Professional hairdresser May 2023

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by colour experts FOR COLOUR EXPERTS

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER MAY 2023

7FIRST WORD

8HEADLINES

10OUT OUT

KAO Salon Division

11COVER LOOK

Goldwell

14MENTAL HEALTH MEMO

16BUSINESS MEMO

17COLOUR MEMO

18SUSTAINABLE MEMO

REGULARS

20WOMAN TO WOMAN

Karoliina Saunders interviews

Antoinette Beenders

23HAIR ME OUT

Andrew Barton reacts

62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson shares his diary

64VISIT

Collinge & Co

665 MINUTES WITH…

Nick Irwin

SPECIAL

24THE BRIDAL EDIT Wedding timings, trends and transformations

28Alexander Kiryliuk

30Shelley Lane

31Remi Cachet

32THE BUSINESS OF BRIDES With Teresa Weller

OUT
1020 24
OUT: KAO Salon Division London Showcase
WOMAN TO WOMAN: Antoinette Beenders WEDDING SPECIAL The Bridal Edit
CONT

50

PORTFOLIO:

OSiS

62

BOOKED..! Luke Benson shares his diary

64

VISIT: Collinge & Co

TENTS

BUSINESS

34PHIL-ING IN THE BLANKS With Phil Smith

35CONOR JAMES DOYLE

36BLADON MORIARTY

37ELENA LAVAGNI

38STYLIST vs CYBORG

PORTFOLIO

40Rainbow Room International

46JOICO

50OSiS

59

PRODUCTS

56DROPPED

Latest Products

58COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Joico

59PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

OSiS

60COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Goldwell

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A Nice May for a White Wedding

From ceremony to cocktails to dinner to dancing, bridal hair plays a starring role in the wedding day aesthetic.

With traditional chic, nineties minimalism, gothic nuptials and sustainable style all strong trends for the weddings of 2023, every bride has her own vision for her perfect day. Whether it’s bang on a runway trend or more of a nuanced nod, as their hairdresser you must translate the bride’s wishes into the wedding hair of her dreams. Check out our Bridal Edit on page 24 for advice and tips on timings, trends and transformations.

Did you know an estimated one in six people have experienced a common mental health problem in the past week? In light of May being Mental Health Awareness Month, our Mental Health Memo on page14 shines a light on the mental wellbeing of our industry.

There is so much more to read in this issue: Angelo Seminara reveals how he created our gorgeous front cover for Goldwell on page11; our columnists get to grips with client retention, complaints and employment dilemmas in the Business section, and our stand-out collections inspire with cool, consumer and campaign vibes.

There are three bank holidays this month, so plenty of time to catch up on all this and more. Enjoy this issue.

@PROHAIRMAG Q @PROHAIRMAGWWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Editor

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Designer Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Group Sales Manager Ray Suitters rsuitters@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799

Fax: 01923 246901

23,208 • July 21 –June 22

Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year –£30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year –£50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year –£65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.co.uk.

©2023 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

HAIR:Angelo Seminara for Goldwell PHOTOGRAPHY:Ralph Mecke by colour experts FOR COLOUR EXPERTS
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HEADLINES

KAO INCLUDED IN THE WORLD’S MOST ETHICAL COMPANIES LIST

The Ethisphere Institute, a leading US think-tank, has named Kao Corporation – parent company of Kao Salon Division – as one of the World’s Most Ethical Companies. Kao is a leading consumer goods company and the only Asian company to have made the list every year since Ethisphere began its ranking in 2007.

SHOWPONY HAIR EXTENSIONS ACQUIRED BY KEVIN.MURPHY

Sharing ethical values, visions for growth, and creating impactful positive change in the hair industry, Showpony has announced that the global company is now part of the Kevin Murphy Group. As one of Australia’s leading hair extension brands, Showpony offers premium hair extensions, accessories, education and support to customers and industry professionals around the world.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS ANNOUNCES NEW ID ARTIST TEAM MEMBERS

After another year of talented individuals showcasing their work, the 14 new ID Artist team members have been announced. With over 100 applicants, the entrant level was extremely high and the competition was fierce. The successful candidates will now receive unique opportunities, training and skill development across a two-year period, including the chance to train with top industry names. Visit our website for a full list of the new ID Artists: www.rdr.link/HAI001

A LIKE-MINDED PARTNERSHIP FOR PAUL MITCHELL

Paul Mitchell announces model and activist Quannah Chasinghorse as its newest Global Ambassador. With shared values of honour, inclusion and self-expression, Quannah says:

“I am honoured to partner with Paul Mitchell and celebrate what it means to be iconic, embodying your boldest self and style. Working with a family-first brand that champions self-expression means a great deal.”

@PROHAIRMAG Q @PROHAIRMAG WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

A GEORDIE CELEBRATION

Additional Lengths recently celebrated the opening of its new flagship salon and store in Stockton, with Geordie Shore star Charlotte Crosby cutting the ribbon alongside Managing Director Victoria Lynch. The

FLYING THE FLAG FOR HAIRDRESSING CAREERS

Last month, the Headmasters Careers & Education team headed off to Sandown Racecourse to take part in the National Apprenticeship Show. Welcoming over 3000 school leavers, and the only hairdressing company at the day-long event, the Headmasters team were out in force to show prospective students what a career in hairdressing could offer them.

PRO HAIR PRESENTS: AN INTERVIEW WITH THE NHBF

As the first of an exclusive new video series, Pro Hair recently took a trip up to Huddersfield in collaboration with the NHBF. Here at the Link Training Academy,

TEAMWORK MAKES THE DREAM WORK

Authentic Beauty Concept UK & Ireland has announced their brand-new education team. On board to support the salon community with product development, technique know-how and brand awareness, the three new Education Consultants are Anthony McMeiken, Jody Brooks and Dan Mewies.

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Offering the perfect combination of inspirational presentations teamed with the opportunity to learn more about the Kao Salon brand and product collections, guests were transported to experience zones. Here they could explore the latest launches, including the exclusive unveiling of NEW Goldwell Topchic Zero and KERASILK.

There were inspirational trend presentations from Kao Salon Guest Artists and Ambassadors, including Casey Coleman of CHAIR Salons, and Lydia Wolfe from Jack &the Wolfe who each showcasedtheir incredible colour knowledge, skills and trend insights using new Goldwell Topchic Zero. They also shared their experience of Goldwell Color Atelier, developed to support the salon industry by championing professional colour services and by helping grow consumer trust and desire for professional colour services.

In another zone, Jack Mead from Jack & the Wolfe revealed his latest styling trends, tips and techniques with KMS Hair.

After guests had walked through each bespoke brand experience zone, and enjoyed the popular sweet & drinks bars, it was time for the

SHOW& TELL

KAO SALON DIVISION’S LONDON SHOWCASE EVENT WELCOMED OVER 350 GUESTS FOR AN EXCLUSIVE BRAND EXPERIENCE, OFFERING THE OPPORTUNITY TO BECOME FULLY IMMERSED IN THE KAO SALON IMAGE.

mainstage shows. Hosted by Kao Salon Associate Director of Education, Irene Meikle, guests enjoyed an exciting, fast-paced showcase with hair and model presentations.

A high-impact presentation from new Kao Salon group partner and mavericks of hairdressing, the Rush Art Team: Andy Heasman, International Artistic Director; Tina Farey, Editorial Director; Seung Ki

The team showcased their ‘Wonderland’ creative looks, bringing a digital subculture to life.

Finally, Goldwell Color Global Ambassador, Angelo Seminara, left the audience awe-struck with his inspirational colour and styling creations –‘Haute Couture Hair’. Inspired by fashion editorial and art exhibitions, and featuring a feather boa, Angelo used his favourite professional colour, Goldwell Elumen, to create fluorescent, bright colours.

get the COVER LOOK

GOLDWELL COLOR GLOBAL AMBASSADOR, ANGELO SEMINARA, REVEALS HOW HE ACHIEVED THIS SIMPLE BUT STUNNING SUMMERY VIBE SO YOU CAN CREATE THIS COVER GIRL LOOK ON YOUR CLIENTS.

GOLDWELL COLOR GLOBAL AMBASSADOR, ANGELO SEMINARA, REVEALS HOW HE ACHIEVED THIS SIMPLE BUT STUNNING SUMMERY VIBE SO YOU CAN CREATE THIS COVER GIRL LOOK ON YOUR CLIENTS.

I created this style by adding subtle layers for a beautifully light and playful feel, acceptable for any occasion. With the modern, busy woman in mind, this look requires minimal styling, is easy to manage and lasts all day long.

I started with Dualsenses Curls & Waves Hydrating Shampoo and applied Dualsenses Hydrating Serum Spray to towel-dried hair before styling. With curls, you want to use a product that will hold the curl without feeling crispy or weighed down, so I set the hair with StyleSign Curls & Waves Soft Waver.

For colour, you can refresh clients’ hair this spring with an updated take on the classic brown, we went with a cool almost silvery finish using Topchic Zero colour.

11 COOL MOCHA This look offers a new take on classic brown. EXISTING SHADE: 4NA MID-LENGTH AND ENDS Sun-lightened 58 STRETCHED REGROWTH 60 ml System Developer Lotion 9% (30 vol.) 40ml Topchic Zero 6SB 20ml Topchic Zero 7NA STRETCHED HIGHLIGHTS 60 ml System Developer Lotion 12% (40 vol.) 40ml Topchic Zero 8SB 20ml Topchic Zero 9V RE-BASE COLOR 60 ml System Developer Lotion 9% (30 vol.) 40ml Topchic Zero 6SB 20ml Topchic Zero 7NA

In light of May being Mental Health Awareness Month, Pro Hair shines a spotlight on the mental wellbeing of our industry…

mentalhealth

THE BIG MANIFEST: A DIGITAL PORTRAIT EXHIBITION BY LOUIS BYRNE

As part of his inspirational I Can I am and I Will movement, hairdresser, artist and activist, Louis Byrne, is once again campaigning for mental health awareness and inclusivity with the launch of a digital portrait exhibition.

Over the last four years, his empowerment campaign has focused on encouraging individuals to live authentically. He believes that by reconnecting with your inner self and embracing your true identity, you can experience a more fulfilling

individuals living in London, Lisbon, Paris and Ibiza, the portraits represent a truly authentic, incredibly diverse, and

The display of illuminated, digital portraits can be found at Ilona Rose House in London’s buzzing Soho.
This collaboration is about owning your identity and embracing who you are,” says Louis.“It celebrates community connection and the power of positive relationships.
memo

WHY IS YOUR MENTAL HEALTH IMPORTANT?

With all team members Mental Health First Aid trained, staff wellbeing is a top priority at Murdock London. Recently, the team collaborated with the NHS for its ‘London, you good?’ campaign, offering wellbeing advice to 18–25-year-old Londoners. We sat down with the Murdock barbers to discuss why looking after your own mental health is so crucial…

Nothing is more important than mental health; it is the cornerstone of your overall fitness and wellbeing. Equally important however, is finding the support to aid you when you are struggling; being completely honest with yourself – and accepting you’re in need of help –demonstrates great strength of character.

Historically, people have been scared to talk about their mental health due to the lack of support available, but there are now a lot more resources on offer. Your mental health should always be your top priority, regardless of social stigmas.

Whether you’re a barber, banker, barista or baker, your mental health is just as important as your physical health. If you break your arm you’d go to A&E, why should your mind be treated any

Struggling in silence can have hugely negative consequences; your negative thoughts can culminate into days, weeks or months of isolated suffering. When on the path to becoming the best version of yourself, speaking to someone that is Mental Health First Aid trained is absolutely critical.

Having a good mental health can offer a positive mindset on all of the challenges that life throws your way. As I’m sure we’d all agree, the best decisions are made when thinking clearly and rationally.

It is estimated that 1 in 6 people in the past week experienced a common mental health problem.

HOW CAN MENTAL HEALTH BE IMPROVED IN THE WORKPLACE?

This month, Pro Hair caught up with the founder of Open Chair (www.open-chair.uk), WILL BROWN. With a mission to provide hair professionals with the tools to communicate openly about mental health, here are Will’s top tips to improving wellbeing…

● BE OPEN! Allowing yourself to be open will create an opportunity for a better understanding of yourself, as well as those around you. Showing transparency and allowing yourself to be vulnerable is the ultimate strength; use the communication skills you learn throughout your career and through courses such as Open Chair: Mental Health First Aid training to unlock the door for an honest, open conversation.

● CHECK IN ON YOURSELF and your own mental health. As stylists, it can sometimes feel like we take on the world’s problems every single day. As a result, we can forget to check in on ourselves. Ask yourself if you’re ok. If you need to, remind yourself that it’s ok no to be ok and help is always out there.

● CHECK IN ON THE PEOPLE AROUND YOU. Recognising the signs that a client or colleague is going through troubled times is one of the most important aspects of improving mental well-being in the workplace. Using the tools you have learnt, you would be able to recognise and identify mental health issues and learn how to approach the subject with your

peers. This may be a delicate subject, but it has the potential to save a life!

● MAKE ROOM FOR DOWNTIME. As much as we love our jobs, we must remember to find time to switch off and allow our minds to decompress. Have you thought about exercise? Going to the cinema? Spending an hour at the driving range? Meeting up with friends? Having a family day out? Meditation? There are so many things you can do to allow your mind to escape the sometimes-arduous task of looking after everyone else. Many of these activities actually give our brain the dopamine and serotonin boost we need to function at a happier and healthier level.

● REFLECT. It is vital to be able to pull yourself away from your day-to-day column and reflect on everything. Imagine you are looking in on your life from above; use this birds-eye view to reflect on the type of day you have had or consider the way you have dealt with a situation. From this, we can learn to be the best version of ourselves –for us and for everyone around us.

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Anxiety and depression have been estimated to cause one-fifth of days lost from work in Britain.

BOSSIN’ itwith

A CUSTOMISED CONSULTANCY SERVICE

Back for 2023, salon business expert Liz McKeon has relaunched one of her best-selling courses, Start Your Own Business: Mystery Client Shopping.Designed for team managers who are keen to maintain quality in their business, the course demonstrates ways to increase turnover by improving client satisfaction.

As a customised consultancy service, this two-day programme will enable you to know how it truly feels to be a client in your business. You will learn that attention to detail is paramount and constructive feedback should be given in every area of service – from the initial booking call to the close of sale. Applications can now be made at: www.rdr.link/HAI003

Old School

eliminate the restrictions of online training, Anne’s self-proclaimed ‘old school’ method of ‘real life, hands-on’ education encourages participants

another at a venue of their choosing. Featuring six categories covering a and how to book can be found at:

This one-day session will demonstrate how to take trending moments from social media and turn them into relevant and profitable salon services through a combination of live demonstrations and practical sessions.

To book onto the course, head to: www.rdr.link/HAI005

achievements of 100 individuals.

In her current role, Caroline acts as a conduit between our industry and the government. She is instrumental within the hair and beauty sector across the UK and strives to be the driving force behind the development of standards, quality and guidance to support the value and recognition of our industry as a whole.

business

COLOUR TREND QUESTIONS , WITH OSMO AMBASSADOR JAKE NUGENT

What is a candlelit brunette?

It’s a shade that uses very subtle babylights to lift dark hair and create a warm glow. By using this technique and

Why do you think this colour will be popular in 2023?

Us hairdressers love a new name to call our

What are the best colour techniques for the candlelit brunette?

The best way to achieve the candlelit brunette look is to

colour

inspiration for my look. I created a clear separation of colours, selected from opposite ends of the colour spectrum, emphasising a contrast. From deep violet nothing is meant to work

almost grey/silver tone –with no brassiness in sight!

I then dried the hair into spikes, this created elevation and would allow the colour I was about to apply to stand out even further.

Next, I toned the ends of the spikes with BLONDMEToning Lilac and Ice to finish off the look,

Lavender hues are so popular right now. They look beautiful when paired with these clean blonde, ashy tones – it allows the colour to really pop!

Smith. “It’s a shade that offers much-needed escapism that

through ASP’s Colour Dynamics: Lavender. This ultra-vibrant, semi-permanent colour range works efficiently to create a variety of spring-ready pastels on pre-lightened hair. Crafted with Colour Lock Technology to ensure beautiful, fade-resistant results, Colour Dynamics are also composed of a Shea Butter and Argan Oil formula to condition, strengthen and protect. www.rdr.link/HAI006

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Sheree Thompson, ASP UK Ambassador

Powered by the Sea, Harnessed by Science

Revlon Professional introduces an all-new transformation for its thalassotherapy inspired Eksperience range. Following new codes of luxury, the range offers an elite in-salon experience based on the power of sea, science and senses. Since Revlon believes that minimising our impact on the

planet is a never-ending journey, all Eksperience products have been eco-conceived with a commitment to the environment and to delivering the cleanest products possible, whilst still guaranteeing professional performance and outstanding hair results.

www.rdr.link/HAI007

Sustainable

memo

A Sustainable Seal of Approval

As part of its continued mission to cater towards hairstylists as well as the planet, amika has announced its B Corp accreditation. With an industry-leading score of 99.2, the certification illustrates the brand’s high standard of excellence for social and environmental responsibility. In 2022, amika also received Climate Neutral certification –this involved measuring its greenhouse gas emissions, purchasing eligible verified carbon credits to offset that footprint, and implementing plans to reduce emissions in its pledge to be Net Zero by 2030.

COLOUR A CONSCIENCE

This month, IT&LY is relaunching its extensive spectrum of permanent hair colour, Aquarely. Having undergone a cleaner, greener makeover, the range is now resorcinol free with biodegradable fragrances and recyclable packaging. The upgraded range will consist of 95 shades and seven booster shades, and scores 80% on the natural ingredients index.

www.rdr.link/HAI008

TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS

With sustainability becoming an increasingly important part of everyday life, it is important to make eco-consciousness a focal point of doing business too. We caught up with Ross Jones, ASP Sales Manager UK/IRL, to learn how ASP have integrated sustainable priorities within its business strategy:

“When it comes to sustainability here at ASP, we are committed to supporting our own DNA strategy – DNA standing for Defend Nature Always. In fact, each and every decision we make is based on our commitment to making the world a more beautiful place; it’s in our DNA.”

“Continuing to strive for better within the industry, we hold a strict ‘no animal testing’ policy for all ingredients, formulations or

finished products. With a significant number of our products already 90% or more naturally derived, we are continuing to enhance this sector with recyclable packaging as well as further sustainable initiatives as we move through the year.”

“However, we are fully aware that sustainability doesn’t just stop with packaging and ingredients, and many other factors within our brand are contributing to the shift in ‘progressive sustainability’ within the industry. This includes energy and water-saving initiatives, as well as aiding clients more with hair maintenance between appointments.”

WOMAN TO WOMAN

In this series, we invited Karoliina to catch up with some of the established and emerging female role models that are breaking boundaries, challenging perceptions and providing incredible inspiration for our future generation of stylists. Enjoy her in-depth chats on life, work and all things HAIR!

This issue, Karoliina sits down with world-renowned, award-winning stylist, ANTOINETTE BEENDERS

KAROLIINA SAUNDERS is a salon owner, educator, session stylist, multi-award winner, Revlon Creative Artist and current Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Her love of fashion has taken her all over the world through a jam-packed line-up of stage, photographic, editorial and session work, as well as working backstage at all the major Fashion Weeks.

@karoliinasaunders

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER, HOW LONG YOU HAVE BEEN HAIRDRESSING AND HOW DID YOU GET TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY?

I have been in the hairdressing industry for over 40 years, and I still love every single minute of it. My life’s passion is imagery and my journey in hairdressing has been a natural evolution to becoming a creative director.

I started my career in Holland at the age of 14 as a Saturday girl (making coffee, washing hair and sweeping the floor). At 19, I moved to London and became an apprentice at the Trevor Sorbie salon in Covent Garden. After six months of re-training, I ended up teaching and travelling all over the world representing

the Sorbie brand.

In 1995 I won my first BHA, Avant Garde hairdresser of the year, followed by London Hairdresser of the Year in 1996 and 1997.

That same year, I met the awe-inspiring Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda, and I decided to join him on his crusade of changing the world using natural products.

In 1999, I was nominated as the first solo female British Hairdresser of the Year, but it wasn’t until 2004 that I took home the title.

In 2005, I moved to NYC to be the Global Creative Director for Aveda, a brand-new role that I had to quickly learn. I was responsible for graphic design, packaging design, brand copy, store design and all imagery for a global brand –it was a brand-new experience for me! I loved the journey and had the most amazing opportunities at Aveda in this role –from photographing campaigns in India to travelling to Nepal multiple times to support female communities. I also had the honour to be taught by Mr. Leonard Lauder himself on brand equity, an invaluable lesson from an industry pioneer.

In 2019, my role evolved to get back to my artistry roots. I am currently Senior Vice President of Aveda Global Artistry. This role gives me the opportunity to mentor the up-and-coming talent in our network, as well as get my hands back into the industry that I love.

Throughout the years, I have worked incredibly hard and I’m entirely grateful for all the experiences I have had. Our industry is one of the few that can take you to wherever your heart desires.

WOW, WHAT A CAREER! WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ADVICE TO ANYONE WANTING TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL EDUCATOR?

Listen, be humble and share your passion –there is nothing more attractive and inspiring than that.

IT’S BEEN AN ALMOST CAREER-LONG PARTNERSHIP WITH AVEDA. WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE THE BRAND?

I have a saying: “I am part of Aveda and Aveda is part of me.” Having represented the brand for over 25 years, I truly feel

Aveda is unique in its approach to business. Not only do we have products that prioritise sustainable and naturally derived ingredients, we also have a strong focus on ingredient transparency and innovations in packaging.

HOW IMPORTANT A ROLE DO YOU THINK SOCIAL MEDIA PLAYS IN OUR INDUSTRY?

Social media is imperative to your career in our industry. Whether you like to attract new clients or inspire fellow artists, it is an incredible megaphone to share your work. Social media is the stage of this decade and if you snooze you lose.

INCREDIBLY WISE WORDS. WITH SUCH AN ACCOMPLISHED CAREER ALREADY, HOW DO YOU CONTINUE TO FIND NEW INSPIRATION FOR YOUR WORK?

I love researching concepts. For my last collection, I collaborated with hair artists that I have admired for quite some time, team X-presion. Just like music artists, I thought it would be interesting to collaborate on a photo shoot. Apart from gaining new friends, I am delighted with the outcome of our collection –our collaboration felt like a jam session of music legends, freestyling in the pure joy of creativity, wisdom and experience and venturing fearlessly into the future.

WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR GREATEST CAREER ACHIEVEMENT?

I am so grateful as I have many, but winning British Hairdresser of the Year was a highlight. Also winning awards outside of the hairdressing industry for store design, collections, video, printing and packaging design were proud career achievements. However, I think the ultimate achievement is being a female hairdresser that has broken the glass ceiling in a corporate environment. I think it’s invaluable for challenging yourself along with the exposure you receive.

DO YOU STILL TAKE AN ACTIVE PART IN COMPETITIONS?

Absolutely, I think entering award competitions keeps you on your toes and relevant, and it pushes you to do better every time.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUR 16-YEAR-OLD SELF?

When I was 16, I was still living in Holland and I had just started to work part-time in a salon while going to school for hairdressing. My advice would be: follow your gut and say “yes” to every opportunity that comes your way and be 100% your authentic self.

HOW DOES OUR INDUSTRY LOOK TO YOU RIGHT NOW?

I think it is changing rapidly with the influence of social media. While social media is an incredible way to gain awareness of your work, it is also important we find balance as artists and hang onto the integrity of our craftmanship in our content, and not just worry about follower counts.

HOW DO YOU THINK WE COULD MAKE OUR INDUSTRY MORE ATTRACTIVE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE TO JOIN?

By showcasing the incredible opportunities our profession has to offer.

Hairdressing is such a unique profession that cannot be easily replaced by computers. It can also serve as a steppingstone into other related professions. And the best thing of all, you can impact people’s lives.

OUTSIDE OF HAIRDRESSING, HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOUR SELFCARE AND WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE WIND-DOWN?

I live in the middle of a forest on a lake, I have an incredible husband and two adorable Jack Russells, they mean the world to me. When I get home, I forget about everything and often pinch myself, appreciating my privileged situation.

WHO ARE THE HAIR HEROES YOU LOOK UP TO?

The Aveda Artist Network, they are my ultimate hair heroes! Most are stylists/colourists behind the chair –they not only make their clients LOOK beautiful but make them FEEL beautiful too. It’s a gift!

WHAT IS YOUR TREND PREDICTION FOR THIS YEAR?

I think nowadays, authenticity is key. Trend wise, change up the parting –you can’t go wrong.

CAN YOU SUM UP THE BEST THINGS ABOUT OUR INDUSTRY IN THREE WORDS.

Passion – Opportunity –Future ANTOINETTE, YOU ARE TRULY AN INSPIRATION, THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!

interview 21

HAIR ME OUT

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW BARTON EXPLORES THE VALUE OF CONTINUAL PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) AND ITS BENEFITS TO SUCCESS AND WORK HAPPINESS.

Being happy in our workplace depends on many factors - the surroundings, the flow of work, the dynamics of working with others and absolute confidence in delivering core skills. There is also great reward for both the stylist and the salon as a whole when regular training is conducted, especially when it’s in line with the business strategy.

The salon is the heart of community life, with barbershops and salons supporting local economies and high streets –interestingly, over 26% of salons can

be found in villages.

My career started in a village salon and I’m ever grateful for the vision that the salon owner had to invest in CPD for her team –particulary knowing the value that training people has on increasing productivity and customer satisfaction.

Salon businesses were disproportionately affected by Covid, and many have fallen away or are still challenged by cash flow issues after being closed for 140 days in 2020 –not to mention the shift in work patterns and the nation’s increased energy costs etc. However, it’s not all doom and gloom, and many hairdressers are now seeing growth. Whilst online training has grown incredibly, reports also suggest that live, face-to-face education is still preferred.

Making an investment in competence-based, tailored training brings many benefits.  As a salon owner/manager, I have always made the following three considerations to ensure I invest in the right training for my team, and it’s what guides me now as an educator delivering my BARTON

UK.

1 2 3

HOW WILL

THE TRAINING BE COST EFFECTIVE?

Stylists and apprentices are more motivated to learn when the benefits of the training are personalised to their needs, this means their own salon is often the ideal location. Upskilling in areas that require refreshment or inspiration reduces the costs caused by a lack of confidence or ability. Cost effectiveness can easily be measured by the buzz created by training and new approaches to delivery of services. Being on home turf has the added benefit of the whole team receiving training –there are also no travel or accommodation costs. A salon is a fashion store and CPD is required to ensure professionals are up to date with trends and services.

WHY WILL THE TRAINING INCREASE EFFICIENCY?

When training is relevant to the salon’s unique needs, and respects the core values of the business, then it unites stylists and apprentices to feel supported –this then improves morale, service, and efficiency. CPD empowers people to upskill their game and deliver great work with more confidence.

HOW WILL THE TRAINING INSPIRE AND INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY?

Stylists and apprentices are much more competent in meeting their work objectives and goals when they have insight into the overall strategy of the business and how it impacts their working day. Knowing what work performance objectives are –either individual or for the team –brings measurable benefits. In-salon training also focuses on the needs of that salon’s team and its business strategy; when people feel invested in, there is a boost to job satisfaction and increased wellbeing at work.

In a service-orientated, ever-changing business landscape, there is no doubt of the value of CPD. The objective of all training should be to enable the learner to refocus, adapt old practices and feel valued, whatever their experience level.

Training is the lifeblood of the hairdressing industry and while we are navigating new economic challenges, there is still optimism: through training individuals to be the best they can be, hairdressing will continue to play its part in fashion, popular culture and local economies. Hairdressing is a treat for many and a necessity for others, and as a career it can be incredible rewarding when equipped with CPD. I love the work that I do presenting in-salon training, meeting the team and helping them to reach their goals. Ultimately, I love having a creative jam together to create beautiful hair.

If this feature has inspired you to think about a bespoke in-salon training session with me, contact @Andrew_barton_hair or @andrewbartonable.

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BESPOKE in-salon training across the Follow Andrew @Andrew_barton_hair  and @andrewbartonlondoneducation ABLE  Andrew is;  UK Creative Ambassador for salon only brand Keune. Creative Director Racoon Hair Extensions Honorary Ambassador The Hair & Barber Council Hairdresser Ambassador The Little Princess Trust

BRIDAL

THE EDIT

All thingsBride andBeautiful

Is it a good idea to offer special prices or package deals for wedding treatments?

All packages and prices should be tailored to each bride, ideally including a trial before the Big Day. I like to also include a timesheet for the day itself, this ensures everything is taken care of and means my bride doesn’t have anything to worry about. If you are able to, it is a fantastic idea to offer bridal beauty treatments within a combined package. This will save resources, time and hassle for both your team and your bride.

Do you showcase past reviews of your wedding treatments?

I have been very grateful to all my past brides leaving me such amazing reviews. However, the thing that helps most of all with

future bookings is attending wedding fairs. I like to attend as many fairs as I can throughout the year, which also opens up the opportunity to style bridal models for fashion shows too.

How do you make your wedding services a unique experience?

My aim is to make my bride and her party feel as special as they possibly can. I offer a very flexible time schedule, in which we can have complete privacy in the

salon to get the most out of the trial. I also offer hair extension services, meaning we can add length or thickness – or both – so nothing is off limits. Finally, I like to ensure that all the special moments are captured on the wedding day itself, carving out specific time for photo opportunities.

WE CAUGHT UP WITH SAM KERR, BRIDAL EXPERT AT JONATHAN ANDREW HAIR, ON THE LATEST TIPS AND TRICKS FOR A WEDDING-DAY WOW:
My aim is to make my bride and her party feel as special as they possibly can.

Wella’ s ‘ Bridal Hair’ Course

1 DAY / £315

From high-end glamour to bohemian brides, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to bridal hair – which means the demand and potential for versatile stylists is huge. Bridal Hair is an advanced course that teaches competent and experienced stylists how to create a couture bridal experience. If you’re a stylist already confident in styling, finishing, and putting hair up, then this course will enable you to become a true bridal hair specialist.

To book this course, visit: www.rdr.link/HAI009

Think Marilyn Monroe inspired vintage curls or waves. This is a glamorous and polished look, and would work for a traditional church wedding, hotel or country house. I like to do a gloss treatment the week before the wedding to give the hair a glass finish; this enhances the shine, smoothness and glamour.

StepbyStepdown theAisle

KERRY GALLIANO, WALKS US THROUGH HER GO-TO BRIDAL STYLE. THESE QUICK, SIMPLE STEPS RESULT IN A GORGEOUS FINAL LOOK THAT IS BOTH CREATIVE AND COMMERCIAL.

● Working with 2-inch sections in a diagonal angle, create a full turn with the stylers set at 160. Spray the section lightly with a strong hold spray and pull your hands through the hair to create a natural look to the curl.

● Hold your fingers wide like a large-tooth comb and pull loosely backwards below the crown area,

be sure to leave out the butterfly bangs. Stretch loosely over the gathered section and secure with a bungee band.

● Next, create separation through the right-hand section, again using your hand like a wide-tooth comb and leaving some loose curls at the face frame. Pull loosely backwards and lay this section over the top, securing with a bungee band to the opposite side.

● Repeat once more on the left-hand side, before puckering and pulling out the curls. To finish, pop in some bridal accessories of your choice.

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Brides mean Business

Pricing bridal services can be a challenge. Since the needs of each bridal party are entirely unique, there can be a varying level of work involved, so it is crucial to only price the service after the consultation.

Perfect bridal hair starts with a great consultation. Be sure to involve all of the staff that will be working on the client, as well as inviting the entire bridal party to the consultation too. It is key to book out plenty of time for this.

Style’ you’re on Camera !

A bride’s Big Day is full of excitement and trepidation – but it doesn’t need to be stressful. Ensure you’re giving her your best on the day with our tips on forward planning.

The consultation:

With a bridal consultation, you need to work backwards – ideally allowing for six to eight months before the big day. During the first appointment, ask to see images of her dress; if she’s wearing something low-cut, long, loose waves could be beautiful, but if she’s wearing a dress with an intricate neckline, a classic updo might be a better idea.

Image is everything:

As well as asking your bride to bring in images of looks she wants to try, it’s vital that she’s able to see how she might look from every angle. So, when it comes to your trial appointment, be sure to take images of each style from the front, back and both side profiles. This way, it’s one less thing for her to think about when she’s having her photograph taken throughout the day.

It’s all in the kit:

Once you have a full brief, it’s time to price the service and agree on timescales. You want your plan to be as detailed as possible, this will prevent your bride feeling stressed about her hair on the day.

Optimise your time on the big day. We always recommend that bridal clients come in the night before to get a shampoo and blow-dry. This ensures the hair is not too soft on the day, allowing us to style the hair perfectly. It’s a stress-free solution.

Once you know what look your bride is after, it’s important that you pack accordingly. There’s no point in taking extensions or hair pads if your bride has a pixie cut and won’t be wearing a veil, so having a look through your inventory early on could save you some valuable packing space. Your trial days are to narrow down exactly what you’ll need, but a few extra pieces could prove really handy when it comes to the big day itself.

DENMAN AMBASSADOR SHARON MALCOLM OFFERS HER EXPERT ADVICE ON THE BUSINESS ASPECTS OF BRIDAL SERVICES…
If she’s wearing something low-cut, long, loose waves could be beautiful, but if she’s wearing a dress with an intricate neckline, a classic updo might be a better idea.

Bright and Curly

PAMELA DOCHERTY (@PAMDOCHAIR)

TALKS US THROUGH ONE OF HER FAVOURITE BRIDAL STYLES:

Starting with freshly washed hair, I always make sure I use a treatment spray with a strong heat protectant. I then like to blow-dry the hair with my Alfa Italia Aurora, using the cool shot function for added shine.

I began curling the underneath section of the hair using the Alfa Italia Tropea, starting mid-way down from the end of the hair to retain as much length as I can. I never build up any particular root lift from the occipital bone, but I always leave a slight tail out and straight edge.

Moving up towards the crown whilst still warm, I pull the hair down to obtain more stretch in the curl and gain greater definition.

To give the style lift at the crown, I backcomb at the root and position my volume using long silver clips. This allows me to check that I’m happy with the balance, before going in with stronger kirby grips to hold it in place.

I tend to leave the front straight and undressed as I’ll lightly blast this section once more with the hairdryer, creating a more natural finish before going back in with the Tropea.

I bend the wand into those front pieces, teasing them out whilst they’re still warm. I complete the look by using a finishing spray on the individual strands.

MAKE ROOM FOR THE GROOM

GIULIANO DORE, WHO STARTED GET GROOMED MOBILE BARBERS AS A RESPONSE TO THE SURGE IN DEMAND FOR HOME HAIRCUTS AND BEARD TRIMS FOLLOWING LOCKDOWN, HAS RECENTLY SEEN A HUGE RISE IN WEDDING HAIRCUT PARTIES FOR MEN.

Wedding haircut parties involve a barber setting up in a groom’s home, surrounded by music, food and drinks, and individually cutting and styling the hair of all the groomsmen. For mobile businesses like Get Groomed, this new wedding trend is both lucrative and enjoyable.

Giuliano says: ‘I would advise all barbers to consult with their grooms first about the style they want. Remember, a dramatic change for a wedding day may not always be a good idea. In many ways, it might be better to restyle the hair a month or two before –this would mean the wedding cut is just a little tidy up, preventing any shocks for all parties involved.

A buzzcut is stylish on most people and suits men who want to look good for a formal occasion, however there is a danger of going too short too quickly. For those who want to look more stylish with a bit of panache, a pompadour may be the right answer.”

Get Groomed Mobile Barbers have qualified and skilled barbers operating in London, Birmingham and Manchester.

Find out more about Get Groomed Mobile Barbers here: www.rdr.link/HAI010

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This relaxed but elegant chignon is one of the most popular wedding styles as it fits most facial structures. It can be created as a knotted bun or regular bun, and a little looser than usual for a different and more elegant effect. A high bun is a great choice for a bride that has a high neckline, which can look particularly sleek when worn with a tiara or a comb.
CAROL RITCHIE, MATRIX ARTIST AMBASSADOR

Bringingbridalinspiration fromabroad... Beloved

Hair Alexander Kiryliuk

Make-up Miguel Silva

Styling Pronovias

Photography David Martínez

Headdress and accessories Carmen Font

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Shley Le

Hair Shelley Lane Styling Willow in White Photography Dan Thomas

FROM OUR TO YOURS

Br

Hair Jordan Gourley and Charlotte Fishwick, Jordan Charlotte Hair Lounge

Make-up Vicky Hedley

Styling Katy Quinn

Photography Laura Middleton

Bridal

Dresses Kate Fernley Bridal

Products Remi Cachet

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THE BUSINESS ofBrides

the fifth of our bridal series, Teresa Weller, Director of

, looks at how distilling seasonal runway bridal trends can position your business head and shoulders above the rest.

To work in bridal, you need to be a dedicated follower of fashion. I love trends, not only because the world of fashion excites and delights me, but because it’s important for my clients to recognise that I know what’s set to be hot (or more importantly, not) when it comes to their hair. I’m by no means suggesting that your bridal clients can’t have editorial control over their wedding day hair, however knowing the forthcoming trends in bridalwear, accessories, and (obviously) hair, marks you out as a leader in your field, ensuring your clients are in expert hands for their Big Day.

At thebridalhairartists.com, we’ve earned a reputation as the ‘trend translators’ –with many brides choosing us for our ability to take a trend and translate it specifically for their Big Day. However, just because a look rocks a runway doesn’t mean it’s suitable for every bride. Rather than using this as a reason to shy away from trend-led looks, the key is learning to translate and distill to give brides a wearable wedding day aesthetic in line with their very specific needs.

Here’s how:

■ EYES ON THE BRIDES: If you’re a bridal hairstylist looking for fresh inspiration from Bridal Fashion Week, online trend reports are a great place to start as they’ll condense the top trends. There is a whole host of resources quite literally at your fingertips, so make sure you keep on top of what’s hot. I subscribe to wwd.com, look at wgsn.com for global trend insights and keep a close eye on the forthcoming bridal calendar via fashionweekonline.com too.

■ THE LOOK OF LUXE: It’s important to consider just how ‘on trend’ your bride wants to be. Some brides want to fully embrace a runway look, but most are looking for looks and locks with longevity –something that references a new trend, but won’t date in photos. For a vision to align, consultation is key: the dress, location, and vibe of the day are unique to them, so work closely from the start to adapt a bridal trend and tailor it perfectly.

■ WEAR WITH BRIDE: I always tell my brides that being on trend and unique aren’t mutually exclusive. Runway trends can often be extreme versions of looks that aren’t so wearable in ‘real’ wedding day life. With this in mind, you need to translate rather than replicate, identifying core elements and fusing them into what your bridal clients are looking for. Identify what sets a particular trend apart, cherry-pick the elements that make it fresh, and use this as a reference (and your bride as a guide) for how you choose to translate it.

■ BRIDE VIBE: Across my 25 years of experience in both bridal hair and running my own salon, I’ve learned that it’s usually the smaller details that define a trend, so bear this in mind when you’re looking for fresh inspiration. For example, while a

chic chignon is set to be big for brides again this season, the way it’s worn has had a seasonal update. According to research from Etsy, sustainability is a key factor for 2023 brides, while Pinterest is seeing a surge in searches for orange, a nod to optimism, adventure, and creativity. With this in mind, many brides are looking to add real flowers to their look, or a pop of colourful embellishment that works in line with their theme.

While the essence of a look often remains the same each season, the way it’s styled and the vibe it exudes needs to

business
In
Teresa Weller Hair Art and thebridalhairartists.com

PHIL-ing

IN THE BL ANKS

Businessman, award-winning salon owner and creator of two top-selling haircare ranges, Phil Smith, helps to fill in any gaps in your business knowledge.

This issue… 5 things to CONSIDER ABOUT SELF-EMPLOYMENT

This is a hot topic! Whilst some salon owners base their entire business model on a self-employed team, others steer well clear of it. I was looking at it as an option again recently and came up with the same conclusion - it’s not something that works for me. Not only does it not work for me, I fail to see how it benefits the individual either. However, as ever, I’m all ears to hear your thoughts and other sides of the argument…

ONE BRAND VISION

I believe that when you build a team, your aim is to be stronger together. Successful businesses maintain consistency in their services and unite in one vision under one salon brand. When you take on a self-employed stylist, you need to think about how much of a priority your reputation will be to them personally. No one is disputing the standards of the self-employed, but damaging reviews can be hugely problematic for your business and if things go wrong, who fixes it?

SETTING STANDARDS

Will you fund training for a self-employed stylist that works in your salon? And if you don’t, can you guarantee their future development in the same way as you can with a team member? At Smith England, I make sure that everyone is motivated with opportunities for growth. Loyalty to my business is reciprocated with a commitment to their careers. Learning, training and development should be a continual process, but when you become self-employed, finding the time, the cash, and the motivation to invest in this side of your career can become a lower priority.

DOES IT MAKE FINANCIAL SENSE?

1 4 5 3 2 £

Let’s face it, when most people choose to go self-employed it’s for one of two reasons: freedom or greater financial reward. But honestly, do you achieve either? Working less hours or taking annual leave whenever you like may feel like a bonus, but don’t forget those hours not worked will be unpaid. There’s no sick pay or company benefits and there are plenty of additional costs besides. Yes, you may feel like you’re putting more profit in your pocket, but what about the accountant to file your tax return, indemnity insurances, pensions, equipment, and training –this will all suddenly need to be covered by you. Not as appealing now, right?

HR HEADACHES AND TAX

You need a watertight contract to avoid any dispute or expensive legal action if things go wrong. After extensive chats with an HR consultant, I’m all too aware of the pitfalls. Be careful that your chair renter isn’t slowly heading out the door as a freelancer with a whole load of your clients in tow. You also need to make sure that any arrangements don’t fall foul of the HMRC rules. If a self-employed person in your salon appears to have similar rights as an employee, you could be liable for backdated tax claims and benefits.

THE GREY AREAS

There are many other big and small details you need to work out before you sign up to an agreement. Think about how you will measure and monitor how much stock your renter is using for colour services? How will you manage and incentivise retail sales? Of course, you’d need to cover all these aspects in a rental agreement, because trust me, it all gets complicated and controversial if any detail is overlooked. Equally, you can start to look pedantic if you don’t work out clear boundaries on what is and isn’t permitted under the agreement.

HANDLING COMPLAINTS

Part 2

Continuing on from last issue, Content Creator Conor JamesDoyle of Conor James Education delves into how to deal with tricky situations.

Last month we discussed how to prevent complaints and manage expectations through language. Now, in the second part of his series, Conor looks at offering solutions, dealing with complaints, and understanding when it’s time to say goodbye.

LANGUAGE:

1.When the result is technically strong but different to what you planned, avoid using incriminating language that alludes to error.

2.When there is a technical error, call it, explain it and fix it. If they don’t have time, bring them back as soon as you can. In all the time I’ve been hairdressing, I’ve never had a client complain when I flag an error on my part.

3.Don’t panic. Often when things don’t go right, we go into meltdown mode; it’s like our brain is emptied of all technical knowledge, and we just start mixing random concoctions. If something has gone very left field, learn to know when you’ve reached yourlimit. It’s always much better to stay calm and take time out to think. Often, the solution pops into my head when I’m not under pressure.

4.Normalise review appointments. This is my favourite tactic to safeguard against complaints. The key to reviewing appointments is clear boundaries; your purpose is simply to refine the result you got on that day.

WHEN A COMPLAINT DOES HAPPEN:

Gratitude. For most people, saying you’re not happy with a service is intimidating, so I begin byexpressing thanks for them feeling comfortable enough to share.

Prompt. Be fast in addressing the issue. Even if you have no space in your column, try to get them in asap to make a plan. Make sure they know you have listened openly, not defensively.

Be honest with yourself; is this the result of an error or sloppy work? If so, be honest and clean it up.

Recap your consultation. This not only safeguards you from a client who might just want to change their mind, but gives an opportunity for you both to figure out where the miscommunication happened.

Document the issues, this is crucial for clarity, but also to protect yourself. Clients often do not anticipate you to remember specifics. A respectful amount of challenging what they really want is a good thing in my mind. We are here to provide the professional service clients request; not for them to try on different styles or colours for free. You’re perfectly within your rights to remind them of their initial requests. If you met the brief and they just don’t like it –and no miscommunication or technical faults are evident –it’s not a complaint.

WHEN IS IT TIME TO LET A CLIENT GO?

Repeat complaints from the same client is a nightmare. Protect your space. It’s expensive both financially and emotionally. It’s not always that simple to just axe a nagging customer...

The key I’ve found is to make it as impersonal as possible. This is why documenting is SO important; you can’t argue with facts. “So you’ve been with me six times, and including today, four of those times you haven’t been happy. That’s a 25% satisfaction rate, which to me says we just might not be a good professional fit. It’s really important to me that you have somebody you can be happy with and that I feel like I can meet a client’s needs. For those reasons, I’m going to recommend these places…. “

It can be awkward as hell, and might even keep you up for a few nights, but I can guarantee you’ll feel 10 tons lighter when you realise they’re no longer lurking in your column and dragging your whole week down!

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business

CLIENT CONTENTMENT

Bladon Moriarty is the Salon Manager for multi-award-winning London hotspot, Not Another Salon. With the business renowned for its exceptional colour work and first class service, Bladon believes that creating a culture of 100% client satisfaction is the backbone of their success. We spoke to him about how the Not Another Salon team have pulled together to achieve complete client satisfaction, and here are his top tips for replicating this…

BE TRANSPARENT AND COMMUNICATE.

We are in the service industry, so it is our priority that clients are 100% satisfied; one of the key elements to achieving this is transparency. There is no hiding anything and that way, it is much more realistic to meet a client’s expectation. We are very transparent about our charges, telling all clients their costs in advance to avoid any shock. We are also completely transparent about the products we use and the service that we will be doing –having that knowledge is key for client satisfaction.

MANAGING EXPECTATIONS.

There can be times when a client expects us to be able to achieve something on an unrealistic budget or time frame. There’s nothing wrong with explaining to a client why something is not possible. In fact, I believe clients leave far more satisfied when the situation is explained truthfully; give them all the information they need and let them make the decision.

COMMUNICATE AS A TEAM.

Client satisfaction results when they feel they have a team of experts working on their hair; it’s about being knowledgeable and having the best education possible. Sometimes stylists can get nervous about bouncing off each other, but communication within the team is vital. Have the confidence to ask other experts in the salon their opinion, this makes clients feel incredibly important. We are constantly empowering our team to ask each other for advice.

MAKE SURE YOU KEEP MEASURING CLIENT SATISFACTION.

SURPRISE AND DELIGHT EVERY TIME.

We try to surprise and delight our clients every time they walk through the door. Whilst it is not that hard to delight a client on their first visit, those extras can become the expected norm, so it’s important to think about how you can go above and beyond each time. The little touches and added extras are so easy to implement, but they really make all the difference. It doesn’t take long to put a little effort into personalising your service –for example, I have clients who are gluten free and so always make sure I have gluten free biscuits in for them.

ALWAYS HAVE A CONSULTATION.

A new client will always have a consultation, but it’s important to do this with clients that have been coming in the salon for years too. We always start with a conversation on how they are enjoying their hair and is there anything they want to change. Never assume the client still loves their hair.

Our client retention rate and constant communication gives us a clear indication of how satisfied they are. Also, we ask clients to leave reviews which are always looked at closely. We don’t try to hide anything, and will admit if we don’t think their hair is quite right because we want them to be happy. If we have any concerns at all, we will give them a call after their visit to check in on the hair.

HAVE THE RIGHT PROFESSIONAL PARTNERS IN PLACE.

When you have the right tech, processes and products in place, the running of the business is so much smoother. One thing that has really helped our business is bringing in Colourstart to skin test our clients. We started this at the end of lockdown and it really has made a significant positive difference to the way we run our business. It is one less thing to worry about –the responsibility of skin testing is taken away from me and the client controls everything from their app. It also allows us as a company to focus more on client satisfaction.

HOW CAN WE TRUST INFLUENCERS?

Love them or loathe them, influencers are here to stay – for the moment anyway. So, who are they and should you be using them for your business?

I’d describe influencers as people with a reputation of authority or expertise in a particular area, who then use that authority to engage with large numbers of social media followers.

Depending on their notoriety, influencers will have an established personal brand; actively post engaging, entertaining, and informative content in a niche area; attract a fairly sizeable following of fans on social media and leverage their authority to influence their followers’ purchasing decisions.

We started working with influencers in 2011, several months before we started using Instagram. At Neville, we’ve always been fortunate to have a lot of celebrities coming in, so dealing with influencers wasn’t a problem for us. We are undoubtedly confident in our service as we have always been at the forefront of innovation and fashion for our designated niche market; influencers were a consequence of this.

Over the years, wehave tried to work with them in various ways. Currently, we offer an exclusivity contract for six months. We request a specific number of posts and stories, and they have a number of visits booked into our salon. We always evaluate the costs versus what they actually bring to the salon, and frequently assess whether or not the influencer partnership is bringing in new clients.

If you find the correct person, an influencer can be very good for your brand. However, big celebrity influencers will often not give you anything apart from making your brand aspirational. Sadly, ‘aspirational’ does not fill your salon with new clients. In my opinion, micro-influencers are much better. They have a more solid voice, and their reach is genuine from people that can afford their lifestyle. Choose micro-influencers that have the same values as you, that represent the same niche market and that are real. You must choose how you want your brand to be perceived.

Brands take time to research the right influencers. These

influencers have their following –which is built up in a specific niche market –by creating interesting content that it is relevant to the category. This means their audience has one thing in common, they’re all interested in that niche. So, when brands launch a look through niche influencers, it reaches the specific type of audience they need to reach.

At Neville, we are juggling different ways of reaching our clients and we don’t believe in using one medium only. Nearly a year ago we lost our Instagram account with 40K followers. It was heart-breaking but showed me that first, we cannot put all our eggs in one basket and secondly, that we do not own our online presence –especially on social media. One medium we do own is our own website, but for some reason it doesn’t get used as much anymore. We send newsletters, we write blog posts, we use LinkedIn and Facebook. We also send clients check-in messages to see if their service was ok. We reward our clients for the number of visits (not the money spent in the salon) with discounts and offers.

We always run our marketing and social media on the perception I get as a client. I don’t wholly believe in influencers, they do not look like their photos, and most of the time they are too young to understand the struggle of an older woman, but still feel they can talk about anti-aging products. Also, they tend to lean towards the brand that gives more to them rather than the functionality of the services or products themselves. And don’t forget that most people have now woken up to the idea that influencers are getting paid to push products!

In saying this, we are still using influencer marketing as part of our strategy, but only very few, key influencers –the rest are paying clients who are giving us lots of publicity at the moment through word of mouth. As this is not paid, it is more real, more effective and more organic. It might take longer, but it is also longer-lasting and certainly more impactful than using an influencer. My advice is this: get them paying and you will attract a different type of client.

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business
Elena Lavagni of Neville Hair and Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel gives her opinion…
“Choose micro-influencers that have the same values as you, that represent the same niche market and that are real.”

STYLIST Vs CYBORG

ChatGPT, the AI Chatbot, has everyone talking to it, causing a stir due to its exceptional ability to replicate human writing – but is it capable of the high level of insight and knowledge of a trained hairdresser? Here, we pitch the savvy cyborg against some of our expert contributors in different areas of the industry.

This month, we have Suzie McGill, Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International. The subject is: ‘Catering for different hair textures as a hair professional.’

Everybody is born with a specific hair texture, whether that be straight, wavy, curly or textured. Being able to analyse and understand these different hair types is so important as a hairdresser; not only will you be able to achieve the best possible outcome for your client, you will also be able to provide the correct advice when it comes to at-home care and product recommendations.

As oils produced by the scalp take longer to reach the ends of the hair, curly hair does not retain as much moisture as straight hair. With this in mind, further care should be taken to hydrate curlier hair types, allowing it to look its best whilst also avoiding damage and dryness. Conditioning masks and leave-in creams should therefore be used weekly on curly hair, these work efficiently to provide an extra dose of nourishment.

Wavy hair is quite different in that it’s more prone to oiliness due to the hair lying closer to the head. As a result, more lightweight products should be used to avoid the hair looking or feeling overly oily. Wavy hair is also prone to frizz however, so hydration is still required to ensure frizz and flyaways remain at bay.

Products like salt sprays, gels and mousses are great for enhancing the hair’s natural texture and adding further definition. Heat protection sprays and weightless leave-in conditioning creams are also a great choice. Always take great care when working with more-textured hair types and use a comb instead of a harsh brush when helping create your style.

Hair professionals, such as hairstylists and barbers, can cater to different textures of hair by understanding the unique properties of each hair type and using appropriate products and techniques to achieve the desired results. Here are some ways they can do this:

Use the right products: Each hair type requires specific products to maintain its health and appearance. For example, curly and coily hair typically need more moisture, while straight hair may require products to add volume.

Adjust styling techniques: Different textures require different styling techniques to achieve the desired look. For example, using a diffuser on curly hair can help enhance the curls, while straightening products and tools can help create a sleek look on straight hair.

Customise haircuts: Different hair textures require different types of haircuts to look their best. For example, layers can help enhance natural curls, while blunt cuts work well on straight hair.

Consider heat styling carefully: Using heat styling tools on certain hair types, such as curly or coily hair, can lead to damage and breakage. Be sure to use heat protectant products and adjust the temperature of the tools accordingly.

Overall, catering to different textures of hair requires a deep understanding of each hair type and the specific needs that come with it.

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ph
Can you explain how hair professionals can cater for different textures of hair?

rainbow room internatio

Hair and Styling Rainbow Room International Uddingston Photography Laurence Conway

onal

sport lux

The inspiration for this collection was real girls wearing cool cuts and colours and just ‘doing them’! They did their own makeup and brought their own clothes, whilst the Rainbow Room International Uddingston team did the hair. A true collaboration!

JOICO

EMEA CREATIVE ART TEAM

tempted texture by

From ice platinum through to rich chocolate, bold texture and showstopping shapes ensure these looks stand out. Creating a capsule of wearable, consumer-focused looks, this collection is a nod to current salon trends and iconic looks that never go out of style.

Hair Sevda Durukan, Alberto Di Domenico, Daniel Spiller Make-up Katie Moore Styling Ellen Spiller Photography Jamie Blanshard Creative direction Bruno Marc Giamattei

OSiS

Hair Tyler Johnston, Daniel Gryszke, Farah Naz

Hair Colourist Grace Dalgleish

Photography Raffaele Cariou

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. DON’T WAIT, HYDRATE!

Centred around its new, sustainably sourced conditioning ingredient, Maracuja Oil, the upgraded Bond Repair range from Alterna focuses on deep hydration. Hydrated hair is stronger, less prone to breakage and looks healthy and happy. Used together, the newly reformulated Bond Repair Shampoo and Conditioner protect and repair damaged hair, whilst the moisturising Masque delivers 160% more smoothness.

www.rdr.link/HAI011

2. NO FUSS, JUST HANDSOME

Designed to define style, Murdock London has released the latest additions to its range of grooming products, the Textured Hair Oil and Textured Hair Cream.Specifically designed for textured hair, the oil offers a huge boost to hair elasticity, curl retention and leaves hair with a natural healthy sheen, whilst the cream contains Red Sea Moss for seriously charged-up hydration.

www.rdr.link/HAI012

3. AN ANTI-FRICTION

FORMULA

Reduce static, frizz and breakage whilst drying hair efficiently with the new Hair Turban Towels from Iles Formula. The fast-drying, extra-absorbent microfibre towels offer a simple solution to drying hair without friction, whilst also being luxuriously soft.

www.rdr.link/HAI013

4. TITANIUM STRENGTH

As part of its entirely customisable hero grooming range, BaByliss PRO has released the Titanium Foil Shaver. Tailored for precision and blending with a robust metal design, the hypoallergenic foils give a close cut, bump-free fade finish.

www.rdr.link/HAI014

5. READY FOR A REPAIR?

Introducing the new Ultimate Repair Range from Wella Professionals, a skincare-inspired, four-step haircare regime that delivers shine, strength and smoothness. Thanks to the patented technology combining Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Omega-9, this holistic solution rebuilds bonds inside and replenishes the hair outside too.

www.rdr.link/HAI015

6. THE ULTIMATE ARMOUR

The latest innovation from its Metal Detox range, L’Oréal Professional Paris has launched the Professional High Protection Cream.Crafted with Glicoamine –a patent molecule small enough to neutralise metal inside the hair fibre – the leave-in cream protects from UV-induced damage, heat and eliminates copper build-up that dulls and dries hair.

www.rdr.link/HAI016

4 2 5 3 6 1

7. BRASS BE GONE

Neutralise brassy tones with the new Blue Shampoo and Mask from Rapture Hair Extensions.Suitable for both blonde and brunette shades, the restorative duo also functions to restore hydration, leaving the hair neutralised, softer and more manageable.

www.rdr.link/HAI017

8. ALL ABOUT THAT BOND

L’ANZA has released two brand-new vegan products, engineered to restore strength, resilience and shine through rebuilding the hair’s broken bonds. With a powerful blend of Peptides, Linseed oil, Chia seed oil and Panthenol, the Keratin Healing Oil Rapid Bond Reconstructor and Bond Smoothing Styler are crafted to rebuild broken bonds while providing nourishing repair.

www.rdr.link/HAI018

9. PLAYING IN THE BIG LEAGUES

Following the successful launch of its CHROMOPLEX regime, OSMO has now released its Bond Shampoo and Conditioner in a larger backwash litre size. The range is designed to strengthen, repair and hydrate, whilst also prolonging colour life.

www.rdr.link/HAI019

10. FIGHT AGAINST THE FRIZZ

The newest innovation from K18 tackles frizz from a holistic perspective – optimising the traditional oil format to deliver damage control. The molecular repair hair oil is a biotech-powered, weightless oil that strengthens while it smooths for immediate and long-term frizz control.

www.rdr.link/HAI020

11. UNLEASH THE LASH

Olaplex has launched the newest innovation within its Bond Building Technology, LASHBOND Crafted with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and Biotin, the lightweight serum promotes the look of longer, thicker, stronger and healthier lashes, as well as fostering a better environment for long-term lash retention.

www.rdr.link/HAI021

12. DETOX DESERVING

Introducing the Tea Tree Special Detox from Paul Mitchell. Including the Kombucha Rinse and Foaming Salt Scrub, the range promises to leave the scalp feeling soothed, refreshed and completely detoxed. Formulated with skin-balancing properties, the products help to exfoliate dead skin, remove build up and balance oil.

www.rdr.link/HAI022

13. A VANISHING ACT

Offer an immaculately clean finish, with the Vanish Foil Shaver from WAHL.The innovative suspension system allows the cutting bars to move independently with a razor-close shave of 0.5mm and 100+ minute run time.

www.rdr.link/HAI023

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6 12 11 13 9 8 7 10

BONDED BY BLONDE

JOICO’S NEWLY ENHANCED BLONDE LIFE COLLECTION BUILDS BONDS FOR STRONG BLONDES. THE COLLECTION CATERS FOR ALL YOUR SALON NEEDS, WITH NEW PRODUCTS, NEW PACKAGING, AND GREAT NEW IMAGERY.

NEW BALAYAGE LIGHTENER

Granting great lift and creative freedom, the power of Blonde Life Lightening Powder with the precision of Kaolin Clay comes together in the new Blonde Life Balayage Lightener, lifting hair up to 7+ levels in a single application.

● Soft clay formula that stays put when lifting.

● Stays moist and does not transfer when processing.

● Balayage and freehand painting techniques become stunningly simple and speedy.

NEW BLONDE LIFE DEMI GLOSS SHADES

The versatile Blonde Life Demi Gloss shades allow you to tone and customise pre-lightened hair with seven stunning shades you can mix and match to your clients’ needs.

● Tones, glazes and glosses, helping refresh dull, brassy blondes.

● Ideal viscosity for drip-free bottle application.

● Leaves hair looking luminous and shiny.

● Intermixable shades for customisable results in one step.

● Available in popular 8N, 10N, 9SB, 10SB, 9V, 10V & CLEAR.

LET’S LOOK INSIDE…

NEW COCONUT OIL DEVELOPERS

Mix some Coconut Oil into the blonding process with three NEW Blonde Life Developers –formulated to work in harmony with all Blonde Life lighteners and toners to leave hair feeling soft and hydrated.

● Easy-to-mix, spreadable, creamy consistency.

● Available in 5 Volume, 10 Volume, and 20 Volume.

● Gives hair a beautiful, smooth look and soft feel.

NEW BLONDE LIFE PACKAGING...

The current 1lb and 2lbPowder Lighteners have changed from pouches into easy-open, easy-to-stack canisters. With a more sustainable profile, they are packaged in 100% recycled fiber paperboard. The Crème Lightener is transitioning from the current 8.5oz tube to a handy 10.5oz size.

With Blonde Life’s innovative formulas – developed with bondbuilding Arginine, Tamanu and Monoi Oils and Coconut Oil – hair can be lifted quickly and confidently with strong, shiny-looking results.

● To give blonde hair the VIP treatment it deserves and demands, all Blonde Life products contain a signature blend of essential fatty acids, including Monoi and Tamanu Oils.

● Bond-Building Arginine: This signature ingredient can be found in all Blonde Life Lighteners and Toners including: Blonde Life Lightening Powder, Crème Lightener, Balayage Lightener, Demi Gloss, and Quick Tone Liqui-Crème Toner

● Coconut Oil: The new Blonde Life Developers are formulated with Coconut Oil to help hair look smooth and feel soft and hydrated.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE NEW JOICO RANGE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAI024

colour close-up

mix + match

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’s core styling range, OSiS, has been revamped to fully embrace self-expression and individual styling.

With a modern and more intuitive assortment featuring beloved heroes and must-have innovations, everything is packaged in a new design, yet with the same reliable performance that has been trusted for over 20 years.

+ Progressive and intuitive selection.

+ Inclusive and unique design.

+ More sustainable, with improved recyclability.

+ Primarily vegan formulas, free from animal-derived ingredients (25 out of 28 are vegan).

SO, WHAT’S NEW OSiS?

With a modern and inclusive design that is full of character, each range now sports a stylish matte finish and a fresh colour revamp that allows for easy differentiation between products as well as relevance to all genders. The original, iconic elements are still prominent, allowing the perfect balance between welcoming new values and staying true to classic nostalgia.

A STYLISH LINE-UP

OSiS provides a collection of hairstyling products that empower self-expression and encourage styling with character:

+ SMOOTH & SHINE

OSiS Flatliner, OSiS Glow, OSiS Sparkler, OSiS Super Shield

+ VOLUME & BODY

OSiS Grip, OSiS Hairbody, OSiS Air Whip, OSiS Soft Dust, OSiS Upload, OSiS Pump Up, OSiS Volume Up

+ CURLS & WAVES

OSiS Bounty Balm, OSiS Tipsy Twirl, OSiS Curl Jam

+ TEXTURE

OSiS Dust It, OSiS Flexwax, OSiS G. Force, OSiS Mess Up, OSiS Mighty Matte, OSiS Rock Hard, OSiS Velvet, OSiS Texture Craft, OSiS Thrill

+ HOLD

OSiS Elastic, OSiS Freeze, OSiS Freeze Pump, OSiS Session

+ 2ND DAY

OSiS Refresh Dust

To dive into the full OSiS product portfolio, diverse new looks and exciting styling know-how, visit: www.rdr.link/HAI025

59 product spotlight
The concept is simple: this is styling with character ; all you need to do is just add you .

from zero TO HERO

introducing Topchic Zero –the newest addition to the legendary, permanent in-salon colour from Goldwell. This conscious, caring and ammonia-free formula allows you and your clients to feel good about more than just the colour result. With sustainability at the top of the lifestyle agenda for many, Topchic Zero provides you with the answer to both your salon business and your clients’ needs, without compromising on efficacy or performance.

GOLDWELL’S NEWEST SALON COLOUR

Developed by colour experts for colour experts, Topchic Zero is designed so you and your clients can have it all. Including the best performance 1 and conscious feel-good colour that is:

■ Offering an incredibly natural, reliable grey coverage – up to 100%.

■ Delivering natural-looking, even colour results with the trusted durability of Topchic.

■ Providing smooth and shiny hair with up to 2x more shine. 2

■ Created with a vegan 3 formula that contains up to 94% naturally derived ingredients.4

■ Designed with 27 compact, versatile shade options that allow maximum creativity and maintain the hair’s healthy look and feel.

■ Enriched with acai extract, a powerful antioxidant and natural remedy against hair breakage.

■ Infused with white tea essence, known for intensified conditioning effects and natural moisture.

■ Offering maximum hair protection during the colouring process thanks to the patented IntraLipid and BondPro+ Technology. 5

■ Formulated with 0% ammonia, silicones, ethanol, or animal-derived ingredients.

“It’s so good to be able to offer an ammonia-free, permanent hair colour that doesn’t compromise on quality, coverage or a fantastic colour selection. I’m loving what I see in the incredible colour results that Topchic Zero offers. I love that I can colour with confidence, including on our clients who prefer to use more gentle products on their hair. Topchic Zero offers the best of both worlds: a caring formula that doesn’t compromise on performance and a sustainable colour product and service that meets the needs of our environmentally-conscious clients.”

Topchic Zero is a responsible choice. From the drain-safe formula that is up to 98% biodegradable 6 to the sustainably sourced packaging that is made from up to 100% recycled and recyclable materials. Plus, all Topchic Zero products are climate neutral. By reducing its carbon emissions from raw materials, packaging, production, transport and disposal –and by compensating the unavoidable ones to zero through carbon offset projects in cooperation with ClimatePartner –Goldwell is helping to contribute to the fight against global warming and promote sustainability.

www.rdr.link/HAI026

61 colour close-up
Based on overall performance (grey
competitors. 2 Vs untreated hair. 3 Free
animal-derived ingredients. 4 Varies per shade. According to ISO16128 (including water). 5 Included in
System Developer Lotion. 6 Varies
ingredients
guidelines and water.
LYDIA WOLFE, GOLDWELL COLOR AMBASSADOR, JACK & THE WOLFE
coverage, conditioning and shine) vs leading
from
Goldwell
per shade. Based on all
according to OECD

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER AND GROOMER LUKE BENSON SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS – YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

STONE & MASON campaign.

The imagery for this lookbook shoot is so beautiful. Launching the brand’s Spring/Summer collection with an amazing team was exciting to do, especially with a super fast turnaround (sometimes I have to wait so long to see the work I’ve done!). The press launch was received really well and people loved the 70s concept and creative direction. I feel like this will be an ongoing working relationship.

@lukebensonhair Follow Luke Benson @lukebensonhair @lukebensonhair

Shoot for Australian Tool brand – Flair

This was such a fun shoot to do because it allowed me to work on incorporating final still imagery as well as educational videos and step-by-steps. Also, I was working with a team that I used to work with a lot in the past and since we all know how to work together, the day ran really smoothly. I can’t wait to see the end results when they launch.

JAKE SHEARS for Ant & Dec’s Saturday Night Takeaway.

I got to work with Jake on his performance for ‘The End of the Show Show’ on Saturday Night Takeaway

He is so talented and the production for the performance was crazy! Ant & Dec are seasoned pros and it was a huge success. Jake is so cool and I’m looking forward to working with him more once his new album and singles come out.

ROMAN

KEMP hosting the London Football Awards. There are times when my job brings me bookings that really give me that star-struck feeling, and this was one! Seeing current and ex footballing heroes of mine at an event hosted by my best mate was always going to make for a fantastic day… The Roundhouse is such a great, intimate location so to rub shoulders with the names that were there was amazing.

63
@lukebensonhair @lukebensonhair @lukebensonhair @lukebensonhair

VISIT

Collinge & Co

Formerly the Andrew Collinge Hairdressing Group: A new name brings a new era with a brand-new flagship salon on Castle Street, Liverpool.

With the new name comes a striking new brand identity, celebrating the Collinge & Co teams who maintain and enhance the company’s reputation for first-class hairdressing, customer care and training.

Managing Director, Charlie Collinge, shows us around the revamped flagship store.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?

Our starting point was deciding how we wanted people to feel on arriving and spending time in the salon; we wanted the space to feel welcoming, warm and friendly. The salon has a great aspect and is very visible from the street, so our aim was to enhance the aesthetic view into the salon and to put hairdressing as an activity on display.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN? From so many places –the challenge is narrowing inspiration down! We knew early on that we wanted to incorporate strong graphic and architectural elements, so we searched for interiors and furniture that fitted that brief.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

Because of the size of the job, we used an interior designer and quantity surveyor. Along with them, we project-managed the build. We were fortunate to work with a great contractor that has been as passionate as us and the designer in achieving a high finish and attending to the details.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.

Warm, calming and comfortable. We’ve increased the distance between workstations so both client and hairdresser have more privacy, allowing them to feel more at ease.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN?

TELL US WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN?

Visually, we have added warmth and texture through timber, concrete terrazzo and soft paint finishes. The lighting has great clarity to assist with colouring, whilst also flattering clients. As part of our inclusive offering, we have expanded the size of our private salon, perfect for clients that require privacy or ideal for group bookings. Another key objective was to blend the physical and digital realms by providing lots of opportunities for photographing or filming content. We have installed a large video wall at the front of the salon which doubles up as a mini photo studio where we show our stylists’ work and promote the Collinge & Co brand, as well as and other brands we work with such as Wella Professionals.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES/AREAS IN THE SALON?

All the workstations, mirrors and retail units are bespoke. We also had a custom feature light made for the waiting area.

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?

Our main approach to sustainability within our salon designs is to make them long-lasting; we wanted the design to be timeless and use durable materials. As this was a refurbishment, we didn’t want to unnecessarily demolish elements; for example, the floor has been refurbished rather than replaced. The last salon fit-out lasted 19 years –if the new design lasts as long as that it will be a good sustainability success story!

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL?

We use Zenoti and we like that it provides lots of choice to our clients for how they get in touch and book appointments –online booking, mobile app, chat bot, SMS, WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger.

DID YOUR OWN PRODUCT BRAND/COLOUR HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN?

Absolutely. Our product range has undergone a rebrand at the same time, and the design of the salon and the Collinge & Co brand influenced each other. The salon has accents of blush pink and mint, along with black architectural elements to complement the strong typographic structure of our brand.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?

We have Catar styling chairs from Pahi and Yuto backwashes from Takumi (Pahi’s sister brand). We selected them because they are well made but also have a clean graphic presence. The trolleys from Comfortel are solid and move smoothly.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?

We all wear black so that we stand out as a team.

6 5 salon profile
Andrew, Charlie and Liz Collinge

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

When I have some free time I like to DJ in my home studio. I can be doing anything from working on a new mix to going through all the new music I’m being sent or digging for online.

5minutes with NICK IRWIN

Session supremo Nick Irwin talks sets, shoots and a spot of DJing.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU?

I normally wake early, around 5.30 am. I’ll walk my dogs, then depending on call time, I’ll usually do an hour in the gym. If I’m on set shooting, then I will get picked up with the kit (5-10 cases) and head to the

quick fire favourites

HUNGER Magazine. On set with my highly skilled assistants, we will set up for the shoot, making sure we are fully prepped and aligned on the creative. My shoots are super varied and can be anything from a cool editorial for HUNGER or another fashion magazine, or a large advertising job or celebrity work. It’s super important we have everything at hand –hence all the cases! We can sometimes prep up to 10/15 wigs, so being prepared for any situation is key to what I do as a session stylist. We tend to edit the images on set, so at the end of the shoot we will spend some time going over everything. I never get home before 8/9pm on an average day.

CAN

YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION OR FAVOURITE SHOT?

I have taken on a new role with WAHL as their Creative Consultant and we have launched a new BLENDED campaign which I’m super excited about as it marks the start of new direction and relationship. They gave us full creative control and we came up with a collection of images and 60-second vignettes that will set the precedence for the future of young hairdressers and barbers. Bringing the sensibility of the session world and using the personal nuance of the cast, we want to cement the message that hair has

TO VISIT: TATE MODERN OR DOVER STREET MARKET

TO LISTEN: PRINCE 78-88

TO EAT: KRICKET BRIXTON 3 4 1 2

TO WATCH: WITHNAIL & I

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT?

I shop at Dover Street Market in London, so I tend to bulk buy at the beginning of a season when the new collections arrive or at the end when there is a sale on. My fave item right now is a Honey Dijon hoodie.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

A stand-out moment was opening the 2021 BHA show for SKP . I brought to life an editorial that I had shot earlier that year for HUNGER Magazine. It was an African hair story inspired by the artist Zanele Muholi. I worked on every aspect –the music, the clothes, the hair etc., and it was produced by my dear friend Mike Esa. The response was overwhelming and super humbling from my peers.

“If I wasn’t a professional hairdresser,I would 100% be a professional DJ. If I’m not behind the camera on set, I’m behind the decks in a club!”

FOLLOW OUR insta @prohairmag

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are also interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of ProHair. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information.

Alan Howard..............................................................(pages 12,13) www.rdr.link/HAI100

BaByliss PRO/The Conair Group......................(page 2/IFC,3) www.rdr.link/HAI101

Alterna Haircare Europe................................................(page 19) www.rdr.link/HAI102

Great Lengths..................................................................(page 39) www.rdr.link/HAI103

ASP....................................................................................(page 33) www.rdr.link/HAI104

Joico Zotos Europe........................................................(page 22) www.rdr.link/HAI105

KPSS (UK) Ltd........................................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAI106

Takara Belmont..................................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAI107

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