Professional Hairdresser April 2022 by Hamerville Media Group

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PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

APRIL 2022

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A CREATIVE COLLABORATION Kao Salon Division & Goldwell and Martin Crean, a powerful partnership Beyond supporting salons every day with exceptional professional hair products including Goldwell, KMS, Oribe and VARIS, Kao Salon is dedicated to nurturing strong, successful partnerships that help you grow as a salon owner, business and stylist. From extensive education and training support; inspirational global events and awards; to tailored support and tools to help your salon become even more sustainable for you, your clients and communities. Kao Salon is passionate about working hand in hand with you to develop tailored activities, solutions and support, that help you succeed in what you love doing and for your salon business to reach new heights and thrive. Here, Martin Crean of MODE, who has created this month's cover and inside collection using Goldwell Colorance & new Gloss Tones, shares more about his partnership with Kao Salon.

As a business owner, artistic director, hairdresser and educator, it’s important to work with a product partner that understands your different needs. And with Kao Salon and Goldwell, I know I can depend on them whatever hair hat I am wearing. Their innovative products mean I can create any texture I want to, whether for my everyday client or on a creative photo shoot, and the constant support means there is always someone at the other end of the line to listen to my challenges. Our team and our clients are more demanding than ever before and I know that with Goldwell by my side, anything is possible. Martin Crean, MODE

“Making life beautiful for salons, stylists and clients”

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#GOGOLDWELL #COLORFOREVERYONE

Kao Salon, underpinned by each of our salon brands, inherently understands that the expression of creativity is the lifeblood of the industry. We truly believe in the power of this incredibly powerful salon community. With our long history of working with salon owners and hair stylists, we’re dedicated to joining each of our salon partners on their journey, supporting them in every way we can to help them grow, create and succeed. From our educational programs and inspirational sessions to our product innovations and business support, we work hand in hand and in complete partnership with each of our customers, ensuring they have everything they need to help them thrive in what they love doing most – professionally and creatively. We work hard to understand their daily challenges and their individual needs, and we believe that only by giving them our utmost support, can we, together, reach new heights. If our customers want to go the extra mile for their success, we’re at their side, helping make life more beautiful for salons, stylists and their clients alike.

Julie Winchester, General Manager UK, Ireland, South Africa. KAO Salon Division

For more information call 03301 239 530 or visit goldwell.com

www.kaosalondivision.com

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PRO HAIR LOVES: ghd iD helios

DESMOND DIRECTS: a creative collab

CONT REGULARS

BUSINESS

FIRST WORD

16 PHIL SMITH

HEADLINES

19 STEVE ROWBOTTOM

11 LOVE: STRONG-HOLD SPRAYS 13 LOVE: GHD ID HELIOS

22 CLIVE COLLINS 22 SAM BURNETT

MENOPAUSE HAIR SPECIAL 28 LET’S GET SCIENTIFIC With Iain Sallis 29 ADDRESS THE ISSUE With Andrew Barton,

Danny Coles and Wil Fleeson 32 TALK TREATMENT With Robert Eaton 33 START THE CONVERSATION With Colin McAndrew

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ISSUE 04 APRIL 2022

PORTFOLIO: Martin Crean

DROPPED: the latest product line up

VISIT: Tim Scott-Wright at The Hair Surgery

TENTS PORTFOLIO

PRODUCTS

39 DESMOND DIRECTS

65 COLOUR CLOSE-UP:

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

44 MARTIN CREAN

66 COLOUR CLOSE-UP:

52 L’ANZA 56 MEDUSA

SCHWARZKOPF

60 HARINGTONS

PROFESSIONAL 68 DROPPED: LATEST PRODUCTS 69 COMPETITION: RAPTURE

70 SPOTLIGHT: MALIBU C 71 SPOTLIGHT: DIVA PRO STYLING

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Hair, help & the Menopause Long viewed as taboo, we are now engaging in a more acceptable and candid conversation around the Menopause. In part this is down to well-known celebrities of a certain age opening up in the media and highlighting this stage of their own hormone journey, helping to emphasise and normalise a natural process that half the population will experience. There is also a realisation amongst hairdressers that they too have to step up their menopause-sensitive game and that the commitment is there to know how to deal with and help clients going through it. There are certain side effects of the Menopause that are more commonly known, but hair changes and loss have been less widely discussed. Some women will experience hair shedding and for others, a more profound effect is hair thinning. As hairdressers you become hair angels for your menopausal clients: You adapt their cuts to their new hair texture and you use colour to make them feel better if the greys are getting them down and to disguise hair loss. It is encouraging to witness hairdressers breaking the taboo, with salons training their stylists to be sympathetic at all levels and to address the Menopause with knowledge and compassion. Colin McAndrew of Medusa is one male salon owner who is doing just that and has written a welcome and refreshing piece about his approach on page 33. Our Menopause Hair Special starts on page 27 and gives insight into what you can do to help your menopausal clients – empowering them to take control and address their menopause hair-mare!

@PROHAIRMAG

Q @PROHAIRMAG

Editor

Designer

Nicola Shannon

Donna Booth

nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

HAIR: Martin Crean

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901

oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

25,291

• July 20 – June 21

PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles

Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2022 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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@PROHAIRMAG

Q @PROHAIRMAG

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

HEADLINES AMBASSADOR ANNOUNCEMENT Alfa Italia has appointed professional hairdresser, salon owner and online content creator Paul Watts as its new ambassador.

#SALONLOVE Hosted by Passion4hair, the very first #SalonLove Partner Awards have been announced. The Digital Frequent Flyer Award was awarded to the salon that produced the most traffic from their website to #Salonlove’s and was awarded to Andrew Slater Hairdressing. The Salon Partner of The Year award was given to the salon that generated the highest profit in a year from website sales, won by Barrie Stephen Hair.

#BACKINGBRAVE Easydry founder and CEO Anne Butterly, a native of Dundalk, Co. Louth, was recently asked to take part in an advertising campaign with national Irish bank AIB. This series of adverts features entrepreneurs showing their stories of bravery to found their own business and survive trials and tribulations. The hashtag for the campaign is #backingbrave.

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HAIRCUTS4HOMELESS Haircuts4Homeless, the charity founded by hairdresser Stewart Roberts, that creates space and acceptance for homeless people via a haircut, announces the launch of ‘HEAR ME, SEE ME’, a publication that aims to humanise the face of homelessness and to acknowledge that the smallest of actions can have the greatest effect. 100% of proceeds from book sales will support the charity’s ongoing work.

GLOBAL RECOGNITION KAO, the parent company of KAO Salon Division UK and its brands such as Goldwell and KMS, has been recognised as one of the world’s most ethical companies by US think tank Ethisphere, for a record 16th consecutive year. Kao is the only Asian company to have made the list every year, since the ranking began in 2007.

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What’s April famous for? Showers of course! While we are hoping for some sun, here are some super strong, storm shielding sprays we are loving this month that will save your styles!

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL SESSION LABEL THE STRONG A firm hold hairspray from all new SESSION LABEL that provides maximum control and flawless hair. The strong, lasting dry hold makes this formula easy to work with and the hair more manageable when creating up-dos. It’s also Vegan! www.rdr.link/HK001

JOICO POWER SPRAY A fast-dry finishing spray that provides humidity protection and level 8+ hold up for up to 72-hours with no flakes or residue. Containing Moringa Seed Oil for shine and softness, it also provides thermal protection up to 232˚C, plus UVA/UVB protection and is free of sulfates. www.rdr.link/HK002

WELLA PROFESSIONALS EIMI SUPER SET An extra strong finishing spray formulated to help protect hair from humidity, UV and heat. It’s designed to fix, craft and finish any type of hairstyle with a hold level 4, leaving a beautiful floral fresh fragrance behind. www.rdr.link/HK003

KMS HAIRSTAY FIRM FINISHING HAIRSPRAY A quick-drying, strong hold spray containing pomegranate for it’s potent antioxidant effect to protect hair against UV damage, and pepper which is known for bringing natural shine to the hair. It promises to be non-sticky with no flaking or residue. www.rdr.link/HK004

GHD PERFECT ENDING FINAL FIX HAIRSPRAY A humidity resistant, fast-drying lightweight spray that has a soft-touch feel but gives hold to keep finished styles in place all day. Whether you’ve styled bouncy curls or loose waves, it’s a perfect ending for long-lasting definition and reduced flyaways. www.rdr.link/HK005

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECHNI.ART 6-FIX A super strong fixing spray with triple diffusion dry mist, 24 hour extreme hold and humidty protection, 6-Fix is extra-strong, long-lasting, quick-drying and provides hold without crunchiness, perfect for keep hair in place and tight. www.rdr.link/HK006

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GHD HELIOS

from the new ghd iD collection Check out the full ghd iD collection at: WWW.RDR.LINK/HK007

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THIS MONTH PRO HAIR IS LOVING THE

The ghd iD limited-edition collection of fresh lilac, bright blue, and soft pink hair tools is inspired by Gen Z and their powerful expression of individuality. Bursting with springtime pastel perfection, we are loving the ghd helios™ professional hairdryer available in the blue and lilac.

We love the fact that the fresh lilac and bright blue are such happy and appealing colours. Feel the power that the helios puts in your hands giving ultra-powerful drying and ultimate styling results. You will love that you can achieve 30% more hair shine than leaving hair to dry naturally. The ghd helios hairdryer with unique Aeroprecis™ technology and bespoke contoured nozzle gives you the tool to create the best blow drys for your clients. ghd iD limited-edition helios also comes with matching dust bag and fun stickers.

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business

FITfor BUSINESS Phil Smith tackles another of your tricky post-Pandemic business issues... My salon has always enjoyed a good reputation but with two new salons opening in my town I’m worried about what it takes to stand out in what’s becoming a crowded market.

PHIL SAYS:

“Simple answer? It’s exceptional customer service that makes your salon stand out above the rest. You could have the best stylists, a brilliant location and the fanciest products on your shelf but unless your clients – new and existing – love the whole experience of visiting your salon they could be tempted to look elsewhere. Notice how I didn’t talk about being price competitive. Yes, you need to keep an eye on what your market can sustain but if you offer a service that’s worth every penny, you can always justify your price list. The whole process of ‘getting your hair done’ can be elevated with not a huge amount of effort. Here’s how… GO THE EXTRA MILE If you ask me, it’s not about how much you spend but more about the value you are getting for it. Could it be that you throw in a conditioning treatment for every client, a complimentary head massage, better coffee in the machine, a nicely designed drinks menu at every chair, freshly laundered gowns that smell amazing, flowers from the market on the reception desk: All relatively low cost but their perceived value is priceless. HOW DO YOU MAKE THEM FEEL? You could say our primary objective when a customer walks through the door is to make them LOOK a million dollars. But what about how they FEEL? There’s been a surge in people’s awareness of self-care and a visit to the salon can come almost top of that list. As hairdressers, we have a duty to make the outcome of every appointment not just a great haircut and colour but a feeling of wellbeing too. Dig a little deeper into the emotional value of hairdressing and you’re onto a winner. To read Phil’s article in click here

REVIEWS ARE GOLD Even when you try your hardest there will be areas you can improve on. How will you know? By asking for, monitoring and reviewing your customer’s feedback. Constructive criticism is worthwhile whether you’re starting out or have been in business for years and a bad review is far more likely to be about the service. A relationship of trust is crucial. On the rare occasion things don’t go right, we want the opportunity to sort it out. That requires our client to feel comfortable enough to raise any issues, whether that’s directly with their stylist, or with someone else in the team. Bad hair can be fixed, bad service is rarely forgiven. CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE, NOT JUST CUSTOMER SERVICE Customer service begins as soon as your client walks through the door. In fact, let me correct myself – it starts even before that. Customer service is how your business comes across at every touchpoint. How user-friendly is your website? What have you invested into making your shopfront appealing? Is your phone answered in a timely and professional way? It really is important to invest in customer service on every level. And not just when it comes to attracting new clients. I’d say it’s even more important to look after the ones you already have. There’s a huge amount of effort and cost that goes into attracting new clientele so it makes sense to invest in the ones you already have. Our goal is to have customers who just wouldn’t dream of going anywhere else to get their hair done. Try not to worry too much about what other salons in your area are doing – in my experience there is plenty of room for everyone. My best advice is to give your clients more than just an amazing haircut and they’ll keep coming back for more.

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National Minimum and Living Wage set to increase this month.

On the rise

advertorial The changes to the National Living and Minimum wage were revealed by the Treasury on 25 October 2021 and were officially announced by the Chancellor Rishi Sunak during his autumn budget statement on 27 October 2021. In the Budget, he announced the increases in the NMW (National Minimum Wage) and NLW (National Living Wage) from April 2022. The NLW will increase to £9.50 from £8.91, and the NMW will also increase across the various age groups. Apprenticeship pay will go up from £4.30 to £4.81. But don’t be caught out: an apprentice over the age of 19 who is in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the age-appropriate NMW/NLW. In September 2021, the Government announced plans to introduce a health and social care levy of 1.25 percentage points to be added to UK workers' National Insurance contributions from April 2022. A rise in National Insurance Contributions (NIC) is to help pay for the NHS and social care reform. Your National Insurance contributions depend on your employment status and how much you earn.

Not everybody has to pay National Insurance, but contributions count towards your state pension and other beneﬁts. Employers should update their payroll to ensure that the NMW/NLW increases from 1 April 2022 are taken into account, including the NIC increase. The pay increase should also be conﬁrmed in writing.

Price increase The only way to make money in your salon or barbershop is by charging enough to cover all your costs and make a profit. Salon and barbershop owners should consider increasing their prices to cover the increase in wages in their business. You’ll need to calculate how much you’re paying out, for example, wages, stock, rent, rates, utility bills, and accountancy/banking costs. Are you just breaking even or only making a tiny profit? If so, you need to increase your prices. If possible, it’s a good idea to increase your prices at the start of each new financial

If you have an employer, you'll pay Class 1 National Insurance Contributions. This also includes if you're self-employed but work for an employer - it's your employer's job to pay your National Insurance through your payslips, as well as their own employer contributions of 13.8% (15.05% from April 2022).

year in April. This will make sense to clients and be more acceptable to them. Always give at least six weeks’ notice that your prices will be increasing – don’t spring it on your clients. Make sure all your staff will be able to explain the reasons for the price increases. For example, suppliers’ higher costs and increases in wages, rent and rates. The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. As part of its work, it provides specialist business support, advice and backup to nail and beauty salons.

JOIN THE NHBF BEFORE THE END OF APRIL 2022 AND QUOTE PRH25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE. FIND OUT MORE: NHBF.CO.UK

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business

TOTALLY

pivoting STUFF

How to effectively pivot your salon offerings, post-pandemic, to future proof your business. Steve Rowbottom, Co-Director, Westrow and Revlon Professional’s Business Development Ambassador explains.

Myself and my business partner, Marc Westerman, opened our first Westrow salon 35 years ago in Leeds, on 1 April 1987. It goes without saying that things have changed immeasurably since then, with two recessions and a global pandemic along the way. We now have eight Yorkshire-based salons and an educational academy in the centre of Leeds, and while our business was formed with a love of the craft at its heart, agility and speed of response has always had to be a key element of our business DNA and never more so than now. Over the last two years our industry has had to adapt and react, to pivot not pause, when it comes to pivoting your business, nothing is always as it seems. Coca Cola for example, (a syrup cordial originally made to help headaches and hangovers) had to pivot hugely to become what it is known for today. What this highlights is that while necessity is indeed the mother of all invention, exciting business innovation can often come from unique (and sometimes stressful) origins. What’s also clear is that a shift in mindset is always key; when faced with challenges, it takes discipline to keep level headed and in clear sight of your long-term vision and goals. As business owners, we all feel a sense of purpose from this vision, but if you’ve felt as though you have nothing left to give after recent events, it can feel like a loss, of spirit and discipline. In my opinion passion fuels business way before any profit does. If you feel your business passion waning, it’s important to look at it through a different lens. It’s about reigniting and readdressing, re-evaluating and reassessing. To read Steve’s article in full click here

Here’s how to allow yourself to pivot, post pandemic, for a passion before profit approach to your business: ADAPT AND REACT Managing change associated with growth is a hard but an essential part of running a business and change is the only constant a business owner knows. Reacting and adapting to your customers’ evolving needs should be a key driver in your model, post-pandemic. MONEY TALKS Financial fragility has been highlighted aggressively for many salon business owners throughout the pandemic. It’s clear that expecting the unexpected pays dividends. Look at how you are prepared post pandemic, versus pre, and take steps to achieve a financial position that can weather future storms. ONE FOR THE ROAD At Westrow we have always had a business roadmap and ensure that key milestones are highlighted as we go, so we keep on track and don’t veer too off-course. Be aware of the momentum you are building as you go, so you can leverage it to support the next phase of your business. ACTION PLAN Pivoting requires humility and self awareness is key to changing processes that no longer work. Business structure must be continually adapted, so

restructure as and when required. Continually redefine, re-evaluate and re-ignite, when needed. Be present in your business and ensure you’re flexible, creative, attentive and spontaneous. Beneficial action will always create a business reaction. WORD OF MOUTH Honesty and transparency is key: Communicate change, with your team, with your product partners, with your clients. This reinforces trust which is a vital ingredient of entrepreneurial spirit and success. TEAM MINDSET Embrace a new way of thinking that larger organisations can sometimes lack. Shine a spotlight on your strengths, work on your weaknesses, encourage your staff to adopt a team mentality, rather than an individual thought process. Deliver on your promises with purpose. Assess needs, set objectives, create action plans, implement initiatives and evaluate/revise where necessary. PERFECT MATCH Match your ambition with action. To succeed in business, you need two heads, even if there aren’t two of you. You need your creative hat to drive your team’s inspiration, while your business hat can focus on driving client retention, all the while being true to your mission and long-term goals.

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ENCOURAGING MEMBERS OF YOUR SALON TEAM TO ENTER WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2022 IS A WIN-WIN!

LEAD THE WAY

When was the last time there was a buzz in the salon that created an electric atmosphere that everyone could be part of? How can you create a sense of togetherness and excitement that the whole team can get behind? Look no further, the Wella TrendVision Award 2022 could be just what your salon needs to boost morale, create great PR and provide positive career progression. Finding new ways of motivating the team that don’t come with a hefty price tag can be challenging, and any salon manager or owner who has experienced the TrendVision Award will agree, this is an absolute must for any salon’s marketing calendar. The beauty of entering TrendVision Award is that the return is far greater than the investment, even if you don’t win. It is free to enter which means you only need to consider a model, make-up artist, and clothes styling. There are plenty of ways you can keep costs to a minimum, such as teaming up with a local model agency and seeking out their new faces or finding local make-up artists who want to build their portfolio in return for professional pictures. Entering TrendVision Award is about creating a look that is executed to perfection, and most importantly, is bang on the brief. There’s no doubt that the journey that TrendVision Award takes you on is like no other. From the very first stages of brainstorming ideas through to the legendary final event, TrendVision Award could be the publicity story that your business is lacking. Clients will love the added hype in the salon and the passion and camaraderie it brings to the team will last far longer than the days surrounding the competition. So what are you waiting for? Make this your year to truly go for it and give your team an opportunity they can genuinely get excited about.

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advertorial “Having a finalist in the TrendVision Award does help to drive business. It is a great PR story that we promote on social media and local press. Potential clients can see that we have dedicated experts that are at the forefront of trends and fashion.” Kai Wan, PKai Hair, Peterborough

“The impact TrendVision Award has on a stylist’s confidence and how this is projected out to their clients, inevitably grows their column.” Michelle Young, DKY Hair Company, Bangor

NEED TO KNOW: 쎲 Categories: Colour Artist, Colour Specialist, Craft Artist, Editorial Look. 쎲 Photographic Entries: 3rd May – 14th June 2022. 쎲 Photographic results announced: w/c 25th July 2022. 쎲 TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final TBC September/October 2022.

“TrendVision Award is the best thing we have ever done for our business. It raises our profile, attracts new clients and staff and the buzz of being in the finale is amazing, even if you don’t win.” Hani Jarcheh, Abstract Hairdressing, Beaconsfield

EASY TO ENTER: 4 steps through Instagram by posting the ‘before’ & ‘after’ look with a category hashtag and hashtag #NTVA2022. Please note that for 2022 there is no semi-final stage and all successful photographic entries will go straight through to the UK & Ireland Final, all the more reason to get the team motivated and start creating some fantastic imagery!

“TrendVision Award is incredibly important to our business. It helps inspire our team members and pushes them out of their comfort zone to create extraordinary hair. It proves too that they are not ‘just a hairdresser’ and they deserve their place on stage, in front of some of the best hairdressers in the world.” Dean Robertson, Sixth Sense Salon, Sutton Coldfield

To find out more go to www.wella.co.uk/trendvision or www.rdr.link/HK008

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CLIVE’S client

CONFIDENTIAL Creating the perfect client

Who is the perfect client? Defining this correctly and then striving to create an army of them will be the making of any salon business, says Clive Collins, one of the founding directors of the hugely successful and award-winning HOB Salons.

DEFINE PERFECTION

The perfect client will be someone who visits your salon regularly — at least once every six weeks — for a cut and colour. They will also request regular in-salon treatments, buy take-home products to maintain their hair look and condition between appointments and they will recommend you to all their friends! Have this definition of the perfect client in mind and ensure your entire team knows about it. Instil in each team member that you want them to create their own army of perfect clients that will carry the salon forwards however tough times get.

CONSULTATION IS KEY

We’ve talked about the importance of a thorough consultation before, but it’s crucial to creating the ideal client. The first time a client enters your salon they should be offered at least a 15-minute consultation, covering what they like and don’t like about their hair, their lifestyle and their current homecare regime. This first appointment will sow the seeds that will lead to a new client becoming a perfect client. Remember, a consultation is a time for the client to talk and you to listen, but it is also a time for you, the hair expert, to offer advice. This is when you can start to talk about long-term hair goals and how to achieve them.

CREATE A ‘HAIR PLAN’

Work on a long-term ‘hair plan’ with every regular client. It doesn’t have to be a high-pressure thing that will scare them off, just create a list of goals that they would like to achieve with their hair – goals you can help set, using your expertise. Goals could include achieving healthier-looking hair within a certain time period, for which you could prescribe a mix of homecare and in-salon treatments, for example. As goals are met, the client will become increasingly loyal and one step closer to being that perfect client.

HOMECARE IS CRUCIAL

Recommending relevant homecare products is vital to creating the perfect client. Not only will it add to your business’s bottom line, but it will also lead to your client feeling happy about their new hair cut or colour for longer. Here at HOB Salons we have taken homecare advice to the next level with the launch of HOB Homecare, a revolutionary way to ensure each client has a bespoke homecare regime, designed specifically for them. HOB Homecare is an online retail shop with a difference, offering clients a free online video consultation with one of their hairdressing experts to discuss any haircare concerns and find the perfect regime for that individual.

CLIVE’S 5 TOP TIPS ONE Know what a perfect client means to you and make sure your team knows too.

TWO Offer a thorough consultation to every client during every visit.

THREE Never be afraid to offer advice — you are the expert.

FOUR Recommending homecare products is part of the service.

FIVE Don’t let clients get bored. Recommend a change to their usual haircut or colour on a regular basis.

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business

THE mindful

HAIRDRESSER Sam Burnett of HARE & BONE discusses his mindful approach to protecting his energy.

Since adopting a more mindful approach to life, both personally and professionally, I’ve learnt about the importance of protecting your energy. I have taught myself that sometimes it’s ok to say no. In fact, sometimes it is beneficial to say no. It can be a difficult place to get to but for me I would rather give my all to a few projects than say yes to everything. As I type this, I’m on my way to Paris Fashion Week. I know that in order to give 100% at each of the shows I’m working on I need to protect my energy. This means that in the days leading up to leaving I have had to build in some form of quiet time to an extra busy schedule to make sure that mentally I am strong for the job. When the opportunity to work at PFW came up, I had to consider if it would put me out of sync, disrupt the balance I have been working so hard to achieve. Of course, it will, but it is a disruption I am happy to work with. It does mean that I have also scheduled down time into my diary for when I return in order to allow me to restore my energy. I appreciate doing so is hard if you are an employee but if it can’t be built into working hours then I suggest you try and have early, quiet evenings with limited form of stimulation. I will rest, walk in nature, listen to inspirational podcasts, eat well, drink water and play with my dog. Even taking a few hours to yourself to mindfully be present and prescribe some self-care will make such a different to your energy levels. And in turn, the level of support you can then give those around you. The same is true when it comes to shooting collections. When looking at photographers, MUA, and clothes stylists it is important that they not only understand and excel in the brief but that you connect on the same energy level. It is your shoot, your concept and so you must lead it and set the vibes.

We all know the expense and emotion that goes into creating images, so try and make sure you don’t lose focus or run out of energy before shoot day. Mindfully approaching the shoot can help you stay focussed and sharing your affirmation for the shoot with the team will insure you all work as a team. The affirmation brings people together, helps set and manage expectations and demonstrates commitment. For example, I might say ‘I am bringing my best to the shoot’ or ‘I will fully express my vision in this shoot.’ Setting the intention from the beginning will keep you on track and strengthen the end result. Some recommendations: After the shoot, once the initial buzz has calmed, don’t underestimate how much of your heart, soul and energy has been poured into it. Be kind to yourself and allow balance to restore before rushing into post production decisions. Watch: CODA, I just love this film. It’s beautifully shot and feels good, following the journey of a young girl trying to balance her family commitments with her personal calling. Listen: Meditative Story – I listen to an episode of this every night when I’m ready to sleep. It combines extraordinary human stories with meditation prompts embedded in to the storylines – all surrounded by breathtaking music. Think of it as an alternative way into a mindfulness practice that helps you ease into a quality night’s sleep. I find this particularly helpful when I have a busy brain. Read: Stuart Sandeman’s Instagram page Breathpod, where he shares breath work, mind work practices and music for health and performance. This is a game changer for me.

To read Sam’s article in full click here

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special

Hair and the Start the conversation with your clients...

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LET’S GET SCIENTIFIC IAIN SALLIS MIT, Consultant Trichologist for Racoon International, explains what happens to hair during the Menopause…

For some women the Menopause is dominated by a reduction in hair volume, this can be for several reasons, but mainly it’s due to hormones and genetics. Firstly the genetics… Androgenetic alopecia is the medical term for genetic hair loss (also sometimes known as Female Pattern Hair Loss or FPHL), and this is when the hair miniaturises when influenced by circulating testosterone. You have to be genetically predisposed for this to happen. Take a look at

“Most of us have the hair thinning gene, but it is a spectrum, so this alone does not mean you are going to lose your hair!”

your family, remember what your mother’s, father’s or grandparents’ hair was like, were any of them thinning? If so it is likely you have the potential for your hair to thin genetically. But don’t worry… most of us have this gene, but it is a spectrum, so this alone does not mean you are going to lose your hair! Hormones… There are two main hormones at play with a women’s hair: Oestrogen and Testosterone. It’s easy to think of Oestrogen as ‘good’ for hair and Testosterone as ‘bad’ but it is not that simple. Oestrogen is better to be thought of as a buffer to Testosterone, the hormone that (if genetically pre-disposed) causes the hair to thin. Oestrogen naturally reduces in the women’s body during the menopause, and so

Testosterone takes more of an effect as there’s nothing to counter it. This may start the genetic thinning process but it is usually not an overnight problem and may slowly manifest itself over years. Scientific treatments… HRT may give some women a respite but we have to be careful as this may hinder as much as it may help. But there are hair friendly HRT treatments out there. Be as healthy as possible and ensuring a diet rich in protein will also help. Hair thinning can also be exacerbated by some long-term medications such as statins, long term blood pressure tablets etc... so getting fit and staying healthy should be a priority. The fitter someone is, the better their hair will grow, boring but solid advice!

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ADDRESS THE ISSUE DANNY COLES, Director at Haringtons Hairdressing, Northwood, WIL FLEESON, Director of Trichology Scotland and ANDREW BARTON, Creative Director of Headmasters give us some tips on identifying and addressing Menopause -affected hair with clients…

Identifying the signs… “It is difficult to use hair signs to diagnose menopause, and the specific stages of menopause. This is because there could be one of many reasons for the change in your client’s hair,” says Danny Coles, Director of Haringtons Hairdressing, Northwood. “Don’t be afraid to discuss hair loss with your clients, as the sooner the topic is open the quicker you can help them with the correct course of action. Ask them how they feel about their hair density, if they’ve noticed something change,” adds Wil Fleeson, Director of Trichology Scotland. “As hairdressers it’s important to notice the signs of hair loss with your client and know when the right time to recommend a trichologist is.” Starting the conversation… “Generally clients notice the change and bring up the conversation looking for advice. Clients appreciate honest advice about what is going to suit them so welcome the conversation. Simple questions such as ‘what don’t you like about your hair’, help the client to

discuss her hair openly,” says Andrew Barton, Creative Director of Headmasters. “If you are chatting to a client who is suffering with hair loss, empathy and understanding is crucial. I put myself in their shoes and imagine how I would feel,” adds Wil Fleeson. Andrew agrees, “It’s as much about how a hairdresser reacts to a client’s needs as it is about using the right language. Salon teams should have a united advice check list for clients that are seeing hair issues related to menopause, everyone from the stylist to the assistant should know what to say when a client talks about it. It’s your professional advice that will make a client feel listened to.” Giving the best advice… “Initial advice comes with

re-assessing the cut, shape, colour and styling options to the client ensuring the overall look is suitable to their hair type,” says Andrew Barton. “When talking to clients about their hair and scalp it’s also important to mention that it’s not just about looking after the exterior of the hair with good quality products, but it’s also important that clients look after their hair from within – living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, getting enough sleep and having the right nutrient and mineral intake,” says Wil Fleeson. “Tell your clients to LOVE THEIR HAIR, use the best products to keep their hair healthy and strong,” says Danny Coles. “The best advice is to see a trichologist and have a full consultation. They will recommend the best treatments on offer.”

“If you are chatting to a client who is suffering with hair loss, empathy and understanding is crucial. I put myself in their shoes and imagine how I would feel.” Wil Fleeson

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TALK TREATMENT Trained Trichologist and Creative Director of Russell Eaton Hair, ROBERT EATON talks consultations, treatment plans and helpful services…

Sensitive subject… Hair loss is obviously a very sensitive condition for many people, and can be particularly distressing for women. As a trained trichologist, I offer hair loss services as part of our everyday salon service menu. This can help clients feel more comfortable as we already have an existing relationship and there’s a trust there already. A salon environment can be a really intimidating place if you are suffering from hair loss, so we also offer to see clients during quieter times when they can have more privacy. Client consultation… Bespoke consultations are an important part of this type of service, and are used to determine the cause of the hair loss. This involves a detailed examination of the hair and scalp, analysis of blood work, diet, and the client’s lifestyle. I use all of this information to create a treatment plan, which could include supplements, stress management, and a gentle

home hair care regime to improve both the scalp and hair health. Suggested services… My treatment plans for menopausal hair loss often combine hairdressing services, too. There are lots of technical things we can do to help clients feel more confident with their hair, particularly while they are waiting for treatments to work. Colour is a great way to disguise hair loss and enhance what’s there, which is why it’s so important to understand working with colour on finer hair textures, or with those living with hair loss. There are also cutting techniques we can use to create the impression of fuller hair, without making clients feel as though they’re losing too much hair – usually the last thing they want. Styling and product recommendations also play a huge part in boosting confidence, which is why it’s so important to show clients what you’re using and explain the benefits of individual products.

“I offer hair loss services as part of our everyday salon service menu. This can help clients feel more comfortable as we already have an existing relationship and there’s a trust there already.”

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In an interesting new series, COLIN McANDREW, Managing Director of Medusa salon group in Scotland, will discuss topics sensitive to women but important for men to understand. He begins with the subject of the Menopause which sits very nicely within our Menopause Hair Special this month.

START THE COVERSATION Changing the culture of the workplace is something I am becoming increasingly passionate about. Last year, as a brand, Medusa introduced complimentary sanitary products for both clients and team members and launched the Salon Safe campaign, an initiative to let females know that should they ever feel vulnerable on the street, our salons offer a safe, welcoming space for them to step into.

In my opinion, there is much more work to be done to address the issues women have to contend with on a daily basis. This is why I believe that I should, that we should, as managers, stylists, employers, as partners, brothers, uncles, as men, start the conversation around ‘taboo’ subjects our female peers experience first-hand. In this article I will be talking openly about the Menopause. Honestly, I’m not sure I even really understood what the Menopause was this time last year. I knew it was a biological change that happened to

women in their late 40s/early 50s, and it came with some side effects. It wasn’t until we started to look at the culture of salons and question why so many females choose to leave as they grow older, did I begin to realise the impact going through menopause can have on a woman. Symptoms can be stressful, debilitating and completely life-changing. 25% of menopausal women consider leaving the workplace due to the Menopause, and one in every 10 women will hand in their notice. Over 50% of our population will experience the Menopause so why isn’t it talked about? 1 in 100 of those women will experience early Menopause, meaning that symptoms will begin before the age of 50. Look around your salon, I would guess that at least one member of your team is experiencing menopausal symptoms today. And if they aren’t, I guarantee a high percentage of your clients are. This is why I have booked myself on the Menopause in the Workplace course. I want

to understand exactly what the women in my life will have to endure. My wife, my sisters, my team, my peers, my clients, my friends – it is going to happen to them all so it is my duty to be fully prepared to have helpful conversations around the subject. I have also arranged for a Menopause campaigner to visit each of the salon teams to explain what the Menopause is, how it impacts the body, and what as a team and/or colleague we can do to support each other. From here, we will create a Menopause Policy around the working environment for the team, and arrange regular training for the team so they are equipped to make the client’s trip to the salon as comfortable as possible. There is a lot we need to learn and change if we want to continue growing and offering a supportive working environment to all. As men, we need to educate ourselves. And I’m happy to start the conversation about the Menopause. Stats from healthawareness.co.uk

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KEVIN.MURPHY FULL.AGAIN is a hardworking thickening lotion that boosts body and bounce. Created with an abundance of tiny rayon particles that adhere to the hair shaft making it appear fuller, FULL.AGAIN creates naturally soft movement, leaving fine or thinning hair looking lush. www.rdr.link/HK010

The Alterna CAVIAR Anti-Aging Clinical Densifying range including Shampoo, Foam Conditioner and Scalp Treatment, has been proven to help improve the scalp’s natural barrier and has been found to significantly improve hair texture, thickness and condition. The Foam Conditioner has been designed to increase volume and density to make hair appear fuller. www.rdr.link/HK009

The SACHAJUAN Thickening Shampoo and Conditioner provides volume in two steps. Firstly, the new Thickening Shampoo and Conditioner uses technology that increases the thickness of each hair strand and creates a strong base for styling. Secondly it also incorporates the brand’s Ocean Silk Technology with natural algae for better shine and surface feel with added heat protection. www.rdr.link/HK011

HAIR DENSIFYING, SCALP STIMULATING AND GROWTH PROMOTING PRODUCTS TO RECOMMEND TO YOUR MENOPAUSAL CLIENTS.

THE THICK OF IT MONAT Densifying range is a three-step treatment system bringing density back to thinning hair. Suitable for all hair types, this luxury vegan haircare collection thickens, protects, and strengthens strands for a noticeably fuller look, delivered in a fuss-free, hectic lifestyle-friendly regime. Includes CAPIXYL, which is an effective emollient blend that helps safeguard the scalp, and strengthen and thicken hair while supporting natural growth. www.rdr.link/HK012

Nioxin Density Defend is a lightweight leave-in strengthening foam for coloured hair. The styling foam’s DensiProtect technology provides up to 93% reduction in hair breakage, prevents loss of hair density and improves the vibrancy and longevity of hair colour. www.rdr.link/HK013

Grow by Hair Gain is a ground-breaking new supplement, harnessing the power of the pea shoot, to give incredible hairgrowth results of up to 78% in just one month of use. This game changing product was designed specifically for the 8 million UK women who suffer from hair loss at some point in their life. www.rdr.link/HK014

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씱 Add some life to fine, limp hair in an instant with the Total Results High Amplify Wonder Boost Root Lifter from Matrix. It features a targeted applicator for lift that can be directed at the root area or for a more voluminous finish, spray Root Lifter all over. It can be used on dry or damp hair. www.rdr.link/HK015

씱 The MANTA Pulse will rejuvenate any hair and scalp routine, invigorating circulation and increasing blood flow. The stimulating pulsations deliver oxygen to the scalp while gently exfoliating to clear dead skin cells, creating the perfect conditions for hair growth. The gentle massage also reduces tension to create a relaxing self-care moment. www.rdr.link/HK016 씱 The Energizing Ritual from Alter Ego Italy will help hair to become stronger and more resistant thanks to a fine blend of natural vitamins and ingredients. With up to 97% of the ingredients of natural origin this ritual is the perfect restorative treatment to re-energise fragile, thin hair, focusing on improving scalp health, stimulating hair growth and offering a complete treatment for clients. www.rdr.link/HK017

씱 AVEDA Invati Advanced Thickening Foam is a transformative liquid-to-foam styling product that instantly plumps each individual strand of hair with touchable hold and shine that lasts all day. 90% of women said their hair looked thicker and fuller instantly and all day after use. www.rdr.link/HK018

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Continuing our creative collaboration, the mega-talented Desmond Murray once more takes up the creative mantle of art directing another up-and-coming young stylist to produce some more stunning imagery exclusively for Professional Hairdresser.

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SQUAD GOALS

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ART DIRECTOR As one of the most familiar and longstanding faces on the UK hair scene, Desmond Murray has managed to carve out a career that has stayed as fresh, dynamic and forward-thinking as the day he started out. Desmond Murray is known for his bold vision and big personality. A multi award-winning hairdresser, he’s scooped a whole clutch of the industry’s biggest accolades. There are not many hair stylists who can claim to be as multi-dimensional as Desmond either. Not only has he won praise for the technical skill and ingenuity of his beautifully imagined collections, he is also accomplished behind the camera too. @desmondmurray

MAKE-UP ARTIST Award-winning Lauren Mathis is no stranger to the hair world – her makeup skills have contributed to a multitude of award-winning shoots. @laurenmathismua

FASHION STYLIST Amelia has worked in the fashion industry for three years working for Vivienne Westwood and Karen Millen doing both design and styling. Being a stylist, Amelia Nevitt likes to showcase new or student designs as she believes it’s vital to showcase new talent as this is where the future of fashion is. @amelianevittstyling

GUEST HAIRDRESSER Award-winning George Smith bases his barbering skills at the TONI&GUY salon in Salisbury. Cited as ‘one to watch’ his talent has already earned him global recognition. @georgexsmith

PHOTOGRAPHER Chris Bulezuik is no stranger to the hairdressing scene having secured several award wins for the role he played in creating the imagery. @chrisbulezuikphotography

MODEL @thehairdesk

MODEL (opposite left) @thehairdesk

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BEHIND Access all areas to getting the cover collection camera ready.

THE SCENES

“I created my collection based on the stunning Spring and Summer tones developed for the new Goldwell Colorance Gloss Tones range. I love the juxtaposition of the soft pastels with the vivid deep tones and wanted to use this in my collection to showcase the contrast and texture through these colours. The Colorance Gloss Tones range comes in an amazing selection of expressive fashion shades and it’s an ammonia free cream colour which can be used to enhance the natural colour tones of the client’s hair. The new Colorance Gloss Tones, which included 15 shades of beautiful blonde, create a superior shine and enhanced brilliance, which can be achieved in just a 10-minute treatment.”

WITH MARTIN CREAN

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MAKE-UP The brief for the make-up on the day was natural, muted glamour to create a neutral base next to the hair colours.

CUTTING I took a holistic approach to the styles as I wanted to show precision cutting and soft blends of colour.

STYLING Working with stylist Magdalena Jacobs I asked for cool, neutral tones in styling to ensure the focus of the images was on the hair.

RESULTS It was a busy, long but very satisfying day and I’m really pleased with the results.

Hair Martin Crean @ MODE Make Up Roseanna Velin Styling Magdalena Jacobs Photography Richard Miles Products Goldwell

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MARTIN CREAN

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L’ANZA Hair Ludovic Beckers & the L’ANZA European Team Styling Max Zara Sterck Photography Shari Ruzzi

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‘Our collection was heavily inspired by colour and the way it is often used in print. From the Benetton adverts of the 80s to today’s LOVE Magazine, colour was our starting point. We wanted to make a statement, with high, vibrant energy that showed off our colour expertise.’

Hair Medusa Make-up Jak Morgan & Paulina Siembor Stylist Ian Tod Photography Jodie Mann Products Wella Professionals

POP MEDUSA

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Haringtons Signorile

is refined, yet glamorously undone. A combination of accessible cuts and colours, which embrace natural styles, lengths and textures, layered with the sleekest blow dry, the barely there wave or an accessory to die for. The kind of effortlessly chic glamour that leaves you wondering just how they do it.

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Hair Barry Maddocks – UK Creative Director Jo Eykyn, James Cavanagh, Jasmine Buckle Make-up Vanessa Elles Styling Lewis Robert Cameron Photography Philip Veitch Film Production Richard Watts

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colour close-up

Revlon Professional promises a much-needed return to bold and daring colours with the Nutri Color Filters Metal-Ice collection. It’s time to lower the temperature and see colour through a Metal-Ice lens with new sophisticated, cool metallic shades that are set to become a key trend of the Spring/Summer season. Revlon Professional has expanded its versatile and exciting palette with new Nutri Color Filters: Metal-Ice.

Metal-Ice More metallic than ever, the Nutri Color Filters range shimmers with two new Metal-Ice shades: Mauve Blonde and Iced Rose, the perfect options to create cool, shiny and personalised multi-coloured results. The Metal-Ice family is completed with three of Revlon Professional’s best-selling shades: Intense Platinum, Pale Platinum and Intense Silver, meaning trusted tones for a more neutralised, cooler and metallic finish.

SUSTAINABLE & VEGAN Nutri Color Filters don’t use any animal-derived ingredients, offering a better balance between convenience, performance and sustainability, in all shades.

Discover more about Nutri Color Filters and their mixing possibilities at: www.rdr.link/HK019

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colour close-up SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL INTRODUCES NEW IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS FOR HEALTHY-LOOKING COOL BLONDE COLOUR.

LIFT ME UP Now more than ever, clients want shiny and healthy-looking hair no matter the service and this is demanding more from lifting and highlighting products. Schwarzkopf Professional is here to raise (or lift) the bar, with a range boasting even stronger lifting performance and neutralisation power with added hair protection. INTRODUCING IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS Schwarzkopf Professional has revamped the IGORA ROYAL Highlifts portfolio, which includes shades based on level 10 and 12, allowing for up to 4 and 5 levels of powerful lift. Thanks to the innovative TrueLift Complex and Bonding Technology IGORA ROYAL Highlifts allows for a more powerful lift while strongly neutralising warm undertones and protects the inner hair structure during the lifting process – for the most bright and clear blonde results. Fibre Bond Technology is also built directly into the colour cream to protect the bonds within the hair structure during the lifting process. With IGORA ROYAL Highlifts you can be the colourist you want to be. Because everything is already inside.

IGORA ROYAL product details, iconic looks, education and how-to tutorials can be found on the Schwarzkopf Professional website: www.rdr.link/HK020 and across digital channels.

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1. TOTAL TREATMENT 2 1

Insight Professional Rebuild is an in-salon two-step system that is designed to restore the integrity of the hair fibre and its protein content, improving its shine, comb-ability, strength and elasticity. www.rdr.link/HK021

2. DOWN TO EARTH This Earth Month, Aveda is supporting charity: water as it seeks to provide clean water to people in need with the launch of the limited edition Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar. Featuring Abyssinian oil, it gently cleanses and provides weightless, long-lasting nourishment while infusing hair with Aveda’s signature calming aroma. $5 (£3.80) from each bar goes to projects with charity: water. www.rdr.link/HK022

3. WHIPPED UP

4 5

The light, airy texture of new American Crew WHIP creates definition and separation, while enhancing fullness and volume. Distributing easily, it leaves hair soft and moisturised and all with a subtle, minty fresh fragrance. www.rdr.link/HK023

4. DREAM CURLS 6

Comprising four moisturising and shaping products for curls and coils, Matrix’s all new A Curl Can Dream line offers curly-haired clients the chance to express their hair’s natural texture with confidence. www.rdr.link/HK024

5. BEST OF BLONDE 7

Indola has launched the Blonde Expert Care range with new Integrated Hair-Bond Technology for brilliant blonde looks with high shine. www.rdr.link/HK025

6. PASTEL PERFECT Part of the limited edition iD collection inspired by Gen Z, ghd has released the platinum+, gold and original styler in super sweet pastel shades. www.rdr.link/HK026

7. TO THE ROOT

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

Great Lengths are proud to introduce seven new shades to their Rooted range to create depth and dimension to any look. The collection offers soft contrasting shades and bold transitions to ensure clients are always on trend. www.rdr.link/HK027

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GiVEAWAY

The Kobe Bronze Ionic Brush from Coolblades helps reduce frizz for astonishing smooth, sleek results with every blow dry. The heat-retaining ceramic barrel is finished in an eye-catching bronze and is coated with semi-precious tourmaline that gives off frizz-busting negative ions when heated. This ionic action helps the hair lie flat for a smooth, sleek look and adds dazzling, glossy shine. The Kobe Bronze Ionic Brush comes in six sizes (19, 25, 32, 42, 53 and 65 mm) giving you great versatility, whether you’re curling short hair or really getting to grips with long styles. It’s also incredibly lightweight, so your wrist and arm will be less tired at the end of the day.

GiVEAWAY

Denman’s new Signature Styling Set is the ideal collection of brushes to boost your kit and it comes all wrapped up in a stunning embroidered beauty pouch. These are the pro brushes you need for day-to-day styling. The Signature Styling Set includes: 앩 The D90L Tangle Tamer Ultra - a powerful large wet and dry detangling hairbrush, that’s perfect for long and thick hair and ideal for wigs and extensions. 앩 The D38 Power Paddle - combines the smooth, styling power of Denman’s iconic styling pins with the Denman paddle brush to create the definitive professional paddle. 앩 The D81M Medium Style and Shine Brush - a mixed bristle is a combination of natural bristles that add shine and a flexible nylon bristle that gently detangles and refreshes the hair. 앩 The D6 Blue Be Bop Handy Detangler Brush - gently detangles wet and dry hair and helps at the back wash to distribute shampoo and conditioner and massages and invigorates the scalp.

We have one set of six Kobe Bronze Ionic brushes to give away, worth £34.99. Please visit www.rdr.link/HK028 to enter.

We have three Denman Signature Styling Sets to give away worth £74.50 each. Please visit www.rdr.link/HK029 to enter.

COMPETITION

Rapture is offering an amazing competition exclusively for Pro Hair readers… you’ve got to be in it to win it!

Win a full Rapture Hair Extension Set Up kit and one day’s training for one stylist at Rapture’s head office worth £399.00. THIS AMAZING PRIZE INCLUDES: 앩 Rapture Shampoo

앩 Rapture Gown

앩 Rapture Intensive Shampoo

앩 4 Packets of 10” Rapture Original Hair (worth up to £192.00)

앩 Rapture Conditioner 앩 Rapture Shade Ring 앩 1 x Packet of Rapture Cuttings 앩 Rapture Tangle Tamer 앩 Consultation forms

앩 Easi Weft Holder

PLUS… 앩 1 day’s intense training at the Rapture head office in Wroxton.

앩 Aftercare forms

To enter, simply sign up for a free sample pack visit www.rdr.link/HK030. Entry will be drawn at random from the selection on the 29th April 2022. Good luck!

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spotlight

BEFORE YOU REACH FOR THE BLEACH

MALiBU C CRYSTAL GEL iS YOUR FiRST PORT OF CALL TO PREP HAiR BEFORE YOUR SERViCE.

Approximately 60% of UK households are categorised as having hard to very hard water and this can cause real problems for our hair. Mineral deposits from copper, iron, calcium and magnesium damage the hair strands and without addressing the issue you could do more harm when you provide a service. Therefore, Passion4hair have adopted the ‘before you reach for the bleach’ mindset. Use Malibu C Crystal Gel to prepare the hair to achieve softer and more predictable results. It provides the perfect base for completing colour services by drawing out damaging build up from hard water minerals and medication.

MALIBU C CRYSTAL GEL

✔ PREPS HAiR FOR ALL CHEMiCAL SERViCES ✔ REMOVES BUiLD-UP AND DiSCOLOURATiON ✔ SAVES TiME AND PREVENTS COLOUR CORRECTiONS ✔ 100% VEGAN

HOW TO USE... Combine Malibu C Crystal Gel Crystals with warm water and mix well.

Section hair evenly and apply the freshly activated Crystal Gel to wet hair shampooed with Malibu C Un-Do-Goo.

Bag and process under heat for a minimum of 10 minutes to eliminate brassy, ashy or muddy discolouration, or up to 45 minutes for complete removal of hard water and mineral build up.

Shampoo well with Malibu C Un-Do-Goo and rinse thoroughly.

Proceed with service now that Malibu C Crystal Gel has removed colour blockers and optimised soothing relief from scalp irritation.

5 Exclusively distributed by Passion4hair Ltd. www.rdr.link/HK031

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spotlight

Going for Gold COMBINING THE CONDUCTIVITY OF GOLD WITH THE SMOOTH CONTROL OF MINERAL OIL CERAMIC, DIVA PRO STYLING UNVEILS THE GOLD DUST COLLECTION. Diva Pro Styling has officially gone for gold, as they introduce the new Gold Dust range of styling tools. With this dazzling new selection of products, the Gold Dust collection combines mineral oil ceramic with the heat conductivity of gold, for super-smooth styling and long lasting, shiny styles. The Gold Dust collection offers a range of stylers from an all-new straightener, a variety of curling tools to a highly anticipated hot brush. Diva Pro Styling is ensuring that your salon is equipped with the latest

technology, to get your customers feeling and looking their best. They say that all that glitters is not gold, however, the new Gold Dust range speaks for itself and absolutely glitters. The Gold Dust collection by Diva Pro Styling also comes with reusable, recyclable, and plastic-free packaging. The luxe new packaging includes the all-new silky, gold metal tin packaging, as well as a brand new eco-felt pouch that doubles up as a heat-proof mat for your styling tool.

Find out more at at www.rdr.link/HK032

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VISIT

THE HAIR SURGERY Tim Scott-Wright opened The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge in February 2014, bringing his wealth of hair knowledge to the area and recruiting a team of talented local stylists. Celebrating its 8th anniversary, Tim has always viewed his salon as a place for people to stay connected to their community and to feel good about themselves.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR? We undertook a redesign of our salon in 2019 and this was driven by three key factors – enhancing the client experience, boosting our creative output and creating an environment that was reflective of the high-quality hairdressing we produce. As a forward thinking, neighbourhood salon, our aim was to create a space that was reflective of our sociable, welcoming and inclusive brand ethos, while accommodating the flow and functionality needed to support our team’s creativity. It was also important that the salon met our clients’ expectations – a top end salon needs to look premium.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN? We love interior design and were inspired by some of the fabulously eccentric homes you find on Instagram, particularly those with a retro feel. There’s an eclectic mix of furniture and accessories with a good balance of masculine and feminine design touches, a theme that reflects the diversity of our work and services. To achieve this, we drew inspiration from the popular industrial chic and botanical trends, but with a vintage

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WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY? Much of our furniture, fixtures and fittings were custom made for the salon, which was important to us to make sure we had a thoughtful salon, built around the needs of our team and clients.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR? The salon is fun, comfortable, functional and stylish – a home from home for our customers and a creative workspace for our team that showcases the aspects of our personality that are central to our business. It’s really important to us that our clients feel welcome and relaxed in our salon, and so we made interior design choices that centred around creating a social environment. We also wanted people to feel uplifted and looked after, so our luxury touches and quirky style really help to embody this. Our salon is a place where people can retreat, have fun and of course leave with great hair! WHAT DO YOU HOPE IS YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSION WHEN THEY WALK IN? We hope our clients feel welcomed and relaxed and for their time in the salon to be a real treat – a little bit of luxury away from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. Our salon is an escape from all the worries and stresses of life, and we know our clients feel renewed when they leave.

At the sections, our tan leather barber chairs are durable and able to withstand lots of clients passing through but look totally stylish and comfortable which is really important for the vibe of the salon. Our sections are a light ash wood, again these are extremely durable and easy to clean but look sleek and stylish, while matching the tone of the flooring for a seamless interior style. We had bespoke box shelves in a striking copper metal for our retail displays. We specifically chose to have floating shelves throughout the main salon, in order to create more space and position products at a comfortable eye line for our customers during appointments. DO YOU HAVE DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM? We asked the team what they would prefer to wear to work, and they all said they would like to stick to the traditional black. They like having a uniform for work that is different to their everyday clothes. They wear their own clothes so they can still express their own style but just all black. I feel this helps clients distinguish staff from other clients.

salon profile

undertone. Soft furnishings and ornate accessories add comfort and luxury while the copper shelving and leather barber chairs provide a masculine edge. The goal was to blend a neighbourhood hairdresser with a city salon – an unintimidating space that also delivers the ‘wow’ factor. Tonally we have gone for rich, earthy, calming colours throughout with deep blue/green walls, an ashy wood effect floor and tan leather chairs. We wanted the salon to feel inviting and cosy, not stark and intimidating. The lighting is soft and warm coloured metals in our shelving and interior accessories bring a bit of sparkle.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES/AREAS IN THE SALON? An important part of achieving the comfortable, social feel of the salon was the design of the seating area. This large space is integral to the salon as it signifies the things that are important to our business and reflect our personality. We have some clients that like to stay and socialise long after their appointment has ended so this area is really key to make people feel at home. We styled the space as if it were a living room with a large comfortable leather corner sofa, statement mustard leather occasional chairs and ornate coffee tables. There is also a refreshments bar and a large TV on the wall. The area is intended to be used when clients first enter the salon, as well as while their colours develop or even after their appointment to sit and relax.

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hairdressers at home This issue we talk to three times British Hairdresser of the Year and industry pioneer Sally Brooks of Brooks & Brooks…

best building Renovation

best hobby Oh so many! I can’t sit still for long; my two dogs are my favourite pastime and the loves of my life. Making things with clay and sculpture is so therapeutic so if I have had a busy or a stressful day, I just get out a lump of clay and make something. I also love painting and trying out new things; my house has so many pots and art stuff in it.

I’m a bit of a property magnet – I love interior design and redesign – and I would move every two years if I could as I love new beginnings. I love to see a building restored and love a mix of old and new. So I love all sorts of buildings and properties and am always looking at pins on this; bars, restaurants, hotels, lights, walls, trends. So I suppose it’s more design rather than architecture.

best show Les Miserables Is my favourite show for a couple of reasons; I love the music and the cast is always exceptional. I could see it over and over again or just listen to the music. It’s also my parents’ favourite show and my family sing when they get together so it has a strong family bond.

best book The Atlas of Beauty

best box set Emily in Paris It’s just on in the background without me needing to use my brain and I love that about it!

Mihaela Noroc travels the world with her camera taking pictures of natural beauty. I think the images are stunning and in my other life I would have loved the opportunity to do something this real and passionate. It really captures beauty in a way that I find really inspiring.

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