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APRIL 2020
Professional APRIL 2020
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ISSUE 04
“Locks Down” “Spreading the hair love not the virus” We are most definitely in uncertain and unnerving times but here at Professional Hairdresser we are able to work remotely and we will continue to create relevant content for you, our readers, through the magazine, the website and our social media channels. As many of you will be unable to leave home, we are also going to do everything we can to create and provide you with an engaging and relevant distraction. We will be creating regular bulletins that will be arriving in your inbox. “Locks Down – spreading the hair love not the virus” will mean industry relevant content will still be coming your way featuring everything from new products and online training to need-to-know facts and hairdressing human interest stories. You can subscribe to receive these on our website. We all need to look out for each other, protecting the vulnerable and being kind. Keep well and keep safe. The Pro Hair Team
APRIL 2020
COVER: Steven Smart PHOTOGRAPHY: Jamie Blanshard
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Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
REGULARS 6
NEWS Industry goings on
PEOPLE 10 HOOKER & YOUNG With Christopher Appleton 15 THE SALON CHAMPION With Andrew Barton 18 PRO HAIR 24 LIVE LOOKS
LIVE ’20 REVIEW
50 SALON CLOSE-UP With MAYFIVE Hair 52 PINK COLLECTION With Shelley Pengilly
BRUSHES 61 TAKE ON TANGLES Brush round-up 63 SPOTLIGHT ON Kent Brushes
PRODUCTS 66 What’s New
COLOUR 38 COLOUR CLOSE UP With Wella Professionals 40 STEP BY STEP With Wella Professionals
BUSINESS 70 Alan Simpson 71 Robert Masciave 72 Michael Smith
SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE
PINK SPECIAL 44 PRETTY IN PINK Instagram-worthy Interiors 46 SALON CLOSE-UP With 81 Rose Garden 48 SALON CLOSE-UP With Rose & Wild
73 GREEN QUEEN KARINE
MENS 74 MEN IN BACK With Jim Shaw
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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
Congratulations to Nëal and Wølf who have been shortlisted in three categories at the Pure Beauty Global Awards 2020.
When the F.A.M.E Team met Sally
Sally Brooks is the latest hairdresser to inspire the 2020 F.A.M.E Team
Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks is the latest icon to lend her unbelievable expertise to the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s 2020 F.A.M.E. Team, having invited the group down to an inspirational mentoring day at her salon, Brooks & Brooks, in London. The day left this year’s team exceptionally motivated after gaining an insight into her techniques, inspirations and concepts. “In the morning we talked about how inspiration works and how Sally gets inspired,” said team member Jose Domene. “She helped us with finding our creative voice, or at least getting a better idea of where it comes from and what it means to each of us. She also gave us so much to think about, like; what do we want to be remembered for?” In the afternoon it was time to play with hair and learn some of Sally’s innovative techniques for creating textures. “This wasn’t about worrying too much about creating any particular look,” says Jose. “But more on finding our own touch and feeling, and using the mirror to find something you haven’t seen before. I was amazed to be honest.” Casey Coleman, also a team member, was similarly inspired, adding: “Aside from having an incredibly inspiring day, Sally also spoke to us about what it is we actually want. Her advice is second to none – she has a way of just
Congratulations to Passion4Hair on opening its first education academy!
being human with no smoke and mirrors. This day might just have changed my career path; and it’s all thanks to being on the F.A.M.E. Team.”
LOCKS DOWN: SPREADING THE HAIR LOVE NOT THE VIRUS. Look out for ‘Locks Down’ in your inbox. We’ll be sending you a regular bulletin of uplifting news, advice, education and inspiration to keep spirits high in these testing times. Not already subscribed? Sign up on our website!
SQUAD GOALS
INTRODUCING THE NEW SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM FOR 2020
Schwarzkopf Professional has announced the brand new Young Artistic Team for 2020/21. A judging day took place at the Hunter Collective in London where talented hairdressers worked hard to impress the judges with their skills, techniques and creativity. The judging panel included the incredibly talented and renowned session stylist Louis Byrne, Chair Salon owner and F.A.M.E team member Casey Colman, industry star and session stylist Pete Burkill and How to Cut It podcast extraordinaire, Dom Lehane. As part of the criteria each entry had to be coloured with Schwarzkopf Professional beforehand and at least 5cm of hair had to be cut off on the day. Other than that, hopefuls were free to create their own distinctive looks. The judges were looking at how the entrants showcased their personalities through their looks. Of course they were nervous, but each finalist showed amazing creativity and passion, reflecting the wealth of talent rising up through the hair industry. All four judges agreed that it was a fantastic day and they loved watching the young artists show what they were made of. Previous YAT member Pete Burkill added “We cannot wait to follow their journey throughout the year…watch this space!”
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The 2020/21 Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team are: Georgia Todd, Rick Roberts Lucy Routledge, Robert John Alannah Finnegan, Natural Hair Company Claire McGowan, Bombshell Alijah Nerheim, Rainbow Room Rachel Kirk, Brassy 2 Sassyy Congratulations to the new team, we can’t wait to see where this year takes you!
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All Stars Announced
Barry Kieran
AMERICAN CREW REVEALS THE UK AND IRELAND WINNERS OF ALL ALL-STAR CHALLENGE. American Crew, a leader in professional men’s grooming, has unveiled the country winners for the annual All-Star Challenge men’s grooming competition that celebrates world-class talent in the male hair and grooming industry. In the competition, men’s hairstylists and barbers from throughout the UK and Ireland are challenged to deliver their ultimate interpretation of the American Crew man. The cut, the model and the photograph all play a part in making a winner. Hundreds of entries were judged in the process and the 2020 winners are… UK All-Star Challenge Winner – Aimee McPherson, Hidden Heights Creative Studio Ireland All-Star Challenge Winner – Barry Kieran, Signature Hair
Aimee McPherson
These two country winners now go on to the next round of selection where the Global Committee will name the five All-Star Challenge 2020
winners from across the globe. These five global winners will win $5,000, and an all-expense paid trip to Los Angeles to participate an editorial photo shoot alongside American Crew Founder, and renowned photographer, David Raccuglia. Congratulations Aimee and Barry!
Proxima Nova Bold
Fundraising Fortune THE HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY BALL IS A HUGE SUCCESS.
Hosted at Atmosphere 28, Millbank Tower on London’s sparkling Embankment, guests donned their glad rags for the Hair & Beauty Charity Ball. Glitz and glam in abundance, the annual fundraising event saw 200 guests from across the industry raise an impressive £9000 on the night. The evening encouraged donations through guest pledges and an interactive Heads & Tail game. Alongside the networking and entertaining, a stunning runway show with the theme ‘Diversity’ was choreographed on the night. Guest hair artists included Charlie Taylor for Wella Professionals, Charles Worthington for L’Oréal Professionnel, Tracey Devine-Smith for ASP, and Linnaean Art Team for Goldwell, with nails provided by OPI, lashes from Salon System and makeup from professional salon brand, Delilah Cosmetics. Charity beneficiaries, hairdresser Katie Barnes and beauty therapist Jodie Keegans also both took to the stage to share their personal experiences on how the charity has been able to support them in their time of need. Awards were also presented on the evening. The Jeffery Bonn Fundraising Award, in recognition of long-standing charity treasurer and trustee Jeffery who passed away in 2018, was presented to Darrel
Starkey-Gettings from Taylor Hair Studio for his passion and ideas for raising funds and awareness. The President’s Award was presented to Toby Dicker from The Chapel for his dedication and support in championing the charity over many years including his 2019 London to Barcelona bike ride that raised
over £9,000 for the charity. “What an evening! The venue with its stunning London skyline that took guests breaths away, our very powerful guest beneficiaries speakers who really helped to explain the great work the charity is doing at the grass roots of helping those in need, to the recognition of our two award winners plus the fun and laughter everyone had raising money on the night, was just wonderful. It’s very easy to forget that there are many, many people in our industry struggling and it’s important that events like our fundraising ball help to bring that message to the limelight. I want to thank all the committee who volunteer their time to keep the charity front of mind, our sponsors and fundraisers who ensure we can help those who need it and on the night, our guests who really dug deep and championed what it is we are doing for the charity,” concluded Samantha Grocutt, President of Hair & Beauty Charity.
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HOOKER AND YOUNG
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Christopher Appleton
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PEOPLE
Chris Appleton, the lad from Leicester who is now the Color Wow Brand Ambassador with 1.2 million followers on Instagram and a celebrity client list that is beyond impressive! Now residing in L.A his life is a far cry from where it all started, but whilst back in the U.K we took the opportunity to catch up with Chris to get the ‘J’ low down on the recent Super Bowl performance and all things happening in the world of Mr Appleton. Michael: So, Chris, I know that everybody will want to know what is happening in your life right now and what makes you tick, but I always think the best place to start is right at the beginning and what your journey has been like to get to this point. Chris: Well, I suppose my passion for hairdressing began back when I was around nine years old and I would sit my mum down in a pretend salon at home and do her hair. At that time, it was about being happy and creative, but I also liked the idea of making people feel good. As hairdressers we have the ability to make people feel great and really lift their spirits and for me that remains the most rewarding part of what I do. Once that passion took hold of me, it has really just been a prolonged journey from that point. From the age of 13, I worked in a salon and I can still remember my very first day and seeing the people walk in and then walk back out after their haircuts looking so happy. From that moment on I have really just tried to make each opportunity count. Gary: Where did you start work? Was it in London?
knowing how different it is to do a photo shoot. When you do hair in the salon you create something that lasts six weeks or more, but for a shoot you’re creating something that is going to last six minutes and it is a real skill to be able to understand that hair is different and how that translates. Michael: As you know, the F.A.M.E Team is very important for both me and Gary and we play an active role in helping develop the careers of those involved, so it’s great to talk to someone whose life was really propelled by being on the team. What did you most love about being part of the team? Chris: In addition to teaching me so much about all of the various different elements of the industry, as well as the amazing trip to Australia – which was great – the best part for me was to be working with and learning from the crème de le crème of hairdressers. I was just like a huge sponge for the year, soaking up everything I possibly could. I learned so much throughout the year. The Fellowship was just so good at like giving back, you know, and that’s why I’m here now. I want to
support it because that was the beginning for me. Gary: How was everyone at the salon while you were away with the F.A.M.E Team? Chris: They were incredibly supportive. I would go off and do some amazing things, including some really big photoshoots, but I would always love coming back to the salon to see the clients and they were always willing to give me the freedom to do that. Michael: So you went from the F.A.M.E Team to working on X Factor and with people like Rita Ora, how did that happen? I know there will be a lot of people who would love to get into that side of the industry. Chris: I have been incredibly fortunate to work with some wonderful people, but every step of the way was a lot of hard work, blood, sweat and tears. I knew that I wanted to start moving into the fashion industry, so I went to work at the big fashion shows, including Milan, London and New York Fashion Week.
Chris: No, no. I started in a salon called Georges Hairdressing in Leicester. They were fantastic and really supportive, allowing me to grow in the salon, but then also outside of that as well. They were great at letting me explore and not feel trapped, which I will always be incredibly grateful for. I used to go off to London to do training, at Sassoon for example, and I’d always come back and not be able to wait to get back into the salon to show people what I’d learned. And then, inevitably, that got me more and more hungry to learn and improve. I was then chosen to be part of the Fellowship’s F.A.M.E Team, which was, and still is, an amazing platform for anyone who wants to experience more in the industry, to push boundaries and to work outside of a chair. I learned so much, for example
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PEOPLE
I was never paid to do that and had to cover all of my travel and living costs. At the time, I had won Eastern Hairdresser of the Year at the BHA’s and been part of the F.A.M.E Team, but I was just there to pass pins and start from the bottom – there definitely wasn’t a golden pass. I would just absorb it all and try to learn as much as possible. Then, from there, I started to do photo shoots and more things for magazines and editorials. One day, I was then on a shoot with Rita Ora and her make-up artist mentioned that she was actually looking for a hair guy and just asked if I would possibly be available tomorrow. I wasn’t, I had to be back in the salon, but I knew that this wasn’t an opportunity I could pass up, so after a call to my boss I booked a hotel and I just sat there waiting to hear from them. Then at about 1am they eventually text me to say that she was flying back to Los Angeles the next day but she wanted me to come and do her hair. As soon as I met her we just clicked and got on really well and she liked what I did and from there I was with her for a couple of years. Gary: Were you nervous when starting to do a celebrity? As we know, people look at their hair and will always have an opinion and won’t be scared to voice that. Chris: I was terrified. I have always been fearful of everything I’ve done
and would often feel as though I couldn’t get out of bed as I was so anxious. However, I had good people around me who supported and helped me get out of my own head. I would always be really stressed, but then as soon as I started doing the hair I would be able to relax – it is just where I feel most comfortable. I remember one time that I had a job with Christina Aguilera for The Voice in America and just being on the phone with my friend telling them that I didn’t think I could do it. I’m just this boy from Leicester trying to make it in Hollywood, everything was so big and I was just so fearful. However, from the moment I moved over to America, the one thing that has continued to motivate me was that if I didn’t make it work, then I’d have to go home. So, I was like, okay, I’m here with Christina and we had 20 minutes before she went live. I’d never done her hair before and I couldn’t breathe and didn’t really know what I was going to do, I just found myself moving her hair around. I then decided to ask if she would consider wearing a wig, as I had prepared one earlier. She initially said that she had tried wigs previously but had found them uncomfortable, but I convinced her to give this one a go and, fortunately, she really liked it. Fifteen minutes later she was on TV and I was just watching the screen just breathing a huge sigh of relief, as she liked what I had done and it was all
OK. Everything then just moved on from there and after getting over that first hurdle, I felt much more confident in what I was doing. Michael: Alongside Christina Aguilera, you have also recently done one of the biggest sporting events in the world, the Super Bowl, with J-Lo. What was that like? Chris: It was absolutely crazy. I remember being in the salon when I was younger and the half-time show at the Super Bowl would often come up and people would say ‘did you see her hair, I thought it looked a bit frizzy’ and everyone would have a view, so that was definitely in the back of my mind. However, it all started about a week before the event and after chats with J-Lo I was trying to work out what kind of J-Lo would most people like to see. The one common thread with all of her iconic looks is glamour so I tried to create the most beautiful look I could. We did a few rehearsals of the show, with the last one being recorded in case it rained on the day. So 45 minutes before that last practice I was in the trailer and I decided to use a new curling iron that I’d never used before and I curled and pinned her hair. Then, I don’t usually do this, but I’ve got a cool hairdryer and cooled it to really bake it in and set it. I then normally take the pins out and it drops, and I give it a little brush and it’s all nice and cute. Then five
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minutes before she went out I took the pins out and it was so curly and I feared I had messed it up. But her daughter was in the background and she said, “Oh, you look like Vacation Barbie,” and other people really liked it too. We kept that look for the real performance and despite me over-analysing everything and being terrified that I had got it wrong, the feedback was amazing and I just realised that I had to be more realistic and kind to myself. Michael: You make no secret of the fact that when you do certain things, you still get nervous and I think that is really important to hear, as I think we live in a world now where people feel immense pressure to be the best that they can be, with many just thinking to themselves that I am not going to put myself through that stress. How do you get over those self-doubts? Chris: There is always the feeling in the back of mind that I am just a boy from Leicester and that I will one day be found out as a fraud, but I try and centre myself. I let myself go wild for a minute, but I have a process and that really works for me. You will often hear top sportspeople talking about getting themselves into the zone, where they have just done something so many times that it becomes second nature and they can then go out and repeat that process on the biggest stage and that is similar to me. I know I have done something so many times that I do know what I’m doing, I have worked hard to get to this point and that gives me confidence to go and do what I do. It is also important to be realistic, celebrate when something is good and be kind to
yourself. Anxiety can get hold of you and it can destroy you if you let it, but I have great people and family around me who all help ground me. Then beyond that, I just try and enjoy everything for what it is. Michael: I think everybody should do the one thing you said there Chris and that’s to be kind. It’s obviously important to be kind to others, but I think a lot of people beat themselves up too much and it’s so important to be kind to yourself. Don’t give yourself too much of a hard time because you can only do what you can do. Gary: I couldn’t agree more, especially as hairdressers. We all beat ourselves up. We all doubt ourselves. Did I do the best haircut? Was it the best colour? And I think we put a lot of stuff on our shoulders as well, because we feel very responsible for how people look. Michael: Can you give us an example of what a regular week in your life is like? Chris: It’s difficult to describe a typical week, as my schedule follows what other people are doing. Take this week for example, I finished with J-Lo on Monday, I did a photo shoot the next day, then I flew to New York and then back to Los Angeles. I then flew to Manchester for Pro Hair Live and this interview and I am off to London tomorrow to do This Morning before flying back to New York and then on to a photo shoot in Los Angeles. Finally, I’m meeting up with J-Lo again in Miami. Gary: That sounds pretty glamorous, but how do you keep track of what you need to do? Micheal: I was wondering that too. Someone like Jennifer Lopez obviously has an incredibly busy schedule, so do you work exclusively for one person at a time? Chris: When I was working with Rita Ora, it was definitely like that and I followed her everywhere. It was great learning curve, but after a couple of years I decided that I wanted to work with different people, to ensure I was able to continue to be creative as an artist and to keep challenging myself, so now I will often just fly in, create a look for someone and then move on, so that I never get too comfortable and things don’t get stale. Gary: Can I ask you. Was it always the plan that you were going to go to the US and do session celebrity hair? Chris: I think it was definitely something that I had hoped for but moving to America just seemed like a million miles away when I was practicing on my mum’s hair. Each step of the
way has just led me to this point though and I do feel incredibly grateful. Michael: What is next? Do you look into the future, or do you just like things to roll in and you go where you go? Chris: I’ve always got a game plan. I think the next steps for me are to expand on my commitment with a brand like Color Wow and how I can bring more to that. I also really want to give back a lot as well, so I speak a lot to audiences and I do my masterclasses, because I remember how inspirational it was for me to listen to people talk when I was a younger. For me, education is really important and I believe that as a community we should share and support each other. I feel like sometimes hairdressing can have an old-fashioned conception, that it’s bitchy and competitive, but kindness doesn’t go out of fashion and I don’t think there is enough of it. I feel people are becoming more aware of kindness to others, but also kindness to yourself, because the one thing I’ve learned is that it doesn’t matter how much money or success you’ve got, if you’re not happy then none of it feels good. Chris has definitely seized every golden opportunity that has come his way. Hard work and a determination to succeed has given him everything he hoped for and more. He has a journey and career envied by many, however it hasn’t been without its challenges and like most people he has had to overcome his own fears and anxiety to become the person he is today. We always love a story of success that starts from humble beginnings and Chris Appleton’s is certainly one of them. Where does he go from here? We’d like to say onto bigger and better and things, but things are pretty awesome right now. We salute you Chris Appleton.
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The
Salon Champion
Award winning Hairdresser and Headmasters Creative & Communications Director, Andrew Barton, has made it his mission to champion the salon hairdresser, promoting the value and career potential of the high street salon. Here in his regular exclusive feature for Professional Hairdresser he shares the importance of charity to salon business. After being named the British Hairdresser of the Year, which is definitely a highlight of mine, I realised it was my duty to showcase British Hairdressing as one of the best in the world. I knew the title gave me a voice and an opportunity to create awareness for charities that meant something to me personally. I was adopted as a child and I know my life could have been very different so a few years ago I decided to devote my personal charity activity to Coram BAAF, the UK’s leading adoption and fostering authority. Aside from running fundraising marathons for the charity, I work as Patron and am often a guest speaker at events. I also work with various charitable foundations as an ambassador including The Princes Trust encouraging enterprise with young people, Kidscape the UK’s leading anti-bullying charity and The Little Princess Trust as their Hairdressing Ambassador. In my work as the Hairdressing Ambassador for The Little Princess Trust I’m acutely aware of the effect that hair loss has on a child. Hair is such a personal part of your identity and understanding how connected people are to their hair is an essential part of good experience for any client. At Headmasters our philosophy is beautiful, confidence-boosting hair and I’m thrilled that Headmasters announced they are now the Official Salon for The Little Princess Trust and can help to raise awareness for this outstanding charity. Fundraising is a huge part of Headmasters DNA, so much so that we even have a dedicated award to the salon who raises the most for our chosen charity in one year. All of our stylists are fully trained to help clients who want to donate their hair and support The Little Princess Trust. To support The Little Princess Trust, I’ve created an exclusive tutorial video with guidelines to share across the industry to ensure that your hair donation is the correct length and in the best possible condition to be used in wigs. Giving back to your community is so important not only for your peace of mind and your team’s morale but it can also really benefit your business. Recent studies suggest that millennials are driven by social charitable responsibility with over 70% of them reporting that they’ll spend more with brands that support good causes. Of course, not all businesses have the internal support to work on large scale activities like Headmasters does, but everything helps.
So, I’ve added some points below to consider when thinking about working with a charity: 1. Incredibly feel good for the salon Helping others makes you feel good. Many want to volunteer or raise money, but it can be hard to fit into our busy lives. Having employer-sponsored activities will allow your teams the opportunity to do things they wouldn’t always be able to do. Raising money will bring your team together and promote a greater sense of camaraderie and unity among your team from a sponsored team run to a cake sale as they work towards a shared goal for your charitable cause. It will also reinforce to current employees that they made a good job choice. 2.Connect with your local community It also gives a great opportunity to connect with the local community and collaborate. As a salon owner I’m passionate about collaborating with my neighbouring businesses and local clientele so supporting local charity can support that engagement. 3 .Dedicated salon charity Another option is to sign a dedicated salon charity to help focus charitable activity. At Headmasters we work with a dedicated charity over a number of years that helps us channel fundraising activity and create awareness for the charity across our 56 salons, our teams and our clients. Prior to The Little Princess Trust we worked with The Teenage Cancer Trust for five years and raised over £106,000. Activities included everything from cake sales to charity bike rides where a team of Headmasters Stylists (including me) and the Directors cycled 360 miles over four days from England to Amsterdam. 4. Team building Giving your team a chance to give back to their communities helps to instil a sense of pride in themselves and your business. They will be proud to work for a company that supports charities that mean something to them, which can lead to increased loyalty and better retention. Try appointing one person to be in charge of your charity committee who can help allocate tasks and share information with your teams and on social media. Look into activities that will work for your salon from donation pots to ad-hoc fundraising events like Salon Team Bake Off & Sale, Pop-Up Braid Bar and Client Styling Evenings.
5. Support your own industry Make sure it’s a charity you and your team believe in. When its authentic, you, your team and also your clients will be enthusiastic in giving their time to your cause. The Hair and Beauty Charity is the official charity for the hair and beauty industries; an independent service dedicated solely to helping hair and beauty professionals in their hour of need. Last year, the charity received more than 300 applications for help, and currently has more than 100 long term beneficiaries. Haircuts4Homeless is such an inspiring charity set up by Stewart Roberts inspired by the actions of hairdressers in various parts of the world cutting hair for the homeless. Stewart set out to build a whole community of skilled hairdresser volunteers who give their time free of charge to give haircuts to homeless people. 6. Local Press Sharing the work you do with your chosen charity will benefit your company on many levels and show clients you are ethical and trustworthy. It will also help to differentiate you from your competition, which not only aids your brand but could also be used as a recruitment tool for attracting the top talent to your business. Tailoring your charitable activity to your business and ethos is a good idea and adapting PR & Marketing activities to embrace your chosen charity makes good business sense. 7. Tax Benefits There are tax benefits to a business that engages in charitable activity with tax deductions available for sponsoring and supporting charities and events. You must follow the rules and procedures in the right way and you must consult with your accountant to understand how this may work for your business. Taking all of this into account there’s lots for you to consider and I’m sure your mind is ticking as to how you could help and support a charity. For me it’s about giving back, it’s about helping others and it’s about supporting a charity that that aligns with my interests, my personal journey and the business. I’d love to hear about your charitable causes and how you as team are working together to support your chosen charity.
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Pro Hair Live’20 KNOWLEDGE IS POWER AND CREATIVITY IS KEY.
At the very heart of hairdressing Pro Hair Live 2020 delivered education, inspiration and creativity mixed with retail and networking opportunities. You came, you watched, you listened, you learnt and you made buying and business decisions all under the one roof. Salon owners, managers, stylists and colourists all enjoyed two days of experiencing the latest in products and accessories essential to salon life, as well as catwalk shows from some of hairdressing’s biggest names.
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The Importance Of Attending Trade Shows This article was sent to us by a valued reader and visitor. In her own words, LYNNE WEBSTER of Shimmers Hair Salon in St Helen’s, explains why she always attends PRO HAIR LIVE and the benefits she gets from it. The Importance of attending trade shows is paramount as it’s a great way to learn about what’s hot and what’s not. As a business owner of Shimmers Hair Salon I need to know how to keep on trend in order to gain knowledge and exposure to new fashions, products and resources that are available for my salon in order to be current – Pro Hair Live facilitates this. The knowledge you will gain at a show like Pro Hair Live is endless, varying from being the ‘observer’ browsing exhibitor stands, to watching the latest demonstrations, seminars or even having your own stage show. Attending trade shows will have a great impact on what you can achieve in your salon life on a day-to-day basis, as it is truly aspirational and will stimulate new ideas. Trade exhibitions give you the chance to meet up with brands you may not have come across having not attended. You can ask as many questions as you like to see if the brand or a new service would be a fascinating new addition to your salon with the potential of having a positive impact on your business and salon turnover. Attending is also a fabulous opportunity for networking, without having to go to great lengths as all the information and resources you need are simply under one roof – it’s a veritable playground of information to be exact. Personally I like to introduce myself to the brand exhibitors to see if what they have on offer will suit my salon needs. I am serious about my salon and leading my business into a fresh new direction which can only have a positive effect as it creates a new exciting buzz in the salon especially amongst my staff as they are eager to learn about new services and about new products and brands. It creates enormous hype. Pro Hair Live has an abundance of educational seminars ranging from business strategies to live hair demonstrations from the leaders in our industry. I firmly believe that ‘knowledge is power’, which will steer your business in a healthy direction maximising the longevity of your business. Another advantage of trade shows and exhibitions is that you can talk directly with the brands who can assess and evaluate your salon and what you may need right now to keep your salon, current and vibrant and to keep a healthy footfall continually through your salon door. Having attended Pro Hair Live both days every year since it first launched, this year’s exhibition was rather a special one. I had realised my current brand was not fulfilling my requirements anymore as the diversion had got out of control. My retail opportunities were zero, so I began to research new exciting brands that would suit my taste and my salon type ‘tribe’. With a passion for colour I noticed a ‘new brand on the block’ – Amika. They had begun to appear on social media outlets and I was loving it.
The ethos of Amika is wonderful: No animal testing, vegan, paraben and sulphate free. Incidentally, the brand name is derived from the Esperanto language meaning ‘a loved friend’ and ain’t that so cute?! First launched in Brooklyn, New York in 2007, they began as a hair tool retailer before they branched into products and they have a salon situated in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. 2018 saw the arrival of Amika to the UK and I had become more aware of this brand and my interest in this product line was rapidly developing. Alongside side my creative team we attended Pro Hair Live and there before my eyes was Amika with a very bold exhibition stand – I was smitten! The colourful, jaunty, street style packaging of the products is how you imagine wall art in the streets of Brooklyn, New York. It is a winner – so easy and attractive, I just knew the same appeal factor would resonate amongst my clients, giving me back the power and freedom to retail once more, therefore improving my sales and turnover. I became an Amika Salon there and then at Pro Hair Live and bought immediately into the deal. On the Fellowship Stage at Pro Hair Live James Earnshaw (Amika Brand Ambassador and BHA Midlands Hairdresser of the Year) and Naeemah LaFond (Global Artistic Educator/Director for Amika) took to the stage on both days. My team sat in the audience fascinated at the creativity of these two working with an emphasis on texture, varying from undone up do’s to perfectly executed braids and plaits in a truly Brooklyn street fashion style. To accommodate Amika my salon took on a whole new look, both inside and out, taking inspiration from the cool brand logo of skulls and psychedelic patterns that are to be seen on all the packaging – so quirky, so cool. I began to work alongside a graphic artist/sign maker to really capture what Amika is about, the outcome was amazing, a triumph in fact. Jenna Shafer, previously from New York, now residing in London is also an appointed Brand Ambassador and Art Team Member for Amika and she visited our salon for the product knowledge course ‘Dive into Amika’, where she went into depth about the product performance, hair suitability and the active ingredients that are to be found in the Amika products. The day was fascinating and we truly got to grips with the full range of products gaining an understanding in order to have the knowledge to retail on. Both myself and my creative team are looking forward to many years ahead working with Amika. It’s an exciting, bold and fresh brand to be reckoned with and it will give us sustenance to take us into many more business years to come.
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PHL REVIEW
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SUNDAY 23RD FEBRUARY 2020
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21
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PHL REVIEW
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MONDAY 24TH FEBRUARY 2020
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23
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Pro Hair Live 2020
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Christopher Appleton
Chris Bulezuik
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James Earnshaw & Naeemah Lafond
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Chris Bulezuik
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Jude Rizzo
Chris Bulezuik
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Desmond Murray
Andrew Smith
Jamie Blanshard
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Andrew Barton
Chris Bulezuik
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Karine Jackson
Chris Bulezuik
James Earnshaw
Suzie McGill
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Chris Bulezuik
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Hooker & Young
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Jamie Blanshard
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Steven Smart
Rick Roberts
Jamie Blanshard
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COLOUR CLOSE UP
Glaze
Talking
Officially called ‘toning’, Wella Professionals UK Colour Trend Expert, Zoë Irwin, prefers ‘glazing’ or ‘colour glossing’ which is more consumer friendly. As part of her role, Zoë has created a new glazing menu for Wella Professionals and she delights in the fact that not only does glazing make a colourist’s role more exciting, it also makes your clients’ hair look healthy, premium and expensive and is therefore valuable to your colour business.
FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HP010
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ZoÍ worked with Illumina Color to create her glazes and had the benefit of four new Illumina shades to play with‌ Illumina Color is Wella Professionals most advanced colour range to protect against hair damage. Its Microlight Technology protects the cuticles so they maintain their clarity, allowing the light to pass through to illuminate natural highs and lows from within creating sheer, natural and subtle results.
The fab new four There are now four new shades in Illumina Color to expand the cool blonde portfolio: 10/81: Great for lightening natural hair up to three levels. It offers neutralisation on warm yellow and orange undertones to achieve clean, sophisticated blondes. Also good for toning over pre-lightened hair to achieve extra cool icy results. 9/19: Great for gently neutralising golden hues when lightening or to create a soft, icy beige when toning pre-lightened hair. Use on natural hair to achieve natural beige blondes. 9/59: Great for toning natural hair depth 7/0 and lighter for a delicate and slightly warmer raspberry hue. It can be used over previously pre-lightened hair for a delicate blonde with brushed with blush. 8/93: Great for lightening natural hair on depth 5/0 and lighter. It is also beautiful for toning brunette Illuminage to maintain soft and natural highs in the hair.
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Glazing Contour
“My clients are obsessed with youthful effects and that is only achieved when glazing with ILLUMINA COLOR after lightening.” Zoë Irwin
with Zoë Irwin and Illumina Color
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
Apply Wellaplex N˚2 Bond Stabilizer to towel dried hair for 10 minutes. Rinse the hair.
Shampoo using Color Motion+ Shampoo and apply Blondor Seal and Care for five minutes. Rinse the hair.
Mix your Glaze. 1pt ILLUMINA COLOR, 2pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer. Section the hair.
Zoë’s TOP TIP
STEP 4
STEP 5
Towel dry the hair prior to the glaze to make sure you don’t dilute your end result.
Develop for 5-15 minutes with no heat.
Rinse the Glaze. Apply Color Motion+ Express Color Treatment to towel dried hair for 30 seconds, then rinse. Style with EIMI.
Lightening Formula 30g BLONDOR Freelights Powder 45ml 12% BLONDOR Freelights Developer 3ml WELLAPLEX N˚1
Glazing Formula with ILLUMINA COLOR Front hair line 5g 10/1 ILLUMINA COLOR 10g Copper Peach OPAL-ESSENCE by ILLUMINA COLOR 30ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer
Back section 10g 10/1 ILLUMINA COLOR 10g Copper Peach OPAL-ESSENCE by ILLUMINA COLOR 40ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer
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STEP BY STEP
Glazing Balayage
“The technique I love using is ‘Palm Painting’ which is from the French way of Balayaging.” Zoë Irwin
with Zoë Irwin and Illumina Color
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
Apply Wellaplex N˚2 Bond Stabilizer to towel dried hair for 10 minutes. Rinse the hair.
Shampoo using System Professional Color Save and apply Blondor Seal and Care for five minutes. Rinse the hair.
Mix your Glaze. 1pt ILLUMINA COLOR, 2pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer. Section the hair.
Zoë’s TOP TIP
STEP 4
STEP 5
Apply the glaze on the roots, start to develop, blend it to the mid-lengths and ends. Finish with the hairline application.
Develop for 5-15 minutes with no heat.
Rinse the Glaze. Apply System Professional Color Lock Emulsion Post Color Stabilizer for 5-10 minutes. Rinse. Style with EIMI.
Lightening Formula 30g BLONDOR Freelights Powder 45ml 12% BLONDOR Freelights Developer 3ml WELLAPLEX N˚1
Glazing Formula with ILLUMINA COLOR using new 9/59 30g 9/59 ILLUMINA COLOR 30g Platinum Lily OPAL-ESSENCE by ILLUMINA COLOR 120ml Wellexon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer
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@YUMIOFLONDON
@WILD.SALON
@WENAILDITLA
@ROSEANDWILDHAIR
Pretty in Pink Spring is finally in the air and as we begin to see the trees budding with blossom, the fields renewing to bright green and new life all around us, it’s certainly a time to think about change. Be swept up in our blooming, breezy INTERIORS feature of some of the most blissful salons we could find and think about what could be rejuvenated in your salon. @SLEEPSALONBKK
@PINKOFLONDON
@SALONMACE
@BOHOHAIRSALON
@ROSEANDWILDHAIR
@GLAMBYPOLLYSALON
@RHY _RHYS_HAIR_SALON
@RENUHAIRSTUDIO
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@RENUHAIRSTUDIO
@PINKOFLONDON
@SHARNIEWILLIAMSHAIR
@LADYMUCK.WESTDERBY
@NIMSALON
@MAYFIVEHAIR
@LASHX_WA
@MAGICMIRROR HAIREXTENSIONS
@PINKOFLONDON
@JESSICAMEGANSTUDIOS
@GLOBEAUTYLOUNGES
@CUTSHOP
@ENCHANTNAILATELIER
@DUCKANDDRY
@GLAMBYPOLLYSALON
@WENAILDIT
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INTERIORS
JEN REGAN, FOUNDER OF 81 ROSE GARDEN, DISCUSSES THE INSPIRATION BEHIND HER UNIQUE DÉCOR.
In my experience, a lot of hair and beauty salons offer a very similar semi-corporate vibe. The colours tend to be fairly clinical, often tending towards monochromes and unimaginative pastels. I have always found this uninviting and a little uninspiring. I totally understand that salons need to be practically laid out and easy to clean, but surely there has to be a little room for creativity? I want clients who visit 81 Rose Garden to feel like they have stepped into a magical environment. I try to provide the same kind of welcome as if they were coming to my home and I had put fresh flowers on the table, handed them a glass of Prosecco or cup of delicious coffee and pulled out all the stops to make their visit special. I put a great deal of thought into the client’s journey. How their first encounter would be with the front of house team when they check in, to their progress to the backwash or workstation. I wanted every stage of that experience to be filled with colour and roses and excitement and comfort when I first considered the design for the salon three years ago. The decorative theme is thoroughly feminine and no better illustrated than in the variety of pinks which range from cool and dusky to hot, hot, hot; contemporary in feel - illustrated by my bold use of clashing fabrics and prints as seen in the wallpaper and on the zebra stripped cushions, and then there’s the luxury shown in the choice of velvet stools and gold accents. It’s eclectic, magical, slightly boho and full of surprises. Areas for hair, nails, beauty and tanning are all separate, different and beautiful.
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“I wanted to make it fantastic from checking in, backwash and then to the chair. My imagination ran away with me and what emerged was warm colours and wallpaper and flowers an Alice in Wonderland experience!”
It’s certainly interesting and lush throughout. You could say I have unleashed my inner designer. I have selected props and colours that make me feel happy, in the hope that I can convey that random joy to everyone who comes here. Wherever the eye falls I have tried to create something of interest, so that each visit offers the chance to spot something new. Some of our clients have been coming here for months before they clock the flamingos. At 81 Rose Garden we have the best hairdressers, nail technicians and make-up artists, so why not decorate the salon in celebration of that excellence? I am so proud of my team here and they deserve a magical environment to work in just as our customers deserve to be treated to a few hours in a sanctuary far away from everyday life. My latest design project at the salon is the creation of an 80 cover restaurant called The Secret Garden where I have really let my imagination run riot. It features a carousel horse and swing seat hung from the ceiling. It opens in April and completes the vision.
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SIOBHAN JONES, CO FOUNDER OF ROSE & WILD, DESCRIBES HER NOSTALGIC FEEL-GOOD DESIGN.
“We wanted everyone to feel so comfortable that it almost felt like home so there are countless amounts of soft furnishings scattered throughout the boutique. The salon is built to make you feel good so the chosen pastel colour palette, which consists of a mass amount of pink and other delicate pastel tones, helps to evoke nostalgic, feel good connotations. Think candy floss, bubblegum and other objects from your childhood that make you feel good. As a hair boutique we like to spend a lot of our time getting to really know our clients and their hair so we specifically created an area called the consultation hub, which pretty much feels like you are in a living room. Filled with pink soft furnishings, a relaxing swing, illustrations designed for us in our boutique’s branded palette and inspirational books. This was so that our clients feel at ease when in a consultation and are able to feel really comfortable when sharing their wants and needs. We wanted to escape the ‘let’s do the same as last time’ routine that can happen at a hairdressing station under pressure and we wanted our clients to be able to escape from the stresses and strains of London’s hectic life and really enjoy the relaxed and serene haven that is Rose & Wild.”
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KATIE ALLAN, FOUNDER OF MAYFIVE HAIR, INVITES CLIENTS INTO HER JUNGLE.
“I always knew I wanted to create a ‘jungle’ like experience. I’ve always loved simplistic Scandi design and have gradually built on the salon design since I opened in 2018. I initially wanted to keep it as bright and light as possible, making clients feel like they are in a very chilled and zen environment and not like a traditional salon. After opening, as the first few months quickly passed I grew to learn what the salon space needed, not only for clients but for the staff too. After opening the salon, I soon realised I had a love for pink on green! When I opened the salon, I had a vision of filling it with lots of plants, something that has gradually developed, and still is! I wanted to give the salon a homely, fun, yet professional vibe in a location that felt like a community outside of London, so Chiswick fitted perfectly!
Ralphie is the resident Salon Sausage, he started in September 2018 when he was just eight weeks old and has been spoilt ever since! Clients request to have appointments on Ralphie days and also when he isn’t in the salon, the first question that is asked is ‘Where is Ralph?’ His day consists of, cuddles, barking, jumping on legs, having tummy tickles, being taken out for walks by multiple different people, posing for pictures in multiple different positions (the most popular is the ‘over the shoulder pose’) and playing with any other doggie guests that join us for the day. So probably the most stressful job at MAYFIVE!
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Shelley Pengilly Hair Shelley Pengilly using milk_shake Make-up Grace Sinnott Photography Dan Thomas
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BRUSHES
TAKE ON TANGLES
At the back bar, behind the chair or at home, detangling is an absolute must for all stylists. Here we’ve rounded up the some of the best BRUSHES in the business with mane-taming benefits so you can keep your toolkit – and clients – tangle free.
! The Balmain Detangling brush has special soft flexible bristles which ensure pain-free detangling while the soft tips massage the scalp to stimulate the blood circulation. Due to the waterproof design, this brush is perfect to use on both wet and dry hair. The Detangling Brush can be used on all hair types and works on wigs and hair with extensions. www.rdr./linkHP012
$ HH Simonsen’s award winning Wonder Brush is great for detangling all hair types and comes in four new Spring/Summer colours: Sorbet Mint, Sorbet Yellow, Sorbet Blossom and Sorbet Sky. The Wonder Brush features special SmartFlex bristles which protect against split ends and broken hair strands, while the round ball tips gently massage the scalp and stimulate blood circulation. This means that you will be left with healthy and well-groomed hair – no matter what kind of hair type your clents have. www.rdr./linkHP011
! The Kent Salon Curved Vent hairbrush has a moulded head which features 50 moulded flexible tuffs in a curved and vented chassis. The arc of the brush follows the natural shape of the head for an almost sensual brushing experience. The piece de resistance however comes from the addition of 10 rows of natural boar bristle to smooth, clean and add shine to the hair. It’s ideal for blow-drying, volumising or gentle grooming, reducing blow-drying times effectively without pulling the hair. www.rdr./linkHP013
! The Wet Detangler by Tangle Teezer is a hairbrush that understands how to treat wet and fragile hair expertly. With unique teeth that flex over tangles and knots with every single stroke, The Wet Detangler hairbrush quickly detangles hair confidently whilst helping to reduce breakage. www.rdr./linkHP014
# The Paul Mitchell 413 Sculpting Brush does much more than sculpt hair. Use it to detangle wet or dry hair, blow-dry and finish the perfect hairstyle. This go-to hairbrush is great for everything from creating a sleek up-do to a polished bob, and it’s now available in the Limited Edition Paul Mitchell 40th Anniversary design. www.rdr./linkHP015
" Head Jog’s 09 Straw Paddle Brushes are made from environmentally friendly bio-material. The ultra light air cushion is made from natural rubber, rather than synthetic rubber, which is sustainable, biodegradable and recyclable. The Straw Brushes massage the scalp with the soft pin, high resilience bristles that are kinder to the hair with less breakage, and can be used as a detangling brush on wet or dry hair. Available in colours blackberry, blueberry, raspberry and gooseberry. www.rdr./linkHP016
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" Great Lengths’ premium, high performance brushes now have a new look. The award winning Large Paddle Brush, Medium Oval Brush and Finishing Brush now have a slick and sophisticated black shine finish. Each is easy to use and is made with natural rubber cushion and pure boar bristles, specifically designed for detangling extensions. With use, hair is left undamaged, easy to manage and tangle free with a sleek, soft and shiny finish. www.rdr./linkHP017
" The Pete paddle brush by Evo is a multi-purpose styling brush suited for smoothing and detangling hair. Its natural, soft rubber cushion offers improved detangling and gentler styling, while the ball-tipped ionic pins are high heat resistant and reduce frizz and improve manageability. It is also made with wood from well-managed forests. www.rdr./linkHP019
! Designed for performance, comfort and gentleness, the Scalp Brush from Hercules Sagemann features soft, rounded pins made of high-quality nylon. Now available in Copper, the Scalp Brush glides through even the most knotted hair without tugging or pulling, placing less stress on both hair and scalp. Each stroke from the brush also improves circulation to the scalp and encouraging healthy hair growth, while the ultra-smooth brushing motion creates less friction. www.rdr./linkHP020
# Designed for longer lengths, the Remi Cachet Paddle Brush glides through the hair to detangle. It can be used on wet and dry natural hair or extensions, as well as for blow drying and brushing out curls. Its gentle detangling performance is down to the soft bristle technology reducing pulling and tugging to glide straight over the extensions bond areas or scalp without causing any tension. The Remi Cachet Tangle Tamer is ideal for those with mid lengths, or as an extra brush to take out and about in a handbag. It’s another great detangler, with soft bristles and a cushioned air-pad for avoiding knots and leaving the hair silky-smooth. www.rdr./linkHP021
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! For fast and effective detangling and styling on mid to long hair, the ghd paddle brush works without generating static. Whether it’s getting rid of knots, creating sleek blow-dries or smoothing hair into ponytails and up do’s, this brush is a classic. It features a broad flat base and a soft touch, non slip finish handle, perfect for super smooth looks in the salon. www.rdr./linkHP018
" WetBrush has created the ultimate salon backbar pairing with the Pro Backbar Detangler and the Pro Paddle Detangler designed specifically for hair professionals to create pain-free salon detangling for the back bar. Available in Black, Pink, Purple and Teal, the WetBrush Pro Backbar Detangler, delivers over 45% less damage and 55% less effort. These brushes also boast an ergonomically advanced design with elevated profile to be more rigid and a non-slip EasyGrip™ handle for more control, even when the hands are wet. www.rdr./linkHP022
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BRUSHES
SMOOTH OPERATORS
Kent Salon superfans BROOKE EVANS and MICHAEL DOUGLAS tell us how they tame unruly tresses and which key Kent Salon brushes should be part of your kit.
“If you want to keep your clients’ hair looking healthy then you must know the importance of detangling! All hair types get tangled and knotty but knowing how to tease them out correctly is most important. I always suggest using a brush with flexible bristles as this encourages the knots to ease out without pulling the hair and damaging the hair shaft. The Kent Salon KS07 is great for this, it can be used on all hair types, on both wet and dry hair and the pointed handle allows you to section the hair easier so you are able work on smaller sections at a time. I always detangle with my Kent Salon brush before I use a comb, it allows the hair to be smooth and prepped before we cut or blow-dry. The KS02 is perfect to use whilst blow-drying. The curve of the brush follows the natural shape of the head, this alongside the vents and the mixture of nylon and boar bristle is the ultimate combination to detangle and smooth the hair, giving you a tangle free, bouncy blow dry.” Brooke Evans
“Knotty and tangled har is the bane of some clients’ lives but there are a few things that can help! First, brush hair through before shampooing or getting wet. One of my faves for this is the Kent Salon Paddle Brush KS01. The mixture of short boar and long nylon bristles mean that the tension on the hair is proportionate. If the knot in the hair is too tight, the bristles will give way so as not to snap or break the hair. With more brushing, this mix of bristles helps to detangle those tight knots. Obviously, always start at the ends of the hair and make your way to the roots. This brush also has a pin tail end so you can easily section to make the process easier. Brushing hair through before shampooing can save you on the post-shampooing detangling phase. Shampoo and condition as usual but before rinsing the conditioner, I would brush through the hair again. This time, I tend to use the Kent Salon KS04 which is usually a backcombing brush, but I love it because it’s small, therefore easy to use at the backwash – and one again the boar bristle doesn’t put too much tension on the hair. When I’m blow-drying, I love using the Kent Salon KS17 to help keep hair tangle-free. It’s a brilliant blow-drying brush for body and volume with a bend and once again, the mixture of long and short bristles helps enormously to keep the hair detangled and knot free.” Michael Douglas
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WHAT’S NEW THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
JOICO Zero Heat air-dry styling crème is a no-heat, no-hassle styler for air dried styles that still look polished. With two personalised formulas for fine/medium and thick hair that define and enhance hair’s natural texture, this is a time saver for all. The crèmes minimise frizz, reduce natural drying time and provide 24-hour humidity control with no sticky residue. www.rdr./linkHP023
KEVIN.MURPHY has launched four new shades that offer everything hairdressers love about COLOR.ME INTENSE.NATURALS but with new products specifically for dark to medium brunettes through to the lightest of blondes. Offering superior grey coverage these shades provide that ‘born-with-it’ colour that is natural and healthy with brilliant shine. www.rdr./linkHP024
Great Lengths has added three new products to its aftercare collection. Joining the line up is Heat & Care Spray which provides a protective film on the hair, preventing heat damage up to 300°C, Leave-In Conditioner for use after shampoo to add moisture to hair, and Silver Shine Shampoo for banishing brassy and yellow tones from blonde and grey hair. www.rdr./linkHP025
Redken Extreme Lengths is a new biotin infused haircare system for clients seeking length and strength. The formula contains Biotin and castor oil to fortify and strengthen hair for 81% less breakage. The perfect recommendation for clients who struggle to grow their hair as it is fragile and damaged, the Extreme Lengths collection includes a shampoo, conditioner and split end corrector. www.rdr./linkHP026
Andis has added a bold new Andis Nation colour way to its popular Slimline Pro Li Trimmer. The Slimline Pro Li trimmer is famed for creating precision lines, ultra-fine definition and finishing perfection in every cut. It delivers two hour run time on a single charge with total control and features a precision T blade, lithium-ion power, a lightweight design and a high-speed rotary motor for speed and power. www.rdr./linkHP027
JOICO Moisture Recovery has a new look and new technology designed to provide 24-hour hydration. Infused with nourishing Jojoba Oil, it delivers the deep replenishment thick/coarse hair requires to look and feel beautifully quenched all day. After a single treatment, softness and shine return, breakage is reduced, and hair is replenished and healthy-looking all day. www.rdr./linkHP028
ghd has introduced the upbeat collection. Inspired by the feel-good power of music and dance, the collection features stunning new colours on ghd’s award-winning tools. The platinum+ styler is now available in beautiful cobalt blue, while the new helios hairdryer has had a neo-mint makeover. The gold styler also now comes in moon silver and neo-mint. www.rdr./linkHP029
Ever.Smooth by KEVIN.MURPHY is a lightweight heat-activated style extender that will provide a silky blow-dry like no other. Ideal for a frizz free finish, Ever.Smooth contains Long Chain Polymers to lock in condition, volume and style and Wood Bark Complex to gently protect the hair and create resilience. Simply spray liberally through towel dried hair and blow-dry each section with a brush. www.rdr./linkHP030
New from Keratin Complex is Infusion Keratin Replenisher, a powerful blow-dry cream that dramatically cuts down blow-dry time while fighting frizz and replenishing moisture and shine. The formula contains hydrolysed wheat protein to strengthen the hair and provide heat-styling protection and rosemary leaf extract to condition and calm unruly strands. www.rdr./linkHP031
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Schwarzkopf Professional has expanded the IGORA portfolio with a new dual application shade palette: IGORA Muted Desert. The shades, available in both IGORA Royal (permanent) and IGORA Vibrance (demi-permanent), perfectly complement the natural features of cool toned and neutral clients as the powdery cool beige and soft ashy nuances perfectly match their natural undertone. www.rdr./linkHP032
Sensus Direct Fard is a range of nourishing hair colour treatments that give you the freedom to create vibrant tones or maintain permanent colours. Explore your artistic side with colour enhancing mixable shades that allow you to create a new image for your clients every day. Fard has a cream texture for easy application, restructuring action with ARC Complex and new generation pigments that last up to 20 washes. www.rdr./linkHP033
For bigger, bouncier beautiful hair, the Philip Kinglsey Body Building range has four lightweight layerable products designed to give heavyweight volume to fine, limp hair. The full range includes Philip Kingsley’s best-selling Body Building Weightless Shampoo, Body Building Weightless Conditioner, and has been expanded to include the brand’s volumising styling products; Maximizer Root Boosting Spray and Maximizer Strand Plumping Cream. www.rdr./linkHP034
Giveaway The Alfa Italia Seta Pro Styler uses ceramic heat technology to style the hair at the optimum styling temperature, for beautifully silky, smooth results. Alongside the rounded barrel, floating ceramic plates enable the Seta to glide effortlessly through hair without tugging or pulling, enabling you to create super-sleek looks, or silky smooth curls. It also features auto shut off and universal voltage.
The Alfa Italia Forza delivers the ultimate combination of high-powered heat and airflow, cutting drying time by up to 70%. The tourmaline-infused ceramic components are housed inside the sleek, soft touch body, and emit far-infrared heat that instantly penetrates the cortex of the hair’s cuticle, heating from the inside out. With a 2300w AC motor and ultra lightweight design the Forza gives powerful results in super quick time.
We’ve got an Alfa Italia Forza and an Alfa Italia Seta to give away to one lucky winner! Simply head to our website to enter! www.rdr./linkHP035
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IN THE THIRD OF HIS SERIES LOOKING AT HOW TO EFFECTIVELY MANAGE A SALON GROUP, ALAN SIMPSON, AWARD-WINNING OWNER OF CONTEMPORARY SALONS, LOOKS AT CREATING A GROUP MARKETING PLAN.
Making marketing a group effort A marketing plan is an essential resource for any salon, and even more pertinent for a group, in order to ensure consistent brand messages across all salons. The first step to creating a marketing plan is to know your objectives. Do you want to get more clients through the door, encourage the uptake of colour service or increase retail sales? The plan will ensure all your salons have the same marketing material, featuring consistent branding, so every salon’s marketing and point of sale will be the same. This way, clients feel they are visiting the same business no matter which salon they visit - your brand message will be consistent. The Contemporary way At Contemporary Salons, we use a 12-month marketing planner across all salons, so we have a consistent message across all nine outlets. Advance planning is essential, so you can organise posters, point-of-sale material, templates for adverts, and so on. We break our planner down by each major area of the business and focus on each quarter, creating the marketing materials in advance so that they are in place for every promotion. It takes time to pull it all together, but once you have the plan it will help give you a clear focus and make any campaign far easier to implement. You will need a marketing plan that employs a multi-point approach which allows your business to use different methods to achieve your objectives. We have the group marketing plan which all salons follow which is shared at the beginning of the year to all salons. Our marketing periods run from January to March, April to June, July to September and October to December. Marketing is delivered from a number of platforms using various resources. In-salon Don’t neglect the salon itself when it comes to displaying your marketing material. It’s a great way to reinforce your brand values and keep clients and those passing the salon updated on promotions, including those designed to encourage uptake of services, such as colour. Visual in-salon marketing can include posters and mirror clings, all featuring imagery that reflects your brand. But in-salon marketing doesn’t end here, you should also consider newsletters, reward cards, and introduce-a-friend offers. Digital Websites are very easily neglected, so make sure they are incorporated into any marketing planner. Do you need to schedule information about promotions to appear on your home page, for example, and does imagery need updating to reflect the current marketing visuals?
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Text messages are now an established and an effective way of informing clients of promotions and can be a great way to encourage lapsed clients back into the salon. Your salon software should enable you to target these in line with any campaign. Salon feedback Contemporary Salons gives out cards to every new client and all clients will also get a text asking them to leave a short survey on their visit to the salon. This is a great way to measure client satisfaction and deal with any issues in a timely way, helping create a loyal client base. It’s particularly useful to turn someone who has visited the salon for the first time to take advantage of a promotional offer into a loyal client. Computer system customer relationship management With a group of salons it is vital that all the salons use a computer software program to manage the business, so as a group you can share results on how each salon is performing. Social media Social media is another often underused marketing platform. We have separate 12-month planners that we use for the salons, the academy and the Art Team. We share the social media calendar for the month ahead with all salons so they can share on their social media pages too. All salons look after their own social media, so they can share their own salon’s content to make the social media personal to each salon, but also include the company’s posts to keep a consistent approach. It’s really important that all salons understand the brand and how adverts and photos should be shared on social media so it reflects your company branding. Our salons focus on the quality of followers, rather than the quantity, with an emphasis on gaining followers in their local area. If the main aim of your social media is to gain new clients, you won’t achieve this if only 10% of your followers live locally, no matter how many followers you have. We aim for at least 90% of followers to live within 30 miles of the salon. Keeping up with new changes with Facebook and Instagram is time consuming but essential and it’s worth checking out some of the other up-and-coming social media platforms, including Snapchat and TikTok. I would say, though, that it’s better to do a good job on two platforms than try and cover every social media platform out there and let standards slip. So, you can now understand why it’s so important for your salon group to have consistency when it comes to marketing, to avoid client confusion and brand dilution. A plan is also a great way to target traditionally quieter times for your business, ensuring your salons are busy all-year-round – which as business owners, is ultimately what we want.
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BUSINESS
IN THE LATEST IN HIS SERIES EXPLORING THE ROAD TO SUCCESS, AWARD WINNING SALON OWNER AND GLOBALLY RENOWNED HAIRDRESSER, ROBERT MASCIAVE, TALKS ABOUT THE NEED TO...
Be smart and creative with your learning I have talked previously about the need to be clever when it comes to learning, and that the first step to learning effectively is to know yourself and how you best take in information. One school of thought that I am a great believer in is that of Visual, Auditory and Kinesthetic learning (VAK). Basically, it’s the belief that we all absorb information differently and usually find it easier to take in information through one dominant sense – either through vision, sound or kinesthetically, which means through carrying out activities in order to learn. Once you have established the way you learn most effectively, you can try and tailor your learning around this, finding ways to stimulate your creativity for example, that best suit you. Most hairdressers prefer visual means of learning, I am definitely someone who prefers a visual means of absorbing information and will usually find inspiration in things that I see. I’ve also talked before about the importance of finding the right mentor, and it’s worth reiterating here how vital a great mentor is to your development as a hairdresser and a person. All I knew when I was a young hairdresser was that I wanted to do show and stage work, so I picked a mentor whose work I most admired, Guy Kremer. I had a strong sense of what I liked and what I didn’t like, and Guy’s work had huge visual appeal for me and, because of the way I take in information, I needed a mentor whose work I found visually inspiring. When you are young all you can do when you imagine your future is look at someone who has achieved what you would like to achieve. This is actually a good way to find a mentor. But don’t be inhibited when it comes to picturing your future. Imagining where you want to be in the future is also a great way to start firming a plan of how you want your career to develop, and this is where creativity comes into play. When thinking about your future be as creative as you want. No-one can judge what is in your head. Let your imagination run free and just ask yourself, in an ideal world, without restrictions, what would I be? This free, creative way of thinking allows us to make plans, however loose those plans may originally be. Once you have embarked on your journey of learning, it is important to create challenges for yourself. First learn a new skill, then practice that new skill until you feel confident in your abilities, then challenge that skill until you have mastered it. It’s only by challenging
yourself that you will begin to unlock your creativity. While skill obviously comes into play when mastering your craft, it’s also important to let emotion influence you. If you feel emotion towards what you are doing or the inspiration behind what you are doing, it will provide the drive you need to excel in your craft. An example of how I have challenged myself and used emotion as a driving force, is my avant-garde work. When I started doing avant-garde work I was moving out of my comfort zone. When you create avant-garde hair you are not working with looks that are tried and tested, you are not just recreating what has been done before, with the confidence that if you get it right people will respond positively. With avant-garde looks, you are challenging yourself to create something that’s never been done before and this can mean developing new techniques in order to bring your vision to reality. This is an obvious example of how to challenge yourself, but a challenge can be anything that takes you away from what you feel comfortable with. For me, real learning is all about problem solving. Emotion also plays a massive part in my avant-garde work, and in all elements of my hairdressing. Much of my work has been inspired by my seeing something that triggered an emotion. It’s not about looking at something and thinking I want to do that, it’s about feeling something. One of my avant-garde creations was inspired by a tree I saw while I was exploring Kew Gardens. I was drawn to this one particular tree and it’s natural beauty. I took a picture of it and moved on. A few weeks later I was asked to do a show based around the concept of an enchanted forest. I didn’t even think about the tree I’d seen, but once I saw the finished look, I realised I had recreated that tree. Because I had reacted to it with emotion, it had stayed in my head and influenced my work. The emotion I felt provided the driving force behind my hair creation. One thing I want to stress is that copying is not creative. You will never really learn and progress by copying. A lot of people will copy what has been done before because they know it will receive a positive reaction. As an exercise to practice skills, copying is fine, but it’s a waste of time to share and call something you have copied your own creation. Always try and be original, embrace a sense of risk and have the courage to challenge yourself continuously.
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BUSINESS
AS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, MICHAEL SMITH HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON HOW THE CURRENT GLOBAL HEALTH CRISIS IS HITTING THE HAIR INDUSTRY HARD.
Lessons Learnt Just last issue, I talked in this very same column about how in every business there are always threats, and it’s essential to be on the lookout for them. To quote directly, I said, “From small changes within your salon to huge shifts in society and the way we live, being ahead of the game is the key to protecting your livelihood.” Well, while I can’t claim I had even an inkling about the catastrophic pandemic that was just around the corner, I suppose it goes to show that you can never quite predict what the future holds. No sooner had the last issue of this magazine hit our salons than the worst crisis we’ve seen in our lifetimes was just about to erupt. It’s relatively early days in terms of working out what this will really mean for all our long-term futures. At the time of writing (mid-March) the situation is changing daily, if not by the hour. So far, the government has announced fiscal measures to support small businesses through these challenging times. But actually no one knows what the business survival rates will look like on the other side. Or even when a brighter picture might start to emerge. Of course, our primary concern is for the health and wellbeing of our customers and our staff. The very first response was in line with government guidelines. While remaining open we put measures in place to ensure that optimum levels of hygiene were enforced. Our card machines were disinfected after each use and receipts became optional. All door handles and surfaces were disinfected regularly and staff continued to wash their hands after every appointment and throughout the day. As I’m sure you’ll agree, high standards of health and hygiene are always behaviours that get observed in our salons. Now they took on a new significance. We also kindly asked customers who felt unwell ahead of their appointment to call us to rearrange. In line with this step we flexed our cancellations policy to reflect the fact that some may not want to venture outside their homes. As we publicised our intentions, one customer
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responded thus, “Thank goodness! Have to keep the spirits up. My aunt - always chic - used to say that even when she was on her absolute uppers she’d keep her nails painted and have her hair done. Ok, hair can be a mad expense if you don’t know where the next pound is coming from. However, the point is try and take a few moments to make the best of yourself in the best way you can. Even just clean hair helps! Add a bit of lippy and off you go. Having just had the most successful haircut and colour in all my 63 years I will be sobbing on the doorstep of the salon if I can’t have my hair attended to.” In fact, self-care becomes an even bigger priority for some people when all else around them is uncertain. None of us can deny how significant the mental health as well as physical health impact is set to be. At the moment our salon doors stay open, but naturally we understand that may change. In Italy as their nationwide lockdown entered its second week, hair salons were not open for business. All lockdowns will look different depending on the country and severity of the COVID-19 outbreak, but under Italy’s stringent measures, hair salons, sports shops, gyms and spas were the first things to shut up shop. Now a hairstylist risks fines and even jail time going to someone’s house to sneak in a root touch-up. In contrast, for Spain while most commercial establishments other than food stores or pharmacies were obliged to close, those still in work were permitted to walk to their place of work as well as to the hairdressers, amongst other services. Who knows what the UK’s stance will be? Perhaps by now we’ll all know! The psychological impact of isolation for our older clients in particular is especially devastating. We hope we can continue to offer an oasis of calm when most needed. And I hope – above all – that we will all get through this unprecedented and difficult time and come out stronger and with a renewed sense of values on the other side.
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S U S T A i N A B L E
GREEN QUEEN
KARINE Our resident environmental campaigner KARINE JACKSON appeared on stage at Pro Hair Live recently, championing her mission to go single use plastic-free and giving tips and advice on sustainability. Karine conducted plastic assessments on the Organic Colour Systems stand for visiting salon owners to help them to reduce their own single use plastic consumption.
I can’t believe Pro Hair Live has been and gone already, and what a great weekend it was. I made some brilliant contacts, set up some new deals and took on a new tea company, which is very exciting! I commend Pro Hair Live for their sustainable area and like anything new this can only grow. The exhibition gives Art Teams a platform to show off their work and I was so pleased with the response from hairdressers asking me how they can work more sustainably and even better, talking to salon owners about what changes they are already making. Sustainability is really building momentum and it’s exciting. In the words of Annemarie Bonneau “We don’t need a handful of humans doing zero waste perfectly, we need millions of humans doing it imperfectly.” It was charming to see my friends hiding their plastic water bottles. They might not yet have stopped using plastic bottles, but I could see that they were aware of what they’re doing and I know eventually they will stop. I presented on the Business/Sustainability stage both days and have loved the ongoing response I’ve received from people who were at the event, and even those who have just heard about it. Thank you to all the brands that came to listen to what improvements they can make. The Plastic Assessments on the Organic Colour Systems stand were a huge success. This is where we show you how to use our assessment structure to note how plastic is entering the salon, much like a fire risk assessment. When I highlighted to guests what was in their salons and what simple steps they could make to use less, they were excited to go back and implement these small changes. Every day I feel a step closer to making a dent in our part of climate change. I had a great chat on their stand with the team from Kingdom Coffee who pride themselves in producing ethical coffee and tea solutions that are environmentally friendly and energy-efficient. Introducing this into the salon will be another small change we are going to implement. We already use Clipper Tea, the only teabag without micro plastic inside. I don’t think people give teabags a second thought but we use MILLIONS of them, and they have a
big impact on the environment. If you’ve ever put teabags in your compost and then found that they haven’t degraded, this is why! We also presented perming live on the stand using Curlformers® by HairFlair. Perming is huge business for us, we’re doing four a day and clients are seeking us out for them, but we need to use plastic caps to seal them. Ann Butterly from Easy dry listened to my issues with this and has sent me through some compostable solutions, which I can’t wait to utilise. We rocked our sustainable show on the Main Stage sponsored by HairFlair Pro using Curlformers®. My Art Team Manager Sophia planned a show based on sustainability, creating shapes using Curlformers® from items of waste we collected and studied. We used old pieces of fabric to pull the hair through, giving an exploded bubble wrap look and we made a shaping tool out of a coat hanger and some (clean!) old tights. These were all from recycled materials found in our old art team drawers. I have to say, I was impressed with my sustainable kit that I packed for the weekend, it enjoyed full use; cutlery set, reusable coffee cup, crochet makeup remover pad, body wash, reusable water bottle and a bamboo toothbrush. I strive to ensure my kit doesn’t put a strain on any one resource. I was proud of how handy the kit was and more than once I was able to share cutlery therefore reducing single use utensils. The one saying I think we all need to put at the forefront of our thinking is use less, waste less. #uselesswasteless The new budget has been announced and I noted that plastic packaging tax will come into force from April 2022, while manufacturers and importers whose products have less than 30% recyclable material will be charged £200 per tonne. All a step in the right direction but still a long time to wait! I would love to hear from everyone that I had the pleasure of meeting at Pro Hair Live about the small changes they’re making. For the people I didn’t get to meet or couldn’t make the weekend, please share with me on Instagram as I’m always looking to learn new ways in which I can also improve!
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Welcome to the Boy’s Zone where each month we will be inviting a men’s hairdresser or barber to share what’s on their industry radar – from fashion to fragrance to favourite product in their kit bag – an insight into what makes them tick. We start off with JIM SHAW, owner of TONI&GUY Billericay, BHA Men’s Hairdresser of the Year and International Hairdressing Awards Best Men’s Commercial Collection Winner.
MEN IN BACK Fashion Item... I love my designer items and when I have events to attend I always love to treat myself to a new suit – it’s such a guilty pleasure. My brand of choice at the moment is Tom Ford. I think his items are so classic and always look incredibly sophisticated. I recently purchased a Tom Ford suit for an awards ceremony and paired it with my Tom Ford belt, the perfect accessory. Suits are such an investment and although they may cost more than your normal jeans and t-shirt, they will last and are a staple item to have in your wardrobe – especially as it’s coming up for award season!
New fragrance My current favourite fragrance is definitely Creed Aventus. This scent is so popular at the moment and it’s because it’s such a great quality scent that truly lasts. For me, this scent is so luxurious, bold and confident, and I particularly love to wear it to any special event or awards ceremony I am attending, as it always gets complimented. I think fragrances work so differently on different people and smell so differently on each persons skin, but this one for me always smells amazing on everyone – it’s definitely a must have.
GROOMING/BARBERING HERO... There are so many people that I follow and admire their work in the industry but I love Jody Taylor’s work for men’s hairdressing. He always created great men’s looks without looking barbered. I also really admire Simon Shaw for his barbering skills.
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Best new grooming item of the month I love using new products and I am always trying new styling products and grooming tools. If I had to pin down my favourite grooming item it would definitely be my Wahl Cordless Clippers. My style is all about precision, and these definitely allow me to achieve that. In regards to styling products, one of my favourites at the minute is the American Crew Boost Powder. This gives such great height and hold and I love to use it when I’m creating quiffs in particular or when I want to add some lift and thickness to the hair. This product also has a matte finish, which I always prefer to a shiny appearance, as it looks more natural but still groomed. www.rdr./linkHP036
Image of the month In February, I won the International Hairdressing
Awards Best Men’s Commercial Collection Category, which was absolutely incredible. This month I just received my winning images in frames to display in the salon and they look so
fantastic. It’s so nice to have them up
displayed beside my winner’s logo.
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ADVERTORIAL
CONSUMER LAW DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES ARE WHEN PROVIDING PRODUCTS AND SERVICES TO YOUR CLIENTS?
range of F offers a The NHB rvices for se support business ns, from eauty salo al hair and b nd financi a t n ployme legal, em d nte to discou ce for guidance xpert advi e d n a ce sting o o insuran b d people an g in g a n a m ness. your busi f.co.uk b h .n w w w
YOUR CLIENTS WILL BE PROTECTED BY CONSUMER LAW WHEN IT C O M E S T O T H E S E R V I C E S A N D P R O D U C T S Y O U P R O V I D E , S AY S N H B F D I R E C T O R T I N A B E A U M O N T- G O D D A R D . “ I T ’ S I M P O RTA N T T O H AV E A W O R K I N G K N O W L E D G E O F W H AT R I G H T S T H E Y H AV E A N D W H AT Y O U R R E S P O N S I B I L I T I E S A R E . ” PRICING AND PAYMENT RULES “You must clearly display the prices you charge for services and treatments together with a description of exactly what is included in the price,” says Tina. “Your price list and payment methods must be displayed in your salon and on your website.” NHBF Members can download a free in-depth guide to consumer law which includes details about the law in relation to online sales: nhbf.co.uk/consumer-law COMPLAINTS AND THE LAW The Consumer Rights Act 2015 says that if a service is not provided with reasonable care and skill or as agreed, you must put things right within a reasonable time and at your own cost. “And if that’s not practical, you should provide a full or partial refund within 14 days of agreeing to a refund,” says Tina. If you cannot sort out the complaint between you, you must tell your client how to find a certified alternative dispute resolution (ADR) service. NHBF Members can use the NHBF Hair & Beauty Mediation service: nhbf.co.uk/ADR
For less than 80p a day, the NHBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without it! Find out more: nhbf.co.uk Join the NHBF before the end of April 2020 and quote PHA25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
SELLING PRODUCTS AND EQUIPMENT “If you sell hair and beauty products or electrical items such as hairdryers, they must meet all legal requirements and be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described,” says Tina. You will have to give a full refund if faulty goods are returned within 30 days. After 30 days, you can choose to provide a full
refund or repair/replace the goods instead. “If a fault develops within six months the item is presumed to have been faulty when it was bought from you and you would have to prove otherwise. After six months, your client must prove the item was faulty when they bought it.” CANCELLATIONS AND NO-SHOWS “Make sure you have a no-show and late cancellation policy that clearly explains the financial penalties your clients may have to pay if they don’t show up for their appointment or cancel at the last minute,” says Tina. “But you must ensure that any financial penalties are fair on your clients.” Find out more about dealing with late cancellations and no-shows: nhbf.co.uk/no-shows FINANCE ARRANGEMENTS “If you arrange a finance agreement with your client, for example, to pay for a course of treatment over time, you must provide a written contract that includes specific information, including details of the treatment, the full cost, payment terms and any cancellation fees or ‘cooling off’ period,” says Tina. The NHBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhbf.co.uk
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