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MARCH 2020
Professional MARCH 2020
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M A RCH 2 0 2 0
ISSUE 03
From platinum to bronde and everything in between MARCH 2020
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Do ‘gentlemen prefer blondes’? Do ‘blondes have more fun’? Questions that may never be answered and may probably be seen as inappropriate by some nowadays, but there is one thing for sure – blondes definitely have more colour options than ever before! From pure platinum and Nordic shades through to the darker, easy, more lived-in brondes – there are so many trending shades of blonde right now, giving your clients with every skin tone and every hair colour the chance to lighten up. So many trending shades, so many of which emanate from food inspired hair trends. In our last Colour Special we looked at colours inspired by your kitchen spice rack and now in this issue, working on The Book of Blonde (page 18 on) – food once again plays a delicious role in getting the creative colour juices flowing. We are seeing buttery blondes, wheat blondes, caramel blondes even ‘lightly toasted’ blondes – no wonder clients are hungry for blonde hair. Channelled by celebrities from Olivia Coleman’s new icy blonde crop and Sharon Osbourne’s platinum transformation through to the honeyed highlights of Jennifer Lopez, the sandy tones of Reese Witherspoon and the sunkissed, healthy hues of Gigi Hadid, there is a take on blonde for every client who walks through your salon door. Blonde is most definitely good for business!
COVER: Marc Antoni
Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk
REGULARS
Assistant Editor
6
Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager
NEWS Industry goings on
Ruth Williams
PEOPLE
Digital Assistant
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Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer Donna Booth
HOOKER & YOUNG With Antoinette Beenders
Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
67 SPOTLIGHT ON Goldwell
FASHION
BUSINESS
30 ON TREND
70 Alan Simpson
COLLECTIONS
SPECIALS
71 Michael Smith 72 Robert Masciave 73 Darren Fowler
15 THE SALON CHAMPION With Andrew Barton
56 SCISSOR SMART Scissor round-up
75 Training
THE BOOK OF BLONDE
PRODUCTS
SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE
18 ZOË IRWIN Glaze talking
63 SPOTLIGHT ON JOICO
19 THE BOOK OF BLONDE Blonde trend round-up
64 SPOTLIGHT ON Fudge Professional
23 COLOUR CLOSE-UP with Revlon Professional
66 SPOTLIGHT ON Tangle Teezer
Group Production Manager Carol Padgett
26 COLOUR STEP BY STEP with TIGI
60 What’s New
74 GREEN QUEEN KARINE
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2020 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
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July 18 - June 19
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Great Lengths voted Best Hair Extensions at the Marie Claire Hair Awards for the second year in a row for their new GL Mini Strands.
THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
Fudge The Rules Fudge Professional launches new styling range with edgy London event Fudge Professional recently hosted an event for its new styling range relaunch. On the night guests were treated to 15 minutes of fame styling sessions with Fudge Global Brand Ambassador Jonathan Andrew who was on hand to talk the range’s restyle and the four new products: Blow Dry Aqua Primer, Aqua Shine Serum, Curl Revolution Mist and Matte Hed Mouldable. The venue also featured a social media photo booth space with the brand campaign’s
tagline #FudgeTheRules – the perfect opportunity for guests to create their own content. A Spin2Win Wheel game offered exclusive prizes such as hair colour appointments with Tracey Hayes, styling appointments with Jonathan Andrew, products and more. The vibe was set with Sink the Pink on the decks and Metal Morphosis providing ear piercings. The spirit of the launch totally embodied Fudge Professional’s cool but edgy brand personality. “The relaunched styling collection makes navigating the range more logical; hold factors are simplified from 1 to 10 on the packs, cult favourites like Shaper are now in easy salon friendly flip-open lids and latest innovations feature high performance properties, innovative textures and ground-breaking ingredients,” commented Fudge Professional Global Brand Ambassador Jonathan Andrew.
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL TURNS 40 THE SALON GROUP CELEBRATES 40 YEARS OF HAIR WITH ANNUAL CONGRESS AND AWARDS Celebrating their 40th year in the hairdressing industry, Scotland’s largest salon group, Rainbow Room International came together for their Annual Congress at the luxurious Airth Castle Hotel and Spa. Team members from Rainbow Room International’s 12 hair and beauty salons arrived for a day of inspirational presentations, hair shows and an awards ceremony packed with recognition and rewards. Alan Stewart, owner and founder or Rainbow Room International opened the day and welcomed everyone to the congress, congratulating all team members for thir hard work and dedication as they reached their 40th Anniversary. Alan spoke about Rainbow Room International’s vision for client retention and what all the salon teams can do to ensure their clients become lifelong clients. After a day of creative presentations from Schwarzkopf Professional and the Rainbow Room International Artistic Directors, guests came together for the RRI Congress Awards. The awards included Assistant of the Year and Fantastic Hairdresser of the Year through to the sought after Salon Team of the Year award. This year
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the Salon of the Year Award went to the team at Great Western Road, as well as Diana Carson from the Uddingston salon picking up three awards on the night. With the awards over and everyone happy, it was time for the party to begin with the team dancing the night away. A delighted Alan and Linda Stewart said; “We’d like to thank each and every one of you for a successful year and your passion and dedication to Rainbow Room. Everyone is special and has the abilitiy to constantly improve and develop and is why we have been a part of the hairdressing industry for 40 years. Here’s to another fantastic year for the Rainbow Room International brand.”
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Clubstar take on London Fashion Week THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING’S CLUBSTAR ART TEAM GOT TO WORK BACKSTAGE AT LONDON FASHION WEEK The ClubStar Art Team got their year off to an exciting start, with the opportunity to work backstage at London Fashion Week. Project Leader, Karolina Saunders, arranged for the team to assist lead stylist, Sophie Springett from TONI&GUY, at the Ones To Watch show. The show, sponsored by Label.M, featured the work of three emerging designers – Manon Planche, Saint Ego and Young n Sang – each with their own hair look. Working alongside Sophie and the Label.M team, the ClubStar members got to help create looks for both male and female models. Not only did they learn essential session styling skills, but also the importance of teamwork, backstage etiquette and responding to a brief. Team member Sam Arnold says: “My dream of working at London Fashion Week has become a reality. It was everything I could dream and more – I’m so grateful for the opportunity.” Team Leader Karoliina Saunders says: “Everyone in the team was super excited about the opportunity, especially when they got to see their work on the catwalk at fashion’s most prestigious event. We cannot thank Label.M and especially Cos Sakkas enough for making this amazing experience happen and allowing us to join the session team.”
Proxima Nova Bold
Introducing EPA CHRIS FOSTER LAUNCHES ULTIMATE TRAINING PROGRAMME ELITE PROFILE ACADEMY
Known for his innovative approach to online training for barbers, Chris Foster has taken this one step further and devised an online programme designed to help raise your personal profile in the industry. Elite Profile Academy is the ultimate training programme for hairdressers looking to create a name for themselves in the industry and locally for their business. EPA is an online resource that provides quality content – a connected community for anyone interested in starting and building an iconic hair industry career. It starts with the premise that you have a good standard of technical skills and have the years of experience to call upon to become the next big hairdressing icon! All content is accessible online via webinars, workbooks and course content, covering everything from how to enter awards successfully, to creating a PR profile for yourself locally and within the industry as well as social media tips, tricks and content calendars. While this may seem daunting, everything has been broken down into simple steps – and Chris has even written email templates and social media posts for you! “I am so excited about the launch of Elite Profile Academy as I feel it’s something the industry has been crying out for,” says Chris. “EPA has been a labour of love for me for the past 12 months, and I’m looking forward to sharing the knowledge I have from building up my own profile over the past 25 years, as well as helping others avoid the mistakes I made first time round!”
ASK THE EXPERT NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard outlines new employment laws that salons need to be aware of. Have bereaved parents been given new rights? Yes. From April 2020 ‘Jack’s Law’ will come into force. This gives two weeks’ paid bereavement leave to parents in the UK who lose a child under the age of 18 or who suffer a stillbirth from 24 weeks of pregnancy. They will be able to take bereavement leave as a single block of two weeks or as two separate blocks of one week during the first year after the death. All employees will have this right, irrespective of how long they have worked for you. What’s happening with the NMW in 2020? Make sure you’re prepared for increases in the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage. You must ensure you are paying your employees and apprentices the correct amount or you may face a large fine and public naming and shaming by the government. The new rates from April 2020 are: NLW (over-25s): £8.72 PH NMW (age 21-24): £8.20 PH NMW (age 18-20): £6.45 PH NMW (age 16-17): £4.55 PH Apprentices £4.15 PH Remember that apprentices over the age of 19 in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the age-appropriate NMW or NLW. Also – keep a note of staff birthdays, as individual employees may move into a higher pay bracket during the year.NHBF Members can download a free in-depth guide to the National Minimum Wage: nhbf.co.uk/nmw-guide What else is changing? From April 2020, a new employee must be given a written statement that includes all the terms and conditions of their job on the first day of their employment. This is a change from the current law which says you must do this within two months. The NHBF’s contracts and staff handbooks which are free to Members (nhbf.co.uk/contracts) include all the necessary terms and conditions. It’s good practice to send out the contract for signing with the offer letter in advance of day one. Will Brexit change anything? Salons will still have to comply with GDPR when dealing with their employees’ personal data (nhbf.co.uk/gdpready) and it is highly unlikely that employees will lose any of their current employee rights (nhbf.co.uk/employeerights).
The NHBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhbf.co.uk
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PEOPLE
H O O K ER A N D YO U N G
Antoinette Beenders Antoinette Beenders is not only a hairdressing icon, but a strong business woman who, as Vice President Of Global Professional Artistry for Aveda, has broken the mould and set new standards of what can be achieved in the world of hairdressing. A true inspiration to many and showing no signs of stopping, we jumped at the chance to sit down with the very lovley Antoinette during her time in London. Gary: Let’s start at the beginning. How and why did you get into hairdressing? Antoinette: Well it’s a bit of a long story, but I’ll take you through it! I started hairdressing in the Netherlands when I was 14, working as a Saturday girl in a salon. They very quickly got me involved with their model nights, which made me realise I wanted to be a hairdresser – although my dad was a photographer and I did my first shoot with him when I was 12 after I taught myself braiding! I worked on Saturdays up until the age of 16, when I started a course where you do one day a week at school and four in the salon. The place where I was working was very proactive in the industry and one day we went to a Trevor Sorbie seminar. Watching them at work, I realised it was what I wanted to do. I asked the people who arranged the seminar how I could get an interview at the salon and was given a name. I ended up going over to London when I was 18 – bearing in mind I spoke no English at this point! Of course, I got a letter saying thanks but no
thanks – but when I put my mind to something, I have to do it. I decided that if I wanted to work for Trevor, I had to live in England, so I moved when I was 19. I arrived at the airport with two bags of luggage and an invite to stay with a friend’s brother in Putney – I’d never even met him, and I can’t believe my parents let me go! I ended up working at a small salon for six months and they were really into photoshoots, which was great for me as I’ve been in the studio since I was two years old with my dad. Six months later, I saw an advert for a position at Trevor Sorbie and thought I had to try again. When I got there, Trevor said, “I’ve seen you here before” and I said, “Yeah and this time I’m not leaving!”. After that he took me on – I went in as a junior into the academy and it was such great training. I was completely retrained and told that if I passed the test after a month, I could stay – and if I didn’t, I had to go back to Holland and they wouldn’t pay me! I trained so hard, because I’d been trained the French way, which is completely different to how it is in England. After a month, they said I wasn’t ready for the test, but
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PEOPLE
they were going to keep me because I was a hard worker. Trevor put me in the salon as an assistant, and after six months I passed the test and became his personal assistant. I travelled everywhere in the world with him and became a teacher myself, then his Art Director for five years. In 1995, I won Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year and in 1996 and 1997 I won London. Gary: What was it like when you were working with Eugene, Sally and Angelo? Were you all there together? Antoinette: We actually weren’t all there together; Vivienne Mackinder was first, then it was Eugene, and when he left I became Art Director. Sally was my assistant and then she became Art Director. Angelo joined towards the end of my time there and became Art Director when Sally left. Gary: What led to you leaving the salon? Antoinette: I’d been with Trevor for ten years and decided it was time for me to branch out. Aveda was coming to the UK and they’d seen my name in the trade press because I’d been winning awards. The salon PR we had at the time was also looking after Aveda and when they launched in the UK in 1997, they needed someone to front it. It sounded great so I went for it. We opened in Harvey Nichols and, in the first year we took £1million – it was unbelievable. We grew out of the building and had to move. Then the President of Aveda at the time asked me to be their Creative Director. I was living in London for three weeks and America for three, and ended up running the entire creative department – not just hair. I had to learn a whole new role. Gary: How did you find the transition from hairdresser to helping run a company? Antoinette: I had to learn along the way and just get on with it – basically, I had to learn a whole new language! I wanted to do it though and, last year, I became Vice President of Global Professional Artistry and moved from New York to the headquarters in Minneapolis. Gary: Is that where you are now? Antoinette: Yes, and I absolutely love it, although it took me a while to get used to it. After 14 years, I decided I wanted to do a bit more artistry and wanted to be back with the hairdressers. I made that decision because I missed our industry. I didn’t do general hair shows – it was all Aveda shows – but now I’m all over the place and I love it. Michael: How often do you come back to the UK? Antoinette: It depends really – I’ve been back twice in two weeks now, but before that my last time here was March, so probably three or four times a year.
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Michael: Does your role now feel like more pressure and responsibility than back in the day working in the salon with Trevor? Antoinette: It’s a different responsibility. I consider my work now to be looking after the hairdressers who work with the brand; I’m the link between them. It’s a beautiful sweet spot where I know both sides. I know what they need and what we need; I’m the nice little bridge as I’ve been in both worlds. Michael: You’re the perfect person to be in that role because you can see it from both sides. Antoinette: I think one of the things that I can really offer to our industry now is younger people to help with companies. I see what’s gone on in the industry and I can offer a lot in that area as I know what a hairdresser is worth to a company. There’s a lot of disrespect towards hairdressers and I want to do my bit to change that. Gary: Did you ever find it hard to get respect on the other side, being a former hairdresser? Antoinette: It did take a while. When I became Creative Director, the creatives weren’t very respectful – but when you’re a Senior Creative Director, you get a lot of respect because you’re responsible for the image of the brand. But don’t forget, Aveda was built by a hairdresser. It has always been about lots of people, not just one and in the 22 years I’ve been here, I’ve seen it grow. I’m proud to work for Aveda and I’m proud to go to the places where the ingredients in our products have been made and created. There are lots of natural brands now, but Aveda is the most innovative when it comes to our ingredients and maintaining high performance. Michael: Is there still room for more growth for you do you think? Where do you see your future within the corporation? Antoinette: I’ve never really laid out my career; I kind of grow into a role without really realising! I’m doing work on building our international audience; I like meeting people and being at the beginning of something and seeing it develop. Michael: You’re seeing where the role takes you , rather than steering it yourself? Antoinette: I don’t want the pressure or the stress; I just go where I go! Michael: What’s your home life like? Your role now seems so busy! What do you do for down time? Antoinette: Well I live in the middle of a forest on a lake! This month I’ve probably only been there for about 12 hours but, we’re going home next week and I’ll be there the whole week. I’ve also decided to work a little less so I’ll take December off. I mean, what a
luxury for hairdressers to take December off! I can’t quite believe I can do it, but I’ve worked for it. I’m 53 now and I’m proud! I’ve seen a lot, I’ve done a lot and I’ve worked a lot – and I love it. I heard someone say that, ‘as you get older you prepare the youth for their journey’ and it really stuck with me. I really feel like I want to help the next generation. I’ve worked a lot and I’ve given up a lot of personal things to do what I do today, like starting a family. I miss all my family events and I’ve never been to a wedding, so I’ve missed a lot. But I have got an insanely understandable husband and it’s time now I think to start developing another side of me. All I know is hair and shows and pictures, but I think life is bigger than that. Michael: Do you feel any responsibility to shape the future of hairdressing? Everything has changed since we started out and is continuing to change, but I think people like you have embedded yourself in hair history. Do you feel like you need to help influence the next generation? Antoinette: It’s hard because they’re so different. I came from the generation where you work really hard to get somewhere, but now that’s changed with social media. I also feel like the taste level and what I see around me has changed a lot. I’m definitely appreciative of the past and I feel it’s my duty to help the future. Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda, passed away five years ago, and I made a promise to him to look after his brand. Gary: Any signs of slowing down? Antoinette: Me? Not yet! The beautiful thing is once you’ve done the stage bits, I don’t feel the need anymore. Your perspective changes. Michael: You’ve done so much in your career up to date – how would you want people to think of you? Antoinette: I’d want them to think of me as a female that made a difference in the world of hairdressing. Only 12% of Creative Directors in the world are female. I’ve worked so hard but where are all the girls?! Gary: What obstacles do you think are in the way? Antoinette: I can’t even tell you, but you need to be pretty strong as a character and as a woman. I’m so proud of Sally – when she won British Hairdresser of the Year, I cried! It was truly deserved. Talented, passionate and driven, it really is no wonder that Antoinette has achieved such greatness within her life and career. Throwing herself into a world which was far from where it all started and proving that a determination to succeed and a belief in yourself will give you all that is required to make it to the top. Her passion for our industry is abuntantly clear and everything that she does is an extension of her love of hair. A true hairdressing icon. We salute you Antoinette Beenders.
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Salon
The
Whether it’s a subtle refresh or a dramatic colour change, clients are more excited than ever about using hair colour to transform how they look and feel about themselves. With ‘Balayage’ being the most googled hair term and clients more aware than ever of colour techniques and trends, it’s time for stylists to consider their colour business and how it can increase their turnover and therefore lifestyle and income. The conversation around lifestyle and income should not be shied away from, each stylist has ambitions and aspirations and for me it’s key that my team can see clearly what they can do to achieve these goals. As the franchisee of Headmasters Mayfair, I’m acutely aware of how hair colour services make a huge impact to the profitability of my business. As a group approximately 37% of clients visiting Headmasters salons colour their hair. Having a strong focus on promoting colour services is helping Headmasters to achieve its overall target to increase colour sales by 5% YTD. The current Headmasters collection is all about real women wearing beautiful, fashionable, confidence boosting hair colour. We’ve found clients buy into colour services they can relate to, so making them front and centre of all marketing materials is key. Ensuring that every client receives information on how they can enhance their features, skin tone and natural texture is a must. In industry surveys over 53% of clients claim they did not receive advice about other services that could improve their hair. This is
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Andrew Barton, Creative & Communications Director at Headmasters has made it is his mission to champion the salon-based hairdresser, as the backbone of the British Hairdressing Industry. As the industry reports a skills shortage and many salons are challenged to fill vacancies it’s vital that the success of the stylist behind the chair is celebrated. In this regular feature exclusively for Professional Hairdresser Andrew spotlights how colour services are an essential part of the stylist’s success. alarming as I’m sure that we all think we do good consultations in the salon, but the evidence is that we are often missing client’s needs. Imagine what an increase of five colour services per week could do. As the high street and our clients shopping habits are changing, personalisation is key and totally achievable through consistent care, bespoke advice about your clients hair, professional expertise and great customer service.
To lift colour sales try focusing on: ● Setting colour targets ● Awarding and recognising colour success ● Appointing team Colour Leads ● Animating colour services in the salon ● Focus marketing activity on colour ● Imagery in salon ● Centre team meetings around colour ● Host a colour event for clients and their friends
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Use colour mood boards to illustrate colour shades and techniques to help make colour visual in the salon Mix colour in front of clients and discuss the science and techniques behind the look Pledge to ensure each client receives your professional advice about hair colour
Be realistic about colour sales targets, small incremental increases over 12 months will achieve massive results. Digest the data from colour services ie frequency of client visits and focus on how can you encourage more frequency. I’m a great believer in the power of re-booking, so always invite clients to book their next appointment with you at their current appointment, especially when they are leaving the salon with a beautiful new colour. Elevate your team’s expertise and work closely with your chosen colour manufacturer to build on training and education. At Headmasters we have the largest number of L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Experts with over a hundred in the salon group. And always remember to update your client’s record with the details of their last colour. A client’s colour should always be evolving through our consultations, if we keep doing the same colour service every time clients can become disinterested, so a little refresh even if it’s just adding a couple of lighter or darker pieces around the face or a new toner can make a massive difference. Remember clients want personalisation, so keep their colour service bespoke to them and see your colour business grow.
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THE BOOK OF BLONDE
I
admit it, I’m an addict – a colour glazing addict to be precise. Glazing (also known as toning), is an essential part of my work as a colourist and I can’t understand why anyone wouldn’t want to glaze pre-lightened hair – glazing is like the icing on a cake, and it’s my absolute obsession. When Wella Professionals asked me to create a glazing menu and shoot a campaign for them it was such a good fit because it’s what I do all the time, and glazing is a big business opportunity. I was amazed by a recent survey by Fragrance Direct that ‘What is hair toner?’ was the most Googled beauty search in the UK – that’s mad when you think of all the things people could have Googled! This shows there is interest, which is brilliant, but also that hairdressers can do a better job explaining what it is and making much more of these types of services in-salon. Not only does glazing make my role as a colourist way more exciting, it’s a way of making lightened hair look glossier and more chic and it adds shine and makes hair look healthier too. It’s all about hair colour matching skin tone and eye colour and that’s what glazing allows hairdressers to do – it creates an incredible bespoke colour for clients, one that lightening alone won’t do.
Glaze-y Fantayzee Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals UK Colour Trend Expert shares why she’s delighted to front Wella Professional’s latest campaign on glazing and why it’s a massive opportunity for hairdressers to create a lot more excitement around it.
Different shades When I created the glazing menu for Wella Professionals as part of my role as their UK Colour Trend Expert, I spent ages playing with different shades from Illumina Color to come up with the right glazes. The palette you can play with is so huge – it makes being a colourist so much fun when it’s not just about reaching for the same glaze that you use for everyone. When discussing glazing I always talk to my clients in consumer-friendly language and I reference beauty terms a lot. For example, I call it glazing and not toning because it’s just not that relatable for my clients. Words like neutralise and depositing tone just scare people off and create ambiguity, but my clients totally get what a glaze is and how, different types of glazes create different results. Think of an eyeshadow palette around a certain colour theme and how beautiful that looks – that’s how I describe my glazes. I’m a massive fan of creating menus and mood-boards, and this builds interest for clients. I name the glazes too – for example my AW19 palette for Wella Professionals had
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glazes like Maple, Sienna, Ochre and Terracotta, and my SS20 for Illumina Color has glazes like Sienna Sand, Pampelonne Peach and Rose Earth. They are way more exciting than talking about 10/1 or 9/59. There’s this belief that balayage has killed the salon business but that’s not the case with many of the colourists I have spoken to as well as myself. Because I love glazing so much, and get my clients addicted to it as well, it has opened up the opportunity to ensure they come back every six to eight weeks. Remember that most beauty treatments don’t last six months – for example nails, eyebrows, lashes, waxing or facials, so why do people think a colour should last six months? Colour needs refreshing regularly and it’s our responsibility to educate our clients about why they need to come to see us every six to eight weeks. I recommend to invest time in the initial client appointment – for example I spend time doing one of my favourite techniques – whether it’s Palm Painting (the original French balayage), baby lights or highlights – and then I have a fantastic base to work with over the months ahead. I can change their glazes depending on the season and adjust it as their skin tone, and wardrobe changes throughout the year. I also add services in when they come back in six weeks later – for example I do a strengthening Wellaplex service along with the glaze – so they get strength and gloss in one appointment.
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Here’s my top tips for wannabe glazing addicts… 씰 Think about what you call ‘toning’ – I find glazing, or colour glossing to be much more consumer friendly. When explaining what glazing is use language your client will understand – avoid hairdresser jargon. Tap into beauty language and trends – for example a lot of women will have an illuminating highlighting palette in their make-up bag so that’s a great way to show how glazing illuminates hair. Reference products they might know, and even have them on your station so you can show them the effect they give. Customise glazes for your clients in a way that they can’t get them anywhere else – this not only highlights your expertise as a hairdresser but it means they have something you have created for them, that you can keep tweaking. Glazes are not just for blondes – I glaze a lot of textured hair after lightening, and customised glazes on reds and brunettes using products like Ilumina Color are truly stunning.
Glazing is a really fantastic way to build your colour business and create more excitement around a colouring service. It not only will make your clients’ hair look premium and expensive, you’ll be demonstrating your expertise as a professional and giving your clients something they can’t get anywhere else. I hope you become a glazing addict too.
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Hooker & Young
TOP of the TRENDS As told by Robert Eaton, Wella Technical Director UK & Ireland. 1. Colour Placement Clever and well thought out colour placement is essential for all looks this year, whether it is face framing highlights or smoothing and super shining glossing services. These all complement this season’s strongest haircuts and styles.
Rob Eaton
Tracey Devine-Smith for ASP BLONDE Predictions Tracey Devine-Smith, ASP Global Ambassador, predicts the top three blonde trends we’ll be seeing this season.
Heavy sunkissed balayage. Where the paint effect is taken super high in peaks to get a full on balayage with high saturation. Dense babylights. Think super-fine micro lights but packed in to create a beautiful blend.
the book of BLONDE As we head into warmer months, balayage, babylights and blonding services start to become popular with clients looking to go lighter for the summer. So we got together with some of the top colourists in the business to get their take on blonde in Spring/Summer 2020. Trends, techniques and things to remember, it’s all here in our Book of Blonde.
Extra tips Keep a great silver shampoo on hand. Tone regularly for maximum effect. Mix blonde tones for a great multi tonal summer blonde.
Cult
Root smudge over full head bleach. This is a big trend with young ladies right now that want that full blonde experience but with a hint of a mushroom, earthy root.
2. Seamless Blending This trend will continue to be so important, enabling clients to have the versatility to allow their hair to evolve from one colour to the next with ease. 3. Lived-in Tone After several seasons of vivid colours, we have definitely moved more towards expensive and expertly applied and blended colour choices. With blondes being toned with soft pinks, peaches, violets and greys alongside beige and woody, heather infused blondes. There are so many blonde tones and micro trends around, there really is a blonde for everyone! Any extra blonding tips? My top tips would be to pay attention to detail when creating the perfect blonde, we are very lucky to have incredible products now enabling us to create the perfect lift. It is all about perfecting and toning hair to create the most polished and delicate blonde tones. We always follow any lightening service with a toning technique that is bespoke to each look.
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Zoe Irwin KAM
Id HAIR
My most recent palette for SS20 has a blonde focus and the two techniques I created for Wella Professionals - Glazing Contour and Glazing Balayage – combine my love of Palm Painting, which is the traditional French way to Balayage hair – and my glazing palette. To get the right blonde, for me it’s always about matching skintone – I know there are always trends, but they are not going to suit everyone, so having a palette of glazes that can be used for different skintones gives so much flexibility. The way a glaze can pick up and enhance blonde pre-lightened hair is so stunning, and my clients are obsessed with the youthful effects achieved using my favourite glazing product Illumina Color.
Warren Boodaghian HOB
Up your ADDITIONAL SERVICES With Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals UK Colour Trend Expert.
Marc Antoni Talking TECHNIQUES Warren Boodaghian, Head of Technical at HOB Academy, looks at the top three techniques for blondes for SS20. With the 100th birthday of Bauhaus, strong geometric techniques will dominate shorter mid-length haircuts, to create visual balance and create a statement. Work with a panelled section to the focal area, use the same tonal quality but change the level. This gives you a harmonious colour result which is pleasing to the eye. 50/50 hair colour was huge in the late 90s/early 2000s when the likes of Gwen Stefani and Christina Aguilera were brave enough to wear this trend, but it dates back even further to late 70s/early 80s. Blondie rocked it and wore it with conviction. This hair trend so far has been worn very bold but it can be worn more simplistic and classic. Work with the hair movement and the shape of the head, so create curved sections for your application as this will soften the technique. Texture Lights is the must-use colour technique for Summer 2020. We are all growing tired of balayage and we need to move our clients away from this application of colour. Texture Lights is the perfect blend of highlights and freehand that accentuates the facial canvas and highlights the areas of the face, such as the cheekbones and eye colour. It works best on hair with natural movement and can work with lighter brunettes, coppers and blondes.
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The THREE C’s By Carolyn Newman, International Colour Expert. When discussing with your clients their blonde requests please always think: Colour, Condition and Continuation. Colour: Tone and shade, contrast or blend – what tone will suit them and their existing hair colour and style, why do they want to be blonde and do they want their finished result to be natural, visible or dramatic.
Continuation: Maintenance and cost – Talk honestly with your client on realistically how often they can come and maintain their blonde and what can they afford. Being blonde is not one hit, it is an ongoing plan, so talk the next time at every appointment and explain what service will be required and the cost involved and rebook them before they leave the salon.
Marc Antoni
Condition: Recommend that they use the very best for their blonde, prior and post colouring. There are so many Plex additives on the market now to protect blonde hair, always advise that they have it added to the colour and describe the benefits of this and the post treatment, it will maintain their hair’s health and strength. Always give home maintenance advice, what should they use and how often. If they are going to invest in being blonde, they need to invest in looking after it.
DON’T FORGET A reminder from Philip Bell, Partner, Ishoka Hair and Beauty.
Michelle Griffin
JOICO
Silver shampoos and conditioners are essential for keeping blonde hair from going blonde and should be used in place of your regular shampoo and conditioner one to two times per week to keep your hair colour looking its best. Hair masks are also incredibly important to keep blonde hair colour looking its best, most vibrant and to stop the hair colour from fading, as hair masks help to seal the colour into the hair. With blonde hair it’s also important to look at what products you are using in your hair, as products with colour within them can change your hair colour. With oils in particular, always try to use clear, natural oils such as coconut oil or argan oil that will not make your hair colour go yellow or brassy.
Ross Charles
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21
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How to create the PERFECT Californian Blonde By Leandro Santos Santana, Owner of Decode Hair by Leandro. When we think of Californian blondes we always think of gorgeous beachy, sunkissed colours – an incredibly expensive and luxurious look that provides warmth to the complexion. I pride myself on being a blonde perfectionist and at Decode Hair by Leandro we have so many clients coming into the salon requesting this golden hued shade, particularly during the winter months when blondes tend to tone down their hair. Here are my steps on creating this dreamy colour… Leandro Santos
Royston Blythe
1. It all starts with a good consultation. With any hair colour, it’s important to have a consultation to discuss the colour process and how the clients dream hair colour will be achieved, whether it’s in that one sitting or if it will take a few, which can be the case particularly on a dark haired client looking to go lighter. 2. It’s all about technique, when creating this type of blonde I always like to use a heavy mix of babylights (and when I say baby I mean baby and extra fine!) and also balayage. In my personal opinion, using both techniques provides a more natural effect and avoids a very obvious regrowth. I use the lowest level of peroxide/prelightener (Wella Blondor 4% or 1.9%), even if it takes a bit longer processing, it gives me more control and the condition of the hair won’t suffer.
3. Once the development time is over (around 40 minutes), it’s time to provide the hair with strength and shine! I always use a Bonding Conditioner (Olaplex/Wellaplex) and apply this on towel-dried hair, leaving it on for 10 minutes. I then follow this up by shampooing the hair and “Coming into 2020 I think for blondes we will see a applying a ph balancer.
lot less bleaching and full heads of blonde colour 4. Time for the glossing finishing touches. This colour looks best babylights, as well as balayage. These services are when it’s full of shine, giving it that luxurious and expensive feel, and I great as they avoid a very obvious regrowth and give always like to use glosses to the hair a more natural appearance.” enhance my client’s natural hair and shine. At the end of the day, who doesn’t want good, healthy looking, shiny hair?
and instead, more subtle, fine highlights and
SESH Hairdressing
Hooker & Young
Tracey Devine-Smith ASP
5. Conditioner, Conditioner, Conditioner! After the glossing process it’s important to use conditioner in the hair. Conditioner is so important to use with any sort of hair, but especially with blondes, as well as at home care treatments to keep the blonde looking and feeling its best. 6. Once the colour process is finished it’s time to blow-dry the hair in order for it to be styled and this colour looks incredible when paired with effortless, beachy waves. Prior to styling always use heat protection. One of my favourites is the All In One Milk by Davines, which protects the hair from heat, softens the hair and controls frizz, whilst providing extra shine.
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THE BOOK OF BLONDE
BLONDE AMBITION REVON PROFESSIONAL gives strength to blondes.
From the purest blonde to babylights and balayage through to fantasy colours, lightening services are a major source of business for salons and are key in building customer loyalty, but the path to a lighter hair colour is not always easy with the possibility of damage and breakage during the service especially when hair is sensitised or very porous. The chemical action of some lightening products on the hair can break structural bonds in the fibre, leaving it weak and fragile, with a dull, lifeless appearance and may even lead to irreparable damage.
STEP INTO THE LIGHT… Revlon Professional’s Blonderful range has been formulated with PLEXFORCE™ inside, a unique technology that helps maintain the hair’s structural bonds intact and reduces damage in every step of the service giving your clients the confidence to go blonde. PLEXFORCE™ inside is a cutting-edge combination of maleic acid and a specific conditioner that penetrates the hair fibre to provide this added protection, while improving service convenience as it is no longer necessary to add other products to the lightening mix to prevent damage.
BRING ON THE BLONDES Blonderful brings you an entire range dedicated to blondes. BLONDERFUL™ LIGHTENING POWDER 씰 PLEXFORCE™ inside to protect and preserve hair’s structure 씰 Can lighten up to eight levels with optimal neutralisation 씰 XXL 750g tub meaning more product for more services BLONDERFUL™ BOND DEFENDER 씰 Post lightening treatment to seal and protect the cuticle 씰 PLEXFORCE™ inside to protect
씰
and preserve hair’s structure Interacts with the post colour shampoo to protect the hair and return to its natural state
BLONDERFUL™ BOND MAINTAINER 씰 Retail product to maintain inner strength at home. 씰 PLEXFORCE™ inside to protect and preserve hair’s structure
BLONDERFUL™ 5’ SOFT LIGHTENER 씰 Softens the contrast between highlights and natural base 씰 Achieves a brighter more luminous blonde 씰 Ammonia Free BLONDERFUL™ 5’ SOFT TONER 씰 Neutralises highlights without altering base colour 씰 Available in four shades 씰 Ammonia Free
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HN010 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23
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THE BOOK OF BLONDE
SUN BLUSHED BLONDE TIGI Global Creative Technical Director, Christel Lundqvist uses TIGI’s new True Light White lightener to create this Californian sand and sunset boulevard inspired global blonde look. Formula 1: Pre-Lightener True Light White + Activator 20vol/6% (Mix ratio 1:1 - 1.2) Formula 2: Sheer Beige (Toner) 15g Gloss 9/83 15g Gloss 10/02 + 45g Activator 5vol/1.5%
STEP ONE
STEP TWO
STEP THREE
Create four sections by taking a profile and a radial parting. Secure all sections.
Begin the application at the crown area by applying Formula 1 to the new-growth.
Working with horizontal partings, continue applying Formula 1 to the new-growth alternating side to side through the back sections moving towards the nape.
STEP FOUR
STEP FIVE
STEP SIX
Once the entire back section is complete, move back to the crown area. Continue carrying out the new-growth application by taking vertical partings on either side and moving towards the hairline.
Once the application is complete, process the lightener until the desired undertone has been achieved, not exceeding 50 minutes.
Carry out TIGI Copyright SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment prior to the toning service. Follow treatment guidelines and processing time.
STEP SEVEN
Tone the pre-lightened areas using Formula 2. Apply the mixture to the root area first and, once complete, apply the toner to the ends. Process visually for up to 20 mins.
Achieve, healthy-looking blondes with TIGI’s maximum lift lightener. NEW True Light White features an improved lift of up to 8 levels plus Cuti-Plex Complex that delivers protection and resilience to the hair fibre with significantly reduced breakage during the lightening process. These features combined with TIGI’s advanced lightening formula provide bright and healthy looking blondes. Find out more at www.rdr.link/HN040
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PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27
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INNOVATORS IN COLOUR, GOLDWELL OFFERS YOU AN INFINITE WORLD OF COLOUR CREATIVITY WHICH WILL ELEVATE YOUR COLOUR EXPERTISE AND UPGRADE YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS. As a brand that continually innovates, Goldwell gives you, the professional colourist, the ultimate products to excel at your craft. Get inspired by a holistic colour system that gives you boundless possibilities. From high-performance permanent colour to gentle tonings, you get everything for beautiful and easy-to-create colour results. Just the way your clients love it.
Leaders in innovation THE COLOUR CAN SYSTEM – TOPCHIC AND COLORANCE The can system is unique to Goldwell and a revolution in how a salon operates its colour business. Designed to enable quick and highly accurate measuring, the system can dramatically reduce your application costs and wastage. With air-tight closing after each usage, oxidation is prevented, leading to a longer shelf life than traditional tubes. Add to that the ability to create Goldwell colour bars to present colour in a stunning way to your clients and you have all the makings of a growing and more profitable colour business.
@PURE PIGMENTS: IMAGINE COLOUR, NOW MULTIPLY IT @Pure Pigments are six direct dye additives for use with Topchic, Colorance and Nectaya to create unique multi-layered colour reflects in the hair. Developed in collaboration with Fujifilm, patented HD3 dye technology gives multi-dimensional and multi-tonal light reflections by surrounding the coloured hair with an outer ring of extraordinary colour brilliance, resulting in 63% more shine*, three times colour intensity** and twice the resistance to fading***. * Based on shine measurement: TC 6N in combination with @PP Yellow, Orange, Red and Violet compared to TC 6N at max.recommended usage amount ** Based on Chroma measurements TC + @PP (Yellow, Red, Orange, Violet) vs. TC + standard mix shades at max. recommended usage amount *** Average value of TC + @PP vs. TC + standard mix shades, at max. recommended usage amount
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ADVERTORIAL
ELUMEN – TASTIQUE Elumen is a unique, innovative hair colour that offers the ultimate playground for creative colour specialists. This intensive hair colour works with direct-acting colour pigments - entirely without oxidation and ammonia. It has an exceptionally effective magnet effect: Elumen pigments are drawn deep inside the hair where they are anchored securely. In addition, it has a gentle repair effect, filling and improving the hair structure and reflecting the light to give a brilliant shine. And the playground just got bigger as ELUMEN PLAY, Goldwell’s semi-permanent colour, goes metallic with four new shades: glistening @METALLIC BERRY, glimmering @METALLIC PURPLE, shimmering @METALLIC PETROL and shiny @METALLIC SILVER. Play with shimmer all over or simply add some glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles. All shades can be mixed and matched and fade true to tone up to 100%. Plus two new long lasting ELUMEN GREYS: Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6! These trend-based fashion shades are part of the ELUMEN COOLS and open up a new Elumen colour world.
COLOUR AND COMMITMENT
Goldwell not only offers a great colour focus, it is also committed to partnering with hairdressers on their colour journey enabling them to achieve their creative and business ambitions.
ADDICTED TO COLOUR SALON “We had three key requirements when we started looking for a new colour house: 1. Excellent product, particularly the colour. 2. Excellent company culture that matched our own. 3. Competitive contract agreement. Goldwell met all of these and more. We found the change to be smooth and inspiring, giving us products that have exceeded our expectations and helped improve our colour services. Having a new product portfolio enabled us to relook at our service offering – we have changed our name after 16 years to focus on being creative colour specialists to focus more on our perfect client.”
LukCelaarnedHalford
“The Master Colorist Programme means so much to our salon. We currently have two Master Colorists, Kate and Jenny. They learned so much on the course and have brought all their knowledge back with them to share with the other girls in the salon. The volume of colours we do and the looks we can achieve after having this training have increased dramatically and been a massive asset to our business.” Kate Preston Salons, Fareham and Gosport FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.GOLDWELL.CO.UK
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Sharon Malcolm Hair Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing Make-up Siobhon Luckie Styling Clare Frith Photography Jack Eames
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Marc Antoni Hair Marc Antoni Artistic Team Make-up Katie Moore Styling Bruno Marc Photography Jamie Blanshard
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Rick Roberts Hair Rick Roberts Make-up Roseanna Velin Styling Anna Latham Photography Richard Miles
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Karine Jackson Hair Karine Jackson using Organic Colour Systems Make-up Margaret Aston Styling Karly Brown Photography Andrew O’Toole
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Scissor
SMART Thinning scissors are a key ingredient in any hairdresser or barber’s toolkit. Used to remove weight, shatter layers, add texture or crop shorter styles their uses are endless. We’ve rounded up the latest and greatest thinners and texturisers on the market so you can keep your own kitbag up to date.
Thinning scissors are an essential item in every hairdresser’s kitbag. I use them on at least every fourth client when I’m in the salon and I always have them at hand. Thinning scissors give you a result that cannot be achieved with normal scissors and are an important part of my tool kit. There are different types of thinning scissor, they take out a varied percentage of hair from 10% to more than 30%, but on the whole they all do the same thing: they cut some hairs whilst leaving others intact. Some have serrated teeth on both blades which I don’t personally like because they remove too much hair and you have less control over My top tips what you are removing. I use 5.5” or 6” for using thinning scissors: and it’s worth remembering that thinning scissors are heavier than normal They are easy to use once you get used to them. cutting scissors because of the detail So experiment with them first, try chipping into the hair like in the blades. So, if you haven’t used you would with normal scissors so you can see the result. them before I would recommend You can use them horizontally for maximum working on the tips of the hair first to weight reduction, or vertically for less. give you an idea of the type of weight reduction you get before you go Try using them to do a scissor-over-comb, deeply into the hair. They are often and you will find you get a much softer, more natural effect. more expensive than everyday cutting Use them to create a grown-out effect on a soft fringe. scissors because of the work that is Always invest in a good quality involved in the blades, but as always it is pair to get the best results. worth investing in a good pair. Thinning scissors are perfect for fading and a more authentic vintage style. AKIN KONIZI, INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, HOB ACADEMY
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SCISSORS
í˘ą í˘ľ
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í˘ą The Akito Taka 30T an ultra ergonomic off-set handle design with an extended thumb provides increased hand comfort reducing the risks of developing RSI or Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. The tooth blade is situated in front of the cutting blade, enabling visibility of tooth placement for refining work. The Taka 30T features 30 ‘v-blade’ straight teeth to provide assured hair capture. www.rdr.link/HN011
í˘˛ The Joewell Supreme SNT from G.E. Bettertons is an innovation in volume control. With a cut ratio of less than 5%, the 40 teeth are
designed to only cut one strand of hair, per tooth, per cut. This not only reduces damage to the hair, but gives complete control of the desired volume. By cutting at the root of the hair, not only do you reduce volume, but also control the volume by the amount of times you cut. The supreme stainless alloy is of a regular composition and contains about 5% nickel. www.rdr.link/HN012
í˘ł The Alfa Italia Sessione Rosa Soft Cut Thinning and Blending Scissor is designed to never show a cut mark, to cut the hair very short, to blend shorter to longer sections of hair and to
evaporate/thin bulk and thickness of hair. It’s designed with the teeth on the lower blade to allow the hair to flow naturally over the teeth to ensure a flawless, clean finish. Available in 6'' length and made from Japanese 420 Steel with a hand finished convex blade it’s perfect for thinning and to cut fringes without seeing the cut. www.rdr.link/HN013
í˘´ The Texturiser by Hunt & Hustle is a great tool for any barber’s kit bag. Made from superior high grade carbon steel it has 12 specially designed teardrop shaped teeth. This design ensures clean snag free cutting as the teardrop shape removes
35-40% of hair with minimum effort and stress. It’s great for creative cutting styles. www.rdr.link/HN014
í˘ľ The Akito Akira 30T is a classically designed thinning scissor with the cutting blade situated in front of the tooth blades enabling a closer cut and increased accuracy when used for scissor-over-comb techniques. It features a semi-offset ergonomic design for assured hand comfort and an equal tooth to space ratio for creating soft cut effects such as blending and diffusing weight distribution in both short and long hair. www.rdr.link/HN015
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 57
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í˘ą
í˘˛
í˘ľ
í˘ł í˘´
í˘ą The Alfa Italia Sessione Nero Soft Cut are the definitive thinning and blending hairdressers’ scissors designed to cut very short, to blend shorter to longer and to evaporate/thin the bulk and thickness of hair with no blade marks. They replace the old fashioned thinning scissor where the thinning teeth are traditionally found on the upper blade. These 6'' length scissors are made from premium grade Japanese 440 steel with a hand finished convex blade deliver a silky smooth feel. www.rdr.link/HN016
í˘˛ The Dark Stag DS+ Offset Thinner utilises an innovative tip design on the 30 teeth to guarantee an extremely smooth feel with zero
58 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
pulling or dragging on the hair. The scissor’s ergonomic design combines with the smooth tension system provides effortless comfort and reduces strain on the hand.  Made in beautiful, high performance heat treated stainless steel. A razor sharp, acute blade edge ensures a clean cut. Perfect for thinning, texturising or removing bulk. www.rdr.link/HN017
í˘ł The Alfa Italia Platino Soft Cut Thinning and Blending Hairdressers’ Scissors are designed to cut very short, to blend shorter to longer and to evaporate/thin the bulk and thickness of hair with no blade marks. These 6'' length hairdressers scissors are made
from premium grade Japanese Hitachi Steel with a hand finished convex blade deliver a surprisingly smooth feel. www.rdr.link/HN018
ratio the Warrior creates a weave cut effect for shattering long layers to create hair movement or add texture to short crops. www.rdr.link/HN019
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Hand crafted from Hitachi Japanese Steel provides the Akito Warrior’s blades with an extraordinarily sharp, durable and powerful cutting edge. The two removable finger rests allow the Warrior to be used alternately with the tooth blade in front or behind the cutting blade. It features 10 angled taper-blade teeth to provide assured hair capture and produce a softer angle on each cut section of hair whilst the tear drop shaped spaces enable the use of the cut-comb technique. As a result of the wide tooth to space
Hunt & Hustle Thinner is a specialist thinning scissor made from superior high grade carbon steel with 32 special wave designed teeth with Teflon Dampening System for super smooth cutting. This ensures clean, snag free cutting removing 20-25% of hair. It has a low profile tension disc for full control and easy adjustment. With an ergonomic shape and semi off-set handle the Thinner sits naturally in your hand for comfort and excellent control. www.rdr.link/HN020
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SCISSORS
I think that thinning scissors have got a bit of a bad reputation over the years but this is generally down to them being used badly and getting blamed for poor results. They’re a great tool when used properly – you just need to understand them and to take care with how you use them. I actually don’t like to call them thinning scissors because thinning is only one aspect of what they can actually do. I’ve always referred to them as texturisers as they are such a versatile tool. I use texturisers when I want to create a different feel within the hair – think of them as having the ability to add ‘special effects’ and use them when you want the hair to do things that you can’t achieve with other tools. It might be to add softness, to make the hair feel lighter in parts or to add separation, so that the hair responds better. If you’re cutting a fringe and find that the hair sits naturally to one side, you can use them to even out the distribution of the hair. I also use them for Before you use scissors-over-comb work because it gives a softer thinning scissors, you have to finish than a clipper or straight scissors. It’s a really master how to use them. versatile scissor and as a general rule, if you want a softer finish, the texturiser is a good tool to use. You need to understand what Before you use thinning scissors, you have to they can and can’t do and once master how to use them. You need to understand what they can and can’t do and once you know that, you know that, you’ll you’ll understand when to use them. understand when As a general rule, I tend to avoid using thinning to use them. scissors on very textured hair because when you use them, it creates different lengths within the hair, which can cause it to become unruly. However, the same can happen if they’re used badly on very straight hair – this isn’t down to the scissors, but instead a bad technique. Basically, before you decide to use any tool, you have to understand the hair type and then you will know the best tool to use. When working with length, avoid cutting close to the roots and avoid using them horizontally to the hair. If you’re trying to create texture or make hair lighter, it’s best to hold scissors parallel to the hair. If using scissors-over-comb, be patient with the scissors and work with the ends, rather than going straight in at the root and cutting too much. I don’t believe there are any drawbacks to using thinning scissors. It’s a tool, just like straight scissors and therefore it’s important that you understand when – and when not – to use them and to understand how you want them to perform. ou’ve got to be a master of your tool. Anyone using thinning scissors for the first time should get a head and experiment. Be extreme – try cutting a lot, then a little and get to understand the features, a bit like using a wet product for the first time. Get to know how they perform in order to understand what they can do. It’s also important to experiment in this way so that you understand what happens when you use them incorrectly. When the scissors don’t perform as you want, it’s because you haven’t used them properly, so you need to keep practicing – as the saying goes: “Great leaders don’t blame the tools they are given. They work to sharpen them.” ROBERT MASCIAVE, CREATOR OF THE AWARD-WINNING EBLADE SCISSORS
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THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
WHAT’S NEW Philip Kingsley Bond Builder Split End Remedy helps to protect and strengthen existing bonds and repair broken ones while instantly sealing split ends for stronger, visibly healthier hair. With results which last for up to three washes, it forms a shield on the hair, helping to prevent future damage caused by UV, pollution and heated styling tools. www.rdr.link/HN021
JOICO Dream Blowout thermal protection crème is a one-and-done blow-drying solution that saves major time, shields hair from thermal damage, protects against humidity and fights frizz. It’s infused with Manketti Nut Oil, Safflower Seed Oil and Arginine to nourish, strengthen and protect every strand while cutting drying time by 50%. www.rdr.link/HN022
R+CO has unveiled Two-Way Mirror, a lightweight smoothing oil that reflects light and melts into hair leaving it polished without feeling weighed down. The oil contains Vegan Weightless Silicone Complex for softness and shine plus Moringa Seed Oil and Argan Oil. Simply apply a small amount to the mid-shaft and work downwards with a smoothing motion. www.rdr.link/HN023
Schwarzkopf Professional has added two new products to its OSiS+ Long Hair Texture Styling range. OSiS+ Texture Blow is a blow-dry mist designed for easy blow-drying whilst adding volume and bounce to all hair types. OSiS+ Beach Texture is a dry aerosol sugar spray developed to create tousled beach waves without the crunchy feel. www.rdr.link/HN024
Paul Mitchell has unveiled a texture trio addition to its Invisiblewear collection. In the line up Invisiblewear Velvet Cream for smoothing and taming with feather light definition, Invisiblewear Air Gel for adding volme and piecey texture with a light and touchable hold, and Invisiblewear Cloud Whip which forms gorgeous lived in looks with a light-as-air feel. www.rdr.link/HN025
Keratin Complex Vitalshot is a one step bond rebuilder for stronger and better colour. It rebuilds and repairs the bonds of the hair in just one service and can be used alone, with a masque or in any colouring or lightening procedure with no added processing time or change to formulation. It won’t leave a coating on hair and doesn’t need to be rinsed. www.rdr.link/HN026
ELEVEN Australia has built on the success of the original Miracle Hair Treatment with Miracle Spray Hair Treatment – the same multi-tasking treatment now in a spray form. Just like the original lotion, Miracle Spray Hair Treatment has 11 benefits from controlling frizz and adding shine, to strengthening hair and preventing split ends, this versatile spray suits all hair types and textures. www.rdr.link/HN027
Two new products have launched from Guy Tang’s #mydentity brand. #MyConfidant shampoo and conditioner provides colour securing care that prolongs colour tone and vibrancy for up to 50 shampoos. #MyHairLube Hair Finishing Lubricant controls frizz and flyaways and reduces breakage by 98% for healthier looking hair. www.rdr.link/HN028
The latest launch from SACO is Primer, a leave-in treatment and detangler for everyday use. It contains Hydrolysed Silk Protein, Comfrey and Bamboo Extracts to strengthen and repair hair whilst providing protection and adding shine. www.rdr.link/HN029
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Revlon Professional MAGN±T is a pollution shield for vibrant hair colour. The range provides protection against environmental aggressors and is designed to reveal the best colour result and a healthier hair fibre. The professional service consists of a Pollution Neutralizer additive and a post technical shampoo and will work with any colour a salon uses. There are also three take home products, a Micellar Shampoo, repairing Treatment and Leave-on Spray, to maintain the service at home. www.rdr.link/HN030
ASP has unleashed the new INFINITI range, an incredible line of permanent hair colours, toners, colour additives and colour highlighting. Offering an enhanced colour palette of 139 stunning shades, the range boasts a superior next generation technology (GPS-TECnology™) to deliver ultimate colour performance. You can expect even greater colour intensity, unbeatable coverage and unrivalled shine, with longer-lasting results. www.rdr.link/HN031
HydraSplash is a new hair care collection from JOICO designed to provide 24-hour hydration to thoroughly replenish moisture, shine and softness without weighing hair down. Fine, dry and brittle hair will be revitalised and transformed with a lightweight feel. www.rdr.link/HN032
Milk_shake has added four products to its Lifestyling family. Powder Pop is a weightless styling powder for providing volume to any style. Curl Shaper adds definition and longevity to curls. Blow-Dry Primer gives hair greater body and texture and Medium Hold Gel gives hold to any style to create defined looks and incredible shine. www.rdr.link/HN033
Fresh from Nick Irwin and Francesco Ruggerino’s brand ANTI is the ANTI Cream Paste. The gender neutral molding paste adds malleable hold, moisture, control and a healthy looking shine, ideal for creating textured hold on shorter hairstyles. The Cream Paste jar also has a slide off lid meaning it can be opened with one hand, ideal for session styling and working on the go. www.rdr.link/HN034
WetBrush has created the ultimate salon backbar pairing with the Pro Backbar Detangler and the Pro Paddle Detangler designed specifically for hair professionals to create pain-free salon detangling for the back bar. Available in Black, Pink, Purple and Teal, the brushes deliver over 45% less damage and 55% less effort. These brushes also boast an ergonomically advanced design with elevated profile to be more rigid and a non-slip EasyGrip™ handle for more control, even when the hands are wet. www.rdr.link/HN035
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ADVERTORIAL
TA L K I N G TEETH We chatted with Shaun Pulfrey to find out exactly what it is about Tangle Teezer hairbrushes that make them a must-have tool for stylists and clients alike.
Tell us what is so unique about Tangle Teezer hairbrushes? As a brand we asked ourselves why do people call our hairbrushes magic. There was only one answer – and that’s our innovative teeth. They perform like magic on every single hairbrush and live up to their function whether it’s detangling, blow-drying or styling. All our teeth are patented and cannot be copied on any other hairbrush globally.
What is it about the teeth that make the hairbrushes detangle so fast whether your’re at the backwash or the styling station? The teeth flex, so they loosen and glide through tangles, rather than locking in and pulling out. I made them two-tiered as they work together simultaneously – the long teeth detangle, whilst at the same time, the shorter teeth smooth the cuticle.
What would you say to stylists who haven’t yet used the Blow-Styling Tools? You’re missing out! Again, their power lies in their teeth. Tension is built into them, so there’s no stretch drying the hair to get it smooth. It saves the stylist time – the wider base of the tooth draws away excess water, and the client loves the gentle drying experience of not having their hair pulled about.
The Ultimate Finisher has really earned its reputation as the go-to brush for handling extensions and giving a superior finish to your ’do. It’s been a massive hit – Hollywood and celebrity stylist Chris Appleton loves it! The soft tips flex over extension bonds and weaves without pulling them out, it’s brilliant for whipping up hair for updos and brushing through curls, leaving hair with movement and bounce. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT TANGLE TEEZER PLEASE VISIT WWW.TANGLETEEZER.COM/PROFESSIONAL
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SPOTLIGHT
? k n i r d a y c n a F
NEW JOICO HYDRASPLASH IS A NEW HAIR CARE COLLECTION DESIGNED TO PROVIDE 24-HOUR HYDRATION TO THOROUGHLY REPLENISH MOISTURE, SHINE AND SOFTNESS WITHOUT WEIGHING HAIR DOWN. FINE, DRY AND BRITTLE HAIR IS RESTORED AND TRANSFORMED WITH A LIGHTWEIGHT FEEL.
Thirsty hair will love it... ✔ HYDRASPLASH GIVES FINE-TO-MEDIUM HAIR THE HYDRATION IT NEEDS AND NOURISHES STRANDS WITH A GENTLE TOUCH. ✔ 24-HOUR HYDRATION.* ✔ HAIR LOOKS REPLENISHED, SHINY AND HEALTHY AFTER JUST ONE USE. ✔ WON’T WEIGH HAIR DOWN.
Making a splash HYDRASPLASH HYDRATING SHAMPOO ● Luxurious lather thoroughly cleanses hair without stripping natural moisture. ● Leaves hair brilliantly clean and feeling soft and hydrated. HYDRASPLASH HYDRATING CONDITIONER ● Detangles even super-fine strands. ● Leaves hair feeling soft and moisturised. ● Replenishes elasticity and won’t weigh fine hair down. HYDRASPLASH HYDRATING GELEE MASQUE ● A unique gelee treatment is powerful enough to create a wave of healthy hydration without overpowering delicate strands – a real lightweight, thirst-quencher for fine, dry, parched hair. ● Detangles even super-fine strands. ● Reduces frizz. ● Won’t weigh fine hair down.
HYDRASPLASH HYDRATING REPLENISHING LEAVE-IN Perfect as a pre blow-dry, leave-in after a cleanse and condition routine, this replenishing hydrator delivers a dose of nourishment and banishes frizz that results in brilliantly supple, soft, shiny hair. Instant, visible results – frizz-fighting hydration, shine, and softness – keep on working long after this lightweight, replenishing leave-in has been applied to thirsty hair. ● Boosts softness and shine. ● Reduces frizz. ● Won’t weigh fine strands down.
FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HN037 *When using HydraSplash Shampoo, Conditioner, and Leave-in, or HydraSplash Shampoo and Gelee Masque
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PREP
Two new additions to this part of the Fudge family. ● New Blow Dry Aqua Primer Hold Factor 3 Shine The essential first step for the ultimate, long-lasting blow dry. With heat protection up to 230°C, blow dry in for loosely defined texture and hold with natural body and volume and a non-sticky, weightless feel. Hydrating hyaluronic acid is combined with the WEATHER-SHIELD™ technology to create a virtual umbrella for the hair, delivering all day humidity resistance and frizz control, improved softness, smoothness and visible shine. DIRECTIONS: Smooth through towel-dried hair and blow dry in.
Style Saviours Get blown away with this new look styling range.
Fudge Professional’s mission is to offer a comprehensive range of unique and on-trend products which support the needs of the salon professional and their clients who want to experiment with their style at home, on the move, or wherever they feel like it, and the new styling range relaunch is here to do just that. Alongside its iconic styling products the launch also includes four exciting new products: Blow Dry Aqua Primer, Aqua Shine Serum, Curl Revolution Mist and Matte Hed Mouldable.
Planet F Saving e new Styling
ntly, th unt of Importa me amo a s e th ck om pots pa made fr but are t, c e all r u a d pro They plastic. to S S E e L o n ed 30% le with n b e la c th y h c wit fully re rt. Along a p e a th m ll s, a pull the te’ tube s a p th o y o g is full iconic ‘t packagin aerosol le. recyclab
80%
Agreed their blow dry held its style for longer of 64 women surveyed.
● New Curl Revolution Mist Hold Factor 2 Weightless curl enhancement to revolutionise the look and feel of curls. No stickiness, no heaviness, no crispy crunch. Quench curls’ thirst for moisture and create beautiful definition, natural volume and texture with a healthy-looking shine for guys and girls. WEATHER-SHIELD™ technology delivers all day frizz control and humidity resistance to protect curl integrity and improve manageability. DIRECTIONS: Spray liberally into hair and either air-dry or diffuse dry.
85%
said this gave them crunch free curls of 61 women surveyed.
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SPOTLIGHT
SCULPT
A new Matte mate joins its Fudge friends. ● New Matte Hed Mouldable
Hold Factor 6 Matte Flexible, medium hold and long-lasting matte finish in a lightweight formula, ideal for finer hair types. The unique clay-cream texture smooths easily through hair and won’t weigh it down. Creating texture and definition, Matte Hed Mouldable is enriched with FLEXI-FIBRE technology to provide flexible, medium hold. Enhanced with a CLIMATE-CONTROL shield to provide all day humidity protection. DIRECTIONS: Scoop out, apply to hands, and rub together. Smooth evenly through hair and style as desired.
77%
Agreed it gave them a flexible style of 70 men surveyed.
WE BELIEVE IN USING RECYCLED MATERIALS WHEREVER WE CAN – IN FACT, 76% OF OUR NEW STYLING RANGE CONTAINS RECYCLED PLASTIC!*
FINISH
A new serum joins the finishing line-up. ● New Aqua Shine Serum
Hold Factor 1 Shine The ultimate weightless, smoothing, glossing finish to every style. Smooth through hair to create a virtual umbrella of protection with WEATHER-SHIELD™ technology that delivers all day humidity resistance and frizz control. Infused with hyaluronic acid and our SHINE-LOCK™ technology to envelop each strand, this smooths down cuticles for your best ever smoothness and long-lasting shine. DIRECTIONS: Smooth through wet or dry hair to lock in all day incredible shine and softness.
74%
Said it was the most lightweight serum they had ever used of 62 women surveyed.
“I was involved in the research and development of the new look styling range and also the campaign shoot. It’s all about creating products that enable the stylist to achieve luxury looking hair with that urban edge to it. We’ve great stand out products and ingredients within the range too – the new Aqua Blow Dry Primer is a must-have for achieving the perfect blow-dry. It’s the perfect foundation product. It’s been a great experience working with the Fudge Professional team on this new launch and looking forward to hearing the feedback from the salon customers on the new styling products.” Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional Global Brand Ambassador
FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HN036
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SPOTLIGHT
POWER PAT E N T E D Tangle Teezer launches ‘The Power’s in the Teeth’ campaign to spread the word about the hairbrushes’ unique technology.
Ever wondered what makes Tangle Teezer hairbrushes so effective? You’re not the only one. They’re often referred to as the magic hairbrush with superior detangling powers, nobody can quite put their finger on why Tangle Teezer hairbrushes work so well, they just do! Well now we’ve got the answer, it’s the unique two-tiered teeth. A force to be reckoned with when it comes to detangling, blow-drying and styling hair, Tangle Teezer’s patented teeth can’t be found on any other hairbrush in the world. They’ve got innovative technology, which is adapted across each hairbrush to suit every hair type. Finding the right flex for your client’s hair type is easy. The Detangling hairbrush range features the powerful two-tiered teeth technology across three different types of teeth and the difference is all in the flex. For those whose hair is fine, thinning, colour treated or needs a little TLC, Fine & Fragile has soft-flex teeth. The Salon Elite has regular flex teeth for quick and easy detangling while the Thick & Curly has long and strong firm flex teeth to confidently detangle Afro and curly hair with no pulling or tugging. The Blow-Drying hairbrushes feature teeth in an overlapping configuration that does all the hard work for you, taking off excess water for a quicker blow-dry meaning less heat on the hair. Offering the perfect finishing touch, The Ultimate Finishing Hairbrush dry-styles and dresses hair. Its two-tiered teeth catch every strand of hair when sweeping up into a ponytail or topknot. The long teeth and softer tips help blend hair extensions into your clients’ hair. Detangle, smooth and tease without breakage or damage, whatever Tangle Teezer you choose, the Power is in the Teeth! FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HN038
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COLOUR CLOSE-UP
METALLIC MANIA Experience a different way of creating colour with six trendy new shades from GOLDWELL.
Expand your colour creativity and make metallic a part of your colour palette with the new ELUMEN trend shades. Metallize your colour with ELUMEN PLAY or go grey with long lasting ELUMEN COOLS. ELUMEN PLAY, Goldwell’s semi-permanent colour, goes metallic with four new shades: glistening @METALLIC BERRY, glimmering @METALLIC PURPLE, shimmering @METALLIC PETROL shiny @METALLIC SILVER., allowing you to play with shimmer all over or simply add some glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles. All shades can be mixed and matched and fade true to tone up to 100%. Plus the ELUMEN PLAY Eraser removes all shades so you are ready for the next creation.**
DON’T FADE TO GREY Make grey your favourite colour with two new long lasting ELUMEN GREYS: Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6. These trend-based fashion shades are part of the ELUMEN COOLS. ELUMEN direct dye technology offers incredible shine and extraordinary colour brilliance. ELUMEN is the original Elumenation – non-oxidative, ammonia free and without ammonia odour. Complete your collection with ELUMEN CARE: The perfect match for ELUMEN products, designed to maintain ELUMEN colour and support ELUMEN PLAY to fade on tone.
**Up to 100% and depending on hair structure and intensity of existing color.
The first annual Goldwell Colour of the Year: DIGITAL TEAL. In 2020 colours are shifting from bold brights to become more oxygenated and airy. Clever combinations of warms and cools go beyond traditional hair colour. The Goldwell colour trend palette goes beyond ordinary colour with cool shades that are elumenated with clever combinations of cools and warms and experiments with bold, gender-neutral and colorful tones. The Colour of the Year Digital Teal fits perfectly into this palette. The fusion of blue and green makes up Digital Teal. Its duality has a versatile and trans-seasonal appeal. On top of that, the saturation level adds a sense of confidence and gravitas. “Digital Teal is exciting because it’s a fresh, modern twist on a classic blue and is a key shade in our 2020 hair color trend palette. From now on the ‘Colour of the Year’ will be an annual announcement from Goldwell.” John Moroney, Global Creative Director Goldwell.
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HN039
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IN THE SECOND OF A SERIES OF FEATURES FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER, ALAN SIMPSON, DIRECTOR OF AWARD-WINNING SALON GROUP CONTEMPORARY SALONS, LOOKS AT HOW TO MAINTAIN STANDARDS THROUGH AN EFFECTIVE EDUCATION PROGRAMME AS A SALON BRAND GROWS.
Maintaining standards Consistency in the way you train your team members and maintain standards is vital to growing your existing business, particularly if you plan to expand from one salon to two, or even develop your brand into a salon group. You need a training manual If you want to grow your business and employ more team members, or want to expand from one outlet to two or more, it’s vital that to have a clear training plan or training manual. You will need to develop a system that sets out how to operate and how to cut and colour hair. You can’t have a salon business where everyone does things differently. At Contemporary Salons we use a training manual that covers apprentices, stylists, and colourists and their education in all areas of our business, including customer service. Your business needs to standardise methods of hairdressing and delivering customer service. There needs to be clear benchmarks and policies in place that will enable you to train each team member into doing everything in line with your brand and its core values. This will set your business’s standards and give your salon its own USP. Creating your salon standards It’s always a good idea to involve your team when devising a set of standards. If team members are invested in a set of guidelines, they are more likely to value and follow them. You and your team need to agree on the classic haircuts that will form the basis of technical training – this could include bobs, forward graduation, round layers, and so on. At Contemporary Salons we have 13 haircuts and seven colour techniques that every stylist and apprentice must learn at intermediate level before looking after clients in the salons. Then we have an additional seven advanced haircuts and five colours at an advanced level. You and your team must also agree on how certain techniques, such as section patterns, blow-dry finishing and colour are delivered within your business. You should then take photos of each haircut and colour, with step-by-step guides on how to achieve them, plus the tools, products and finishing techniques needed to complete the looks. We have this in place for all our key looks, which we call Contemporary Classics, we back this up with videos of each look. Every apprentice and stylist is given a Contemporary Classics Training Manual on day one. Train the trainers Training should never stop, particularly for those delivering education to the team. Our in-salon trainers are taught how to deliver education via our Train the Trainer course with
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on-going support from head office until they are fluent in all the classics and how to deliver training effectively. Once stylists and assistants have completed the Contemporary training manual, they attend the Contemporary Academy and have a final test by our Contemporary education director, who will assess if they are ready go on the floor as a stylist or require more training. New stylists need to be trained in all elements of hairdressing, including men’s hair. We insist stylists are trained in barbering as the number of male clients visiting Contemporary Salons is increasing. The in-salon trainer is responsible for taking all team members through the classic cuts and colours, and passing them, before sending them to the Academy for the final test. We undertake salon visits to observe in-salon training and ensure that all education is being delivered in the Contemporary way. We also check that all the paperwork is up to date in each salon’s training manual. Building strong foundations When a new apprentice joins Contemporary Salons, we have our own in-house training programme for them to follow over and above the NVQ requirements. This training is delivered weekly in the salon and we start from the basics in cutting, blow drying and colouring. We also incorporate our client journey into their training to ensure that the highest levels of client service are met by every team member in every salon. There are set milestones over the duration of an apprenticeship which are broken down into three-month intervals. Each apprentice must pass the milestones for each quarter before moving onto the next. Apprentices normally take two years to get through the programme and then move on to the advanced training, which is set out in our training manual. We do not rely on the NVQ as we do not believe it meets all the requirements to make an apprentice salon-ready. We find that even when they do pass all their set milestones, they still need more education and support to get them to the stage of being a very confident stylist in the salon. Education is a journey not a destination. So, there is a tremendous amount of work to be done to create your training manual and the images for the step-by-step guides, and possibly videos. But it is worth the enormous effort in order to have a clear education policy that everyone joining your salon or brand must want to learn. It is by following these tried and tested ways that you will develop a winning formula that will keep your business successful through the delivery of consistent high levels of hairdressing and service.
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BUSINESS
AS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, MICHAEL SMITH HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON HOW THE DECLINING HIGH STREET MAY HAVE SERIOUS IMPLICATIONS FOR YOUR SALON
Lessons Learnt In every business there are always threats. And it’s essential to be on the lookout for them. From small changes within your salon to huge shifts in society and the way we live, being ahead of the game is the key to protecting your livelihood. One of the most prevalent threats today comes from the rise of the internet, and with every bit of good it’s bringing there are also downsides a-plenty. Previously the heart of every town, you can’t help but notice that our once-healthy high streets are in serious decline. There are fewer shoppers on the high street, most preferring to browse from the comfort of their armchairs. The good news for us as hairdressers is that we offer a physical service and there’s no ready-made replacement for a haircut at home. Yet! However, let’s not rest on our laurels. Many salons use their retail income to prop up, if not play a massive part in its financial strategy, and that stream of revenue can’t be ignored. What if your customers are now seeking out cheaper deals online? Also, if your salon is dependent on passing trade you need to think ahead about how that may dry up in the very near future. If it hasn’t already. Consumer Habits In many ways, retail is a straightforward business – you have to sell things for more than you paid for them. But there’s no doubt that things are far harder than they’ve ever been. Why? Well, mainly because bricks and mortar are costing more than ever, and customer habits are changing. Consumers now spend one in every five pounds online – and if businesses are seeing 20% fewer sales on the shop floor as well as their fixed costs rising, then profit margins will be squeezed. So, how do we as salon owners capitalise on this change in consumer habits? The good news is that people are spending increasing amounts of their disposable income on experiences and lifestyle. Being mediocre isn’t good enough anymore. Which is fantastic if your reputation (like ours) is carved out by its exceptional customer service and attention to detail. You simply can’t scrimp in your commitment to making your salon a destination where your customers want to spend their time… And their money. How do we buck this trend? By knowing what our clients want and giving it to them, with exceptional customer service and specialised product knowledge about solutions they really want to buy. You have to go out of your way to offer: ● ● ● ●
Customer service that’s a cut above. Always. A flawless, as well as comfortable, salon environment. Immaculate branding at every touchpoint. Continued investment in your staff and training.
In short, you will be judged on way more than just the quality of your cutting and colouring. It’s about every single thing your customer sees, feels and hears as soon as he or she walks through the door. It comes down to the detail – even the coffee you serve and the cup you pour it into. At Tristan Eves, we’re lucky to be in the pretty Sussex town of Petworth – a place that’s considered a destination location. But it hasn’t always been that way. In fact, when I first moved to Petworth 30 years ago it had a rather dull high street with nothing more than antiques shops. These days, I’ve become part of its vision group, which comprises various local authorities, the local business association, the National Trust and district community associations. It’s no accident that I’ve signed up too. The way I see it, our business depends on it! If you can get involved in this kind of organisation it will help shape the future vision for your town. Community Spirit It’s so important to play an active part in your town and community. It’s one way to determine how vibrant your high street will look now and in years to come. You can also have your say on critical matters such as town centre parking and over-expansion of out of town outlets, which we know are crippling small businesses. Luckily, in Petworth, there are new people setting up in the town, and initiatives such as a monthly market keeps people coming. Our aim is to get locals to carry on visiting and attract new visitors to the town. Another important point for me is that we hear so much about how small businesses are more vulnerable to the threat of closing than bigger chains with the high street under fire. Yes, that may be the case if your business success is borderline. But in my view as smaller operations, we can actually have the upper hand in this instance. With customers becoming more discerning, it’s precisely our individuality that makes us shine. We are nimble enough to adapt and change. Product line not selling? Lose it. Spot a marketing opportunity? Make the most of it. As for other threats? They’re everywhere. Just the other day I read an article about how scientists are hoping to find a solution to greying. Turns out there really is a link with hair losing its pigment and stress. Great news for those bemoaning their grey roots, not so great for our colour sales. Let’s face it though, whether it’s the threat of a high street in demise, or an overnight solution to grey hair around the corner, there WILL always be things to worry about in business. You can never predict the future, but by being on the lookout for potential risks and being ahead of the game, it you a much better chance not just to survive, but thrive.
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IN THE THIRD OF HIS SERIES OF FEATURES FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER, VISIONARY HAIR STYLIST AND SALON OWNER, ROBERT MASCIAVE SAYS THAT LISTENING TO YOURSELF AND TO OTHERS IS THE SECRET TO A SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSING CAREER. SOMETIMES IN LIFE WE NEED TO STOP TALKING AND LISTEN, NOT JUST TO OTHER PEOPLE BUT TO OURSELVES.
Learn to listen to yourself and others Listen to yourself Some of the biggest decisions in life, including those relating to careers, are made based on what we think we should do rather than what we want to do, which is usually a big mistake. We need to learn to listen to our own inner voice, it will tell us what we genuinely want from life, what we like and don’t like. You won’t have a long and happy career doing something that you don’t enjoy. When I was young, I initially ignored my own inner voice, and started down a career path that wasn’t right for me. I grew up in an area where a lot of my contemporaries were going to technical college to learn to be electricians, so I followed them. A year into the course I realised it wasn’t for me. I decided to stick it out for another year and then make a decision. But before I even got to the end of the second year, one of my tutors asked me why I was on the course. At first, I took this as a criticism, but it wasn’t. The tutor could tell being an electrician wasn’t right for me. This was a case where listening to someone else and taking their comments onboard was the right thing to do. Creative career After thinking about what my tutor had said, I listened to my inner voice, and it told me that hairdressing would be a great career choice for me. I loved doing my own hair, I was 17 and a Punk. I realised that hairdressing would be a great way to be creative in a career and I liked the idea of making the people around me look cool! It all sounds naive now, but it was definitely the right decision and I have never stopped loving what I do. Having learnt to listen to my own inner voice, I can tell when other people aren’t listening to theirs. I once had an assistant working for me who did a good job in the salon, but was never interested in doing extra training. I could tell that there was something wrong. I spoke to her and said she could be honest with me, that her job was not at risk because she wasn’t doing anything wrong and was contributing to the salon. I asked her if she was happy being a hairdresser and she admitted that she wasn’t. She said she enjoyed looking after clients, but wasn’t that interested in learning hairdressing. I suggested she think about looking for another job where she would be happier. She went on to
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work for a major retailer and is now a manager and very happy. Listen to others Of course, as hairdressers, it is equally important to listen to others. During a client consultation, for example, before you offer any advice, ask an open question about how they feel about their hair, and then just listen. It’s only by listening that we will be able to offer what is right for that person. Once we have listened, we can also ask the right questions to get an even more detailed account of the client’s desires and needs. Using a broader understanding of the word listen, it’s also important to listen to what a client’s hair is telling us. As hairdressers you will get far more from a haircut if your follow the natural fall of the hair rather than trying to fight against it. Read between the lines Sometimes you need to listen beyond what a client is actually saying and read between the lines. For example, I once had a new client who I discovered was wearing a wig. She removed it and I saw that she actually had a fair amount of hair. She asked me to cut her wig for her. But before I did this, I asked her to tell me her story, and I listened. It turned out she had lost confidence in herself and her hair as it had become thinner. Having listened, I was able to reassure her that she had more than enough hair for me to create a very complementary style for her. At first she was cautious, but when I finished the cut, she loved it. She became a regular client after this. This was a great example of how what we do as hairdressers is far more than just cut or colour hair. A big part of our job is to tap into what people feel and this is why it is so important to listen. The result of listening in this case was that a client regained confidence in both herself and her hair, and we gained a loyal client. Often the role of a hairdresser involves psychology—the ability to listen and understand a client’s needs. This is something that is often said casually within the industry, but I strongly feel the psychology element of what we do as hairdressers should be taken more seriously. This is something I will discuss in more depth in a later issue.
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BUSINESS
OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF FOWLER35, DARREN FOWLER LOOKS AT THE BENEFITS OF LIFE COACHING TO A BUSINESS.
Coach trip I’ve been interested in personal development and how it can impact my business for many years. It started with an attraction to NLP (Neuro Linguistic Programming, which is basically understand how people produce the results they do) alongside regular attendance at courses by life and business strategist Tony Robbins, who uses NLP as a basis for his work. I started to bring some of the key learnings I had from self-study and courses into the business in our meetings and training sessions – for example looking at peoples’ values, beliefs, purpose and behaviours because these are all really important not just for the team and their personal and professional development, but for them to understand the clients they are working with. It became the foundation for what we were doing, especially as our focus is on creating characters and helping people to lean-in to being the character they really want to be. This work really helped us to understand our clients on a deeper level. Around 2014 I moved away from being a Clipso Salon to my own brand fowler35, and with that came big changes around how we operated as a business. Suddenly we had a business and brand manifesto and were doing things in a totally different way. I’d met a life coach on one of the courses I had been on and started working with him on envisioning the future of the business, and I realised what he had to offer could benefit the team because that’s his area of expertise. After all, a life coach is ‘a trained professional who aims to help and guide individuals to make, meet and exceed personal and professional goals’ (lifecoach-directory.org). Training sessions I developed a Leadership Programme for the senior team and he became part of our training sessions for all of the team, and worked alongside me to deliver the vision for fowler35. While group education is important, what I have come to realise from decades of managing people (and understanding myself to be honest) is that to be your very best you need to have a holistic approach to developing someone; mindset comes from what’s happened in people’s past and you can’t actually separate a person’s private and work life because they are totally interlinked. I put in place a plan where the team had access to 1-1 coaching that encompassed whatever they wanted to work on. Our life coach knew the plans for fowler35 as well as the team’s individual development goals and together they nurtured a coaching relationship that benefited themselves individually and therefore the business. It wasn’t easy bringing this into the business – there was resistance from some of the team, which is understandable. Some people will naturally be more suspicious of coaching, while others will embrace it with open arms – it just depends on people’s personalities and how much they are willing to grow. But you have to work with your team whatever stage they are at, and whatever their attitude, with the hope that it will benefit them in the long-run. As a result of the coaching our business is what I would call ‘in flow’. We all now have clarity around what our intentions and
goals are as a business; it’s opened up negotiations between us and how we communicate with each other. As a business owner it has given me way more clarity on my priorities which has been so impactful because as hairdressers running a business the priorities can seem endless! The brand is stronger and more secure because of it too – clients can actually feel the brand when they come into the studio, and it’s really helped us with client loyalty and delivering our numbers. However, as with all development it’s an ongoing process. The business is also growing and we’ve won two awards in the past year and finalised in two more. End justifies the means Some might see it as an extravagance to invest in having a personal coach for their team members however it works for us because we are not too big (we are a core team of around 10), and I can definitely say that the results justify the expense. Our business numbers continue to grow, and we are now recruiting more people into the business to deal with demand for our services. Now that we have everyone set up in the development system and understanding what the expectations are for the business we’ve moved to a voucher system for education and development. We set 5 KPIs per month each of these are met with an amount for training; because the team are clear on what their development objectives are either from a personal or professional point of view (remembering that both are interlinked) they can decide on what they want to spend their vouchers on. It could be more 1-1 coaching, or it might be a colour or business course. Looking for a coach can be tricky; success comes down to finding someone that you connect with. There are lots of resources online like www.lifecoach-directory.org.uk which not only lists coaches but also has information on all of the professional coaching bodies. But before diving into finding a coach, you need to be clear about what you want – for example I wanted someone who could straddle both business and spiritual areas because that’s very much my ethos. A lot of people call themselves coaches, but always make sure you have someone who has qualified from a reputable coaching institution, and who can impact your business in the way you need it too. Many coaches come with years of experience working in business themselves before re-training so there can be a lot of choice and talent out there to choose from. It does not all have to be about life-coaching and finding someone from outside of the industry to help you improve. I find that through my work teaching, I am doing more coaching and that is one of the reasons I set up the Fowler Hair Academy. I think having someone coach you who understands what you are going through as a hairdresser can really help. For anyone wanting to take their business to the next level, or who needs to coach their team through a time of change, I can definitely recommend taking on a life coach; fowler35 would not be where it is today without integrating one into the fabric of the business.
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S U S T A i N A B L E
GREEN QUEEN
KARINE
Our resident environmental campaigner KARINE JACKSON has been championing her mission to go single use plastic-free and this month she explores how sustainability is going mainstream.
I’m writing this the day after watching the BAFTAs which pledged to go carbon neutral this year and teamed up with the London College of Fashion to send guests information on how to dress sustainably. The sustainable fashion guide encouraged attendees to either re-wear something they already own or hire an ensemble as opposed to buying something new. It also urged them to make the most of rental fashion sites, such as Hurr Collective, By Rotation and My Wardrobe HQ, or source clothing from resale outlets like Vestiare Collective and Depop, or to buy from sustainable fashion brands, such as Stella McCartney and Reformation, which are renowned for using innovative eco-friendly materials. I’ve got to admit, my first thought was a bit cynical — are they really sustainable at all?! But this is actually a great demonstration of what I’m always telling people — baby steps are the way to get started in sustainability. A spokesperson for BAFTA said: “Sustainability is very important to BAFTA, and we’re doing more than ever before.” And that’s the point really — to do more than ever before. And then keep doing that. The spokesperson said, “Where sustainable choices are unable to be made, BAFTA is offsetting, as well as giving guests the tools to offset their own travel and make sustainable fashion choices.”
Milk matters In addition to encouraging guests to dress sustainably, the awards ceremony ditched goody bags and served a vegan starter and dessert in a bid to be more environmentally friendly, following in the footsteps of the Golden Globes which served an exclusively vegan meal during the ceremony, and the Oscars’ luncheon which was also entirely plant-based. I think it’s really interesting for our industry to see how others are tackling their approach to sustainability at events like this — we love an awards night don’t we?! And they demonstrate that we want to keep living our lives a certain way — we’re not all going to stop shopping and return to living off the land, so we need to find a compromise between living comfortably and enjoying life, and wrecking the planet with indulgent conveniences. So well done to BAFTA for making their baby steps in the public eye and encouraging people to think about their own choices. I’ve been re-examining some of my own choices at the salon, where we’ve switched up our milk alternative. When I started offering vegan milk and snacks at the salon I thought all vegan milk was equal, however, a brilliantly
researched article in The Guardian that compared various milks (including dairy) for sustainability got me to rethink this. A glass of dairy milk produces almost three times more greenhouse gas than any plant-based milk, and the feature says that choosing plant milk instead of animal milk is the best environmental choice you can make. However, almond milk (which we were serving) is not healthy for the planet and is especially hard on bees. The Guardian reported: ‘While almond trees occupy smaller amounts of farmland compared with other crops grown for milk, this benefit is overshadowed by the negative impacts of almond farming in the US. Concentrated almost entirely in California’s arid Central Valley, almonds are the largest specialty crop in the US and the orchards cover a region the size of Delaware. ‘Almonds require more water than any other dairy alternative, consuming 130 pints of water to produce a single glass of almond milk, according to an Oxford study. Satisfying continual demands for larger almond crops is also placing unsustainable pressures on US commercial beekeepers. Nearly 70% of commercial bees in the US are drafted every spring to pollinate almonds. Last year, a record number — over one-third of them – died by season’s end as a result of these pressures and other environmental threats.’ That’s 50bn commercial bee deaths, just for almond milk. Yikes! Oat milk on the other hand performs very well on all sustainability metrics, and the paper says ‘it’s unlikely that there will be unintended environmental consequences that emerge when the scale of oat milk use gets larger. Currently, 50 to 90% of global oat production goes into animal feed, so there’s a huge existing acreage that we can safely steal share from without moving the needle at all on total production.’ Oats are grown in cooler climates such as the northern US and Canada, so aren’t associated with deforestation in developing countries. It’s also amazingly easy to make, which means you could also bypass the packaging that it comes in, and I had great fun making some and posting the results on our social media to draw clients’ attention to our change. This just goes to show that the more focus is put onto educating around sustainability in the press, whether from the journalists directly or from initiatives that they’re reporting on, the easier it’ll become for us all to keep making those baby steps in the right direction. Do you offer vegan milk alternatives in your salon? Let us know - tag us on social @prohairmag and @karinemjackson for a shout out!
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SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Freehand Specialist Freehand colouring is a technique that’s here to stay – but are you clued up on all the skills needed to master creative colour application? This one-day course is dedicated to the art of commercial colour, including creative balayage techniques, face-framing placement and the art of ombré. Working with one of our Schwarzkopf Professional ambassadors, you’ll cover all of the essentials required to create fast, commercial, freehand colour and leave inspired with new ways to create salon-friendly looks bespoke to each client. 6th April, Glasgow Book online at, www.askacademy.co.uk
ALFA ITALIA Evolution of Cutting Do your clients want volume without any layers? Or do they have so much hair that creating a great shape on a bob seems to take all day? This course introduces the concept of Evo-Layering scissors so revolutionary that just adding them to your tool kit replaces the need for traditional layer cutting and manual point cutting with a solid blade. In addition to this you’ll be introduced to the Soft Cut scissor, perfect for reducing weight and blending sections together. These scissors will revolutionise the way that you cut hair forever. 31st March, Sheffield Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk
NHBF Salonfocus2020 Salonfocus2020 is an all-day training event for salons and barbershops. Industry experts will share their in-depth knowledge and expertise to ensure delegates have the 20/20 vision they need to build successful businesses into the future. Delegates attend an inspirational keynote presentation on boosting retail sales, plus four further sessions from a choice of 12, and a live panel discussion. This fantastic value-for-money day includes breakfast, lunch, coffee breaks and a goody bag. 27 April, Birmingham Call, 01234 831965 or book online at, www.nhf.info/birmingham2020
WELLA PROFESSIONALS Blonde Toolbox Blonde Toolbox will help you to maximise the potential of blonde clients by delivering a couture service and perfect results. This advanced one-day course will enable you to create personalised blonde colour that attracts new clients and keeps existing ones coming back. You’ll learn how to satisfy blonde colour needs, understand the potential of the full blonde spectrum, discover colour products and techniques to create couture blondes and develop home maintenance packages that ensure your blondes are walking adverts for your salon. 18th March, Manchester Email, wellastudiomanchester@cotyinc.com
TONI&GUY Salon Foundation: Cutting TONI&GUY’s salon foundation cutting course has been created to upgrade, strengthen and improve your core cutting techniques. It’s been designed for stylists in the final stages of training who wish to gain more confidence in their skills; stylists wanting to perfect specific elements of their education, and for aspiring salon staff trainers who wish to learn fundamental cutting techniques – the aim is to reinforce your confidence and to grow and develop your current abilities. 14th April, London Email, courses@toniandguy.co.uk
WELLA PROFESSIONALS Appraisal for Performance If you’re a salon owner who has a desire to improve the way you are conducting performance appraisals, this course is for you. Appraisal for Performance has been created to help salon owners to set realistic targets and expectations for everyone in the salon. You’ll get guidance and support to help you feel more prepared, confident and ensure you get the most out of those meetings for both your staff and your salon. 21st April, London Email, welastudiolondon@cotyinc.com
SASSOON ACADEMY Sassoon Blondes Colour choice, application and technique is key to achieving blonde perfection. Sassoon’s will help you achieve this through guided hands-on sessions and insightful demonstrations. With so many colours in the blonde portfolio, Sassoon’s will teach you all you need to know about depth and tone, warm and cool skin tones. You’ll see demonstrations, take part in practical colour sessions on live models and learn bleaching and toning techniques including variations of total and partial techniques. 3rd August, London Book online at, www.sassoon-academy.com
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Advanced Cutting Inspirations Personal inspiration is key to staying at the top of your game. Spark your creativity and take home lots of ideas from this one-day course in which L’Oréal guest artists share the winning cutting techniques that set them apart from the rest. For advanced hairdressers experienced in cutting, you’ll learn the hottest cutting trends, how to interpret these into you own shapes and styles and how to balance shapes and styles with face structures and hair textures. 20th March, Glasgow Email, coursesuk@loreal.com
ALAN HOWARD Column Building Course (How to Earn More Money) How do you manage your column? This three-hour course will teach you how to fill those white spaces, make your column productive, earn you more money and ultimately give your clients a better service. It’ll encourage you to think differently, look at the bigger picture and work smarter, not harder. 24th March, Sheffield Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk
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