clients from promotional prices to long-term, full-price status.
“Reactive discounting fixes the short-term problems of cashflow and client attention, but it leaves us with bigger, longer-term issues like devaluation, profit losses, client disloyalty and pricing wars!”
It’s also important to understand that whilst you may be making little-to-no profit during the promotion, the successful conversion of these clients is what will generate that high return on investment.
Plus, filling up your schedule with promotional clients is better than not making any money at all!
Also, consider offering ‘New Client’ promotions by asking current clients to tell their friends or co-workers about you – you’ll be pleasantly surprised how much they are happy to help.
It’s natural to shed and gain clients throughout the year, so running semi-frequent promotions will help to keep your diary full and create a surplus of clients on hand to take any availability that arises. This leaves you in a great position when it comes to increasing your prices and making sure that the supply and demand machine is well oiled.
Promotions don’t always have to be about gaining new clients, however, they could be about increasing your client’s average spend or introducing a new treatment to your service menu.
Whatever it is you want to promote, ask yourself these three things:
1. What is the goal?
2. What is the offer?
3. How will we maximise on this offer?
Through running promotions and planning ahead, you will never have to resort to reactive discounting ever again…
Mastering Your Craft
FHA Founder, SHEILA ABRAHAMS MBE, reiterates the importance of keeping on top of your skill set.
In the dynamic world of hairdressing, staying ahead of trends, mastering specialised services and continually honing your skills are crucial elements for any freelancer.
Here is my advice for how you can stay updated, enhance your skills and ensure your services remain top-notch:
Keeping Up with Trends
Fashion and hairstyles are always changing, making it essential for freelance hairdressers to stay updated on the latest trends, techniques and industry developments. Clients today are well-informed and often come with specific requests influenced by the latest fashions. To meet these demands, you must be proactive in your approach to trendspotting and skill enhancement.
“In the competitive landscape of freelance hairdressing, offering specialised services can set you apart.”
● Online Resources: The internet is a treasure trove of information. Platforms like YouTube, Instagram and professional hairdressing magazine websites offer a plethora of tutorials and trend updates.
● Professional Communities: Being part of a professional community like the Freelance Hairdressers Association (FHA) can provide you with targeted information and resources. The FHA offers members access to exclusive content, discussions with peers and expert-led workshops.
● Industry Events: Attending industry events and trade shows is another excellent way to stay current. These events often feature live demonstrations, trend presentations and the opportunity to network with other experts.
Continuing Education
Continuing education is vital for any hairdresser who wants to excel. It’s not just about keeping up with trends; it’s about deepening your expertise and expanding your skill set.
● Wella Bursaries and Indola Pioneers: These unique educational opportunities not only enhance your skills, but they enrich your portfolio with high-quality work that can attract more clients too. The Wella Bursaries offer full-day education sessions at the Wella studios, while the Indola Pioneers programme offers a year-long journey of workshops culminating in a professional photoshoot. (See the results of the last Pioneers shoot on page 55.)
● Online Training: We run weekly zoom training sessions for our members, covering everything from business advice to the latest
trends. These are also recorded, so they can be accessed at any point. It’s essential to seek out continuous education opportunities independently –look for reputable online courses, local workshops and certifications from recognised institutions.
Mastering Specialised Services
In the competitive landscape of freelance hairdressing, offering specialised services can set you apart. Whether it’s advanced colouring techniques, bridal styling or textured hair services, being a specialist can attract a dedicated client base.
● The key is to identify your passion and the services that are in demand in your area to make you the go-to hairdresser for those specific needs.
● Once you’ve chosen your specialisation, invest in advanced training. Look for courses and workshops that focus specifically on your area of interest. Consider creating a portfolio showcasing your work or using social media to attract clients who are looking for that particular service.
● Remember, practise makes perfect! Skill enhancement is not just about attending courses; it’s also about practise. Regular practise helps refine your techniques and allows you to experiment with new styles.
Staying relevant and excelling as a freelancer requires a commitment to continuous learning and skill enhancement. By leveraging online resources, engaging in professional communities, attending industry events and practising diligently, you can stay ahead of trends, master specialised services and build a thriving freelance business.
VOICE OF THE MONTH
“I’m a freelancer and...”
... these are my 3 top tips for anyone wanting to become a freelancer.
1 CONNECTION
After taking the plunge into the world of freelancing, so many doors opened for me. I threw my all into building my business, building connections within my local community and speaking to other freelancers for advice. The freelance community is huge, and everyone is so kind and helpful. I always thought it would be a solitary journey, but I have made so many connections with people that I have looked up to throughout my career (I never thought in a million years that they would even know my name!). I recommend you:
Freelance forum...
• Connect yourself with your local community; there are so many artists and communities out there that want to collaborate.
• Start locally; embed yourself in the local art and music scene, as well as local charities. This will not only help your business, but it will inspire you to be more creative and collaborative on projects too.
My name is SIAN ROSCOE. I’m a freelance hairdresser and UK Ambassador for Indola. I started my freelance journey in July 2021, soon after Covid, and it was the best career decision I’ve ever made.
2 NETWORK
Networking is the best way to get your name out there in the industry. Go to all the hairdressing events and just introduce yourself! Get talking to your hair heroes –the ones that inspired you to become the hairdresser you are today –and soak up any advice they give you. Put yourself forward to help them with any upcoming projects they might have, you’ll learn so much about the way shoots and shows work, and you’ll get to see how amazing collections are created. Don’t be too shy to follow up and maintain relationships with the contacts you make. My first step was to become a member of the Fellowship’s Project Colour Team. During this time, I gained so much knowledge from networking with the very best in the industry, forming some solid friendships that I still hold so close to my heart. I later became a member of the Fellowship’s Project X Team and applied for the F.A.M.E Team 2022 where I became a finalist. I took all the knowledge I had gained throughout these experiences and applied it to my business.
• Attend local events; participate in community projects and make a genuine effort to support others. Building strong, local connections will provide a solid foundation for your freelance career.
3BE YOURSELF!
Your vibe attracts your tribe! When you turn up as your most authentic self, you’ll draw people in with a similar mentality and drive as you. Show up as yourself; no one else can replicate your brand. Embrace your unique style and perspective, as these are your greatest assets. I remember being approached by a member of the Indola team, they wanted to tell me how much they liked my work and my style and asked if I’d be interested in working on a campaign with them. After finishing the shoot, they were really pleased with my unique style and offered me so many opportunities that I grabbed with both hands. This was the beginning of a beautiful relationship, and they eventually asked me to be one of their UK ambassadors. Since then, I have even had the chance to fly out to Madrid to work with their International Team on an exciting new project, all because I stuck by my authentic self from the very beginning!
Introducing the new and improved CARE & STYLE range from Indola…
Understanding your needs as a modern hairdresser, Indola believes you don’t need to carry an endless assortment of products to perform a diverse range of high-performing services. Enter the new CARE & STYLE range!
With brand-new hero products and multi-functional formulas to offer the greatest level of flexibility and customisation, Indola’s updated lineup now provides infinite ways to tackle the diverse needs of clients – no matter their age or hair type.
FOUR MORE TOEXPLORE
SMOOTH
–Controls frizzy, tangled and static hair.
–Creates healthy-looking
VOLUME
–Supports bounce and shine.
–Helps to thicken and texturise.
–Increases fullness in the hair.
TEXTURE
–Creates definition for smooth or heavily-textured hairstyles.
–Boosts memory effects for mouldable looks.
–Offers partial heat protection for up to 230˚C.
SUSTAINABLE STRENGTHS:
FINISH
–Supports shape and definition for all hair types.
–Promises a beautiful finish, including both shine and hold.
–Offers partial heat protection for up to 230˚C.
Without compromising on its professional performance, high-quality results or affordable price tag, the new CARE & STYLE range is now:
✔ 100% Vegan.
✔ Made with packaging comprising of up to 100% recycled plastic.
✔ Free from animal-derived ingredients, including Keratin.
A FRESH NEW LOOK:
Still offering high-performing formulas and infinite styling possibilities, the new and improved packaging is now:
✔ More clean, sleek and modern.
✔ Easy to access for more detailed and relevant information via QR codes.
✔ More eco-conscious, highlighting the switch to the range’s new Vegan formulas.
FOR MORE DETAILS, VISIT: WWW.RDR.LINK/HBA009
“This was the most exciting opportunity exclusively for FHA members. The group gelled together as a team, stepping outside their comfort zones to travel on a very special journey. The Indola ambassadors, Andy and Abbey Smith, shared so much valuable knowledge and experience, culminating in some beautiful images to be used in members’ portfolios. It’s not often such opportunities come along, and our huge thanks go to Indola!”
SHEILA ABRAHAMS MBE, FOUNDER OF THE FHA
INDOLA X FHAPIONEERS 2023
“You often see professional collections shared online and featured in magazines, but it’s not every day you get the chance to go behind the scenes and shoot your very own. Indola loved working with the FHA Pioneers of 2023, seeing them get handson with the products throughout the year and finishing with a fun day to shoot their very own model collection was great – the results were just incredible!”
ASHLEIGH WRIGHT, INDOLA TRADE MARKETING MANAGER UK
Creative Directors: Indola Global Ambassador Andy Smith and Indola UK Ambassador Abbey Smith Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Bella Green
“Our last day of the Indola Pioneers programme was spent creating an amazing editorial photoshoot with the Indola team – it was nothing short of electrifying! To create those stunning, voluminous looks that every client dreams of, the Indola Strong Mousse and Indola Texture Volume Dust were our absolute must-haves. Amidst this creativity, there was also such a sense of camaraderie and shared passion. The shoot was not just a collection of images, but a testament to the team’s artistic prowess and pioneering vision in the world of hair.”
RENEE RILEY
“Being part of the Indola Pioneers gave us a fantastic opportunity to create several ‘Street Style’ looks on our gorgeous model Alana. We created multiple looks –everything from a pin curl set and a brushed-out look using Indola’s Strong Mousse to an editorial ponytail using Indola’s Texture Foam. This day had such an impact on me –I never thought I would experience
“It was a privilege and an incredible opportunity to train with the Indola Pioneers group. The Indola styling products performed exactly as designed, and they’re now an essential part of my daily hairdressing kit. Creating an editorial look was a unique experience compared to my usual work. The styling techniques and product applications were unexpectedly different, using copious amounts of styling mousse and focusing on less volume to enhance the natural head shape. This was a valuable learning curve, resulting in a brilliant final look.”
JULIETTE CLARK
Hair Team: Juliette Clark, Val Horrell, Tina Heath, Ali Knights
Hair Team: Vici Hall, Joy Canning, Pauline Huntley, Sam Toogood
SHOP THE DROP!
1. BURSTING WITH JOI
2. BACK TO BACKCOMB
Introducing the newly relaunched D91 BackcomberBrush from Denman. Crafted to give the hair added volume and root-lift, the brush features durable, firm bristles for optimum teasing and backcombing. The handy sectioning tail is also ideal for taming flyaways as well as sleek updos. www.rdr.link/HBA011
4. LET IT SHINE!
Spectrum One Hair Extensions has launched its very first haircare range, beginning with this brand-new Shampoo and Conditioner Set. Crafted for natural hair, professional hair extensions, wigs and weaves, the intensely hydrating range promises to leave the hair frizz free, seriously shiny and ultra soft. Some of the key benefits include: Reducing dandruff, improving the scalp’s micro environment, replenishing the hair’s ability to balance water and oil and leaving the hair looking and feeling healthy. www.rdr.link/HBA013
Designed specifically for compromised blonde hair that’s seen long-term lightening services, JOICO has launched its brand-new Blonde Strong Detangler. This multi-tasking protector helps detangle those fragile strands while keeping them resilient and shielded from UV rays and heat-styling tools. Formulated with Vegan SmartRelease Technology, the product offers 72 hours of frizz-fighting humidity protection to keep blondes feeling soft and looking bright.
www.rdr.link/HBA010
3. A BLONDE’S BEST FRIEND
Created by hair stylist & colourist Anna Wiig, wiig ash is a new toning treatment that uses a unique violet tone to protect and repair blonde hair in just three minutes. Containing next-generation technology, the treatment helps to restore the integrity of damaged hair by reconnecting disulphide bonds to smoothen out cuticles for the ultimate glossy finish. Plus, with subtle shades of pink to create the optimum bright, creamy blonde, the toner also neutralises unwanted brassy, yellow tones.
www.rdr.link/HBA012
5. CRYSTAL CLEANSING
Introducing the new Crystal Halo Balancing Scalp Scrub + Shampoo from R+Co, a high-tech shampoo scrub that works to purify, cleanse and balance the hair as it transforms into a luscious lather. Expertly designed as a filter for both the hair and scalp, the formula energises follicles to lift impurities and rinse away dead skin cells. Made with Raw Sugar Cane, Blueberry Extract and White Mulberry Bark, the ingredients impart lightweight hydration and provide gentle, nourishing cleansing.
www.rdr.link/HBA014
6. ERGONOMIC INTELLIGENCE
The new Intense Hairdryer, in collaboration with Gamma, is the latest step in Kasho’s mission to ensure that stylists work with ergonomic tools that promote wellness. Offering exceptional performance, cutting-edge technology and a sleek, innovative design, the tool promises an efficient drying experience that reduces frizz and enhances shine. With Artificial Intelligence for temperature control, a reduced noise level and a smart memory function, the hairdryer allows for a personalised styling experience on every use. www.rdr.link/HBA015
7. SCAFFOLDING FOR YOUR STYLE
Shed [salon hair every day] has recently released its brand-new root juice, a structure-building spray foam that allows stylists to create scaffolding at the root to provide the hair with a firm foundation when styling. Essential for finer hair types wanting big, bouncy blowouts, the volumising foam lifts and plumps the hair directly from the root. The results? Thicker, fuller hair, without the stickiness. www.rdr.link/HBA016
8.
GET YOUR SOOTHE ON!
Harnessing the power of natural remedies, the new Soothe range from Fabriq offers an optimum blend of scalp care and hair nourishment for every wash. Comprising of the Soothe Shampoo, Conditioner and Tonic, the formulas feature anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial benefits to ensure comprehensive, revitalising scalp care. With Menthol, Biotin, Liquorice, Panthenol and an array of African & Amazonian Botanicals, the gentle ingredients cleanse and protect the scalp to leave the hair stronger, smoother and shinier. www.rdr.link/HBA017
9. READY FOR THE RED CARPET?
Combining its award-winning Infusion Keratin Replenisher and Intense RX Repair Serum, Keratin Complex has launched the Red Carpet Blow-dry Duo. Offering the ultimate primer for smooth and frizz-free hair, naturally defined curls or soft, beachy waves, the pair work to instantly improve the hair’s strength and resilience whilst also reducing breakage. www.rdr.link/HBA018
INTRODUCING THE NEW GHD DUET BLOWDRY; THE FIRST 2-IN-1 HAIR DRYER BRUSH THAT EFFORTLESSLY TRANSFORMS WET HAIR INTO A LUXURIOUSLY SMOOTH, VOLUMINOUS BLOW-DRY FINISH WITH ZERO DAMAGE.
PREPAR E TO BE BLOWN
Designed for use on wet hair, the Duet Blowdry uses Heat-Air Xchange Technology – an aerodynamic system that harnesses airflow to actively heat the barrel and snag-free bristles – to create salon-worthy blow-dries at home. Designed to work on all hair types, the optimal low temperature locks in the finished style for 24 hours without heat damage.
2-IN-1 Hair Dryer Brush
Wet to blow-dried in one tool. Streamline your clients’ routine by drying and adding shape to their hair simultaneously; offering a fast way to salon blow-dry at home.
Snag-free heated bristles. Precisely configured to glide through the hair effortlessly, without tangling.
Elliptical-shaped heated barrel plate. Shaped to easily create volume and get close to the root.
Controlled airflow. Air gently dries the hair through carefully-positioned vents for a flyaway-free and no-frizz finish.
Power Couple
Developed to work in perfect harmony with the new Duet Blowdry, the new ghd Volume Forever is a blow-dry cream featuring an advanced heat protection system. Providing an invisible and lightweight thermal protective layer to give confidence when styling with heat, the product also works to maximise the hair’s volume for that perfect bouncy blow-dry look.
ALL ABOUT THAT BOND!
BOND IT.
Offering a new in-salon service for long-lasting hair health, the new BONDFINITYMETHOD from FIBRE CLINIX creates strong, permanent bonds within the deepest part of the hair fibre.
BOOST IT.
The new range combines advanced bonding technologies with customisable services for perfectly tailored haircare solutions. Allowing you to boost your care services, no matter your client’s hair type, need or concern.
BONDFINITY IN-SALON SERVICE RANGE:
With an aim of locking in the hair’s own keratin and creating permanent bonds in the inner core of the fibres, the relaunched BONDFINITY service range uses advanced formulas and luxurious consistencies for up to 10 times stronger hair. Plus, with a new streamlined Booster portfolio, the service range now offers more focused customisation options. Featuring the three bestselling ranges – Fortify, Vibrancy and Hydrate – the increased packaging size (100ml) allows for a greater amount of usage/services per bottle.
MEET THE POWERFUL PORTFOLIO ADDITIONS:
FIBRE SEALER: A lightweight repair leave-in cream that instantly and visibly helps seal 94% of split ends. The fast-absorbing formula provides frizz control for up to 48 hours as well as heat protection of 230°C.
INSTANT INFUSION CONCENTRATE: A quick repair service with instant results for ultra-smooth, glass-like hair. Working to revitalise the inner hair fibre, the transformative treatment offers immediate shine, moisture and elasticity.
PURIFYING SHAMPOO: A deep cleansing repair shampoo to provide long-lasting strength for all hair types. Gentle on both the hair and scalp, whilst effectively removing product build-up, dirt, oils and metals.
HARLEY BIRD
It was lovely to work with actress Harley Bird again, this time we got her ready for the National Film Awards in London. She has such beautiful, natural copper hair –it’s her signature look! As the jewellery and dress were quite sparkly, we wanted the hair to be understated with soft movement.
Booked..!
CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, GROOMER AND SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON, SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US –YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.
ROMAN KEMP X LEWIS HAMILTON
There’s a first time for everything, and doing hair on the lower deck of a speedboat was one of them! This was a really cool job for watch brand IWC Schaffhausen, where Roman and Lewis travelled down the Thames to the Mercedes and IWC exhibition at Battersea Power Station before the British Grand Prix.
@lukebensoncreative
THE TRIC AWARDS
Roman also hosted the TRIC Awards at London’s Grosvenor House. This was his first role as President of TRIC, so a really proud moment for him. It was a great event, filled with lots of celebrities and various faces from the television and radio world. There was also a fantastic auction to help raise money for charity, one of which being Roman’s choiceJoe’s Buddy Line, in memory of his great friend, Joe Lyons.
SHOW PREP
Between these great jobs (and my clients in the salon!) I’ve been busy prepping for some shows I have coming up in Croatia and America – keep an eye out in the next issue for my rundown of those. Beforehand though, I’ve been prepping lots of wefts with different textures, mainly by setting them on pins. Because the shows are abroad, I want to have as many options as possible to save me time once I’m there – then I can establish my final looks after I’ve seen my models’ hair types. Perfect preparation and all that…!
KEUNE AUSTRALIA
I had the amazing opportunity to fly out to Sydney, Australia, to present a double masterclass to 500 hairdressers for Keune ANZ. I had six models, and I wanted to showcase a mix of cuts, styles and textures to really show off the diversity of the products. Each of the models had varying blonde tones and white outfits to keep the ‘feel’ linked together. It was a whirlwind trip, but one of the best jobs of my whole career.
PRO HAIR AWARDS
Finally, I am beyond flattered and so proud to have finalised in two categories at the 2024 Pro Hair Awards. My new salon, Luke Benson Hair, has been nominated for Professional Independent Salon of the Year, and I’ve also finalised for Professional Hairdresser of the Year too. Good luck to all the finalists, I’ll see you at the final!
visit RUSH GUILDFORD
STELL ANDREW,
CEO and Co-Founder of RUSH HAIR
introduces us to the new and improved RUSH Guildford salon.
How did you decide on the style of your salon interior?
We wanted to relocate to a fresh, bright salon with lots of light. RUSH has had a salon in Guildford for 15+ years, so it was time for change. It’s a town we love, and we wanted to upgrade the salon to give back to our clientele, whilst still keeping it quintessentially RUSH.
Where did you find the inspiration for your design?
At RUSH, it’s so important to us that all our salons reflect the RUSH brand that clients are easily able to identify. Our designer understands this brief and always ensures that when we open a new salon, it has a clean and timeless feel but with a RUSH
edge. All of our salons mainly follow a minimalistic feel and look contemporary and stylish, but we always ensure to add features that will make each individual salon pop too.
Did you use an interior designer?
Yes! The salon was designed by Dudley Cummings, a RUSH salon designer extraordinaire who has worked across many salons within the group.
Describe the vibe created by your interior.
If I had to describe the RUSH Guildford salon’s vibe, I would say it is a perfect blend of minimalistic elegance and funky fun.
What do you hope are your clients’ first impressions when they walk in?
As we previously had a salon in Guildford and have reopened in a new location, we hope that many of the Guildford community will walk into our new salon thinking ‘wow,
How have you embraced sustainability within the design?
At RUSH, we are always looking for ways we can be more sustainable. When it comes to our Guildford salon design, we chose LED lighting as it is efficient, long-lasting and lower maintenance –making it ideal in terms of sustainability.
Some of our furniture in the salon is also made from wood, a more sustainable material that also provides the room with added texture and depth too.
Our product brand, Goldwell, also provides sustainable offerings.
Did your product brand influence your style of interior design?
We love the sleek, sophisticated look of Goldwell and KMS packaging, which fits in seamlessly with all of our salons’ designs.
what an improvement!’ As with all our salons, we of course want clients to walk in and immediately feel welcome, relaxed and excited for their appointment; they should feel extremely at ease knowing they are in the hands of respected hair professionals.
What are the key elements of your salon design?
One of the key elements of our salon design is the artwork. The salon is mainly black and grey with hints of silver, but we’ve added vibrant, funky artwork to inject some colour and to allow the salon to stand out. Alongside the artwork, we also have our RUSH collection imagery displayed on the walls of the salon. Client’s love seeing our creative work, as it further shows them our expertise and professionalism.
The flooring is another favourite element of our Guildford design. It is a contemporary grey stone which works to really brighten the room. This has been used across the salon which is two floors over 1200 sq ft.
Do you have any curated pieces or special features in the salon?
One of my favourite features is how we have designed the backwash in the salon with privacy in mind. The backwash area is at the back of the salon, and it has been screened with frosted glass with RUSH branding. We wanted this space to be a more tranquil area for clients to come away from the hustle and bustle of the main salon area and unwind and enjoy their hair washing experience.
Being a reputable professional brand, Goldwell and KMS products stand out within the salon to clients too, and we always have a nice display for clients to see easily should they be interested in purchasing products. At the Guildford salon specifically, we have black shelving beside our reception area displaying the products. This allows us to upsell retail before a client leaves the salon.
Do you have a dress code/uniform for your team?
As with the majority of our salons, we go with the unofficial hairdresser’s uniform –all black! We want our staff to feel comfortable when at work whilst also looking professional, so we usually recommend smart casual.
My happiest moments are always with my family. Holidays are such a precious time where I can spend time with my wife and kids; it makes all the hard work and long hours worth it!
5minutes with JOSH GOLDSWORTHY
Josh Goldsworthy, Creative Director for Goldsworthy’s, talks Marbella, Marathons and Metamorphosis
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?
I’m an avid runner, having completed three of the six Marathon World Majors (London, Berlin and Chicago) over the past three years. During training, I run over 70 miles a week, with a marathon PB of 2 hours 56 minutes and a half marathon PB of 1 hour 21 minutes. When I’m not working or running, I love spending time with my beautiful family – I have three kids, all under six. They are my world and keep me busy, which is also why I always look so tired!
CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION?
Metamorphosis is a bold hairdressing collection inspired by the edgy spirit of grunge, featuring vibrant colours like purples, blues, reds and greens. It showcases innovative techniques such as colour blocking and gradient shading, with daring cuts,
CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS AND WHY?
One of my proudest hairdressing moments is being able to share the stage internationally alongside my dad, Steven, and my sister, Sophie-Rose. Despite our various professional achievements and awards in the industry, nothing compares to these family moments. Looking ahead, we hope to perform as a trio –so, Pro Hair, you have the first option for the Goldsworthy Trio!
quick
fire favourites
1
TO EAT: WAHACA, I ALWAYS PAY IT A VISIT WHEN I’M IN LONDON. IT’S PERFECT FOR A VEGGIE LIKE ME.
TO VISIT: MARBELLA, SPAIN. OUR FAMILY HOME THERE HOLDS VERY PRECIOUS MEMORIES FOR ALL OF US.
2
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TO WATCH: A BINGEABLE SERIES WITH MY WIFE. WE STRUGGLE TO FIND ANYTHING THAT WILL EVER BEAT THE SOPRANOS FOR US!
TO LISTEN: I NEED BACKGROUND NOISE AT ALL TIMES, SO I ENJOY PODCASTS LIKE PARENTING HELL, THE FOZCAST AND WOLF & OWL FOR MUSIC, 00S HIP HOP AND RAP ARE ALWAYS MY GO-TO, ESPECIALLY ON RACE DAYS!
TO READ: AUTOBIOGRAPHIES
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TO WEAR: TRAINERS AND T-SHIRTS –YOU’LL STRUGGLE TO FIND ME IN ANYTHING ELSE.
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TO USE: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL COLOUR, I’M A COLOUR SPECIALIST AFTER ALL!
TO LOOK UP TO: MY PARENTS. I’M A FAMILY MAN THROUGH AND THROUGH.
