Professional Hairdresser April 2023

REGULARS

7FIRST WORD

8HEADLINES

10COLOUR MEMO

12STYLE MEMO

13SUSTAINABLE MEMO

14BUSINESS MEMO

16WOMAN TO WOMAN

Karoliina Saunders interviews

female role models

21HAIR ME OUT

Andrew Barton reacts

62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson shares his diary

64VISIT

Stil Chelsea

665 MINUTES WITH…

Luke Ormsby

BUSINESS

18CRISIS TALKS

Money, money, money

23THE BUSINESS OF BRIDES

With Teresa Weller

24PHIL-ING IN THE BLANKS

With Phil Smith

25CONOR JAMES DOYLE

27STYLIST vs CYBORG

MEMO:

WOMAN TO WOMAN: Ellie Bond

REVERIE Special Partnership with Schwarzkopf and Hooker & Young

48

PORTFOLIO:

62

BOOKED..!

64

VISIT:

TENTS

SPECIAL

28CHOP IT LIKE IT’S HOT Short chic for summer

32SPECIAL PARTNERSHIP with Schwarzkopf Professional and Hooker & Young

REVERIE

PORTFOLIO

42Melissa Timperley

46WELOVE

48Rainbow Room International

58

PRODUCTS

52DROPPED Latest Products

54STEP BY STEP

Denman

56STEP BY STEP

Great Lengths

58LOVE ELECTRICAL

Alfa Italia

61COLOUR CLOSE-UP ASP

Lustre by Rainbow Room International

Luke Benson shares his diary

Stil Chelsea

Top of the Chops

There’s no better place to debut new hair than on the red carpet, and for 2023, events like the BAFTAs and the Oscars have provided a shopping list of styles for clients looking for a super-wearable new cut or style. With the likes of Hailey Bieber, Zendaya and Lily James rocking short chic, it promises to be a summer of love for shorter styles – check out our choice of the chops on page 28.

If you’re looking for fresh blonde inspo in time for summer, this month’s special partnership with Hooker & Young and Schwarzkopf Professional on page 33, sees the uber talented Gary Hooker & Michael Young producing some hauntingly beautiful, stunning colour results using the BLONDME range. Also, be sure to look out for the accompanying digital supplement for a deeper dive into this ethereal collection and the BLONDME range which will be landing in your inbox later this month. If you haven’t signed up to receive our digital offerings via email, go to www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk and be the first to receive up-to-the-minute, exclusive content on all things industry related. Enjoy the issue!

@PROHAIRMAG Q @PROHAIRMAGWWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Editor

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

PARTNERS IN CRAFT

PHOTOGRAPHY:Michael

Designer Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Group Sales Manager Ray Suitters rsuitters@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799

Fax: 01923 246901

23,208 • July 21 –June 22

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©2023 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

HAIR:Gary Hooker and Michael Young

Young

HEADLINES

MARK LEESON WINS INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR

In a top-secret, live-streamed prizegiving, the Mark Leeson Artistic Team has been named International Artistic Team of the Year 2023 at the International Hairdressing Awards. Shortlisted by an international jury panel, the finalists represent countries across the world and demonstrate the very best in global hairdressing.

COS SAKKAS NAMED INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2023

TONI&GUY Global Creative Director and current British Hairdresser of the Year, Cos Sakkas, has been named International Hairdresser of the Year at a surprise reveal in London. Presented by International Hairdressing Awards Global Ambassador Sergi Bancells and Founder Mikel Luzea, Cos won the title for the second consecutive year.

ALLEN ANNOUNCED AS AMBASSADOR

Nick Allen, Managing Director at Banbury Postiche, is proud to announce his new position as an Ambassador for The Little Princess Trust. Through its widespread network, Banbury Postiche has played a leading role in the charity’s wig-making cooperative for over ten years.

THE WINNER TAKES IT ALL

The HOB Creative Team have been named winners of the AIPP Best Commercial Collection of the Year. Consisting of Akin Konizi, Jake Unger and Nestor Sanchez, the team won the global award with a collection that showcased wearable, fashionable and eye-catching styling.

MAKING THE MOVE FOR THE CRAFT

Schwarzkopf Professional education ambassador, Philipp Haug, recently appeared on television in his native Germany, sharing the story of his career in hairdressing and successful relocation to London. As a proudly German company, Schwarzkopf is a natural fit for Philipp, who will be teaching cut and colour courses both at home and internationally.

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE CLASS OF 2023!

L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, along with 300 attendees, gathered in London recently to celebrate those who

BACK WITH A BANG!

After a long awaited three years, the Rainbow Room International team were thrilled to be back hosting their annual Congress last month. Commenting on the evening, Co-Founder Linda Stewart said, “It was really great bringing everyone back together again and celebrating the success of the group over the past few years.

BARTON BAGS THE BOARD

The Fellowship has announced Andrew Barton’s new role on its Executive Board, a welcome addition to the team which is led by CEO Barry Stephens and President Robert Eaton. With a passion for all things hair, Andrew brings with him a wealth of experience and knowledge across every sector of the industry.

AN EASI DECISION

Having worked alongside each other throughout 2022, Hair Made Easi are delighted to report its official partnership with Little Lady Locks. As a registered charity, Little Lady Locks is dedicated to helping children and young people experiencing hair loss and Hair Made Easi is committed to help this worthy cause.

Your Invisible Best Friend

Introducing the Brown Covering Dry Shampoo from Roze Avenue. Besides removing excess oils and impurities from the hair, the shampoo adds a visible brown shade to the roots, resulting in a matte, fresh, finished look between colour appointments.

www.rdr.link/HAH001

TICKLED PINK

Promise your clients an always-fresh salon colour with the Color Fresh Masks from Wella Professionals Offering a winning combination of colour and care to revive hair in just ten minutes, this vibrant shade of pink is perfect for a visible colour transformation that will fade beautifully and remain true-to-tone.

www.rdr.link/HAH002

PERFECT

Pulp Riot Artist Heather Shaw offers her top tips for creating picture-perfect pastels:

● To create the perfect pastel result you need to properly pre-lighten the hair –ideally to a level 9 or 10.

● Always pre-tone when needed. It’s so worth it and will truly elevate your results. By not pre-toning, you’ll find that soft lilacs can end up neutralising your base and almost disappearing.

● Trust the process and let appropriate?

Trend Spotting with Alex Thaddeus: Dopamine Hair Colour

(above) is set to be the hottest hair trend in 2023, and what’s the best thing about it? It’s all about YOU!

Dopamine is the hormone that allows us to feel satisfaction and pleasure, so this trend is all about tapping into not only what makes you look good, but what makes you feel good too. Think bright, bold colours applied all-over, combined with eye-catching panels and vibrant pops. Right now, pinks, corals and lilacs are certainly having their moment in the salon; already this year, we have seen an enormous increase in Pantone’s Viva Magenta, an incredibly saturated, dopamine colour!

Alex Thaddeus

Bringing Blonde Back to Life

Revive softness and reawaken salon-fresh blonde colour with the Blonde Revival range from Aveda. Featuring a purple toning shampoo and conditioner, the 96% naturally-derived, vegan, and silicone-free system is formulated to neutralise brassy tones for a bright, beautiful blonde result.

www.rdr.link/HAH003

To create this look, I did back-to-back babylights with foilayage, using Olaplex throughout the process. I then applied a moisture treatment and toned the hair with Pastel Pink from Directions. To finish, I applied two packs of lilac coloured tape extensions.

SILKY, STRONG AND SUPER-SOFT

In a bid to meet modern needs, Kerasilk has reimagined its products, ingredients and manufacturing to create more sustainable alternatives. Using Silk+ Technology, Kerasilk’s new Essentials Color Protecting Shampoo and Conditioner beautifully rejuvenate hair and prevent vibrant colour from premature fading.

www.rdr.link/HAH004

Playful and lively, this disconnected layered cut contrasts its softly-cut lengths with the eye-catching shorter hair on top. Cool blonde shades have been added as highlights just below the parting, providing more structure to the longer sections; the consistent colour also has a calming effect on the layering on top of the head.

– LA BIOSTHETIQUE SS23

Hair: Robbie Purves and Khaliegh Sullivan

Make-Up: Cori Burnett Photography Gabriela Silveira

– PACO LATORRE, DIRECTIONS HAIR COLOUR AMBASSADOR

GRAB YOURSELF A GOLDEN TICKET

Level up your fade game with the Cordless Gold Magic Clip from WAHL. Encased in golden hardware, the powerful motor and diamond-like carbon coating ensure blades stay cooler and rust-resistant. www.rdr.link/HAH006

A SPRING VISION

From the La Biosthétique SS23 Trend Collection, this freehand, scissor-cut shape is bold and eye-catching. With expressive dynamics, the narrowly styled triangular shape emphasises the hair contours, complete with a mix of cool and warm brown shades to give the look a calm and natural feeling.

Summer Loving

As part of its new Spring/Summer collection, Balmain Hair Couture presents its Riviera Volume Set Including the Volume Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave in Conditioning Spray, the range promises to retain the hair’s volume and shine, even in the humid weather.

www.rdr.link/HAH005

MICRO FRINGES: NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED!

This month, we caught up with multi-award-winning Italian stylist, Danilo Giangreco, for his top tips on the latest cutting trend:

“Micro fringes are a statement and require a lot of confidence to be worn. Always remind the client that a micro fringe takes twice as long to grow out, so they need to be 100% sure it’s what they want!

The style generally suits clients with long or oval faces, so I’d recommend a messier, shorter fringe if the client’s face is more round.

Your micro fringe should look effortless. It’s so important to use the right products; a good primer and a vent brush will help you a lot!”

Braidipedia

In collaboration with ADI Education and ALTERNA Europe, last month saw the annual ‘Braidipedia’ workshop held in Italy. Taught by Alterna Creative Brand Ambassador, Sabrina Dijkman, the event educated stylists on how to transition creative looks into the salon. Having spent her career establishing a hairdressing niche – beautiful braids with a contemporary twist – Sabrina uses the workshops to pass on expert advice in a unique, intimate, group setting. The annual workshop returns in February 2024.

Green Guidelines

This month, we caught up with Santiago Figueroa, Owner of Santi’s London Aveda Salon, on his top tips for making sustainable choices on the salon floor:

✔ Use Carbon and CO2 negative toilet paper.

✔ Recycle the un-recyclable with the Green Salon Collective. (For anything that cannot be sent to the Green Salon Collective, we use the waste management company First Mile.)

✔ Offer environmentally-friendly

✔ Use Eco Parcel Tape which is paper-based and free from animal products. (All of our packaging is biodegradable.)

Unfortunately, sometimes making more sustainable decisions can result in a higher cost, but despite this, we still choose to prioritise the

Sustainable

Vegan Healing

Inspired by Kintsukuroi, a Japanese word describing the art of repairing broken pottery with gold lacquer, Original & Mineral introduces its Project Sukuroi Gold Smoothing Balm. Originating from the camelina plant, and with a natural blend of organic coconut and macadamia oils, the blends offer multiple reparative benefits. And, through its entirely vegan alternative to natural Keratin, the hydrolised vegetable proteins reduce split ends by strengthening, rebuilding and smoothing the hair.

www.rdr.link/HAH007

COLOUR WITH A CONSCIENCE

Goldwell has annouced the launch of its brand-new Topchic Zero in May 2023, the latest addition to its permanent in-salon colour range. From the vegan formula that contains up to 94% naturally derived ingredients to the sustainably sourced packaging that is made from up to 100% recycled materials, Topchic certainly contributes to the fight against global warming and promotion of sustainability.

Delivering natural-looking, even colour results and incredibly shiny hair, all Topchic products are also climate neutral. www.rdr.link/HAH008

POWER OF EVERY DROP

Aveda continues its mission to provide clean water across the globe with its annual Earth Month campaign. Since launching the campaign in 1999, Aveda has raised more than $69 million, providing clean water to more than 1.5 million people and protecting thousands of local watersheds. Together with Charity:Water, Aveda continues to provide clean water, sanitation and hygiene to people in need during Earth Month 2023. To help raise funds

www.rdr.link/HAH009

Processing Payments on the Go

In recent business news, a new app has been launched to help mobile hairdressers with processing payments more quickly. The app, called reduce funding delays and assist with cashflow management, instantly transforming any Android phone into a card payment machine without the need for additional hardware. Through being able to process card payments within an hour, the new platform will significantly reduce the funding delay experienced by most mobile businesses when using conventional payment acceptance devices. More information about tapeeno and how to apply can be found here: www.rdr.link/HAH010

business

ENLIST,

ENCOURAGE,

EDUCATE

Andrew Barton London Education (ABLE) has announced a new partnership with Coleg Gwent – one of the largest and top performing further education colleges in Wales. At a time when the industry is seeing a decrease in the number of apprentices, ABLE hopes to attract a younger workforce through supporting colleges in expanding their offerings and positioning hairdressing as a lucrative career. The partnership with ABLE launched at Coleg Gwent’s Open Event in March, where the college team spoke to prospective students about the opportunities and benefits a career in hairdressing can offer.

THE HOME SALON’S BEST KEPT SECRET

A stylish platform dedicated to raising standards in the home salon industry, The Secret Salon Club is now live and ready to support home salons across the UK. Working with salon owners, the website functions to showcase individual excellence and skill through listing services, prices, salon features and images. And, with a growing list of brand partners, the platform offers its members a range of tailored courses, from improving business acumen to lessons in eye-catching branding.

BOSSIN itwith

JackKilpatrick

BLONDE THE NAME’S

In our fast-paced, ever-evolving industry, there are always new skills to acquire; to avoid getting left behind, it is crucial to constantly upgrade your services. Since lightening services count for over a third of all colour appointments, enrolling in Wella’s Blonde Expert Programme, brand new for 2023, offers an excellent footing from which to firmly cement your salon success.

ADVANCED / £185 / 1 DAY / PRACTICAL: HEADBLOCK

WHEN

London: 27th June, 21st August, 26th September

Manchester: 30th May, 25th July, 11th September

‘Blonde Expert Part 1’ focuses on global applications, with the course including product choice, technique and an in-depth practical workshop on toning.

YOU WILL LEARN:

● How to get a flawless lift.

● Hints and tips on creating reliable results.

● When to use Blondor and Special Blonde.

● How to select the correct

● Tips on showcasing your work through social media.

NEW BLONDE EXPERT TO BOOK, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR

SAVE 20% BY BOOKING THESE 2 COURSES AS A PACKAGE, ALONG WITH OUR OTHER NEW LIGHTENING COURSE ‘LIGHTS & TONE’ AS PART OF THE BLONDE SPECIALIST PROGRAMME.

NEW BLONDE EXPERT PART 2

ADVANCED / £185 / 1 DAY / PRACTICAL: MODEL

WHEN:

London: 28th June, 22nd August, 27th September

Manchester: 31st May, 26th July, 12th September

IS IT FOR YOU?

IS IT FOR YOU?

If you’d like to gain confidence and take the guesswork out of this salon-essential service, this is the perfect start for you!

CHOSEN WELLA STUDIO:

LONDON: 0203 650 4700, WELLASTUDIOLONDON@WELLA.COM

MANCHESTER: 0161 834 2645, WELLASTUDIOMANCHESTER@WELLA.COM

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ALL AVAILABLE WELLA STUDIO COURSES, DOWNLOAD THE 2023 EDUCATION BOOK FROM WELLA.CO.UK/EDUCATIONBOOK

‘Blonde Expert Part 2’ introduces more challenging blonde scenarios and more advanced lightening trends, as well as how to avoid common mistakes.

YOU WILL LEARN:

● New trends and techniques such as platinum card foiling.

● Practical knowledge in a hands-on demonstration with a live model.

● Unique, specific skillsets through participating in a root melt workshop.

If you’re already undertaking scalp bleach services or have completed the Blonde Toolbox or Blonde Expert Part 1 course, this is your natural next step.

© Jordanna Cobella

In this series, we invited Karoliina to catch up with some of the established and emerging female role models that are breaking boundaries, challenging perceptions and providing incredible inspiration for our future generation of stylists. Enjoy her in-depth chats on life, work and all things HAIR!

This issue, Karoliina sits down with ELLIE BOND

WOMAN TO WOMAN

HI ELLIE, TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN HAIRDRESSING AND WHERE DID YOUR JOURNEY START?

I didn’t get into hairdressing until I was 22 years old. I studied art at college and then I worked in retail, bars etc. I lived in Australia for a while and when I came back I decided I wanted to get into hairdressing, mainly because I wanted a trade I could travel with. I didn’t qualify for an apprenticeship because I was too old, so instead I paid for a full-time course at college. When I finished, I got a job at a salon in Brentwood. Although I’d done my course, I didn’t have an NVQ, so I had some fast-track training and after five years I ended up as Creative Director at the salon.

YOU WERE PART OF THE FELLOWSHIP

F.A.M.E TEAM, HOW DID YOU FIND THE YEAR IN THE TEAM AND WHAT BENEFITS DID IT GIVE TO YOUR CAREER?

I suppose the biggest thing is that it opened up my eyes to the fashion and session world. In that year, we had so many amazing experiences, even getting to work backstage with Eugene Souleiman at Fashion Week.

KAROLIINA

SAUNDERS is a salon owner, educator, session stylist, multi-award winner, Revlon Creative Artist and current Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Her love of fashion has taken her all over the world through a jam-packed line-up of stage, photographic, editorial and session work, as well as working backstage at all the major Fashion Weeks.

@karoliinasaunders

IT’S SUCH AN AMAZING SPRINGBOARD ISN’T IT. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO GET IN THE TEAM?

I’d say go for it. When I applied, I never thought for a minute I’d get in. Don’t be scared or think it’s out of reach – it was an amazing experience for me and gave me confidence and experiences I never thought were possible.

WHAT MADE YOU GO INDEPENDENT AND CHOOSE A CAREER IN SESSION WORK?

After my year in the F.A.M.E Team, I knew that I wanted to go down that route. I became a first assistant to Nick Irwin and that helped me learn so much. I think if

session is your path, you have to commit to it fully. I have absolutely no regrets about leaving full-time salon life behind.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR GREATEST ADVICE TO ANYONE WHO IS THINKING ABOUT BECOMING A SESSION STYLIST?

Don’t expect to go in at the top. Actually, you’ll get much further if you start out assisting. Ideally, work with a variety of people; it’s invaluable experience and you’ll learn so much. It’s important to have some kind of financial backup or savings; work doesn’t come in all the time and some of the best opportunities like test shoots and editorial are unpaid.

WHAT DOES YOUR WORKING WEEK LOOK LIKE? DO YOU WORK IN A SALON AT ALL OR SOLELY DO SESSION?

It’s mainly session work, but I still have a few clients who I see at The Rubicon in Hackney, which is a great little set-up. My schedule is all over the place and often very last minute, but I couldn’t go back to an employed position. Every week or day

HOW MUCH OF AN IMPORTANT PART DO YOU THINK SOCIAL MEDIA PLAYS IN OUR INDUSTRY?

On a personal level, I’m not a big fan of social media, but I see how it has massive benefits professionally. For me, it’s a portfolio and lots of my work comes to me through my social. For freelancers, it’s a great way to have a presence and I see so many amazing people utilising it well.

HOW DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR CREATIVE WORK?

It’s everywhere! I’m a big fan of referencing and research. Whether it’s magazines, books, online, social media, I’m always collecting ideas. When I’m on set, I also get inspired by clothes, make-up, styling, they all help to feed my creativity.

IF YOU HAD TO SUM IT UP, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR WORK?

I would say my work style is raw, undone, a bit of a punk vibe. I’m not a big fan of ‘pretty’ hair or anything too polished or glam. There’s a fine line between being natural and being too messy and dishevelled, but I hope I manage it!

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PRODUCT IN YOUR KIT BAG?

Well, I carry loads so choosing one is hard!! It would probably be L’Oréal Tecni Art Fix Max Gel. I like working with gels and this one sets the hair hard, which is great for strong looks but if you wet it, you can reshape the hair, so it’s adaptable too.

WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE TO ANYONE WHO WOULD LIKE TO WORK BACKSTAGE AT FASHION WEEK?

You either need to start messaging the agencies and get your name out there or decide who you want to work with and get in touch with them directly. Be bold – tell them you want to be part of their team. And keep on it!

HOW COULD WE MAKE OUR INDUSTRY MORE ATTRACTIVE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE TO JOIN?

When I started out, I had no idea how many possibilities a career in hair could bring. I thought hairdressing would be a lifetime of cutting hair and doing blow-dries. But there’s so much more to it.

These endless opportunities need to be promoted and talked about more in colleges and schools. Kids don’t know the amount of pathways a career in hair can take you on.

HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOUR SELFCARE AND WHAT DOES THAT LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

I’ve figured out that I need to eat healthy and work out to look after myself. I’m not always good at taking time off, but I know I need to so I don’t burn out! Creatives need time to recharge.

WHO ARE YOUR HAIR HEROES YOU

of course, Pablo Kuemin, who I work with a lot – his wig work is insane –and Holli Smith, a huge inspiration and leading female in the fashion industry.

WHAT IS YOUR TREND PREDICTION FOR THIS YEAR?

I’m seeing a lot more bobs and French bobs – girls cutting their hair off, which I’m loving. On the whole though, we’re embracing natural hair and texture so much more.

AND FINALLY, IN THREE WORDS, DESCRIBE WHAT THIS YEAR WILL BRING YOU…

Crisis TALKS

Money Changes Everything

Money Makes the World go Round

What is really important to think about is not projecting your future and/or financial worries onto members of the team. It may feel cathartic for the owner to unburden onto their employees who can be seen as ‘friends’, but it can also make employees feel very insecure. Terry’s tip: unload at home!

When deciding what is important and what can be put on hold, the question you need to ask yourself is – what is it that you really can or can’t do without? For example: you do need stock, no question, but do you really need to have the radio on constantly and pay an ever-increasing annual music license fee? Or can you download atmospheric ‘royalty free’ music?

Sometimes a salon owner will see advanced education as a cost they could really do without and the first thing to be put on hold. This is where a leap of faith is needed; can you be the salon in your area that offers career enhancing opportunities with staff loyalty and positive attitudes? Removing this can be disheartening, but it is still a costly outgoing if it continues! So, if you’ve placed education on hold due to cashflow, sit down with your staff and education providers and all plan together how to send team members (maybe in rotation) on courses that will really benefit the salon with the provision that they deliver what they’ve learned on their return to the team. The plus side to this reintroduction is that it will boost morale and the cost can still be tax deductible.

It can be easy to put things on hold when there’s a recession or cost of living crisis, however, it doesn’t always need to be an ‘either or’ situation. So, rather than putting on whole team events, for example, they can just be reduced. In previous years when things were really good, we would take our teams on trips abroad – but last year we held a picnic in the park and although not quite as glamorous, it was fun and still had the benefit of getting everyone together in a non-work environment. Whilst some salons have no shortage of clients, but lack skilled stylists –so investing in recruitment would be essential –other salons have stylists but not enough clients to keep everyone busy –so then it would make sense to invest in good effective marketing. There is rarely a singular solution to fit all, but owners need to develop a thoughtful strategy that’s right for their own business. More often than not, if you need to reduce costs during tough times, it’s natural to increase them during stronger times and this is usually the right thing to do. Of course, if there is an obvious wastage, then it stays on hold – but in most instances the business will be built on certain pillars such as marketing, teamwork, client service, financial control etc –and when times are good, it is important to invest in building the best possible systems to keep the business strong and of course, leave it in a good place for the rainy days.

Matrix Artist Ambassador

seanhanna salon group for L’Oréal Professionnel

Sean Hanna

This month, we spoke to some experienced salon owners about surviving the cost-of-living crisis and what is really important.

Terry Longden

Money on My Mind

Room 97 Creative

The most important thing any salon owner can do is focus. Focus on what is important – getting bums on seats, getting clients through the door, keeping your team engaged and happy. While it’s nice to attend events or enter competitions, what value do these bring to your business? During tougher times, you need to have your eye on the ball more than ever. Know what’s coming in and what’s going out; you may need to pause some additional services for a few months or look at new distributors or utility companies. Try not to think short term but long term, think of where you want your business to be in two, five, and ten years time. It’s easy to make decisions that affect your short-term growth, but don’t forget about your business in years to come.

Let’s Make lots of Money

Charlie Miller for L’Oréal Professionnel

Each year our suppliers increase their prices, and minimum wage rates go up too.  So, it is essential that we review our pricing every year. Right now, with the electricity costs increasing, it is more important than ever to really review how much we increase our fees. Run a report on your computer system for how many services were done for the previous 12 months and work out how much extra money you would have if you increased by £1, £2, and £5 etc.  If you are VAT registered you need to remember to deduct this too, and also allow for stylist commission, national insurance, pensions, and any other big increases you are aware of. Doing this will give you the confidence to know your prices will support your business going forward, instead of not knowing and hoping it’s all going to be alright.

Money, Money, Money

HOB Salons

During the cost-of-living crisis, business owners need to look at all aspects of their business, especially KPIs –stock percentage, client retention, colour percentage and, above all, profitability. As a company, we have looked at our overheads and subsequently put certain aspects on hold such as magazines and team events. We’ve also looked at overall luxury expenses such as cleaners, credit card machines, sundries, stock, fresh flowers, and above all our petty cash expenses. What is really important at the moment is making sure your teams are happy and giving all your clients the best possible service and consultations. We want them to work smarter not harder. The time to reintroduce aspects to your business is when your business is in a more profitable position.

Money Talks

MODE Hair, Chipping Campden

Most of us have worked through at least one financial crisis during our careers – and we need to remember that we survived! It’s amazing how adaptable we all are, we just need to educate the younger generation that money doesn’t grow on trees, decisions are made for a reason and sometimes budgets need to be tightened. Cashflow is king during a recession, and while it’s tempting to ditch things like fresh flowers, be careful not to get rid of the things that make your business you.

Flowers, magazines, luxury refreshments – these are all part of the service your clients expect, so look at ways to cut back in areas they don’t see, such as utilities, stock, and other backroom expenses.

She Works Hard for the Money

Reds Hair and Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel

When things get tough as it is right now, have a good look at what’s going out of the bank. We recently bought the new Morpheus8 machine which cost us £65,000, so

I’ve had to pull the plug on our marketing and just concentrate on social media to save some money for now. The most important thing is cashflow –making sure you have money to pay wages at the end of the month. We got rid of our overdraft which was costing money. Look at your team and help them with their productivity and where they can improve.

Martin Crean

Clive Collins

Susan Hall

Marcello Moccia

Joshua Miller

A WORD FROM THE PRESIDENT

This year the focus is on these key areas:

● Securing further business support through the recession and cost of doing business crisis. This includes short and medium-term financial assistance, fairer taxation and a crack-down on tax-evading businesses.

● Addressing the skills crisis by securing further support on employer incentives for apprentices (particularly 16-18 and 19+ years to encourage more young people into the sector) and enhanced levels of funding for the Hair Apprenticeship Standards in the future.

● Supporting the regulation of aesthetics.

● Positioning the sector as making an important contribution to the economy in terms of financial value, wellbeing and a sustainable future, levelling up across the UK including in deprived areas, high streets and local communities, supporting youth employment and adult reskilling.

● Also promoting its role in social prescribing and acting as an addition or alternative to squeezed NHS services in a time of strain on public services.

Amanda says, “A lot of what we do happens behind the scenes, which many people may be unaware of, but it has a hugely positive effect on the industry.

In 2022, the NHBF secured wider distribution of the Additional Restrictions Grants (ARG) to personal care businesses and the setting up of the Close Contact Fund in Scotland in January. We helped secure extended support on energy bills through the Energy Bills Relief Scheme until March 2023.

In the November Autumn Statement, the Government responded to our calls when it announced business rates reform with a 75% discount on business rates. We also lobbied successfully for an amendment to the Health and Care Act, delivering a regulatory regime for aesthetic non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Most recently, we have been instrumental in delaying the introduction of TLevels until there is proper consultation with the industry.”

She continues, “It’s industry statistics and member feedback that help us achieve change. The Government needs to know these are industry-wide issues and our quarterly State of the Industry surveys have been instrumental in providing this crucial information. As President, I will work with the NHBF team to continue this great work and provide the day-to-day business support and services to help salons and barbershops to be successful and profitable.”

@nhbfsocial

Amanda Lodge-Stewart has been voted the new NHBF President. Here, she outlines the organisation’s commitment to constantly lobbying and talking to the UK Government on the issues that affect our industry.

HAIR ME OUT

s hairdressers, we are often approached by clients to support various fundraising campaigns. Although we may wish to support all of our clients –and it can be difficult to say no –these donations can add up considerably and may even put you in a difficult position.

Some years ago, I realised it was best if I focused on raising awareness and directly fundraising for the charities that were important to me. This meant I

Acould politely –and without embarrassment –turn down other requests.

One of my chosen charities is The Little Princess Trust. I was drawn to them not only because of the great work they do, but because of their specific relationship with hair.

The charity was set up in 2016 in memory of Hannah Tarplee, who two years earlier had been diagnosed with cancer and struggled with traumatic hair loss.

Hannah sadly passed, and her grieving parents felt the most fitting tribute was to create a

Due to the client’s generous donation, you may wish to consider the following to ensure they feel extra special and enjoy a great experience at the salon.

● Take before and after pictures and post them on your social media, tagging your client and the charity into your posts.

● Book a slightly longer appointment time to allow for a thorough consultation. This is usually a very big chop, so empathy is key to ensuring the client is happy with the end result, not just the donation of hair.

charity dedicated to providing wigs for children who have lost their hair through cancer treatment and other hair loss conditions. The Little Princess Trust was born, and the charity has now donated wigs to more than 14,000 young people.

The creation of a wig starts with a generous donation of hair by volunteers (our clients) who decide to cut their long locks. I’ve cut the hair of hundreds of these selfless supporters; it’s an anxious and exciting moment as they have often built up to it for months, desperately growing extra inches

to maximise their fundraising. Much of the hair needed by the charity is for longer wigs, so hair of 12 inches or more is cherished.

As the hair is so precious, we have created a step by step tutorial on how best to cut hair specifically for a donation.

● Get other people in the salon involved with the hair cutting. It’s kind to make them feel celebrated for doing such a good thing, a huge round of applause from the team and clients will add to the excitement.

● With such a transformation, the client will need advice on how to style their new look. Maybe offer an added colour or styling service to put them at ease.

Beyond creating and donating wigs, the LPT is now one of the most significant charity financers of childhood cancer research in the UK, committing more than £20 million to projects focused on finding kinder and more effective treatments.

Like me, you will have experienced clients cutting their hair for this incredible charity; we know that great hair completely transforms how

people look and feel, and the donations of these wigs makes such a huge difference both to the young patients and their families.

On behalf of LPT, thank you for reading this feature and for anything you have done to support the charity’s work. If you want to get involved please visit:

www.rdr.link/PHAH012

@officiallittleprincesstrust

IN THIS MONTH’S INSTALMENT OF HIS THOUGHT-PROVOKING SERIES, ANDREW BARTON LOOKS AT THE CHARITABLE OBLIGATIONS OF BEING A HAIRDRESSER AND HIS ROLE AS AN AMBASSADOR FOR THE LITTLE PRINCESS TRUST

Colourchameleon

Great Lengths has launched a brand-new training course designed to teach balayage-inspired techniques, using extensions in place of colour application.

The Balayage Blends course will be run by Beverley Rosser, founder of Rosser Hairdressing in Liverpool, a Great Lengths Elite status salon, and has been created to offer clients a chemical-free route to flawless balayage.

‘With the rise in popularity of balayage, many of my clients were increasingly asking to achieve unrealistic colour results in just one appointment. This course has been designed to achieve the unachievable, using the perfect blend of Great Lengths bonds to mimic the look of traditional hand-painted balayage. Not only that, but using extensions means that the service is chemical-free, ideal for clients who are wary of potential damage from colour and bleach. I’m so excited to share these techniques and showcase just another example of what can be achieved with Great Lengths extensions.’

Beverley Rosser

Aimed at Great Lengths certified stylists wishing to extend their expertise, the day-long course will teach attendees how to create the advanced Face Frame application method. The innovative technique uses Great Lengths bonds in contrasting shades to mimic the effect of balayage, without the need to colour the client’s hair.

Beverley will guide each student through a detailed practical of the Face Frame, providing advice on application, placement and creating the perfect blend, before they take home placement patterns for all three looks. Students are

model on the day.

Balayage Blends with Beverley Rosser costs £87.53 UK and €93.48 IRE (including a styling bag).

Confirmed dates for 2023 are: 3rd April Dublin, 17th April Liverpool, 5th June Glasgow, 19th June London. To book your space, please speak to the Great Lengths business support team on +44 (0) 113 216 3064.

https://www.greatlengths.com/en-gb/

THE BUSINESS ofBrides

In the fourth of our bridal series, Teresa Weller, Director of Teresa Weller Hair Art and thebridalhairartists.com, looks at why bridal shoots are key to marketing your business to brides in the local area and beyond.

A successful strategic, marketing love story always begins with a targeted audience and the bridal sector is no exception. A fairytale business strategy never happens by chance, but should be created in line with your brides’ needs, offering unlimited and unrivalled opportunities to expand within a sector that is fulfilling and lucrative in equal measure.

For this perfect partnership to flourish, it’s about understanding your customers, whilst building and maintaining your relationships with them. At thebridalhairartists.com, our over-arching aim is always to offer brides a bespoke approach to their wedding hair needs. While the words you use to promote your services are an essential ingredient, I’ve found that the recipe for styling success lies in creating bridal imagery that’s a true representation of your brand and offering. It relies on a thorough understanding of your bridal aesthetic and the type of clients you’re looking to attract. Once you know this, you can look at creating stunning photographic imagery to entice bridal hair clients your way.

SHOOT TO SCORE

We undertook our most recent bridal hair photographic shoot – Adore – last year with a view to showcasing it at our exhibition stand at The National Wedding Show in London, where we headed up and styled the hair for the two-day runway shows. Alongside this, we used it on marketing material and offers for the 60,000 visitors over the weekend, across our social media channels to work in synchronicity with the show, on bridal blogs, for advertisements in both local and national wedding press, as well as in editorial for both consumer and business-to-business publications. The return on investment was huge and made the process worth its weight in wedding gold. Here’s what to consider if you’re looking to do the same:

■ LOOK OF LOVE: Before you begin, you need to find a photographer, clothes stylist and make-up artist you can trust. It’s essential to work with a team that understands your vision, how you work, and is well-placed to get the most out of an often hugely pressurised day.

■ PIN IT TO WIN IT: Creating a mood board of looks on Pinterest means your team will be ‘on brand’. There’s no room for error, so ensure you communicate your vision before your shoot so everyone knows what’s expected on the day.

■ INSTA ATTRACTION: Brides are digitally obsessed, so shouting about your offering via your website and social media channels will pay. Instagram is the perfect partnership for this, offering the opportunity to connect with brides looking for that special stylist for their ‘big day’.

■ UNDER THE COVERS: Collaborating with the right local press means your work can gain additional coverage with clients who might not already know about you. Think of an angle that editors will fall in love with and pitch your ideas for blogs or online features that can set you apart from your competitors.

■ MARKET TRADERS: If you’ve already invested in a photographic shoot, ensure you have a yearly marketing strategy that incorporates luxury bridal advertising (if budgets allow), annual wedding fairs, bespoke branding and marketing, as well as window displays for your salon (if applicable). Yearly plans keep you on track, with progress charted weekly and monthly as you go.

■ TOGETHER FOREVER: Creating imagery for a bridal shoot can also help build your business portfolio alongside your client one. It can position you as credible and trend-led, specifically with vendors and local businesses who are looking to collaborate with style-focused, like-minded brands such as yours. While your bridal clients will be transient due to the nature of the business, referrals will ensure you go from strength to strength. Collaboration makes for perfect partnerships and can result in the fairytale ending your business deserves.

PHIL-ing

IN THE BL ANKS

Each month, businessman, award-winning salon owner and creator of two top-selling haircare ranges, Phil Smith, helps to fill in all the gaps in your business knowledge. From quick and easy ways to boost your profits, to totally rethinking your business, he’ll be sharing some of the most valuable lessons he’s learnt throughout the course of his successful career…

This issue… 5 ways to BOOST RETAIL SALES IN YOUR SALON

Let’s be honest, it’s getting harder to make retails sales in the salon. The rise of online stores and aggressive discounting –coupled with a tougher economic climate –means that sales are in shorter supply. However, selling products in your salon is not just a ‘nice sideline’, it’s an essential way to boost your bottom line. If you’re marketing and promoting effectively, a strong retail offering can add up to 20 to 30 per cent of your overall profits. To protect that income stream, it’s important to sell smart. Here’s how…

BE CHOOSY

The most important decision you’ll make is choosing a product line you truly believe in. Do you rate its performance, do you love its branding, is it good value for money? Also, does it align with your brand and vision? There’s no point going with a high-end, premium name when your niche is more mass market. The more you and your team swear by what you’re advocating, the more you’ll sell. Simple.

STRIKE THE BEST DEAL

Negotiate your terms with your product suppliers. You’re the customer here and you need to strike the best deal or shop around. Once you’ve signed on the dotted line, it’s important to assess things annually and re-negotiate if you need to –just like you would with a rent review. Also, ask if they offer performance-related retro payments? This way, the more you sell, the more you’ll get back.

INCENTIVISE YOUR TEAM

1 4 5 £ 3 2

Get your team on board with retail sales and make it worth their while to shift stock. In my experience, people won’t bother to sell something for nothing, so I incentivise my team with 25 per cent of every sale. It’s ultimately money in your pocket too. Educate your team on products and performance. Your suppliers should be offering training, so make sure you access this to keep your team knowledgeable and up-to-date. When they start genuinely raving about a product, your clients will be far more likely to buy it.

CREATE A SHOWCASE

For the ultimate customer experience, your clients need to see, touch, smell and enjoy the products you’re recommending. Equally – and this is a massive obsession of mine – your retail display should look immaculate. Position it prominently in the salon and make sure your clients can pick up and browse every product. It goes without saying that your products should be clearly labelled, priced, dusted, and aligned.

KEEP YOUR STOCK UNDER CONTROL

Never keep more stock than you need. Products in your store cupboard instead of on the shelves hurt your cashflow by tying up unnecessary funds. Advanced salon systems these days make stock control easier than ever. You should know what’s coming in, what’s going out and when you need to re-order. Assess and review regularly which are your big sellers and cut any products that are taking up space but not making you enough money.

HANDLING COMPLAINTS

In the first of a 2-part series, Content Creator Conor JamesDoyle of Conor James Education delves into how to deal with tricky situations.

I can already sense eyeballs rolling, but the subtle art of handling a complaint is entirely dependent on how well you set up your prevention; it’s the precursor to your complaint management. I promise if you tick all the boxes below, those tetchy redos will not only be wildly less frequent, but easier to resolve too.

PREVENTION TACTICS

How you set the space for the following is absolutely critical:

■ Expectations

■ Variability

■ Process

It can change your appointment from a disasterous ‘ground swallow me up’ moment, to just a comfortable part of the process.

MANAGING EXPECTATIONS

Ask clients to bring photos of things that they HATE. People are often much more well-versed in expressing their dislikes. Pay close attention to these ‘hate’ photos and if any resemble a result you could end up with as part of their journey, be sure to flag it.

Strand tests are non-negotiable. Physically showing them a result and saying ‘this is a hint of what we can get today’ will manage their expectation.

If you find yourself getting lost or challenged in a consultation, remember this golden phrase; ‘this is what I can do, this is what I can’t; are you happy to go ahead?’ The information is clear and the choice is theirs.

VARIABILITY

Explain that variables and tweaks area normalpart of the process. I always say “Hair colour is just making an educated guess. There might be a few parts I’ll want to dry and assess, to potentially re-tone or make other adjustments. I’ll keep you informed the whole way and we’ll make the decisions together.”

This not only removes heaps of anxiety from you and your client, it sort of breaks the fourth wall between customer and clients making you equal in the process. They will not be sitting feeling like whatever happens is out of their control and will feel comfortable asking questions or making suggestions. It will also prevent you panicking at the basin and toning down something the client might actually have liked if you had let them see.

PROCESS

1.Transparency is your friend.“These foils are taking a bit longer, I can re-apply again but it’s going to cost a bit more or are you happy to let them lift to what they will?”

2.Before the reveal, ALWAYS normalise the process. “I’m just going to dry a bit off first and have a look in a few lights to see if anything needs to be done”. When doing this, also invite the client to have a look.

3.If it’s not right, break the tension immediately. If you can see an obvious error, it’s important you fix it regardless. This is where the careful use of language is so important.

See you next month for Part 2!

STYLIST Vs CYBORG

ChatGPT, the AI Chatbot, has everyone talking to it, causing a stir due to its exceptional ability to replicate human writing – but is it capable of the high level of insight and knowledge of a trained hairdresser? Over the next few issues, we will be pitching the savvy cyborg against some of our expert contributors in different areas of our industry.

This month, we have Samantha Shamplina-Burkwood to explain ways of encouraging customer loyalty as a hair professional

1. Personalise your customer experience

Once your client has arrived for their appointment, spending time and providing a thorough consultation –even if you think you know what they usually like – will help them to feel listened to.

Taking the time to build a relationship with your clients can go such a long way. Engage in friendly conversation; the more you connect, the more likely it is that they will trust your expertise and stick with you for their future hair needs.

3. Ask for honest feedback

Politely asking your customers to share a review of their experience via social media or a short survey can help build your profile and reputation locally. Additionally, the feedback can also be a fantastic way to gain insight on the things your regular clients like best about your current offering, as well as any changes and improvements you could consider implementing.

4. Set up a loyalty scheme

Consumers value being rewarded for their loyalty, so consider setting up a simple loyalty scheme, such as awarding customers a stamp per appointment and exchanging them for various discounts or freebies.

5. Reward your customers for any referrals

Where feasible, you could consider offering current clients a discounted rate for any referrals they make to you. Not only will this help you build loyalty with your existing customers, but is a great way to gain new ones too.

What are ways for hair professionals to encourage customer loyalty?

Provide excellent customer service

This means greeting clients warmly, listening to their needs, and going above and beyond to meet their expectations.

Personalize your services

Take the time to get to know each client and their preferences, and offer personalized recommendations based on their unique hair or skin type.

Use high-quality products

Invest in high-quality hair products that deliver results. Clients are more likely to return if they see that your products are effective and worth the investment.

Offer promotions and incentives

Encourage repeat business by offering loyalty programs, discounts on future services, or referral bonuses to your clients.

Follow up with clients

After an appointment, question whether they are satisfied with their experience. This shows that you care about their feedback and are committed to providing a positive experience.

Create a welcoming environment

The overall ambiance of your salon is important in creating a positive experience for your clients. Make sure your space is clean, organized and inviting, and provide amenities such as refreshments or reading materials to make them feel comfortable.

SHORT HAIR IS BACK FOR 2023! Long hair has dominated the high street for the past few years, with lockdowns and working from home making it a little too easy for clients to tie their unbrushed hair into a topknot and forget about it. However, as people have acclimatised to the world being back open, it’s time to begin a new chapter of versatile, beautifully executed, and well-maintained short haircuts...

Chopit LIKE IT’S HOT

“The bob is one of my favourite haircuts due to it being so versatile. No matter the client’s hair type or face shape, their bob can be tailored to suit them. For those with more prominent face shapes, who may not want a bob haircut with such a strong, structured shape, the cut can be made a lot softer with the inclusion of layers and a face framing fringe.”

Andy Heasman, International Creative Director, RUSH

“Without surprise, the classic, timeless bob is on trend for 2023. Expect an increase in clients requesting a blunt, jaw length bob, as well as a variety of super cropped styles that are also having a moment this season. From pixie cuts to cropped micro fringes, we are seeing an experimental phase with shorter hair and I love it! Don’t be afraid of layering when it comes to short styles too,

ROAR Hair and Beauty Salon Group

“SHORT HAIRCUTS ARE HAVING A MOMENT WITH MANY CELEBRITIES EMBRACING THE CHOP THIS SPRING. IN PARTICULAR, THE FRENCH BOB SEEMS TO BE THE HOTTEST TREND WITH TOUSLED WAVES AND SOFT FRINGES. FOR CLIENTS DARING TO GO EVEN SHORTER, SHORT CROPS AND LIVED-IN PIXIE CUTS ARE ON THE RISE.”

Katie Mulcahy, Director, Paint & Powder

“SHORT HAIR LOOKS FAB, ITS LOW EASYMAINTENANCE, TO DRY AND STYLE AND GIVES YOU AN EDGE THAT LONG HAIR CAN’T.”

Fay Flanagan, Educator, Balmain Hair Couture

ANDY HEASMAN

SUZIE M C GILL

BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM

PUMP UP THE VOLUME

Suprisingly, extensions can be the perfect way to truly nail a short hair look, with many stylists using bonds or tapes to thicken a baseline or add volume around the crown.

Jennifer Swain, owner of elite status Great Lengths salon, House of Swain, often uses extensions to achieve thicker hair:

‘Extensions are definitely not just always for length, that’s a common misconception that I still see and hear all the time. I am seeing a big trend emerging in the short French bobs that sit just above the jawline, and tapes are a brillant way to achieve this blunt finish.’

CONQUER THE CUT WITH AKIN KONIZI

In light of shorter styles beginning to steal the limelight, we spoke to Akin Konizi, Creative Director of HOB Academy and four times British Hairdresser of the Year winner, to learn the very best tips for creating shorter looks…

Don’t Panic. Shorter doesn’t have to mean scarier. You have all the skills, you just haven’t used them for a while. Practise makes perfect, so enrol yourself on a cutting course, practise on family and friends, and build up your confidence. Remember, hair is a canvas, and you are in control of what you create.

Do your research. Keep an eye on emerging trends. What celebrities have today, your clients will want tomorrow. Don’t go from long to short in one go. It’s too dangerous for you and too dramatic for the client! Get to know the hair before you take the risk of cutting it all off. Gradually make the transition from creating a bob, to a layered bob, to adding a fringe. Shorter hair doesn’t always mean precision cuts. A blunt bob can look dramatic, but so can graduated layers and a point-cut pixie.

VERSATILE STYLE

What makes the 2023 bob different is its duality of a relaxed finish with a blunt cut in one style. It’s daring and jaw grazing, without looking too extreme and overdone.

Sally Brooks, Fabriq Global Ambassador and three times winner of British and London Hairdresser of the Year, explains how to style ‘the cut of 2023’:

“Our model has fine hair, so this method shows that you don’t have to have that ‘perfect natural texture’ to achieve this look.

Firstly we gave her a Fabriq Quick Fix treatment, this strengthens her hair and adds shine to provide the best possible base as we move into cutting and styling.

“As we come into the summer months, many clients will be looking to get rid of excess weight in their hair and these shorter bob haircuts are a great way to do this, whilst also giving their hair an instant update for the season.”

Following her Quick Fix treatment, we towel dried the hair and twisted medium sized sections using our hands, working in different directions

to add variation and movement. We then used flat clips to hold different sections in place to further define the shape. We dried the hair off by combining natural air drying and a sock diffuser to create a soft, effortless and natural volume. Because of the starting treatment, the hair is now in perfect condition to recreate this easy styling quickly and efficiently at home.

Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons

“WE HAVE A HUGE AMOUNT OF CLIENTS LOVING THEIR SHORTER LENGTH HAIR WHILST STILL WANTING TO ADD VOLUME, THICKNESS AND NEW COLOUR TONES WITH HAIR EXTENSIONS.”

Katy Grimshaw, founder of Spectrum One Hair Extensions:

DANIELE DE ANGELIS

DONNING THE ‘CUT OF 2023’ IS A ONE-WAY TICKET TO

CoolgirlSTATUS

In the world of hairdressing, it’s no secret that celebrity influence will always bring demand from fashion forward clients. As the spotlight shines on short hair this spring, and with a number of celebrities debuting short styles on the red carpet this awards season, be prepared for an increased number of clients requesting the chop.

However, dramatic changes to length can often create unexpected shock and disappointment in clients; as a hairdresser, it is your responsibility to have a clear understanding of your client’s vision. Ultimately, you want to avoid the client drastically changing their hair in one appointment and leaving the salon unhappy.

Jenna Ortega, Se endaya

‘I think this bob really suits Kourtney, and I love her blonde! It isn’t too light, looks expensive and suits her skin tone. Bobs are classic, they can be amped up to give a modern edge and that’s what Kourtney’s done. More of an unstructured shape, less precision, but still balanced. I love the ear tuck and deep flipped parting… it keeps it younger and opens up the face. This shape would suit most people, just keep in mind the colour tone and overall length so that it suits your client’s face.’

Luke Benson

‘Although we’re only a few months into the year, the bob is most certainly THE short haircut of 2023. So many celebrities have already showcased their new bob haircuts, including Selena Gomez, Zendaya, Jenna Ortega and Emily Ratajkowski to name a few.’

Andy Heasman

Kourtney Kardashian

“IT DOESN’T HAVE TO BE DRAMATIC –INTRODUCE THEM TO SHOULDER-LENGTH LAYERS TO START WITH, GRADUALLYTHENGO SHORTER. AS A HAIRDRESSER, WE SHOULD NEVER GO FROM LONG TO SHORT IN ONE STEP AS IT CAN BE OVERWHELMING FOR MOST CLIENTS.”

Martin Crean, MODE Hair

Hailey Bieber

‘I love how Hailey Bieber has transformed her long glossy brunette locks into a stunning boxy, blunt bob that hits just below her chin. The style gives off serious ‘cool girl vibes’ and I think that’s what many clients are looking for in 2023.’’

Andrew Smith

Lily James

‘Loving the vintage chic vibe going on here, which is quite refreshing from all of the undone looks we see these days. It’s the right amount of glam whilst still feeling relaxed –so this could definitely catch on as an alternative way to add texture and wave.’

Michael Young

‘One of my favourite transformations is from Julia Garner, who recently transformed her long blonde hair into a cropped cut that she’s styled in a number of different ways on the red carpets – including smooth and straight, and with ringlet curls in a deep side parting. I think clients are now starting to realise these shorter cuts aren’t as scary as they look; they can still be incredibly versatile and styled in a number of ways as Julia has shown us.’

Suzie McGill

‘Emily Ratajkowski has recently been seen rocking her new short choppy bob, complete with bangs. This is a style that clients can easily maintain.’

“BEFORE MY CLIENTS HAVE THE ‘CHOP’, I MAKE SURE WE’VE GONE THROUGH A THOROUGH CONSULTATION; I ALWAYS ENCOURAGE MY CLIENTS TO GET AT LEAST FIVE PICTURES THAT THEY COULD SEE THEMSELVES HAVING. THIS WAY WE HAVE A LENGTHSTYLE,AND MAINTENANCE STRATEGY TO AIM FOR.”

Fay Flanagan, Balmain Hair Couture educator

Julia Garner

Emily Ratajkowski

“REVERIE IS A MOMENT OF CALM –A DREAMLIKE STATE OF MIND. BEING LOST IN YOUR OWN THOUGHTS. THERE’S A REAL VULNERABILITY TO THE PICTURES – AN ETHEREAL QUALITY, WHILST APPEARING STRONG AT THE SAME TIME. CAPTURING STRENGTH THROUGH BEAUTY WAS A PROCESS THAT REQUIRED MUCH THOUGHT TO ENSURE WE GOT IT JUST RIGHT.”

The search to find the cast for Reverie was quite specific – innocence, vulnerability and ethereal beauty.”

“Working with the BLONDME range allowed us to create the most beautiful blondes with precision lightening and tone.”

“The styling has a neo-Victorian influence with raw unfinished edges portraying a feeling of fragility.”

Except for three models – all of the looks were lightened and toned using soft pale tones from the BLONDME palette. We wanted the hair to have a translucency to it, void of colour and illuminated by light.”

THE MOOD ON THE DAY OF THE SHOOT WAS SET TO A SPECIFIC SOUNDTRACK IN ORDER TO CREATE THE PERFECT AMBIANCE IN THE STUDIO. IT’S SO IMPORTANT TO GET EVERY ELEMENT RIGHT IN ORDER TO NAIL THE BRIEF. YOU CAN ALWAYS FEEL IT WHEN SOMETHING MAGICAL IS HAPPENING – THE MOOD ON THE DAY WAS PERFECT FROM START TO FINISH, EVERYTHING FLOWED AND FELT EFFORTLESS WHICH SHOWS IN THE PICTURES.”

“THE HAIR FEELS DELICATE AS THE LIGHT PASSES THROUGH.”

“THE MAKE-UP HAS A BARELY THERE LOOK WHICH HELPED TO CAPTURE PURITY AND INNOCENCE IN THE FINAL PICTURES.”

“Schwarzkopf Professional are the perfect partners for us –they’re a brand who are at the forefront of innovation and creativity, ultimately allowing our team the room to grow whilst also offering them an amazing platform to be creative.”

“It’s so rewarding to see hairdressers bring Schwarzkopf Professional product innovations to life through beautiful creative work – like this collection from our ambassadors Hooker & Young. Seeing them use our BLONDME range to produce such

stunning colour results is massively inspiring and shows the significant power of the products. It’s always exciting to see our salons and their teams bring to life their creative projects, and we’re immensely proud to be their partners in craft.”

KAY BRADY, NATIONAL PPS MANAGER & EVENTS UK & IRELAND HENKEL BEAUTY CARE PROFESSIONAL

GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG

“REVERIE EVOKES A MOMENT OF CALM, A STATE OF BEING LOST IN THOUGHT. IT EPITOMISES

EVERYTHING THAT WE STAND FOR:

BEAUTIFUL, WEARABLE HAIR WITH AN UNMISTAKABLE HOOKER & YOUNG SIGNATURE STYLE.

HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG

GARY

Hair Gary Hooker and Michael Young Make-up Maddie Austin Styling Clare Frith Photography Michael Young

Inspired by the hot desert landscape of the Kalahari desert; white sand, burnt ember and deep red sunsets entwine together in a sandstorm of warm colours which are the hot topic for this coming season. Combined with precision haircuts, soft textures and beautiful shapes to create a flirtatious mirage.

WEL VE

Hair WELOVE International Art Team Make-up Amy Jenkins

Styling Rae Palmer Photography Jamie Blanshard Art Direction Rae Palmer

Lustre

Rainbow Room International

The Lustre collection was inspired by 70s disco vibes and showcases a variety of creative hair looks. Styles range from bold colour pops and clean icy silver tones to sleek, smooth grooming and natural textured styling.

Hair Rainbow Room International Artistic Team

Make-up Maddie Austin

Styling Kim Howells

Photography Chris Bulezuik

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. LIGHTEN UP!

Expanding its vegan Hair Lightening range, Directions presents the brand-new 6% Hair Lightening Kit Designed to protect the hair whilst achieving maximum colour intensity and optimum moisture, the 20 volume Lightening Kit contains everything you need to prepare hair for the brightest possible colour.

www.rdr.link/HAH013

2. HIT THE RESET BUTTON

Ideal for creating texturising and flexible hairstyles with soft shine and light hold, Re-New Copenhagen has released its Reset Spray Wax. Designed to retain the elasticity and mobility of the hair all day long, the product is moisture resistant, controllable and brings a soft shine to any look.

www.rdr.link/HAH014

3. INVEST IN THE BOND MARKET

Created by the inventor of Olaplex, Eric Pressly, epres introduces bond building 2.0. Powered by cutting-edge chemistry, the innovative Professional Bond Repair formula and spray-on home Bond Repair Treatment deliver deep, lasting repair for chemical, thermal, and mechanical damage on all hair types and textures.

www.rdr.link/HAH015

4. COLOUR ME COPPER

Providing hairdressers with more versatility and choice to create the latest fashion-led colour palette, L’Oréal Pofessionnel introduces two new copper shades to its iNOA range of ammonia-free colour. At the start of the year, iNOA launched a brand-new vegan formula and a selection of shades, now including the two new copper shades, 7.4 and 4.45.

www.rdr.link/HAH016

5. SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A DIAMOND

Create stunning copper and cool-brunette looks in a flash with the brand-new NC and NBA shades from LUMI10, the 10-minute permanent hair colour from JOICO’s LumiShine. Delivering 100% grey coverage with up to 2x the shine, this luminous new line-up of richly pigmented shades offers natural copper and natural blue-ash tones in one fast-processing formula.

www.rdr.link/HAH017

6. HAPPY SCALP, HEALTHY HAIR

Expand your skin care routine with healthy scalp essentials from Paul Mitchell Clean Beauty. Infused with gentle botanicals that help rebalance sebum while strengthening strands for ultra-healthy hair, the 3-part system gently removes oil and build up. Including the Scalp Therapy Shampoo, Conditioner and Drops, the trio is designed for optimal scalp nourishment and hair conditioning.

www.rdr.link/HAH018

7. DOUBLE TROUBLE ALFAPARF Milano Professional is taking two of its multifunctional leave-in products to the next level with the introduction of heat protection to 230°C and a Vegan formulation. Both products contain UV filters and antioxidants to prolong the beauty of colour, as well as an anti-pollution shield for total protection.

www.rdr.link/HAH019

8. NORDIC NEWNESS

White Skandinavien has created the newest generation of ammonia free and PPD free colour systems. With 30 different shades, including five pastels and seven natural colours, the brand-new Gloss System is vegan friendly and cruelty free, as well as promising serious shine. Is this the future of Nordic hair colour?

www.rdr.link/HAH020

9.

IT IS OIL UNDER CONTROL…

Oribe Hair Care introduces an extension of its Serene Scalp family with the Oil Control Collection. Developed to extend time between washes by reducing excess oil and sebum on oily scalps, the Shampoo, Dry Shampoo Powder and Treatment Mist have been designed to leave hair looking and feeling clean and lightweight for longer.

www.rdr.link/HAH021

10. REDUCE, REUSE, REFILL

KMS introduces its new Refill Pouches, an eco-focused packaging solution to further the brand’s sustainability efforts by reducing its plastic footprint. Designed for the top-selling MOISTREPAIR and COLORVITALITY collections, KMS Refill Pouches offer an effortless way to reuse the line’s shampoo and conditioner bottles.

www.rdr.link/HAH022

11. A LAVENDER HAZE

Introducing the Lavender Zap Wide Tooth Comb from Denman, the perfect rake for defining curls, distributing product and prepping the hair for styling. Add some energy to your kit with this pastel-patterned wide tooth comb.

www.rdr.link/HAH023

Denman Ambassador Brandon Messinger demonstrates how to maximise the definition and condition of long curls.

Diffuse the hair with a gentle heat setting so as not to disturb the drying hair. Do not touch or scrunch when wet as this promotes frizz.

Once the front is dry, repeat this process throughout the back section until dry.

activator

prep

through using

Once the hair is dry, you can scrunch with your hands to remove any excess product that may appear crunchy.

The end result is a seamless natural curl full of gloss and shine.

FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT

WWW.RDR.LINK/PHAH024

Prior to cutting, the hair was The hair was sectioned at the The front sections were This process was then mirrored

A small triangular section was taken from the front and used as a continuing guide for the

The same process as the front was used, continuing the triangular line into the back

in

for thoroughly brush

Flip the client forward and blot using a towel to encourage

A Curl’s Best Friend

FOREVER YOUNG

Beautiful hair, at any age. With the new JOICO YouthLock range, dull, tired or stressed-out hair is transformed into something that’s beautiful to touch, full of shine and glowing with vitality.

WHY YOUTHLOCK?

Sometimes hair needs a complete makeover. Daily stressors, our environment and our styling regimes can all take their toll. Hair that used to glow with health can begin to look dull, while hair that was always blessed with volume and oomph, starts to look a little flat. The new YouthLock range is here to banish those bad hair days and make styling a breeze.

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?

JOICO believe in keeping things simple and demystifying what good hair really means. As such, the YouthLock range is compact and complex. Featuring a Shampoo, Conditioner, Treatment Masque and Blowout Crème, the collection is comprised of a transformative blend of collagen – known for its plumping and strengthening qualities, Buriti Fruit Oil – a super-hydrating oil packed with antioxidants and Vitamins A and E, as well as their SmartRelease Technology. Together, this powerful combination gives hair the most beautiful finish. Here’s how…

THE SHAMPOO

Think of this as the perfect shampoo for those times when hair needs an instant improvement. It’s effective at removing all the things we don’t want, like build-up, sweat and grime, yet gentle enough for everyday use and it will never strip the hair. Instead, hair is left lush and ready for the next step in your regime.

THE CONDITIONER

Over time hair can lose its vitality, with volume and shine often becoming brittle and breakage-prone. With the new JOICO YouthLock Conditioner, there’s a whole new positive result, thanks to the youth-enhancing powers of collagen. This is a must for anyone looking to go back to those glossy, gleaming days of healthy-looking hair full of body and bounce.

THE TREATMENT MASQUE

It’s the season where we want to do all the things to our hair, and that’s fine, as long as it’s getting a regular dose of TLC. Enter the JOICO YouthLock Treatment Masque, designed to breathe new life into tired strands once a week. Thanks to the combination of plumping collagen and moisturising Buriti Fruit Oil, hair is rejuvenated, shiny, frizz-free and less likely to fall – and that’s after a single application!

THE BLOWOUT CRÈME

The big power blowouts of the 90s are back and with this JOICO YouthLock Blowout Crème, anyone can channel their inner supermodel, even in the most humid environments. As well as delivering that prerequisite body and bounce, the Blowout Crème protects hair against heat damage, prevents hair fall from breakage and provides static control. What more could you ask for? Healthy hair starts here!

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE NEW JOICO YOUTHLOCK RANGE VISIT WWW.JOICO.EU

Hair JOICO EMEA Art Team Art Director Bruno Marc Giamattei Photography Jamie Blanshard

step by step

The Blend Game

Beverley Rosser of Rosser Hairdressing, a Great Lengths Elite Status Salon, shows us her half head balayage-inspired technique with Great Lengths hair extensions.

Starting 1 inch above the nape hairline, take a horizontal row and apply a row of bonds using the alternating methods.

Continue working up the head, leaving a ¼ row of natural hair between each row of alternating extensions.

BEFORE

Prep your client’s hair with Great Lengths Clean Remover Shampoo, removing excess oils and residue caused from styling. This ensures the longevity of the hair extensions.

Section ¼ inch of the natural hair from around the front hairline. Apply a row of micro bonds, ensuring you do not leave a gap. Take another ¼ inch section and repeat another row of micros. Ensure this is done as back to back rows. Take another ¼ inch section and apply a row of mini bonds. Repeat this for another two rows.

Section a triangle from the parietal ridge to the centre parting (The depth will depend on the amount of colour you wish to add. The further back the section, the bigger the section of colour).

Within the triangle section, brickwork mini bonds until you reach the triangle point. Using the parting as a guide, continue to scatter mini bonds just under the parting (leave ¼ perimeter line to disguise the bonds).

Cut and blend the hair extensions with the client’s natural hair.

Barrel tong the hair and brush out to create a soft curl to finish the look.

Once the main width of the head is reached, start to curve the rows to follow the hairline shape. Continue using an alternating method of application.

Continue to work up the head, ensuring you leave a diamond perimeter around bonds invisible. Stop when

THIS MONTH, IS LOVING THE NEW ALFA ITALIA ‘AURORA’ PRO IONIC SMART DRYER.

Lightweight, extremely powerful and blissfully quiet, Aurora guarantees a sleek, super-fast blow dry without compromising on hair health.

The Alfa Italia Aurora Pro Ionic Smart Dryer continuously emits 50 million anions to restore the hair with optimum performance. Whilst maintaining smoothness and shine, the Smart Dryer effectively reduces drying time without excessive heat damage.

With an ultra-precise aircraft grade digital motor and speeds of up to 110,000 rpm, Aurora has four precise temperature settings and three precise wind speed settings suitable for all hair types and styling needs.

This intelligent dryer has an LCD display, magnetic styling attachments with heat shield technology to maintain a comfortable surface temperature for ease of installation, and rotation during styling.

KEY COMPONENTS YOU’LL LOVE:

❤ ADVANCED IONIC TECHNOLOGY

❤ DIGITAL SMART MOTOR

❤ 4 PRECISE HEAT SETTINGS AND 3 PRECISE WIND SPEED SETTINGS

❤ DIGITAL DISPLAY

❤ EASY-FIT MAGNETIC ATTACHMENTS: 2 AIR CONCENTRATORS AND A DIFFUSER

FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/PHAH025

all things

beautiful bright &

GOLDWELL’S COLOR ATELIER SUPPORTS YOUR SALON BUSINESS AND PROFILES COLOUR EXPERTISE.

Clients love a seasonal colour change and will be turning to you for advice and inspiration.

With the help of Goldwell’s Color Atelier service portfolio, you will be in a perfect position to profile yourself as a premium colour provider. Become equipped with everything you need to impress your clients by delivering uniquely crafted, beautiful hair for the season ahead.

Goldwell’s Color Atelier, brings you three inspirational trends that are central to seasonal style over the coming months. As we know, summer brings out the blondes and it’s big business!

With Goldwell’s innovation, superior product performance and extensive product portfolio, these three Color Atelier services will allow you to create uniquely crafted, summer hair for each client, demonstrating your professional expertise and delivering strong colour results which will keep your clients coming back through the salon door for more.

“I love how Goldwell Color Atelier has given us a refocus as a salon for 2023. Even before their consultation, clients can flick through the services and clue-up on innovative products and trends which gets them talking about it before they even sit in the salon chair. The added value we can provide has me and my team looking and feeling like alchemists and true passionistas of the craft as we create completely bespoke colours for all our clients. Goldwell Color Atelier helps us prove that they’re getting the expertise and the best service that they deserve.”

LYDIA WOLFE, JACK & THE WOLFE

Softly graduated lightening effect on lengths and ends.

HIGHLIGHTS SERVICE

Subtle highlights and lowlights for a natural-looking, luminous blonde.

CALIFORNIA BALAYAGE SERVICE

POWER TONING SERVICE

Shiny, multi-faceted blonde finish with a touch of tone.

As summer approaches, are you ready to grow your colour business?

SCAN TO BOOK YOUR FREE EDUCATION SEMINAR

PERMANENT

To achieve super glossy, healthy-looking hair with radiant and long-lasting results, PureTone should be applied onto dry hair. With this technique, a cream or liquid activator can be used for the following benefits:

Cream Activator:

● Smooth, creamy, workable consistency.

● Full head colour.

● Up to 100% white coverage.

● Root stretches/taps.

● Technical applications.

Liquid Activator:

● Gel-like, light workable consistency.

● Quick application on all hair lengths.

● Up to 70% white hair blending .

TONE-ON-TONE

To achieve super glossy, radiant results that gradually fade, PureTone is to be applied to clean, towel-dried hair. Cream or liquid activators can also be used with the following benefits:

Cream Activator:

● Full head colour.

Liquid Activator:

● Quick application.

Check out this ammonia free, dual action colour.

ASP Expert Haircare introduces PureTone, a unique colour concept that offers permanent or tone-on-tone effects, depending on the application technique.

PureTone features GPS-TECnology, a dual action formula that precisely directs colour to the optimum location in the cortex of the hair shaft when tone-on-tone is desired, or deep within the hair shaft for permanent, long-lasting results.

It come in 35 intermixable shades, including 10 toners. With an ultra-shine formula containing Shea Butter and Argan Oil, this line is more than 90% naturally derived, vegan and ammonia free.

● Root stretches/taps.

● Technical toning applications.

● Up to 50% white hair blending.

● Glossing.

● Glazing.

● Up to 30% white hair blending.

000 PURE GLOSS

This is a high gloss treatment, containing no colour, which can be applied to dry or clean, towel-dried hair. Mix with a chosen activator for the ultimate gloss treatment, or mix with other shades to dilute any PureTone shade.

TONERS

Bossing the Gloss giveaway...

A collection of 10 toners for stunning shimmering effects which are perfect for glossing, glazing and tonal correction. These can be applied to clean, towel-dried pre-lightened or natural blonde hair. This can be used with any cream or liquid activator. PureTone is free from: silicone, sulphates, alcohol, paraben, wax and mineral oil, making it kinder to hair.

We have one full range of PureTone, worth over £200, to give to one lucky reader. To get your hands on the www.rdr.link/HAH026

THE RANGE INCLUDES:

35 x PURETONE SHADES

1 x PURETONE LIQUID ACTIVATOR 1000ml

1 x PURETONE CREAM ACTIVATOR 1000ml

2 x PURETONE APPLICATOR BOTTLES 250ml

1 x PURETONE SHADE CHART

1 x PURETONE A4 SHOWCARD

3 x PURETONE BROCHURES

1 x ASP TINT BRUSH MEDIUM

1 x ASP BOWL

For more information on ASP PureTone: www.rdr.link/HAH027

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER AND GROOMER LUKE

BENSON IS ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE INSTAGRAM OBSESSIONS FOR BACKSTAGE PEEKS AT CELEBRITY SHOOTS AND EVENTS. CATCH LUKE’S LATEST DIARY HIGHLIGHTS WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

I work with LOUISE pretty regularly, these are some images from her range with Peacocks and also some editorial work to go alongside her album release. Matthew Eades is one of my favourite photographers to work with, so always a good day shooting!

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

I worked on the launch campaign for a new women’s tailoring brand YOMI. It was two long days in different locations, but super fun. There will be stills and a 2-minute fashion film to go alongside the launch; I got to have a big input on the hair concept for this, so I’m really excited to see the results.

ARDBEG WHISKEY I loved being part of this shoot –it had an amazing team on it, including makeup artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis and photographer Catherine Harbour who shot my winning London Hairdresser of the Year collection! The direction for the models was “unique individuals”, so we were able to have some fun with hair, make up and styling. Can’t wait to see the results, keep an eye on Instagram for them!

These are some of the final images from the new NAILS.INC campaign that I worked on recently. As a brand they’re great fun, and their ethos is as much about fashion as it is about beauty, which reflects in their campaign imagery. These will be drip fed out across the next few months, so keep your eyes peeled.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

VISIT

Colour specialist salon Stil is a relaxing destination salon in the heart of Chelsea, owned by award-winning colourist Christel Barron-Hough.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?

STIL comes from the Swedish word for style, and I feel it’s more than a concept –it’s something that’s linked to my DNA. The salon is Scandi-influenced and inspired; it’s very minimal, but with a real attention to detail. We always wanted it to be very contemporary –a super modern, chic setting with a personal approach and experience for the client.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN?

The inspiration is drawn from my Scandinavian heritage, and we’ve taken our design references from that clean, Nordic aesthetic. The interior combines white wooden flooring, indoor greenery and bespoke Crittall features –all hallmarks of contemporary Scandi design.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

Yes, we worked with the incredible Danish residential and commercial architect Max Broby. He’s been involved

in a massive range of projects, and we knew he was a great fit for ours.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.

The space is bright and airy, minimal with clean lines. We hope it creates an inviting, relaxed energy and becomes somewhere our clients love to spend time. Each custom-made mirror is accompanied by its own individual marble-based side table. Everyone gets their own designated area; it’s a personal experience.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN?

Hopefully it’s a wow factor. It’s luxury, but done in an informal way so the overall effect is high end, but it’s not intimidating.

TELL US WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN?

Light was one of the most important elements for us when we designed the salon. Having a bright, white space with black contrast makes it much easier to read hair colour. The white floor and walls bounce light around the salon and were chosen to create as much light as possible. We never overlook the little details either. We love flowers and every week we get fresh arrangements for our main displays as well as our bud vases. These small things add lots of happiness and colour inspiration.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES/AREAS IN THE SALON?

STIL’s affiliation with nature is reflected in the salon’s centrepiece, a sage green marbled, interactive colour mixing bar where clients can watch colour magic being performed. This and the marbled designs behind the backwash are

They’re stunning. US company Calico Wallpaper created our own custom-made microcosmos wallpaper in conjunction with BCXSY. It was a fascinating process that allows you to come up with a hand painted design based on an infusion of your chosen colours.

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?

When we were planning the salon, we considered how to be green in many different ways. We’ve got built-in waste drops that allow us to recycle cleanly and conveniently, we use bio-degradable towels so there’s less burden on washing and our systems are digital so that we’re pretty much paperless. The infrastructure of the salon itself is as energy efficient as possible and uses the latest green technology.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL?

Currently, we use Timely. It’s a very service-minded, efficient system in how it communicates. One feature that works well for us is that we’re notified if colour clients need a skin test if they book online –the booking will be pending at our end until that’s confirmed.

DID YOUR PRODUCT BRAND/COLOUR

well with our vision. We’re with Wella Professionals who we feel are the best partner for what we do.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?

Much of it is bespoke or custom-made, but our salon chairs from Pahi are tastefully minimalist to fit in with the overall design.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?

We embrace personal style and everyone in the team is free to express their individuality. The only guidance is smart casual but otherwise everyone can wear what they choose.

“This was my wedding day to my husband,Dipen.It had to be this picture because it tells a thousand words, one of the happiest days of my life.”

5minutes with Luke Ormsby

Let’s catch up with the owner of Luke Ormsby Hair Salons as he talks green tea, Joe Rogan and artifical intelligence.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU.

I like to know my day ahead, so I always arrive at the salon before my team with a green tea in hand and run through the reports for the day, getting an oversight of what’s booked in. Typically, I

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION?

My favourite collection has to be the latest one, Human X. It is a reflection of the world teetering on the edge of humans and machines becoming one. It embodies the softness and fragility of the human experience, juxtaposed with the rigidity and steely undertones of artificial intelligence. The overall focus for the hair is about transition of colour and shape; light to dark and short to long. This was done to embody the way humanity is making the

the time because I didn’t really know what to expect, but looking back, and given the success we’ve had in opening a second in two years, it’s now something I’m immensely proud of.

quick fire favourites

early to go through all our goals for that day/week. I then take my first client usually around 10am. I tend to be a little old school in that I run through my column all the way to finish, which is usually between 4pm and 6pm. My favourite part of the day is getting home to my husband and taking the dogs for a walk –my little babies.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

Being at home is such a luxury to me, so I tend to use my free time to potter about the house and walk the dogs with my husband. We both love to socialise, eat out and see family, especially my nieces and nephews.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT?

It’s a custom-made, fitted jacket that I had made by a friend’s son, he has just launched his own brand called New World Order. He creates bespoke film prints on clothing and it’s incredible. I style the jacket with different outfits all the time.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

Opening my first salon. I didn’t feel hugely proud at

1 2

TO VISIT: THE PARK WITH MY DOGS, BEING AT ONE WITH NATURE ON MY OWN AND REMINDING MYSELF OF WHY MOVING TOWARDS HAIRDRESSING THAT DOESN’T COST THE EARTH IS SO IMPORTANT TO ME.

TO LISTEN: THE JOE ROGAN EXPERIENCE PODCAST

TO WATCH: THE WHITE LOTUS –JUST FINISHED IT AND IT’S INCREDIBLE!

TO READ: GRANT CARDONE’S 10X –A MUST READ FOR ANYONE IN BUSINESS.

TO EAT: SOCIAL DHABA IN HATCH END –DHABA CHICKEN LOLLIPOP TO START, HANDI LAMB AND JEERA RICE FOR MAIN…AND A TINY GLASS OF WINE! 3 5 4

FOLLOW OUR insta

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are also interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of ProHair. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information.

Alan Howard............................................................(pages 40,41) www.rdr.link/HAH100

Denman Int Ltd................................................................(page 26) www.rdr.link/HAH101

Great Lengths Dist.........................................................(page 22) www.rdr.link/HAH102

Joico Zotos Europe............................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAH103

Joico Zotos Europe........................................................(page 55) www.rdr.link/HAH104

KPSS (UK) Ltd..................................................................(page 59) www.rdr.link/HAH105

NHBF................................................................................(page 20) www.rdr.link/HAH106

Revlon Professional..........................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAH107

Revlon Professional......................................................(page 57) www.rdr.link/HAH108

Schwarzkopf Professional................................(pages 2/IFC,3) www.rdr.link/HAH109

WAHL (UK) Ltd................................................................(page 60) www.rdr.link/HAH110

Wella Professionals (UK) Ltd........................................(page 15) www.rdr.link/HAH111