Professional Hairdresser February 2023

Groove is in the hair

craft &art

Goldwell masterminds a colour campaign and a programme of support services to elevate colour expertise and drive consumer confidence in professional colour. Championing professional colour services, the new Goldwell Color Atelier has been created to ensure that both stylists and salon clients understand and recognise that a Goldwell Color Atelier salon experience is synonymous with uniquely crafted, beautiful hair.

The art of hairdressing and the craft of creating beautiful colour come together in Goldwell’s Color Atelier campaign.

What does it offer?

Goldwell Color Atelier enables Goldwell certified salons and stylists to profile themselves as a premium colour provider. The idea is to help grow consumer trust through a preference for professional colour services, making the consumer aware that every colour service is uniquely crafted for each individual client through an expert consultation.

Using dual­purpose messaging, the campaign also provides stylists with a digital opportunity to showcase the incredible results and benefits of having a bespoke, professional colour service whilst also driving consumer awareness, desire and demand for Goldwell via an engaging Social Media campaign: COLOR ATELIER CREATION

This high profile campaign highlights the care and craft that goes into every bespoke colour service, alongside demonstrating the stylist’s ability to adapt to the fast­moving pace of fashion and trends. It also spotlights Goldwell’s innovation, superior product performance and breakthrough in salon services. This will be featured in­salon and across social media, brought to life via five, distinct categories, including:

■ Superior Product Performance: Ground­breaking formulations that deliver the best hair results from in­salon services to at­home care and styling essentials.

■ Best­in­Class Stylists: Educated professionals that work with each client to develop customised services specifically tailored to reveal their most individual style.

■ Revolutionary Services: Treatments and services that leverage formulas infused with the most cutting­edge technology, delivering truly transformational results that far exceed every client’s expectation.

■ Breakthrough Technology: Constant innovation that pushes the limits of existing industry offerings for next­level results.

■ Trend Focused Looks: Looks that reflect the most up­to­date fashion trends across colour, cut, styling and texture.

For more information go to goldwell.co.uk or click here WWW.RDR.LINK/HAF032

MEMO: A current conversation on colour

REGULARS

BUSINESS

7FIRST WORD

8HEADLINES

11OUT OUT at the Headmasters Awards

12COLOUR MEMO

14PANTONE MEMO

15SUSTAINABLE MEMO

16STYLE MEMO

17BUSINESS MEMO

20WOMAN TO WOMAN

Karoliina Saunders interviews

female role models

24HAIR ME OUT

Andrew Barton reacts

62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson shares his diary

64VISIT

Smith England

665 MINUTES WITH…

Luke Benson

22CRISIS TALKS

Are you recession proof?

25PHIL-ING IN THE BLANKS

With Phil Smith

26THE BUSINESS OF BRIDES

With Teresa Weller

WOMAN TO WOMAN: Anne Veck

MARK LEESON DIRECTS: Collab with Amy Wright

56

62

TENTS

MEN’S SPECIAL

28MEN’S MEMO

31CARING CUTS

Craig Henderson

32PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

BaByliss PRO CustomFX

33BOYZONE

Men’s Styles for 2023

38Andrew Plester of HARE & BONE

39HOOKER & YOUNG

64 38

PORTFOLIO

40MARK LEESON DIRECTS

44HOOKER & YOUNG

48KJM SALONS

52TRACEY ANN SMITH

56ROBERT EATON

PRODUCTS

60COLOUR CLOSE UP

Natulique

61DROPPED

Latest Products

PORTFOLIO: Glitterati by Robert Eaton

BOOKED..! Luke Benson shares his diary

VISIT: SMITH ENGLAND

The Colour of Love

The Pantone Colour for 2023 is Viva Magenta 18-1750, a nuanced crimson-blended shade which is described as “brave and fearless; a colour whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration.” Sounds like the kind of year we all need!

With bold, pink hues already a client colour favourite, we look forward to seeing a lot more of this powerful shade, whether it’s in dramatic doses or as a more subtle accent colour. Check out our Colour Memo Special on page 14, where we pay homage to this magical magenta.

And talking of powerful colour, can we take a moment to admire the vivacious combination of colour on our cover shot this month, courtesy of the lovely Robert Eaton @robertjeaton at Russell Eaton Hair @russelleatonhair. We think it echoes the same lively sentiments as that of Viva Magenta!

Moving on to our Men’s Special, where we consider the variety of trendy haircuts that your male clients may be requesting in 2023. From buzz cuts and bobs to emulating Elvis, there’s a style out there for everyone as our edit proves. To get into the ‘boyzone’, turn to page 33.

Enjoy the issue.

@PROHAIRMAG Q @PROHAIRMAGWWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Editor

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Designer Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Group Sales Manager

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799

Fax: 01923 246901

25,291 • July 20 –June 21

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©2023 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

HAIR:Robert Eaton

PHOTOGRAPHY:Richard Miles

Groove is in the hair

HEADLINES

THE SCHWARZKOPF SEARCH IS ON!

With the back for its sixth year, the hunt is on for six social-savvy stylists to join the 2023 team. To enter, simply tag a post you’re proud of on your Instagram page, using the hashtag #SKPCollective2023. Entries close on Friday 10th February.

WELOVE COMMUNITY

With more than 25 years of experience at the forefront of the UK hairdressing industry, award-winning stylist and educator

Rae Palmer has launched a unique education platform. Offering brand neutral education, WELOVE is designed to provide hairdressers, no matter the level, with the skills and support to empower their business.

PHOREST REIGNITES THE SALON OWNERS SUMMIT

The two-day event brought 600 salon owners and industry figures Liz Earle and Sophia Hilton to Dublin, Ireland with Phorest Salon Software. Curated as an inspirational, educational platform, the conference offered the latest software innovation, salon insights and peer-to-peer networking to kickstart the year ahead.

A LEAFY DREAMLAND FOR DAVINES

Davines has opened the doors to its first purpose-built House & Academy in London’s King’s Cross. With over 30,000 individual plants across the site and cushion covers made from reused plastic bottles, the space certainly brings the brand’s sustainability ethos to life.

OFFICIALLY GREEN

Aveda is pleased to announce the brand has obtained B Corp Certification, officially recognising and deepening its decades-long commitment to sustainability.

MOODIE ON A MISSION

Pureology is delighted to introduce Neil Moodie as the brand’s first UKI Ambassador. With over three decades of session, editorial and celebrity styling experience, Neil is internationally renowned as a creative leader in the fashion and beauty community.

And the winners are...

HM Ultimate Colour Image Award – sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel Francesca Laughton, Brighton

HM Texture Image Award – sponsored by Kérastase Edd Moss, Soho

The Headmasters Awards

Against a trim and trendy New York backdrop, the Pro Hair team recently enjoyed a night celebrating the endless hairdressing talent across London and the South-East of England – The Headmasters Awards. Attended by over 700 of the internal Headmasters team, the magnificent Battersea Evolution finals recognised and celebrated the achievements of 2022 for the Headmasters’ 40th anniversary. With hilarious hosting from Joel Dommett

Christine Sanders Future Stars Award – sponsored by Paul Mitchel Lotty Cotter, Mayfair

Busiest Retailer – sponsored by Kérastase Davide Simmaco, Paddington

Busiest colourist

Busiest Stylist – sponsored by Nioxin Flavio Iacurti, Guildford

Digital Salon of the Year Cobham

Salon of the Year Windsor

Winner of the ‘Every Colour

Most Charitable salon –The salon who performed the most free haircuts in support of the Little Princess Trust. Harrow

Show Team, Creative Ambassadors Sian Quinn, Danielle Louis, Clare Hansford, Nicole Iroh

From Drab to Fab

Throughout this process, the colour placement was vital; sectioning was key to guarantee a seamless blend. We used System Blonde 9 Levels Lightener and 3% to colour correct. The colour was applied freely, in order to really work into the hair follicles. We also used ASP Vitaplex here to strengthen and revolutionise the look. Our colours of choice were: For the roots – 5.66 + 6.117 equal parts with convertor. For mid-lengths and ends – Bred Red and 6% Copper panels Bred Copper and 3%. We then separated the two application sections using foil and clear sheeting.

DARREL STARKY

THINKING PINK

Create rich, beautiful tones in just five minutes with High Speed Toners from Pulp Riot. Proven to deliver incredible toning with a unique, intensely-pigmented and blendable formula, the toners are available for Ash and Silver canvases –this particular Pale Pink shade is perfect for creating soft, baby pink tones.

www.rdr.link/HAF001

A current conversation on colour

VALENTINE’S

Step 1: Ombré through the top lengths with pre-lightener, starting from around an inch and a half from the root. Step 2: Tone all over with milkshake gloss 9.43 with 20% gold pure pigment and 20% violet pure pigment. Step 3: Develop for 15 mins.

ANDREW SMITH

We are seeing a lot of deep pinks and reds, with plum colours also making an appearance as we transition from Winter. For those who like something a little softer, strawberry blonde is likely to be the must-have summer shade.

ROLLING OUT THE RED CARPET

Keep your colour full of life with Wella’s INVIGO Color Brilliance-Blend. Complete with Histidine and Vitamin E to help maintain colour richness.

www.rdr.link/HAF002

Goldwell Announce the 2023 Colour of the Year: CHERRY POP

The deep, rich, warm red is both fiery and flirty and is scandalised with a cool pink shock to create a tantalising vibrant cherry tone.

COLOUR WITH A CONSCIENCE

Featuring high-performing botanical technologies, Aveda’s 100% Vegan Color Control Shampoo and Conditioner have been formulated for lasting radiant colour wash after wash. The plant-derived duo is 94% naturally derived and silicone free with omega 9 rich apricot oil that leaves hair feeling nourished and soft.

www.rdr.link/HAF003

LESLEY FARRELL, F&F HAIRDRESSING

COLOUR

OF THE YEAR

Viva Magenta

JOICO COLOUR AMBASSADOR

VIVA MAGENTA

Hair Andrew Smith

This is a gorgeous, unique and animated shade that will allow us as colourists to be experimental in 2023. This shade is great because it can be worn on both dark and light hair tones. I think it would look particularly great on those with shorter hair, being panelled through the hair to give a funky, high-fashion finish.

SEUNG KI BAEK, RUSH ARTISTIC TEAM

TERESA WELLER, THEBRIDALHAIRARTISTS.COM

This is a shade that will encourage rebellious clients to be even more experimental in their colour choices, while also allowing the colour-shy to dip their toes into a hi-vis trend that can be strong and beautiful –even when created subtly – with the help of toners or temporary tones. This image was created using Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Cromatics C50 (purple red) and Revlon Professional Nutri Color Filters to enhance the depth and add some serious shine.

Photographer Richard Miles

Make-up Louise Lerego Styling Magdalena Jacobs Hair Products Milkshake

With Rose-Tinta Glasses

Introducing Keune’s new Tinta Color range, containing all-vegan formulas to deliver great hair colouring results with up to 75% more fibre nourishment. Prioritising sustainability, the new range is made out of 100% recycled aluminium, decreasing the use of virgin aluminium by 82 tons per year. www.rdr.link/HAF004

MIRROR, MIRROR, ON THE WALL...

Over the past year, Green Salon Collective has been collaborating with Dr. Denise Baden, professor of Sustainable Business at the University of Southampton, on a study to determine the effectiveness of mirror talkers to spark conversations between hairdressers and their clients around sustainable haircare. Creating hair routines that minimise water, carbon and energy footprints, the research aimed to engage hairdressers in

memo

SUSTAINABILITY VISIONARIES

Following the success of their SS23 LFW show, where 23 key looks were exclusively created by KMS with sustainability in mind, VIN + OMI and KMS are proudly celebrating their ongoing sustainable partnership. With an aim of transforming salons to use energy more efficiently, the collaboration plans to strengthen industry consciousness for preserving the planet without sacrificing performance or individual style.

Head-Scratching Science

Introducing the new Scalp Solutions range from Aveda, a 94% natural collection of plant-derived products to fight the look of premature scalp ageing for healthier, shinier hair. Entirely vegan and manufactured using 100% renewable energy through solar and wind power, this impressive new collection is formulated to increase scalp hydration and instantly remove product build up.

www.rdr.link/HAF005

FALLING HEAD OVER HEELS...

To celebrate the feeling of being in love this Valentine’s, BalmainParis Hair

LUXURIOUSLY UPLIFTING

Introducing the upLifting Hair Ritual from Alterna

The Boxie –Andrew Smith

Perk it up!

create a super cool, edgy and textured style.

When it comes to creating the The Boxie for salon clients, the key is for the hair to have the length of the bob at the ends, whilst the hair on top is layered and textured, resembling that of a pixie.

The bob should always be cut just above the chin to allow the cheekbones to really pop.

A side skimming fringe works perfectly alongside the pixie cut; it is flattering for most face shapes and can give the look a more youthful appearance.

This cut is great for clients who want a haircut that is easy to style. Simply spraying some texture spray or using a mattifying paste can give the hair instant definition and add volume and texture without the use of styling tools.

Extend time between wash days even further with amika’s new perk up plus extended clean dry shampoo.Infused with scalp-nourishing ingredients, this invisible dry shampoo is ideal for those who wash their hair once or twice a week and want a healthy scalp with a grit-free, clean finish. www.rdr.link/HAF008

suddenly thinning hair or hair loss – clinically proven to densify hair strands – and use Multiplying Volume to lift naturally fine hair with a lightweight daily ritual.

www.rdr.link/HAF007

Scissor with Style

Feel glamorous every time you do a cut with these beautiful, titanium-finish, professional hairdressing scissors, complete with a cut glass crystal tension wheel. Models are available in Magenta Pink and Violet with 5.5-inch blades and made from 440c Japanese Steel. www.rdr.link/HAF009

TREND PREDICTIONS WITH EMMA SIMMONS

With the popularity of the boyfriend bob this winter, I think moving into 2023 we are going to see a lot more clients opting for the chop.

There’s no surprise that the JAW SKIMMING BOB is still going to be in high demand this year – it’s a timeless classic and totally chic.

THE BIXIE – Already we’ve seen a small trend in this textured take on a grown-out pixie crop. Not yet a full bob, but with the ease and soft sexiness of this style, it’s a perfect option for those wanting a feminine yet short look –without being too drastic.

Our Love of 70s inspired styles like the WOLF CUT will also continue throughout the year with a shorter version of the SHAG. With a flattering combination of face-framing layers and versatile length, the cut is able to work on most hair types and face shapes.

GETTING TO THE ROOTS...

Bridging the gap between hair consultations and the need for science-based advice, Root Cause Clinical is a new online portal

An Elevated Electronic Experience

To mirror the continually-evolving salon experience, iSalon has updated its cloud-based booking software, giving the platform more efficiency and

www.rdr.link/HAF011

FELLOWSHIP APP Leah Durrant

Prioritising education for 2023, the Fellowship has launched an app providing hairdressers with access to the latest education and information on Fellowship events and projects. The exciting release will offer accessible education from world class Fellowship Members, building a community of like-minded hairdressers to share and showcase their work.

and lucrative business opportunity with low overheads and endless potential for flexibility and growth.”

Available for both Apple and Android devices, the Fellowship App is free to download here: www.rdr.link/HAF012

Join the sustainable salon movement

“Do you want to do more for the planet and empower your clients with the healthiest hair choices?”

WIN

£10,000 of Natulique products & support

The NATULIQUE vision is simple –to use as many certified organic ingredients as possible in all their professional products. Your salon can become part of this ethical, sustainable vision offering cleaner and less toxic products to your team, your clients and ultimately the environment.

NATULIQUE is offering one Pro Hair reader/salon owner the chance to become a NATULIQUE salon with a £10,000 prize value to include: Complete range of NATULIQUE professional products to include colour and retail. Complete range of marketing materials and salon accessories.

Education

Retail stands

HOW TO ENTER

To enter you must first register your interest. The first 60 salons to register will receive a NATULIQUE gift pack that will introduce you to a more gentle approach to professional hairdressing. These entries will then be entered into a prize draw.

WIN

REGISTER HERE: WWW.RDR.LINK/HAF013

®

To be in with a chance of winning this amazing NATULIQUE prize worth £10,000, please enter your details at #NATULIQUEfamily. See full terms and conditions.

PRODUCTS POWERED BY NATURE

HAIR CARE

The unrivalled quality of NATULIQUE Certified Organic Hair Care products is attributed to the passion and dedication involved in creating hair care products that use an average of 95% to 100% certified organic/natural ingredients.

The 360BIOCERT principal guidelines for organic production are to use materials and practices that enhance the ecological balance of natural systems and integrate farming systems into an ecological whole. With 360BIOCERT, clients and salons are guaranteed sustainable and organic solutions for all their hair care needs. The NATULIQUE Certified Organic line is available in 100% environmentally friendly recycled

STYLING

COLOUR

95%-100% CERTIFIED ORGANIC/NATURAL HAIR CARE

No Added Silicone

Animal Cruelty Free

Professional Quality

Vegan Friendly

No Artificial Colours

360BIOCERT Standard

NATULIQUE Natural Styling is a must-have styling toolkit from the NATULIQUE family. Designed and strictly formulated in accordance with our demand for more natural, safer and certified ingredients, while using fewer chemicals, the NATULIQUE Natural Styling line now gives you a natural alternative for all your styling needs. We even decided to add a host of natural and beneficial ingredients to help achieve beautiful and more natural looking hair for a style that suits all of your day-to-day styling needs.

ADDED CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS

Pleasant Mild Fragrance Permanent Result

100% Grey Hair Coverage

100% Ammonia Free

100% Lauryl Sulfate Free

The NATULIQUE Professional Hair Colours are strictly designed with the focus on natural ingredients that provide a more gentle hair colour and extra conditioning. A unique and exclusive formula, which includes added pure natural Sunflower Seed Extract, Jojoba Oil and Apricot Seed Oil, enables us to create pleasant-to-use hair colours with fewer chemicals and better functionality –gentle, 100% ammonia free and high performance professional hair colour. With NATULIQUE Natural Colours you can offer your clients a change of colour with the maximum gentleness.

Our mission is to highlight and empower the extensive impact of hairdressers, their work and their tremendous value in our life.

#NATULIQUEfamily

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

By entering the draw you are deemed to have accepted and be bound by these terms and conditions. The draw is only open to salon owners in the United Kingdom. NATULIQUE UK reserves the right to request evidence of the winner’s role. All entrants who have submitted answers will be automatically entered into the draw provided they have given their salon name, their name, a valid email address and phone number. No responsibility will be accepted for entries which are lost, delayed, misdirected or corrupted due to any reason whatsoever. NATULIQUE UK reserves the right to disqualify an entrant or winner that in its absolute discretion could bring NATULIQUE UKinto disrepute.No purchase is necessary to enter this draw. The answers will be judged by NATULIQUE UK and will be awarded to the salon who best answers the question. There is no cash alternative offered and the prize is not transferable. The NATULIQUE products and marketing materials are to be used in salon and advertised on social media for a period of no less than 6 months. NATULIQUE will notify the winner by email or phone within 14 days of the draw. NATULIQUE UK’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The competition will close on the 30 April 2023. NATULIQUE UK reserves the right to amend the the prize at any time without notice. These terms and conditions are subject to English law and the jurisdiction of the English courts.

We invited Karoliina to catch up with some of the established and emerging female role models that are breaking boundaries, challenging perceptions and providing incredible inspiration for our future generation of stylists. Enjoy her in-depth chats on life, work and all things HAIR!

This month, Karoliina sits down with the legendary ANNE VECK. With multiple awards to her name, French-born Anne’s passion is education –sharing her skills and creativity with her peers. Today, she’s on a mission to make hairdressing more professional, ethical and sustainable. Let’s hear it for Anne!

WOMAN TO WOMAN

HI ANNE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME TODAY. TELL US ABOUT YOU… WHERE ARE YOU FROM AND WHAT’S BEEN YOUR JOURNEY TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY?

I didn’t grow up wanting to be a hairdresser, I fell into it a bit by mistake. My family situation forced me to leave school at 16 and get a job. My mum’s hairdresser was looking for an apprentice and the rest is history! I trained at the Academy de Paris where I qualified with the Brevet Professionnel Coiffure Mixte in 1984 at the age of 21.

KAROLIINA SAUNDERS is a salon owner, educator, session stylist, multi-award winner, Revlon Creative Artist and current Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Her love of fashion has taken her all over the world through a jam-packed line-up of stage, photographic, editorial and session work, as well as working backstage at all the major Fashion Weeks.

@karoliinasaunders

I have spent most of my career in England learning the art and business of hairdressing in a series of small-town salons. Then I worked in my own two-salon group, before finally discovering the exciting world of education, photo shoots, platform work and session styling. It’s been a long journey, but I am now enjoying my career –in the industry I love –more than ever.

Most recently, after 31 years of being a salon owner, we sold the business. It’s not the end of Anne Veck the hairdresser. I still have a few years ahead of me. I want to share my knowledge with my peers; my new challenge is to spread the word on sustainability and inclusivity.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BECOME AN AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSER LIKE YOURSELF?

Practice practice, practice and maybe you will get it perfect. Don’t expect success to happen overnight. If you enter a competition, be prepared to lose –that will happen more often than not. Just remember, you have to be in it to win it!

YOU HAVE HAD A VERY SUCCESSFUL CAREER AS AN ARTIST FOR GREAT BRANDS. WHO ARE YOU WITH NOW

AND WHAT DOES YOUR JOB ROLE INVOLVE?

I have been working with Davines for the last four years. I changed because I wanted to work with a brand whose DNA is sustainability; I love the brand and everything it stands for. It allows me to have different hats on –I can be a showcase artist for their worldwide hair tour in front of 4000 hairdressers, or teaching colour or sustainability to a small group.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN TO DO TEXTURED HAIR?

When I opened my own salon in 1991, I had a lot of demand, but I became increasingly uncomfortable and frustrated to admit that I couldn’t deal with every type of hair. First, I bought an NVQ book on Afro Caribbean hair, then I attended an afro hair event at Alexandra Palace. I have gone on courses with experts including MK and Charlotte Mensah, and we trained in house too. Hairdressers need to be versatile; if you can’t do textured hair, it’s like saying you can’t do blondes. We live in a multicultural society and an increasing number of clients have very curly hair –you don’t want to lose out on these lucrative services.

YOU’VE BEEN KNOWN FOR YOUR AVANT-GARDE WORK THROUGHOUT YOUR CAREER. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN AVANT-GARDE?

Avant-garde is difficult to teach as there isn’t just one technique. One thing for sure is you must master all your classics, like finger waving and intricate plaiting. Then you must think outside of the box. I often get my ideas when I’m running. I let my mind wander freely and somehow I find a way to construct the hairstyle I imagined. This could involve developing the idea by creating a moodboard, researching online, picking up materials such as garden netting or chicken wire, but mainly practising the look over and over again until it comes to life and reflects my original vision.

ARE YOU PLANNING TO TAKE PART IN COMPETITIONS THIS YEAR? IF SO, WHICH ONES?

Yes, I’m a bit of a competition addict... You’ve got to be in it to win it! I’m planning an afro hair collection and a colour one. You name it, I’ll be entering it –UK and international!

WITH SUCH A DIVERSE SET OF SKILLS, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR WORK?

I like to experiment with new textures in hair – exploring the creative potential of things like knotting, knitting, bonding and shaping –to create new shapes and architecture in hair. When I am happy that a new technique works, the next step is to use it to create a hairstyle that works visually, aesthetically and with impact. It must grab the attention, but it has to belong to the model and not look like a “hat” which sits on their head.

HOW DOES OUR INDUSTRY LOOK TO YOU AT THE MOMENT AND HOW DO YOU SEE THE NEXT COUPLE OF YEARS?

Social media has a huge positive impact on the way salons and individuals market themselves. However it can also be negative because clients’ expectations can be very unrealistic. Some of the hair images are impossible to achieve in a normal salon appointment. I would like to see hairdressing recognised as the great

profession it really is, rather than a last resort for underachievers! I have travelled the world with hairdressing, and have been able to earn my living each time I arrived in a country where I didn’t speak the language.

I expect to see the rise of genuinely sustainable products, with manufacturers investing real effort to reduce their carbon footprint and to stop destroying the environment in the sourcing of products. A great example is that most of the major players – L’Oréal, P&G, Unilever – have committed to phase out use of ‘dirty’ palm oil grown on rainforest plantations.

CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHY SUSTAINABILITY IS SO IMPORTANT TO YOU AND WHY IT’S SOMETHING WE ALL NEED TO BE MORE CONCERNED ABOUT?

I want a better world for my kids –unfortunately by the nature of our business, hairdressing is not very green, so we need to make a special effort to reduce our impact. Over the last 10 years, I’ve realised that businesses have a responsibility to be more sustainable and our clients agree. There are growing numbers of salons following the sustainability and ethical direction, particularly offering organic and vegan options for colours and hair care. However,

sustainable business choices are expensive. This is not the case; reducing your energy consumption benefits both your bottom line and the planet.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUR 16-YEAR-OLD SELF?

Don’t let your inner voice restrict what you want to achieve. Don’t worry, it will all work out in the end! Educate yourself. REMEMBER knowledge is POWER.

HOW COULD WE MAKE OUR INDUSTRY MORE ATTRACTIVE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE TO JOIN?

Better pay, faster training programmes.

SIMPLE, BUT SO TRUE! HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOUR SELFCARE AND WHAT DOES THAT CONSIST OF?

I like to start my day with a yoga session and a big glass of hot water. Yes, HOT WATER. I feel it cleans me from the inside. I like to keep fit. I now work with a Personal Trainer. It’s great fun. Maybe twice a week I relax on my bike for a long ride through Oxfordshire.

WHO ARE YOUR HAIR HEROES THAT YOU LOOK UP TO?

The team at X-presion. They are not scared to break the rules and explore new territories. The team at Haute Coiffure Française, the work of Alexandre de Paris and Odile Gilbert. Very inspiring and a lot of emotion in their work.

CAN YOU TELL US YOUR KEY TREND PREDICTION FOR THIS YEAR?

Natural hair is reigning supreme across styling as well as colour. Elaborate updos and intricate styling are out in favour of simple ponytails and semi-updos; anything that says low-maintenance. There’s still a fascination with big hair though –ultra-volumised hair with natural texture and fuss-free styling.

FINALLY, TELL US A FUN FACT ABOUT YOU THAT MOST PEOPLE WOULD NOT KNOW.

I’m good at knitting!

THANK YOU SO MUCH AND REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING YOU AROUND SOON!

Crisis TALKS

The UK is at risk of going into a recession, and while that means clients may be tightening their purse strings, it’s also an opportunity to start afresh, reinvent your business and look to the future. We spoke to some experienced stylists who have worked through past recessions to find out what you can do to ride this one out.

Keep Calm

Matrix

Terry Longden

“Having worked as a junior during the 80s recession and experiencing the recessions that followed, including opening salons, I have come to the conclusion that economic recessions come in cycles and are a natural evolution of the working world. My advice to anyone worrying about the future is to ‘keep calm and carry on’. Make sure you are able to move with the economic times, keep to your budget and don’t compromise your quality of service. In quiet periods, up your skills and try not to get sucked into thinking you need to over discount to keep clients. What I’ve discovered through experience is that worried clients will just stretch out time between appointments; they would still rather come to a salon they trust and are recommended to. When your salon attracts clients because of continued discounts, once the recession starts to ease, they will be more difficult to move away from.”

Lean Figures

HOB Salons

“Having gone through a pandemic –and of course being locked down for nearly nine months –as well as Brexit which has had a major impact on recruitment, our industry has really been through it these last few years. I started HOB Salons with my partners Paul Simbler and Akin Konizi more than 35 years ago, and we like any business have had our ups and downs surviving past recessions. Prior to this recession, we were on an expansion programme and we were seeing great opportunities and deals on rents and low interest rates. However, over the past few months, we have seen an increase in costs; minimum wage, rents, living costs, gas, electricity and stock. It’s important as a business to look at all our costs. One thing I’ve learnt from past recessions is not to be too over-exposed in bank borrowings. Make sure your salon is profitable, keep your wage percentage no more than 50% and stock spend no more than 10%. Keep investing in education if you can and finally, make sure your team is happy and motivated.”

Clive Collins

“When people talk about a recession, it’s easy to panic and think of the worst that can happen. But don’t. Stop and take a longer term view, don’t just focus on the days and months ahead. We’re told to live for the moment, but you must start planning for the other side. Flexibility is key during a recession, so be prepared to change your plans and be open to movement. Some of the best ideas come during a recession as it forces you to think outside the box and do things in a different way. So, make the most of your opportunities, shift your focus and keep everything positive.”

Panic Not

Be your Best

Look on the Bright Side

Knowledge is Key

I understand the recession we are heading into now is about the cost of goods and energy as opposed to personal debt; it’s not like the banking crisis we have had before. This means businesses like ours are absorbing increasing costs –or having to pass it onto the client –by increasing our prices. So, it is more important than ever to invest time and energy understanding the financials of your business. It’s time to stop playing and start running a business! The result allows you to sleep at night, worry less and feel empowered about what you are doing.

MODE Hair

“Never give up. It doesn’t matter how bad it’s getting, always try to look at the positives and don’t get bogged down by the voice on your shoulder or the news on the TV. Concentrate on yourself, your business and your clients. Recession is a scary word, but it’s also the time when businesses can flourish and reinvent themselves. Some of the best ideas happen during challenging times, so keep a positive mindset. Clients will continue to spend money if your relationship is built on trust, receiving high customer service

Robert Kirby London

“Don’t believe everything you read. The newspapers are full of doom and gloom, but you have to concentrate on what you have and what you have to offer. No one knows your clients better than you do, so put together service menus that suit your business and your team. Have a look at everything you offer and how you can make it better, more streamlined and more profitable.

Manage your Money

Matrix

“During the last recession, I was three months into my first salon with my business partner. My advice going into this recession is don’t always look at how you can bring in more money, but look at ways you can save money. Look at any bills, rents and utilities you can save money on; can you sub-let an empty space to a beauty therapist (subject to your contract)? Look at your service menu and how you are charging; do you want to be doing kids’ hair (that can take just as long as adults) but charge 25-50% the normal amount? Charging by time can make a big difference to your profit line. Clients want the best hair, that’s why they come to you –so it’s your job to educate them on the right products. If they are having a £100 balayage service but buying a £5 shampoo, it’s up to us to educate on the benefits on longevity. Healthier hair equals better results.

Simon Townley

Charlie Miller for L’Oréal Professionnel

Brooks & Brooks

Martin Crean

Josh Miller

Robert Kirby

Jamie Brooks

HAIR ME OUT

this is not new –it’s been an issue in the industry for decades! Smart people know that one of the best ways to move forward is to engage with the team and keep them excited about their work, this allows them to build on their individual intentions.

ur industry, like many others, is currently facing a mountain of challenges. In particular, there is a lot of noise about the lack of skill and the shortcomings of young people joining the industry. Are these fears real or have they always been a challenge?

OWe all start a new year with the intention for it to be the best year yet –and I for one, try to start each and every day with a positive view. I always question what I have to do in order to get to the outcome I want; this is often about appreciating the little things and understanding how others are feeling. What might be holding others back from achieving their intention?

It’s easy to tell an apprentice or colleague that they need to be motivated, but what does that truly mean and how can they succeed in doing that?

For me, motivation is about The Three Pillars; they help me stay true to my intention and understand how to get there.

• PILLAR ONE –FEAR This motivates us to get things done –the fear of getting fired may motivate us to get organised, for example. For me, in my business, it has always worked as a red flag to ensure I stay on top of things, particularly the things I least like doing. I get these out of the way first, giving me time to focus on the things I enjoy.

• PILLAR TWO –DESIRE This motivates us to achieve personal gratification through wealth and pleasure. There is joy that comes from having a good income and being able to buy things we like. This motivates me, for example, to achieve personal targets in the salon. Every time I offer advice to my clients about home care, there is the motivation of monetary gain. Offering clients advice gives

us the opportunity to promote further services and expertise, but it also gives the client what they desire –advice.

• PILLAR THREE –DUTY This motivates us to do the right thing. We all want the same thing - a life filled with joy and meaning. A sense of meaning shows that our actions have purpose and are appreciated by others. Taking responsibility for jobs, projects and others in the salon is a huge motivator and helps us to achieve success.

You may or may not have achieved your New Year’s resolution, but who really needs just the first month of a year to superficially change things up in order to achieve your own goals. Intention is all about the why and the how; it is a guiding beam of light helping us achieve what we need to do.  So, back to hiring that elusive apprentice. Think about what they want and can expect –will their week simply be filled with washing tint bowls and standing around bored? How quickly could you get them trained to become a hairdresser, or at least contribute to salon life –which is ultimately their INTENTION !

I hope you found this little blowout of mine interesting and that you can take some snips (!) of it with you on your road to success.

Andrew offers an in-salon tailor-designed training service, BARTON BESPOKE, where he’ll visit your salon for a day full of inspiring training all about INTENTION

IN THE FOURTH INSTALMENT OF HIS THOUGHT-PROVOKING SERIES, ANDREW BARTON CONSIDERS HOW OUR INTENTION GIVES US THE OPPORTUNITY TO GROW AND SUCCEED…

Trust

PHIL-ing

IN THE BL ANKS

Each month, businessman, award-winning salon owner and creator of two top-selling haircare ranges, Phil Smith, helps to fill in all of the gaps in your business knowledge. From quick and easy ways to boost your profits, to totally rethinking your business, he’ll be sharing some of the most valuable lessons he’s learnt throughout the course of his successful career…

This issue… 5 ways to BOOST MORALE IN YOUR TEAM

A happy, smiling, hardworking team is every salon owner’s goal. But now let’s remember, we’re living in the real world! Every team has its ups and downs – whether it’s initiating new joiners or keeping long-term employees energised. Being the boss isn’t easy, but it’s a whole lot better when you have a positive work culture and motivated people around you.

BE AN OPEN BOOK

Ownership is a powerful way to spark ambition. The more invested in the business your employees are, the more they’ll care about its performance. Be transparent about performance metrics, costs and challenges, and always share success when it comes along. Can you make key members more responsible for, and therefore invested in, certain aspects of salon life? Shared goals and visions for the business will pull a team together.

IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT THE MONEY…

Small gestures can mean so much more than big rewards: That can be a ‘thank you’ for a job well done or more responsibility when someone is excelling in their work. Trips, prizes or opportunities outside the salon also have the power to motivate employees and give them a sense of accomplishment.

…BUT IT’S NOT A BAD PLACE TO START

When morale starts to dip it’s rarely to do with salary. In fact, it’s far more likely to be a desire for more development and training opportunities.

1 2 3 4 5 £

Benchmarking your salaries against the local area and your team’s skill level is mandatory. Pay fairly, but make sure that goes hand-in-hand with offering room to progress and giving credit where it’s due.

CREATE A TEAM SPIRIT

The most successful salons have a social connection and bond between team members. A sense of belonging is often the key factor that keeps them with you. Regular team building inside and outside of the salon is crucial – a great night out can work wonders. But it’s important to keep an eye on everyday interactions to make sure the chemistry is working across the board. Stress and negativity are infectious and should be nipped in the bud.

REMEMBER, YOUR TEAM WORKS WITH YOU, NOT FOR YOU

While it’s important to give the feedback your team needs to grow and develop, you should embrace their input to help you improve too. Shine a light on each individual’s diverse skills and creative talents to help your team appreciate and support each other. You might learn a thing or two as well! I’ve had some great team players and some not so great over my career, but I absolutely would NOT have enjoyed the journey I’ve had without each and every one of them. You can’t do what you do without your team, so always be humble and open, appreciate them and make sure they know their ideas matter.

THE BUSiNESS OF Brides

In the second of our bridal series,Teresa Weller, Director of Teresa Weller Hair Art and thebridalhairartists.com, looks at how to ensure you are offering a 360˚ bridal service to your clients

February is a notoriously busy time for bridal businesses, with the most romantic day of the year – Valentine’s Day – not surprisingly the most popular day for proposals. For many brides, after securing a date, venue, and a dress, it’s the hair and make-up that takes centre stage. So, ensuring you offer a cohesive bridal service that looks after your clients from the very start is key. Here’s how to make it happen...

1

Build your brand beautifully from the ground up. Start with a logo, website, and Instagram page that are professionally designed and in line with your bridal aesthetic; this shows anyone looking for you online what to expect when they get in touch. Prices and beautifully shot imagery of work you’ve created and happy brides you’ve collaborated with are, of course, non-negotiable.

Love at first site Win them over

2 3

If you’re award-winning, shout about it on your website and social media channels to whet a bride’s wedding hair appetite. Winning awards is a true testament to the love and devotion you put into what you do and is the icing on the wedding cake for many brides-to-be. A huge number of our brides say that knowing we are multi-award-winning really put them at ease before we met.

The hair vow

First impressions last, and our hair vow starts the moment a bride gets in touch. This is the most crucial stage to ensure they feel at ease and confident in your ability to create luxurious, bespoke bridal hair in a calm, creative environment. It’s also an opportunity for you to showcase everything you offer, including expert advice on creating a hair (and, if you offer it, make-up) plan, to get them through to the photo finish on the big day itself.

The network you build as you grow your business is vital. Photographers, make-up artists, wedding planners, florists, and local venues can be the perfect vehicle for you to help each other with referrals, while simultaneously taking the pressure off a bride who doesn’t know where to start. Cross-promotion works so well in the bridal sector, but it’s important to ensure each business reflects your quality, as there’s no room for disappointment along the wedding way.

The 6-month plan

We like to see ourselves as a wedding concierge when it comes to hair. We help every bride get organised with a wedding hair planner, it is the perfect way for them to keep on track with what they need to do in preparation, and details how we can help along the way. This includes regular trims and colour services (with timings), luxury treatment offerings and hair care advice.

Aisle be there

on the day itself, it’s never just about the hair for me and my team. We go over and above for every bride –we have even been known to stitch a bride into her dress, sort out a bridal bouquet drama, and run to the shops to get some last-minute items to save the day! It’s a day you want them to remember – for all of the right reasons.

Inspo-a-go-go

At thebridalhairartists.com,we don’t see ourselves as a minor detail to the bridal party –we are the bridal party!

We’re there to see our clients through all the highs and lows of wedding planning, and the hair trial is a crucial stage in our partnership. I always tell my bridal clients, wedding hair is a journey, not a destination; they need to be fully invested in their look for the day. It helps if they have more than an interest in Pinterest to ensure you’re on the same wedding planning page.

Fab collab

SUSTAINABLE SHAVING

For an ethical approach to men’s hair, Insight has developed a male grooming range made up of organically-sourced formulas that don’t compromise on quality. Designed to cleanse and hydrate skin and facial hair, the sustainably-conscious range includes: Shaving Soap, Beard Cleanser, Emollient Face and Aftershave Cream, and Hair & Body Cleanser

www.rdr.link/HAF020

Christian Wiles Wins International Barbering Award

Christian Wiles, owner of an eponymous salon in Northampton, was announced as International Modern Barber of the Year at the Australian Modern Barber Awards 2022. His innovative winning collection combined traditional barbering techniques with fashion-forward styling.

Beyond Hair Expectations

Offering a broader approach to trendy hairstyles, a new campaign from Great Lengths has included men’s styling to highlight the inclusivity of their extensions. To create this effect, Great Lengths’ Tapes extensions have been applied in the shades 05, 28, and 85 from Natural Colors. The GL Tapes are anchored to an extra-thin adhesive strip designed not to cause tension and to be totally flat on the head, guaranteeing total comfort, high performance and fast application. The result is a new hairstyle concept to create a fuller effect and long, natural hair.

www.rdr.link/HAF020

MACHO METALS

Introducing the Limited-Edition Metal Cordless Senior from WAHL. Complete with aluminium housing to give a weighted, premium feel, as well as an adjustable, thin profile blade with a flat bottom, the new tool can provide precision fading and smooth blending with a 70-minute cordless run time.

www.rdr.link/HAF019

For the Modern Gentlemen

Balmain Hair Couture has expanded its Homme line with two new styling products and a travel sized gift set. Consisting of products for thicker and full-bodied hair, the line has been designed for the modern gentlemen’s grooming routine. The luxurious new Sculpting Wax and Styling Gel Medium Hold are complete with the intense, ambery, woody fragrance of Balmain Homme. www.rdr.link/HAF021

WHEN A HERO COMES ALONG...

Containing ProAmino Peptide Complex, the Hero range from Eufora is scientifically-backed, pH balanced and based in organic aloe to sooth irritation and strengthen the hair and skin. The 18-product range uses advanced technology to work both above and below the scalp surface to reduce the amount of hair fallout.

www.rdr.link/HAF022

CONGRATULATIONS GEORGE SMITH

During the annual glitzy extravaganza of the British Hairdressing Awards 2022, George Smith, TONI&GUY Salisbury, scooped the title for Men’s Hairdresser of the Year with his finalist collection. Congratulations George!

Denman: Nude Collection

Introducing the Nude Collection from Denman’s Global Collective – a diverse, creative project capturing the talent of incredible hair professionals from across the globe, including Japan, Philippines, Austria, USA, Slovenia and the UK.

British Hairdresser Alan Beak describes his male looks in the collection: “The pre-Covid bald has faded, and tight crops have given way to longer lengths and more opportunity to play with styling. This shape is a classic graduated cut with length in the crown and weight through the front. Go big with a root-lift created with a Denman vent brush or classic styler, before styling slick or laying down a side swept fringe for true variety and diversity. Finally, use the Denman D25 Fantail comb to arrange the hair perfectly in place.”

Join the Crew

Designed with all hair types, textures and diversities in mind, the dynamic new campaign from American Crew presents a fresh approach to their best-selling product: Pucks Whether it’s WFH-casual or a night out on the town, the ten different, high-performing styling Pucks – from light-hold creams to heavy-hold pomades – cater for all varieties of hairstyles, ultimately encouraging men to recognise their hair individuality.

www.rdr.link/HAF023

CA R I N G C U T S

CRAIG HENDERSON IS THE OWNER OF CRAIG’S BARBERSHOP, A UNIQUE AND COMPASSIONATE SPACE. WHEN CRAIG REACHED OUT TO US TO TELL HIS STORY, WE FELT MOVED TO HIGHLIGHT THE WORK OF THIS UNSUNG HERO.

I RUN A GENDER-NEUTRAL, NEURODIVERSE BARBERSHOP IN BOLTON. I HELP KIDS WHO STRUGGLE GETTING HAIRCUTS, DE-SENSITISING THE EXPERIENCE BY DOING WHATEVER IT TAKES TO MAKE THEM FEEL COMFORTABLE. THIS MEANS EVERYTHING FROM LYING ON THE FLOOR AND CHASING THEM AROUND THE SHOP, TO MAKING THEM FEEL AT EASE BY PLAYING WITH FIDGET TOYS OR LOOKING AT THE FISH LAMP. I HAVE ALSO DEVELOPED HAIR INDUSTRY ‘PEC CARDS’ WITH THE AIM OF PREVENTING UNNECESSARY STRESS AND DISCOMFORT FOR THE CHILD.

AS WELL AS RUNNING THE BARBERSHOP, CRAIG ALSO VISITS SPECIALIST NURSERIES AND SECONDARY SCHOOLS TO WORK WITH KIDS IN MORE COMFORTABLE ENVIRONMENTS.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY?

I’ve been in the industry for over 15 years.

WHEN DID YOU OPEN YOUR BARBER SHOP?

I opened my shop in 2018, thanks to my brother-in-law who invested in me. Conveniently, it was already called Craig’s Barbershop before I took it over, so some might say it was written in the stars!

DID YOU OPEN IT WITH THE INTENTION OF BEING A GENDER-NEUTRAL, NEURODIVERSE SHOP?

I had always worked in unisex salons and even though it was a barbershop, I thought why couldn’t it be gender-neutral? Hair is hair at the end of the day; we are trained to cut hair not gender. For the neurodiverse part, I firmly believe everyone deserves a haircut, no matter what their requirements; we are a community service, and therefore we serve everyone in the community.

HAVE YOU HAD ANY TRAINING OR EXPERIENCE IN THE FIELD OF NEURODIVERSITY?

My son Ashton has SPD (Sensory Processing Disorder), so he helps me a lot in developing my skills

for working with children and young adults with additional needs. When working with these clients, each individual has their own special requirements, so I’m constantly learning in the shop.

WHY DO YOU THINK YOU CAN REACH THESE KIDS/YOUNG ADULTS IN THE WAY THAT YOU DO?

I feel like I have the patience of a saint and a lot of the parents say so too! I work at the level of the child; I don’t force them into uncomfortable situations, even if this means doing their hair at a bus stop, (which I have done before now). When I started in the industry I was only allowed to use my scissors, I had to earn my clippers. When you have to do a flat top entirely with scissors and a comb, you become a dab hand with this tool. When working with clients with additional needs, scissor work is my go-to; clippers take a lot more time to build up trust. If I do use them, I recommend the Gamma Plus X-Ergo as they are a lot quieter and have a low vibration rate.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK IN THE SPECIALIST NURSERY.

It all started with the nursery –they were looking for a barber,

but hadn’t told me that they were specialist. It was only when I turned up they told me that the children had additional needs, mainly autism. I asked the leaders to get the caretaker and I cut his hair so the children could see what I was doing. Wanting them to feel at ease with me, I let them feel the back of the clippers, make noise with the teeth on the combs, play with the hair grabbers and the water spray. Only then did I work on the children –we had some ups and downs, but now I am the official barber for the nursery.

WHAT ARE THE HAIR INDUSTRY PEC CARDS THAT YOU HAVE DEVELOPED?

I developed the PEC (Picture Exchange Communication) Cards with a friend of mine whose company is Doodle Juice. I designed them to help non-verbal, autistic and deaf clients. The cards explain the process of a haircut to the children with a range of emotions, tools, situations and numbers to help them understand. They are available to purchase on my website: https://www.craigsbarbershop. co.uk/pecs-cards

Holding Out

for a

Hero

BaByliss PRO now offers complete customisation to their hero grooming range with CustomFX: three tools with endless possibilities.

Barbers and stylists can now get in the creative groove and design their own unique products to fit their signature style with the hero grooming range from BaByliss. From flashy metals to cool pops of colour the Cordless Clipper, Super Motor Skeleton Trimmer and Titanium Foil Shaver offer complete customisation.

Each tool is made up from different customisable parts –available in ten different colours –providing a myriad of possible combinations. A brand-new, exclusive feature for the UK, also takes customisation to the next level with the choice of a complimentary, personal engraving on each tool.

As well as having full aesthetic control, barbers and stylists can now also select their blade type to completely suit their own needs. New blade types are available for the Super Motor Clipper and the Super Motor Skeleton Trimmer, and include the popular new Black Graphite Fade Blade.

CUSTOMFX CORDLESS SUPER MOTOR CLIPPER

The original hero product, the Cordless Super Motor Clipper, is engineered with power, strength and precision in mind. It has become the go-to clipper for many, with its high-torque motor and sharp Japanese steel blades.

CUSTOMFX CORDLESS SUPER MOTOR SKELETON TRIMMER

The Skeleton Trimmer is designed for detail. With an exposed extra-wide Japanese steel T-blade edge, the tool gives 360˚ sight and control when outlining or detailing, and the new zero gap function gives a closer cut than ever before.

CUSTOMFX TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER

In a robust metal design, the Titanium Foil Shaver is a heavy-duty shaver with dual foils designed for precision and blending. Hypoallergenic foils provide a close cut and bumpfree-fade finish.

Custom corner

would like to customise. Choose from the hero range: the iconic Super Motor Clipper, Skeleton Trimmer or Titanium Foil Shaver. Begin your customisation by choosing from ten different colours for each component to create your unique design.

Add your own complimentary engraving to your kit, choosing from five different scaleable fonts. Share your creation with the world and use @babylissprouk on your social posts for a chance to be featured.

Colours available: black, white, gun metal, gold, rose gold, green, red, blue, purple and pink.

BOYZONE

TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE BIGGEST TRENDS HAPPENING IN MEN’S HAIR RIGHT NOW…

BAYLEIGH PEACE AND LAURA SCOTT FROM MARK LEESON

To begin, the hair was point cut and texturised to create more separation and texture. The sides were classically undercut and sculpted to generate a strong punk symmetry. Whilst the hair was left longer in the nape area, it was still texturised to create the mullet feel. Next, American Crew Tech Series Texture Foam was used on the wet hair to provide support as well as volume. Finally, the hair was finished with American Crew Matte Clay and spritzed with Revlon Professional Photo Finisher.

The look began as more of a flat top structured shape, but this was transformed with a classic fade through the nape and sides. We also left excess length to create a fin, emphasising the mullet shape around the occipital bone. The hair was then textured and point cut with a little razoring to the back and fringe area. This is very much a blended mullet!  Before blow-drying, American Crew Fiber Grooming Foam was applied to the wet hair, giving a medium hold and shine. Finally, the look was finished with American Crew Defining Paste and American Crew Alternator Finishing Spray.

TERI LOWE

‘This is a really cool look that uses deep blue to add depth and interest to an all-over colour, styled in an ‘of the moment’ mullet. First, I pre-lightened the full head using a slicing technique with Schwarzkopf Professional Blonde Me with 6% vol and left this to develop for the full time. I then washed over the Schwarzkopf Professional Blue Chroma ID with one pump of 9.12 Chroma ID to create a dark blue, denim colour. To finish, I cut and styled the hair into a mullet shape.’

‘For this look, I wanted to achieve an interesting face frame in a colour that stood out, specifically in contrast to the model’s natural brunette hair and fair skin tone. I used Schwarzkopf Professional Blonde Me Lightener, plus 9 with 6% to create the face framing slices of colour. I then used Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID in Blue and Yellow to create the green shade I wanted. I made seven slices using foils on the hair around the model’s face, this lightened the hair to a level 9 which was a pale yellow. After, I added the green shade as a toner for 20 minutes, this blended the slices for a soft face frame. Before styling, I applied a conditioning colour mask to maintain the health of the hair.’

JIM SHAW AND DAISY CARTER

‘When creating this look, it was all about achieving sleek, clean lines and allowing the hair to really compliment the model’s face shape. Scissors were used to cut the hair at the sides, keeping it relatively short in comparison to the longer length on top. It was important to have a gradual blend with great shape as we worked towards the top of the hair, but for the top itself to have much more volume and height for a statement look. Label M Volume Mousse was applied throughout to create this height, before using a hairdryer and brush to help direct the longer section of the hair and form the slicked-back shape. Label M Matt Paste was then distributed throughout the hair to smooth the sides and add further volume to the top of the hair, as well as hold. To finish the look, American Crew Alternator Finishing Spray was used to give the hair further flexibility, whilst still maintaining control and height – it was key that the hair looked done but not stiff.’

MIKE TAYLOR

‘I created this look using the Mike Taylor Education ‘5-point cut’ method. With clippers, I shaved the length off the back and sides, before cutting with scissors on the top of the head. I styled the look with a diffuser and applied a texture paste. Finally, I teased the curls out with a Denman D25 Fantail Comb. ‘

HOB CREATIVE TEAM

‘Based on the rock and roll era of the 60s but with a twist, ‘The Jagger’ has a relaxed, messy feel thanks to its short fringe and centre parting, whilst still remaining groomed with careful layering to add dimension to the hair. To create this look: Firstly, divide the back from the front. Starting at the front, take a vertical profile line, cutting a round shape. Next, take a section on either side of your guideline – at HOB, we call this a ‘box section’. Using the guideline, in the middle continue horizontally pulling each section straight out of the head. Work vertically along both top sides and sides, pulling parallel from the head and creating a round shape. Continue through the back in the same way, mindful of forming a round shape throughout. Once

JONATHON ANDREW

‘My inspiration for this look was based on exploring the way a haircut can be styled to show versatility. It was part of my ‘Changes’ collection, where I used one cut to showcase four very different styles. A great cut should include flexibility in styling, allowing you to adapt the look depending on your mood or environment. For this look I used the Fudge Professional XXL Hair Thickener and Xpander Foam to slick the hair back into a quiff, before finishing the look with Fudge Professional Grooming Putty and Skyscraper.’

CHRISO’RIORDAN

‘Here is a Mod-inspired fade with a solid front to create a dual texture finish. Freehand, I faded the sides and used both flat and point cut techniques through the top. I then applied a pomade to the fringe to add shine as well as depth. Finally, I used American Crew Boost Powder towards the crown for subtle volume and a matte texture.’

INVERT

I studied the impact black and white photography has had on hairdressing and wanted to push it to the next level. INVERT focuses on creating contrasting visuals using photography, styling and hair.

Andrew Plester

HOOKER &YOUNG

Hair Hooker & Young Make-up Kirsten Baillie Photography Michael Young Products Schwarzkopf Professional

MARK LEESON DIRECTS

Continuing our creative collaboration with the multi-award winning Mark Leeson, here he mentors another up-and-coming stylist to create a set of stunning images exclusively for Pro Hair.

I’VE BEEN LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A FUN-FUELLED YEAR UNDER THE MENTORSHIP OF MARK LEESON, BOTH WITH THE REVLON VISIONARY TEAM AND HERE TODAY ON THIS SHOOT FOR PRO HAIR! I CAN’T SHOUT LOUDLY ENOUGH ABOUT HOW MUCH I’VE GRASPED EVERY WORD –I TRULY DO FEEL I AM A FAR MORE ACCOMPLISHED CREATIVE HAIRDRESSER THAN I WOULD HAVE BEEN.

AMY WRIGHT AT ANTHONY LABAN

AMY WRIGHT

THE JOY OF AMY IS THAT SHE IS LIKE A SPONGE – AND ALWAYS FIRST IN THE QUEUE WHEN IT COMES TO OPPORTUNITIES LIKE THESE. IT’S BEEN GREAT GETTING TO KNOW HER THROUGH HER YEAR-LONG MENTORSHIP PROGRAMME WITH REVLON, AND TODAY HAS JUST BEEN THE ICING ON THE CAKE FOR US BOTH TO PUT ALL THAT HAS BEEN PREACHED INTO PRACTISE.

MARK LEESON –ART DIRECTOR

BEHIND

THE SCENES

Chris Bulezuik –Photographer

Lauren Mathis –Make-up Artist

GEORGIE –@thehairdesk

NATHALIE @thehairdesk

HOOKER &YOUNG

ArtTeam

Hair HOOKER & YOUNG Art Team

Make-up Maddie Austin

Styling Clare Frith

Photography Michael Young

Products Schwarzkopf Professional

Hair Kerry Mather Make-up Lauren Mathis Styling Clare Frith

Photography Richard Miles

Tracey AnnSmith

Hair Tracey Ann Smith

Make-up Lauren Mathis

Styling Magdalena Jacobs

Photography Eddie Macdonald

My inspiration for this year is simple beauty. Anyone who knows me knows that simple, beautiful hair is my passion and I love to create, style and showcase my work that is relatable to clients all over the world.

ROBERT

EATON

Hair Robert Eaton

Make-up Lucy Flowers

Styling Clare Frith

Photography Richard Miles

NATULIQUE Natural Hair Colours are made with high-quality, natural ingredients that are gentle on the hair and scalp. The colours are vibrant, long-lasting and free from harmful chemicals such as ammonia and parabens. These colours are perfect for clients with sensitive scalps and those looking for a more natural alternative to traditional hair colours.

The range has been designed with the focus on natural ingredients that provide a more gentle hair colour and extra conditioning. This natural-based, permanent cream-based colouring system has a unique and exclusive formula, which includes added pure natural Sunflower Seed Extract, Jojoba Oil and Apricot Seed Oil, creating pleasant-to-use hair colours with less chemicals and with better functionality. This gentle, 100% ammonia free and high performance product offers clients a healthier and more natural hair colouring experience without compromising quality or results.

Natural GoodLooks

ADDED CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS

Pleasant mild fragrance

Permanent result

100% grey hair coverage

100% ammonia free

100% lauryl sulfate free

FACT FILE

The colours are made with high-quality, natural and organic ingredients that are gentle on the hair and scalp.

The colours are vibrant, long-lasting and free from harmful chemicals such as ammonia, parabens, providing a healthy and natural alternative to traditional chemical hair colours without compromising on quality or results. It’s perfect for customers with sensitive scalps and those looking for a more natural alternative to traditional hair colours. With this system, salons can offer clients a healthier and more natural hair colouring experience while still being able to compete with traditional chemical hair colour options.

It you’re looking for a healthier colour option, take a look at NATULIQUE Natural Hair Colours.

“Using NATULIQUE has been the best thing I have done for myself and my salon, being the most sustainable and ethical professional product in our industry. Working with this brand is a pleasure and the results are always outstanding”

Ruby Byrne - Ruby B Chiswick

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. DELIGHTFULLY DETOXING DRY SHAMPOO

Olaplex has launched its first ever dry shampoo, the No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo. Infused with multi-patented OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology, this Clean Volume Detox does more than absorb oil, odour, and sweat – it also detoxifies the scalp without clogging pores and neutralises odour-causing pollutants.

www.rdr.link/HAF026

2. SMALL BUT MIGHTY

Encourage your clients to take a slice of the salon home with them, with INNOluxe’s new Elixir V3 30ml. Both a handbag saviour and a holiday superhero, the 30ml bottle packs a punch to provide a daily dose of conditioning goodness.

www.rdr.link/HAF027

3. HEAT-PROTECTING HERO

With an innovative new formula, ALFAPARF’s best-selling product, the Semi Di Lino Cristalli Liquidi, has just had an upgrade. Hailed by hairdressers for its incredible shine, gloss and fragrance, the serum has recently advanced even further with its added thermal protection from heat tools up to 230°C.

www.rdr.link/HAF028

4. BUTTERY SOFT

New to Oribe’sHair Alchemy Collection is the Hair Alchemy Strengthening Masque This moisture-magnifying shea butter formula deeply conditions while fortifying hair from the inside out, and is designed for those with inherently weak strands of all hair types.

www.rdr.link/HAF029

5. COOL-HEADED

Crafted for optimal neutralisation on all bases, Schwarzkopf Professional’s new IGORA Cools range consists of ultra-wearable cool tones. From enticing cendrés to directional ash and jade shades, the range has emerged in response to the increasing consumer demand for cooler tones on darker bases.

www.rdr.link/HAF030

6. BOND ME UP BUTTERCUP

Introducing the brand-new Uberliss Bond Treatment, designed to improve hair elasticity during bleaching and colouring, with no need to increase developer or processing time. The new system is a three-step process consisting of the Bond Regenerator, Bond Shampoo and Bond Amplifier. The treatment is also available in a range of temporary shades, giving clients the opportunity to experiment with colour in the salon and at home.

www.rdr.link/HAF031

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER AND GROOMER

LUKE BENSON IS ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE INSTAGRAM OBSESSIONS FOR BACKSTAGE PEEKS AT CELEBRITY SHOOTS AND EVENTS. CATCH LUKE’S LATEST DIARY HIGHLIGHTS WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

“The Jingle Bell Ball is my favourite working weekend of the year because I get to see my best mate ROMAN KEMP do his thing in front of a sold-out O2 arena for two days. We are pulled from pillar to post all weekend, doing links for Sky, Global Player, artist interviews and press runs –but it’s always so fun. We get a good time slot in the morning for haircut and grooming and then I’m on hand all day and evening for touch ups so he’s camera ready for the show. I’m immensely proud to be a part of the event, but I also love seeing so many hair and make-up friends on site showing off their skills.”

@lukebensonhair

This appearance on LOOSE WOMEN was to promote ROMAN’S book, he was also on the show to talk about mental health.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

Grooming for Tom Grennan, who performed his and Joel Corry’s single, Lionheart, on the Strictly results show.

“I love working with Tom. He’s got a great eye for fashion and my friend is his stylist so it’s always a nice collaboration. We have been growing his hair, so there are lots more looks to come ready for his upcoming album release and tour in the next few months.”

“The NAILS INC team are one of my faves –I think this was the 8th campaign I’ve shot with them! Now I feel part of the family, so they ask a lot on hair concept and shot order to achieve the best results. They are an incredible brand that’s continuing to evolve and produce great imagery, so it’s lovely to be part of.”

top secret...

“I was asked to go out to Amsterdam to shoot a new campaign for Keune Haircosmetics. It was nice to be able to work alongside the creative agency and production team to create concept, model casting, styling ideas etc and to be integral to the whole shoot. I can’t wait to see the final results!”

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

ViSiT

How did you decide on the style of your salon interior?

Smith England inhabits a 14th Century building that had previously been a wool shop. It’s linked to the outer walls of Salisbury Cathedral and typifies the architecture of this medieval city. My mission was to honour the character features of the building, but strike a balance between combining the functionality of a salon with maintaining the beautiful surroundings. The style we settled on was laidback luxury.

Where did you find the inspiration for your design?

I didn’t want this to look like a typical salon environment, I wanted it to have more of a timeless feel – like a members’ club or a high-end hotel bar. The Soho House brand does this so well and their locations are traditional, but they always have an element of cool. It’s a style I aimed to emulate while putting my own stamp on it. We complemented the building’s integral features such as oak beams, exposed stone walls and fireplaces with locally-sourced antique furniture and pieces from my personal art collection. It’s a blend of styles and references – the result feels unique and lived-in.

Did you use an interior designer?

No, this is all my own work. It’s a process I really enjoy.

Describe the vibe created by your interior.

It’s high quality but homely, with a warm, welcoming vibe Our clients appreciate that this isn’t your standard high street shiny, identikit hair salon. It’s got character and

interesting details with a sense of atmosphere – even when it’s empty. Most of all, it’s a really nice place to hang out.

What do you hope are your clients’ first impressions when they walk in?

I hope it’s the same impression you get when you visit a great hotel or restaurant. We pay attention to the small details such as fresh flowers on the reception desk and a well-stocked and meticulously-maintained retail line-up. Our window displays change regularly and can be influenced by graphics

SMITH ENGLAND has history steeped into the salon walls, its owner, PHIL SMITH, welcomes us in...

Tell us, what are the key elements of your salon design?

The building influences the look more than anything. The leaded windows, stone walls and wooden floorboards have all been carefully restored to become features in their own right. Layering and mixing references is where the design comes into its own. There’s texture and unexpected details everywhere you look. Nothing is uniform – it’s all a blend of handcrafted design and a considered, timeless finish.

Do you have any curated pieces or special features/areas in the salon?

Art is one of my favourite passions in life and I’m a keen collector of pieces by the likes of Tracy Emin and David Shrigley, plus up-and-coming artists such as Dave Buonaguidi (Hackney Dave). This artwork features on walls all around the salon.

How have you embraced sustainability within the design?

Building restoration is arguably the most sustainable construction process for several reasons; it extends the building’s life by giving it a new purpose, reduces material waste, preserves skills and creativity that went into the creation of the building and conserves energy. Rather than ripping things out, we restored carefully to honour the building’s origins. Of course, old buildings have their challenges – one of them being energy efficiency, but we’ve implemented measures, such as installing an Air Source heat pump, to significantly lower our carbon footprint.

What salon software do you use?

We use iSalon software –run by my daughter Ellie, who manages the salon. Mostly, she uses quick analysis features and key reports on our employees to find out their personal client retention or new client figures. This allows us to see how we can improve our client services.

Did your product brand/colour house influence your style of interior design?

The colour scheme for the salon is warm-toned neutrals, so it’s a perfect base to showcase both our Phil Smith Be Gorgeous and Smith England products. The two ranges have entirely different personalities, so it was important to make a neutral environment.

What salon furniture have you chosen?

Each piece was carefully selected and is mostly vintage or handmade. We have a beautiful writing bureau as a reception desk, free-standing, oversized mirrors and antique leather chairs. The retail display sits on handmade library shelving. There’s even a ram statue, above the salon entrance in tribute to the former wool shop.

Do you have dress code/uniform for your team?

“Golf is my biggest release away from work and everyday life –it’s my happy, calm place. Especially at Wentworth, it’s one of the greatest courses on the planet! This was one of those perfect days with perfect weather and a view of Wentworth behind me. Everything is right with the world in this picture!”

5minutes with Luke Benson

Celebrity

Hairdresser and Session Stylist

Luke Benson talks us through his transistion to freelancing and the importance of family life…

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU.

My days are so random! A normal day could be a celeb shoot, a brand shoot, an event –it could be in London or Manchester or Paris. Sometimes it’s a three-day week or a seven-day week, and that’s what I love about it. Every day is different and I get to work with so many people –it’s great being able to build relationships and continue working with them over time. I think for everyone who goes freelance from a busy

salon column, there’s that fear of “what if there’s not enough work?!” But there always is, you just have to be comfortable with knowing that it’s never going to be a normal 9-5.

WHEN YOU’RE NOT WORKING, WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

I have a little girl, so ‘free time’ is a bit of a contradiction in terms these days, but when I’m not working I like to spend time with my daughter and family or play golf.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION OR FAVOURITE SHOT?

If it’s a brand shoot, they are mostly dictated by the artist/talent, or art director –so I usually have a fairly specific brief to fulfil. However, if it’s a personal shoot or editorial — or something for a brand that I’m directing — I’m able to push my creativity. I love working on a concept to communicate a brand’s personality and ethos through imagery, and I like to stay true to my style of hairdressing, but still create beautiful and wearable hair.

quick fire favourites

TO VISIT: WENTWORTH GOLF CLUB

TO LISTEN: STEVIE WONDER –SONGS IN THE KEY OF LIFE

TO WATCH: FOOTBALL, GOLF, MASTERCHEF, GRAND DESIGNS

TO EAT: LOCANDA LOCATELLI –TAGLIATELLE WITH RABBIT RAGU 1 3 5 4 2

TO READ: MY DAUGHTER MARGOT AND I LOVE STICKMAN!

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT?

Tracksuits and Jordan 1s. I don’t think I’ll ever move out of “lockdown wear”! However I do love putting a suit on for an event…

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

Winning London Hairdresser of The Year is still my proudest moment when it comes to an award win. Working with talent also, like looking after Billie Eilish for The Brits was an amazing day for me because of how incredible she is and what an amazing performance she gave. Going to Brazil on a private jet with Liam Payne was also a real ’pinch-me’ moment; it allowed me to sit and reflect on where my career had gotten to and all of the opportunities I have been given.

FOLLOW OUR insta @prohairmag

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are especially interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of Professional Hairdresser. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information

BaByliss PRO..........................................................(pages 36,37) www.rdr.link/HAF100

The Hair and Beauty Charity......................................(page 10) www.rdr.link/HAF101

Goldwell/KPSS....................................................(pages 2/IFC,3) www.rdr.link/HAF102

Great Lengths......................................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAF103

La Riche..........................................................................(page 30) www.rdr.link/HAF104

Passion for Hair................................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAF105