Professional Hairdresser November/December 2023

001_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:35 Page 1

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

W

MAR ITH

K LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

DPS NEW 2 separate pages_Layout 1 08/08/2023 09:19 Page 1

DPS NEW 2 separate pages_Layout 1 08/08/2023 09:19 Page 2

004_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:46 Page 4

10 OUT OUT

16 EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE with Errol Douglas MBE

with Carlo Oliveri

SPECIAL 33 XMAS Get your tills a’ tinklin’

CONT REGULARS

7

FIRST WORD

18

8

HEADLINES

22 STYLE MEMO

10

OUT OUT

23 COLOUR MEMO

Carlo Oliveri Mediterranean

24 SUSTAINABLE MEMO

Beauty Experience

62 BOOKED..!

12

OUT OUT Wella TrendVision Final

14

HOW TO FAIL Phil Smith interviews Russell Eaton

16

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE Errol Douglas MBE interviews Jacqui McIntosh

THE CRAFT OF CUTTING

BUSINESS

26 Sessions with a Socialite With Fergal Doyle 28 HAPPY LEADERS With Polly Rose 29 SAY IT WITH SOCIALS

Luke Benson shares his diary 64 VISIT

With Graham Clarke 30 NEED TO KNOW TRICHO

Luke Benson Hair, Berkhamsted 66 5 MINUTES WITH… Jordanna Cobella

With Mark Blake 31

HAIR ME OUT With Andrew Barton

004_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:47 Page 5

W

IT

H

MA

RK LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

42 Special Partnership with Revlon Professional

ISSUE 10 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

52

64

ON TREND Tim Scott-Wright

VISIT Luke Benson Hair, Berkhamsted

TENTS SPECIAL

PORTFOLIO

33 CHRISTMAS MEMO

38 CHRISTMAS RETAIL

52 Tim Scott-Wright

42 LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

58 Schwarzkopf Professional UK & Ireland Ambassadors

Special Partnership with Revlon Professional

38

05

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 23/10/2023 11:48 Page 1

007_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 17:14 Page 7

NOW THAT’S WHAT I CALL CHRISTMAS! We all know that the lead-up to Christmas and the New Year is the most hectic time of the year, with salons up and down the country going into overdrive as clients want to ‘get their glam on’ for the party season.

And there’s no better time to ramp up the retail to boost your takings at the end of a long, and let’s be honest, challenging year. Inside this issue we have a super seasonal treat for you as we deliver a cache of Christmas retail goodies to set your tills a’ tinklin’. Check out page 38 onwards and make sure you’re stocked up with gift sets a plenty!

As this is the last issue of 2023, I would just like to give a shout out to the amazing gang of industry contributors who have had regular columns with us this year. Huge thanks go to: Karoliina Saunders, Andrew Barton, Teresa Weller, Mark Leeson, Phil Smith, Luke Benson, Elena Lavagni, Mark Blake, Polly Rose, Graham Clarke and Errol Douglas, who have all shared their experiences and advice with you. It has been down to this dynamic cross-section of industry experts and creative passionistas that we have delivered such relevant and invaluable content to you, our readers.

From all of us on the Pro Hair team, we wish you a busy and profitable end to 2023 and we will see you back here in 2024. In the meantime, if you haven’t already, sign up to our weekly newsletters at www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk and keep an eye on our socials @prohairmag for some festive treats coming your way over the next few weeks.

Merry Christmas and a peaceful New Year!

@PROHAIRMAG

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Q @PROHAIRMAG

Editorial Director

Designer

Nicola Shannon

Donna Booth

nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch W

ITH

MAR

K LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF.

Commercial Manager Laura Jowsey ljowsey@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial & Sales Enquiries Phone: 01923 237799

HAIR: TINA LOMBARDI FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL

24,495

• July 22 – June 23

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BULEZUIK

Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year – £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year – £50 post paid Airmail: 1 year – £80 post paid.

To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.co.uk. ©2023 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

07

008_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:37 Page 8

@PROHAIRMAG

Q @PROHAIRMAG

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

HEADLINES ABLE SECURES PRESTIGIOUS ENDORSEMENT Andrew Barton London Education (ABLE), a training programme aimed at preparing college students for real life working roles, has received a significant endorsement from the Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT). Marking a pivotal moment in the company’s history, the endorsement further solidifies ABLE’s commitment to delivering high-quality education to aspiring hair professionals.

KAO SALON GLOBAL EXPERIENCE 2023 Kao Salon Division recently presented the eagerly awaited 2023 Kao Salon Global Experience, celebrating a sensational burst of creativity, innovation and inspiration.

This two-day extravaganza welcomed more than 2000 stylists from around the globe for an unforgettable showcase of extraordinary presentations, engaging artist performances and a thrilling live competition, all in the vibrant city of Chicago. Plus, the global event saw two incredible UK winners of the Editorial Colorist of the Year Award: GOLD – Stevan Dulay and SILVER – Caroline Brand.

FACELIFT FOR HERITAGE HAIRDRESSING EDUCATION BRAND Alan d Hairdressing Education celebrates over 30 years in business by refreshing its branding for only the third time in a long and illustrious history. With a new premises in London’s Farringdon, brand-new, skill-specific courses and a fresh new logo, Alan d strives to remain relevant to the needs of UK hairdressing students and their employers.

008_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:37 Page 9

ERGO BRUSHES LAUNCH IN THE UK

Professional hair extension brand, Remi Cachet, announces its first-ever Brand Ambassadors. With an aim of working closely with the brand to share their knowledge and expertise, the first ambassadors to be announced are: Stephen Hopper – owner of SH.Hair.NE in Alnwick, Alex Ferris – owner of AF Hair Extensions in Bradford and Christopher Laird – co-owner of The November Collective in Edinburgh.

Having been the choice for many leading stylists across the USA for nearly 30 years, ERGO Styling Tools has officially launched in the UK. Founded by Robert Reed in 1994, the brand’s primary aim was creating tools that are easy to use, ergonomically friendly and able to deliver long-lasting, shiny hair. Janie Tongue, Director of Education at ERGO Styling Tools UK, and her husband, Jonty Olivier MD, decided to bring the brushes to the UK after losing two stylists to repetitive strain injury.

ALFAPARF AMPS UP

FANCY A HOLIDAY?

THE TEAM GROWS FOR REMI CACHET

ALFAPARF Milano Professional has announced the appointment of award-winning colourist Lisa Whiteman as its Colour Brand Ambassador UKI and global educator Paul Falltrick as its Brand Ambassador UKI. Both possessing illustrious careers spanning over 35 years, the pair will add a new level of expertise to the professional product company.

FAREWELL RICHARD LAMBERT After more than 21 years as a chief executive in three different trade associations, Richard Lambert, Chief Executive of the National Hair & Beauty Federation, (NHBF) has announced his retirement. Amanda Lodge-Stewart, NHBF President, states, “We are grateful for all the hard work that Richard has dedicated to the NHBF, and wish him all the best in his future ventures.”

In partnership with Salon Promotions, Alterna has launched a competition for salon owners to win a £1000 travel gift card. Incentivising salons to stock up on their Alterna products ahead of the busy festive season, the prize money can be used for countless different holiday packages. To enter, salons must make an Alterna order with Salon Promotions by 21st December – order spend must be a minimum of £500 and each £500 spent is an extra entry. The winner will be announced on the Salon Promotions Facebook page on 22nd December.

09

010_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:37 Page 10

out out...

SICILIAN SMILES CARLO OLIVERI’s first ever Mediterranean Beauty Experience exuded a happiness and passion that has inspired his brand.

WELOVE brand partner, Carlo Oliveri, is a global session stylist who has created his own colour line using the best ingredients.

During the 2020 lockdown, Carlo created his luxury professional beauty brand which is 100% made in Sicily. Mediterranean colours, sounds and scents have inspired every product, from the selection of ingredients for the formulations to the inspiration for the hair colours.

“My brand tells a love story: Love for my land, love for my family, love for my grandmother and love for nature,” says Carlo.

Pro Hair’s Nicola Shannon was lucky enough to join the WELOVE community in Sicily recently for Carlo’s first ever Mediterranean Beauty Experience.

“With Carlo as our host, I think we all fell in love with Sicily. The passion he has for his homeland, for the nature and for his family gave us a true understanding of everything Carlo has poured into his beautiful brand, and to spend time with all the UK hair pros in the WELOVE community made it all the more special.” says Nicola.

010_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:38 Page 11

“I cannot describe how happy I am to have involved the WELOVE community in this magnificent Mediterranean Beauty Experience, discovering the places that inspired me in the creation of my Brand. Our long journey began in Taormina, followed by Syracuse, the island of Ortigia and the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. The adventure ended with a big party where we celebrated our love for Sicily, family, friendship and beauty in all its forms. Finding a community like WELOVE and an amazing soul like Rae Palmer was a great fortune for me. From the moment I met her, we have shared the same values for the future of the industry.”

– Carlo Oliveri

“At WELOVE, we believe in collaboration over competition. With this in mind, we prefer to partner with brands that support our industry – our friend and brand-partner, Carlo Oliveri, does just that. Through sharing his homeland with us on the Mediterranean Beauty Experience, Carlo gave the whole WELOVE community invaluable memories that we will never forget.”

– Rae Palmer, Founder of WELOVE

11

012_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:38 Page 12

out out...

WINNING WITH WELLA Wella Professionals wows with the TrendVision Award 2023 UK & Ireland Final.

Making its return to the state-of-the-art Magazine London, the TrendVision Award 2023 UK & Ireland Final saw more than 700 guests join the Wella Family to celebrate the best in British and Irish hairdressing. The night was also attended by The Little Princess Trust – a charity that gives hair and hope to children with cancer, which Wella proudly supports.

Overlooking the stunning London skyline, the live event saw finalists compete in their given category over two days, culminating in a winners’ showcase where their final looks were revealed. Demonstrating just what can be achieved with the Wella Professionals colour portfolio, some exceptional craftsmanship was displayed.

The atmosphere was buzzing as the evening got underway with a cocktail reception. Hairdressing legend and Wella family favourite, Patrick Cameron, hosted the night, with Fergal Doyle making the perfect co-presenter.

A gala dinner was preceded by a variety of hair shows from leading Wella artists. The incredible line-up of show artists included Cheynes, Cobella, Francesco Hair Salons, HOB Academy, Lara Johnson Lifestyle, Nikki Clifford from NJUK, Simon Tuckwell and Stil, with each show demonstrating the Wella colour portfolio in its finest light.

With the winners announced, the celebrating continued with an entertaining DJ set and an epic display of fire breathers who ensured guests partied the night away.

THE WINNERS COLOUR VISIONARY UK WINNER: PAOLO SILVERI, REGIS COLOUR VISIONARY IRELAND WINNER: JODIE QUINN, HOUSE OF COLOUR CRAFT VISIONARY UK WINNER: ELIJAH HOURRIDES, HOB SALONS CRAFT VISIONARY IRELAND WINNER: VI PESSOA, VI PESSOA HAIRSTYLIST EDITORIAL LOOK UK & IRELAND WINNER: AMY KIRWAN, VANILLA HAIR DESIGN XPOSURE CREATIVE COLOUR UK & IRELAND WINNER: CIARA HARRINGTON, ECC FOR FURTHER EDUCATION

PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD COLOUR VISIONARY UK & IRELAND WINNER: ALLAN KINGSLAND, ZANDERS HAIR DESIGN PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD CRAFT VISIONARY UK & IRELAND WINNER: VI PESSOA, VI PESSOA HAIRSTYLIST PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD EDITORIAL LOOK UK & IRELAND WINNER: PHILL GALLAGHER, DOT HAIR PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD XPOSURE CREATIVE COLOUR UK & IRELAND WINNER: CIARA HARRINGTON, ECC FOR FURTHER EDUCATION

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 23/10/2023 11:48 Page 1

014_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:38 Page 14

CONTINUING OUR NEW SERIES, PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. IT’S SAID THAT YOU CAN’T SUCCEED UNTIL YOU’VE FAILED, SO FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL UNCOVERS THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND WHAT THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.

THIS ISSUE, PHIL TALKS TO HAIRDRESSING LEGEND, RUSSELL EATON. AS ONE OF THE MOST WELL-KNOWN AND WELL-LIKED NAMES IN BRITISH HAIRDRESSING, RUSSELL HAS BUILT A SUCCESSFUL FAMILY BUSINESS ALONGSIDE HIS WIFE KAREN, AWARD-WINNING SON ROBERT AND DAUGHTER ISOBEL. WITH A NEW CITY-CENTRE SALON OPENING IN LEEDS THIS YEAR, RUSSELL SHOWS NO SIGNS OF SLOWING DOWN. TODAY, HE TELLS PHIL WHY HE’D RATHER BE ON A PHOTOSHOOT THAN ROAMING AROUND A NATIONAL TRUST PROPERTY…

014_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:39 Page 15

interview

RUSSELL, TELL ME ABOUT WHAT YOU THINK HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE OR ‘FAILURE’ SO FAR… IN OTHER WORDS, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKE?

©Liam Oakes Photography

Over the length of time I’ve spent in the industry, I have made many mistakes, but I prefer to think of these as little elements that have taken me in different directions. I suppose the biggest ‘failure’ though, would be when I opened my first shop in Doncaster. It was the mid 80s, when Doncaster was very up and coming and geographically ideal. We opened a hair salon with high-end ladies fashion on the floor below, however I was a real novice at fashion at the time, with a lot still to learn. We were buying and selling all of the stock, and chasing ourselves to make it pay the bills. We did it for three years, but we were running up quite an overdraft and realised we didn’t need the stress. Deciding to sell that premises was one of the hardest decisions I’ve made – let’s just say I’ve stuck to purely hair ever since!

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE BIGGEST LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM THIS? It would be to stay in your lane; find what you’re good at and stick to it. I’m at a place now where I try to do things from the gut much more; I trust my own instincts.

HOW HAS THIS EXPERIENCE HELPED YOU MAKE BETTER DECISIONS IN THE FUTURE? It’s made me realise success is all about the team you have around you. I’m so proud that Rob has won British Hairdresser of the Year twice, and Isobel has won North-Eastern Hairdresser of the Year too. It’s an amazing feeling – almost better than if I’d won it myself.

These days, I’m much more focused on their successes than my own.

I REMEMBER SEEING YOUR FACE WHEN ROB WON FOR THE FIRST TIME, THAT’S DEFINITELY A FEELING I CAN RELATE TO. DO YOU MISS BEING AT THE FOREFRONT? Not really, but if there’s a shoot or anything like that, I always go along. Thankfully, they still seem to want me there – in an advisory capacity at least!

IF YOU COULD START ALL OVER AGAIN, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY? I’ve honestly enjoyed everything about my career, so it’s hard to pick out anything in particular. The thing is, I’m still working hard, just in a different way. 25-30 years ago, for example, I would have been on the salon floor much more than I am today. Right now, however, we’re working on the opening of our new salon in Leeds, so it’s safe to say I’m still very happy with where I am.

WHAT CHARACTER TRAITS WOULD YOU SAY HARD TIMES HAVE TAUGHT YOU? Drive and determination - those traits have never left me. You’ve got to be resilient too – over the years, one of the hardest things I’ve dealt with is people moving on from the teams I’ve built. I’ve gradually learnt that dealing with this requires a lot of resilience.

HOW DOES SOMEONE CREATE SUCCESS IN THEIR CAREER? It’s all about the correct foundations. Whether we’re talking artistically or business wise, you have to get the foundations right and then you can build on them. For every ten trainees we take on, there’s maybe one or two that will make it to the top level. It’s all about attitude, and I think you can spot that from day one.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL MOMENT RECENTLY? On a personal level, I was hugely honoured a couple of years ago to be given the Fellowship Lifetime Achievement Award. It was a total surprise and Rob hadn’t breathed a word.

of happened. Both my children decided they wanted to come and help in the business, and now it’s become our way of life. One drawback of having a family business is that we never stop talking about it, but I always say: hairdressing is a lifestyle not just a job!

SUCCESS IS OBVIOUSLY DIFFERENT FOR EVERYONE, BUT WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE TO YOU? The artistic side of the industry remains very important to me, and awards are of course a good benchmark for this. Ultimately though, staying in business after all these years is a real measure of success for me. It’s easy to open a salon, the hard part is keeping it from closing.

WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE, AND WHAT LESSONS HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU? That’s a hard one to answer because there are so many people who inspire me. The two I’d have to mention would be Toni Mascolo and Vidal Sassoon. I’ve read both their memoirs and I have so much respect and admiration for them. They both came from very humble beginnings, which is something I can relate to.

I grew up in South Yorkshire in a mining community, and my father was a miner. At the time I went into it, hairdressing was a highly unusual career choice, but it was the best decision I ever made.

WHAT THREE PIECES OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE AT THE START OF THEIR CAREER?

ARE YOU A PERSON WHO TAKES RISKS?

1. Always get your foundations right, regardless of where you want to end up.

2. Learn from as many people as you possibly can.

3. Be determined and always keep your focus.

Yes. To do what we’re about to do and open a salon in a city-centre location with a 10-year lease is a huge risk. It will be a challenge, and the first couple of years will be scary, but I can’t imagine opening up in any other location.

FINALLY, RUSSELL, WHAT KEEPS YOU GOING? WHAT STILL MOTIVATES YOU TO GET UP AND OUT TO WORK?

OF COURSE, YOU CAN’T JUST STAND STILL. THE RIGHT THING TO DO IS TO KEEP GROWING, AND THAT WILL ALWAYS INVOLVE RISK.

It’s partly having my family in the business, I love working with young people. I don’t want to be visiting National Trust properties, I’d rather be out meeting people and going to events!

It does. Funnily enough, creating this family business was never the grand plan, it just sort

15

016_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:39 Page 16

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE WiTH ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

Errol Douglas has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing.

With equality, diversity and inclusivity high on his agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon. In the second of our new series, Errol continues to interview hair-industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

THiS MONTH, ERROL SiTS DOWN WiTH EUROPEAN EDUCATiON DiRECTOR FOR AVLON, JACQUi MCINTOSH. A QUALiFiED TEACHER, BUSiNESS COACH AND MENTOR WiTH OVER 30 YEARS’ EXPERiENCE iN THE HAiRDRESSiNG SECTOR, JACQUi iS HiGHLY SKiLLED iN THE SCiENCE OF HAiRCARE AND POSSESSES UNRiVALLED KNOWLEDGE OF THE TEXTURED HAiR MARKET. every hair type. However, if you’re a small salon in, let’s say, a Somerset village, demands for certain treatments or services may be very low and we shouldn’t be holding a gun to their heads.

Where I do feel there is no excuse though is in education. Every UK worker pays tax, therefore government funded education should reflect and benefit everyone. Every hair student should be receiving a full and rounded training on EVERY type of hair at college. To me, this is where the responsibility lies.

Hi JACQUi, THANKS FOR CHATTiNG TO ME TODAY. WHAT DOES THE TERM iNCLUSiViTY MEAN TO YOU? As far as hairdressing is concerned, it’s a tricky one and we have to be careful.

Should anyone be able to walk into any salon and expect to be catered for? Yes. But on the other hand, are we putting a lot of pressure on salon owners who – maybe due to financial or geographical reasons – don’t stock specific products or possess the knowledge to deliver certain services correctly? Also yes. It’s not necessarily about people choosing to opt out of the diversity conversation, it can depend on the demographic of their clientele. There is absolutely no excuse for salons in multicultural cities not to be equipped for

YOU’RE ONE OF THE COUNTRY’S LEADiNG TEXTURED HAiR SPECiALiSTS AND YOU’RE ALSO A CERTiFiED TRiCHOLOGiST – HOW iMPORTANT HAS THAT PART OF YOUR TRAiNiNG BEEN iN MAKiNG YOU SUCH AN EXPERT iN THiS AREA? Invaluable. Hair is an amazing part of our anatomy that is still baffling scientists today.

Every time we think we have it figured out, another breakthrough happens that changes our perspective, which is why staying engaged with new research and product development is key. Clients are exposed to so much information, and it’s our responsibility as stylists to have a good understanding of hair and all its complexities.

HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATiON AND TRAiNiNG PLAY iN THE QUEST FOR iNCLUSiViTY? It’s where it all starts. I was one of the lucky ones who was taught across the board, but

the education system still has a long way to go. Whilst some training academies are doing an amazing job, there are far too many that do not invest in ensuring their staff are fully vocationally competent. This is where the cracks in education begin to occur. Can you imagine being employed as a trainer and not knowing how to teach colour? It just wouldn’t happen. So why do we turn a blind eye to other areas being disregarded? We have to teach the fundamentals – chemical processes, haircare, new technology – and we need to know how to apply them to every type of hair. Knowledge gaps in college leavers wouldn’t be tolerated in any other industry, so they shouldn’t be tolerated in ours.

016_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:39 Page 17

interview WHAT DO YOU THiNK SALONS CAN DO TO OFFER A TRULY iNCLUSiVE SERViCE? Firstly, it’s important to think about your client base – people won’t come to you if your services don’t reflect them. Evaluate what services you already do well and consider how you can translate these to textured hair clients, whilst still sitting within your skillset and staying true to you. Think about how you can educate yourself on the right products. Switched-on manufacturers will support you with training and help to develop your team. Learning new skills can be mind-boggling and you’re not going to be an expert overnight, but it’s not as scary as you think; break it into bitesize chunks and build on your strengths.

WHAT PART DO PRODUCT COMPANiES PLAY iN THE ADVANCEMENT OF iNCLUSiViTY? They play a huge part, although my concern is that some of the giants just want to tick a box. Many brands are not doing as much as they say they are, and their claims can be quite misleading. It’s important to look at it from the ground level up – who’s in the boardroom? Who are the people making the decisions? I truly believe that you can’t be an inclusive company if your people don’t reflect that.

WHAT’S YOUR BEST TECHNiCAL TiP REGARDiNG TEXTURED HAiR? Watch and learn. There are so many amazing, free resources out there. Look at work that excites you on social media, then challenge yourself to try something new.

Most of your current skills will work on textured hair too, it’s just a case of making changes and adapting.

WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAiR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT iT’S AN OUTDATED TERM? To me, that’s just throwaway terminology, there is no such thing as ‘normal hair’.

Normal is not a helpful term in any professional environment – what one person may consider normal, another would not. It’s important to do your own analysis and examination on each individual hair type: What are you seeing and feeling? These questions will help you decide the best outcome, whilst also making your product selection more personal for your client.

WHAT iS AVLON DOiNG TO ENSURE iNCLUSiON iS ON EVERYONE’S AGENDA? Avlon Europe has a history of supporting education, with our founder Dr Ali Syed at the helm. His passion is to inspire the professional hairdresser to embrace the science of haircare. With a commitment to product innovation and to uncovering the science behind the most fragile hair types on the planet, his ethos makes working with the brand truly rewarding.

Next year, we will be launching two satellite academies and opening our doors to anyone who has an interest in textured hair education. This is going to be an amazing venture.

WHAT iS ONE THiNG EVERY HAiRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAiR? Knowledge is key to everything, so make it your aim to acquire as much information as you can on this hair type. If you can’t explain to someone the details of a process you’re doing, you need to become more educated on it.

17

018_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:40 Page 18

IN THE LAST OF THE SERIES, SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S FINEST CUTTING MAESTROS OFFER THEIR ADVICE ON WHAT IT TAKES TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS…

I

love cutting hair; the way you can convey a client’s personality and individuality with their haircut. I love all aspects of the process; the way that we take into consideration their face shape, hair texture, growth patterns and bone structure to create a haircut that is unique to that client. I love RUSH INTERNATIONAL the discipline of the CREATIVE DIRECTOR craft; clean sections, precision work and positioning of the body. The craft of hair cutting is an art form, and you must have a passion for it. You must care about what you are doing and fully immerse yourself in perfecting the skill.

Once you have a true understanding of the fundamentals, you can then start to break the rules. Practice and develop your skills at every opportunity, that way you will truly master the art.

It’s our role as trainers and educators to ensure that the next generation are learning at the highest possible standard, this will prevent the art of cutting hair from ever dying out. We must make certain that haircutting is never diluted and remains an integral part of any hairdresser’s training.

Andy Heasman

T

he craft of hairdressing is an intricate mix of skill, creativity and enthusiasm. We not only shape hair, but confidence too; we bring out the unique beauty in every individual with a pair of scissors or a tint brush. To call ourselves craftsmen is to honour the mastery and dedication we commit to our work. Every cut, colour and style is a testament to our craft – it’s an expression of artistry and of being the very best we can be. We make every client feel exceptional, and it is our craftsmanship that allows us to do this. It’s more than a bouncy blow-dry, it’s a shape of a fringe that enhances their eyes and frames their cheekbones. It’s perfection and precision. To be a great hairdresser – whether in cutting, colouring or styling hair – you need technical skills, discipline, HOB SALONS patience and INTERNATIONAL dedication.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hairdressers are the ultimate craftspeople as we spend every day creating beautiful shapes, manipulating the canvas we are working on and building textures with just one tool, our scissors. I am hugely excited and passionate about the craft of hairdressing, and it is our responsibility to pass these skills to the next generation. Long hair has been in fashion for so long, many hairdressers have forgotten these basic cutting skills. We need to bring back shorter hairstyles to not only excite the client, but ourselves too.

THE CRAFT OF...

Akin Konizi

CUTTING g n i t C ut

018_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:40 Page 19

business

T

o be a great hairdresser, you need a combination of technical skills, social skills and personal skills. From the minute you start training, you learn about the fundamentals of sectioning, styling, colour placement and so much more. You learn about client TONI&GUY consultation, the art of GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECOTR listening and hearing what your clients want.

All of these skills will be with you throughout your career, to call yourself a craftsman however, you have to jump one step further. You need to have the ability to adapt your work to changes in hair type, hair trends, street style and lifestyle. The design of a pair of trousers, for example, never changes, but it’s the small details that make them current – the placement of the pocket, the stitching or the waistband. Similarly, a bob will never go out of fashion – this year alone we have had the Boyfriend, the Butterfly and the French Bob. The foundations of this haircut are always the same, but what makes it relevant and new is the detail – a flick through the end or the parting of a fringe.

There’s no better feeling than when a client walks out of the salon door with a smile on their face – and that is what we get to achieve every day. To make someone feel better about themselves with the flick of a wrist is an incredibly powerful skill to have.

Melissa Timperley

..

FOUNDER OF MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALON

Cos Sakkas

“To make someone feel better about themselves with the flick of a wrist is an incredibly powerful skill to have.”

NG

F

or me, a craftsman is someone who has exceptional skill, knowledge and dedication to their chosen craft, including a meticulous attention to detail, creativity and a deep understanding of the materials and techniques involved. A craftsman constantly strives for perfection and takes pride in producing high-quality work.

The craft of haircutting is a blend of artistic expression and technical precision, involving the skilful use of cutting tools and techniques to create hair that moves, falls back into shape and enhances a client’s natural beauty.

Sadly, I believe hair cutting has been a dying art form for the last ten years, with hairdressers focusing more on colour techniques such as balayage. However, the haircut is back in fashion and here to stay! More and more clients are now requesting softer shapes with layers or taking the plunge and going for the chic French bob. Hairdressers must now hone their cutting skills to be able to keep up with client demands.

Cutting is an art form that allows me to connect with clients on a personal level, especially through understanding their lifestyle and crafting a style that suits them perfectly. Being a good hair cutter can also help you to stand out from other hairdressers – creating a haircut that grows out well and makes a client’s life easier will help you to build a loyal clientele, therefore earning you more money.

Many hairstylists haven’t done any cutting education since they qualified, and a lot of things have changed since then! We now have so many different trends and techniques, so it’s vital to constantly grow and evolve in order to keep up with the rest.

19

DPS NEW_Layout 1 23/10/2023 11:47 Page 1

DPS NEW_Layout 1 23/10/2023 11:47 Page 2

022_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:40 Page 22

THINK YOU KNOW YOUR BRAIDS? TINA FAREY Intricate hair braiding involves weaving together multiple sections of hair to create elaborate patterns. With many different styles, the ability to master the technique requires a high level of skill, patience and attention to detail. In order to achieve these desired results, you must have a deep understanding of various braiding techniques and patterns: Cornrows – a traditional African braiding technique where the hair is braided closely to the scalp in rows, creating a raised effect. The rows can be simple straight lines or intricate geometric patterns.

Box Braids – Box Braids involve sectioning the hair into small, square or rectangular parts and braiding each section from the scalp to the ends. These braids

memo AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT X PEGGY GOU Authentic Beauty Concept unveils its new, exclusive Gift Bag Set, now available for retail to salon clients. Endorsed by the fabulous Peggy Gou – the new face of Authentic Beauty Concept – this premium gift set includes a thoughtfully curated collection of haircare essentials from the hydrate range, packed in a luxurious sustainable cosmetic bag. Comprised of a Cleanser, Conditioner and innovative Sensorial Cream Scrub, enrich your clients’ salon visits with a delightful and practical gift that nourishes and pampers their hair. www.rdr.link/HAP001

are chunky and are often adorned with beads or other decorations.

Ghana Braids (Feed-In Braids) – Ghana Braids involve incorporating additional hair as you braid, creating a “feed-in” effect. This technique allows for more complex designs and patterns, as well as a more natural look at the scalp.

Dutch Braids – Dutch braids, also known as reverse braids or inside-out braids, involve crossing the sections under each other instead of over, resulting in a braid that appears raised from the scalp.

Basket Weave Braids – Basket weave braids involve weaving strands of hair over and under each other to create a woven or basket-like pattern. This technique can be used to create elaborate updos and styles.

SEEING SNAKES As part of its new Gothic Glamour range, the Denman Deluxe D38 Snake Power Paddle is the perfect addition for any dark and grungy kit bag. With a black snakeskin pattern and polished pins to glide effortlessly through the hair, the brush is ideal for prepping, curl definition and blow-drying. www.rdr.link/HAP002

SKELETAL STYLING Engineered for high visibility and accuracy whilst trimming, the new High Visibility Trimmer from Wahl features a skeleton design with an extra-wide t-blade, as well as DLC and Titanium coatings to keep the blades cooler and sharper for longer. The all-metal housing is complete with a high-performance lithium battery to provide a 2+ hour runtime. www.rdr.link/HAP003

022_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:41 Page 23

‘Come Outside…’

Our model began as a natural base 7 with auburn tones running through it. As the model already had a subtle face frame in place, we chose to match our human hair clip-ins to the ends of her natural hair where the connection point is.

I’d describe the overall colour as a fiery copper with a warm, soft blonde running through it to create a gentle, elegant face frame. To achieve this result, we blended two of our most popular autumnal shades, Umber & Caramel Deluxe.

KATY GRIMSHAW, FOUNDER OF SPECTRUM ONE HAIR EXTENSIONS

LET THERE BE LIGHT ASP Expert Haircare extends its System Blonde range with the Charcoal Bleach Powder Lightener. Created for up to 10 levels of lift, the unique charcoal formulation purifies the hair whilst neutralising yellow and orange tones for the brightest blonde results.

Simply mix with ASP Crème Developer for incredible lifting power, maximum control and superior condition. www.rdr.link/HAP004

memo Not Quite a Cowboy?

Whilst ‘Cowboy Copper’ is very popular at the moment, the colour trend often makes it difficult to revert blonde clients back to their original shade. I recommend experimenting with apricot and strawberry blonde toners first, these will add richness to tired blonde hair without having to make clients fully commit to the whole transition.

EMMA FOWLER, COLOUR EDUCATOR

HIT ME WITH YOUR BEST SHOT! Ideal for backbar use, the new 118ml Vitalshot bottle from Keratin Complex uses a convenient dispensing system that allows for precise measurement with just one to two pumps. A simple add-on for all colouring and lightening processes, Vitalshot is a one-step bond rebuilder that strengthens hair from the inside out to help reverse long-term damage. www.rdr.link/HAP005

23

024_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:41 Page 24

AVOID OVERPROMISING Whilst it’s tempting to claim your productions will reduce carbon emissions by a certain percentage, big problems can arise if you don’t meet this target. Instead, advertise your past efforts which have suitable data to back them up; talk about how you have already helped the environment, rather than how you hope to.

Are you Guilty of ENVIRONMENTAL STAFF hiring a professional to assist in Greenwashing? Consider your social responsibility management. A The worry of greenwashing is real, with companies such as Coca-Cola and IKEA facing lawsuits due to their own sustainability messaging. As a salon business, you don’t want to be facing these sorts of financial and reputational conflicts.

We caught up with UK Greetings to find out how small businesses can avoid greenwashing claims whilst still contributing to a better, more sustainable society: KEEP COMMUNICATION CLEAR It has been found that 77% of UK customers don’t understand what companies are claiming when they talk about sustainability.

Sending clear, consistent messages is a simple way to ensure your business is advertising its sustainability practises fairly.

Corporate Sustainability Officer, for example, would provide your business with a representative to consider the environmental implications of all procedures. In this way, you can also ensure your business isn’t making claims that are false or unsustainable.

PARTNERSHIPS Ensuring your partner companies share the same morals and values as you do is a crucial step to meeting your sustainability goals.

Not only does your messaging apply to your own company, but customers and the media will look to who you actively work with to represent these matters too. www.rdr.link/HAP006

TEAMWORK MAKES THE DREAM WORK Olivia Garden Europe and Denman International have joined forces as inaugural members of the Hair Styling Tool Collective. The collective endeavours to lessen the environmental impact of hair tool products to bring greater sustainability to the daily lives of hair professionals. The six objectives of the charter are: Promoting sustainable products: Developing more sustainable products through continuously striving to reduce their ecological footprint.

1

Encouraging responsible manufacturing practices: Minimising waste, optimising the use of natural resources and reducing greenhouse gas emissions, as well as promoting a circular economy by advocating for the recycling of products.

2

Measuring greenhouse gas emissions: Through understanding its carbon footprint, the Collective will identify opportunities to contribute to climate change mitigation efforts.

3

memo 4

GOING FOR GREEN

Demonstrating its continued commitment to sustainable and ethical practices, KMS announces it remarkable success at the Global Green Beauty Awards. In a highly competitive line-up, the KMS Conscious Style Cleansing Mist was awarded the Silver medal in the Best Natural Haircare Product category, and the KMS ThermaShape Quick Blow Dry spray claimed the Bronze medal in the Best Vegan Haircare Product category.

This recognition is a testament to KMS’s unwavering dedication to crafting products that are gentle, effective and environmentally friendly, catering to conscious consumers around the world. www.rdr.link/HAP007

Raising awareness and training hairdressers: Providing information and training on sustainable practices to hairdressers.

Collaboration and knowledge sharing: Fostering the exchange of knowledge, experiences and resources to encourage partnerships with other stakeholders committed to sustainability.

5

Transparency and accountability: Committing to measuring, monitoring and regularly reporting on its environmental, social and economic performance.

6

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 23/10/2023 11:47 Page 1

026_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:42 Page 26

socialite

SESSIONS WITH A DIVING INTO THE DIGITAL WORLD WITH FERGAL DOYLE

There’s a new social media sensation shaking things up in the hair world. Delivering his straight-talking tips, trends and techniques on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube, Fergal Doyle is the likeable influencer with his finger on the digital pulse.

With a host of impressive titles under his belt – including Wella Professionals Educator of the Year and Global Digital Amplifier – Fergal’s career has seen him use his hairdressing skills, digital expertise and hairdressing network to build and manage communities of the world’s greatest hairdressing influencers. More recently, he has poured his years of working behind the chair and in the classroom into his latest venture – Fergal Doyle Hair, an award-winning bespoke salon and luxury colour suite. With energy, enthusiasm and over 43k social followers, there’s no stopping him!

If you’re desperate to dive into the digital world but don’t quite know where to start, we sat down with Fergal to find out the very first steps you need to know in order to supercharge your socials…

FIGURE OUT WHERE TO HANG OUT Social media has been the most incredible marketing tool for me – in fact, I used Instagram to launch my salon just 18 months ago. With the popularity of platforms like Instagram, TikTok and YouTube, we can not only showcase our beautiful work but also grow our clientele and our businesses – and best of all, it’s FREE! However, it’s no secret that the sheer variety of social media platforms is overwhelming. It’s crucial to choose the platform which best aligns with your goals, your dream clientele, the time you’re willing to commit to it and how much content creation experience you have.

026_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:42 Page 27

business

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE: Instagram is all about visuals. It’s the perfect platform for sharing a portfolio of your work, building a community and staying connected with the latest beauty trends. It offers various engagement features like Stories, Reels and Lives, allowing you to share behind-the-scenes content, quick tips and live tutorials.

Instagram attracts a wide range of users, which means you can target a huge spectrum of different age groups and interests.

Top tip for success: If you have nothing else, you need Instagram. It’s user friendly (even as a total novice) and has multiple features that are super beneficial to businesses. Focus on creating a visually appealing feed that reflects your style and expertise. Build up a loyal community by interacting with your followers and responding to comments and messages promptly.

TikTok has gained immense popularity due to its short-form, attention-grabbing videos. It’s a platform where hair professionals can create quick, engaging content. Perfect for short tutorials, showcasing transformations or participating in trending challenges, TikTok provides opportunities for you to have your content go viral and gain widespread (sometimes global) recognition.

It primarily attracts a younger demographic, so this is where to find your Gen Zs and Millennials.

Top tip for success: TikTok is fun and unpredictable – it should provide entertainment. Save your beautiful transformations for Instagram, TikTok is about unpolished content that gives the viewer a quick fix of amusement or knowledge in 7-10 seconds. TikTok users have short attention spans, so hook them in with trending sounds and snappy intros!

YouTube is the go-to platform for those who want to offer in-depth tutorials, establish themselves as experts in the field and connect with a dedicated audience interested in detailed hairstyling techniques. Its video-centric format enables you to demonstrate your expertise and build trust with viewers seeking educational content. It appeals to a broad range of users – not just professionals – and anyone looking for a more comprehensive insight into hairdressing.

Top tip for success: Creators that have a footprint on YouTube can often easily build an audience anywhere else online. Careful planning and research will ensure your videos get maximum views: Invest in good video and audio equipment to boost the quality of your tutorials and demonstrations.

ONE LAST THING… You may choose to focus on one platform or master the art of all three, but remember: social media is all about fun and engagement. It shouldn’t be stressful. Find your groove and you’ll be creating unique content and boosting salon profits in no time.

Want to know how to maximise content for stress-free scheduling?

Fergal will be sharing weekly social tips on our Instagram (@prohairmag) in an exclusive new social series: #socialmediamondays with Fergal Doyle… @fergaldoylehair // fergaldoylehair.com

27

028_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:43 Page 28

HAPPY LEADERS

Grace Salon Leadership was founded in 2019 by me, Polly Rose, a multi-salon owner for over 35 years! My mission is to inspire salon leaders to live their happiest lives and to lead with kindness to create a great salon culture and successful business where everybody feels they can be their best selves. I believe people do their best work by thriving in an environment that recognises, accepts and celebrates the differences within the team. In this series, I hope I have helped you in some way to become a happy leader…

Leaders are not born leaders, we evolve and grow into leadership. Great leaders recognise that they are in a privileged position and take care of the people that they lead. I don’t teach people to lead in this way because it’s good to be kind (although it is!), I teach people to lead in this way because it gets results.

Take responsibility for your actions and decisions. Be willing to admit your mistakes and work towards solutions, demonstrating accountability for your leadership. Recognise that you are not always the smartest person in the room.

As a leader, performance is at the top of our agenda. It is your task to attract, develop, engage, inspire and retain the people that make up that team. Earning the trust of your people has to be the top priority for any leader. So often, performance issues are actually a result of deeper trust issues.

Here are the most effective ways to rebuild trust in your salon:

Delegate effectively. This demonstrates trust in your team’s abilities, which in return boosts morale.

Build a ring of protection around your people and business. We can’t control the constant threats that salons face from the outside world – such as the cost-of-living crisis – but we can reduce and control the dangers inside the ring. It is the leader’s responsibility to look out for those inside and encourage them to look after each other.

If you are new to leadership or moving to a salon with low trust, you must be totally clear and explain that trust is your absolute priority. It takes time, so start with the small stuff and build on it. Listen to everyone; understand and show respect for what you hear from anyone in the team. Every ERNEST HEMINGWAY conversation we have – whether in person Change your vocabulary. Use words such or by video, phone, email or text – is a as ‘we’ ‘us’ and ‘together’ instead of ‘I’ ‘me’ and ‘my’. Your chance to reinforce trust. It’s important to be very aware of actions must align with your words, so say what you mean what you say and do. and mean what you say.

The quickest way to inspire trust throughout your salon is Be honest and straightforward with your team. Before to give trust. The difference between trusting your people you commit to something be sure you can fulfil it. If you and asking them to earn your trust is vast, and the make promises, keep them and act on them to earn psychological impact on their performance is huge. confidence.

Without trust, your leadership will fail, and your people will act only to protect and promote themselves.

Ensure your people have confidence in you and your ability to lead. You will need to demonstrate that you have The good news is that trust is a leadership behaviour that sufficient knowledge, judgment and skill to be competent can be learnt and built upon; the more you practise trust, in your role. the better your results will be.

Show your team that you care. Connect on a human level and build rapport. Show empathy and understanding towards their concerns and feelings. Have their interests in mind, not just your own, when you make decisions.

“The best way to find out if you can trust somebody is to trust them.”

029_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:43 Page 29

business

SAY IT

SOCIALS

with

Navigating the Social Media Minefield Graham Clarke, CEO, Murdock London

In the fast-paced world of the hair and barbering industry, where trends change as swiftly as the seasons, mastering the art of social media can be the key to success. The digital landscape has become an indispensable platform for businesses to connect with their audience, build brand loyalty and unlock new sources of revenue.

By strategically navigating the social media minefield, businesses can develop relationships, provide value-driven content, engage with customers, cultivate brand ambassadors and attract new clients...

1

DEVELOPING RELATIONSHIPS AS PART OF THE SALES PROCESS In an industry built on personal connection, forging trustworthy relationships is paramount. Social media offers a unique opportunity to humanise your brand and showcase the faces behind the scissors. First things first, optimise your bio – keep it professional and always include a link to ‘book now’. Share stories about your team, highlight their expertise and give customers a glimpse into your shop’s culture. Responding promptly to comments and direct messages not only shows commitment, but also fosters a sense of belonging, turning one-time clients into loyal patrons.

2

PROVIDING THOUGHTFUL CONTENT Successful social media strategies revolve around content that resonates with your target audience.

For the hair and barbering industry, this could encompass a myriad of topics: From style tips and maintenance routines, to the latest trends and product recommendations, offering valuable insights positions your business as an authority and encourages engagement. Visual content, such as before-and-after photos or video tutorials, can captivate your audience and showcase your skills.

3

ANSWERING QUESTIONS AND ENGAGING WITH CUSTOMERS Social media acts as an instant feedback loop, allowing customers to voice concerns, ask questions and provide reviews. Embrace this as an opportunity to show your commitment to customer satisfaction. Swiftly respond to inquiries and feedback, offering solutions and demonstrating your dedication to their needs. The public nature of social media interactions also showcases your transparency and willingness to learn and improve.

4

CREATING BRAND AMBASSADORS Harness the power of satisfied customers by transforming them into brand ambassadors.

Encourage them to share their experiences on their own social media profiles through using specific hashtags or tagging your business. You can also host contests or giveaways that require participants to engage with your content, broadening your reach and sparking word-of-mouth referrals. Authentic endorsements from real clients carry substantial weight and can significantly impact your reputation.

5

EDUCATING AND ENTICING NEW CLIENTS Educational content not only helps existing customers, but it also entices potential ones.

Consider sharing content that educates your audience about haircare, styling techniques and trends. By offering value before asking for a sale, you build trust and credibility, making it more likely for newcomers to choose your services.

Conclusion: In the ever-evolving landscape of social media, the hair and barbering industry has a wealth of opportunities to connect, engage and thrive. By navigating the social media minefield, you’re ultimately creating a new and sustainable source of revenue. Stay agile, adapt to trends and remember that the heart of your business lies in the relationships you build both online and offline.

Fast facts ● Over 91% of retail brands

use two or more social media platforms. ● There are currently 2.5 billion active social media users in the world. ● On average, we check our social media accounts 17 times a day. ● Ad spending in the social media advertising market is projected to reach over £170 billion this year.

29

030_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:43 Page 30

business

NEED-to-KNOW

TRICHO

WHAT IMPACT DOES THE FESTIVE SEASON HAVE ON HAIR LOSS? This month, Nioxin ambassador and globally recognised trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), ends the year with some words of wisdom on the impact that festive food and drink can have on our hair. It’s not all bad news though, getting the beers in can actually be beneficial!

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT… A balanced rainbow diet, full of brightly coloured foods with plenty of eggs and protein, is great for nurturing healthy hair. Drinking plenty of water is also essential as processed, salty food can be incredibly dehydrating for the hair.

A Mediterranean diet, for instance, rich in fresh vegetables, unprocessed foods and olive oil, is considered optimum for hair growth.

During the Christmas season, sprouts are fantastic for hair. They are rich in Iron, Vitamin C, Vitamin K, Folic Acid and Cysteine, all of which are thought to encourage hair growth.

WINE TIME… Whilst Christmas is definitely the time to crack open another bottle, it’s worth considering the link between drinking alcohol and hair loss. As ever with alcohol, it’s all about moderation; drinking excessively could lead to you not getting the adequate amount of nutrients you need for a healthy head of hair. Alcohol inhibits the absorption of Vitamin B12, which is essential for hair growth. Through working to extract energy from proteins during fat digestion, lower levels of Vitamin B12 can result in a thinner, weaker hair density.

Meanwhile, the levels of zinc that you’re able to take can also be negatively impacted by excessive drinking. Some studies have even highlighted the potential link between zinc deficiency with male and female pattern baldness.

On the other hand, some research suggests that drinking beer (again, in moderation) can actually promote healthy hair growth. As beer is a good source of silicone – an essential

‘People who consume more than a single sugar-sweetened drink a day have a 42% increased risk of pattern baldness.’ component of collagen – it can deliver positive physiological benefits to the epidermis, hair and nails.

SUGAR AND HAIR LOSS… Unfortunately, it’s not just alcohol that takes its toll on the hair. According to a study of more than 1000 men between the ages of 18-45 (www.rdr.link/HAP008), those who consume more than a single sugar-sweetened drink a day – including natural sources of sugar, like fruit juices and artificial sweeteners – have a 42% increased risk of male pattern hair loss. Whilst it’s true that men can lose their hair for a variety of reasons, sugary drinks certainly catalyse this process.

031_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:43 Page 31

HAIR ME OUT IN THE LAST OF HIS SERIES, CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW BARTON DISCUSSES WHY KEEPING A PORTFOLIO OF WORK IS HELPFUL IN BUILDING YOUR REPUTATION – AS WELL AS THE SHEER JOY THAT COMES WITH TRACKING YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT. A PORTFOLIO IS NOT ONLY AN ARCHIVE OF YOUR WORK, BUT ALSO A RECORD OF YOUR CREATIVE EVOLUTION AS A HAIRDRESSER.

Here is a selection of my favourite portfolio editorial work – my portfolio is so key y personal images from over the years... for landing regular bookings. aesthetic has Equally when it comes to clients, if always been a they regard me a good fit for their guiding particular style of hair, it fosters inspiration for the start of a beautiful, trusting me. It’s at the and loyal relationship. heart of everything I create, whether I’ve now realised that I can’t be it’s working with clients in the salon, happy doing hair that doesn’t teaching an education seminar or appeal to my personal aesthetic. creating hair imagery for a brand or a I adore this shot for it’s natural My clients all want the assurance collection. When prepping for a shoot, beauty; simple, soft and pretty.

The classic halo that they will receive the aesthetic my focus is not only on a shape, I just love the of hair styling that is ME! signature style of hair, drama of this image.

I love it when I see other but on ensuring I tell the stylists showing off to story of my own personal their clients with aesthetic. pictures of beautiful hair Early on in my career, they’ve created I realised there is nothing previously – clients love about me as a hair to see it as it gives them a designer that is edgy or strong idea of the exact funky – it’s just not who I This image was shot by one personal aesthetic they am and it does not fit of my favourite can expect. with my design aesthetic. photographers, Jack Eames, Curl and colour contrasted by to promote my electrical One length hair simply It is so important to But there is nothing an exaggerated silhouette. styling tools. styled always makes a statement of its own. capture images of your wrong with that!

As Creative Director of work and present them Understanding what you like Racoon International, it’s part of my in some kind of portfolio, even is part of realising your role to develop the brand image. if it is just digitally on your design identity - let’s call it I love this shot phone! Whatever your style your creative DNA check. as it’s all about abundant hair aesthetic – be it edgy, funky or Just like fashion designers without the classically gorgeous – use it as a that have a specific way of hair, all valuable tool to market yourself. detailing their designs – think through using extensions.

I urge you to think about Versace or McQueen, for your own personal aesthetic. example – we also do this as Trust me, there is no point in hairdressers. simply copying the work of With this in mind, a portfolio is an Part of my winning your hairdressing icons or in essential tool. It allows you to take pride in the British Hairdresser of the creating hair that doesn’t work you’ve created, providing inspiration and Year collection. The whole idea was to create excite you – your portfolio is the increased confidence to shape your something luxurious. about you and no one else. individual brand as a professional hairdresser.

I’m a great believer in your personal ID as a Follow Andrew @Andrew_barton_hair hairdresser contributing towards your overall and @andrewbartonlondoneducation ABLE Andrew is: work happiness and business success.

I’m often inspired in my UK Creative Ambassador for salon-only brand Keune. work by hair design from the As a commercial session stylist that gets Creative Director for Racoon Hair Extensions past and how I can bring it booked for a whole variety of jobs – including forward. The classic beehive Honorary Ambassador for The Hair & Barber Council is one of my favourites.

Hairdresser Ambassador for The Little Princess Trust celebrity styling, TV looks, ad campaigns and

M

31

032_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:44 Page 32

advertorial THIS CHRISTMAS, LET THE NHBF BE YOUR GUIDING STAR. EMBRACE THE MAGIC OF THE SEASON AND MAKE IT UNFORGETTABLE FOR YOUR SALON OR BARBERSHOP.

Are you Ready to Sleigh this Festive Season?

CHRISTMAS IS THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING FOR SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS ACROSS THE COUNTRY. IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR THAT ALLOWS YOU TO REALLY BOOST YOUR PROFITS WITH PRODUCTS AND GIFT VOUCHERS RETAILED IN THE SALON. THE NHBF IS READY WITH A SACK FULL OF TIPS TO ENSURE YOUR SALON OR BARBERSHOP SPARKLES THIS CHRISTMAS! Get creative with dazzling window displays: Many salons overlook the power of a festive window display; don’t miss this chance to make a captivating first impression.

Use themes like ‘Winter Wonderland’ or ‘Party Time’ to sprinkle some holiday charm with your Christmas merchandise. Grab the attention of passers-by and draw them into your very own ‘Santa’s Grotto’.

Sell those gift vouchers: Gift cards are the stars of the season. Whilst it’s a great idea to offer them all year round, consider making this Christmas extra special with a festive-themed gift card package.

Encourage your staff to mention gift cards during client visits and showcase them all around your salon with an eye-catching display that can’t be ignored.

Amplify your reach by advertising them through your website, social media pages and email marketing campaigns.

Infuse festive flair inside your salon: Step inside and let the enchantment unfold. Transform your salon or barbershop into a glittering wonderland that’ll make your clients’ hearts skip a beat and get them into the festive spirit. Adorn your space with the colours and sparkle of the season, offering your clients that special ‘Christmassy’ glow as they step through your door.

Don’t forget about social media and your website: Don’t be a Grinch online! Your digital appearance can be the first point of contact for new and existing clients.

Some ideas include: ● Sharing the magic on social media with pictures of your window displays and festive decorations. ● Offering Christmas present suggestions and style ideas to inspire your clients. ● Announcing any last-minute appointments you can squeeze in for those seasonal makeovers. ● Encouraging your clients to repost their special Christmas transformations with selfies.

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is your one-stop shop for business support and advice.

As the UK’s largest trade body for hair, beauty and barbering businesses, it provides: ●

A 24/7 member helpline for everyday business support. ● Discounts off insurance, PPL music licenses and salon software. ● An award-winning membership magazine. ● Ready-made employment contracts. ● HR and legal advice.

JOIN BEFORE DECEMBER 31ST AND QUOTE PHD25 FOR A £25 DISCOUNT OFF YOUR JOINING FEE.

033_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:47 Page 33

Wonderful time The most

of the year

As the countdown to Christmas begins, we spoke to a number of award-winning hairdressers on how best to maximise business and minimise burnout during the busy festive period. With Christmas retailing tips and party hair looks galore, this feature will ensure your salon floor stays merry and bright this holiday season.

Hair: James Forte Photography: Desmond Murray

Hair: TRINITY Haircare European Artistic Team Photography: Johnny Ten Have With an influx of clients wanting their hair done for the holidays, it’s important for salons to anticipate and plan for the extra demand in order to avoid overbooking. To maximise this business, I advise advertising your services through social media, in-salon events and newsletters – this will help to attract both new and returning customers. It also doesn’t hurt to create a cosy and inviting Christmas atmosphere with some festive decorations either.

ELENA LAVAGNI, NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

...

Combining beautiful side braiding with cascading curls, this party-ready look is the epitome of elegance and charm.

JAMES FORTE

We can bank on Christmas always being a busy time, so I often like to think ahead and see how we can extend the period to maximise on a quieter New Year. At The Hair Surgery, we strive to boost retail sales and services throughout January through our Christmas gifting scheme: we hang gifts on our salon Christmas tree – usually with envelopes containing vouchers for money off treatments or a complimentary blow-dry – for each client to choose from after their appointment. This is our way of giving back to the client while also supporting the next season of business.

TIM SCOTT-WRIGHT, OWNER OF THE HAIR SURGERY

33

033_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:47 Page 34

Hair: TRINITY Haircare European Artistic Team Photography: Johnny Ten Have

Roz Orr, Charlie Miller for L’Oréal Professionnel Salons need to be mindful that clients will be thinking more deeply about where they are going to spend their hard-earned money this festive season. From the minute they walk through your door they expect service levels to be high; from how their refreshments are served to how you make them feel in the chair.

Small, festive offerings and promotions – such as having a 3-for-2 deal on all retail products or offering a gift-wrapping service – are lovely touches that can ensure clients leave the salon with a smile.

Hair: Laura and Ria Kulik at The Hairbank Photography: Narita Savoor

RIA KULIK, THE HAIRBANK While the financial return may be great to see, your mental and physical health can often take a battering over the Christmas period. It’s important to recognise these symptoms of burnout before it’s too late. Remember, you can’t be accommodating to everyone – avoid doing ‘favours’ by coming in early or staying late. Pick how many hours you are going to work and stick to them. Most importantly, turn your phone off! With social media and emailing being a massive part of how clients get in touch, discourage them from contacting you outside of working hours. A polite, automated message explaining this goes a long way; people will understand, and you’ll feel a huge amount of pressure lifted.

033_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:48 Page 35

Hair: Sam Bell Photography: Mateusz Sitek

To maximise on seasonal retail, I recommend investing in Christmas gift boxes or crafting your own bundles.

Install a festive window retail display or showcase the gift boxes around your salon, especially at basins and sections where clients will naturally see them. I ensure every member of my team is asking clients if they want gift vouchers or products for easy Christmas gifts – I like to make it fun and incentivise staff by doing a Christmas retail competition!

LEAH DURRANT, LEAH DURRANT HAIR SALON

In the run up to the festive season, I like to use one of the industry award evenings as our main Christmas staff celebrations. I love to treat everyone to a glamorous night out to celebrate their work over the last year; regularly rewarding your staff is a crucial element to maintaining morale. Closer to Christmas, we also have a team trip to a local drag show, this allows us to really let loose after a stressful period in the salon!

BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM, OWNER OF ROAR HAIR & BEAUTY

Hair: Emma Dempsey, Schwarzkopf Professional IGNITE Team Photography: Michael Young

쑿GET THE LOOK | SAM BELL

1. Begin the look by creating a high ponytail using a soft bristle brush and either some elastic or a hairband. Smooth down any flyaways with a light hairspray – I used Aveda Air Control Hair Spray.

2. Split the ponytail in half, creating two sections. Apply Aveda Confixor Liquid Gel to the first section, brushing it through until smooth. Pull the section forward over the face, using your fingers to manipulate the ends and mimic a fringe. Set with a diffuser. Repeat this step on the second section.

3. Once dry, set all of the hair in place with Aveda Control Force Firm Hold Hair Spray. Note, if the hair is very thick, wig tape can be used under the ‘fringe’ sections for extra security.

4. Add gem or pearl stickers to complete the look.

35

033_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:49 Page 36

Hair: Christopher Laird and Stephen Hopper for Remi Cachet Photography: Laura Middleton

After Hours

WITH REMI CACHET

Jamie Brooks, Brooks & Brooks The festive period is one of the busiest, most hectic times for your team, so make sure they are aware of exactly when they will be working to avoid surprises or disappointments. Even on the most stressful days, ensure the salon retains a happy vibe for both clients and your team members. I recommend organising a team gathering – whether that’s drinks or pizza after work, kind words and gestures can make an enormous difference to the mood when it’s busy!

Party season is a chance for clients to go glamorous and embrace styles they would otherwise shy away from. Vintage hair looks, for example, are always popular at this time of year. The elegant 60s-inspired bouffant is a style that works well for many and instantly amps up any seasonal look – I often encourage my clients to try it out during the festive season as I know it will always look sophisticated and bang on trend.

GILL BERRY, JOICO EUROPE

y a w a ive

G

away true on in e are giving y reader. s a e s luck stive al style, w the fe o one ega brate Profession products t le e c To his m t test opf la k g z ’s r n i d a inn Schw of the bran e of wer £850, AP009 c IVE n F a Y T h c v IF H

o a k/ n withndle wortht: www.rdr.lin i e b To bu r details a

F

r you e ente pleas

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/05/2023 10:06 Page 1

038_PHR_NOV23new_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:51 Page 38

��� SPARKLE AND SHINE! John Paul Mitchell Systems has created a multi-brand festive campaign featuring neon-light illustrations with a festive twist.

Spanning across its Tree Tree, Paul Mitchell and Clean Beauty ranges, the selection of gift sets includes: Platinum Blonde, Flexible Style, Moisture and Extra Body.

���

www.rdr.link/HAP010

��� TIME TO SPRUCE

THINGS UP!

��� ���

Treat yourself to a new tool this Christmas with BaByliss PRO’s quietest ever dryer.

The brand-new Falco showcases innovative new technology and features crafted to meet the demands of the industry’s finest. With intuitive controls to minimise fatigue and a magnetic rear filter for enhanced durability. www.rdr.link/HAP011

��� WALKING IN A

WINTER WONDERLAND

���

Inspired by its own colour of the year, Cherry Pop, Goldwell has created a series of beautifully designed, bespoke Gift Boxes. Embodying passion, seduction and exciting possibilities, the festive sets are available in the Color, Rich Repair and Bond Pro ranges. www.rdr.link/HAP012

���

��� KNOTTY OR NICE? Flaunt your seasonal style this Christmas with Denman’s Signature Styling Set. Including the D90L Tangle Tamer Ultra, D38 Detangler, D81M Medium Style and Shine Brush and D6 Be Bop Handy Detangler Brush, all beautifully packaged in an embroidered beauty pouch. www.rdr.link/HAP013

��� I’M A LITTLE

CHRISTMAS CRACKER…

Christmas

This festive season, let clients spoil themselves with the Beauty Works Christmas Festive Beauty Crackers, each filled with a bestselling Beauty Works haircare treat: Argan Serum, 10-in-1 Miracle Spray, Dream Shine, Anti Frizz Serum, Hair Fragrance, Blow Dry Créme. www.rdr.link/HAP014

Wrapping...

038_PHR_NOV23new_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:52 Page 39

���

���

���

���

쐅

쐈

쐅 SLEIGH, WHAT?!

��� MAY YOUR

��� HAVE

YOURSELF A CURLY LITTLE CHRISTMAS! Supercharge your clients’ curls and coils this Christmas with the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Curl Expression Trio. With the Curl Expression Professional Shampoo, Mask and Cream, this limited-edition Moon Capsule collection offers deep hydration, heat protection and a silky-smooth finish. www.rdr.link/HAP015

��� JOY TO

THE WORLD! Take the fuss out of festive shopping this year, with ten tailored haircare gift sets from Joico. From recapturing a youthful bounce to making a statement at every holiday party, these sets promise to bring Christmas ‘joi’ no matter the hair type. www.rdr.link/HAP016

��� I’LL HAVE A

HAIR BE MERRY AND BRIGHT

Introducing the limited-edition Midnight Collection from Cloud Nine. Featuring the Original Iron, the Wide Iron and the Airshot, the collection comes in a luxurious midnight blue and gold finish, complete with a premium faux leather case for an extra touch of festive elegance. www.rdr.link/HAP017

Boost your retail offering this Christmas with a selection of luxury gift packs from Wella Professionals. Emulating the AW23 colour blocking trend, the duos are wrapped in stylish, 80s-inspired packaging in four lines: Vibrant & Protected Colour, Smooth & Nourished, Repair & Restored and Strong & Protected Colour. www.rdr.link/HAP018

BLUE CHRISTMAS WITHOUT YOU

Give the gift of #salonhaireverday this Christmas with Shed. With five festive gift sets to choose from, offer your clients a dream routine tailored for either coloured, blonde, damaged, thirsty or fine hair. Each set contains a shampoo, conditioner and multi-perfect treatment spray. www.rdr.link/HAP019

쐈 DREAMING OF A GREEN CHRISTMAS? Promise hydration and volume this Christmas with the Caviar Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture and Multiplying Volume Holiday Duos from Alterna. As well as offering restorative, luxurious haircare, both gift boxes are 100% sustainable. www.rdr.link/HAP020

39

038_PHR_NOV23new_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:53 Page 40

쐉

씈

씉

씊

씊 JINGLE BELL ROCKIN’

씋

씉 GIVE IT TO

SOMEONE SPECIAL

씈 MILANO MAGIC

씋 MAKE IT A

focus on moisture, reconstruction, volume, curls, smoothing, blondeness and illumination, complete with beautiful graphic work and precious metallic finishings.

Encouraging clients to pamper their loved ones or indulge in self-care, Keune has launched a diverse range of festive gift boxes available in four different product lines: Care Vital Nutrition, Care Color Brillianz, Care Absolute Volume and Care Keratin Smooth, all wrapped in sustainable packaging.

www.rdr.link/HAP022

www.rdr.link/HAP023

www.rdr.link/HAP025

GIFT OF GREEN

To celebrate this year’s holiday season, ALFAPARF Milano Professional has released seven Semi di Lino Limited-Edition Gift Boxes. Named ‘Walking around Milano’, the sets

www.rdr.link/HAP024

For its Holiday 2023 Collection, Oribe has collaborated with artist and designer, Louis Barthélemy, to create seven limited-edition gift sets. Inspired by brand co-founder Oribe Canales’s glamour and spirit, the collection is available in the following ranges: Gold Lust, Côte d’Azur Fragrance & Body, Hair Alchemy, Signature Style and Shine & Style.

쐉 UNWRAP THE Combining the avant-garde style of renowned Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen with Aveda’s commitment to sustainability, the Aveda x Iris van Herpen Holiday Collection includes three luxurious, limited-edition accessories: a hair cuff, hair pin set and cosmetic pouch. www.rdr.link/HAP021

For its Christmas gift sets this year, KMS has collaborated with street artist Alana McDowell to create striking and joyful packaging. Including the Moist Repair, Add Volume and Colour Vitality lines, the bright and sweeping elements across the design pay homage to smooth and flowing locks of hair.

DECEMBER TO REMEMBER

038_PHR_NOV23new_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:53 Page 41

씌

씌 BUT WAIT – THERE’S MYRRH! Step into an Alternate Hydrality with Amika’s holiday gift sets, featuring a full-sized Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-in Conditioner, along with a mini Dream Routine Overnight Hydration Treatment. www.rdr.link/HAP026

씍 A RETRO REVIVAL Celebrate the holidays in vintage style with R+Co. Providing everything your clients need for the small screen, including strengthening, softening and smoothing, this set includes the Television Perfect Hair Shampoo and Conditioner and a complimentary R+Co Death Valley Dry Shampoo. www.rdr.link/HAP027

씍

씎 LET IT CURL, LET IT CURL, LET IT

CURL!

Encouraging you to rethink textured haircare this festive season, Revlon Professional’s RE/START CURLS works to balance the scalp’s microbiome through targeting the specific needs of textured hair. Choose from either the Tight Curls & Coily Hair or Waves & Loose Curls sets. www.rdr.link/HAP028

씎

씏 SANTA CLAUS IS COMING TO TOWN! Offering salon owners a fantastic opportunity to boost their retail sales during the holiday rush, introducing three salon-exclusive Schwarzkopf Professional gift packs: 1. Bonacure Clean Performance, to cleanse, nourish and revitalize hair; 2. Fibre Clinix, to customise hair repair and strengthen; 3. BLONDME, to maintain and enhance blonde locks. www.rdr.link/HAP029

씏

FRAGRANT FESTIVITIES With notes including white jasmine, lily of the valley and amber, the Kerasilk Gift Boxes offer a beautifully light and caring scent this festive season. With each fragrance developed in collaboration with French perfumer, Michel Gouges, the gift sets are available with either a Smoothing or Recovery focus. www.rdr.link/HAP030

CHRISTMAS GIFTING WRITTEN IN THE STARS Gift a galaxy of good hair days with the shimmering Dreamland Limited Edition Deluxe Set from ghd. Dusted in an alluring jade and enhanced with pink metal accents, the ghd platinum+ styler and ghd helios professional hair dryer are enclosed in dusky pink velvet cases for the ultimate seasonal glamour. www.rdr.link/HAP031

41

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:54 Page 42

Lights!

Camera!

Action!

Known for his flawless colour work and immaculately executed photographic collections, Mark Leeson’s iconic style has seen him scoop over 50 national/international awards, including the much-coveted British Hairdresser of the Year title, for which he is nominated again this year.

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:54 Page 43

special partnership

Mark’s creativity, combined with his interest in inspiring colourists and hairdressers through education, platform shows and collections, signalled a really exciting time for Revlon Professional when he took the role of Global Ambassador.

enjoyed a lifelong career behind the chair, my most stand-out days are ones I’ve spent mentoring up-and-coming individuals.

Proud to be working with a company that encourages strong, confident consumers to express their personality through their hair, Mark’s global presence has gone from strength to strength.

As I cast my mind back over the year, I am sure you will join me in thinking ‘where did that time go?!’

Mark is also renowned for his iconic brand of glamorous, wearable hair, and his passion for mentoring. Pro Hair’s Editor, Nicola Shannon, couldn’t therefore think of a more perfect partner for a series of features entitled ‘LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! The fourth part of this Special Partnership sees Mark guiding two hairdressers from the Revlon Professional portfolio, as he helps to bring their creative vision to life.

And here we are… on one of those stand-out days for our fourth Special Partnership with Pro Hair…

When we shot our November/December cover back in June, we were still looking forward to our summer holidays, and yet here we are now on a countdown to Christmas once again.

“Happy Christmas and, more importantly, let’s hope 2024 brings more peace to our world.”

“LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! is the salon stylist’s introduction to session work”, says Mark. “We ask the hair stylists to turn up with their favoured tool kit and each are presented with a model – plus the styling portfolio from Revlon Professional (of course!). Throughout the course of the day a collection is created.”

It’s been a challenging year to say the least, but I’m delighted to see so many of my industry colleagues getting through it and creating amazing things.

As I write this, I am delighted to confirm that I’ve once again been nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year 2023. Thank you so very much to any of the people who took the time to vote for me.

So, I’m thrilled to once again present the work from two members of our Revlon Professional family. Mentoring Tina and Adele was thoroughly enjoyable – we had such a great day extolling the virtues of being ‘red or dead’!

I hope you enjoy the results.”

“I have always been a firm believer that what you give with the left hand, you receive with the right, and I’ve stuck with that philosophy throughout my career. Although I’ve

Mark Leeson

43

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:55 Page 44

STAR STYLISTS Adele Robinson, Company Haircutters Belfast Tina Lombardi, Moda Hairdressing Bristol

Mark Leeson “Out of all the shades on the colour spectrum, copper is one that I absolutely adore. Tina and Adele capitalised on our models’ beautiful base shades, sketching out their ideas and then showcasing them with texture, imagination and forward-thinking trend finishes – an overall fantastic day.”

STAR DIRECTOR Mark Leeson @ Mark Leeson, Global Ambassador, Revlon Professional

STAR CAMERAMAN Chris Bulezuik

STAR WARDROBE Joli Gidd

STAR MAKEUP Lauren Mathis

STAR SOCIAL Bella

STAR PRODUCTS Revlon Professional

Tina Lombardi – Moda Hairdressing “I had such a great day working with the team behind this brillant feature! It was so good to collaborate with such a fabulous model and be under the very cool and calm direction of the man himself Mark Leeson. It’s certainly a day that I will never forget”

W

IT

H

MA

RK LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:56 Page 45

special partnership

The hair was blow-dried using Revlon Professional StyleMasters Amplifier Mousse for volume and support, and finished with a little Revlon Professional StyleMasters Creator Matt Clay for definition and texture. The hair had a final spritz with Revlon Professional StyleMasters Modular hairspray for hold.

Firstly, Revlon Professional StyleMasters Lissaver was applied for heat protection. The hair was then loosely curled with tongs, before using Revlon Professional StyleMasters Reset and Revlon Professional StyleMasters Fiber Wax for texture and support. The hair was finished with a little spritz of Revlon Professional StyleMasters Photo Finisher.

Adele Robinson Company Haircutters “Well, it was certainly worth the flight! It was such a fantastic experience to work alongside Tina and, of course, to be guided by Mark.“

The hair was blow-dried using Revlon Professional StyleMasters Orbital and a small amount of Revlon Professional StyleMasters Amplifier Mousse. The hair was then textured with Revlon Professional StyleMasters Reset and finished with Revlon Professional StyleMasters Pure Styler.

The hair was blow-dried with Revlon Professional StyleMasters Modular Mousse mixed with a small amount of Revlon Professional StyleMasters Fanaticurls. The hair was then curled using Revlon Professional StyleMasters Lissaver before finishing with Revlon Professional StyleMasters Reset, Revlon Professional StyleMasters Glamourama and Revlon Professional StyleMasters Modular hairspray.

45

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:56 Page 46

Tina Lombardi

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:57 Page 47

Tina Lombardi

IT

H

MA

RK LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

47

special partnership

W

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:57 Page 48

Adele Robinson

042_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:57 Page 49

IT

Adele Robinson

H

MA

RK LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

To find out more or to become a Revlon Professional stockist contact us on 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com (UK) or +353 (0)1886 9300/ customerservice.ire@revlon.com (IE) To pick up tips, trends and style inspiration, follow @RevlonProfessionaluk on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, or visit www.revlonprofessional.com.

49

special partnership

W

050_PHR_NOV/DEC23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:58 Page 50

Emy Roccabella Danilo Giangreco

Maria Ianiri Maria Grazia Salon

050_PHR_NOV/DEC23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:58 Page 51

COVERSTARS 2023 delivered four exclusive Lights!

Camera! Action! collaborations with Revlon Professional. Over the year, multi award-winning hairdresser, Mark Leeson, has mentored stylists from the Revlon Professional portfolio family. All of whom have welcomed the opportunity to work with such a master of the craft, learning from his experience and creative vision to achieve some beautiful imagery and exclusive front covers for Pro Hair.

Natasa Stantic Brajovic Andrew Jose

Tina Lombardi Moda Hairdressing

“I am thrilled to have worked so closely with the hair pros from the Revlon Professional portfolio family on the four exclusive front cover shoots for Pro Hair this year.

Mentoring the teams and helping them bring their creative visions to life using Revlon Professional products has been one of the highlights of 2023 for me.”

51

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 13:59 Page 52

lusso spo

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:00 Page 53

MEANING ‘SPORTS LUXE’ IN ITALIAN, LUSSO SPORTIVO IS A BLEND OF HIGH-END LUXURY AND URBAN, RETRO GLAMOUR. PACKED FULL OF EDGE AND ATTITUDE, THE COLLECTION TAKES NOTES FROM LUXURY ITALIAN BRANDS SUCH AS GUCCI AND FERRARI TO SHOWCASE AN EXCITING DISPLAY OF VIBRANT STREET STYLE THAT BLUR THE LINES BETWEEN FASHION AND CULTURE. Hair: Tim Scott-Wright and Teri Lowe Make-Up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Michael Young

ortivo

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:00 Page 54

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:00 Page 55

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:00 Page 56

052_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:01 Page 57

058_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:02 Page 58

A stunning collection created

by Schwarzkopf Professional UK & Ireland ambassadors to celebrate the launch of the new BLONDME lighteners.

Sharon Malcolm – Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing

058_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:02 Page 59

Hair Team: Tim Scott-Wright, Nikita Fisher, Brooke Evans, Sharon Malcolm Make-Up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Michael Young

Tim Scott-Wright – The Hair Surgery

The Power of Blonde.

058_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:03 Page 60

Nikita Fisher – Palmer Fisher London

058_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:03 Page 61

Brooke Evans – BE Ironbridge

062_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:04 Page 62

@lukebensonhair

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, GROOMER AND NEW SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US – YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensoncreative and @lukebensonsalon

@lukebensonhair

KEUNE: SECRETS OF SESSION My Secrets of Session course is something I’ve taught independently for a while, but I now have an updated version affiliated with Keune in my role as Global Ambassador. On the first day, I show tips and tricks of session styling with live models, then on day two we have a photoshoot set up where the students bring in a model, create a look and get a beautiful final image for their portfolios. This month, I called in Alex Barron-Hough to shoot the images and Katie Moore for the wonderful make up looks – it was so nice to add such a collaborative feel to the course, it really shows how important these relationships are in creating beautiful imagery.

062_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:04 Page 63

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

MARTIN KEMP Martin is a long-term client, and the shoot I worked on for his exclusive collection with Sainsbury’s is finally out! I’m really pleased with all of the imagery and look forward to shooting the next drop of the range. @lukebensonhair

ROMAN KEMP AT MTV UK This was day one of a 3-part series for Paramount shot at MTV UK. It’s always a good day shooting with one of my best mates; I love being able to witness the diversity he has in his skillset with all of the different things he works on. Everything was top secret – with no phones allowed on set – so you’ll have to wait to see the show..!

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

63

064_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:05 Page 64

VISIT:

LUKE BENSON HAIR Celebrity Hairdresser and Pro Hair Contributor, Luke Benson, walks us through his brand-new salon in the beautiful market town of Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR? To be honest, although I had a good idea of what I wanted, it was something that I left largely in the control of my designer when it came to the execution. I told her that I wanted the feeling of a high-end, luxury London salon brought to the high street of Berkhamsted.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN? I was heavily influenced by luxury lifestyle buildings like hotels and boutique shops. I actually made a moodboard of looks and details that I loved. After that, it was a case of being inspired by what was already in place in order to work more sustainably. The unit had a very unique ceiling, so that was something that we wanted to expose and make a feature out of.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER? I used Consilio Interiors. They are a local company, and that community feel is something I really focused on in so many areas of the salon. The company’s owner is actually my friend who has modelled for me in countless industry shows, so it just felt right that she did this with me too.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR. It feels expensive and unique, but there is still a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere even though it’s dark. The dark walls and materials are complemented with perfect lighting, ensuring the hair colours always show true.

The sections are all custom made with built-in lights around the mirrors, this allows clients to feel and look their best when they see the final result.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN? I want them to be blown away – and judging by the reactions since opening, they have been! I want clients to know they’re in a really cool, modern space, whilst also feeling relaxed.

WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN? Each section is over two metres tall without being overwhelming; they’re well-lit and custom made from beautiful materials. The ceiling has been sprayed jet black to enhance the unique shape, paired with black metal track lighting to give an industrial feel but in a subtle way – it’s warm, not stark or hard. We also have a very pink instagrammable toilet!

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES/SPECIAL FEATURES IN THE SALON? Our reception desk is a huge piece of stone that is very impactful when clients arrive. It’s made from Silestone’s new HybriQ Romantic Ash as a bespoke reception desk. As it’s composed of a high percentage of recycled materials, we were able to create a beautiful and durable work surface, whilst also minimising our environmental footprint.

HOW ELSE HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN? As well as the Silestone, we also chose to preserve the existing concrete structure of the salon’s ceiling. Instead of boarding over it, we...

064_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:05 Page 65

salon profile ...just painted it – this provided a clean and contemporary look whilst still keeping the amazing shapes and texture. By doing so, we avoided unnecessary waste and saved resources that would have been used to cover up the existing structure.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL? Salon IQ - it’s got so many features that help to grow the business, including automatically sending commission and taking reports to my accountants. It’s also really simple to use the online booking system for clients – we have a lot of bookings made out of hours which it helps massively with.

DID YOUR PRODUCT BRAND/ COLOUR HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN? Not really, but the fact that Keune are now B Corp certified made me really focus on sustainability as much as possible – that’s one of the reasons I’m also using Leaf scissors and Easydry towels.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY? The backwashes and chairs are all Pietranera, made in Italy. They are so luxurious, comfortable and in-keeping with the salon design. In fact, the backwashes can be fully reclined to add to the relaxing backwash experience.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM? My assistants wear Luke Benson Hair black t-shirts, but I want everyone else to be able to show off their individuality. I think it subconsciously makes clients feel at ease when their stylist has their own personal style, it can help them to find common ground.

65

066_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:06 Page 66

cooks on a Sunday, and then we might argue over the gardening! I always make sure I have one sports massage and one facial per month as part of my wellness routine, but I am in the process of scheduling another day off during the week to have time to fully recharge as I tend to get burnt out otherwise.

“This was taken on a female business owner retreat in Ibiza in 2022. On this trip I met some incredible women, ate raw food, chanted, had a hippie read my aura, learnt a lot about growing your business and got to dress as a cowgirl!”

quick fire favourites

minutes with

JORDANNA COBELLA Jordanna Cobella, Owner of Cobella and London Hairdresser of the Year 2022, talks Cowgirls, Colour Blocking and Camden Market.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU. There is no typical working day for me, which is why I love this industry so much! Last week, I was on Lorraine talking all things hair and trends, taught a colour masterclass for a salon in Reading, shot a campaign for a brand, and then had two fully-booked days in my salon with my wonderful team in Kensington. Each week is super varied – I say yes to every opportunity and split myself between photo shoots, running my salon and doing education.

Each role requires a completely different skillset and I love the challenge of juggling them all. I also deliver international educational seminars – I’ve done 12 trips abroad this year, it’s absolute chaos but I love it!

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME? I have every Sunday off and spend it walking the dogs with my boyfriend. We either go to Columbia Road Flower Market or Camden Market to model hunt and people-watch, I love the fashion and characters you see there. My boyfriend has two restaurants, so he often

1

TO EAT: I LOVE THE FOOD STALLS AT MERCATO METROPOLITANO IN WATERLOO. I’M A CHEESE ADDICT, BUT I ALSO LOVE MANGOS, A VEGGIE ROAST AND ANY TYPE OF RICH CHOCOLATE DESSERT.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION? It’s a combination of colour blocking with a western cowgirl/city farmer chic aesthetic. I just love the panel colouring that’s trending right now, plus I’m always having a cowgirl moment. My dream is to retire with my own rescue farm and heaps of animals, including alpacas – I already have three poodles!

2

TO VISIT: I WOULD LOVE TO GO TO THE BIGGEST ANTIQUES MARKETS IN GERMANY AND FRANCE, THEY LOOK EPIC AND I LOVE COLLECTING FURNITURE FOR MY HOUSE. TO LISTEN: I’LL ALWAYS LOVE COUNTRY MUSIC, MOTOWN, JAZZ AND SOUL. PODCAST-WISE, I LISTEN TO DR RANGAN CHATTERJEE, DIARY OF A CEO AND HOW I BUILT THIS.

3

4

TO WATCH: A WES ANDERSON FILM, GOGGLEBOX OR RACE ACROSS THE WORLD

5

TO READ: MY FAVOURITE BOOK IS IKIGAI: THE JAPANESE SECRET TO A LONG AND HAPPY LIFE.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT? My fave wardrobe item is my cowgirl hat – it’s fashionable but also super convenient as my hair is bleached and I need protection from the strong sun!

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS? My proudest hairdressing moment was working alongside the wonderful Stewart Roberts and joining him in cutting hair for the homeless. The experience really reawakened me to the power of human connection.

067_PHR_NOV23_Layout 1 03/11/2023 14:06 Page 67

FOLLOW OUR

insta

@prohairmag

CAUGHT ON CAMERA We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages.

From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all!

We are also interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor…

For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of Pro Hair.

Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information.

Alan Howard ..........................................................(pages 20,21) www.rdr.link/HAP100

NHBF................................................................................(page 32) www.rdr.link/HAP104

Denman International Ltd ............................................(page 13) www.rdr.link/HAP101

Revlon Professional ..................................................(pages 2,3) www.rdr.link/HAP105

Great Lengths Dist. ........................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAP102

Revlon Professional ......................................................(page 37) www.rdr.link/HAP106

International Hair Cosmetics/ASP ............................(page 25) www.rdr.link/HAP103

Revlon Professional ..........................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAP107

67

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 13/09/2023 10:47 Page 1