JULY/AUGUST 2019
pur el y h air, p ure ly f or p rof e ssiona ls
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MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23TH-24TH FEBRUARY 2019
J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 9
ISSUE 07
Back to the roots
What is brand building? Probably the simplest way to define it is that it is a process of creating value to consumers – your clients. This should encompass all things that your clients know, feel and experience about your business as a whole. In the Business section this issue we have two very interesting takes on branding that will help you consider your own communication. Both successful salon owners in our industry, firstly Phil Smith interviews Freddie Garland of Freddie’s Flowers – a young business that has quite literally flourished over the past year or so with its branding; and then Michael Smith of Tristan Eves on steps to creating your own successful brand. On a more sensitive note, we all know how emotional conditions of the hair and scalp can be with you, the hairdresser, on the frontline when it comes to the issue of dealing with hair loss. It is important to be knowledgeable and informed to a certain level in the salon so turn to our Trichology Special starting on page 48 to discover tips from the experts and the latest products out there to help with this sensitive subject.
JULY/AUGUST 2019
COVER: Joey Scandizzo, ELEVEN Australia PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole
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REGULARS 4 6
NEWS Industry going’s on NEWS EXTRA Goldwell
Editor
Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Ruth Williams Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd
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ELECTRICALS
28 BREAST CANCER CAMPAIGN With ghd
57 STEP BY STEP With ghd
FASHION
Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk
SPECIAL
32 ON TREND
HOOKER & YOUNG With Ken Picton
17 MY COLOURFUL LIFE With Larisa Love 18 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With TIGI 20 TREND SPOTTING With BaByliss PRO
60 SPOTLIGHT ON Diva Pro 61 PRODUCT ROUND-UP Clippers
COLLECTIONS
PRODUCTS TRICHOLOGY
64 What’s New
48 ADVICE FROM... Trisha Buller 49 SPOTLIGHT ON Goldwell 50 TRICHOLOGY TALK Advice & Products
66 SPOTLIGHT ON Eleven
22 GIFTED & TALENTED With Gianluca Caruso 23 ZOE IRWIN Colour trendtalking
68 SPOTLIGHT ON Maverick
BUSINESS 70 Michael Smith 71 Phil Smith 72 Julie Eldrett 73 Training
Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2019 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
NHF/NBF BUSINESS AWARDS NOW OPEN Don’t miss this chance to compete with the best in the business nationwide by entering the NHF/NBF’s Business Awards 2019.
PORSCHES FOR POUNDS TOMMY’S HAIR COMPANY RAISES OVER £3,000 FOR A CHILDREN’S HOSPICE AT ANNUAL LUXURY CAR EVENT. With salons situated in Chester, Llandudno and Ruthin, the team this year took part in the annual Porsche on the Prom, a gathering of over 500 Porsche owners from all over the country, who come together to display their luxury cars whilst raising vital funds for local charity Hope House, a childrens hospice that offers support and guidance to families from Shropshire, Cheshire, north and Mid Wales. Founder of the salon group Tommy Van Der Veken, showcased his beautiful branded Porsche and the Tommy’s Team had created brand t-shirts, to raise key funds for the cause. Walking the promenade selling the garments,
the team sold out in only a few hours and whilst also holding a luxury raffle, organised by Porsche Club RegionR6, with prizes including hair hampers and vouchers. Through these exceptional efforts the total raised from Tommy’s was an extraordinary £3,118.11. Tommy commented “Supporting local charities such as Hope House is something we enjoy and that we encourage. We recognise the incredible work they do and have great respect for all who are involved. This year’s Porsche on the Prom was a resounding success and we can’t wait for next year.”
The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has elected Ashleigh Hodges as its new Chancellor.
Niamh Morris from Jason Liddiard in Kent has been announced as the winner of the Fellowship’s Sassoon Scholarship.
4 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Julie Winchester has been appointment as General Manager of KAO Salon Division UK, Ireland and South Africa.
Now established as a key event in the industry calendar, the Business Awards are a great way to showcase your salon or barbershop, motivate and inspire your staff and attract new clients. The closing date of 26 July 2019 is fast approaching, so find out more and enter now: nhf.info/businessawards. Categories for 2019 These prestigious awards are open to both NHF/NBF Members and non-members and there are a total of 12 competition categories to choose between. They include four exciting new categories for 2019: Best Independent Beauty Best Social Media Best Salon Design Outstanding Contribution to the Hair or Beauty Industry You can also enter: Best Independent Hair Salon or Barbershop (two categories – large and small) Best Innovation Best Client Experience Best Apprentice Best New Business Best Community Support Best Front of House The finalists will be announced on 15 August 2019 ahead of a glittering awards evening held at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London in November. The NHF/NBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info
NEWS EXTRA
#LCT19 Sinéad Kelly is crowned this year’s winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy. Dressed to the nines, 1,200 hairdressers and industry figures flocked to Battersea Evolution for a night of glitz and glamour at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. Taking their seats for an enthralling event, guests watched the stage come alive with lights, effects and music for the stunning ‘Kaleidoscopic Colour’ hair shows by Tim Hartley, Saks and Trevor Sorbie. Sinéad Kelly, London seized the 2019 L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award – the industry’s longest running and revered hair award. Linton & Mac, Aberdeen were awarded second place and The Colour Room, Stockport scooped third place. The Men’s Image Award was won by Trevor Sorbie, London and the runner up in this award was Mr Face, Brighton. Presented by Charlotte Mensah, the Afro Look Award went to Errol Douglas Salon, London. The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Awards were presented to all eight regions by Adam Reed from Percy & Reed and Siobhan Jones from Rose and Wild who both explained just how difficult the judging process had been due to the high standard of hair work produced by all the competitors. The Regional Award winners for 2019 are: Northern Ireland – Peter Mark, Forestside, Belfast Scotland – Linton & Mac, Aberdeen North East – Satchi Salons, Sunderland North West – The Colour Room, Stockport Western – Nashwhite, Warwick Eastern – FX Hair Studio, Leigh on Sea Southern – Headmasters, Brighton London – Sinéad Kelly, London The L’Oréal Professional STAR Award judges’ favourite was announced on stage by Angel Montague Sayers from Sally Montague. These aspiring colourists, all winners in their region, were competing to win a place on an exclusive winner’s photoshoot in Paris next month. And the winner was Christopher Main from Andrew Mulvenna Hair, Belfast. The 2019 winners will now embark on a year filled with amazing projects including a creative photo-shoot with an online or digital title and a host of invaluable support and opportunities along the way. With the shows over and the awards presented, the guests celebrated and danced the night away at the after-show party until the early hours of the morning. Congratulations to Sinéad Kelly and all the other winners on the night!
NEWS EXTRA
HUB MED SALON OWNERS GET DOWN TO SERIOUS BUSINESS IN SICILY. Set amongst the beautiful orange and olive groves and The first day finished in true Sicilian style with traditional cradled by a glistening Mediterranean coastline, the Verdura music and food which guests enjoyed whilst networking and Resort in sun-soaked Sicily was an idyllic and impressive talking about the day. setting for the Goldwell/KMS Hub Network 2019, hosted Day Two kicked off with an informative session from Hilary especially for Kao Salon Division’s exclusive salon business Hall, Chief Executive of the National Hairdressers Federation, networking club members. Now in its third year, this hugely highlighting important industry trending topics and offering popular event brought together 170 guests who want to add advice on how to safeguard your business. value to their business and build their brand. They come to Next up the charismatic Claudia Merkle, an Art Historian listen, learn and network and this year’s conference most and lecturer at the TATE and V&A was back by popular certainly delivered on that! demand. Claudia’s passionate and lively The theme for 2019 was ‘How to Win’ – creative session was both on the high street, with your salon team, thought-provoking and uniquely inspiring! “We received some versus your competition and in your business English explorer Ed Stafford holds the incredible insights and goals and personal development and the inspiration from our amazing Guinness World Record for being the first stellar line-up of presenters approached this human to ever walk the length of the speakers. We hope our key with all their relevant expertise and passion. Amazon River. His story had powerful customers enjoyed a Day One got underway with a welcome lessons about motivation, resilience, respect fantastic few days learning from new General Manager, Kao Salon and positivity. ‘How to Win’ and all take Division UK, Ireland & South Africa, Julie After lunch it was the turn of professional home some practical ideas Winchester. business coach David Drew, whose to help support their Senior Consultant Trichologist, Trisha hard-hitting presentation ‘Winning in business ambitions.” Buller opened proceedings with a Business in Challenging Times’ most Julie Winchester, General Manager commercial look at how to win by creating a definitely planted seeds of change in the Kao Salon Division UK, sustainable team culture that creates hairdressing minds around the room. Ireland and South Africa. consistency and motivates the team to The conference closed with an adopt new salon services and treatments. award-winning panel of successful salon Next up was Steven Bartlett, the incredible 26 year old owners: Beverly C MBE, Martin Crean, Sam Burnett and Shane CEO of and co-founder of Social Chain. He truly inspired the Bennett, discussing hot industry topics. room with his business journey and invaluable advice he With everyone feeling inspired and motivated, it was time shared around Social Media. to enjoy the Sicilian hospitality of the Goldwell/KMS hosts. Simon Clarkson’s workshop was a fascinating insight into Wine tasting in the Amphitheatre followed by a Gala Dinner the role of psychology when changing mindset and and After Party closed what was a fantastic and insightful developing high-performance, winning teams. couple of days.
6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Steven Bartlett
Julie Winchester
Trisha Buller
Simon Clarkson
Claudia Merkle
Hilary Hall
Ed Stafford
David Drew
Industry Panel
ADVERTORIAL
IS YOUR SALON INSURANCE SORTED? You must have the right insurance cover to stay legal, protect your clients and staff, and safeguard your business finances, says the NHF/NBF. What the law says “If you employ at least one person, the law says you must have employers’ liability (EL) insurance,” explains NHF/NBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “You can be fined up to £2,500 for each day you don’t have it, and £1,000 if you do not display your EL certificate.” As well as complying with the law, EL insurance is vital as it should cover your legal and compensation bills if one of your salon employees is injured or becomes ill because of the work they do for you. Peace-of-mind cover “Public liability insurance is not a legal requirement,” says Tina, “but we strongly advise having this insurance as it will protect your business if a client or member of the public is injured or has their property damaged because of your business activities. Compensation claims can run into many thousands of pounds, so public liability insurance will help to ensure your peace of mind and financial security.” What about client disclaimers? Never agree to your client signing a disclaimer saying they won’t make a claim if something goes wrong. “Disclaimers would not stand up in court and you would still be liable – even if the disclaimer was at your client’s request,” warns Tina. Be one step ahead “The last thing you want is for an employee or client to be injured or harmed in any way and you will also want to avoid claims for compensation,” says Tina. “Our health & safety toolkit contains everything you need to help keep your clients and staff safe and to ensure your salon is covered under health & safety law.” Find out more: nhf.info/H&Skit
10 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Tailored salon insurance – plus discounts It’s best to get expert advice to ensure you’re fully covered. “We work in partnership with Coversure Insurance Services to provide value-for-money specialist insurance cover for salons,” says Tina. Coversure offers: ● 90% discount for NHF/NBF Members. ● Price match guarantee. ● Unit-by-unit cover for learners progressing through a hairdressing or barbering apprenticeship at level 2 and beauty up to and including level 3. ● Instant quotations with immediate cover. ● Instalment plans. ● Flexible patch testing requirements. Find out more: www.nhf.info/insurance Colour confidence Make sure you’re following industry best practice and protect your clients against potentially harmful allergic reactions by using the NHF/NBF’s free colour record cards and allergy alert consultation guide. Coversure approves the NHF/NBF colour record cards system, so you can be confident you’re covered. Find out more: nhf.info/allergy-alert-system
The NHF/NBF For less than 75p a day, the NHF/NBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us! Find out more: www.nhf.info Join the NHF/NBF before the end of August 2019 and quote PHA25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
HO O KER A ND YO U NG
PEOPLE
Ken Picton It’s a sunny morning in London and we’re off to meet the President of The Fellowship for British Hairdressing! Although Donald Trump was actually in town we opted for our very own President Picton. With lots to talk about and very little time to fit into his incredibly busy schedule we got straight down to business to find out what all there this is to know about the very lovely Mr Ken Picton. All stand… Mr President has arrived. Michael: So where did it all start for you? Ken: Me and my older brother were raised by my single mum and when I was growing up I never really had a good haircut Then, when I was about 15 I remember begging my mum to take me to the local hair salon so I could get a proper haircut. It was the days of Miami Vice, so I remember the stylist looked a bit like Don Johnson with his sleeves rolled up and he was just holding court. It really intrigued me and was probably the first time that I really thought about becoming a hairdresser. I then took the classic route into the industry by going to college and from my very first day there I completely fell in love with it and knew that it was what I wanted to do. I got a job at a salon in Cardiff and was one of those stylists I would love to employ now. I would come in on my day off, I’d do all the hours I could and was earning good money, so I was happy. Then, one day, when I was 21, a client asked whether I was going to start my own salon and for some reason I said when I was 26. Up until that point it wasn’t really something I had considered and 26 was a number I just plucked out of nowhere. He then asked why I would wait and told me that I could be driving a Porsche when I was 26. I then went home from work that day and really thought about it. At the time, banks were offering a like for like loan, which meant that if you had £500, they would lend you £1,000. My mum, who was working in an electrical wholesaler at the time, had just been given a £1,000 bonus – she was earning around £8,000 a year at the time so this was a significant amount of money for us – but I asked if she was willing to lend it to me and, amazingly, she said yes.
So, I took the £1,000 to a bank and said that I wanted to buy a car and they then loaned me £3,000. I then took that £3,000 to another bank and said I wanted to buy a car for £7,000 and they gave it to me. I then took that £7,000 to Barclays, who I still bank with today, and they loaned me £15,000, which I used to open my first salon back in 1990. It was on the balcony of Castle Arcades in the centre of Cardiff and it was so small you could barely even see it, but I got a couple of guys I knew to help me fit it out and I opened not long after. Gary: Did you have an opening ceremony? Ken: Funny you should ask, because I did actually. At the time I was doing the hair of a local band called Waterfront, who had appeared on Top of the Pops and become local celebrities, so I asked if they would come down to open the new salon for me. We let the press know what was going to happen and I can still remember the headline for the piece that was in the newspaper the next day, it read ‘Ken comes a cropper’, and that was the start of it all for me. Gary: Amazing. How did you cope with going from a stylist to a business owner at such a young age? Ken: I was just so naive when I first started. After I had been open for four months, I had a conversation with the manager of the band, who happened to be a qualified accountant, and he said that I was going to have to be VAT registered. I didn’t really understand what that meant, other than the fact that it was going to have a significant impact on what I was going to take home every month. But I think that when you start to run
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 11
PEOPLE
a salon, it can be easy to look at everything from the perspective of a hairdresser, but instead it’s important to try and concentrate on the business as a whole and that is something I still try and do to this day.
The next two years were probably the hardest I’ve faced, but it did give me the opportunity to really learn the business. In the first six months, six of my staff fell pregnant – in fact, over the course of two years, 22 of my 33 staff had children – and I just didn’t know what to do. What I did learn though, is that as the business owner it was my responsibility to try and pick as much as I could up, so I began working seven days a week and everything was just about surviving. What saved us in the end was that as the women were going off on maternity leave, those that had already had their time off started to come back to work, so we managed to survive, but it was definitely touch and go for those two years.
Michael: Your new salon looks amazing, you’ve obviously come a long way from the salon on the balcony. Ken: Thank you, I am really pleased with the new salon and an awful lot has happened over the last 29 years. Three years after we opened, I managed to expand the salon either side of the original building, so it was three units. Then after five years I moved to a four-story building. It was all going well, but during this time I did have to change the name of the salon a few times because I was given a writ by the clothing chain Zoo, which had a few retails shops in London. I’d spent three years building up the name Zoo, so didn’t want to lose that, but eventually I renamed it The Zoo. The issue still carried on though, so in the end I changed it to Ken Picton’s The Zoo. Up until this point, I hadn’t really wanted to put my name on the front of the business, but it turned out to be one of the best things I did. Not long after, the BBC approached me to do a series called Dear Ken, where a camera crew followed me round for a few days. It went out around 7pm during the week but it never mentioned where I was, so there were lots of people phoning up the switchboards trying to track me down and it really helped then to have my name above the door. The back end of the 90s was really a great time for me, as the salon was going well, I was Artistic Director for Sebastian and was travelling the world. Then in 2000 I decided to move the salon to Cardiff Bay.
Michael: Has that changed how you run the business? Gary: That must have been a really big move for you. Ken: It really was. It really came about because I was looking to expand and it was just so difficult to do because of a lack of space in the city centre, so when this new development came up it was just right. The original idea was to actually have two salons and for them to be quite different from each other, with The Zoo being quite raw, with its bare brick walls and iron and then the new salon was going to be more luxurious. We ran the two salons for a couple of years, but it became evident that the new salon was the flagship one, so made the decision to close the Cardiff salon. Rather than getting rid of the space though, I decided to donate it to the local college, as they were looking for a venue to have clients in for training and I wanted to try and give something back in order to help the next generation.
Ken: Definitely. I now have an open recruitment policy, which means that I don’t wait for a position to be filled before recruiting, if the right person comes along then I will always find the space for them. Gary: That is exactly what we do as well. I just don’t think there is the luxury anymore to be able to wait for someone to go off and then try to find a replacement. Michael: How many people do you now employ? Ken: I currently have 37 people all under the one roof, but that includes a make-up artist, therapist and even a doctor who specialises in teeth whitening. Gary: We often dream about having just the one super salon and keeping everything under one roof, as we struggle at times to keep on top of everything. Ken: It is interesting, as I have spoken to a number of people with multiple salons and it seems that anyone with more than three seems to wish they had done it how I have. I can honestly say that it happened more by accident than design, but when it started to work, I just took the gamble on going big, rather than expanding and so far it is working. MIchael: So, when did you start going down the awards route? Ken: I started to get into the photography side of things, but I took a break from it when I opened the new salon as that took all of my energy for a few years. It has always remained a passion, but over the
years I have never really had any other team members who wanted to come in with me on it, so it has really just been my thing over the years. This then led to entering awards and we have been fortunate to have won a few over the years. Gary: You’re being modest, it has been more than a few. Ken: Alright, we have now won around 35 major awards. What’s always been nice for us, is that feeling of winning despite where we are located, as many of them can be a little London-centric. There was one year when we’d won the BHA Wales and South West and the BHBA Team and Salon of the Year, that was nice to be recognised across the board. Gary: You do get some hairdressers who don’t like doing competitions, but we’ve always been part of that scene and we find it helps give a huge amount of motivation to the team. Michael: I believe that they’re also an amazing way to build your brand, as well as helping to recruit great people too. Ken: Absolutely. Success is better shared and if you can take your team with you its magical. There is a reason why we recruit the best people, because it is clear what we are prepared to put in, in terms of training, development and opportunities – plus it always helps to be recognised as the best salon in your area. Gary: Over the last few years, you have really pushed Paul Dennison from your team and it is something that we have done with some of our own staff members over the years as well, but do you ever worry that he might leave? Ken: It happened to me recently with Dafydd Thomas, who left the salon to go and become the Global Education Manager at ghd, which is incredible. It was hard when he left, but he wanted to move to London and what was so nice was that he told me he didn’t want to work for another salon and I completely respected his decision. Paul is a wonderful colourist and I have Zoe, who is an exceptional talent and it does worry me that one of them will leave, but I try to work on the basis that as long as they’re doing the right things when they are with you, you can’t stop them from doing what they want to do and you shouldn’t try either. Giving people the opportunity to develop is a
great way of building the whole team because everyone sees the opportunities available and I find it helps motivate everyone. Michael: So, your role in the Fellowship, is that something you have you always wanted to do? Ken: I’ve been a member for 20 years and around five years ago I joined the Council. I would often have people telling me that I should join and that I’d make a good president, but I couldn’t really understand why. I initially went into it thinking that I would just give it a try and see what it does and then everything else just seemed to happen quite naturally. I took the Chancellor role when it came up and I absolutely loved it and would have been more than happy to continue doing it, but then I decided to put myself forward for President and was over the moon to have been given the role. I know it is going to be a lot of hard work, but I’m excited by it. It didn’t get off to the best start, because I became the president on Monday and then on Wednesday I was making the decision to pull the annual event from the Dorchester. We made the statement and then on President’s Night in my speech I said that we are diverse and inclusive industry and we do have a voice and that we should use it to stand up for what we believe in and it went down so well, as it was definitely the right thing to do.
Gary: So, what are your main plans as President? Ken: The Fellowship has changed over recent years with things like the introduction of the Live Lounge and the continuing move towards digital and that direction change will continue. To me, education now is digital and the inspiration comes from the shows and people just aren’t prepared to travel to education events and increasingly think that it isn’t worth the thousands of pounds it costs to attend, especially when the digital courses are really good and so accessible. I had done a lot of work previously with Jo Martin and Simon Shaw on moving the Fellowship to a more digital-based model and I see my role as President really being to help facilitate that change further. Michael: To me, it’s so important that as life moves on the Fellowship has to develop with it. I’ve always thought that the Fellowship should be more modern in order to draw more young people to it and I think that the type of things you’re talking about is what will help achieve that. Gary: So, what does the future hold for Ken Picton, do you think you’ll ever retire? Ken: I do sometimes question the level of intensity that I currently work at and I don’t doubt that there will be a point in the future when I take a step backwards slightly, but I don’t think I could ever retire, and it honestly hasn’t even crossed my mind – I love what I do too much. At this moment, my focus is still on growing the business and continuing the momentum and the future will take care of itself. Ken is just lovely! Hard working, dedicated to our industry and a real family man in every sense of the term. His career is inspiring and has seen him create a business model that has gone from strength to strength with an amazing team behind him. As the newly appointed President of the Fellowship we do believe that he will bring an amazing energy to the roll as he does with everything in his life, we salute you Mr President!
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 13
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COLOUR
On her recent trip to the UK we caught up with superstar colourist and JOICO Brand Ambassador, Larisa Love for a quick colour conversation… Best part of nature for colour inspiration? It changes all the time. With different seasons come different colours and textures.
Your favourite way to educate? Being authentic and myself. I don’t use high terminology words to sound more advanced but simply teach as if I’m speaking to a friend.
Current favourite colour trend/technique? I love all of the natural warm colours coming through.
Last time you were star-struck? When I saw my favorite artist Børns at a bar. I had met him before so when I saw him again I didn’t want to come up to him and repeat myself saying I loved his music so all I could do is stare from afar and walk away. Lol
Best colour product to achieve this? The newly launching JOICO LumiShine Natural Warm Nude series. How does colour affect your mood? A good hair day vs a bad hair day can affect your mood tremendously because it’s one of the first things you see. Same goes for colour. If you aren’t loving your colour it will show in your internal confidence. Is colour a big part of your own personal style? Tremendously. Colour can whisper or be loud, it really depends on your true self whether you want to stand out and be bold or still be fabulous with a softer look. Use of colour in your salon interior? I love industrial with reclaimed wood with a touch of high class adding chandeliers. It allows all types of people to feel comfortable in the salon.
App you can’t live without? Splice and Snapseed. Last person you followed on Instagram? The fabulous Zoe Irwin of course! @zoeirwinhair Favourite emoji? always sending that to my boyfriend Sebastian. Favourite cocktail? Cosmos, but while I’m in the UK I love a Pornstar Martini… we don’t get them in the US!
Most popular current colour trend with your clients? Blondes are always popular, especially in L.A! What do you do if a client asks for a colour that doesn’t suit them? Always be honest. You are the professional and they are seeking advice from you. If you explain to them why the colour won’t suit them and which colour will compliment them better they are most likely will go with your advice. Always have integrity in your work and only do work that you know will be great on the client. What’s on your salon playlist? Depends on the mood of the day. We love to use Pandora. As for stations we play Oddezsa or Børns for chill, relaxed vibes. Your greatest hairdressing mentor? Nina @PassionSquared. She’s a mentor, a friend and someone I can call any time of the day and know I will get amazing advice.
MY COLOURFUL LIFE PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 17
SPOTLIGHT
NO COMPROMISE Go lighter and brighter without compromise with the new TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder specially designed for creative colourists with a passion for freehand techniques such as balayage, micro or baby lights. TIGI Copyright Colour has developed a new innovative clay lightener empowering colourists to create lighter and brighter healthier blondes without compromise. Formulated with clay and mineral oil, True Light Freestyle Blonder guarantees seamless applications, achieving up to seven levels of lift in only 40 minutes, for quicker and easier freehand painting services. It also features an Anti-Breakage Arginine Complex to preserve excellent hair condition during the lightening process. The new lightener is also the perfect colour partner to TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery and Booster Treatments and when used as a system they offer the ultimate anti-breakage blonding solution for any client’s hair colour or type.
“As a salon owner and educator, I know only too well the importance of delivering fast, easy to apply, lightening services that don’t compromise hair condition. That’s exactly why TIGI created Copyright True Light Freestyle Blonder. Supported by TIGI Copyright Care SOS and Booster regimes, salons now have the power to transform their clients’ hair into beautiful, shiny, healthy blondes, resulting in increased client satisfaction and loyalty as well as retail growth and increased profitability.” Christel Lundqvist, TIGI Global Technical Creative Director and Founder of STIL – Salon. FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HG001
18 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
PEOPLE
TREND SPOTTING
WITH BABYLISS PRO
Paula McCash in East London “Last year, if women were doing anything to their hair, they were simply enhancing that natural texture and movement,” says session stylist Paula McCash, “so moving into 2019, it’s time for a change.” Paula has been on the UK style scene for some time now. She made a name for herself working on the Alan Edwards Creative team, winning awards in Scotland for her creative talent and skill for spotting a trend. Nowadays, you’ll find her backstage at the international Fashion Weeks, supporting global names like Syd Hayes, as well as keying her own shows. She’s proud to be part of a new breed of creative - a collective hub of designers, photographers, stylists and hairdressers who freely collaborate with one another. Here Paula is looking at trends in East London, where she calls home. “The strong bob is the haircut the has really emerged as a major trend. It’s the haircut seen on models like Irina Shayk or Bella Hadid. Not to mention, every one of the Kardashians, Cardi B and Margot Robbie. “Not only can cutting your hair into a bob be liberating, it can also bring a sense of power and control, which is exactly where women want to be. “There are different ways to wear a classic bob for 2019. The first is sleek and angular – section the hair and, starting at the nape of the neck, take inch long sections and use a comb to guide your straightener (I use the BaByliss PRO Prima 3000) down the hair. Repeat this working from the bottom up to get the best shiny finish. “Wavy bobs are so now. Using both 25mm and 16mm Titanium Expression Curling Tongs for diversity, take rough sections and wrap the hair around the barrel under and over. For other sections, mainly at the top, curl from the root to create volume. I like to part the hair in a messy deep side part to get that messy ‘cool girl’ look, and I’m partial to a few colourful hair clips here and there too, but that’s your call.”
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PEOPLE
GIANLUCA CARUSO IS A STYLIST AT THE TONI&GUY NORTH AUDLEY STREET SALON LONDON AND EDUCATOR AT THE TONI&GUY ACADEMY. HE WAS CROWNED 2018 NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR AT THE BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS.
Gifted &Talented
Why I was attracted to hairdressing. This is such an amazing industry, you can be whoever you want to be. You can be a stylist, a session stylist, a colourist or a salon owner. The different opportunities available as a career is what attracted me from day one. There are so many training courses you can choose to go on; you can learn something new every day and constantly push yourself. My first impression of the hairdressing world. I was quite nervous as it was very different to what I was expecting. The environment was so young, fresh and cool and that scared me, but at the same time I was excited to start something completely different to what I was used to at school. I was planning on going to university and becoming an engineer but changed my mind. My training and the main lessons I’ve learnt. I started my training at the TONI&GUY Academy in Milan and then moved to London
22 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
and continued to train at the Academy here. My training was intense and lasted for three years. I was taught hairdressing skills but I was also taught how to do a consultation, social skills, the right language to use and confidence behind a chair. These skills are just as important as being able to cut hair. Early goals and how I achieved them. I wanted to focus on my portfolio and become a better educator; it’s important that we all pass on our skills and knowledge. I love taking part in photo shoots and shows as they give me an opportunity to express my creativity and winning Newcomer of the Year is just the start of this journey! The more I can do, the stronger I will become. Career highlights so far. I have achieved so much and I am honoured to have won different awards so early in my career. As well as Newcomer of the Year in the British Hairdressing Awards, I’ve also won Best
Young Hairdresser twice in the Italian Hairdressing Awards, as well as Best Cut and Best Overall Look. However, to win in the UK means a lot as British hairdressing is the best in the world. I’ve been involved in London Fashion Week, am a member of the TONI&GUY artistic team and have the privilege to teach in our academy. It has been an amazing journey so far and I can’t believe this is only the beginning! My future goals. I would love to have my own team one day and run my own salon, as well as continue to be the best educator that I can be. My advice to someone starting out in hair. Be open to anything. Study and learn everything you can, it’s as simple as that. Surround yourself with positive people and people that you admire. These are the motivations you need every day, then it doesn’t matter what you do. Set goals and have a constant focus.
TREND
Zöe Irwin HI, MY NAME IS
and I am a trend addict... Better together We are in a time of great collaborations when two big brands come together and create something that shows their signature style blended together to create something completely fresh. This gains continual press. We are seeing designers go to high street brands and work their style into an affordable range, increasing their audience and growing further love for their brand. Wherever I look, there is collaboration and it feels like a trend that will continue to shape the next decade. This interests me so much for the hair world. I collaborated with the wonderful colourist Jack Howard, styling hair for Jack’s beautiful chic balayage. His soft colour blended with my airy blown out texture. We both adore a chic aesthetic and so to work together became seamless. The collection could gain a wider audience and coverage through using both our names. It was also incredible fun. And so for my first launch as the Creative Director for John Frieda Salons I have chosen to collaborate. My first launch is in response to the hair trend of the year, which is accessories. From seventies influenced turban bands to chic velvet Parisian black bows that adorn ponytails, whatever your style there is an accessory for you. But how to make this trend work? In the last month I have given endless quotes to a range of magazines on how to place them, how to choose them and how to make this chic and elegant rather than teenage and inappropriate. The way I launch is as a response to a hair market need that I research. There is so much interest in this trend. On my last visit to Liberty and Selfridges they have tripled the amount of accessories they are retailing and the area they are displayed in is in prime space. These are the things I note and look for as I investigate
movements. So how are salons responding? My concept is to launch a masterclass tutorial-style hair appointment to our clients. I have collaborated with an incredible brand called Born In The Sun which I spotted as I researched and as it is on the heads of key influentual fashion and beauty people it feels like the perfect brand for me. Also as I am representing a hair brand that is known for its modern chicness in hair, it was important to me that this range was not over the top sparkly, not too gimmicky, and made in beautiful materials. This feels like a perfect match. The accessories are in a range of styles and I have brought them in to retail throughout the salons. I have designed two A2 moodboards which are printed and mounted on hard card. These have iconic images of actresses in the 60’s and 70’s wearing hairbands, turbans and large bows, mixed with more recent images from catwalk shows and on celebrities. These are important to give the press and clients inspiration. I have set up an area to shoot images in, so as the press come in I will shoot flattering pictures of them for instagram. I have had a sticker with the hashtag made to go on our mirrors. I have also created small make-up bags to hold the accessories and a variety of small brushes and clips and styling product for a perfect accessory styling kit, these I have had branded with John Frieda. It is so much fun to create a launch, I encourage you to try.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23
ADVERTORIAL
ghd PRESENTS MY TATTOO. MY STORY.
THE POWER OF PINK THIS YEAR IS A SPECIAL YEAR FOR GHD AS THE BRAND CELEBRATES ITS 15TH ANNIVERSARY SUPPORTING BREAST CANCER CHARITIES. IN THAT TIME GHD HAS HELPED RAISE OVER £10MILLION GLOBALLY AND THE GOAL THIS YEAR IS TO RAISE A FURTHER £1MILLION WITH THE LATEST COLLECTION ‘INK ON PINK’.
Artistic Partnership To celebrate this momentous year, ghd has partnered with Chicago-based mastectomy tattoo artist David Allen. David uses his signature floral tattoo creations to transform and build back self-esteem for women affected by breast cancer. Adorning the new ‘Ink on Pink’ collection from ghd, David’s iconic abstract floral artwork evokes a fierce sense of femininity. It becomes much more than just a tattoo but a powerful statement of self-love and renewed confidence, symbolising both life and rebirth.
Bringing this campaign to life and capturing the beauty of the ink work is Grace Lombardo, who is the muse of the ghd pink campaign. Grace worked with David following her own breast cancer treatment and her mastectomy tattoo has allowed her to recapture the femininity that cancer began to steal away.
“The connection with ghd and this partnership makes sense. When I work with my clients, it takes time, we build back their confidence together and these incredible women open up to me. Much like that time you spend with your hair stylist, that intimacy and power of transformation is akin to one another” DAVID ALLEN
INK ON PINK COLLECTION The award-winning ghd Platinum+ and ghd Gold stylers are available within the new collection. Enveloped in a delicate, glistening shade of pink, adorned with the intricate floral artwork from David Allen, these stunning stylers tell the story of the power of partnership. The ghd Gold Limited Edition Styler retails at £139 with £10 going to Breast Cancer Now. The ghd Platinum+ Limited Edition Styler retails at £175 with £10 going to Breast Cancer Now.
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BECOME A STOCKIST, CONTACT YOUR GHD ACCOUNT MANAGER OR CALL 01924 423400.
MY TATTOO. MY STORY.
FOR THE LAST 15 YEARS, GHD HAS PROUDLY SUPPORTED BREAST CANCER CHARITIES WITH THEIR ANNUAL PINK PRODUCT RANGES, RAISING WELL OVER £10 MILLION IN THAT TIME. With your support, this year ghd is aiming to raise a further £1 million globally for breast cancer charities, with £10 from each limited edition styler sold in the UK going to Breast Cancer Now. ghd’s ‘My Tattoo, My Story’ campaign features the real stories and experiences of women who opted for a tattoo post-mastectomy; in collaboration with Breast Cancer Now, we spoke exclusively to four women who are proud to raise awareness and share their stories.
HERE ARE THEIR STORIES, IN THEIR OWN WORDS...
ALICE-MAY PURKISS 30, London For Alice, getting a tattoo was a way of taking ownership of her breast cancer experience. The writer and journalist, who lives in London with her husband, was diagnosed in July 2015 when she was only 26, after finding a lump in her breast. She had chemotherapy, radiotherapy, mastectomy and a reconstruction, and says she knew she wanted a mastectomy tattoo soon after she was diagnosed. “My tattoo has transformed my feelings about my body and my breast in such an incredible way. I’ve gone from having a scar that reminds me of everything I’ve been through to having this beautiful piece of art that I carry with me every single day. I’m so grateful I’ve been able to reclaim my body in this way with this incredible tattoo,” she said. “The idea for my tattoo came to me like a dream. I’m a writer and I love stories and writing about breast cancer was a huge part of my recovery. I’ve written a book about it and writing has been a massive solace for me not only through this experience but throughout my whole life. It felt like it made sense for me to mark this experience with a quill. After deciding on the quill I wanted some powerful words to go with my tattoo. One of my favourite films is Hook and one of the last lines is ‘to live would be an awfully big adventure’ and to me that sums up my life after breast cancer.” Alice was a model for Breast Cancer Care in The Show London in 2016 and since then has written a book, Life, Lemons and Melons about breast cancer and mental health. She has also supported the charity by taking part in a Facebook live interview at Facebook HQ, appearing in a topless photoshoot (pre-reconstruction) in New magazine, as well as writing two blogs for Breast Cancer Care’s website about mental health and her experience of radiotherapy respectively. For more information, visit https://alicemaypurkiss.co.uk/
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 29
KATHLEEN ELLWOOD 55, South Lanarkshire When Kathleen Ellwood looks at her mastectomy tattoo, she is reminded of the beauty of life. The 55-year-old mother of two was left with multiple scars from four operations – including a mastectomy – after being diagnosed with primary breast cancer first in 2005 and again in 2010. Kathleen says she has never felt embarrassed about the scars from her life-saving operations and never wanted a reconstruction. But since having the tattoo, when she looks at her chest, she sees something beautiful, which to her symbolises life.
NATASHA GOODMAN 39, Northamptonshire Natasha marks every big moment in her life with a new tattoo, so when she finished breast cancer treatment for a second time she knew what she wanted to do next. The mother-of-two, who had a lumpectomy, chemotherapy and radiotherapy when she was first diagnosed in 2011, had a double mastectomy and immediate reconstruction when she was diagnosed with primary breast cancer for a second time in 2017. When she was diagnosed the second time, she bought a cherry tree for both her children, including her 18 month old daughter, to give them something to remember her by if her breast cancer became incurable. The tree inspired her cherry blossom tattoo. “After I had my mastectomy and reconstruction, I opted not to have my nipples saved or tattooed on as I didn’t see the point. They didn’t feel like my breasts anymore,” she said. “I love my scars and I’ll show them to anybody but I also love tattoos. I love cherry blossom and after my diagnosis I bought a cherry tree for my children so that if anything happened they would have a place to go and think about their mum,” she said. “It’s been about two years since I got my mastectomy tattoo and I love it now more than ever. When people ask why I got it I can tell my story. My tattoo is my way of coping with what I have had to go through.”
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Kathleen, of Symington, South Lanarkshire, said: “When I reached the five-year anniversary after my second breast cancer diagnosis, I wanted to do something to mark how I feel – that every day should be a celebration of life. I chose to get a tattoo of a lily because it symbolises life and my life was certainly going to be there for the living.” “Since I’ve had my tattoo I feel it’s given me more confidence in my own body. I feel like I’m more in control and don’t feel so aware of my scars. I am thrilled with my lily. Now when I look at where my breast used to be, I’m reminded not of operations but of the beauty of life.”
The charity Breast Cancer Care and Breast Cancer Now has lots of information for women considering a mastectomy tattoo. Below are some details to consider. Tattoos after breast cancer surgery Some people consider having an artistic tattoo on their breast or chest after breast cancer surgery. This could be after breast conserving surgery, a mastectomy or breast reconstruction. Sometimes this is referred to as a mastectomy tattoo or tittoo. Artistic tattoos are different to nipple and areola tattooing which are carried out by a doctor or nurse who has had specialist training. Why get a tattoo? People consider having an artistic tattoo for a variety of reasons, including to: help them to feel more confident after breast cancer treatment, mark what they have been through and create something personal to cover or disguise a scar
NATASHA VEERASAWMY 44, LOndon Natasha says her mastectomy tattoo has helped her to feel free.
When can I get a tattoo? Before getting a tattoo your operation sites need to be completely healed. This may take up to a year but it can be longer. You should have also finished any chemotherapy or radiotherapy treatment. Check with your treatment team if you’re considering getting a tattoo.
Natasha and eight other members of her family have had a cancer diagnosis, including her sister who was going through treatment when Natasha was diagnosed and later sadly died of the disease.
Can you tattoo over scar tissue? Most tattoo artists will incorporate any surgical scar into the design and shape of the tattoo, rather than actually inject ink into it. This is because scar tissue is different to normal skin and less porous meaning the colour and definition of the ink can be affected.
The 44-year-old mum had chemotherapy, a mastectomy and a reconstruction after she was diagnosed in 2014 and chose to get a tattoo after seeing a post on Instagram.
Can tattoos cause lymphoedema? It’s not known if having a tattoo on your breast or chest may increase the risk of developing lymphoedema in that area. This is a buildup of lymph fluid in the surface tissues of the body which causes swelling. It can be controlled but may not completely go away. It’s caused by damage to the lymphatic system which may happen during breast surgery or radiotherapy. It’s not clear why some people develop lymphoedema and some don’t but it’s thought infection and further damage to the lymphatic system may play a part.
Natasha, who was born in London, grew up in New York and now lives in London, said: “After they finished the tattoo, I cried. “The experience of cancer has been so ugly in terms of the journey and so many people passing in my family. My breast is something beautiful now. It closed the chapter in my life that day. It made me feel free.”
To access support or information, call the charity’s free helpline on 0808 800 6000 or visit breastcancercare.org.uk or breastcancernow.org
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 31
WAHL Artistic Team
Hair WAHL Style Team Joshua Goldsworthy, Sophie Gibson, James Nicklin, Alex Morton, Jonathon Turner, Diana Carson Make-up Kirsten Baillie Photography Michael Young Art Direction Hooker & Young
Cos Sakkas Hair Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY London Photography Jack Eames
Hair Joey Scandizzo Make-up Kylie O’Toole Photography Andrew O’Toole
TRICHOLOGY
Let’s get to root of the problem. In a new series Trisha Buller MIT SRSH senior consultant Trichologist and owner of the award-wining Ciente salon in Berkhamsted, will be looking at how the scalp category can help your salon win on the high street. In this series I shall be explaining the importance of dealing with your clients concerns regarding any hair issues, and the way in which you can communicate, using simple language so the client can actually visualise in their minds what you are explaining. Knowledge is power and will gain confidence from your clients. Once a client buys into your advice and guidance they become far more loyal to you and your brand. Keeping up to date with the latest brands and your salon products is essential too, continual professional development should be ongoing for all team members, and we owe it to our clients to deliver a service and experience second to none.
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Regime rules Hair is a barometer of our inner health and we need to be aware of any hair changes with our clients, regardless how small or insignificant they may appear to be. For example; colour fading faster than usual to blow dry styling collapsing after 20 minutes these could be an indication of underlying issues. However, before we delve deeper within our dermis, lets discuss hair care regimes and the questions we need to be asking and how we advise our clients. ● How often do you think your scalp needs cleansing? ● What are the benefits of using a premium professional brand? ● Are hair treatments and conditioners really an important part of your hair care regime to keep your hair looking healthy, shiny and full of body and bounce? Sebum is produced onto the scalp from our sebaceous glands, which are an appendage of hair follicles, The finer the hair per cm2 the more chance of experiencing an oily scalp, as every hair follicle has a sebaceous gland attached. The coarser the hair is the less hair per cm2 so the less hair follicles producing sebum. Hence coarse hair can appear dry, dull and lacking in shine and lustre, whereas fine hair can appear to become oily much quicker. To maintain a healthy scalp and to rehydrate dry hair or cleanse the scalp from oil you should be cleansing your hair every day. This is not suitable for everyone as busy life schedules dominate our daily routines, but this is the best way to keep your scalp cleansed, and to oxygenate the blood supply to the hair follicles creating a healthy hair growth . Professional products contain such high quality ingredients now that it helps to keep your hair rehydrated, removing the toxins from the atmosphere, which are drying and can cause oxidation damage over a long period of time. Cleanser advice ● Choose the cleanser for your scalp type. ● Ensure you use a small amount of the cleanser (size of ten pence piece). ● Pour into the palm of your hands and emulsify. ● Evenly distribute throughout the scalp.
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If you have an oily scalp try not to massage as this will stimulate the sebaceous glands exacerbating an oily scalp, use tepid water not hot as this too will stimulate the sebaceous glands causing excess sebum. Use a cool rinse to close the pores of the scalp. If your scalp is dry, you need to stimulate the sebaceous glands, so a massage may possibly stimulate creating more sebum.
Conditioning advice Conditioner is important as it protects the outside layer of the hair (the cuticle). ● The cuticle reflects daylight when the scales are laying in a downward fashion, however if the cuticle is raised due to mechanical, chemical or other oxidation abuse, the hair cuticle will be devoid, hence absorbing light and creating a dull, flat, lifeless appearance. ● Apply the conditioner after every shampoo, rinsing thoroughly so as not to leave any residue which can affect the styling process of the hair service. Hair treatment advice Hair treatment works within the hair structure, (cortex). ● This is important as hair colour, and other chemical services can change the inner structure of the hair. ● Hair conditioners and treatment have a positive charge, so are attracted into the cortex, balancing the hair pH and giving a full outer shell of electrons and neutrons, limiting static charges within the hair structure, creating shine, body and bounce. ● Always finish with a conditioner as this will protect the cuticle and lock in the treatment, by closing the cuticle. ● Always use a wide tooth comb to detangle, starting from the ends gently moving towards the roots, avoid using a hair brush, as the brush could catch the knot and tear the hair fibre until it breaks, fracturing and creating split ends. ● Regularly change your hair brush as damaged bristles can exacerbate hair breakage too.
Full details of Trisha Buller MIT SRSH senior consultant Trichologist contact; 07545344121. www.trishabuller.com trichology@trishabuller.com
www.goldwell.co.uk
Exfoliate, cleanse and rebalance ebalance Kerasilk back-bar services offer offer a luxury answer to your client’s scalp and hair needs.
BEAUTIFUL HAIR STARTS WITH A HEAL HEALTHY THY SCALP The scalp ages extremely fast – six times faster than facial skin. This ageing process is accelerated by external stress factors (e.g. UV radiation, pollution, chemical stress, heat and cold) that cause oxidative stress and result in a dehydrated, imbalanced scalp and weak, thinning hair. It’s time to experience the scalp facial with KERASILK REVIT REVITALIZE ALIZE by Goldwell - a new rejuvenating scalp care routine, inspired by luxury skin care. These unique products help to protect and counteract the key signs of scalp ageing to reveal the most beautiful hair, thanks to one of nature’s most powerful protectors that effectively effectively shields the scalp from oxidative stress: ECTOIN®. Three tailored product segments individually transform the scalp to reveal healthier, youthful-looking hair.
SHAMPOO & SERUM
SHAMPOO & SERUM
For dry, sensitive scalp
For unbalanced scalp
For weak, thinning hair
Together the products intensively hydrate dry, sensitive scalps, with wholesome grape seed extract.
Effectively removes dandruff Effectively dandruff and prevents an oily scalp, with red algae known for its purifying properties.
Strengthens the roots and densifies the hair, with ginseng which is known for its strengthening power.
For further information please call 03301 239530
SHAMPOO & SERUM
TRICHOLOGY
Intensive Care Prioritising scalp health is GOLDWELL’S new rejuvenating scalp and hair care routine inspired by luxury skin care. Goldwell’s KERASILK REVITALIZE is a new rejuvenating scalp care routine, inspired by luxury skin care. These unique products help to protect and counteract the key signs of scalp ageing to reveal beautiful hair, thanks to one of nature’s most powerful protectors that effectively shields the scalp from oxidative stress: ECTOIN®. Oxidative stress is the main cause of scalp ageing and is caused by external factors such as UV rays, pollution, chemical stress, and extreme heat and cold. This results in issues such as dehydration, imbalance, and thinning, weak hair. KERASILK REVITALIZE helps keep the scalp healthy by protecting it from these factors. The innovative KERATRANSFORM TECHNOLOGY (KT³) combines silk for luxurious colour protection, Keratin for structural support, while the third advanced ingredient (inspired by skin care science), delivers specialised results specific to each segment: NOURISHING – intensively hydrates dry, sensitive scalps, with wholesome grapeseed DETOXIFYING – effectively removes dandruff and prevents an oily scalp with red algae known for its purifying properties REDENSIFYING – strengthens the roots and densifies the hair, with ginseng which is known for its strengthening power
Scalp Facial This unique experience begins in the salon with a professional service and can be continued at home to maintain the salon results. After the EXFOLIATING PRE-WASH is applied, the SHAMPOO gently cleanses and is followed by the REBALANCING SCALP FOUNDATION that activates and prepares the scalp for the serums. Clients can choose from three different serums for a customised experience. The exclusive salon service concludes with a luxurious massage, bespoke to each serum.
Revitalising range EXFOLIATING PRE-WASH The EXFOLIATING PRE-WASH deeply cleanses the scalp thanks to Jojoba derived exfoliants. Recommended to use once every two weeks. REBALANCING SCALP FOUNDATION The REBALANCING SCALP FOUNDATION with activating micro foam moisturises and rebalances the scalp by creating a strengthened natural protective layer of the skin. The NOURISHING SHAMPOO and NOURISHING SERUM gently cleanse and intensively hydrate. Together they help strengthen the skin’s natural protective layer, retain moisture and create a long-lasting soothing effect**. The DETOXIFYING SHAMPOO and DETOXIFYING SERUM effectively cleanse, fight the symptoms of dandruff and rebalance an oily scalp* for a long-lasting clarifying effect**. The REDENSIFYING SHAMPOO and REDENSIFYING SERUM together gently cleanse, effectively help prevent the symptons of hereditary hair loss and strengthen the roots for long-lasting thicker, denser hair**. *with regular usage ** Use daily to achieve the desired result.
Find out more www.rdr.link/HG002 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 49
LOSS
LEADERS
ACCORDING TO THE NHS, EIGHT CLIENTS WILL SUFFER FROM HAIR LOSS AND HAIR THINNING AT SOME POINT IN THEIR LIVES. AS A HAIRDRESSER YOU ARE THEIR FIRST PORT OF CALL, SO LET YOUR SALON LEAD THE WAY WITH THE RIGHT KNOWLEDGE TO RECOMMEND THE MOST USEFUL PRODUCTS AND TO GIVE THE BEST ADVICE.
NIOXIN Recharging Complex food supplement contains biotin and zinc, two ingredients which prove a nutrional boost and support healthy growing hair. Officially supported by the Institute of Trichologists the supplements offer a boost to a diet lacking in specific nutrients that can lead to fine or thinning hair.
Grow by HAIR GAIN harnesses the power of the pea to give visibly thicker and stronger hair from the inside out. The supplement uses the Ana Gain ingredient in the pea shoot to stimulate specific particles within the dermal papilla cells to kick start hair growth.
MILK_SHAKE Energizing Blend haircare system for fragile and thinning hair uses the natural powers of rosemary, sage and Fioravanti balm extract to purify and stimulate the scalp’s microcirculation to create an optimal environment for new hair growth. Panthenol in the formula also gives more density to the hair.
INSIGHT has developed a range derived from organic extracts that strengthens the hair, improves vitality and prevents and restores hair loss. The Loss Control collection boasts a Fortifying Shampoo which carries out a reinforcing and stimulating action on the hair bulb and soothes the skin, giving a feeling a feeling of freshness.
What are some of the main causes of hair loss? “Three of the most common ‘triggers’ to hair loss can be: ● Hormonal imbalance known as Androgenic Alopecia. ● Insufficient blood quality in key vitamins and minerals for hair growth known as Telogen Effluvium. ● Autoimmune response with our own immune system attacking our follicles or scalp tissue, known as conditions such as Alopecia, Areata or Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia.” Wil Fleeson, Director of Trichology Scotland and Owner of Rainbow Room International, Stirling & Buchanan Street Salons.
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TRICHOLOGY
Can someone’s lifestyle cause his or her hair to thin? “Certain diet and lifestyle factors have become more popular in recent years, and this may contribute to an increase in clients suffering from diet-related hair thinning and hair loss. If you think this may be the case, then it’s worth highlighting this to your clients, encouraging them to pay special attention to their diet to ensure they get all the protein, vitamins, minerals and nutrients they need. If your client’s hair loss or thinning is not overly visible, and is likely to be temporary, such as post-partum hair loss, you may wish to advise on a new cut or style that will help to hide the thinning areas. A change of colour can also be incredibly effective at disguising hair that has become finer.” Dawn Campbell, Academy Manager, Bad Apple Hair Group
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GET AHEAD OF HAIRLOSS LAUNCHES FOR 2019
Dr. Sharon Wong, leading consultant dermatologist and hair expert brings the event back for second year.
GL Volume is a solution for thinning hair from GREAT LENGTHS. It consists of a skull cap which has the highest quality natural hair sewn into it. The GL Volume piece is attached by looping the natural hair around the outer edges and securing it with the unique GL Drops which allow the head to breathe.
To be held at 1 Wimpole Street, London, on 22 September the event will see experts from dermatology, trichology and hairdressing look at the many causes of hair loss, the psychological effects and style advice for all hair types and ages. Speakers on the day include top hairdressers Andrew Barton, Charlotte Mensah, Jamie Stevens. Stephen Nurse and Inanch Emir, along with trichologists Tony Maleedy and Glenn Lyons, hair transplant surgeon Bessam Farjo and scientist Gillian Westgate. Dr Sharon says: “I founded this event as so many people don’t understand what causes their hair loss and are afraid to talk about it. This exciting and informative event will arm consumers and hairdressers with advice on new treatments on the horizon, style advice to disguise and enhance your hair, language to use in a consultation and style solutions for consumers and hairdressers. It’s a must for any consumer or hairdresser who is concerned about hair loss and thinning.” Tickets for the one-day event are available from getaheadofhairloss.com
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Does the impact on psychological health caused by hair loss differ between men and women? “I think the impact on mental health for men and women are equally distressing. A common characteristic is how we as a society stereotype men. Men are conformed to certain phrases such as ‘be strong, don’t let it bother you’. I believe it can be very distressing for men and we often don’t discuss male baldness. For women, I feel hair loss can be very traumatic. In many cases women can lose their hair during very serious illnesses, and during recovery when their hair is starting to grow back, I truly believe it can make a huge difference to their recovery process.” Skyler Hanna, Great Lengths certified stylist, Creative Director, Skyler London
MALIBU C Scalp Wellness collection is a 100% vegan, supreme system that feeds the scalp with wellness ingredients to help banish flaking, itching and irritation whilst awakening the senses with refreshing essential oils of spearmint and eucalyptus. It naturally removes and prevents the build up of waterborne elements that can cause scalp issues.
EUFORA’s range of thickening products contain a clever complex, ProAmino Cell Complex, which combines two breakthrough technologies that work together to create a healthy scalp environment needed to support hair growth. The line stimulates the hair follicle and scalp, promotes oxygen to the scalp, and calms irritations and dryness.
The hero ingredient in VIVISCAL PROFESSIONAL supplements, marine protein complex, combines with Biotin and Vitamin C to give those with thinning and excess shedding concerns fuller and healthier looking hair. The brand has over 25 years of experience in giving hair a scientifically formulated boost from within.
What is your top tip for healthy hair, even before signs of hair thinning begin to appear? “Without question, my top tip for healthy colour has to be Viviscal Professional. It’s amazing and the results are incredible. Clients often expect a lot from a colour appointment, and as colourists, we want to be able to work on the best fabric possible, so it makes sense to educate them - great hair and a healthy scalp always starts with hair that’s in great condition. This is something I’ve always said and now this can be achieved not just with the right shampoo and conditioner but with two tablets daily from Viviscal Professional. This can only be bought from salon professionals and is much more potent than the store-bought versions - make sure your clients know this when you tell them about it.” Jack Howard, celebrity hairdresser
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The Dualsenses Scalp Specialist range by GOLDWELL boasts two Anti-Hair Loss products, a spray and a serum which when used daily effectively prevent hereditary hair loss by thickening the hair fibre instantly and supporting the anchoring of the hair in the scalp.
TRICHOLOGY
Are there inevitable catalysts for hair loss, such as the menopause? “It’s not that hair loss is more common during menopause, but it’s a fact that there are some hair loss conditions that are more common when woman are perimenopausal or postmenopausal. By this I mean that because someone enters the menopausal phase of their life, this does not automatically mean they are going to start losing their hair but that conditions such as Androgenic Alopecia and Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia are seen more common in postmenopausal women.”
What are your first thoughts when consulting with someone who suspects their hair is thinning?
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BC Bonacure Scalp Genesis is a detoxifying scalp system, which instantly rebalances the scalp whilst working to improve and secure future hair quality. The superior technology contains a unique StemCodeTM Complex as well as a range of specific Vitamins, creating a stress-defying system that helps to protect against oxidative stress and external aggressors, while protecting the hair bulb.
“Empathy and understanding is crucial when dealing with communication between ourselves and any person whom has or feels they have hair loss. I put myself in their shoes and imagine how I would feel. The biggest fear for people with forms of hair loss is not just the loss, but will it return, and back to how the hair was before. Reassurance that there are people out there specifically trained to assist in the form of a trichologist is key. A lot of people have never heard of a trichologist and pointing your client in the right direction would leave them eternally grateful for your help.” Wil Fleeson, Director of Trichology Scotland and Owner of Rainbow Room International, Stirling & Buchanan Street Salons
The MANTA hair brush is the first brush to mold to the shape of the hand and scalp, creating less tension while brushing while stimulating the scalp to promote healthy hair growth. The silicone brush is easier on hair that is considerably thinner and more susceptible to breaking, gently freeing knots with every stroke.
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D I VA S I G N AT U R E P R E M I U M ELECTRICAL STYLING RANGE
Developed with the stylist at the forefront, Diva Signature offers a product range with a unique pricing structure that supports salons with margins to make it a win/win for everyone. Priced to sell through to customers at an incredibly generous margin, Diva Signature goes all out to support salons and stylists to improve income streams whilst keeping clients very happy. These top-of-the-range electricals are the amongst the best in the market. Keep them for yourself or display on shelf for customers. Packaging is a key element with sell-through to clients and this range will draw admiring glances as it sits in your salon retail section. With editorially-styled imagery that will communicate directly to your customers, Diva Signature shows the way forward for all suppliers.
In order for salons and stylists to test this unique new concept, Diva Signature is offering 50% off RRPs on divasignature.com with code PROHAIR50. Try it. If it works for you, sign up and continue to receive similar prices. RRPs from £30-£200.
What ’s no t t o love? T&Cs Valid until end of September 2019, exclusively at www.divasignature.com. While stocks last.
SPOTLIGHT
SPOILT FOR CHOICE ghd has launched its latest innovation into RUSH Salons across the country and it’s set to be a game changer. Here Lorna Baker, ghd Education Manager UK and ROI gets to grips with the Oracle and shares with us her tips for creating the best curls in endless styles.
Consider your section size The size of the section you take will affect the shape of the curl you create. Using a small section will create a tighter movement, while thicker sections create softer movement. Remember that a very thick section won’t pass through the Oracle’s U-shaped barrel, so keep them a reasonable size.
Prep the hair Comb through each section before you place it into the Oracle, so that it can pass through smoothly and effectively.
Use the curl-zone When you’ve placed the Oracle in the hair, tilt your wrist and ensure that your section is passing over the curl-zone; this allows the hair to curl, cool, then set into shape.
Choose your speed The speed at which you pass your section through the Oracle will impact the result of your curl. Moving quickly will create a softer movement, while working through slowly will create a tighter, smoother movement.
Position your curl Once the hair has passed through the Oracle, twist the section into position to allow it to find its curl.
Choose your angle By tilting the oracle at slightly different angles, you can create a variety of different curls and waves, from loose beachy waves, to a more uniformed curl. Using these different angles allows for endless curls, all from one tool.
FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HG003
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SPOTLIGHT
up Power Whether it’s a busy day in the salon, or on set creating this season’s trends, Diva Pro’s complete range of essential electricals offers products to suit every need with price points to match. These hot heroes will put power into styling:
Precious Metals Touch Straightener Macadamia, Argan oil and keratin infused ceramic plates give the hair a sleek and professional finish. The swipe temperature control panel allows you to choose the perfect styling temperature for the hair type you’re working with and the rounded housing makes curling easier than ever. ●
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Ceramic plates infused with Macadamia, Argan oil and keratin Swipe temperature control panel UK/EU Plug 110°C-235°C temperature range Three metre heat proof cord
Precious Metals Auto Curler Create big bouncy curls or luxurious swept waves with the push of a button. The Macadamia, Argan oil and keratin infused barrel reduces frizz and creates deep shine and luminescence. With variable heat settings 80°C-210°C for all hair types and textures, the directional buttons help to easily choose the direction of the curls. ●
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For more information www.rdr.link/HG004
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Macadamia, Argan oil and keratin infused ceramic barrel Digital variable heat Ultra even heat system One hour auto shut off Three metre salon length cord UK/EU plug adaptor
Straight & Smooth Brush Achieve the results of a straightener with the ease of using a brush. This wide paddle brush allows you to cut down styling time by straightening larger sections of hair at once. It includes a high power ionic jet plus Macadamia, Argan oil and keratin infused hot ceramic bristles for a sleek, smooth and shiny result. Alongside digital variable heat (80°C to 210°C), is the unique combination of hot bristles to relax the hair and cool bristles to set it straight.
ELECTRICALS
In For A Trim
Fix up and look sharp with the latest clippers and trimmers from some of the most supercharged brands on the market. With best sellers and premium choices, there’s something here for everyone to get to grips with.
The WAHL Super Taper Cordless features everything you love about the Super Taper with the added benefit of being totally flexible. Powerful, durable and reliable this clipper can be used on or off the cord and features lithium battery technology delivering consistent cutting power throughout the 90 minute run time. Its convenient thumb lever adjusts the taper and texture without changing blades.
The ANDIS Cordless usPRO Fade Li clipper, with its special edition ‘Andis Nation’ design is a favourite due to its lightweight design and powerful rotary motor. Its lithium-ion battery delivers up to two hours of uninterrupted performance and it can also be run with the cord. The high-speed carbon steel blade adjusts from a skin-close size 00000 to size 000 and can be zero-gapped for extra-close cutting.
The ELECTRIC HEAD JOG Titanium Pro-Air Clipper features titanium blades that stay sharp and rust free for longer, plus patented Stay Cool Technology to keep the blades cool to the touch for your client’s safety. The clipper blades have a four stage blade adjustment in increments of 0.3mm and the five speed rotary motor last longer tan traditional DC motors, giving you a dependable clipper fully controlled with a digital display.
Own a piece of WAHL history with this limited edition clipper. Full aluminium metal housing provides a sturdy, robust grip with a weighted feel for precision and control. Its powerful motor generates a higher blade speed with increased torque for more cutting power. It has an all metal adjustable taper lever plus, 70 minutes a run time from just a 70 minute charge.
Ergonomically contoured and lightweight, the ANDIS Supra ZR puts you in total control of every cut. Razor sharp detachable blades can be switched with any of Andis’s UltraEdge or CeramicEdge blades to glide effortlessly through every hair type, wet or dry. With five speed settings and attachments, Supra ZR can be customised to meet every technical demand giving you the freedom to create fades, sharp lines and precision finishing.
The PANASONIC ER-GP81 is light but robust enough for everyday use and has an adjustable dial that alters the cutting length from 0.8 to 2.0mm in 0.3mm increments and can be operated with just one hand while cutting. Panasonic’s advanced sensor technology detects the density of hair and automatically controls the speed of the specially designed titanium X-taper blades, which firmly catch and cut hairs that are often missed, providing a comfortable and constant cut.
BABYLISS PRO has brought together two of its must have grooming tools in an exclusive collection; the Cordless Super Motor Clipper, and the Super Motor Trimmer. Both cordless and with sustained high power and speed for clean, close cutting, they feature long life lithium batteries. The Clipper will run for 120 minutes from a three hour charge, while the Trimmer will run for 85 minutes. The combination of powerful motors and Japanese steel blades, with a super sharp cutting angle, will cut through all hair textures easily.
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WHAT’S NEW THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
Rev-Air’s patented reverse-air technology envelops hair, drying it from root to end using flowing suction and minimal heat. Automatic tension created by the device effortlessly straightens hair while aligning strands and smoothing cuticles for a shiny, frizz free finish. The Rev-Air also comes with a wand holder to keep it neatly out of the way when not in use.
Neäl & Wolf’s summer bundles are back this year to support your retail sales throughout the warmer months. The specially curated bundles of shampoo and conditioner contain natural ingredients, helping to nourish hair and create radiant results. On offer is The Blonde Collection, the Summer Treat Collection and the Shape Duo for men.
R+Co has added to its styling range with Moon Landing Anti-Humidity Spray. The lightweight aerosol spray controls frizz and absorbs instantly leaving a satin finish with flexible hold. It also tames flyaways and is designed to work in the toughest humidity. Shake and spray over hair as a final step to keep styles in tact.
milk_shake Moisture Plus Lotion is a hydrating lotion for dry hair. The concentrated formula gives softness and manageability to dry hair whilst maintaining the moisture balance. Containing organic papaya extract and hyaluronic acid for colour protection with anti-aging, it leaves hair visibly healthy, shiny and soft.
Beach Muk by muk Haircare is a natural sea salt spray which creates a crisp, tousled appearance while adding amazing texture to hair. The weightless formula is not greasy as it is oil and silicone free, and it produces a light matte finish. Simply shake and spray on to damp or dry hair, tousle and leave for ‘beach hair from a bottle’.
Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS+ Long Hair Texture range provides super-lightweight products for dry texture styling that deliver weightless performance with easy handling. The range includes Craft Dry Texture Spray, Soft Dust Volumising Powder, Fresh Texture Dry Shampoo and Soft Texture Dry Conditioner.
To celebrate 15 years of supporting breast cancer charities, ghd have collaborated with tattoo artist David Allen to create an original design based on his acclaimed work with mastectomy scars. £10 from every sale of a ghd gold styler or ghd platinum+ styler from the ink on pink collection goes to Breast Cancer Now.
New premium holistic brand Authentic Beauty Concept contains pure ingredients from carefully selected origins and is free from silicones, parabens, and sulphates. There are five care lines, Glow for coloured hair, Amplify for fine hair, Hydrate for dry hair, Replenish for damaged hair and All for all hair types. An assortment of styling products also sit in the range.
Speed up tomorrow’s colour services today with the new IGORA COLOR10 by Schwarzkopf Professional. Thanks to Amino Acid Carrier Technology, which acts as an express-carrier, colour pigments are able to penetrate the hair shaft faster. IGORA COLOR10 not only develops colour in just 10 minutes, the caring formula provides long-lasting colour retention and up to 100% white hair coverage.
That fresh from the salon look can now last longer with the new Dualsenses Color Revive Color Giving Conditioners and Color Revive Root Retouch Powders from Goldwell. The conditioners come in eight selected shades to intensify salon colour at home, while the retouch powders come in five shades for instant coverage.
Made for
BARBERS by barbers
WHO WE ARE
SHAVE Upgrade the shave experience with products specially designed to refresh and hydrate while ensuring a smooth shave. All shave products contain barley seed extract to help reduce the appearance of razor bumps.
BEARD Customize the perfect beard service with barbering products to maintain lengths from scruff to full grown.
HAIR An arsenal of products to create any style, from the classic to the latest street-style inspiration. Designed with the barber in mind, packaging features 2-in-1 fliptop/spin-off lids and trigger sprayers for nofuss dispensing.
ORIGINAL POMADE
GROOMING SPRAY
Medium Hold + Natural Shine/Water-Soluble For versatile styling. Water based pomade washes out easily and won’t flake. BARBER’S TIPS: The drier the hair, the higher the hold.
Flexible Hold + Lightweight For added height and buildable hold with natural shine. BARBER’S TIPS: Works as a texture spray when applied directly onto the root.
DRY PASTE Medium Hold + Matte Finish For lightweight, gritty texture that won’t flake. BARBER’S TIPS: Provide added texture and volume by cocktailing with MVRCK Grooming Spray.
GROOMING CREAM Easy Hold + Definition For laid-back styles with natural shine. Contains shea butter for soft texture. BARBER’S TIPS: Work through air-dried hair for added texture, definition and overall control.
Expert advice for boosting your barbering business with MVRCK
TAKE HOME 씰 Display MVRCK product at the chair for a conversation starter. 씰 Display the corrugated MVCRK counter display for Take Home revenue. 씰 Feature MVRCK travel sizes at the reservation desk for impulse purchasing.
COMMUN IT Y Instagram tips from our barbers
씰 A strong Instagram presence = new, lifelong clients. 씰 Post techniques, finished looks and services with trending hashtags to increase followers.
씰 Share stories and ways the barbershop gives back to your local community to engage with new guests. 씰 Tag @MVRCKBARBERING for a chance to be featured on our social media page.
TWO AUSTRALIAN HAIR MASTERS WORK THEIR CREATIVE MAGIC BRINGING A NEW BRAND TO THE UK.
OZ
Making its UK debut this summer, lifestyle brand ELEVEN Australia is a fresh approach to
hair and body care. Starting in 2011 with the now iconic Miracle Hair Treatment, ELEVEN Australia has now grown to an award-winning 35 product range for everyone. ELEVEN Australia has teamed up with two industry icons as Co-Creative Directors, celebrity hairstylist and four-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year Joey Scandizzo and Australian photographer of the year Andrew O’Toole. Through their work on set and the salon floor to photoshoots and fashion shows, this dynamic duo recognised a gap in the market for a fresh, fun and self-explanatory range with products that simplify your hair and body care routine by doing exactly what they say they will. Together they helped create ELEVEN Australia. THE HERO PRODUCT ELEVEN’s Co-Creative Director, Joey Scandizzo, is a – MIRACLE HAIR TREATMENT hair stylist and owner of a salon group. Working on the floor, photo shoots and runway shows; he felt the need This nutrient rich cream delivers 11 for a range his staff and clients could easily understand. benefits that hair will LOVE. As for Andrew’s involvement he explains: “Having shot for some of the biggest haircare brands and 1 Add shine, smoothness and softness celebrity stylists over the past 10 years, I have a good understanding of what works for hair and beauty 2 Control frizz and flyaways imagery and what doesn’t. Now to create a vibrant and 3 Moisturise fun brand with ELEVEN Australia is as good as it gets!” 4 Strengthen fragile hair By pairing high performance ingredients with simple, easy to use products, ELEVEN Australia was 5 Prevent split ends born. With active ingredients like avocado oil, silk 6 Detangle and create manageability amino acids and organic argan oil, they work to benefit 7 Protect against heat styling hair. From Hydrating shampoo and conditioner to the “I 8 Enhance natural body want body” range which includes shampoo, conditioner and four key lightweight styling products, there are 9 Repair dry damaged hair products for all hair needs. Styling essentials, include a 10 Protect hair colour with UVA Miracle Hair Treatment, dry shampoo and there’s even and UVB filters hand & body wash. The range is also cruelty-free PETA approved, with 11 Prevent chlorine and sun damage the products calling on high performing natural ingredients for maximum efficiency. From hydrating Australian Desert Lime to antioxidant-rich Australian Quandong Desert Peach to conditioning Avocado Oil and Nourishing Macadamia Oil, ELEVEN Australia also has a selection of vegan and gluten free products so there is truly something for everyone!
11 Messages in a Bottle
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SPOTLIGHT
“Haircare doesn’t have to be complicated, it just needs to work” CO-CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JOEY SCANDIZZO
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SPOTLIGHT
MEET MVRCK, THE UNCOMMON BARBERING BRAND BENDING SOCIETY’S EXPECTATION OF MALE GROOMING.
He’s unconventional, he’s fresh and he means business. From across the pond, MVRCK by MITCH has arrived in the UK with a line up of grooming products rooted in functionality and authenticity. All about pushing the boundaries while maintaining the classic skill and craftsmanship of barbering, MVRCK is created for barbers by barbers and is designed to suit any grooming need with its shave and hair products.
Create any style, from the classics to the latest street-style inspiration. Designed with the barber in mind, packaging features 2-in-1 flip-top/spin off lids and trigger sprayers for no-fuss dispensing.
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GROOMING SPRAY adds texture, volume and hold with natural shine.
ORIGINAL POMADE creates versatile looks with pliable, medium hold for texture with a natural finish.
GROOMING CREAM adds soft definition to air-dried or dry hair for undone looks.
DRY PASTE creates sculpted hairstyles with volume, gritty texture and a matte finish.
Upgrade the shave experience with products specially designed to refresh and hydrate while ensuring a smooth shave. SHAVE CREAM lathers for a smoother closer shave while moisturising the skin.
COOLING AFTERSHAVE refreshes and energises the skin with a masculine scent.
SKIN TONIC leaves the face feeling fresh while awakening the senses.
BEARD OIL softens coarse hair with a blend of shea butter and other hydrating ingredients.
Find out more www.rdr.link/HG005 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 69
BUSINESS
BUSINESS GURU MICHAEL SMITH OF TRISTAN EVES IS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, AND HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS SECRETS OF CREATING AN EXCEPTIONAL BRAND WITH YOU…
Lessons Learnt When you think of a brand, you tend to think of the great consumer classics: Coca Cola, L’Oréal, even Heinz Baked Beans. On the whole what these brands have in common is that they have a strong, single identity and you experience them in a simple way. Your brand is the essence of your business: it sums up who you are and what customers can expect from you. Probably the most famous rebranding disaster was Coca Cola’s in 1985. ‘New Coke’ – with a new look and a new taste – was a disaster and the original was back on the shelves in its place within months. Of course, a hair salon is very different proposition to a can of beans. Not least because the experience of the customer is more multi-layered. Therefore its branding is about authenticity – about allowing your customers to understand immediately who you are, what you do and what you stand for. They have to see and feel your brand at every touch-point. Branding must be reflected in your logo, your website, social media and marketing materials, the look and feel of your salon, the level of services you offer, and your staff. From the moment your customer steps through your door, your brand needs to be evident. What does the front desk look like? Are they greeted by name? Is there somewhere comfortable for them to sit and wait? What do you offer them to read? So, how do you go about creating a great brand? 1) Identify your target audience. Define your ideal customer. Who are they, how old are they, where do they live, where do they shop, what’s their income level? This will direct you for all future decisions as everything comes back to what your customer wants. 2) Know your brand’s purpose. This is crucial. It’s understanding why you have a salon, and what drives and motivates you and your team. And it shouldn’t be money. Making money should be the happy consequence of fulfilling your purpose. 3) Establish your brand’s benefits and qualities. This works hand-in-hand with the first two points and needs some brutal honesty. There’s no point in defining
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your ideal customer as a wealthy woman with high disposable income, who expects a salon experience with the finest colouring and cutting outside Mayfair if you do not have a team with the skills to deliver it. 4) Create a look and feel for your salon. You’ve established your target market, you know your purpose, now create a look and feel that mirrors that. This applies to everything about the salon, from your signage (if you have it – we don’t, as part of our brand quality is discretion, the whisper can be louder than the shout), your logo and your brand colours. What will the salon feel like when you walk in – bright and shiny, clinical and professional, quiet and minimal or soft and homely? What music will you play? How will you serve teas and coffees? 5) Maintain consistency. It’s consistency that adds strength to your brand. It doesn’t mean don’t ever change anything – even Coke managed to introduce new formats like Diet Coke and Coke Zero – but it does mean keeping to your core purpose so that your customers are always clear about who and what you are. Persil washing powder first advertised on TV in 1955 and ever since, although the adverts have developed and evolved over the years, the essential core values of family, the importance of mum and washing whiter still remain. Many years ago I worked on the launch of a new fragrance brand by a large multi-national cosmetics company. It neatly demonstrates how you develop a brand. They knew the segment of the market they were aiming at, they knew exactly their target audience, they knew how they wanted the perfume to make you feel. The packaging was carefully developed to reflect this, the advertising was created and international multi-media campaigns planned. And ironically, just about the last element to be decided was… the actual smell. Have a think about whether your business is a reflection of who you are and where you want to be. By following the steps above, I promise you’ll start to build a brand that has every chance of becoming a classic.
BUSINESS
AWARD-WINNING AND REPUTED BUSINESSMAN PHIL SMITH CONTINUES HIS SERIES WHERE HE BRINGS KNOWLEDGE FROM SUCCESSFUL BRANDS IN OTHER INDUSTRIES AND LOOKS AT WHAT WE CAN LEARN FROM THEM.
Look outside and learn The growth of subscription services has been well documented. Turnover in the subscription market has grown 100% in the last five years. One brand I’ve been following for a while has embraced this business model and in this month’s column, I interview Freddie Garland the owner of Freddie’s Flowers to gain an understanding into how he built his brand. Phil: When you decided to make the leap and run your own business, where did you start when thinking about your brand? Did you work with a team or has it been an organic journey? Freddie: I was working for a fruit and vegetable delivery company when I came up with the idea of a flower subscription company. I’m a personable type of guy and so I started talking face to face with people on the street, and this is where the concept for brand came from. It had to be relatable and social. I’m quite scrappy in my approach so I went back to basics and created the bouquets in my shed before hand-delivering them to each customer, where I would talk face to face about what flowers were included in that week’s delivery. As the business grew, my brothers’ friends and myself would knock on as many doors as possible around Wandsworth and chat to potential customers directly. This process underpinned the whole essence of the brand. I did work with an agency to consolidate my ideas but I knew what the brand stood for before I approached anyone. Phil: What have you found to be the most rewarding and challenging parts of building a brand? Freddie: Today, inside each delivery there is a note that talks you though ‘becoming your inner florist.’ We are offering customers the opportunity to experience a floral workshop in their own home. I truly believe we have created a brand that is different and creative. I regularly receive feedback that the deliveries are life changing and I can honestly say that I did not expect that. Looking after customers is paramount to creating a successful brand. I’m proud of the overall company success, but I feel a
great deal of pride that we have employed thousands of students and creatives in a canvasing role. The nature of the brand is personal and it takes the right personality to knock on doors or stand by our butcher bikes and approach people in the correct manner. Without these guys, the brand would not be what it is today. Phil: How important do you feel social media has been in helping build your brand? Freddie: I started Freddie’s Flowers when I was 26 and I wish I had understood the concept of social media from the word go. It is the shop window of today, and stories allow us to show more personality which is important to the brand. It doesn’t come naturally to me to talk on social media, but I’m beginning to understand that the nature of our brand and journey is of interest to people. Phil: Any pitfalls, those thinking about starting themselves should be aware of? Freddie: In my experience, I had an idea I thought people would like and I spoke to others to sound it out. I received good feedback, but the more I questioned the concept, the more I began to doubt myself so I decided to go with my gut. I handed in my notice, designed a box to hold the flowers and bought a delivery van. What I have learnt is this; keep it simple. This is a really powerful, confident strategy, and it gives people belief in your brand. Freddie has taken what is a very simple idea and created an outstanding brand. His brand was built on face to face communication, just as ours are. He is offering customers an experience. Similar to hairdressing, he is offering something incredibly personal and this is reflected in his brand ethos and communications. I think the subscription concept is an interesting one. It is a growing business model that salons could be adopting. Not necessarily just with products but services. The subscription market is set to be worth over £1 billion by 2022 and made me think about the possibilities my salon could be offering in the future.
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JULIE ELDRETT
Do Your Team ‘Buy In’ and ‘Fit In’? As an employer it’s important to understand that without a team we can trust and delegate to, the potential for your salon is always going to be limited to how much stress you can deal with before you either explode or give up altogether! I define a team as a group of people who totally understand and buy into ‘The Story Of Your Brand’ because it shows them where they can fit in and what is expected of them. If they buy in, fit in and perform to expectations they feel valued and will be far more likely to consistently generate the word of mouth publicity that’s so vital for your business. If they don’t buy in, fit in or perform to expectations you’ve got literally no chance of creating long term sustainable success in your salon. So please understand the success of your team is totally interlinked with how clear your brand story is and how passionate you are about delivering it. If you’ve read my book, ‘The Salon Owners Bible’ you’ll know about the power of having a ‘Big Why’. Remember, a ‘Big Why’ is a brand story. It’s the reason ‘Why’ both customers and team members will choose your salon. With a ‘Big Why’ in place you can create a ‘Customer Promise’ for your team to deliver to your customers. With a ‘Big Why’ and a ‘Customer Promise’ to deliver it then becomes easy for you to create simple guidelines to act as a track for everything to run along. For those of you who know me you will recognise my ‘Customer Promise’ was … “We treat every customer as a welcomed guest” and my guidelines were: ● We welcome customers using their name. ● We serve them as our guests while they are with us. ● We make sure they feel special ● We invite them again before they leave. Here is a question for you…based on the above: What would your simple guidelines look like? If you can, take some time and write down your thoughts right now while it’s fresh in your mind. Why? Because this will help you once you have your story to build on your customer promise and some guidelines however, you also need some standards in place. Let me share with you what my standards were, even though a bit ambitious we achieved them. “Our promise has to be delivered 100% of the time to 100% of our customers by 100% of our team.”
Standards are very important because to measure anything accurately you need something to compare it against. You need standards of behaviour, standards of service and standards of performance so you can constantly measure your production to see what can be improved. The standards must come from you…it’s ‘Your Brand Story’ after all, but you can and should get your team involved in the “WHAT” of consistently delivering your standards. This normally involves creating systems which are essential if you are ever going to achieve consistency and this is vital because without consistency there’ll never be confidence, trust and connection which by now you will know how important they are. Standards + Systems + Consistency + Confidence = TRUST Trust is the top reason any customer will return to any business! Look out for my September’s article where I will help you put all this together by sharing my concept that made it easy for me and my team. However, if you’d prefer to hear me talk about all this and more, plus enjoy the chance to ask questions and get customised advice that fits your particular needs, you might like to join Steve Hilliard and myself for the day, on Monday 14th October at Lacey’s in Theale near Reading. You should really consider coming; ● If you’re struggling with team members attitude problems or getting your stylists to grow their columns. ● If you’re under constant pressure to pay your bills or find new customers. ● If you feel trapped on your salon floor as a busy stylist with a paid audience. Tickets cost £67 and to make the decision to attend easy for you Steve and I are giving you a 100% money back guarantee... PLUS for a limited time you get TWO TICKETS FOR THE PRICE OF ONE... so you can bring someone to support you. For full details and to buy your ‘two for the price of one’ tickets please go to my website www.julieeldrettconsulting.com
Tel: 0797 122 6987
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WELLA PROFESSIONALS The Perfect Colour Choice Who isn’t excited by the creative freedom of colour? But you need to choose the ideal tones to really create the wow factor. This confidence building course will help you to develop an eye for colour, and hone your colour selection. You will understand tone and depth to make the right colour choices, take part in simple step by steps to choose colour, gain the ability to discuss colour with clients plus use your colour skills to grow your column. 7th August, London Call, 0203 650 4700.
ALAN HOWARD Short Hair Cutting This one day course is designed to give you the confidence to master short hair cutting so that you can then create technically stunning short hair looks. You’ll firstly concentrate on the fundamentals of head shape, directional sectioning, moving and static guidelines, over direction, finger angle and elevation so that you can then add your creativity and produce three fabulous short hair looks. 12th August, Wolverhampton Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk/education
HAIRFLAIR PRO Permage with Jack Howard The new generation perm is set to be the next big hair service and salons who capitalise on demand can grow their profit margin. Global BlondMe ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional, Jack Howard, will teach his technique ‘Permage’, a dual perm and colour service with the hair lightened for face-framing effects. You can choose to simply perm with the option to add colour during the process if they want to. 31st July, London Book online at, https://bookwhen.com/hairflair
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Blonde Certification Would you like to become certified as a blonde specialist and gain an understanding of the key principles to achieving the perfect blonde results every time? Then this course is for you. Blonde Certification will give you the skills to ensure your clients get the perfect shade for them and you’ll master the art of creative toning. Learn new techniques to provide perfectly even results from roots to tip and gain valuable knowledge and tips to meet the expectations of your clients. 21st August, London Email, coursesuk@loreal.com
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Intermediate Cutting Inspirations If you are a hairdresser just starting out on the salon floor and in search of your own individual style, then this course is designed for you. The EDit team members are personally hand selected for their unique talent, style and passion for education. So if you are eager to learn, the EDit team are full of energy, inspiration and new ideas to share. 30th August, London Email, coursesuk@loreal.com
GHD The Curve Session with ghd Creative Artist Patrick Wilson The master of gorgeous, ‘grammable’ hair, Patrick has created red-carpet looks for Cindy Crawford, Mollie King and Jade Thirlwall and is renowned for his glam, pristine waves. Find out how to create that perfect ‘Wilson wave’ with a seminar that will guide you through every step of styling with tongs and wands, with tips, tricks and techniques for laidback looks, big bouncy curls – and everything in between. 12th August, Edinburgh Email, seminars@ghdhair.com
JOICO Lumishine Colour Essentials This morning session course will provide a thorough understanding of the fantastic JOICO Lumishine Colour range. This includes hair structure, the colour wheel, peroxide choice, achieving the correct target shade, formulating and advanced colour correction. Everything you need to know to be an expert colourist with JOICO Lumishine Colour. 19th August, Crewe Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk/education GOLDWELL Elumen Colour Mastery Discover how to amaze your clients with dazzling shine, incredible durability and evenness of ammonia-free permanent colour. Increase your salon menu with premium ELUMEN services for your most demanding salon clients. 23rd July, London Call, 0203 520 1200
MATRIX Cutting Foundations This two day cutting course is delivered in an easy step-by-step approach building in demonstration with coaching by a Matrix CRAFT Cutting Educator. The aim is to teach you six haircuts, one length, bob, graduation, round layer, asymmetric and advanced layer. After the course, an E-Learning program will assist you to continue perfecting your knowledge techniques. 12th August, Stockport Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk/education ALFA ITALIA Evolution of Cutting Do your clients want volume without any layers? Or do they have so much hair creating a great shape on a bob seems to take all day? This course introduces the concept of the revolutionary Evo-layering scissors. You will also use the Soft Cut scissor, perfect for reducing weight and blending sections together. You’ll create three styles including a one length volumising cut, a shape defining bob and a perfectly blended short cut. 5th August, Stockport Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk/education
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Progressive Styling On this one day styling seminar you will work with an award-winning hairdresser Kevin Kahan to learn how to play with different styles using your design abilities and challenge yourself to go beyond your creative boundaries. Learn all there is to know about the Schwarzkopf OSIS and Session styling range and inspire your customers and show them the full range of the latest inspiring style trends. 22nd July, Manchester Email, ASKacademy@henkel.com WELLA PROFESSIONALS Insta Waves and Braids Led by a talented Guest Artist, this course will help to focus your styling skills leaving you ready to tackle wedding, prom and party seasons head on. You’ll learn to master S bends, vintage waves, beachy waves and as seen on the red carpet. Plus become familiar with all the most popular braids. Before the day is out you’ll have created a stunning client friendly look from start to finish under the guidance of the Guest Artist. 23rd July, Manchester Call, 0161 834 2645
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