Professional Hairdresser March 2024

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PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

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K LEESON

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MARCH 2024

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ISSUE 02 MARCH 2024

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CONTENTS W

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MA

RK LEESON

REGULARS

BUSINESS

PORTFOLIO

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FIRST WORD

29 A GOOD HEAD FOR BUSINESS

50 Jason Cocking & Chris Baker

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HEADLINES

With Natasha Grossman of

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OUT OUT at Wella Red Business

HOB Salons

Network Live 12

Phil Smith interviews Beverly C 16

30 NEED TO KNOW TRICHO

HOW TO FAIL

With Mark Blake 31

SCREEN

Errol Douglas MBE interviews

With Ben Lifton

22 COLOUR MEMO

SPECIAL

24 STYLE MEMO

32 FREELANCE FORUM

26 SUSTAINABLE MEMO

33 SHEILA ABRAHAMS

28 BUSINESS MEMO

34 RUTH LUNDSTROM

62 BOOKED..!

35 LACEY HUNTER-FELTON

Luke Benson 64 VISIT HOB Salons Cockfosters 66 5 MINUTES WITH… Carolyn Newman

PRODUCTS 58 SHOP THE DROP!

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE

Chris Foster

54 F&M Hairdressing

36 FREELANCE EDIT 42 LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! Special Partnership with Revlon Professional

Latest products 60 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL 61

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT INDOLA

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THE PRO HAIR AWARDS ARE NOW OPEN FOR BUSINESS! Imagine yourself as the Professional Hairdresser of the Year or the Professional Salon of the Year ( just to name two) – don’t just imagine it, give yourself the chance to achieve it and enter now!

One of the many benefits of winning a Pro Hair Award is the word ‘Professional’ – that is THE one word that, more than any other, signals to your existing and potential clients that you are really really good at what you do! It’s singularly the most important word that instils trust and confidence in you as a hairdresser.

So, what are you waiting for? Turn to page 18 for all the details on how to enter.

In our special this month, we look at the freelance side of our industry with professional insight and expert advice on what it’s like to work as a freelance hairdresser. We also introduce a new, regular section to the magazine called Freelance Forum on page 32.

Each issue, our freelance authorities will touch upon all aspects of business that are relevant and vital to this sector of our industry. Please get in touch if there is anything specific that you would like them to cover over the coming months.

Finally, if you’re looking for some fresh hair inspo, Mark Leeson returns in our Lights! Camera!

Action! Special Partnership with Revlon Professional. Switching it up for 2024, we are loving the work the team has created for our front cover and inside on page 42.

Enjoy the issue.

@PROHAIRMAG

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Q @PROHAIRMAG

MARCH 2024

Editorial Director

Designer

Nicola Shannon

Donna Booth

nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager W

ITH

MAR

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Rebecca Mcgeoch

K LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF.

Commercial Manager Laura Jowsey ljowsey@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial & Sales Enquiries Phone: 01923 237799

HAIR: BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM & KAY BINNERSLEY FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL

24,495

• July 22 – June 23

PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MILES

Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year – £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year – £50 post paid Airmail: 1 year – £80 post paid.

To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.co.uk. ©2024 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

HEADLINES PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE CELEBRATES ITS 20TH ANNIVERSARY Phorest Salon Software marked its 20th year with a special hosting of its 8th annual flagship event, the Salon Owners Summit.

Taking place in Dublin, the conference attracted over 600 salon owners from across the world. The two days were curated to be inspirational, educational and immersive, bringing together a diverse group of speakers to talk about the latest industry trends and opportunities, as well as new Phorest technology innovations for salon owners across the globe.

ANOTHER HIT FOR HARINGTONS Haringtons has announced the rebrand of its Amersham salon, Gatsby & Miller, as part of its ongoing investment and expansion strategy.

Originally acquiring the salon in 2022, the salon site will now officially fall under the group’s award-winning portfolio. The acquisition marks a memorable year for the esteemed salon group as it also celebrates its 40th anniversary.

KAO ANNOUNCES ITS GLOBAL CREATIVE AWARDS FOR 2024 Kao Salon Division has officially announced that the entry phase for the 2024 Global Creative Awards will run from May 15th to May 31st 2024. The Awards will take place fully virtually this year, enabling more professionals from around the globe to showcase their talent.

AN ICONIC MOVE Wella Professionals has launched a brand-new subscription-based education platform, Wella ICONS. The interactive digital platform will provide a practical way of learning the very latest skills, techniques and trends, from anywhere in the country.

To find out more or to subscribe now, visit: www.rdr.link/HAR001

ARE YOU AN AMBITIOUS APPRENTICE? The HOB Apprenticeship Academy is now offering external training for any apprentices aged 16+. As well as working in the salon four days a week, the programme also requires apprentices to spend one day a week at the HOB Apprenticeship Academy in Camden, covering both theory and practical course components. The team also offers in-salon training for those unable to attend the Apprenticeship Academy.

For more information, email: Treena@hobsalons.com

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Anne Veck (Anne Veck Hair) and Melenie Tudor (En Route Hair & Beauty) have been chosen as the inaugural Salon Champions for the Hairstyling Tool Collective. Founded by Olivia Garden Europe and Denman International, the sustainability alliance aims to lessen the environmental impact of hair tool products throughout the industry. Martyn Wady, International Business Manager at Denman, says “Our Champions will offer invaluable insight to ensure that the Collective is delivering on all of its commitments”.

BENEVOLENT BARBERING With recent support from Denman, Maghaberry Prison, a high security facility for 1000+ male prisoners in Northern Ireland, has created no less than four on-site barbershops. Denman team member, Maria Stafford, describes her recent trip: “It was wonderful to hear from the prisoners, including many of the trained barbers. They believe that learning barbering has positively changed their lives, giving them a reason to get out of bed every day.” Having provided the gowns, brushes and combs used by all working barbers at Maghaberry, Denman is now actively seeking other prison barbering training programmes to support across the country.

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

ALL HAIL THE SALON CHAMPIONS!

JASON JOHNSON: BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR OSMO OSMO has appointed its latest Brand Ambassador: Jason Johnson. Having used OSMO in his shop for several years, both his team and customers quickly became fans of the range, “It’s a fantastic range that has something for everyone really,” says Jason. “This is a great opportunity to work closer with the OSMO team.”

SHEILA ABRAHAMS: MBE FOR OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION TO THE FREELANCE HAIRDRESSING COMMUNITY Sheila Abrahams, a trailblazer in the world of freelance hairdressing and the founder of the Freelance Hairdressers Association (FHA), has been awarded the prestigious Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) for her remarkable contributions to the freelance hairdressing industry. With over three decades of commitment to the industry, Sheila has played a pivotal role in fostering a sense of community, providing education and advocating for the rights and interests of freelance hairdressers.

DANIEL COUCH: ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF RUSSELL EATON Having been with the company for 11 years, Daniel Couch now celebrates his new role as Artistic Director of Russell Eaton. With a host of award wins under his belt, Daniel has a true passion for all things colour. His new role will see him working on the creative direction of the brand, as well as working with its stylists to ensure the team are fully trained in the latest techniques and trends.

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out out...

LIVE FROM LIVERPOOL WELLA PROFESSIONALS delivers another outstanding Business Network Live.

First it was Eurovision, then came the Wella RED Business Network Live as Liverpool welcomed this popular hairdressing event to the city and its new home at the stunning Titanic Hotel.

Business Network Live is a firm favourite with the Wella family and 2024 did not disappoint. Over the two days, delegates enjoyed the perfect balance of inspirational content delivered by exceptional motivational speakers, teamed with networking amongst like-minded hairdressing peers and, of course, plenty of entertainment.

The host for the two days was industry face, Dom Lehane, who introduced the impressive line-up of guest speakers – each one of them compelling in different ways, but all with advice and insights for the audience to challenge and grow both on a professional and personal level.

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DOM LEHANE

CHRISTIAN HOWES

PROFESSOR STEVE PETERS

JONO LANCASTER

WELLA MD MAX AMEN

Alison Edgar MBE, aka The Entrepreneur’s Godmother, was a lively start to proceedings as she discussed goals and getting what you want. Time management will never be the same again as she introduced the room to her practical solution for this, known as ‘Alison Edgar’s Big Balls’.

Digital Marketer, Christian Howes followed – he ‘sexed up’ number crunching and explained how ‘relevant data content is entertaining’ and if that data is utilised correctly, how it can grow your business.

Next up, a lesson in behavioural science from Richard Shotton who highlighted how making changes to the way you approach things can help solve business challenges.

Bringing the conference back to the reality of salon business, was the return of the popular hairdressing panel discussion where a stellar line-up of salon owners and leaders shared insights and opinions on the day-to-day realities facing salons up and down the country.

The final speaker on day one introduced us to our ‘inner chimp’.

A fascinating session with Professor Steve Peters helped us to understand how our mind works and how we can develop skills to optimise our individual performance.

Always a highlight, the gala evening was spent in true Wella style as delegates enjoyed a celebration dinner with entertainment and dancing into the early hours.

Back in the room, day two kicked off with Daniel Ashville inspiring the audience with the story of his journey to success, his message being ‘it’s important to control your own narrative’ when it comes to business.

And then, by far the most emotional part of the whole event was the moving and uplifting hour we had the privilege of spending with Jono Lancaster and his message of ‘self-acceptance’. Born with facial differences, Jono shared with the audience the severe challenges he has battled in his life and how he has transformed those terrible lows into strengths. Jono’s standing ovation at the end was a credit to just how much he moved the audience. Everyone in that room took away a little more love in their hearts thanks to Jono!

To round-off the conference, business leader Ellis Watson finished with an enthusiastic, energetic and entertaining presentation on how to lead your business through disruption and embracing change: ‘Press the ‘sod it’ button, be brave and challenge yourself!’ was his mantra.

Delivering the perfect combination of business ideas and networking opportunities, the Wella RED Business Network Live 2024 delivered both on motivation and inspiration, with guests going back to their salons firedup for the year ahead.

ALISON EDGAR MBE

RICHARD SHOTTON

DANIEL ASHVILLE

ELLIS WATSON

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PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL FINDS OUT THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND THE LESSONS THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.

HOW TO FAIL

THIS ISSUE, PHIL TALKS TO HAIRDRESSING LEGEND BEVERLY C MBE. AS A FEMALE TRAILBLAZER AND UNDISPUTED ‘QUEEN’ OF THE UK HAIR INDUSTRY, BEVERLY HAS WON MULTIPLE AWARDS AND RECEIVED RECOGNITION THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. A HUGE INSPIRATION TO SO MANY, SHE TELLS PHIL ABOUT OVERCOMING MOMENTS OF SELF-DOUBT AND WHY A SOLID PLAN IS THE SECRET TO SUCCESS…

THANKS SO MUCH FOR CHATTING TO ME TODAY BEV. I THINK PEOPLE’S PERCEPTION OF SOMEONE LIKE YOU IS THAT THEY’VE BEEN SUPER SUCCESSFUL ALL THEIR CAREER – AND MAYBE THEY LIVE ON A CARIBBEAN ISLAND NOW (LAUGHS)! BUT ACTUALLY, THEY’RE STILL GRAFTING REALLY HARD AND THE TRUTH IS, IT NEVER GETS EASIER. SO MY FIRST QUESTION TO YOU IS, WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE OR ‘FAILURE’ SO FAR… IN OTHER WORDS, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKE? I mean, listen, businesses are full of mistakes and challenges, but without them, you don’t learn anything. So, a mistake for me is knowledge. I think if you start to look at a ‘mistake’ as being positive knowledge for you, then it becomes an easier lesson. So there’s that side of it. A failure, mistake, challenge (whatever you want to call it!) is there to guide you on the right path, not to try to shut you down. There are also two sides to hairdressing – a business side and a creative side, and I’m the first to admit there’s been mistakes on both sides. One of the biggest mistakes we made was opening too many salons too soon. At one stage, we had the salon in Mayfair, which we had a long lease on, and then we opened up a small salon – big mistake – in the Marriott Hotel, and then we opened a salon in Kensington, not the one we have now, which was within a consortium called Hype DF. Plus, in the background of that, I was traveling like an absolute idiot – four countries a month and all this sort of stuff! I think the mistake is that you end up spreading yourself so thin and juggling too many balls, then everything is supporting the other and it becomes an absolute jumbled mess to be honest.

WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM THIS? I’d been travelling around America for about 10 years by then, and there were these beautiful, big super-salons opening up with their own little spa area within them. One of the things we really wanted to do was to open a salon like that over here – that was the goal. But instead, we started out with all these little salons, and it ran us so thin and we couldn’t concentrate on one thing properly. We realised we were overdoing it. So, the lesson we learned is that you have to pull it back and be able to control your business with a solid plan.

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interview

EVEN THOUGH YOU WERE PROBABLY SINKING A LITTLE BIT, YOU WERE STILL SUCH AN INSPIRATION TO ALL OF US BECAUSE YOU WERE DOING SOMETHING THAT WE ALL WANTED. IT WAS GREAT TO WITNESS. Well, it made us remember the dream of that original salon vision we had, and we then spent four years trying to find the venue for it. We always knew we were going to shut down Mayfair once that lease was up; there was no passing trade and it was a really difficult salon. It was a good salon, but nothing to make us grow into the level that we wanted to be. I think salon owners have a moral obligation to make sure the business is successful and earning enough profits to share with the rest of the staff. If you’re constantly working on a level at which you can’t reward the staff that are working their backsides off or you can’t allow them to grow financially, that’s a mistake. So, we searched around and found this business which was shutting down, I think it used to be an old shoe shop or something, on Kensington High Street. After we started looking at the leasehold, I found out that the actual building was up for sale. The agent told us it was under offer, but I didn’t believe him, so I got the owner’s number, phoned them up and said I desperately wanted the building and I could complete in six weeks. We had a meeting and we sorted it out.

But getting the freehold was the most important part for us – we’d had enough of being held to ransom and having rent reviews every four or five years. The minute we worked out the bottom line of Kensington, it was far more beneficial to get the freehold. Now we’ve got the whole building with a penthouse flat at the top and offices, and we’ve never looked back to be honest. So, all those mistakes made us more determined to go for the freehold, which was what we really wanted to do all along.

IF YOU COULD START ALL OVER AGAIN, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY? From a business perspective, I wouldn’t do anything differently – I think we learned a lot of lessons from there. But on the creative side, I would probably travel less than I used to. It’s the one thing I look back on – I literally lived out of a suitcase for 30 years – and it was a mistake not to say no. It was tough on me, but also trying to juggle the family as well. I mean, it was amazing, and I’ve had some incredible opportunities, but I do remember getting to a point where I overdid it. In hindsight it was too much. Way too much.

WHAT CHARACTER TRAITS HAVE HARD TIMES TAUGHT YOU? It’s taught me to be resilient. It’s also taught me to make sure that whatever I’m doing, I have the time to prepare for it and get it right. I’ve learnt that anyone can do anything. When I look back now, I sometimes think, how did I get through that? But when you go through those experiences, it makes you a stronger person. It makes you realise that you can do those things you’ve always wanted to do.

HOW DO YOU THINK SOMEONE CREATES SUCCESS IN THEIR CAREER? FOR INSTANCE, WITH YOUR DAUGHTER – WHO IS DOING SO WELL, AND WHAT A LOVELY GIRL – WHAT ADVICE HAVE YOU GIVEN HER? Oh, Jordanna’s amazing. She’s an absolute credit, I’m so proud. But when she decided to go into the business, we had a big family meeting about it and I said to her, if you want to go into the business and eventually take over the salon, you’re going to have to be amazing at what you do. I said I was happy to take two years out to teach her everything one-to-one, which is far quicker than learning in

another way. She was lucky in that respect. You can teach somebody as much as you like, but they still need to have the right character, passion and dedication, and an eye for it as well. I spent two years doing that and then encouraged her to experience other education, like Sassoon and different barber and colour courses, which would then help her to create her own unique brand. One other thing I said to her is if you want to educate in this day and age, you need to be absolutely incredible at colour. You’ve got to be good at everything, but you’ve got to be amazing at colour to work with the big colour houses on a global level.

So she put her mind to that and has excelled.

EXACTLY. WHEN PEOPLE ASK HOW DO I MAKE IT, WHAT CAN I DO? I SAY: YOU’RE ENTITLED TO NOTHING. EARN EVERYTHING. GO ASK QUESTION AFTER QUESTION AND DON’T EXPECT IT TO COME TO YOU. You’ve got to have self-belief, but you have to make the right decisions. On a creative level, you cannot get enough knowledge. You have to constantly strive for more and more education. Don’t be thinking you can do it by yourself, because you can’t.

IS THERE ANY ELEMENT OF THE SUCCESS YOU’VE ENJOYED THAT’S DOWN TO BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME? I think there’s a bit of luck with everything that you do, but I think you also make your own luck to be honest. It’s about making the right decisions at the right time; it’s about hard work and having a proper business plan. You can be as creative as you like, but you also need to have people behind you. I think if you’re trying to run a business as the creative person and you lack those business skills, you need...

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...to have somebody in your business that fills that gap. Bring people in that underpin your weaknesses; you can’t be good at everything.

I KNOW LOTS OF HAIRDRESSERS ARE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP BECAUSE THAT’S AN ADMISSION OF FAILURE. WELL, YOU NEED TO GET OVER THAT EGO.

your business can’t grow, to be honest. I think it’s important when you run your business to make the staff feel a sense of belonging, and that they’re making those decisions with you. I think working for you is just not enough, you have to involve your staff.

They need a sense of belonging; they need to feel very much part of the business.

I’ve always asked for help wherever it’s needed. I’d say that’s one of the reasons Jordanna’s doing so well too, she will ask for help wherever. She’s like a sponge, she will take advice and bring it in wherever she can. That’s really key for any business to be honest.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL MOMENT RECENTLY? I THINK I COULD ANSWER THIS FOR YOU! WHEN MY LITTLE LAD WON HIS BHA IT OVERTOOK ANYTHING I’VE EVER DONE MYSELF BY 100 PER CENT. NOTHING BUT EMOTION – SO PROUD. Absolutely! I mean, when I saw Jordanna win London at the BHAs for the first time and then she won it again this year, I just thought wow, you know, history repeating itself. I won it twice in a row and now she’s done the same thing. I know how I felt when I went up for my award, but you feel even better than that. When you watch them do it, you know, it’s just amazing.

ARE YOU A PERSON WHO TAKES RISKS? Absolutely. There’s always a risk in everything you do. It just has to be the right risk and you have to have the confidence to go forth with it. Without risk,

I’ve met a lot of people along the way, but I’ve always admired Anthony Mascolo. I’ve known him for many, many years and he was always there giving advice (without even knowing he was giving it!). He was very open, and it was always like nothing was a big deal. I also truly admired Peter Belcher. He really helped me in my career when I worked within Schwarzkopf and outside, he was always there, giving me the affirmation that I was on the right path. He just believed in me.

I’M SO GLAD YOU MENTIONED PETER. I AGREE – ONE OF LIFE’S MOST GENUINE PEOPLE. DO YOU HAVE A PARTICULAR MINDSET THAT YOU THINK MAKES YOU SUCCESSFUL?

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU DOUBTED YOURSELF? HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE FEELINGS? I took a break from Cobella for a couple of years for personal reasons, and during that time Toni and Sacha at TONI&GUY asked me to work for the Essensuals group for two years. They basically said, “Here, have Essensuals – go and do something with it.” Now that was a real challenge for me – suddenly I’m in charge of 54 salons across the UK and trying to create a brand identity for them. It was way out of my comfort zone. To work for a company that has franchise groups is totally different. I thought to myself, you know, you can have self-doubt and impostor syndrome and all that sort of stuff, but I just knew I’d be able to do it because I was excited about it and because I knew the people around me would help me through that process – and I loved it!

It was an amazing learning curve to see the business side of things and learn how every franchisee is a customer of the business.

WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE?

I COULDN’T AGREE MORE. WHEN YOU INVOLVE YOUR TEAM, YOU GET SO MUCH MORE BACK. A sense of belonging is so important to any member of staff, it doesn’t matter if it’s a salon or any business. I think it’s important to include the junior members of staff as well. One thing that I learned was when people come into your business very young – they’re like 16 – you have to think of yourself as another parent. You have to sort of bring them up for about three or four years, and you have to allow them to make mistakes on the way because it’s part of their growing up process. You have to allow all your members of staff to make mistakes to be honest with you, but especially the juniors. Get them to a level where they start to realise that this is actually a career for them – they’re our future generation.

YEAH, ABSOLUTELY – JUNIORS ARE 100% THE FUTURE IF OUR INDUSTRY IS TO SURVIVE WITH ANY KIND OF RECOGNITION. Yes, you have to invest in training your staff. Don’t rely on your local college and educators that are affiliated with your NVQs to teach them, you have to teach them yourself. I’ve always been in education, it’s my main thing, and I learned something many years ago: knowledge is a gift and you have to share that gift with other people. You’ve got to stop putting the blinkers on and start educating the people around you. This is what keeps UK hairdressing the best in the world.

I think I’ve always been positive – there’s always a positive side of things. I’ve never been a negative person, and I don’t look at things as a hurdle to stop you doing something. I think that has helped me a lot. You have to understand that life is full of problems and learn how to deal with them. I don’t look at problems as anything else but knowledge. In fact, I don’t like the word ‘problem’. I don’t like the word ‘failure’. For me, there’s only one way to fail and that is by not trying.

WHAT THREE PIECES OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE AT THE START OF THEIR CAREER? 1. First of all, you’ve got to know what you want to do; you have to have a plan and you have to have self-belief in that plan. Finding your focus is the foundation of everything.

2. You’ve got to have the dedication and passion to see it through, no matter how bumpy the road is.

See it through, stay positive and do it with passion and dedication.

3. Most importantly, you have to enjoy the journey.

If you set goals that are unreachable, you’re not going to enjoy the journey because the goal is so far away. You have to enjoy the process.

YES, TOTALLY. I REMEMBER TONI MASCOLO SAYING TO ME, “DON’T BE IN TOO MUCH OF A RUSH TO GET THERE. IT’S NOT ABOUT THE DESTINATION, IT’S ABOUT THE JOURNEY.” EVERY SINGLE ONE OF US HAS DIFFERENT GOALS IN LIFE BUT YOU NEED TO HAVE YOUR OWN PLAN. BEVERLY, IT’S BEEN BRILLIANT TALKING TO YOU. THANK YOU SO MUCH, I’LL SPEAK TO YOU AGAIN SOON.

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EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE WiTH ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

Errol Douglas has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing.

With equality, diversity and inclusion high on the agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon? In his exclusive series, Errol interviews hair-industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

THIS MONTH, ERROL SITS DOWN WITH CHRIS FOSTER. WITH OVER 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN THE HAIR WORLD, CHRIS IS AN INDEPENDENT MEN’S GROOMING SPECIALIST WHOSE WORK HAS TAKEN HIM FROM A SMALL BARBERSHOP IN TOTTENHAM TO GLOBAL SESSION STYLING AND BECOMING THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT THE REFINERY AND GENTLEMEN’S TONIC IN MAYFAIR AND THE HARRODS BARBERSHOP IN KNIGHTSBRIDGE. CHRIS HAS WON MULTIPLE AWARDS, INCLUDING A MASTER CRAFTSMAN AWARD, WHICH HE RECEIVED AT THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. THESE DAYS, HE’S A CAREER DEVELOPMENT COACH AS ‘THE PROFILE GUY’, WORKING TO HELP SALONS AND INDIVIDUAL STYLISTS WITH THEIR MARKETING AND COMMUNICATION. Hi CHRiS, THANKS FOR CHATTiNG TO ME TODAY. WHEN iT COMES TO HAiR, WHAT DOES THE TERM iNCLUSiViTY MEAN TO YOU? Being inclusive is having the skills to do every type of hair, meaning nobody should feel excluded at all. I guess when you work outside of a metropolitan area, you may find that you have just one demographic of hair type, but where I’m located in the West End of London, being inclusive is part and parcel of what I do. In a single word, inclusivity is never ‘no’, it should always be ‘yes’. Whether you’ve got hair that’s ‘too curly’, ‘too straight’ or ‘too green’, it’s my job to create what you’ve asked for. Asking, ‘How can I serve you? How can I solve your problem?’ That’s inclusivity to me.

IS THERE ENOUGH OF A SPOTLiGHT ON THESE CONVERSATiONS iN THE HAiRDRESSiNG iNDUSTRY? I think it’s sometimes much easier to push that responsibility onto someone else rather than addressing it ourselves. We all gravitate to staying in our comfort zone, this means we often don’t push ourselves, which unfortunately kills self-development.

Personally, I’ve always been on a crusade to put myself in uncomfortable positions where I’m learning and growing. I think a lot of creators stick too much to what they’re used to, but I’ve learnt that unless you personally push yourself to try and change with the times, then unfortunately you get left behind.

WHO WERE YOUR ROLE MODELS WHEN ADVANCiNG THROUGH THE HAiR iNDUSTRY? WHO iS PROJECTiNG THE RiGHT KiND OF POSiTiVE MESSAGE ABOUT iNCLUSiViTY? It’s 100% you Errol! When I was in college in the 90s, I was always watching videos of you cutting hair. Being a black guy myself, looking at you made me think ‘okay, it is possible to do all types of hair’. At the time, I was in an area where I was doing predominately black, textured, Afro hair, but if I’d stayed in that comfort zone I’d still be there today – and I certainly wouldn’t have had the self-belief to

end up in Mayfair. That inspiration motivated me to put my career on ice, go to college and retrain for three years. In some ways, this definitely made me feel like a fish out of water; I remember walking into Selfridges thinking, ‘I don’t even know how I should be talking!’ The whole process was uncomfortable, but that’s the thing that drives me. These days, I’ve evolved into more of an all-round problem-solver within the industry; I don’t just do hair, I solve marketing problems and career issues. If people want to earn more or achieve more within their career, being totally inclusive is going to get you there, because it’s solving more problems.

HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATiON PLAY iN THE QUEST FOR iNCLUSiViTY? Education is so important. If a student wants to go to college, they should be able to learn about all types of hair as this opens up more job opportunities. I feel fortunate that I can say yes to any job that comes my way because I am able to do all types of hair. Not being limited in that way has been totally rewarding; I’ve been able to do some fantastic jobs without having to say no.

In a single word, inclusivity is never ‘no’, it should always be ‘yes’. Whether you’ve got hair that’s ‘too curly’, ‘too straight’ or ‘too green’, it’s my job to create what you’ve asked for. Asking, ‘How can I serve you? How can I solve your problem?’ That’s inclusivity to me.

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interview

AS A SESSiON STYLiST WHO iS PARTiCULARLY EXPOSED TO THAT WORLD, ARE THE TOPiCS ANY DiFFERENT iN FASHiON CiRCLES? DO YOU THiNK WE’RE AHEAD OR BEHiND THE CURVE WHEN iT COMES TO SPREADiNG iNCLUSiVE NARRATiVES? I think fashion goes through waves of what it considers to be inclusive, then the industry changes and switches back; there are always ebbs and flows of what’s ‘in’ and what’s ‘out’.

Ultimately, I believe fashion is changing because the conversation is changing. Fashion is waking up and moving forward, but there are still preconceptions of ‘you do this, and they do that’. I don’t want to bash an industry that is so good to me, but even today I’m still seen as the black guy that does black hair. I realise that a lot of the bias is unconscious, but there are all these unconscious things we need to get over on all sides of the spectrum. It’s something that affects all of us, from any background – we all have to work through it.

I don’t want to bash an industry that is so good to me, but even today I’m still seen as the black guy that does black hair.

WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAiR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT iT’S AN OUTDATED TERM? Nothing is normal! I believe the term doesn’t even exist anymore, whether that’s hair, personality traits or behaviour – the label is irrelevant.

WHAT DO YOU THiNK SALONS CAN DO TO OFFER A TRULY DiVERSE AND iNCLUSiVE SERViCE? DOES THE RESPONSiBiLiTY LiE WiTH SALON OWNERS? I actually think the burden rests with the stylist, not with the salon owner. It’s down to the stylist to think, ‘I’m going to push myself into uncomfortable positions and expand my own knowledge’. It’s so much easier to leave it to the salon and say it’s their responsibility, but if the stylist wants to grow and progress, it’s on them.

If you want to do something, do it – don’t wait for permission. I’m an independent stylist though, so I always think that way – that’s my bag!

ARE PRODUCT COMPANiES DOiNG ENOUGH iN THE ADVANCEMENT OF iNCLUSiViTY? I don’t think so, no. There are some companies making leaps and bounds, but the majority of them aren’t doing enough. I get it, it’s down to money, but marketing should always be inclusive. I mean, we are on a planet that has all these different people, and everyone deserves to be equally catered for. Will it change automatically? No, but I hope that product companies will eventually find a way of communicating to everyone.

WHAT’S THE BEST TECHNiCAL TiP YOU COULD GiVE ANYONE REGARDiNG TYPE 4 HAiR? For me, it’s totally about mastering shrinkage. Never underestimate the shrinkage – it’s a powerful thing! Wet Afro hair will take on a completely different format when it’s dry, understanding that has helped me become a better hairdresser.

WHAT iS THE ONE THiNG EVERY HAiRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAiR? Embrace it! Take advantage of the fact that there’s education out there and push yourself towards it.

Remember, the onus is on you as the stylist to push yourself, not your salon. I’ve had the best opportunities in my work purely because I do every type of hair, and that means never having to say no.

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ENTRIES

Accessible • Affordable • Sustainable

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NOW

AWARDS CLICK HERE TO ENTER – www.professionalhairdresser/awards

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We invite you to enter the inaugural Pro Hair Awards 2024. This is your opportunity to be recognised for your hairdressing skills, creativity and business acumen with an easy entry process that is accessible, affordable and sustainable.

Enter NOW in three simple steps: TELL US WHY YOU SHOULD BE THE WINNER OF YOUR CHOSEN CATEGORY. PROVIDE THE FIVE STRONGEST IMAGES OF YOUR WORK. These can include collection images, client photos and campaign shots. We do not expect a newly shot collection, we would like a recap of your recent work. This may include any images taken from January 2023 onwards.

SUBMIT A SINGLE VIDEO, no longer than two minutes, summarising the breadth of your work and success over the past year. This could include a montage of clips from – but not limited to – hair transformations, client endorsements and backstage footage.

THIS VIDEO OPPORTUNITY IS OPTIONAL.

Key Dates: Entries Open – 1st March 2024 Entries Close – 1st June 2024 Judging – July 2024 Live Awards Final – 16th September 2024

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THE CATEGORIES Professional Hairdresser of the Year Professional Colourist of the Year Professional Extensionist of the Year Professional Men’s Hair Stylist of the Year Professional Textured Hair Stylist of the Year Professional Bridal Stylist of the Year Professional Freelance Hairdresser of the Year Professional Young Talent of the Year

THE SOCIAL SIX

Professional Independent Salon of the Year Head Influencer of the Year

Professional Group Salon of the Year Social Educator of the Year

Professional Sustainable Salon of the Year Shot of the Year

Professional Home Salon of the Year Colour Transformation Video of the Year Client Consultation Video of the Year Salon Skit of the Year

CLICK HERE TO ENTER – www.professionalhairdresser/awards

Keep an eye on all of our socials to find out more! @prohairmag

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HAIR: SUZIE MCGILL

TALKING TRENDS WITH SUZIE MCGILL

memo

For spring 2024, I believe we will see a move from subtle, pastel hues, to rich, deep and more opulent shades. Instead of soft coppers and lemon yellows, we will see vivid cherry reds and liquid golds rise in popularity – colours that look expensive and give the hair an extreme lustre.

These shades were seen all over the spring/summer runways and are perfect for clients who want a creative, high-fashion look.

Controversial Colour Emma Fowler “Blonde Transformations are much better in one sitting…”

‘When many colourists (including me) were trained to transform a client to blonde, we were encouraged to do multiple sets of full-heads of highlights. Back then, our techniques were far more limited and we didn’t have the products that we have today. What I’ve now come to realise, however, is that it’s often actually better to create a blonde transformation in as few bleaching sessions as possible. Not only can this be better for the hair health in the long run, but it’s also actually more cost effective too; taking a client to blonde in one day is usually cheaper than having them split the cost across four full-head sessions.’

Goldwell Launches Color Loyalty Program for 2024 Goldwell has announced a new, reinvigorated Color Atelier program for 2024. With an aim of strengthening the brand’s partnerships with its salons, the Goldwell Color Atelier Loyalty Program is exclusively available for salons investing over a certain amount a year in Goldwell products. Color Atelier salon partners can expect a host of commercial benefits, including a rich menu of Color Services to promote in salon, bi-annual trend reports and access to an exclusive education program for their team. www.rdr.link/HAR002

COLOURFULLY CONDITIONING Manic Panic UK has introduced a new line of colour depositing conditioners, the Love Color Conditioners. Consisting of eight intermixable shades designed to brighten and moisturise semi-permanent hair colour, formulations include a variety of beneficial, vegan and cruelty-free ingredients to protect colour from fading. www.rdr.link/HAR003

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TELL ME MORE, TELL ME MORE! There’s a new colour line in town! Discover the bigger and better IGORA VIBRANCE from Schwarzkopf Professional, the demipermanent colour line allowing hairdressers to do MORE for their clients. With an infinite colour palette, multiple service opportunities, flexible applications and ever-evolving techniques, IGORA VIBRANCE gives clients the freedom to experiment with vibrant colour, without the commitment. www.rdr.link/HAR004

LIVED-IN BLONDE Demonstrating how demipermanent colouration can boost salon business with high commercial appeal, Schwarzkopf Professional has introduced the Lived-In Blonde Colour Service.

Blending soft and delicate darker roots with lighter and brighter midlengths and ends, this service gives effortless dimension to the hair for a high-impact, low-maintenance colour result.

Beautifully highlighting the many forms blonde can take, Maria has pre-lightened a naturally dark brunette with BLONDME Premium Lightener and a balayage technique, before glossing with IGORA VIBRANCE to create the perfect “bronde”.

“I love using IGORA VIBRANCE! The colours, texture and the application process – it’s all incredibly fast and easy!”

MARIA ROBERTS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR, SPAIN

memo Get the Look with Farah Naz “For this dynamic colour transformation, I used Chroma ID to elevate my client’s blonde locks and incorporated trend-led colour blocking in a variety of pastel shades. With the colour lasting between 6-12 washes, this is the perfect non-committal look for a fun weekend or holiday!

ON PRE-LIGHTENED HAIR: Blue – 10g Chroma ID blue + 10g Chroma ID clear Yellow – 8g Chroma ID yellow + 2g Chroma ID orange + 10g Chroma ID clear Pink – 10g Chroma ID pink + 10g Chroma ID clear Develop for 30 minutes and rinse out only before styling.

Powered by

Ethical, Efficient Eye-Catching Colour Introducing the new Zero Damage Colour Masks from Chroma ID. Available in 14 intermixable, semi-permanent shades for full customisation, the FIBREBOND technology and conditioning formula offer maximum colour coverage whilst leaving the hair beautifully smooth and intensely conditioned. Free from animal-derived ingredients and PETA approved, all Chroma ID shades last up to 15 washes. www.rdr.link/HAR005

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FOR SS24, WE ARE GOING TO SEE MUCH MORE NATURAL STYLES, WITH CLIENTS EMBRACING THEIR NATURAL TEXTURES AND HAIR PATTERNS. HEALTHY HAIR IS HUGELY TRENDING RIGHT NOW, AND WE ARE EXPECTING THE MOVEMENT TO GROW EVEN FURTHER THROUGHOUT THE UK. WORKING TO THE PATTERN OF THE CLIENTS’ HAIR, STYLING PRODUCTS WILL PLAY A KEY PART IN ENHANCING THE NATURAL, HEALTHY LOOK. GILL BERRY, SENIOR CREATIVE ARTIST, JOICO EMEA

GET THE LOOK WITH SAM BURNETT ‘To begin this look, I started cutting a classic bowl haircut, considering the face shape and leaving disconnection behind the ears. I worked a square box layer through the top and sides and left a slight teardrop, layered fringe at the front. I then applied a light blow-dry spray and wrap-dried the hair using a Denman brush with medium heat, before finishing with flat irons and a spray of Davines Shimmering Mist for a polished shape to show off the layers.’

‘To achieve this cut, you need to create a onelength perimeter shape which is a bob. Using a lot of tension, pull your remaining section down to the perimeter line, creating a slight graduation once released and the natural curl is exposed. Next, section the hair from recession to recession in a shoehorn shape, before working a 50-50 layering technique through the underneath – this will encourage the curls and create a loose, disheveled finish. Repeat this throughout the top section of the hair. Finally, using a razor or open blade of the scissor, visually create some shape around the face.

For the styling of this look, we applied the Davines Love Curl Cream and diffused the natural curls, before using a small tong to define some areas around the face. I finished with cold air and fingers to create a voluminous, fluffy texture.’

memo Bardot Bangs and Butterfly Bobs As we enter a new season, Alice Dawkins, Hair Expert at Milk + Blush, analysed the top hairstyles set to trend over the coming months: Hairstyle Butterfly Bob Bardot Bangs Hair Ribbons Textured Pixie Wet Look Hair

Average Monthly Searches 720 880 2,400 390 1,900

Three-Month Change 515% 81% 53% 51% 50%

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THIS SPRING, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE VOLUME! BIG HAIR WAS A KEY TREND IN 2023 AND GOING INTO 2024 IT IS ONLY BECOMING MORE POPULAR – AS THE SAYING GOES ‘THE BIGGER THE BETTER!’ VOLUMINOUS HAIR LOOKS WERE ALL OVER THE SPRING/SUMMER RUNWAYS, AND THIS IS GOING TO TRICKLE DOWN INTO SALONS VERY SOON. SABRINA DIJKMAN, ALTERNA AMBASSADOR

Say Hello to Spring!

Tapping into nature’s beauty, Oribe Hair Care celebrates the arrival of spring with the launch of two new gift collections in lush floral packaging. Designed in collaboration with artist Spiros Halaris, the limited-edition sets borrow from the Victorian practice of Floriography – the language of flowers. The collections are available in the Gold Lust Ritual Set and Valley of Flowers Travel Set, both with floral fragrances working to inspire and awaken. www.rdr.link/HAR006

TREND ALERT: JAY BIRMINGHAM Bombshell Bouffants: Ah, the bombshell bouffant—a timeless hairstyle that just oozes glamour and sophistication! The look must be voluminous, usually with a teased crown and smoothed-back sides, and often paired with cascading waves or curls. Having rose to fame in the 1960s – championed by icons like Brigitte Bardot – the style has since made periodic comebacks in Hollywood blockbusters, red carpets and fashion spreads.

An Intellectual Electrical Introducing the latest beautytech innovation and most advanced styler by ghd, the ghd chronos. Featuring intelligent, motion-responsive technology, the tool optimises heat and power delivery for a superior performance and styling speed.

With ultra-gloss floating plates, a re-engineered wishbone hinge and smooth rounded barrel, the chronos offers easyglide, one stroke styling for ultimate professional creativity. www.rdr.link/HAR007

The Pammy Bun: The end of last year saw a huge increase in popularity for the 90s Pamela Anderson Updo.

With hair stacked onto the head and small strands coming out at the front, the look is messy and effortlessly sexy – a perfect style for glitzy nights out.

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Collinge & Co Wins Gold at the 2023 Veggie Awards

A COMMITMENT TO KINDNESS Underscoring the brand’s commitment to cruelty-free beauty, KMS has announced that its entire product range has successfully passed the PETA “Beauty Without Bunnies Program” certification process. The official PETA certificate verifies that KMS, alongside its manufacturers and suppliers, never conducts, commissions, pays for or allows any animal tests for cosmetic purposes on ingredients, formulations or finished products. As a result, the PETA certification will be displayed on all KMS products as the brand continues to evolve. www.rdr.link/HAR009

Collinge & Co has won five awards in the 2023 Veggie Awards, including the respected Gold Award for its Gentle Shampoo.

Shining a light on the crueltyfree and eco brands of tomorrow, the Veggie Awards strive to recognise the standout brands in the plantbased and ethical industry. With all Collinge & Co products being PETA approved, cruelty-free and made in the UK with the kindest vegan ingredients, the team were thrilled to pick up five awards in the Cruelty-free Haircare category. www.rdr.link/HAR008

memo

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO LOOK AT YOUR SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS AND SEE WHAT YOU CAN IMPROVE TO BE MORE ECO-CONSCIOUS. NO MATTER HOW SMALL, IT CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE! AT ROAR, WE HAVE UNBLEACHABLE AND BIODEGRADABLE TEA BAGS, NO PLASTIC LIDS AND OUR COFFEE STIRRERS ARE RECYCLABLE. OUR BACKWASHES ARE FITTED WITH ECO

SCOOPING SUSTAINABLY Reduce your salon’s environmental footprint with the new IGORA VARIO BLOND from Schwarzkopf Professional. Combining the same trusted formula with new sustainable packaging, the lighteners’ single use measuring scoop has been replaced with a reusable measuring scoop made from 100% recycled material. The high-performing lightener uses Intergrated FIBREBOND Technology to offer up to eight levels of lift with minimised hair breakage. www.rdr.link/HAR010

HEADS AND WE USE EASYDRY TOWELS THAT ARE PLASTICFREE AND 100% COMPOSTABLE OR BIODEGRADABLE. BY DOING ALL OF THIS, CLIENTS APPRECIATE OUR EFFORTS IN BEING MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY – WE ARE NOT ONLY ATTRACTING A NEW CLIENTELE TO OUR SALON, BUT ALSO DOING OUR PART TO HELP MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE TOO! BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM, ROAR HAIR & BEAUTY

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TALKING TRENDS RYAN LEWIS

Ryan Lewis, Owner of Club13 in Hull and STMNT Ambassador, offers some expert insight into this year’s biggest barbering trends…

READY TO ROCK? “After last year’s popular revival of 90s trends in both hairstyles and fashion, I think a shift is on the horizon for 2024. The fashion scene is gradually embracing a more 00s aesthetic, particularly with iconic brands like Ed Hardy and Von Dutch making a comeback — which I love! Of course, this trend isn’t limited to clothing, with the hair industry also set for a transformation. While mullets have been prominent recently, there’s a noticeable shift towards softer and morebalanced versions of the iconic style, leaning into the longer rock looks reminiscent of the 00s – think Luke Pritchard during the release of Inside In/Inside Out.”

BLEND IT LIKE BECKHAM “For those seeking a shorter, low-maintenance style with a touch of character beyond the conventional skin fade, I think a masculine pixie cut is poised to gain popularity. This cut retains a soft square shape that complements masculine face structures. It echoes the short crops commonly found in barbershops, but instead opts for a jagged, dishevelled style with a less uniform fringe. Imagine blending David Beckham’s boyish style from 2002 with Paul Mescal’s current messy fringe, and you’ll be on the right track.”

CONQUER THE CLASSICS “Classic styles are also making a robust return in barbershops, with timeless side parts, pompadours and slick-backs never going out of style. Similar to their resurgence about a decade ago, possibly influenced by the widespread popularity of shows like Suits, these styles are undeniably making a comeback in 2024. This resurgence is likely fuelled by the growing acceptance of longer hairstyles among both barbers and clients.”

POWERED BY

memo Clippers and Conversation: A Chat with Charles Rose We check in with Charles Rose, Director of Crate Cheshire and STMNT Ambassador, to learn the latest in UK Barbering.

What are your top three go-to products?

STMNT Hair & Body Cleansing Bar: I love using this at the backwash, especially if the client struggles with a dry scalp. I rub the bar around the scalp straight after the first shampoo, which really helps to emulsify the Cleanser. This is a great product for clients to use at home too, as its great for all skin types.

STMNT Conditioner: After the Cleansing Bar treatment, I like to massage this Conditioner into the mid-length and ends of the hair, letting it soak for a couple of minutes before washing out. I find this product also works great when using a hot towel at the basin or whilst sat in the bath – this allows the ingredients to really penetrate the hair.

STMNT Beard Oil: I love using this oil after either washing or styling a beard as it leaves the hair feeling moisturised and smelling fantastic. I recommend applying the product either after a hot towel treatment – as this opens the cuticles up – or as an everyday moisturiser.

Are high-quality products important to your work?

Yes yes yes! High-quality products enhance the hair massively, making it a lot easier to work with. The better condition the hair is in, the better it will grow out and the better the shape of the cut will last. High-quality products make my life so much easier!

How do certain products affect the client experience?

Choosing the right products to use can hugely elevate the atmosphere of your salon; it can make or break the whole experience for your clients. Take our STMNT products for example, clients leave our salon with hair that feels (and smells!) incredible thanks to the products we choose – this is what will get them back through our doors again.

What’s an underrated tip you would offer to other barbers?

Don’t look past the backwash experience! Not only is it such a lovely part of the client experience, but it makes a huge difference to the final result too – clean, properly dried hair makes all the difference to the way you cut it.

What will your salon be focusing on this spring?

Product retail and upselling. I don’t believe in selling products to clients – instead, explain which products you are using and why, and the products will sell themselves. I’ve found that my clients love to learn about product and treatment options; it makes them realise how important professional haircare is. www.rdr.link/HAR011

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KEEP IT SIMPLE! With simplicity, intuitiveness and ease of use in mind, introducing the launch of Salon Manager. The cloud-based architecture ensures simple accessibility and a straightforward setup process, resulting in a seamless experience for all types of salons.

Packed with a wealth of features, including Appointment Management, Online Bookings, Streamlined Transactions and Sales Reporting, Salon Manager is dedicated to adapting to the industry’s everevolving business landscape. www.rdr.link/HAR012

SOCIAL MEDIA: HELP OR HINDER CASPAR FINCH

memo Spring Clean Your Business I Liz McKeon All salons need an annual deep clean to improve company performance and service to clients. I recommend using the springtime to spruce up all your business strategies and get ready to capitalise on a fantastic summer season: ● Clean up your finances:

The first thing to tidy is your finances, making sure that you are managing your cashflow on a daily and weekly basis. Organise your books, review files and accounts, sort your receipts and digitise what you can – this will help you to better forecast your financial future. ● Keep your tax affairs in order:

Lodging paperwork on time is an unavoidable chore. If your business cannot meet its tax obligations, get in touch with Revenue and consider going on a payment plan. ● Clean up your website:

This doesn’t have to mean a complete overhaul, sometimes just a simple update is all that’s needed: Review your key words and ensure all pages are functioning. Get rid of any stale material, and consider adding a blog, reviews, videos, case studies, shopping cart and maps. ● Update your social media profiles:

A sloppy online presence is never a good look,

especially for a salon business. Google yourself – ensure you have good photos, clear content, accessible contact information and excellent ‘calls to action’. ● Clean up your database:

Your salon database is one of your company’s most important assets. Use it to your full advantage: record every single client’s details, keep it up to date and use it to stay in regular touch with all of your customers. ● Get closer to your clients:

Review your business through your clients’ eyes, prioritise issues for improvement and gain competitive advantage by giving clients what they really want. Do this by running a ‘client survey’ to highlight areas for improvement. ● Organise your inbox:

It is easy to become disorganised when emails and other documents quickly pile up. Go through your digital files and delete unnecessary documents and folders. This will reduce space on your computer and make it more efficient. ● Declutter:

A clean, clear work area is a key element of productivity. Whether you work from home or an office, take everything off your desk, wipe away the grime, clean your computer screen and get rid of all the obsolete paperwork.

Coming into 2024, it seems hairdressing has split into two groups: those who can market themselves and control their narrative on social media, and those who can’t.

Recorded consultations, hair transformation clips and comedy skits have become mainstream ways to grow your reach – but is there a catch?

I meet so many stylists that want to progress in their careers, but don’t want to constantly broadcast their faces over social media. Whilst it can be hard to juggle multiple different roles and adapt to an evolving industry, I don’t believe these two career options should be mutually exclusive. Someone once said to me, “I let my work speak for itself, why do I need to show off my own face”, and I replied, “well, why not do both?”

I love online platforms, particularly as a tool for education, but I still believe that a clear balance is needed between your digital persona and real-life self. A current threat to our industry is young hairdressers focusing on creating content more than improving and developing their core skills. Endless followers are brilliant, but being able to translate this influence into bettering your real-life salon space is even better.

Understanding how to embrace all roles, whether they are online or on the salon floor, is a crucial way of futureproofing your place in the industry. My goal is to inspire hairdressers of all ages and experience levels into thinking beyond the chair – there is a roadmap of different career options out there for stylists, and everyone should feel empowered and eligible to explore them.

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business

A GOOD HEAD

BUSINESS

for

TOP TIPS ON INCREASING YOUR SALON PROFITS

Continuing her new, exclusive series, Natasha Grossman, General Manager for HOB Salons, shares her practical business expertise with you.

The recipe for a successful, profit-making salon has changed quite significantly over the last decade. At HOB Salons, for example, we have had to adapt our strategy in multiple ways to ensure a long-lasting and sustainable business. With this in mind, I wanted to share my three top tips we have focused on to turn turnover into profit.

1

PRODUCTIVITY Our focus on productivity has been game-changing for our business. We aim for each team member to perform 100% productively, and we evaluate the number of staff against client demand to ensure our schedules reflect this. Making sure you have enough team members in on the right days is critical, and maximising columns with services that produce high profit is key.

We focus on turning every client into a colour client, because colour is ultimately what brings the highest profit. We do this by implementing a strong marketing strategy to generate ‘bums on seats’, whether it’s promoting the earlier part of the week with a colour offer or filling the spaces with our on-the-day blow-dry service. Once we have the clients in the salon, we then build a relationship with them to offer a personalised experience that goes beyond just one service.

Sometimes the client will upgrade their service on the day, and other times we’ve planted the seed for their next appointment. Either way, ensuring a good flow of clients will keep each stylist’s column busy, contributing to increased turnover and overall profitability.

2

ADD-ON SERVICES Yes, ‘turnover is vanity and profit is sanity’, but you need the turnover first in order for the profits to increase. We have focused on boosting turnover by introducing packaged services that include personalised colour treatments, hair treatments and homecare products at great value for money. Where possible, we are trying to offer beauty treatments and are looking to enhance our salon spaces to enable us to offer a diverse range of services. Rather than clients having to visit their beautician, their aesthetics doctor and their hairdresser separately, particularly when most people are time poor, we want to offer hair and beauty all under one roof – this attracts a broader clientele. Plus, it’s proven that the more time a client spends in your salon, the more money they spend as well!

3

STOCK PURCHASES Efficiently managing your stock can make a huge difference to your bottom line. Regularly assessing inventory levels and getting rid of deadstock is a great start. Find out what your bestsellers are and make sure you have enough of them in stock at all times. Consider when you’re purchasing your stock in line with your cash flow and plan for seasonal times of the year such as Black Friday and Christmas, when you know you need to have more stock to cater for higher demand. Most importantly, aim to maintain a stock-to-gross-turnover ratio of no more than 10% and watch your profits rocket!

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NEED-to-KNOW

TRICHO LOOKING AFTER TEENAGE HAIR

This month, Nioxin Ambassador and globally recognised trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), shares his key insights into helping your teenage clientele live their best hairy lives.

Never will a bad hair day be as bad as it is in the teenage years. The overwhelming emotion of having bad hair ranks highly in the trauma stakes, so satisfying the teenage population is not just about what’s trending on social media, but it’s about improving hair health too. The teenage years can be tough for many reasons, and understanding some of the red flags that can impact on hair health is the first step to ensuring your teenage clients have the best hair they possibly can.

■ Diet I always say that we can only grow great hair if we are feeding our bodies with the right nutrients. This is especially the case for teenagers, given that they often have a bad diet when they’re not at home; university, college, going out a lot and partying hard can take its toll on a healthy diet. It sounds obvious, but diet is the first step to growing great hair.

■ Tattoos There’s nothing quite like a tattoo to truly make a statement, so it’s no surprise that the late teenage years are when many head straight to the tattoo parlour.

However, did you know that reactions to ink allergies can trigger hair loss as the body fights infection?

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, specifically red ink is often the culprit, but in reality, any colour may cause a reaction. It’s worth being aware of the connection as a potential cause of hair loss.

■ Sleep (or lack of it) Looking at phones and tablets before going to bed is a big no-no. Blue light from devices fools the brain into thinking it’s daytime. When we go to bed, our body starts winding down as it gets dark, and a sleep hormone is released called Melatonin. Teenagers are more sensitive to the effects of blue light than adults, so their quality of sleep is reduced. Night-time is when the body repairs its cells, so this can have a massive impact on the hair. It might not seem like sleep depravation is a major culprit for growing quality hair, but it is.

■ Severe styling The fashion for slicked-back hair can take a heavy toll on the hair and cause traction alopecia, leading to long-term damage to the hair follicle. Looser styles will reduce the strain and most definitely help scalp health.

■ Stress Mental health plays a big part with teenagers losing their hair. Stress causes a condition known as telogen effluvium, which can last until the causative factors are taken away. Never underestimate the toll that stress takes on the hair.

■ Eating disorders Females (occasionally males) between the ages of 13-19, and women in their twenties, are most likely to be affected by Anorexia. With such little food being eaten, the hair follicle is deprived of the energy it needs to grow healthy hair and hair shedding becomes commonplace. It takes around 160 calories to grow 1 gram of hair.

■ Male hereditary hair loss Males mature at around the age of 19, which is also the time that hair loss can start in young men – particularly if they are predisposed to hereditary hair loss. Every young male needs to start a hair loss prevention routine at this age. I highly recommend Nioxin’s three step systems, as prevention is always better than waiting until the hair starts to recede and fall out.

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business

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE SCREEN

THE IMPORTANCE OF GENERATIONAL DIFFERENCE IN THE DIGITAL WORLD In the midst of this current Social Media minefield, Founder of Content Kweens and Hairdressing Social Media Consultant, Ben Lifton, is a seasoned business coach with a passion for digital marketing and content creation. In this new, exclusive series, Ben’s mission is to equip hair pros with the tools, support and knowledge necessary to market oneself professionally online.

From Gen X and Millennials to the digital-savvy Gen Z, a new generation is quietly making its digital debut: Generation Alpha (those born from the early 2010s onwards.) These digital natives are set to inherit a world more technologically shaped than ever before, and they are navigating the internet in their own unique way.

Unlike their Gen Z predecessors, Gen Alpha is demonstrating a distinctive approach to online life that sets them apart. With brand marketing and online sales in mind, it’s essential to recognise the significance of each generation’s digital behaviour.

GEN ALPHA’S UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE: Gen Alpha, however, is set to engage with the internet in a more private and selective manner. Their online presence will be tinged with a sense of necessity and, at times, resentment. The disruptions and sacrifices caused by online schooling and socialising during the Covid-19 pandemic have coloured their perception of the digital world.

What truly sets Gen Alpha apart is their deep inclination towards privacy. I predict that this generation will gravitate towards anonymous avatars when navigating the online universe, purposefully concealing their digital footprints. This aligns with the rise of platforms like Roblox and the VTuber trend, where individuals interact through avatars rather than their real identities.

“The message for hair and beauty business owners is clear: embrace your generational traits and nuances.”

THE INTERNET JOURNEY THROUGH GENERATIONS: For Gen X and Baby Boomers, the internet is a tool for connecting with their hyper-local communities, often finding comfort on platforms like Facebook event pages.

Millennials, on the other hand, grew up during the rise of the internet, striving for a curated online perfection that countered the media’s idealised narratives. Filters became their companions, offering a veneer of complete perfection.

Gen Z took a different path, embracing irony and relatability. Having grown up in a digital world, they adopted a more playful and carefree approach to the online realm.

CELEBRATING GENERATIONAL NUANCES: With all of this in mind, the message for hair and beauty business owners is clear: embrace your generational traits and nuances. By acknowledging and leveraging the different generational identities, salon owners, independent artists, brands and educators can effectively communicate within their own peer groups. At the end of the day, if you try to talk to everyone, you risk talking to no one…

Stop feeling obliged to hop onto trends and instead look inwards to what makes your community connect with YOU and YOUR brand. The magic lies in you as the business owner, not a trend on TikTok.

https://www.contentkweens.com/

@contentkweens

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Freelance forum...

Meet our new trio of independent experts. Each month, they will be here to talk to all of you in the freelance sector of our industry – making these pages of Pro Hair a one-stop shop to help you run a successful self-employed business.

MEET

MEET

MEET

Sheila Abrahams MBE

Ruth Lundstrom

Lacey Hunter-Felton

Former salon owner turned freelance/mobile hairdresser, Sheila Abrahams MBE is the founder and face of the Freelance Hairdressers Association.

Sheila set up the FHA 30 years ago having become increasingly frustrated with the negative attitude shown towards independent and self-employed hairdressers at that time.

With nearly 20 years’ experience in the hair and beauty industry, Ruth Lundstrom is the CEO and Founder of market-leading mobile app, The Freelance Suite.

Lacey Hunter-Felton is a dynamic force, and (as the name might suggest) the brains behind Hunter Collective, a pioneering co-working space for hair and beauty professionals in the UK. In 2017, Lacey combined her 24 years of hairdressing experience with her savvy business outlook. In doing so, she found this distinct gap in the market and created her freelance community brand: Hunter Collective.

She has since been a tireless advocate for freelancers, striving to set better standards and put support systems in place for the freelance sector of the industry – ultimately building a community where members who work on their own, don’t feel alone. Thanks to Sheila, members have access to new education and business training, leading industry brands, professional development and fair working conditions. Her efforts have not only elevated the status of freelance hairdressers, bridging the gap between industry brands wanting to target them, but they have also inspired a new generation of professionals to pursue their passion in a freelance capacity.

Ruth, who started out as an apprentice hairdresser, had previously been both salon and area manager at some of the North West’s leading hair franchises, before becoming a freelance hairdresser 10 years ago. This gave her the opportunity to further enhance her business skills, allowing her to identify a key issue surrounding pricing.

During the Covid 19 lockdown in 2020, Ruth decided to host weekly Instagram Live sessions on subjects such as pricing, business and mindset before creating her first e-book, The Ultimate Guide to Freelancing: In the Hair & Beauty Industry.

It was at this point that Ruth identified the opportunity to develop an app to help solve the issues around pricing and other business complications that hairdressers around the world face on a daily basis.

Nearly seven years on from opening her first co-working site, Lacey has strategically grown her spaces in London – with further-afield openings on the horizon too. She is an influential powerhouse in the co-working sector of hairdressing. Above all, she is an approachable mentor that loves to empower and nurture others – a veritable freelance guru.

Throughout 2024, as part of a series of features and advice columns in every issue, Lacey will openly share her insights and top tips for freelancers and co-working space providers.

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Meet the doyenne of the freelance hairdressing industry...

Hi, I’m Sheila Abrahams. I’m the founder of the FHA and have been recently awarded an MBE for services to the hairdressing freelance sector. Thirty years ago, when the Freelance Hairdressing Association launched, I never would have believed that such a thing could happen.

My career started at the age of 13, when I was a Saturday girl in a local salon. Even then I loved every aspect of the job, which as a Saturday girl was very limited! I did my training at the London College of Fashion and after two years I achieved my City & Guilds. My first job was in a salon in North London. Initially I wasn’t allowed ‘on the shop floor’, but about six months later I was allowed to start a column. I was on my way! I worked there for several years and then left to open my own salon.

I had my own salon for eight years, but by then my life had moved on – I had a toddler and a baby and needed time for them. However, I still loved hairdressing and I was afraid that I may lose my nerve to ever come back if I stopped working completely, so I

“Whilst being a salon owner, I had many salesmen calling on me from various colour houses and wholesalers, but I was suddenly ostracised by going freelance; the salesmen no longer called and many wholesalers refused to serve me.” as having PL Insurance. As a member of the FHA, you are automatically provided with a bespoke insurance policy with a practical skin testing protocol for those on the move.

Being self-employed, our members work in all sorts of situations – home salons, salon spaces, care homes, mobile – and we look after them all.

Training is something that is a high

priority for our members. We work with top icons in our industry who run exclusive training days and courses at membership prices. We also hold annual events that merge education and friendship. We understand the needs of the freelance hairdressers and have become the ‘one-stop shop’ to turn to for help and support.

Pricing issues are always a hot topic, for example, as well as understanding tax and offering each other support.

When we launched, we were warmly welcomed by freelancers from all over the UK and gradually won the support of the major colour houses. Even today, we still hold great relationships with these colour houses, as we have the audience that they want to reach – plus our members have built a fantastic reputation for wanting to keep their product knowledge up to date. The members of the FHA have become like family, we have created a wonderful, warm community where working on your own no longer means you have to be on your own.

Since the beginning, it was my wish to make sure the freelance hairdressers were able to access all they needed to ensure their businesses were successful and their skills were always at the cutting edge.

We have an incredible community that I am so proud to be a voice for.

Freelancing is an integral part of our industry – in fact, many hairdressers will freelance at some time in their lives as it works so well in the work-life balance that we all want today. Knowing that we can move from salon to freelance and vice versa is a good omen for the future of our industry.

freelance forum

The Strength of Self-Belief

started working self-employed.

Unfortunately, I discovered that there was no place for me as a self-employed worker in our industry; people had a very different attitude to mobile hairdressers 30 years ago!

Whilst being a salon owner, I had many salesmen calling on me from various colour houses and wholesalers, but I was suddenly ostracised by going freelance; the salesmen no longer called and many wholesalers refused to serve me. This is when I discovered that ‘mobile’ hairdressers seemed to be hated by salons and the industry in general. We had a reputation as being unqualified, unprofessional, uninsured and didn’t pay tax – basically unregulated and unwanted.

Having already been a salon owner and becoming freelance at a time when freelancing was frowned upon by the industry, I decided there should be a voice for the professional self-employed hairdresser – and with that the Freelance Hairdressers Association was created. I founded the FHA in October 1993, and with its launch a standard was set for the freelance sector of the industry. To join, members simply have to prove their qualifications and experience, as well

■ Over the coming months, I will be providing valuable insights and guidance to empower each one of you in the freelance hairdressing industry. Whether you are a seasoned professional or contemplating the leap into freelancing, I will be sharing essential information on what you need to know about navigating this dynamic industry. From best practices to the practicalities of setting up as a freelancer, my aim is to equip you with the knowledge and tools necessary for success.

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Pricing for Profit RUTH LUNDSTROM discusses the key issues around pricing.

As a freelance hairstylist, setting your pricing can be a daunting task.

We usually start out assuming that our local competitors are correctly charging ‘the going rate’, so we position ourselves somewhere around their prices.

There is, however, a huge problem with this approach - what if everyone priced themselves using the same method? That would mean no one has actually priced themselves based on anything other than a figure plucked from thin air.

Why is that a problem though?

Well, the foundations of pricing are a mathematical formula. At a very basic level, your prices must cover certain costs that your business is going to incur on a daily, weekly, monthly and yearly basis. If you wish to make a

sustainable career or business in this industry, then it’s vital to understand not only the costs of running your business, but also your own value as a stylist.

First, let’s talk about the costs of running your business. It’s important to factor in not just the cost of your materials (colour, foil, toner, developer, shampoo, etc.), but also other expenses such as travel, chair/studio rent, education subscriptions, phone bills, marketing, and accountant fees.

You’ll also want to consider the amount of time it takes you to complete a service, as well as any time spent on client consultations. As foreign as that may sound to you, factoring in time for consultations is not only necessary but key for you to stay in profit. Whatever time you spend in the salon needs to be paid for. Time really is money in the salon; every minute counts.

Once you have a thorough understanding of your costs, it’s important to consider your VALUE as a stylist. This may go beyond just technical skills and can include things like your experience, education or the convenience of having services done in a client’s home. Perhaps you offer 1-2-1 private appointments – these used to be a luxury of the rich and famous, however post-pandemic it’s almost become standard. It is, however, not standard! Private 1-2-1 appointments ARE an exclusive experience. These things add immense value and should be reflected in your rates.

“Profit is the financial cushion of your business. It’s there to catch you when you need it.

And if you don’t need it, then it’s there to buy the margaritas on the Christmas night out!”

So, how do you set your rates?

The best way to calculate a base rate is to factor in what your hourly operational costs are, and then add the product cost and percentage profit on top. For example, if your salon running costs are £25ph and your wage is £25ph, a 2-hour colour service with a product cost of £30 would be priced at £130 + your profit margin. Example £130 + 20% profit = £156.

This should be the bare minimum you charge.

From here, you can think about charging more if this particular service is something you are a specialist in, so people aren’t just paying for the cost to deliver, but they’re paying for your experience, skills and expertise.

Why do I need to add a profit to my rates though? Isn’t that unfair to clients?

Absolutely not. Here is why you need to factor in a profit: sick pay, holiday pay, new tools, repairs to the studio/salon, unexpected bills that crop up and education/upskilling – just to name a few!

Profit is the financial cushion that will keep you open and sustain your business should you hit a quiet period or – as we know all too well – we are forced to close due to a pandemic. It’s there to catch you when you need it. And if you don’t need it, then it’s there to buy the margaritas on the Christmas night out!

It’s also worth taking the psychology of pricing into consideration. Prices communicate a lot before your client even contacts you. They place a certain expectation on a product or service.

What do you expect from a £50 handbag versus a £5000 handbag?

It’s important that you regularly evaluate and adjust your rates as needed; your prices should alter as your skills and experience grow, not just when the price of a tube of colour increases. It’s important to regularly evaluate and adjust your rates as needed to stay profitable and to build a sustainable career and business.

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freelance forum

Now, what do I want to talk to you about for this landmark freelance issue? Well, it has to be my tips for taking the plunge and going freelance, so here goes:

Funnel the fear The fear of going freelance is one of the biggest barriers I see, but this is really just a mental barrier. If you can shift and consciously make the decision to funnel that fear into a positive energy, you can direct it into real motivation for success. Freeing headspace through changing your approach to fear is my number one top tip. Fear can be time-stealing and all-consuming, so take the time to address it, reframe it and take control of your decision and future business.

Channelling Change LACEY HUNTER-FELTON on reframing the fear and other tips for going freelance.

Finding your tribe Building a network of clients and people around you is integral to growing your business before you have even launched it. This is your testing ground to decide if there is an engaged market to go freelance before taking the plunge. If you don’t feel you have a strong network in place, take the time to build one ahead of going solo.

Building a buffer The way I view this is slightly different to others – I don’t think about having a buffer behind me, but I like to look forward with a pipeline of income ahead (3-6 months). It isn’t simply about having a pot of savings to rely on, it’s about mapping out and considering: Do I have that reliable client base that will rebook? Do I have sources of new income mapped out for the next 3-5 months? Rather than waiting and saving, which is of course still valid too, my outlook is all about future planning and growth.

Making a plan This is a very important step in your business development as a freelancer. It doesn’t have to be a 5-year plan, or even a 12-month plan, but any plan! Even a 6-month plan needs to be really considered and detailed, with strong foundations that allow you to be agile and pivot.

Ask questions like: what kind of

“I’m a firm believer that if you are doing something you are passionate about, then your community will come to you; it’s less about building your own community and more about finding them.” business do I want to create? What are the benefits of creating that business? Do I have enough indicators of success that I’m ready to launch? Adaptability and freedom to grow can only come from strong foundations.

Finding your community I’m a firm believer that if you are doing something you are passionate about, then your community will come to you; it’s less about building your own community and more about finding them. There are so many amazing freelance communities that exist to join, with doors wide open and ready to welcome you. I founded Hunter Collective on a principle of collaboration and connecting.

‘Collaboration over competition’ is everything we stand for. Connecting with those that are aligned with your values is a safe place to start.

Asking for help When you are a small business owner or an independent stylist, you will instinctively know who your trusted resources are and who to ask for help from. As hairdressers, I think we have such a strong intrinsic feel for people, so trust your gut. Keep those you trust close, keep them involved in the conversation, in your ideas and in your journey. You never know where that conversation might go, so be ready to share openly.

Ultimately that level of trust will deepen those connections in your inner circle and bring great rewards in the process.

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Freelance edit...

Common Pitfalls that Could Invalidate Your Insurance as a Freelance Hairdresser I love the flexibility of being freelance – I choose my days and hours, and I can take holidays when best suits my lifestyle. Becoming a mum forced me to consider my 5-10 year plan, and I knew going freelance would allow me to work around childcare or schooling.

For anyone making the change to freelance, be prepared to work long hours while you become established. Invest in training courses and use social media to gain new clients in your local area; don’t be afraid to promote yourself.

Asya Cannur Remi Cachet Super Stylist

Dan Dawson, Ripe Hair & Beauty Insurance There are thousands of freelance hairdressers in the UK taking advantage of the flexibility that self-employment provides, but whether you’re just starting your first side-hustle or a long-established pro, the job does come with risk. The range of accidental potential issues facing freelancers is vast, including bodily injury to clients, equipment theft and property damage.

In most circumstances, making a claim against your insurance for any of these issues is very straightforward. However, freelance hair stylists can (and do) make mistakes that can seriously reduce the likelihood of a claim being paid, undoing the good work of setting up insurance in the first place.

Below are some common, lesser-known pitfalls when it comes to making an insurance claim: 1. You Didn’t Report the Issue Quickly Enough: As we all know, life as a freelancer is hectic. For that reason, when something does go wrong, it may be tempting to put the problem to the back of your mind and deal with the insurance claim at a later date. However, most insurers will require you to let them know what has happened as soon as reasonably

possible (usually within a few days) and, where relevant, report incidents to the police within a specified timescale.

Not doing so could jeopardise the success of your claim.

2. You Didn’t do a Patch Test: Cover for accidental bodily injury will typically be included in your policy.

However, in order for it to be valid, most insurers will require you to have performed a sensitivity patch test on the client. This involves applying the exact substance from the service or treatment at least 24 hours before performing it for the first time. It may be tempting to let clients skip their patch test in the interest of time or convenience, but it’s vital to stress the consequences of an adverse reaction.

3. You Loaned Equipment to a Friend or Colleague We know that hair professionals offer a supportive network, so it may be second nature to let a friend or colleague borrow your equipment if theirs is out of action. It’s important to note, however, that many policies won’t cover equipment that’s stolen or damaged while on loan to another person unless you are also in attendance. Even if you have hired said equipment to somebody at a cost, it’s unlikely you’ll be fully protected should there be an issue.” www.rdr.link/HAR013

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freelance special

Being a freelancer is about embracing freedom and creativity; it’s about taking charge of your own path. To succeed, stay on top of trends, perfect your skills and never stop learning. As you step into the world of freelance hairdressing, let your passion and skills speak for themselves. To establish a strong presence in the industry, I recommend focusing on social media and strategic PR investments. Leverage platforms like Instagram and TikTok to showcase your work, engage with your audience and build a distinctive brand. Simultaneously, investing in PR can secure features in magazines and industry partnerships, expanding your reach and opening doors to new opportunities.

Jay Birmingham Celebrity stylist

When is the Right Time to Go Freelance?

Siobhan Jones Going freelance is a major decision that comes with its own set of challenges. It also comes with a lot of potential perks, but only if you time it right and do your planning and research in advance. L’Oréal Professionnel Global Artist, Siobhan Jones, offers her top tips for making the leap to becoming freelance: HAVE YOU BUILT A STRONG AND LOYAL CLIENTELE? One thing you’ll definitely need as a freelance hairdresser is a regular client base. They will be the foundation of your business – trying to do it alone could lead to disappointment and sleepless nights. Once you have a solid following who consistently seek out your services, you’ll know you’re on the right track.

ARE YOU FINANCIALLY STABLE? Being freelance can definitely bring financial rewards, but there will be some investment needed up-front to get things started. If you’re planning on working from a home salon, there will be the cost of having the necessary space converted so that you can safely and comfortably accommodate your clients. If you plan on being an independent stylist, you’ll need to consider the cost of products and the necessary liability insurance.

DO YOU HAVE ENOUGH EXPERIENCE? It’s great to have ambition, but it’s also crucial that you have a solid all-round skillset before you go at it alone. As a freelancer, clients will come to you for a whole set of services, including cuts, colouring and styling. They may also

want other specialist services such as hair smoothing and extensions. Do you need to spend more time learning additional skills?

CAN YOU MOTIVATE YOURSELF? Being a freelance hairdresser requires more than just exceptional styling skills.

It demands self-motivation, discipline and business acumen. Freelancers must be self-starters, willing to take initiative and manage their time effectively. You’ll need to handle bookkeeping, marketing, networking and client acquisition, all while maintaining your creativity and passion for hairstyling.

ARE YOU SAVVY ON SOCIALS? As a freelancer, social media will become an invaluable tool when it comes to marketing yourself to potential clients.

Make sure you master at least one platform — ideally the one that will most appeal to your target demographic. If necessary, seek some expert help in creating a social media presence and be disciplined in planning and creating content. Social media is a free marketing tool, but if you want your voice to be heard amongst the rest, you need to be saying something different.

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Take 3 Freelancer tips with Sta Studios Izaac Patty: BE ORGANISED AND SET BOUNDARIES. Whilst it’s super important to focus on the admin side of things, you must equally make sure you’re setting personal time aside too – I try not to get into the habit of sending emails at 11pm!

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Freelance 2 edit...

As a freelancer, you need to be able to manage the unknown; uncertainty is something you just have to accept. It’s up to you to market your skills and build your client base, so ensure you’re doing all you can to make your column busy. Social media and word of mouth is my main marketing channel. I know what works with my social grid (blonde hair, always!), and I encourage my clients to post and tag their styles too. If you’ve got a strong relationship with your clients, they will be your biggest supporters.

Jake Nugent OSMO Ambassador and Freelance Colourist

RECOGNISE. Be perceptive in recognising the right time to go freelance.

For me, it was when I became so busy that I started losing the enjoyment in my day. Having to close my book was a moment of serious reflection for me and, looking back, the start of my freelance journey.

FIND THE SPACE AND FIT! Convenience is key, it’s simple but true. You’re striking out on your own, so you need to make sure there are as few barriers as possible for both you and your clients to access the space you work in.

3

Claudia Möller: CREATE BALANCE. I recommend spending one day per week working from home, using the time to plan for the days ahead. This is when I like to complete my admin tasks – booking and confirming appointments, requesting deposits and social media preparation.

1

GET THE QUICKBOOKS APP. My least favourite part of being a freelancer is bookkeeping.

Using an app like QuickBooks saves me a huge amount of time, allowing me to keep up to date with my taxes and invoices so I can track my expenses.

2

FIND YOUR NICHE. Specialised skills help to set you apart as a stylist. A specific look or technique that you are passionate about can often attract a client base specific to your skillset, creating harmony in your professional life and connecting you to the right clients.

3

Holly Rudge: FOCUS ON SOCIAL. Build your socials and creative content, it’s the most powerful way for people to find you and access you! Sit down and decide your target audience, who they are and how you can engage them.

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WEAR CLOTHES TO REFLECT YOUR BRANDING. I see my wardrobe as an extension of my creativity, but also my ability to forecast trends and be current. You haven’t got a salon rep to fall back on, so it’s another way to build trust with your client that you’re going to deliver what they want.

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YOUR PRODUCTS, YOUR CHOICE. You are your own shopfront; you have to believe in the products you share to be authentic. If you’re passionate about these things, it’s easier to share your experience with them and maybe even increase your income.

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freelance special

A Freelancer’s Guide to Choosing the Right Co-Working Salon Meg Piper and Kelly Furnival, Solstice Hair Studio.

In an era where freelancing and mobile hairdressing has evolved from being looked down upon to a celebrated career choice, finding the perfect co-working salon has become crucial for stylists aiming to thrive in this side of the industry. With this changing landscape in mind, it’s essential to align yourself with a space that proudly champions the freelance model.

Here are our top tips for navigating the freelance space: ✔ Embrace the Co-Working Culture Look for a salon that not only accommodates freelancers, but celebrates them! A genuine commitment to fostering a collaborative environment sets the stage for a supportive and growth-oriented community. ✔ Align with Your Brand Values Consider your brand as a stylist – is it centred around sustainability, luxury or inclusivity? Seek out a salon that aligns with your values, creating a blend that reflects positively on both you and the salon.

✔ Assess the Space Beyond shared values, evaluate the practical aspects. Does the salon provide the space you need? You want to avoid feeling cramped and ensure the physical setup aligns with your vision. ✔ Championing Your Independence Choose a salon that champions your individuality; a space that encourages personal branding, supports your business vision and promotes your success is crucial. ✔ Inclusive House Rules Look for clear house rules that set boundaries. From securing your stock to defining station ownership, transparent guidelines create a professional and comfortable working environment.

Red Flags to Watch Out For: ✖ Absence of a Contract Ensure a robust contract is in place, protecting both you and the salon. Lack of a formal agreement can lead to misunderstandings and jeopardise the professionalism of the working relationship. ✖ Unauthorised Employment Practices Beware of salons imposing uniformity workdays and brand restrictions on freelancers. As a true freelancer, you should retain control over these aspects of your business.

✖ Mismanagement of Payments Avoid situations where your earnings are processed through the salon’s till. This not only blurs the lines of freelance status, but could lead to legal repercussions with tax authorities. ✖ Percentage Splits Be cautious of percentage split models as they may not work in favour of freelancers.

With tax deductions and other expenses, these arrangements can significantly reduce your take-home pay.

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COLOUR-ISMA Add even more beauty to your client colour transformations with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new and improved IGORA VIBRANCE demi-permanent colour line.

The latest upgrades build on the range’s versatility:

Today’s colour clients know what they want, and they expect their hairdressers to deliver their every colour wish on demand. What they really really want is vibrant colour, but with the freedom and flexibility to try new looks, confident in the knowledge that their hair will be protected from damage. For these clients, the commitment of permanent colour is a definite no-no!

MORE Services – full flexibility ensures more service options for all hair types.

MORE Shades – 4 new natural and 7 new blonde pastel shades are available to complement the existing portfolio, including the highly anticipated 10-series – allowing you to cater for the looks today’s clients are asking for.

As #partnersincraft, Schwarzkopf Professional is dedicated to empowering you with all the tools to make every salon service a success, and the new IGORA VIBRANCE enables you to deliver on all your client colour demands.

MORE Care – new FIBREBOND Technology has been added to all blonde toners, ensuring minimised hair breakage during blonding services.

#MORETOCREATE

MORE Sustainability – recycled plastic and recycled paper packaging is designed to be fully recyclable*.

With its ammonia-free liquid formula – that can transform into both a gel or cream – IGORA VIBRANCE has always enabled hairdressers to do MORE for their clients. This is true no matter the hair type, as the formula is suitable for wavy, curly and coily hair.

SAME Trusted Performance – thanks to the iconic formula offering up to 100% MORE shine.

*

Recycling requires local recycling possibilities and disposal in recycling stream. Check local recycling.

AT YOUR SERVICE...

To demonstrate how there is so much #MORETOCREATE with the new IGORA VIBRANCE, Schwarzkopf Professional has categorised three key salon services with high commercial appeal – showing you exactly how demi-permanent colouration can boost your salon business! To illustrate the versatility of these contemporary looks, Schwarzkopf Professional has partnered with eight guest Hair Artists and Ambassadors to showcase their own interpretations of each colour service.

COLOUR MELT

쑿 Using IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS to prelighten, Lesley Jennison glossed with two shades of IGORA VIBRANCE, a light milk brown and a soft beige blonde. The result is a cool-toned, sun-kissed look.

“I love the versatility of IGORA VIBRANCE, there are so many ways for us to use it in the salon every single day.”

– Lesley Jennison (@lesleyjennison)

BOSSING THE GLOSSING Colour Service #2 – Glossing This service involves a full-head application of IGORA VIBRANCE to enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or intensify natural or colour-treated hair. This service was interpreted in four different ways, demonstrating the amazing versatility of demi-permanent colouration.

Colour Service #1 – Colour Melt This service is a classic Dual Application, with IGORA ROYAL on the roots and IGORA VIBRANCE on the lengths and ends.

씰 Brendnetta Ashley has created a crimson balayage on curly hair by pre-lightening with BLONDME Clay Lightener and applying IGORA ROYAL at the roots, before blending three shades of IGORA VIBRANCE through the lengths and ends. The result? A seamless, yet vibrant red colour melt to enliven natural coils.

“IGORA VIBRANCE is for all types of hair texture – straight, wavy, curly and coily. Hair not only looks better but feels better too!”

– Brendnetta Ashley (@edgybgirl)

쑿 Linh Phan used BLONDME Premium Lightener to pre-lighten face-framing sections before glossing with IGORA VIBRANCE, creating a peek-a-boo pink colour pop around the face.

“IGORA VIBRANCE tones are so vivid, leaving my clients’ hair shiny, glossy and vibrant.”

– Linh Phan

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Colour Service #3 – Lived-In Blonde For this service, a soft and delicate blend of darker roots combines with lighter midlengths and ends, creating a high-impact, low-maintenance colour look. The result? An effortlessly natural or bolder look that gives dimension to the hair with the versatility to match various skin tones.

쑿 By pre-lightening dark brunette locks, Maggie Hancock created a base for her gloss, using two shades of IGORA VIBRANCE to craft a rich, yet effortlessly dimensional brunette look.

“I love being able to customise the IGORA VIBRANCE formula to each client’s hair type by choosing from either the Activator Lotion or Activator Gel.” – Maggie Hancock

쑿 After creating foil highlights using IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS, Shawna Russell created a timeless look using two shades of IGORA VIBRANCE for a subtle shadow root and extra dimension through the lengths and ends.

“I use the IGORA VIBRANCE lotion for a root tap or shadow root in a bowl application, followed by the gel activator with a bottle application for glossing any blonde – this gives the perfect lived-in blonde look.”

– Shawna Russell (@hairbyshawna_russell)

쑿 Grace Dalgleish pre-lightened all the way to platinum, before toning with IGORA VIBRANCE to create a playful peachy blonde that’s equally eye-catching and effortless.

“IGORA VIBRANCE gives me complete creative freedom to create bespoke, lived-in blondes.”

– Grace Dalgleish (@gracedalgleishx)

IGORA VIBRANCE

쑿 Aleksandar added fiery dimension to red tresses by pre-lightening with IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS before glossing with two shades of IGORA VIBRANCE, creating a subtle root melt with lighter, brighter ends.

“My clients love to change their hair colour and IGORA VIBRANCE colours allow us to change their shades seasonally.”

– Aleksandar Dramicanin (@aleksandar_dramicanin)

Online & Digital: Committed to being your Partner in Craft, these Schwarzkopf Professional collaborations will enable you to recreate multiple contemporary IGORA VIBRANCE looks step-by-step, helping you to develop new service offerings in your salon and delivering the looks that today’s clients are asking for.

All IGORA VIBRANCE product and education information can be found on the Schwarzkopf Professional website: www.schwarzkopfpro.com/vibrance www.rdr.link/HAR014

advertorial

BLONDE AMBITIONS

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“LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! GIVES TWO HAIRDRESSERS A GLIMPSE INTO MARK’S WORLD OF SESSION STYLING AS HE HELPS TO BRING THEIR CREATIVE VISION TO LIFE ON THE PAGES OF PRO HAIR MAGAZINE.”

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MAR ITH

K LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

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As a testament to his incredible talents as a boss and mentor, Mark’s five-strong art team under the helm of himself and coDirector, Richard Darby, has also been internationally recognised, winning the IHA International Artistic Team of the Year award and picking up the main prize for Artistic Team at the British Hairdressing Awards 2023.

SO, WHO COULD BE BETTER TO DELIVER A MASTERCLASS ON THE SKILLS AND SECRETS IT TAKES TO CREATE THE PERFECT EDITORIAL SHOT? WE DELVE INTO MARK’S AWARD-WINNING FORMULA IN OUR REGULAR SERIES OF LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! WHERE BOTH BUDDING AND ACCOMPLISHED HAIRDRESSERS LEARN HOW TO CREATE FRONT COVER-WORTHY IMAGES. “LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! is the ideal salon stylist’s introduction to session work. This issue, our two hair stylists – Kay Binnersley and Brian Leo McCallum – won a competition to join us, and wow did they deliver! The purpose of these shoots is to see everyone collaborate and bounce ideas around. Everyone comes here ready to help each other and with a desire to learn. I always remind everyone that the camera captures every detail, so the hair needs to be precise but look effortless at the same time.

We set Kay and Brian a brief to style two models with three looks based on the theme of Sport Luxe. As we’re moving into spring, this blend between luxury tailoring and activewear is more popular than ever. Drawing our references from US Vogue and the new season runways, this is street style upgraded and I was excited to see how we could translate that into the hair we would be creating.

Echoing the ‘less is more’ ease of the athleisure look, the hair needed to be wearable and desirable, merging effortless movement with a totally glam edge. I always keep the Revlon Professional Style Masters portfolio in my kit bag for styling and today it was perfect. It’s light on the hair and very client friendly, plus it’s great for photography – it doesn’t weigh the hair down and you can easily adapt looks from one to the next without residue. Most importantly, the hair still feels clean, and you end up with an ease and softness that delivers the exact result we were after. The range has become my session secret weapon.”

LET’S TAKE A LOOK…

special partnership

AS GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, MARK LEESON IS A NAME SYNONYMOUS WITH GLAMOROUS, WEARABLE HAIR. BEST KNOWN FOR HIS IMMACULATELY EXECUTED PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTIONS, MARK’S ICONIC STYLE HAS MOST RECENTLY SEEN HIM SCOOP THE ACCOLADE OF AHIA INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2023. HIS WORK IS HIGHLY REGARDED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, COMBINING TECHNICAL EXPERTISE WITH COMMERCIAL APPEAL, AND CUTTINGEDGE PRECISION WITH FLAWLESS, FEMININE STYLE. MUCH EMULATED AND INSTANTLY RECOGNISABLE, HE HAS CREATED AN ENTIRE BRAND WITH BEAUTIFUL HAIR AS ITS HALLMARK.

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ITH

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LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! “Today was fierce, I loved it and I’ve learned loads. I’ve admired Mark’s work for a long time and it’s been so interesting to see how his mind works – he has this ability to almost create something from nothing. He also has an amazing eye for detail, whilst still being super supportive and making you feel welcome. The models were beautiful, the moodboard was clear and the looks we created were bang on trend.

Getting Mark’s insight on how hair comes across in an image in more of a 2-D presentation is fascinating. It’s been great to be part of that process.”

BRIAN LEO MCCALLUM AT ROAR HAIR & BEAUTY, GLASGOW

“It’s been an incredible day where hair, fashion and make-up have all come together to create a set of fantastic images. We settled on the theme of Sport Luxe, which is such a forward-fashion look for spring. Kay and Brian were both hands-on and great workers who took direction but also injected their own vision. I love sharing knowledge and I hope that Kay and Brian have both expanded their skills and enjoyed the day.”

MARK LEESON

“It’s been such an exciting, inspirational day, I’ve loved everything about it. Working with Mark and Richard has been totally motivating and there’s lots I’ll take away. Mark has taught me that you can be more relaxed about styling on set, it doesn’t always need to be as structured as you think; less is more. He’s also shown me that you shouldn’t sweat the small things, you should just let creativity flow. It’s been a real honour to work with Mark.”

KAY BINNERSLEY AT KAY BINNERSLEY HAIR, FEATHERSTONE

MEET THE TEAM “So much of capturing an iconic shot is about putting together a cohesive creative team,” says Mark. “These are the people I have on direct dial. They are masters at interpreting a brief and delivering all that you need to let your hair take centre stage.”

PHOTOGRAPHY | RICHARD MILES An ability to push boundaries coupled with a keen eye for detail has established Richard as an innovative force within the industry, delivering distinctive and captivating photographic results.

MAKE-UP | LAUREN MATHIS As a make-up artist with over 17 yearsexperience, Lauren has an adaptable,

quick and commercial approach that sees her fully booked throughout the industry.

STYLING | ANNA LATHAM With a background in fashion promotion and styling, Anna has an eye on every emerging trend and has all the right pieces to pull together the most photoready looks.

BTS IMAGES & VIDEO | LIAM OAKES Becoming a familiar face on the hair circuit at events and shoots, Liam has a knack for capturing the kind of behindthe-scenes shots that give a detail-driven, access-all-areas view of the day. His video content is cleverly crafted and always engaging.

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■ Brian began by prepping the hair with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS CURLY ORBITAL GEL for a clean base, then sectioned off the front and French braided both sides up to the top of the head. Using chopstick curling tongs, Brian created tight curls, which were then brushed out using a dressing brush. The look was pinned and sprayed in place using a mix of REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS MODULAR HAIRSPRAY and REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS GLAMOURAMA HAIRSPRAY for a final burst of gloss.

■ REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS MODULAR MOUSSE was used for body and hold and then Brian created the illusion of a full bob by pinning away the back sections of the hair. The hair was prepped with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS MODULAR HAIRSPRAY, before waving the sides and straightening the ends to get a contrasted, textured look. The fringe area was spritzed with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS GLAMOURAMA HAIRSPRAY for a hit of photo-ready shine.

■ Kay pre-curled the hair with tongs, using REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS VOLUME AMPLIFIER MOUSSE as a structured base for the style before she started. She then brushed all the hair forward and to one side, lightly backcombing it to give height. The lengths were then directed backwards and over to the other side to hang soft and loose. Kay used REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS MODULAR HAIRSPRAY and then brushed the hair through to soften the lengths for that touchable finish.

■ The hair was prepped with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS LISSAVER, then soft curled with a large barrel tong. Kay was aiming for loose, flowing waves so she started a quarter of the way down the lengths and kept the end sections free, going directionally in sections with the flow of the hair. Each wave was pinned and then sprayed with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS CREATOR MEMORY SPRAY for soft, but lasting hold. Kay removed the clips and soft brushed throughout the hair for natural, free-flowing movement.

■ For her final look, Kay raked REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS LISSAVER through the lengths and ends, then created two loose plaits at either side of the head. She left the hair softer down one side to cascade down, pulling out some loose tendrils and fixing with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS GLAMOURAMA HAIRSPRAY to hold softly.

TECHNICAL KNOW-HOW

■ Working with Karla’s natural body and curl, Brian prepped the hair with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS FANATICURLS CURL ACTIVATING CREAM, before using a curling iron directed away from the face and through the centre parting to create volume.

Pinning each curl into place until set, Brian then dressed out the curls using a hairdryer, fixing into place with REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS MODULAR HAIRSPRAY. Finally, he teased out the curls using his fingers.

CREDITS: Creative Director: Mark Leeson Shoot Director: Richard Darby

GET THE LOOK: MAKE-UP “The Sport Luxe make-up look is accessible and sporty yet with an expensive, glam edge,” says Lauren. “Skin is polished and dewy with just a wash of colour on the eyes and a subtle lip tint, ensuring that there are no harsh lines and everything is well-blended. Crucially, the look is topped off with the essential fluffy brow.”

Make-up: Lauren Mathis Styling: Anna Latham Photography: Richard Miles BTS photography/video: Liam Oakes Products: Revlon Professional

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LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

Kay Binnersley

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special partnership

Brian Leo McCallum

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Kay Binnersley W

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Brian Leo McCallum & Kay Binnersley

RK LEESON

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

Kay Binnersley

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TO FIND OUT MORE OR TO BECOME A REVLON PROFESSIONAL STOCKIST CALL 020 7391 7440 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.UK@REVLON.COM (UK) OR +353 (0)1886 9300 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.IRE@REVLON.COM (IE) TO PICK UP TIPS, TRENDS AND STYLE INSPIRATION, FOLLOW @REVLONPROFESSIONALUK ON INSTAGRAM, FACEBOOK AND YOUTUBE, OR VISIT WWW.REVLONPROFESSIONAL.COM

special partnership

Brian Leo McCallum

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COVER GIRL HAIR: Jason Cocking and Chris Baker MAKE-UP: Grace Hayward STYLING: Lewis Cameron PHOTOGRAPHY: Chris Bulezuik

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Hairdressing

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O

UR INSPIRATION FOR THE AUDACE COLLECTION WAS THE BLENDING OF AI CONCEPTS WITH REAL LIFE – BRINGING THE DIGITAL FUTURE INTO OUR HAIR, BEAUTY AND FASHION. AI IS NOW BECOMING A REAL PART OF LIFE FOR MANY, WHILST OTHERS REMAIN A LITTLE HESITANT OF WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS. WE WANTED TO BREAK THIS BOUNDARY AND BRING AI TO REAL LIFE IN A BRIGHT, BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL WAY.

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HAIR: F&M Hairdressing MAKE-UP: Paulina Siembor STYLING: Ian Tod PHOTOGRAPHY: Jarred Photography

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SHOP THE DROP!

KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON Crafted to combat inflamed, irritated and flaky scalps, INNOluxe has launched its brand-new Calm Down range.

Including the Calm Down Shampoo, Conditioner and Tonic Water, the products use the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal benefits of menthol, liquorice and tea-tree to eradicate the consequences of a dry and itchy scalp. www.rdr.link/HAR015

REMEMBER MY NAME, FRAME!

Introducing the brand-new Baby Framers from Gee Hair, a two-piece clip-in set designed to enhance the hair’s very front pieces. With an undetectable, effortless integration into the delicate front strands, Baby Framers work to add length and thickness, sculpting and slimming the face whether the hair is up or down. www.rdr.link/HAR016

TURN UP THE HEAT With an aim of restoring hair to its softest, healthiest prime, Oribe unveils the latest addition to its Gold Lust Collection – the Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray. Protecting hair from temperatures up to 232°C, the dry spray instantly conditions and restores damaged strands, leaving behind a touchable, healthy-looking, frizz-free finish. www.rdr.link/HAR017

A WHOLE LOT OF LUXURY Identifying the needs of hair extensionists and clients, Remi Cachet has released six new colours in its premium Elegance hair range. Known by Remi Cachet stylists as the premium range for clients to invest in, the Elegance range already boasts 55 colours, each lasting up to 12 months with the correct and recommended aftercare. The new colours will be available across its range of Wefts, Pre-Bonded and Tape Hair Extensions. www.rdr.link/HAR018

DON’T YOU KNOW THAT YOU’RE (DE)TOXIC? Designed for intensive and gentle cleansing, ALFAPARF Milano Professional has introduced a new addition to its Semi Di Lino Sublime Detox range – the Detoxifying Low Shampoo. This vegan, biodegradable formula works to remove cosmetic product residue, hard water, minerals, chlorine, excess oil, impurities and pollutant particles for clean, lightweight, and healthy-looking hair. www.rdr.link/HAR019

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A CLEAN, GREEN REVIVAL Allowing you to elevate your client’s aftercare in the salon and at home, introducing the new Revive Balm from Keune. With 90% natural ingredients, the ultra-strengthening leave-in balm has been designed to restore hair damage and offer superior colour longevity. The product is available in two sizes: a 150ml for professionals in-salon, and a retail-friendly 50ml variant for clients’ aftercare. www.rdr.link/HAR020

HANDS UP FOR HYDRATION Neäl & Wølf are excited to announce the launch of two new additions to its HYDRATE family – HYDRATE Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner. Designed to transform the look and feel of dry and dehydrated hair, the new launches join the HYDRATE Moisture Mask to create a trio of intensely hydrating products suitable for all hair types and in-salon treatments. www.rdr.link/HAR021

POMEGRANATE PROTECTION Introducing the Clean Beauty Color Protect range from Paul Mitchell, a brand-new line crafted to cleanse, condition and protect coloured hair. With a focus of preventing colour fade from environmental exposure, the antioxidant-rich pomegranate extract and borage oil visibly reduce signs of damage to the hair whilst restoring radiance and shine. www.rdr.link/HAR022

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product spotlight

head health

Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Bonacure Scalp Care range helps to supercharge the future quality and condition of the hair.

Giving scalp care the attention it deserves, Schwarzkopf Professional has formulated a specialist Scalp Care range within its Bonacure haircare portfolio.

BONACURE SCALP SOOTHING RANGE with Kale + Madecassoside for dry and sensitive scalps.

BONACURE ANTI-DANDRUFF RANGE with Superberries + AHA for dandruff-prone scalps.

BONACURE ROOT ACTIVATING RANGE with Guarana + Biotin for thinning hair and hair loss.

BONACURE SCALP CARE SUPERFOOD COMPLEX Each of the three Scalp Care sub-ranges has been created by hair and scalp experts, undergoing dermatological evaluation to approve their suitability for the diverse needs of the scalp, including dry and sensitive scalps and those prone to dandruff or thinning hair.

Bonacure’s new Scalp Care assortment leverages the power of a Superfood Complex – a blend of superfood, skincare ingredients and actives that help to rebalance the scalp. Each ingredient within the Superfood Complex is renowned for boasting a range of benefits:

BONACURE SCALP SOOTHING RANGE WITH KALE + MADECASSOSIDE FOR DRY & SENSITIVE SCALPS: ● Kale is high in vitamins A, B, C, K, antioxidants, Omega-3 and Omega-6. ● Madecassoside is a pure active ingredient with soothing, moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties, sourced from Centella asiatica leaves.

With up to 100,000 follicles, each containing a single growing hair, the scalp has a diverse range of needs to keep it at optimum health.

Poor scalp health is associated with issues such as dandruff, skin irritation, weak hair and even premature hair loss.

Scalp care is just as important as skincare, and the new Bonacure vegan* and free-from** Scalp Care formulas utilise a powerful Superfood Complex to rebalance the scalp, supercharging the future quality and condition of the hair.

BONACURE ROOT ACTIVATING WITH GUARANA + BIOTIN FOR THINNING HAIR & HAIR LOSS ● Guarana has high antioxidant and stimulating caffeine levels. ● Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin that helps the body metabolise fats, carbohydrates and proteins, contributing to keratin production.

BONACURE ANTI-DANDRUFF RANGE WITH SUPERBERRIES + AHA FOR DANDRUFF-PRONE SCALPS: ● Superberries have a high level of antioxidants and vitamins with anti-inflammatory properties. ● AHA* contains exfoliating properties, aiding the removal of dirt and pollutants whilst also providing moisture retention. *ALPHA HYDROXY ACID

*Free from animal-derived ingredients. **Free from Sodium Lauryl Sulphate & Sodium Laureth Sulphate, silicones and artificial colourants.

For more information, visit WWW.RDR.LINK/HAR023

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INDOLA celebrates a new season of

Tr u e C o l o u r L o v e r s w i t h t h e re l a u n c h

A

of its Color Style Mousse.

new season of COLOUR LOVERS has arrived! Starting with the relaunch of its Color Style Mousse, a unique, temporary direct dye range for a low-commitment hair transformation, INDOLA is offering more ways to step-up your colour services.

This innovative vegan mousse offers a seamless, all-in-one solution for salon professionals and freelancers alike. The new Color Style Mousse, with the smart blend of colour and styling in one easy step, provides instant multi-benefits and unlimited services – including refreshment, toning, neutralisation and more – all in as little as 10 minutes.

Boasting a fresh bottle design with a premium matte finish and an improved formula, INDOLA’s Color Style Mousse eliminates the sticky residue commonly associated with mousse styling products, allowing for a soft and natural hold.

Incredibly versatile, the range introduces new applications – users can opt to leave in for instant tint and styling benefits or rinse off for colour intensifying – making it adaptable for both in-salon services and at-home maintenance.

When it comes to styling, this multi-benefit mousse not only enhances natural volume but also acts as a shield against the damaging effects of blow-drying.

When colouring, the mousse’s ability to neutralise unwanted tones and transform existing shades unveils a spectrum of new tonal possibilities. It also serves as a pre-pigmentation tool to prevent premature colour fading or as a re-pigmentation agent to combat undesirable brassy or green tones. Its compatibility with the renowned PCC range allows for unlimited intermixable options, refreshing tired tones or creating temporary fun, bold or pastel colours.

INDOLA has also introduced a new shade, Dark Ash, to the versatile 15-shade Color Style Mousse portfolio, as well as also renaming two of the current shades – Powdery Lilac has become Soft Mauve and Pearl Beige is now Beige Blonde.

Color Style Mousse is available to buy now from selected wholesale stockists.

Find your nearest one here: https://www.indola.co.uk/contact.html For more information, you can also click here WWW.RDR.LINK/HAR024

product spotlight

BE SEDUCED BY THIS MOUSSE!

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Booked..!

MALE GROOMING TREND? We keep seeing the modern mullet! This can look really cool if the shape has balance and works for face shape etc.

As a celebrity hairdresser and groomer, LUKE BENSON certainly has his finger on the pulse. This month, we ask him what he’s excited about right now…

NEWEST FOLLOW?

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensoncreative and @lukebensonsalon

NEW HAIR PRODUCT? Keune Liquid Activator from its Semi Color range has revolutionised application time and ease for our clients in the salon.

A lot of my recent follows have been some of the new local businesses in the vicinity of my new salon. That community feel is something we really wanted to focus on; helping to grow each other in the area is so important for everyone’s success.

SHOES? I’m a trainer geek – I have countless pairs of Nike Dunks and Jordans in every colourway imaginable!

NEW PIECE OF KIT? I love my new BaByliss PRO Falco hairdryer.

FASHION BRAND? I really like what is coming out of S.S.Daley at the moment, and I also love Casablanca.

FRAGRANCE? Tom Ford Noir or Escentric Molecules.

SKINCARE? I’m currently using Swiss brand Cellcosmet’s Cellmen range. I got sent it a year ago and love what it does both for me and also when doing grooming jobs on talent.

TRENDING HAIR TECHNIQUE? I’m excited that I can see short short hair coming back for 2024 – I hope clients embrace this and try the chop!

SOMETHING YOU’RE LOOKING FORWARD TO INDUSTRY-WISE IN 2024?

The Professional Hairdresser Awards of course!

RESOLUTION FOR 2024?

I don’t like to make resolutions, I prefer goals – I want to continue to grow my brand and the success of my new salon and team.

MALE STYLE INFLUENCER? Kit Butler

FEMALE STYLE INFLUENCER? Florence Pugh

PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 29/01/2024 09:57 Page 1

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C

VISIT

Antony Kalli, franchisee of HOB Salons Cockfosters, takes us on a tour of his new salon.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR? As a franchisee, I was mindful of the HOB brand and the identity it holds. Keeping within the brand was certainly our starting point; monochrome is the norm for HOB Salons, but we opted for softer tones and invested in the lighting which has resulted in it becoming a feature of the salon. We also added other textures such as a wooden wall and a quartz reception desk which have elevated the overall interior to create a really luxurious feel.

While it has a similar feel to other HOB Salons, Cockfosters has its own personal touch and distinct features that are unique to us.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN? I love interior design and spend a lot of time searching for inspiration – I researched a lot of current interior trends, but was still conscious of selecting a design that was timeless. I also visited premium retail stores and other salons to gain ideas, as well as using the other HOB Salons design concepts to come up with my own.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER? No, I did it all myself. I’ve been working in salons for more than 20 years and have a strong understanding of what works and what doesn’t. The layout of my salon was important to me, as I think it plays a really important part

in the salon experience. I didn’t want the salon to be open plan, for example, as I wanted more privacy at the backwash area. With this in mind, I added a wall to divide it from the rest of the floor space, with dimmer lighting to create a more relaxing experience for clients.

This wall then allowed me space to add an 85” TV screen that plays HOB presentations, behind-the-scenes footage of our show work and photographic collections. To be honest, the design really evolved while the salon was being created – even the best designs can spark an idea when it’s being put together!

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR. I would describe the salon as an open space that’s minimalistic and tranquil. We have 17 styling sections, but the salon never feels squashed as there’s plenty of space between clients. We have created different vibes in designated areas within the salon – the salon space, for example, is filled with great energy whereas the backwash area at the back of the salon offers a more spa-like feel. The minimalistic, clean lines in the design reflect the hair that we are known for.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN? We have had some great compliments from clients, especially about the feeling of space.

We cover 1300 square feet with 17 stations, and there’s a real buzz in the air – it feels more like entering a community than going somewhere for a haircut!

WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN? I invested a lot of time and money on selecting the best lighting, creating a drop ceiling with feature lights. The monochrome decor is pebble stone and black, which is softer than white (which I find can sometimes feel a little harsh). We also have a black wooden wall that works well with our concrete floor. The floor not only looks great, but it’s also incredibly easy to maintain. The drop ceiling creates a calming vibe, and the lights complement the natural light we get from the big glass shop front.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES IN THE SALON? Our reception desk is recycled from a previous salon, and I asked the tile shop next door to transform it for me. They did a great job and now it looks a lot more expensive than it is! It’s wrapped in black quartz and is a real focal point. The salon-use cupboard is one of my favourite areas – it stores everything and has charge points for phones and clippers, so there’s not a wire in sight! It was one of the best ideas I had, as the salon always looks tidy and clutter free. It’s the cupboard of dreams!

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salon profile

Cockfosters

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN? Our flooring doesn’t absorb chemicals such as colours, this means it only needs water to be cleaned, allowing us not to constantly use detergents. The desk and stations are all recycled, we also reconditioned everything we could and used LED lighting throughout.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURES OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL? Salon IQ has a useful communication tool, allowing us to regularly communicate and build stronger relationships with our clients. The bespoke reports enable me to measure the performance of each team member, and I can easily track the growth of specific services, client retention and our company KPIs. Investing into great salon software is so important for any business.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN? While a lot of it was reconditioned, our styling chairs and backwash are from Takara Belmont.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM? Yes, it’s black from head to toe for everyone – apprentices all the way up to senior team members! I just think it looks more professional. When you look at high-end stores, they always have a form of uniform and I believe we have to look better than our clients.

Having a dress code encourages the team to look smart whilst also making them easily identifiable.

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quick fire favourites

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TO READ: I HAVE JUST FINISHED ULTRA-PROCESSED PEOPLE BY CHRIS VAN TULLEKEN. IT HAS REALLY MADE ME THINK ABOUT THE FOOD TYPES WE EAT AND THE EFFECT IT HAS ON OUR BODIES.

My happy place has always been when I am doing hair and teaching hairdressers wherever I am in the world. I just love connecting with people of all ages – it truly drives my passion for our industry. If I can offer just one idea, technique or skill that my students actually use to grow their client business, then I know I have fulfilled my objective.

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minutes with

CAROLYN NEWMAN Carolyn Newman, International Colour Expert and Educator talks Fashion, Family and Fish and Chips WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME? One of my favourite things to do is visit fashion exhibitions and art galleries. Not only do I find them an enjoyable thing to do with my family and friends, but they also give me new ideas for colour techniques! I love seeing the craft

behind the designer’s vision. I am currently obsessed with the artist Yayoi Kusama, whose own personal style, art and installations are so cool – her collaboration with Louis Vuitton was incredible and she is 94 years old. What an icon!

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION. My latest collection is called Capsule. It was created using the new Insight Professional colours, with tones of Mink, Rouge and Bronze through my mini and midi colour blocking techniques. We explored each haircut shape and created a fresh, wearable texture which we felt was current and suited varying lengths and styles.

The possibilities with these colour and styling techniques are endless and I love the fact that they’re so versatile.

TO WATCH: RIGHT NOW, I AM LOVING SILO, SLOW HORSES AND FOR ALL MANKIND.

3 CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS. I am so fortunate to have many proud moments, choosing one is so hard. Being awarded the first ever 99% mark in the L’Oréal Colour Specialist Degree in 1997 was an important achievement. It made me realise how much I knew about the technical side of colouring hair, which then helped me to launch my own role as a Colour Director and Colour Expert.

The second proudest moment was when I launched my ‘Be Your Best’ Mentoring Programme in 2023 – this was my way of giving back to the industry through free education sessions to apprentices and graduate stylists.

TO LOOK UP TO: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD. SHE WAS SUCH AN INCREDIBLE DESIGNER AND INSPIRING BUSINESS ICON, EDUCATING US ON CLIMATE CHANGE AS WELL AS FASHION AND STYLE. TO VISIT: AUSTRALIA! I LOVE GOING HOME TO HANG OUT WITH MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT’S SUMMER SO I CAN SPEND TIME SWIMMING AND DRINKING COCKTAILS AT THE BEACH CAFES.

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TO LISTEN: MY CURRENT FAVOURITE ARTIST IS JESSIE WARE. I RECENTLY SAW HER LIVE AT ALEXANDRA PALACE, WHICH WAS FULL ON DISCO VIBES! HER ALBUM ‘THAT FEELS GOOD!’ IS FABULOUS.

TO EAT: WHO DOESN’T LOVE A FISH AND CHIP SUPPER!

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TO USE: INSIGHT PROFESSIONAL TEXTURIZING SEA SALT SPRAY. THIS PRODUCT GIVES VOLUME TO MY FINE HAIR WITHOUT THE STICKINESS, AND I LOVE USING IT ON MY CLIENTS TO CREATE BEACHY, WAVY TEXTURES TOO.

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