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MAY 2021
Professional MAY 2021
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ISSUE 05
First Four Weeks
FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag
Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk
One month back in the salon and your feet haven’t touched the ground! Social Media has been ablaze with positivity and creativity simply oozing out of salons up and down the country: Happy hairdressers and ecstatic clients showing off their new haircuts and colours. One month in and are we seeing new trends emerging? Have the expected ‘grey embracers’ materialised? Are some clients a little wary of parting with their longer locks? Our Post Lockdown Trends (page 24) looks at what you are anticipating the latest looks to be moving forward into summer. One month to mull over the business side – from past lockdown experience, we all know recovery is not just about the first few glorious weeks of re-opening. Business recovery will take time. The NHBF has just issued a ‘State of the Industry’ survey which shows the fragile future of the hair and beauty industry with the sector divided and 46% of respondents unsure if their businesses will survive until the end of social distancing. The NHBF is calling for a prolonged period of stability and recommends the most beneficial policy measures that will give the hair and beauty industry a fighting chance of recovery. Full details can be found on our website www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk, where you can also find all the business articles that we publish in the magazine – all written to help you navigate through these unchartered waters of recovery.
REGULARS 6
Assistant Editor
24 POST LOCKDOWN
NEWS Industry goings on
mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk
PEOPLE
Digital Manager
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rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager
Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon
oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
COLLECTIONS
PRODUCTS
33 PHIL COLLINS
58 STEP BY STEP With Great Lengths
12 BaByliss PRO’s Jody Taylor
34 CAROLINE SANDERSON
60 What’s New
16 TALENT SPOTTING With Pauline McCabe
35 NOCO
62 REPAIR PRODUCTS
37 SLICK
COLOUR
38 SKILL ZONE With P4h
63 SPOTLIGHT On Leyton House Professional
BRIDAL
64 SPOTLIGHT On Goldwell
19 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Get the look with L’Oréal Professionnel 20 CONQUERING COLOUR With Clayde Baumann 21 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Joico
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
44 ON TREND
32 PHIL JACKSON
HOOKER & YOUNG With Sam Burnett
Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon
FASHION
30 PHIL SMITH
Carol Padgett Production Assistant
COVER: Mark Leeson PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
BUSINESS
Megan Danskine
Rebecca Mcgeoch
TRENDS
MAY 2021
42 BRIDAL Q&A With Great Lengths 43 BRIDAL Collection With Great Lengths
66 SHOTS! Looks you love 67 LAST WORD The ED-it
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2021 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
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July 19 - June 20
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@ProHairMag
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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
Hair Heros
REMI CACHET BAG BEST ETHICAL HAIR INITIATIVE AT MARIE CLAIRE HAIR AWARDS.
Anne on apprenticeships Anne Veck speaks with Prime Minister Boris Johnson on hair apprenticeships. Anne Veck recently took her seat at the (virtual) table for her first Cabinet Office Meeting to discuss the state of play in the world of hairdressing and apprenticeships. The round table was led by Boris Johnson, senior Cabinet Ministers and the other business leaders. Each participant was invited in turn to speak and the topic given was: what can Government learn from your experience in skills and training to help us Build Back Better from the pandemic? The areas presented by Anne included data that there were just 7,000 entrants in 2020, down 30% previous year. 75% of employers are planning to cut back according to government’s own report. Anne presented ideas as part of the conversation of how can government help to build back better post-Covid? “I acknowledged the government action of the £3,000 grant when new apprentices are recruited and talked about additional and welcome dispensation to make completing hairdressing apprenticeships “easier.” by easing Covid close contact restrictions. I made the point strongly that hairdressing is an industry with huge career scope, and yet suffering a skills shortage so it has enormous scope for recruitment and career opportunity. I even managed to squeeze in a pitch for the VAT to be reduced to 5% on services. The one thing I ran out of time to offer was a haircut for the P.M. once we are out of lockdown!!” reported Anne.
Remi Cachet has been awarded a Hair Hero award by Marie Claire for the Best Ethical Hair Initiative in the magazine’s latest Hair Awards. The idea of not filling landfill with hair waste and putting it to good use for the environment and Remi Cachet appealed to the judges. No one wants to see their hair extensions swept up and put in the bin, so back in 2018 hair extension brand Remi Cachet created their Hair Extension Recycling Scheme for stylists and hair extension lovers to simply send their old extensions back to be re-used again for cleaning up the world’s oceans. With limited choice to re-use extensions and with a view to encourage ‘greener’ efforts in the industry, Remi Cachet opened the scheme to all hair brands and all types of
extensions from the beginning. On winning, founder Victoria Lynch commented: “We are so pleased to have the Hair Recycling Scheme recognised by the industry with this award and find a better use for the unwanted hair. The initiative has led us to re-evaluate other areas to become more sustainable and develop all our packaging to be recyclable. It’s great to see so many salons becoming greener and taking part in the hair recycling scheme.”
Record breaker
NOCO HAIR DIRECTOR, NOEL HALLIGAN, HAS ENTERED THE RECORD BOOKS AFTER RUNNING THE VIRTUAL LONDON MARATHON.
Noel, co-founder of the Bristol salon, did 10 laps of the Bristol Harbourside and raised more than £2,000 for Penny Brohn UK to help people live well with cancer. The salon regularly works and raises money for the local charity. Noel is no stranger to running events and is a regular at marathons around the UK, but the latest marathon had to be done virtually due to the pandemic. Usually held in April, the 2020 event was put back to October once the country came out of
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lockdown. This week he received his Guinness Book of Records certificate of which he is very proud. “I’ve always wanted to break a world record and me and my friend were going to try and be the fastest people to run a marathon in a two-person costume, but the race was postponed and he had a baby so couldn’t do it. So I went ahead and ended up with a world record anyway! The record was for 39,000 people running a virtual marathon at the same time.”
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Pure partnership Authentic Beauty Concept announces partnership with Green Salon Collective Authentic Beauty Concept is proud to announce its partnership with Green Salon Collectiv: the new authority on sustainable salon solutions. With a pledge to ‘recycle the unrecyclable’, GSC works with salons to recycle hair, colour, bleach, foils, colour tubes, PPE, plastic and paper. Since its launch in July 2020, GSC has partnered with more than 250 salons and achieved major milestones, including: ● Diverted more than 400kgs of hair towards cleaning waterways and gardening projects. ● Recycled more than 2.3 tonnes of used foil and colour tubes. ● Recycled and recovered more than 230L of leftover colour and bleach, plus more than 200kgs of PPE and Plastic.
Sustainability is at the heart of Authentic Beauty Concept and conscious decisions are made across the brand at every touchpoint: from the sustainable, carefully-selected ingredients used in the fully vegan range of products, to the refill bars installed in salons to reduce single-use plastics and encourage a circular economy. As part of the brand’s ongoing commitment to supporting salons in their sustainable efforts, Authentic Beauty Concept is now proud to have joined Green Salon Collective and will be working closely with the organisation to help hairdressers across the country incorporate their easy-to-use recycling bins and pick-up service, as well as through education and accreditation.
JOICO is now officially PETA certified as free from animal testing in ingredients, formulations or finished products anywhere in the world. Congratulations JOICO!
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PEOPLE
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL INTERNATIONAL AMBASSADORS
HOOKER AND YOUNG
In Conversation CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HA001
Michael: So, let’s start at the beginning, was it always going to be hairdressing for you? How did you get into the industry? Sam: I think I was always going to be a hairdresser! Even from the age of three, when I would have bath time – it was Sam’s salon and I would do my brother’s hair. Growing up it was just me, my mum and my brother and we didn’t have very much so my mum would do home hairdressing every night as well as working full-time in a salon. I would spend my life passing perm rollers! I would always go into work with her on a Saturday too, so I’ve always been around it and just loved it. I’m dyslexic so I’ve always been better at hands on stuff. At school I was really good at textiles and woodwork and also loved drama. I did do well at school but never at exams – but I guess my other career choices would’ve been either photography or acting, but that said I always struggled with acting because of my dyslexia and not being able to read the lines. So yeah, I was always going to do hairdressing! Michael: It’s funny that you say acting and photography were your other two choices/passions, as mine were the same. I always knew whatever I chose as a career it would have to be something creative.
with... Sam Burnett Sam Burnett is one of hairdressing shining stars. Never someone to push himself into the spotlight, yet his name is synonymous with beautiful fashion forward hair. Award winner, session stylist and business owner – we jumped at the chance to chat with the very lovely Mr Sam Burnett.
Gary: Where was your first hairdressing job? Sam: It was a work experience placement when I was just 14 at a salon on the Fulham Road. I did a couple of weeks there and that’s when I knew that this could be a good career choice for me. From there I got a Saturday job in a salon in Sutton called Garbo’s – it was a typical high street salon and the woman who owned it was so passionate about hair. She was the one who told me “you have an actual talent for this” and pretty much said to me that if I was going to take it seriously I should go and get an apprenticeship in a well-known salon. I ended up going to Denise McAdam in Green Park, just near Berkeley Square and that’s where I did my apprenticeship. I was there for three years and became her personal assistant and that’s how I got introduced to photo shoots and working with high profile clients. Michael: Didn’t Denise used to look after the Royal Family? Sam: Yeah, she did! Denise still has a Royal
Warrant – she was the first woman to own an independent salon in Mayfair and she still does some of the Royal Family. Denise is still a massive influence in my life and great for advice – I’ve actually covered for her on occasion where I’ve had the call to go to Buckingham Palace, which was pretty amazing actually. Gary: Are you allowed to say which Royal’s hair you did? Sam: Well… It’s quite controversial (haha) It was Prince Andrew! Michael: That is controversial! Was it for ‘the’ interview? (haha). Sam: No! (haha). It was about six months before all that happened. It was funny actually as I’d come straight from a job at fashion week when I got the call, so I was dressed really casually and when I got there I was briefed as how to greet him with this certain bow and told not to shake his hand. So, there I am very casual in a
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t-shirt and jeans and walk in – forget everything I’ve been told and say, “Oh hi, I’m Sam” and shook his hand (haha) so, clearly got it all wrong – but he just laughed.
Gary: What did you do during the 18-month gap? Sam: I actually rented a chair at a salon in Surrey and also did private clients a couple of days a week. I was pretty much was doing my music and fashion stuff the rest of the time – travelling a lot with Charli in L.A and New York. This time was also spent looking for premises for the new salon and working on the website.
Michael: When did you leave Denise McAdam and what was the reason for moving on? Sam: Denise made the decision to close the business and solely focus on her VIP list, so I got a job at John Frieda for a couple of months but that just wasn’t the right fit for me. RUSH had just opened in Sutton, which is my hometown. It was only their third salon, so they were pretty new. I walked in and Stell was actually in there painting the walls and I just ended up having a chat with him – we hit it off and that was it. I did my trade test with Andy Heasman – went for a drink that night and ended up becoming best mates and I stayed with RUSH for 14 years.
Michael: It sounds like it was a busy time! I’m guessing you need to be pretty flexible with your time when you’re working with a specific artist. months and eventually they agreed to let me enter the BHAs and go forward for the F.A.M.E Team. It ended up being an amazing year for me, I won Newcomer of The Year at the BHAs and a week later was chosen to be part of the F.A.M.E team! Then Stell said “Okay then, you can be on the Art Team”.
Sam: Yeah, absolutely – you need to be able to drop everything when you’re needed which is why it’s normally session stylists who do this kind of work. Trying to balance salon work with session work is really hard! Luckily, I had a very loyal and understanding client list.
Gary: You went to RUSH as a stylist? Sam: Well, (haha) I hadn’t officially qualified, but I was like “yeah, I’ve been a stylist for a year,” so kind of blagged it! I passed my trade test, I did a graduated bob and they were really impressed with it. Then I did some vardering and after the first day Andy said, “you have not been a stylist for over a year have you?” and when I said no, he was like “don’t worry,” and we trained for two weeks solidly until I was ready to go. Even once I was on the floor doing clients, I would go in on my day off and train with Andy until I was really up to speed. Gary: During your time with RUSH, did you ever own your own franchise? Or was your role more creative as a stylist and part of the Art Team. Sam: I had a salon with them for seven years – they wanted me to be the first franchisee. I was always really honest that I wanted my own salon – it was definitely a goal of mine. In 2006 I opened a partnership salon in Surrey – Andy, Stell and George owned half and I owned 49% of it. Michael: During your time with RUSH, were you part of the Art Team, travelling, doing shows and education? Sam: Yeah, it took me a while to make it onto the Art Team – it was Brett, Tina and Andy who were the team then. I was so passionate about all things creative and I would knock on Stell’s office door all of the time and ask if I could be on the Art Team and he’d be like “no you’re not ready – go away” this went on for about 18
Gary: These days everybody expects everything really quickly, but I do think when you put the time in and master your craft it comes to you eventually. Sam: Yeah definitely. Looking back Stell was right to make me wait – I wasn’t ready, even when I got on to the F.A.M.E Team, I wished I’d had more experience, but I guess that’s all part of the journey. I had loads of guidance from Tina and Andy which was amazing. Michael: So, you had your salon with RUSH for seven years, what was the deciding factor to leave the company and set up on your own? Sam: I joined RUSH when I was really young and the company was relatively new with a really small team. I’d grown with the company and had this incredible opportunity to be in there from the beginning. I started doing a lot more creative work and fashion shows with Tina which led onto music stuff and I got to work with an artist called Charli XCX for a few years. She really rocketed at the time so I got to travel with her doing music videos, red carpets and music festivals. All of this took me out of the UK a lot so I wasn’t in the salon much and it just naturally got to a point where I was ready to do something different. Gary: Where and when did you open your first salon? Sam: In 2014 I opened my first salon near Oxford Circus, and I’d left RUSH about 18 months before that.
Gary: It sounds like it was an exciting time, were you not tempted to stick with the session side of things? Sam: It was really busy and I was having a great time, but I really missed being part of a team. The session stuff pays good money, but if you’re not working, you’re not earning. Opening the new salon was partly about being part of a team again and having a base, a hair home – but also about having financial security for the future. I had juggled both for a long time and just needed a steady life again – so I still do some music stuff but I’m in the salon a lot more. Michael: Has what you want out of your career changed as you’ve got older? Do you have different aspirations now? Sam: Yeah, I guess so. Working with a music artist is fun, but it’s 24/7 and you’re basically part of their crew. It’s parties and late nights and you’re expected to be there with them all the time. I’m a real home body now – I love taking my dog for a walk, I’ve got godchildren and I really want the time to be with them now. Michael: I totally get, it’s like something happens and makes you look at your life and the pressures you put on yourself and then you know it’s time to make some changes. Sam: When I first opened the salon, I was still working with Charli and I’d started doing stuff for Dua Lipa – so I was juggling two music artists, running the salon, training the team and I’d also just taken on a role as UK Ambassador for KMS
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PEOPLE
which involved global work. It was just getting ridiculous, I seriously think I was close to having a nervous breakdown – I just didn’t have a day off, ever! I actually started seeing a therapist and started down the road of trying to look after myself a bit better, and that’s when I got my dog – to then have reason to be able to say no to things or at least consider things differently. Michael: This is something we hear a lot of now when chatting with people – working at that pace finally took its toll on you mentally and physically?
Sam: Yes, absolutely! I don’t have any regrets as it’s the press that these things created that helped to grow the ‘Hare & Bone’ brand and business. It’s funny though, I’ve been thinking about this a lot recently and there’s this whole culture of younger people coming through who want to get paid for everything from the start. It’s definitely made me think that I wouldn’t have got where I am today if I hadn’t put myself out there and done the free work in the early days. Every opportunity leads on to something else, assisting or just watching someone is so valuable.
Sam: Absolutely! I had literally got to the point where I would get really unwell. I remember being on shoots for KMS and I was so rundown. It’s only really when I look back that I realise how bad it was – I don’t think you know when you’re in it. I’m good at dealing with stress and often perform better in certain situations when I’m a little stressed but looking back I made a lot of personal sacrifices – missed a lot of family events and to be honest I wasn’t really enjoying what I was doing anymore and it was then that I knew I had to change things.
Gary: I’d like to think that young aspiring hairdressers would still put themselves out there and take every opportunity – but many seem more focused on their social media profile than physically putting themselves out there.
Gary: What personal changes did you make?
Gary: I totally accept that the modern world is different and high numbers of followers are important to people but, it shouldn’t influence how good somebody is in the hairdressing industry. I fear that the wrong people get the opportunities from manufacturers and the truly skilled people out there don’t have a platform.
Sam: I stopped trying to be so controlling, gave myself a lunch break every day, started having holidays and got my dog which was the best thing. I think really just taking more time for me, putting personal things in the diary and committing to them. Gary: And what about the changes in your professional life? Sam: I used to say ‘yes’ to absolutely everything! I remember one day I was heading up a show for BaByliss and the same day I was shooting a campaign with Rankin for a make-up brand – so I said yes to both and had to be in two places at the same time! The stress was ridiculous – looking for 20 people to work on the show, four people to be on the shoot. You start to lose control over the quality of what you’re doing. So, I made the decision to stop heading up shows at Fashion Week and slow down with the music stuff which would allow me to focus on the business, this is when I brought in Jamie Benny as Art Director to help get the team really strong. Michael: It’s funny hearing you say that you would say ‘yes’ to everything – that’s exactly what we used to do! But isn’t it all of those things that have put us where we are today?
Gary: Has COVID changed the way you run your business? Have you made any changes that will stay once restrictions are lifted? Sam: Yeah, we’ve definitely made some changes, it came as such a shock for everyone! After all of the initial worries we figured out what changes we needed to make to ensure the efficient running of the salons. This time we’re looking to introduce a new menu of high impact/low-cost services that will work for those with cost issues. Logistically the London salon took more of a hit than the Surrey salon simply because of the client base being professional people that were no longer in the city. The Surrey salon however flourished in the months that we were able to open.
Sam: Well, it’s the whole ‘Instafame’ culture isn’t it – I really think there’s this whole culture of people wanting to be famous for the sake of ‘being famous’ and not just in hairdressing – it’s the modern world.
Sam: That’s the problem right there – it sends out the wrong message to people, that you don’t need to grow your skill set, refine it or work hard – you just need to master how algorithms work and how to get yourself online. I think manufacturers have a responsibility to support the skilled people. There are some insanely talented hairdressers out there who also use social media incredibly well which is a great model when used together. I always believe that the cream always rises to the top – true talent will always shine through. Michael: You have two salons now, when did you open the second one and what was the motivation to have two? Sam: I always said I’d open a second salon when the time was right, and we were at full capacity in London so seemed like the right time to expand. I always wanted a salon is Surrey, it’s where I’d been with RUSH and I had built up a client base around that area. I drove past the site and just knew it was the right one.
Michael: : Is there a particular career highlight? Sam: I think heading up my very first fashion show as Sam Burnett – I felt totally out of my depth, but it had always been an ambition to do it. It was a big deal and I suddenly realised that I didn’t know enough people to come and help me so I was ringing around everyone saying ‘can you come and help me? Also winning Newcomer at the age of 23 was a massive highlight! It taught me a lot about myself and what was possible within the industry. Michael: Any future ambitions? Sam: It’s always been an ambition of mine to get a nomination for British Hairdresser of the Year which would be incredible! But I genuinely want to give back to the industry which is why I’m heading up Project X for the Fellowship currently and I love it. Sam is such a genuinely lovely guy who has a huge passion for hair and the hairdressing industry. His story is one of hard work and ambition which has led himself and his team to huge success both creatively and in business. His words “true talent will always shine through” couldn’t be truer of himself. We salute you Sam Burnett!
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TAYLOR MADE TALKING TALENT AND TOOLS WITH JODY TAYLOR. Jody Taylor is a freelance men’s session stylist who has been in our industry for 22 years. He’s worked on tons of campaign and editorial shoots with some of the top brands and magazines alongside being an Ambassador for BaByliss PRO. He’s just launched a talent agency for men’s hairstylists and barbers so we caught up with him to find out what Leftside Creative is all about.
What kickstarted this idea? I had an agent for five years, Premier Hair and Make-up, who were really amazing. But before I signed to them I was looking for agencies and wanting to get inspired by looking at other people’s work, the big dogs, for my mood boards. I was always looking for the men’s hair artists and on each agency there was probably only one person specifically doing men’s hair. It was almost just a little sideshow, it was never the main focus. I saw that there wasn’t a place for men’s grooming. So I’d been with my agency for five years and last year I left them for no reason other than that I wanted to start up on my own. But then the pandemic hit and nobody was working so it was left on the back burner.
So Jody, tell us about your new venture... Leftside Creative is an agency that’s focused on male grooming. It’s about trying to support artists and give them a helping hand and almost to pimp them out and get them working in the session world. I want to give the people I sign a bridge between the barbershop and fashion by making people aware of who they are and the quality of their work. They’re guys that haven’t assisted so they need help because they’re coming straight from a salon. They need a little bit of direction but their ability is second to none.
that other people are doing, we’re just going to make people aware of you.
I’m really focussed on finding people who share the same obsession for men’s hair that I do. You’re obsessed with men’s hair, you love fashion and you’re a nice person and you should be able to be doing the session work
Leftside is very small at the moment and we’re not trying to compete with the big boy agencies. We’re just trying to become a platform for people with potential to really have a chance of stepping up into the fashion world.
I’ve got a few people that I’ve worked with and have always kept in contact with. So at the end of last year I just thought, I’ve got people that are amazing and want to be a part of this…
Most used app on your phone? Instagram A skill you’re working on mastering? Fading Favourite drink? Guinness
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Favourite haircut to do? A wedge Who do you turn to for support? My mum
Who are you working with at the moment? The guys that are signed with me right now are Tariq Howes and Charlie Gray, two of my absolute favourite artists in the UK. They’re two of my favourite artists in the UK anyway and they’re also my friends. It was important to me that the people that are part of this are people that I want representing the brand and representing me. They’re both very humble and there’s no ego there whatsoever and they’re people that I’d want to spend my time with.
TOOLS...
Session stylist icon? Gary Gill
Part of what I think will make us different is that we are actually doing work together. One because it’s really nice bonding, and it allows us to work as a team and I couldn’t think of two better to people to have with me as Leftside grows.
Must have tool... BaByliss PRO Super Motor Skeleton Trimmer
And what’s next for you? The agency is something I really want to get myself stuck into and it’s something I want to continue doing once I stop doing hair. The next ten years really should be the pinnacle of what I’ve been building up to. Is it dreaming? I don’t know, but I want to step up to the next level and be heading shows for major fashion labels, and be working with luxury brands.
Leftside Creative
How do you fit in managing your own agency alongside everything else that you do? So as well as Leftside Creative, I also have all of my session work and regular clients. I’m also an ambassador for BaByliss PRO so I work really closely with their team. At the moment we’re working on something very new which is super top secret.
Leftside Creative
Working with brands is all about collaboration and my role with BaByliss PRO is just as much consultanting as anything else, picking out key trends, working on launch plans, planning shoots and everything else. Having a role with a brand that makes you proud to be associated with them is the ultimate dream for anyone in our industry. It kind of makes work not really feel like work.
Leftside Creative
Leftside Creative
I enjoy my work when I know I’m progressing and improving and whether it’s through research, studying or practicing, I’m always striving to become as good and as knowledgeable as I possibly can be at my skill. So I want to continue with that. And whether that’s going to take me to the places I want to be or not, as long as I’m doing that it makes me happy and content. That to me is the best thing you can do. As long as I stay true to that philosophy I’ll work with a smile on my face.
Visit www.leftside-creative.com or @leftside_creative on Instagram. You can find the man himself at @jodytaylorhair or check out BaByliss PRO at @babylissprouk.
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Sara Allsop
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PEOPLE
Talent spotting down under
As a stylist, salon owner, educator, art director and mentor, PAULINE McCABE’s love of art has defined her career and ensured that her hair work is always creatively a cut above. Her keen eye knows a good ‘egg’ when she sees one, and she’s joined forces with Pro Hair to introduce us to some real Aussie gems that will inspire us Say hi to Sara Sara Allsop has obtained her reputation as one of New Zealand’s top editorial and session stylists through her relationship with her leading fashion magazines and designers as well as her many award wins, including Hair Expo NZ Hairdresser of the Year three times. Sara leads by example by working internationally each season at New York, London, Paris and Milan – as well as Couture Fashion Weeks, assisting top hair artists on shoots and shows such as Luigi Murenu, Guido Palau, Anthony Turner and Tina Outen. As well, Sara has led on shows at NZ Fashion Week since 2005. She has art directed and produced shows and shoots both locally and internationally for leading product companies. Co-owner and founder of Dharma salons, Industry Extracted Event and Industry NZ Hairdressing Awards, Sara is dedicated to the growth of the NZ hairdressing industry in its entirety and has developed many initiatives for young NZ hairdressers over the years to include the Industry Creative Young Artist Team, Protégé Competition, and the Hair Expo Australia Gen Next NZ. Sara is driven to providing platforms for young NZ talent to showcase their work. What product do you think the world can do without? Additives and preservatives in our food.
What is that one joke that you cannot tell without laughing hard? This is going to sound terrible, however whenever my husband hurts himself (not seriously of course), I just can’t stop laughing, and when I relay the story back to people I can’t help but laugh! Unfortunately my daughter has the same trait and it’s just awful if we are together when he hurts himself!
Money or fame? Hmmmm, happiness before anything then money.
What good happened to you today? My son came home from university for his first semester break. I’ve missed him so much!
What do you spend most of your time doing? Equally both gardening and cooking.
When you are gone, what would you like people to remember you by? I’m not really bothered by what other people remember me by, all I hope is that my family remembers me with a smile.
What do you spend way too much money on? Pre COVID it was on travel, now it’s probably on other people. I get so much joy in giving.
Where is your happy place? Baylys beach, Dargaville where we have our lifestyle block. It brings me so much joy being on the rugged west coast of New Zealand.
What is the most impressive skill you have? I think most people would say my cooking.
What smells make you happy? Freshly cut grass. What are the four words you use the most? Oh yep (with an eye roll emoji) Choice F@*k Yumbo
What was the last thing you searched for on your phone? Shipping containers...my next project is a shipping container tiny home to put on our lifestyle block at the beach for guests to come and stay.
What is the biggest change you want to make in your life? Moving out of the city to the beach. What is your best piece of advice? Do what makes you happy.
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GET THE LOOK
Before: Natural base 4 with red undercoat. Step 1: Lighten with Blond Studio Clay + 40 volume L’Oréal Professionnel Developer. Apply Blond Studio Clay Powder to lighten sections evenly around the head. Develop for 30-50 minutes depending on desired results. Step 2: Neutralise and Gloss with Dia Light 8.21 + 9 volume Dia Activateur. Apply Dia Light 8.21 to the whole head to give a cool multi-tonal result. Develop for up to 10 minutes.
Before: Natural base 5 with red/orange undercoat. Step 1: Lighten with Blond Studio Multi-Techniques 8 Bonder Inside + 30 volume L’Oréal Professionnel Developer. Apply using a face framing technique around the front, then a feathered application technique under the parting. Develop for 30-50 minutes depending on desired results. Step 2: Neutralise and Gloss with Dia Light 9.13 + 10.23 + 6 volume Dia Activateur. Apply Dia Light 9.13 at the root and Dia Light 10.23 to the mid-lengths. Develop for up to 10 minutes.
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL BRINGS YOU ITS NEW TWO-STEP COLOURING TECHNIQUE, FRENCH BALAYAGE THREE WAYS.
Before: Natural base 4 with red undercoat. Step 1: Lighten with Blond Studio 9 Levels + 30 volume Blond Studio Oil Developer. Globally apply Blond Studio 9 levels using an enclosed lightening technique. Develop for 30-50 minutes depending on desired results. Step 2: Neutralise and Gloss with Dia Light 9.21 +10.21 + 9 volume Dia Activateur. Apply Dia Light 9.21 at the roots and 10.21 to the mid-lengths. Develop for up to 10 minutes.
WWW.RDR.LINK/HA002
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 19
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Conquering Colour Continuing his series, BHA Colour Technician of the Year 2020 and Global Colour Director at D&J Ambrose, Clayde Baumann, grants us an in-depth look at each of the stunning images in his winning collection.
T
here is no doubt in my mind that one month back in business has resurrected every hairdresser to a renewed state of purpose. It has been so inspiring and motivating to see all the positive vibes on social media. Equally matched to this, is the energy in the salon with beaming smiles from relieved clients who after another four months of lockdown, have finally been able to resume a healthy beauty regime.
Personally, I was anticipating a measurable loss in colour clients with a demographic forming of clients who are looking to “embrace the grey” and so I have started planning some colour treatment plans to offer these clients so that we don’t lose valuable revenue. It has however been an exciting development to find that clients now more than ever want more expressive colour. I have personally noted a lot more requests for “a little added something” and it’s been nice to see that most clients now want to feel rejuvenated with a fresh, new look. Cue the fourth image from my latest, winning BHA collection. Think Pink!
The Look This show-stopping pink was originally shot for my 2019 Collection: OPUS and features a revolutionary way of using ‘Expressive Colour’: by leaving it in the hair. Best suited to short hair types and on a model/client with a textured haircut, this colour is created by diluting a bright shade with a white to pastelise it. For added creativity, the product can be blended with a wet-look styling aid and left in the hair to set for a more ‘eventful’ or state-of-the-art festival hair vibe.
Let’s talk technique My top tip for creating the perfect bespoke shades on pre-lightened hair: When creating a new bespoke shade, I always place the mixing bowl on the scale to record the measurements but creation of the actual tone is done visually. As I place the various additives in the bowl, I record them so that if I do discover a great tone, it’s recorded for future use. NOTE: This only works with Expressive Colours like Wella Colour Fresh: CREATE.
Make it salon-relevant Whilst I think there may only be a few clients who will brave the sculpted wet-look, there is something to offer up in the festival season, however I feel this imagery is a great way to reference pastelised toners and introduce your dedicated ‘bleach blondes’ to a new world of colour. My hero product to maintain these beautiful effects for the client at home is the all-new Wella Colour Fresh Hair Masks. These don’t only offer up hundreds of new colour combinations that your client can reproduce at home but they also leave the hair feeling in excellent condition.
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COLOUR CLOSE-UP
Live your best BLONDE LIFE With JOICO Blonde Life, anyone can live their best blonde life no matter their background, hair type or hair colour. Ready to help the world see blonde hair in a whole new light? With the launch of the JOICO Blonde Ambition, celebrate the beauty of individuality and the confidence to take any client - undefined by hair type, hair colour, complexion, or lifestyle – from dark to light! The JOICO Blonde Life lightener is here to unite us with brilliant lift that knows no bounds! With the JOICO Blonde Life Lightening Powder, going bombshell blonde no longer means sacrificing healthy-looking hair. Used for highlights, on and off scalp, the lightener contains bond-building Arginine, Tamanu and Monoi oils for beautiful blonde hair. It produces maximum lift of up to 9 levels, in JOICO’s fastest processing time yet. nine out of ten stylists agree that after one use, blondes are brighter, softer, shinier and more hydrated*.
BEST BLONDE EVER JOICO Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo, Conditioner, Masque and Oil contain strand-strengthening, bond-building Arginine and the same exotic, nutritious blend of oils as the powder, banishing the challenges of brassiness, off-tones, fading and damage that blondes face on a daily basis. JOICO says that with Blonde Life, you really will have more fun! Check out the products in the range as well as step-by-step tutorials on the JOICO website. WWW.RDR.LINK/HA003 *When using Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Coniditoner/Masque, which preserve over 80% of haircolour after 18 washes.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21
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Thomas Hills
The salons are full again and summer is truly on the horizon, so clients are sure to be looking to switch up their styles after a year of ‘the same old’. We’ve spoken to the experts to see what they think the customers in your chair will be asking for this season.
Time for
Change
I think bobs with fringes will be a big hit post lockdown, as it will be one of the most effective ways for a client to feel they can make a return to the more polished, slicker version of themselves that lockdown may have erased. The sharp, chic fringed bob epitomises the inherent drama within such a sleek narrow 80s silhouette: while big voluminous hair is flirty and exudes sex appeal, this post-lockdown shape will be more theatrical and commanding. Thomas Hills, Director of TH1 Hair
THE BOB Think The Crown’s Emma Corrin, low maintenance and chilled. I think the ‘New Diana Bob’ is going to be a big feature for 2021 - think less classic bob and more shattered edges with an undone texture. The key to making this look work is to style it well, and for that you’ll definitely need a good dryer and a good texture spray. Make sure to use a diffuser when drying the hair and then go over using a large barrel wand to create the bends and shape. Syd Hayes, BaByliss PRO Ambassador
I am expecting to see a lot more gorgeous, wearable and more lived in bobs post lockdown. A lot of my clients are already telling me they are ready to embrace wearing their hair slightly longer than normal, especially my more mature clients who wouldn’t normally consider growing their hair – they have had to embrace it by default and I am sure they will love the results. Kerry Mather, KJM Salons
© Getty Images
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TRENDS
Trends for SS21 are all about low maintenance face framing and money pieces… Giving the hair life by making the front area pop again is a great profitable service for your salon as it’s at the front of the face where your clients see so this is a game changer. You will see guests return for their six week maintenance as they hate to see roots at the front. Peter Mellon, Medusa Salon Director
I’m predicting a move towards gorgeous honey and caramel shades – people will be growing their full head of colour out with a move towards face framing highlights and gorgeous warm tones to really compliment the skin tone. Kerry Mather, KJM Salons Kerry Mather
Blonde is going to have a moment from caramel infused tones with the Bardot Blonde to the ‘Reel Blonde.’ We will be using the ‘Balayage Blur’, which is a technique only the pro knows. It is about looking at the hair and personalising the colour to enhance the hair’s natural tone and with healthy and glossy shadow roots. We will see ‘High Definition Hair’ which is all about the hair looking in its best possible condition with a colour that really pops! For this look it’s like with lip gloss on the lips but for your hair and is the perfect add on service to see maximum effect with minimum effort. Adam Reed, Adam Reed London, L’Oréal Salon Partner
THE BLONDE Think warm sunny blondes with blurry balayages and face framing pieces.
Darrel Starkey-Gettings
Yes, blondes are back and ready to take over the colour world. Caramel and honey blondes will be the shades of the season, adding warmth to the hair and complementing the summer complexions. Worn with a beautiful wave or textured look, the hair will have a relaxed, boho vibe. Darrel Starkey-Gettings
Our blondes who would normally be high maintenance looking after their re-growths, whether all over blonde/highlights or balayage, will be first in line for those appointments, and expect to see hair rested and in good condition after having a break from any colour services for quite a few months, so use this time for a full consultation, and now is the perfect time to add in some softer subtle blondes, to give more of a sun kissed feel, rather than such a bleached look. Think of complimenting the skin tone, maybe adding slightly lighter tones around the face to highlight. Remember, you have more natural colour to play with, so you can be creative with your colour placement to create shading within the haircut. The overall look is effortless variations of blondes with soft underlying warmth. Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional Global Colour Ambassador
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 25
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TRENDS
Tracy Hayes
Strong copper reds were a strong feature in 2020, and we are not yet ready to let go, and taking inspiration from Lockdown TV, 2 of the most talked about shows -‘Queen’s Gambit’ with the lead played by Anja Taylor-Joy and ‘The Undoing’ with the lead played by Nicole Kidman… both wearing soft coppers, this tone will remain to be a huge influence in 2021. Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional Global Colour Ambassador
THE COPPER Think bright and fiery, and ready to stand out.
Darrel Starkey-Gettings
I have seen a massive rise in guests changing their colour to copper. Unfortunately everyone’s hair lifts warm and everyone’s hair fades warm! What better way to give your client an easy life than to surrender to warmth, and who knows they might love it. With a lot of people missing their annual dose of sun people are looking paler and copper hair loves pale skin. Peter Mellon, Medusa Salon Director
Darrel Starkey-Gettings
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THE CURLY FRINGE Think effortless, loose and bouncy cuts. Think Zendaya. Hairstylists should work with their clients face shapes to tailor a look to suit the individual and adapting each look. Hair health has also been a big trend this lockdown and we will see clients wanting looks to make their hair look in the best possible condition. If your client is looking to try something more dramatic post-lockdown my advice would be for them to do their research and just go for it! If they want to change their style up without losing length – try a fringe!” Larry King, Larry King Hair Sally Brooks
Sally Brooks
The curly fringe is the must-have to update their look in an instant. Rather than one size fits all, a more individual approach is required, especially as one head can have varying different textures. We know that a little goes a long way when cutting curly hair and creating a great shape can last months. Traditionally fringes and curly hair have been thought of as a big no, but times are changing and we think curly fringes are a great way to give you an easy cool-girl style. There’s a plethora of fringe styles that suit curly hair anything super wide to short and micro will look great. For 2021, the longer fringe is perfect for curls, skimming the eyebrows and blending into the sides. Stevie Nicks may have been the original muse, but celebrities such as Zendaya, Lily Collins, Beyonce and Ciara have been rocking the look lately. Sam Ashcroft, Creative Team Member, Brooks & Brooks
THE WAVY PUSHBACK Think boyish floppy waves swept back boyband style. One benefit of lockdown was the forced experimental phase-out that hair went through. We quickly realised if long hair works or doesn’t, and for some it really does work. This wavy pushed back hair look must have length on the sides for this to work, it’s an anti-fade style with a distressed texture and worn off the face and tucked behind the ear. Product here is key here as you want controlled mess with volume throughout, so use volume mousse at the roots and blow-dry in on a slow speed. Jody Taylor, BaByliss PRO Ambassador
© Getty Images
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Thomas Hills
We will see people coming in with a desire to experiment more now than ever and people wanting to change up their looks. People are embracing their naturalness. I believe everything begins and ends with a great a haircut. The ‘Glam Shag’ is for someone who is looking to enhance their hairs natural movement, and this is a short and natural hairstyle that has texture. Luke Hersheson, CEO of Hershesons Salons
One of the biggest trends to emerge, I believe, will be shorter more versatile cuts that really encourage a client’s natural texture, with minimum effort required – think effortless shape and movement with a masculine, almost cherubim appeal. I also think clients will want to spend less time hair-drying their locks, opting for air-drying instead. Cuts like these two looks are the perfect example of preparation and shape within the cut, allowing for the perfect fusion of form and texture. Something I predict will be a huge hit in the forthcoming months. Thomas Hills, Director of TH1 Hair
The shag cut is a big trend and will be post lockdown with major inspiration from Billie Eilish, variations on that theme being prominent in women’s hair. Believe it or not but the mullet is back too! Don’t get too carried away though it’s not a dodgy 80’s look that should stay firmly in the past but a more modern refined textured finish. This is more of a twist on the shag haircut with hair behind the ears being kept a bit longer with lots of textured layers then moving forward the front and sides tends to be shorter with lots of added texture, it’s not crazy short but just enough to be noticeable. This is a great way to bring life into a look you might actually be growing out and we will see lots of these cuts making their way into summer. Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional Global Brand Ambassador
THE SHAG Think Miley Cyrus flat but textured movement with a natural feel.
© Getty Images
This haircut has had its fair share of dislike and ridicule over the years. But as with all trends if someone does it well it can become fashionable again. I’m a big fan of the 70s haircut and personally I love a good mullet too! Blow-dry some oil into the hair and remember you’re not looking for volume, so follow the dryer with a flat brush flat against the head. My top tip to style this out would be to use a large curling tong to create some movement around the face. Paul Percival, BaByliss PRO Ambassador
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TRENDS
THE SILVER Think natural enhancement or more bold metallic tones.
Thomas Hills
Post pandemic hair trends have seen a rise in salon guests embracing their natural hue and even welcoming greys. I found with our guests coming in and most of them enjoying their natural colour. Colour touch and clear glossings are a fantastic way to experiment with colours - colour touch offers a 50% coverage so for clients who may not be fully ready to commit to grey hair they could ease themselves in with something they are much more used to. I suggest you remind your client that grey will still come through and that colour touch offers a sheen of colour rather than matt coverage. Think of lipstick or lip gloss. The best bit, colour touch will fade out over time. This stops the harsh regrowth coming in and instead a much more blended area at the root – allowing a client to stretch their appointment for an extra week or so. Peter Mellon, Medusa Salon Director
Peter Mellon
Thomas Hills
I have always championed silver hair, and after a long, and very grey lockdown (in more ways than one), many clients will look to enhance their greys now rather than disguise them. Helped with the news that PANTONE 17-5104 – Ultimate Gray – is one of the colours of the year, I fully expect to see one of my favourite hues take centre stage helping to satisfy clients’ quest for vitality post lockdown. The natural and neutral tones will offer clients a feeling of resilience after what has been a very turbulent time. While grey and its many incarnations never go out of style, metallic silver is, for me, the next level of chic, and can really help to bring a haircut to life. I particularly love creating a multi-dimensional metallic tone, beautifully bold metallic silver, worn – as it should be – with a sharp, strong cut – is a serious statement and a colour that screams confidence with an icy-cool appeal. Thomas Hills, Director of TH1 Hair
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BUSINESS
The hairdresser who means
BUSINESS He’s one of the biggest success stories of British hairdressing. Having bought and sold multi-million-pound salon empires, launched his own best-selling product range and achieved some of the industry’s most significant accolades, PHIL SMITH puts his fortunes down to hard work and being the guy who was in the “right place at the right time”.
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Phil Smith’s resumé is stuffed with successes most other hairdressers could only dream of. By his early 40s, he owned 28 TONI&GUY franchise salons globally, with over 600 staff and annual sales of £16m. He went on to launch his own independent salon and two product ranges. He has a list of celebrity clients that includes rock star royalty and primetime stars, became a daytime TV regular himself, was nominated eight times for British Hairdresser of the Year and has scooped a clutch of other awards besides. And yet, when you meet him in the flesh there are scarce signs of the big
time. In fact, he’s humble, unassuming and more devoted to the simple things in life, like walking his two Westies, Smithy and Smudge. By his own admission, Phil says he’s not the best hairdresser. “I don’t rate myself creatively and I know there are better hairdressers out there. But I do have a million per cent determination.” Perhaps it’s that quiet drive, coupled with a reluctance to get swept up in his own hype that has kept him at the top of the game for over 35 years. Life could have looked quite different. Originally destined for a career in the police force, instead, almost by accident, Phil took a Saturday job at a salon while at college re-sitting his O Levels. “I’ve always been a hard worker, since the age of 12 I’d had either a paper round or a part-time job.” He went on to complete a YTS apprenticeship there Raymond’s in Guildford, Surrey - a salon outlet of the infamous ‘Mr Teasy-Weasy’, with a strict, old school dedication to discipline. Phil recalls that how diligently you scrubbed the toilets was the manager’s benchmark for quality in your work. A commitment to small details would translate to how well you cut hair. Even today, it’s a philosophy he lives by. “If you ever think you’re too important or too powerful to do the little jobs, you’ve lost it,” he says. Phil got his first real appetite for business success when he went to work at John Carne, also in Guildford. “John had a Porsche and a swimming pool and it blew me away. I saw what hairdressing could offer.” He credits Carne as being a savvy businessman with a great work ethic. Eager, enthusiastic and showing signs of
an emerging entrepreneurial spirit himself, Phil was keen to open his own salon and when a first attempt to launch in Guildford failed, he was introduced to Toni and Anthony Mascolo. TONI&GUY was on an upwards trajectory, taking over the British hair scene and looking for franchisees to capitalise on the potential of its lucrative salon brand. Despite the safety net of TONI&GUY, the route to success didn’t come easily. Phil struggled to make his first salon in Salisbury pay the bills. “The day Salisbury opened, I had just three clients,” he recalls. “I had to build the business from literally nothing. I was 23 years old with a loss-making salon and I was living in a house share.” Opening up another salon in nearby Bath soon after was both a risk and a masterstroke. He borrowed the money he needed to take on the extra franchise and it turned out to be a gamble that reversed his fortunes. Bath was a different story. Busy and profitable (taking three times as much as the Salisbury salon, in fact), it benefited from the cool factor TONI&GUY was enjoying in the 90s. Phil was the first TONI&GUY franchisee to have two salons and he was the youngest franchisee in the company. Eternally grateful to the late Toni Mascolo, Phil admits, “most of what I know in business came from him.” During the 90s, Phil’s empire was steadily growing – Swindon came next and he had soon opened up a string of salons across the South West. Hungry for creative recognition too, Phil won ‘Wales & South West Hairdresser of the Year’ three times and then a campaign for British Hairdresser of the Year began. He was
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nominated eight times. He also had a regular slot on the Lorraine show on daytime TV. When asked if he side-lined the creative side of his career in favour of business success, Phil is unconvinced that the two can exist equally. “I envied the creative talents of my peers. But while they were spending their time mastering the craft, I was wrapped up with delivering wages and managing cash flow.” Without any brand endorsements or sponsorship deals, Phil was self-funding his career and opportunities such as the British Hairdressing Awards were draining his finances. At the peak of his success, Phil had 28 TONI&GUY salons, not just in the UK, but also in Australia and Canada. He describes the good salons in his portfolio as keeping the bad ones afloat. Life was a juggle of spreadsheets and the minutiae of salon life. Eventually, even his
recently has switched to responsibly sourced palm oil and rejected single-use plastics in favour of 100% recycled and recyclable bottles. All production is UK-based and Phil is as hands-on as it gets; pouring over label designs and obsessing over formulations. Less than three years after giving up all but one of his TONI&GUY salons (his wife, Louise still runs the original one in Salisbury), Phil set about restoring a small, old woollen shop in Salisbury. Midway through the project and craving a new challenge, he decided it would be the perfect location for a salon. Smith England opened in 2013 and is influenced by the aesthetic of Soho House. It doesn’t just look good, it’s already winning awards for its fresh approach and enlightened commitment to creating a community spirit too.
“Whatever you do in life, you’ve got to work hard. There’s no quick or easy way to success.” family home was on the line. The big success had become a big stress and coupled with a health scare made him rethink his priorities enough was enough. But there was another enterprise that he’d set his sights on. A chance encounter with Umberto Giannini while on holiday with his family made up his mind. “A chat around the pool made me wonder if I could create my own product range. Umberto really was the inspiration,” Phil admits. “We got on like a house on fire and he became one of my best friends in the world.” It’s ‘happy accidents’ like this that Phil believes have shaped his destiny. While his profile was flying high off the back of his British Hairdressing Awards nominations, Phil had secured a deal with Sainsbury’s to endorse a product range with his name on it. When the range looked set to be dropped after 18 months, Phil was given the chance to fund his own line and sell it in. Originally a licensed deal with a product manufacturer, in 2007 Phil Smith Be Gorgeous – a range of haircare, electricals and accessories – was born. Craving more control, Phil went on to buy out the range to acquire exclusive ownership and today maintains full control of it. Nothing could have quite prepared Phil for how much effort he would put into his signature range. “It still blows my mind how hard it is. I mean, it’s just shampoo.” It wouldn’t be overstating things though to say, Phil Smith gives more than his name to the range. Overseeing every single detail of their production, he pours his heart and soul into every bottle. His products have seen quite an evolution since the first formulations appeared on the shelf. Pitching themselves as luxury products at affordable prices, the brand has a commitment to cruelty-free, natural ingredients and most
The salon is headed up by Phil’s daughter Ellie. In fact, both his children have followed the same path as their parents into hairdressing. “Ellie has a great work ethic,” he says proudly. “As well as running Smith England, she’s instrumental in the product range.” Meanwhile, his son George is displaying a real talent for men’s hairdressing, having already won an award at the Wella Trend Vision Awards. His advice for his kids is the same as he’d give to anyone else starting out, “Whatever you do in life, you’ve got to work hard. There’s no quick or easy way to success.” Discovering a love – and a talent – for products, it seemed a natural progression for Phil to harness his knowledge with the launch of another, more premium and natural-focused haircare range. Named after the salon, Smith England is a range inspired by the British countryside. Describing it as, “everything your hair needs, nothing it doesn’t”, it follows the clean, cruelty-free lead of Phil Smith Be Gorgeous with naturally derived ingredients and bottles made from 100 per cent fully recycled Post-Consumer Resin (PCR) plastic. While sold in Sainsbury’s as a commercial brand, Phil is set to challenge conventions by offering an adapted version of the range wholesale to salons too. “I think there’s a gap for a good quality, natural brand,” Phil says. Ever the businessman, he doesn’t just believe in the credentials of the formulations; he’s done the sums and he knows the range, Smith England Professional will offer good margins to salon owners too. It’s clearly tapped into a market in Sainsbury’s – the range will soon be re-positioned alongside more premium, lifestyle brands and there is talk of developing the range with body washes and shampoo bars. It all sounds like a full-time job. Or at least it might be for anyone else, but that relentless
drive means that Phil has his hands full with plenty of other schemes too. He’s passionate about restoring old buildings and recently completed a labour of love by resurrecting a neglected boat house in Salisbury. It’s the fourth building in the city he’s looked after for future generations to enjoy. He’s also mid-way through the restoration of a fisherman’s cottage in Cornwall – a place he plans to unwind, walk the dogs along the coastal path and maybe enjoy the odd bottle of nice wine. There are no plans to retire though, “I’ll keep working forever, albeit at a slower pace maybe,” he confesses. Having enjoyed the fortunes of his success over the years (“of course you get into business to buy nice things,” he admits) he claims he’s not motivated by money anymore. Smith England is the first not for profit salon in the UK. He shows up there twice a week to see longstanding clients, some of whose hair he’s cut for over 25 years, and he still just charges a modest £60 a haircut. So what does drive this quietly determined hairdresser then? “It brings me joy to see my products on the shelf and to work with a talented team of people,” he admits. “For that small win, I’ll keep on working my heart out.” On top of all this Phil is finding the time to write a new business series exclusively for Professional Hairdresser readers. Starting next month he will sharing his invaluable knowledge with you to help your business grow.
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CHANGE IT UP There’s still time to develop your marketing plan Business consultant PHIL JACKSON from Build Your Salon, offers these tips for developing a marketing plan for 2021.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA005
When the future is so uncertain, developing a marketing plan can be very tricky. Our biggest problem right now is that our best customers are no longer in the habit of coming to the salon. And they’ve managed without us for so long that we can’t convince them that it is essential they come back in – that message won’t resonate. Our marketing message needs to change. More positively though, we can tap into the massive surge of love for local businesses. Share your story with current and potential customers, why you started your salon business in the first place and what’s different about coming to you as opposed to going to an impersonal alternative. The more stories we can bring into our marketing, the more that marketing will resonate. Humans have passed stories along for thousands of years – it’s how we communicate best. Keep sharing personal stories in your marketing efforts. You should also keep communicating your safety messages in your marketing. While COVID remains a headline, safety is going to be a priority. Naturally and very understandably, there’s going to be anxiety around personal services. Reassure your customers that you are adhering to safety guidelines and doing everything you can to keep them healthy. While we’re looking for a new way to market, it’s a smart idea to keep cost comparison at the front of your customers’ minds as well. Position your salon visit as something indulgent, or to take care of their mental wellbeing, or a chance to decompress
and compare that to the holiday they can’t take. Suddenly that extra service in the salon looks like a bargain! Make sure that your marketing is lockdown proof. Make that Plan B for service offers and also plan on extending the validity of vouchers due to lockdown; though we all hope the worst is behind us we just never know. If you’ve followed my work for any amount of time you’ll know that I love salon memberships, but while the last of the uncertainty is floating about, don’t put salon memberships out into the marketplace. You can talk to your customers about whether they want a future salon membership, and even begin a waiting list, but it’s not the time to open that membership up. There are anti-Facebook vibes, which might affect your marketing. No matter what happens with Facebook and its subsidiaries, there is a fragmentation of the social media market which has been accelerated by Clubhouse. In the past, we’ve come to depend on a single platform to help us keep in touch with many different people (our friends and families, celebrities, and our customers). Those days are ending and your customers are starting to expect to speak to salons on a different platform to where they socialise. The great opportunity here is we can focus on expertise more – just select your chosen platform carefully. Whatever your direction, keep building that email list – not just a following on Facebook groups, pages, or Instagram accounts. Facebook can change their rules at any time but your own list is an asset that you control and that you can bring to new platforms in the future. We’re also seeing that those salons that kept in touch via email through lockdown are bouncing back the fastest – a lesson for the future, for sure. For more information: www.buildyoursalon.com
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BUSINESS
The importance of building a
COMMUNITY Co-founder of the incredible HAIR UNCUT COMMUNITY and founder of SALON EDGE, PHIL COLLINS has been in hairdressing for 25 years. CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA007
Having trained at Vidal Sasson prior to working for TONI&GUY all he knows there is to know about the difference between good and great hairdressing. He’s also channelled some of his hairdressing expertise into education, and cultivating new product growth. Lately he spends the majority of his time achieving his number one motivation, which is working as a coach, helping countless salon owners to improve their business acumen and in turn reaching their goals. Over the years being such a likeable chap Phil has forged true friendships in the industry, but no one quite fits the bill as well as school friend Jonathan Graham who has become his side-kick in the business. Currently attracting over 13k UK members and over 10k internationally – and growing weekly – together Phil and Jonathan manage to co-ordinate a series of events that help motivate, educate and enthral. If you would like to be part of this incredible community then head over to Facebook and search under groups for HairUncut, you can then send a request to join. They have also recently launched HairUncut VIP Collective which is an exclusive membership where you are part of a VIP group where you have exclusive access to a close group of amazing hair professionals. Mingle virtually with show guests and receive the latest education and business advice
COMMUNITY SPIRIT Certainly, in the hairdressing industry since the beginning of the pandemic we have seen several wonderful cases of community building and how it can connect people, but more importantly how you can bring a real sense of community to your salon and indeed your social media channels. Clients more than ever, want to be part of your community. It not only gives them a sense of belonging, but equally important is the fact that it allows you to open up the line of communication to promote your salon, and attracting new clients to your business, whilst addressing the crucial fact that you should be in a position wherein you continuously grow your community organically. Applying effective social media drives new clients to your salon so it’s important to implement it for your salon if you don’t already. Please however ensure that the posts reflect your message/brand and always keep in mind how much a new client is worth to your business. If your social media isn’t driving you consistent new clients on a regular basis, then your social media isn’t effective – it really is as simple as that. Remember your community love you and want to be in your world. Learn to think of your community as your tribe. So how does a ‘Chief’ act? You need to be both authentic and engaging every day. Honesty is always the best policy, believe me. Your clients want to relate to you and be in your world. I cannot stress how important it is for you to be building a community in these days of business. In recent years we have almost become obsessed with ‘followers’, ‘likes’ and ‘engagement’, across our social media channels. It is my belief however that it is time for us to be more targeted, encouraging a far more organic growth in our communities, which in turn will undoubtedly
increase the opportunities available to you and your business. IT’S ALL ACTUALLY QUITE SIMPLE – you want your followers to be your existing clients and potential new clients that are likely to visit your salon and spend money with you. Build your community using your existing followers but ensure you use your ‘community’ and in doing so are also targeting their friends and family. It’s time to think about your community as the database of your salon. Consider your brand, your tone of voice, how you want to be perceived and of course how you want to be talked about by both your existing and potential new clients. Who is your “Ideal Client”, what are their interests? What social media channels/groups do they follow and why? Be creative with your marketing – to your clients, also remember that some of your clients may not be on any of your relevant social media channels, so ask yourself ‘how can you connect with them?’ Although you may incur costs, you can think about the good old fashioned post. Clients’ really do appreciate receiving either a letter or a small flyer advertising a new service or just to say you are thinking of them. You could also consider this for non-returning clients to entice them back to the salon. Never be complacent – remember a fact that not all of your clients will be on social media – so how can you include these clients in your community? Building a community can be a full-time role, so initially ensure that your team members, as an extension of your brand, are part of your community. Ask them to support you both with ideas and content that can be shared with the community. Looking after your regular clients is crucial, we are all aware of this. But think about how you can drive new clients to your salon, what works, what doesn’t work. As with any business, it is essential that you ask your new clients how they heard about you. Start by introducing the words ‘community’ into your salon literature and also other marketing material. Remember community spirit. Communities need to be fun – so you need to enjoy building and engaging with your tribe as you watch them grow.
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PRICING FOR PROFITS CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA008
This month CAROLINE SANDERSON shares how to price for profit in your salon.
One of the biggest mistakes I see in salon pricing is the same as the one I made myself when starting out. Many look at what others are charging to get an average and price somewhere just above that point. Basing your prices on what others charge is fundamentally wrong because there are too many variables. You don’t know their expenses, if they are VAT registered or not or even the length of time they take to do a service. As salon owners, we need complete control of our numbers to know that when we set our price lists, every service is profitable.
There are two things you need to know when setting your prices: 1. Your break even costs: the costs for you to be able to trade 2. Your goals Once you set your goals, you can reverse engineer them to know what you need to take in your salon per week, per stylist to hit them. Knowing your break even means you can set your pricing based upon what each service should be per hour, even down to per minute to not only hit your revenue goals but your PROFITS. When selling a product, it’s standard practice to know the cost of buying that product and deliver to clients at a profitable price. Even so, many people pluck their figures from thin air without fully understanding upselling their services. We know that as the cost of product goes up, the price you sell it for will increase, if you don’t, your profits go down. The same applies to your services, yet many people find it difficult to charge what they need to in this area of their pricing. Within my town of Inverness, it used to be common for people to travel to Glasgow, Edinburgh and even London to get their hair done at top named salons, with clients only popping into Ego Hair Design for a quick blow dry. It was even common for young talent to head to other cities for training, which really installed a belief that the standard of hairdressing in our community wasn’t good enough. This belief created a huge drive for me to create change, making sure we enter awards at the highest level and offer the best training locally to ensure young talent don’t feel they need to leave the community for it. In doing so, the value of our local salon services elevated, allowing people to receive high-class treatments on their high street rather than having to travel afar. Salon owners often think their clients shop on price and therefore try to keep their prices as low as possible to cater to that. What they ignore are the premium paying clients who want to pay more for a high standard service. Some clients enjoy spending on themselves and feel it’s important to splash their hard-earned money on making themselves feel pampered. In some cases, the higher the price tag, the more appealing to the client as they feel
they are buying the best. Pricing is relative to each individual, and what you think may be expensive, won’t be to someone else. We should never make judgements or assume what someone is willing to pay. There are many salon owners who want high paying clients, yet don’t market to attract that demographic of clientele. If you rely on lower prices or discounts, you attract discount hunters who are searching for lower rates. If clients can see the value in what they are getting, they will pay more. When you demonstrate confidence in the services you provide, and the talent you and your team have, your clients pick up on it. Clients will pick up on when you are fearful and will question your price increase. Expenses go up every year; therefore your prices must follow. Unless you want to work for free or on less than the minimum wage you MUST price for profit and secure the pay-check you work so hard for. Focus on creating an experience that is so memorable to your clients, that when they hand over their hard earned cash, they feel they would have paid even more. People remember how you make them FEEL, not what the price was. Most would rather part with a bit more cash in exchange for a higher value service. When your prices rise, support this by making the experience even better, ensuring your clients feel incredible every step of the way. So in conclusion, know your goals, look at your costs, and then set your price with the aim of making a profit. Write your marketing messages to attract ideal, premium clients, providing them with experiences that will blow them away.
Caroline Sanderson, Owner of Ego Hair Design, and The Salon Jedi Click the link below to find more about upcoming courses and talks we have for this year. WWW.RDR.LINK/HA009
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BUSINESS
OUR LOCKDOWN LESSONS CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA010
What we’ve learnt, explain business partners Noel Halligan and Corey Taylor of NOCO Hair in Bristol…
The past 12 months have been like nothing the industry has experienced before. We are naturally sociable people, we work hard and play hard and run businesses that are at the heart of the community. So to have to have closed our doors for some eight months of the past twelve, has been difficult both mentally and emotionally. There were some bumpy and worrying times but there was one glimmer of positivity; we were suddenly blessed with lots of free time. While the world was making banana bread and learning a new language, many in our industry took to cycling, walking or art. Drawing, painting, DIYing and learning editing skills filled our days. Of course, we all missed our clients and creating amazing hair, but we all learnt something else. Time is precious and as we all re-open and see our columns bursting with clients, it’s important that we don’t forget some of the things we learnt during the pandemic. People are important We already knew that, but spending time with family and friends is really important. Do we all want to go back to a world of 12-hour days, seven days a week? Making time to spend with family and catching up with friends is invaluable for our mental health and something we should all make time for. Never again will we say no to an invite for a drink or not go to an event because we’re tired. We’ve certainly appreciated everything! Community is where the heart is We’ve always worked with local charities but 2020/21 has really shown us how getting involved in your community is integral to our business. As more people work and live in their local area, we offered free haircuts for charities to use as prizes or auctions, we offered style advice and got involved in local initiatives. Independent shops are the heart of high street and it’s important we carry on being part of the community spirit. Take time out Don’t put that book down you enjoyed reading – read some more! Just because we are back at work doesn’t mean we can’t take time out to read a book, go on a bike ride or run a marathon. Work can be all-consuming if you let it; so make some time when you think about something else. Learn wherever you are Hairdressers have always been good at learning new things and this year has shown us that education is all around us. Nothing replaces the intimacy of face-to-face training, but there are so many webinars, Facebook lives, tutorials and podcasts that refreshing skills or learning something new creatively and in business is accessible 24/7. Reading books from other business leaders and learning what works (and doesn’t) from people from other industries helps you stand out from the crowd and see things with a fresh pair of eyes. Website: www.nocohair.com Instagram: @nocohair
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BUSINESS
SUPPORT SYSTEM
As salons look to bounce back from COVID more and more businesses are using technology to stay ahead of the game. THE SLICK SYSTEM which is partnered with L’Oréal is the choice of many owners looking to make the switch.
Why is a system important in 2021? With GDPR regulations and more regulations around patch testing, it is vital that client information is kept safe and secure. A system does this and helps you stay compliant with the law. More than this it will save you time! From managing your wages to sending stock orders to your rep, a good system will save you hours of time which you can invest back into your clients. Launched in 2018, Slick is like a digital receptionist and business manager – with the simple objective of helping salon owners with affordable, easy to use technology and offering the tools to control every aspect of your business. Slick’s technology has been adopted by just under 1000 high street salons in the UK from multi-site chains to freelance rent-a-chair stylists – there is no contract and subscription fees start at £10 per month. The system benefits It is a system designed by hairdressers for hairdressers and is the only system integrated with L’Oréal. From processing time to pricing and timings per staff, Slick is customised around your salon. ● Education: All users get free training and free 7-day a week personalised support and education. They will even do the set up for you and import client contact details. ● It’s affordable: There is no contract or set up fee. ●
“The salon was traditionally pen and paper for years but our L’Oréal Area Manager suggested we look at a system as a way to help us grow and modernise the experience for our clients. They recommended the Slick system as they partner with the L’Oréal brands. The impact on the business has been amazing. For instance we had never taken bookings online before but the system gives you so much control. We select which services can be booked online and we can even ask clients to pay a deposit when they book, which has resulted in a huge drop in cancellations which is the ‘scourge’ of the industry.” Paul, Boyd Hair & Beauty, Carlisle Book a free call with the team to see how Slick could work for your business. No contract and no set up fee means you can be up and running in less than 24 hours!
5 KEY TOOLS THAT ARE HELPING SLICK SALONS STAY AHEAD OF THE GAME POST COVID. Remote working You can access your diary on any device from anywhere. Check tomorrow’s diary and client list from your smartphone or open up your iPad to run your payroll and reports from home. More control and an easy way to manage your clients. Patch testing With patch testing being the industry hot topic, Slick will give you automatic warnings on the client profile as well as a daily list of all clients without a valid patch and you can send out a direct pre-appointment consultation form. Deposits We’ve seen a 320% increase in salons taking deposits as owners look to protect the business from dreaded no-shows. SlickPay allows you to send a customised SMS to your client to allow them to pay their deposit via our secure payment gateway. Client communications Keep clients updated on all your plans after re-opening, new patch testing guidelines or last minute availability. The Slick 2-way messaging allows you to chat to your clients to reassure them and get them booked in. Smart tools allow you to see top spending clients or loyal clients who haven’t booked back in. Online booking The smart AI booking platform can be set to only allow approved services to be booked by clients. For example to avoid clients booking colour appointments – simply turn off that category. Top tip: most salons are now taking a 50% deposit when taking online bookings to give them added peace of mind.
WWW.RDR.LINK/HA011
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PASSION 4 EDUCATION “A good education program will appeal to different types of learners and a good educator will be skillful in directing questions to the right source.”
Hairdressing is a dynamic career requiring constant change and progress. There are a number of factors that affect the ever-changing landscape; ● Style changes influenced by fashion, lifestyle demands, seasons and other factors. ● Technology changes needing updated knowledge to be gained. ● Technique developments to accommodate effective services. The thirst and demand for education in the hair industry is awe-inspiring and that is why the foundation of Passion4hair is education. HOW WE LEARN Everyone learns differently, one size does not fit all. Some people are visual, some are doers, some seek deep understanding, some learn best in groups, some need to hear it multiple
times, some like study and others need a system to follow. You can often tell someone’s preferred methods of learning by the questions they ask. Show me? Explain to me? Let me have a try? Where can I read more information? Are there instructions or a step by step? Tell me again or remind me? A good education program will appeal to different types of learners and a good educator will be skillful in directing questions to the right source. WHERE WE LEARN During the pandemic of the last year it was incredible to see education continue in our industry despite our businesses being closed for over half of the year. Apprentices were able to continue their training and it’s possible the current cohort of young people coming through
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SKILL ZONE
could have the best theory knowledge of all time. It has been a great time for everyone from apprentice to salon owner to upskill and master new ways to expand service offering, improve stylists’ confidence, quality of work and develop business. The appetite for online training has been tremendous, we should be proud of our industry for the innovation and adaptiveness. Many salons and stylists have emerged better skilled and more knowledgeable. So, we now know that online learning really is valuable, however there is no substitute for the guidance of a great educator adjusting your posture, how you hold the scissors, the angle of your section or the application of your product. There is also no better feeling that the connectedness of being in a room of likeminded people. FUTURE EDUCATION As we move forward from lockdown, highly anticipated is a return to the larger events our industry is so good at turning into parties once the sun goes down. As we wait for those days to return, it is important to plug into education events that can ignite and grow our inner genius. Geniuses don’t know all the answers, they have a lot of questions and their curiosity takes them on a journey in pursuit of understanding and excellence. Passion4hair have a full program of education across a spectrum of platforms available to any curious hair professional, ranging from the traditional live events we have all missed so much to the online offerings we have all found so convenient and valuable. Live Events Commencing 17th May at the P4h Academy in Milton Keynes with a ‘Drive Your Future’ business workshop for salon owners, delivered by Debbie Digby. Other ‘not to be missed’ live events are ‘Discover Taster Workshop’ with Gianni Scumaci (June 15th) for experienced stylists and for young stylists looking to build confidence behind the chair, ‘Graduate Program’ with Richard Tidey, a 2 part, 4-day complete column building solution. The full schedule can be seen here. WWW.RDR.LINK/HA013
Streamed Events Travelling to an event is not always convenient, so some of P4h’s live events are streamed for inclusion. For example; the first Sunday and Monday of every month in the P4h Academy is dedicated to MalibuC classes. The live streams enable everyone to gain invaluable knowledge from this must have brand that ‘plays nicely’ with everyone. P4h Academy Online Webinars are a convenient way to consume information, build knowledge and keep up to date with developments. You can watch from anywhere alone or with your team. Webinars have allowed us to ‘cram’ and expedite learning. In the last year
hairdressers have had the opportunity to consume in one year, information that could have otherwise taken years to absorb. You can join Passion4hair’s online events free, you will find the schedule here. WWW.RDR.LINK/HA014
Passion4hair YouTube Channel Go and subscribe for this free resource that is available 24/7. Packed full of the webinars Passion4hair have previously delivered plus many other info videos that are just waiting to be viewed over and over. Click the bell to be notified when new content is added. Continuing Professional Development (CPD) is an important part of what we do as hairdressers, it is our investment in continued success. As we move forward developing careers and businesses, bridging the gap in skills, knowledge and technique is imperative. Staying up to date with trends, technology and products is important for today’s professional. Lean in and stay curious, pursue the best version of you and be successful. For more information go to www.passion4hair.com
WWW.RDR.LINK/HA015
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BRIDAL
BRIDES
are back
Weddings are back for the summer of 2021, with long-awaited events and postponed parties finally back in the calendar. For bridal stylists, consultations are now more important than ever – lockdown has changed everything; including client’s hair! Perhaps they’ve decided to embrace their natural texture, or maybe they’ve embarked on a colour journey to their natural grey – or perhaps there’s been a DIY cut! We spoke to Great Lengths bridal specialist KIRBY BLYTHE for her expert insight on providing the perfect consultation, post-lockdown and beyond. How important is a consultation for a bride? It’s one of the most important meetings you’ll have! If it’s the first time you have met, it’s crucial to present your portfolio, discuss the vibe of the wedding, talk about any ideas they have for the overall look and hair, find out about any accessories and establish if what you’re discussing is achievable – and where extensions fit in! What information are you trying to ascertain during a bridal consultation? I’m assessing the hair, considering if the desired look is achievable and finding out what they like and don’t like. It’s also important to work out where the hair is being done on the day – i.e. at the venue or the salon. How far away is it, what time do I need to arrive, how many people are in the bridal party and do I need an extra pair of hands for prep? What are the three most important questions to ask? ● Why have you chosen me? Is it the style of hair I do, because I can offer Great Lengths extensions too, or because you’ve seen one of my images on social and want that exact look? ● How do you normally wear your hair? Do you want to look completely different and change up your image, or be the best possible version of you?
●
What’s the dress like? I want to find out about the neckline, and plans for any accessories or heavy jewellery like big earrings. Ideally, I always like to see a photo because it helps you build a picture ahead of the wedding day.
Do you have any top tips for letting people down gently if you think their dream idea might not work? Tell them what you think WILL look amazing. Don’t say “that’s not for you” – turn it around and say, “I envisage you like this”. Inspire them! It’s important to strike the balance between what you know will work for their hair type and what suits them, while still listening to what they want. Be very diplomatic at all times. How can you introduce the idea of extensions for achieving a chosen look to a client who might not have had them before? I don’t always suggest a bride has a full head of extensions, but will suggest them for volume and fullness. I always emphasise the luxuriousness of Great Lengths extensions and the looks that can be achieved and I use my portfolio to show clients exactly what I’m envisioning. I never want my brides to feel pressured into having extensions, but I do always showcase what can be achieved with them. Is there anything new you need to keep in mind for a bridal consultation post-lockdown? The first step would be a video consultation (if we are unable to meet), but now we have re-opened this can be done in salon to look at her hair, talk about lifestyle and find out if we have the availability to do everything she wants ahead of the wedding, depending on how far away the wedding is after lockdown. We would need to talk about colour treatments, possibly adding more extensions to match in with post lockdown hair. It’s also important to know what has been applied on the hair during lockdown e.g. have they applied a box colour? In which case it is likely to fade very quickly, so colour matching with Great Lengths could be tricky.
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OWN
the day W
eddings are finally back on the agenda and the second half of 2021 and beyond into 2022 looks set to be a busy time for weddings with patient couples, ready to get their big days back on track. There’s no such thing as wedding season these days – events take place all year round, particularly post-lockdown when eager couples are jumping at the chance to finally host their nuptials. From small civil ceremonies to bumper multi-day occasions and from low maintenance looks to all-out glam for the whole family, a great wedding stylist can enjoy a packed schedule of diverse, exciting work, year-round. No matter what the wedding looks like, Great Lengths hair extensions provide a perfect solution for those looking to
The new bridal collection from GREAT LENGTHS enhance their natural look. Whether clients are long-time wearers of GL Tapes or Bonds and couldn’t imagine an occasion without them, or they’re new to the idea of extensions but want something special for their long-awaited big day, Great Lengths has a solution for everyone – from subtle to all-out extravagance, as well as colour changes and enhanced length and volume to give updos the wow factor. Bringing to life this versatility is the latest bridal collection from Great Lengths, Own the Day. The stunning shoot showcases the full potential of hair extensions – and the transformative effect they can have on every type of hair. From a full head of bonds to add length and texture to a few strategically-placed GL Tapes to add volume and lift, the collection is full of inspiration – and the perfect conversation starter for a consultation.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 43
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Textured ponytail Created using GL Tapes, this beautiful blonde style loose ponytail style is perfect for brides who prefer an up-do. Textured with a loose wave, the ponytail encapsulates volume and body and looks great with a low back dress, plus no signs of the discreet GL Tapes to be seen.
Halo braided up-do Perfect for brides who want lots of detail. This look created using Great Lengths bonds has been perfectly styled to ensure no bonds are visible. The loose and undone halo braid adds lots of detailed texture to the look and the loose waves shape the face perfectly.
Great Lengths Hair Louise Jenkins, Kirby Blythe, Maria Vaughan Make-Up Sally Rowe Dresses Joanna Leigh Couture Photography Joseph Scanlon
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Natural loose waves Loose waves create a bold and beautiful statement that works well with open shoulder dresses. Created using Great Lengths bonds, the vast colours available enabled a perfect colour match to enhance the natural look adding dimension, length and volume.
Introduction ANY BOLDED WORDS introduction text Names in the introduction
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Undone textured braid A natural and undone loose braid. Created using a mix of GL Tapes and the new GL Tapes Minis. Dimension has been added by using multiple shades and the sides have been given extra thickness and texture to complete the look. The beautifully long undone braid is the perfect look to pair with a low-back dress.
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Lustrous and defined curls A classic afro texture, enhanced using Great Lengths pre-permed GL Tapes to add more volume, a little length and create a natural, yet defined look which is perfectly colour matched. This look is big and bouncy and perfectly complements the style of dress, with low cut arms the hair remains centre stage.
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MARK LEESON Hair Mark Leeson Artistic Team for Revlon Professional Make-up Clare Read Styling Bernard Connolly Photography Richard Miles
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA017
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Jason Hall Hair Jason Hall Make-up Kelly Cripps and Jo Sugar Styling simply_masquerade Photography Desmond Murray
Inspired by the classic with an added modernity. Lustrous hair, reflective shine, supercharged glamour. Using both soft shapes, with distinct tonal separation adding dimension to these styles. Wearable yet empowering hair for right now.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HA018
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STEP BY STEP
Great Lengths has introduced two new lines of extensions to revolutionise colour transformations: GL Tapes Piano and GL Pre-Bonded Two Tones. These extensions are created specifically to enhance colour and make your client’s finished hair look even more vibrant, with truly dimensional results that reflect the multi-faceted colour of her own natural hair. GL Tapes Piano tapes are applied using a special medical adhesive for a natural look with maximum comfort, without creating any tension on the scalp. Each strand is fixed to the hair using the “Sandwich” technique and can be repositioned up to three times and each application lasts between six and eight weeks.
1. Prepare your clients hair using Great Lengths Clean Remover shampoo to remove any excess oils. Section your client’s hair ready for application of GL Tapes.
application section. This needs to be the same width as the tape. Raise this section and bring down over the tape and smooth.
2. Using a pin tail comb, take a 2-3mm section below the
3. Remove the second tape from the protective strip and apply
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directly on top of the first tape. 4. Using the application tweezers, gently apply pressure to the tape to encourage the adhesive to bind. 5. Cut the extensions to create a
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seamless blend between the client’s natural hair and extensions, removing the weight from the ends for a more natural finish. Style and finish with Great Lengths Soft Finish Spay.
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THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
WHAT’S NEW Packed with naturally-derived sage, rosemary and peppermint, the Vivace Dry Shampoo Crème from Rossanno Ferretti absorbs oil, sweat and odour to leave hair feeling clean and fresh between washes. Clients can also add root lift and body throughout by rubbing the crème in at the scalp, stimulating circulation and adding touchable volume throughout. www.rdr.link/HA020
Aveda has introduced blonde revival, a 96% naturally-derived, vegan, and silicone-free system specifically formulated to revive blonde hair in just one use. The new, multi-benefit blonde revival system features a purple toning shampoo and conditioner that helps neutralise brassy tones for a brighter, softer and smoother blonde result. www.rdr.link/HA021
Created by award-winning hairdresser Paul Falltrick, the newly formulated CleanIT solution is a fast-drying, professional sanitising spray designed to make the salon cleaning process as fast as possible. CleanIT has a no-residue formula which allows hairdressers to keep combs, brushes, and scissors clean and can also be used around the salon to clean counter tops, door handles, mirrors and more. www.rdr.link/HA022
GL Tapes just got even more subtle with the launch of Cover Bands from Great Lengths. Available in four colours, the new coloured adhesive bands have been designed to work in perfect harmony with GL Tapes. Simply place them directly on top of a tape to provide a truly invisible application and to create a tailored and bespoke service. www.rdr.link/HA023
R+Co On A Cloud Baobab Oil Repair Splash-On Styler is a leave-in styling masque that delivers shine, softness and repair. The baobab oil-protein technology rebuilds bonds and seals the cuticle while keeping styles intact. Formulated with a unique cold-effect polymer, it also smoothes the hair and fights frizz for an instantly hydrated and touchably soft finish. www.rdr.link/HA024
A new addition to ELEVEN Australia’s product portfolio is the ELEVEN Australia Curling Iron – a versatile styler that can be used to create everything from beachy waves to bouncy curls. Its electroplating technology creates even instant heat of up to 232˚C, perfect for penetrating and holding style, leaving smoother, shinier curls and waves that last all day and night. www.rdr.link/HA025
Giveaway
Zalon Pro London is a quick and simple, bleach free and ammonia free colour remover which will remove all oxidised artificial colour from the hair without any damage. The formula also contains argan oil so that the hair is nourished throughout the simple three step process. If required hair can be coloured immediately after. The innovative Colour Remover will lift hair by 2-4 levels to reveal the client’s lightest previous shade. If bleach has been used then it will return the client to their previously bleached colour as bleach permanently alters the natural pigment.
We’ve got Zalon Colour Remover salon size packs up for grabs for three lucky winners. If you want to get your hands on one, just enter your details at the link: www.rdr.link/HA029
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TIGI has unveiled its strongest shampoo, conditioner and styling range yet. Full of salon favourites the Bed Head collection features eight wash and care products, 10 styling products and five new innovations including Bigger The Better volume foam shampoo, Dirty Secret dry shampoo, Gimme Grip texturising shampoo and conditioner and more. www.rdr.link/HA026
Redken has reinvented its regulars with a new scientific approach to haircare. The new portfolio is powered by high concentrations of effective ingredients, designed to preserve the health of hair. Each formula is based on the three principles of healthy hair; protein technology, balanced pH, and rigorous testing and the details are displayed on each bottle on a new prescriptive label. www.rdr.link/HA027
Alterna haircare has introduced Clinical Densifying, a range of powerful new scalp solutions that target thinning hair. Including updated formulations of the Shampoo, Scalp Treatment and Styling Mousse, the range also boasts a revolutionary new Foam Conditioner. The Foam Conditioner is designed to increase volume and density to make hair appear fuller. www.rdr.link/HA028
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Fudge Professional is doing some serious damage control with the Damage Rewind Reconstructing Shampoo and Conditioner. Sulfate free and with colour fade protection, the range uses Fudge’s unique Opti-PLEX technology to penetrate deep into the hair core to reconstruct bonds and smooth the cuticle. www.rdr.link/HA031
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OVER NIGHT HAIR REPAIR by SACHAJUAN works like an overnight mask for the hair. By coating the hair the unique combination of ingredients will build elasticity and shine whilst strengthening the hair from the inside. The gel-based formula is oil-free meaning it won’t stain or leave any sticky residue on pillows or sheets and there is no need to rinse it out in the morning. www.rdr.link/HA030
ELEVEN Australia’s MIRACLE HAIR MASK cares for the scalp as much as it does for dry, brittle ends. It adds volume and moisture with Aloe Vera and Bamboo Extract up top, while White Water Lily, Jojoba Seed Oil and antioxidants from Pomegranate provide serious strength and hydration to mid-lengths and ends. www.rdr.link/HA032
........................................................ The Biolage HydraSource Deep Treatment pack is inspired by the moisture-retaining properties of the aloe vera plant, restoring nourishment and elasticity to neglected hair. Perfect for colour-treated tresses, it strengthens the hair leaving it looking healthy and revitalised. www.rdr.link/HA033
The 3D Intensive Deep Protect Density Mask by Nioxin is ideal for thinning hair. It deeply conditions dry or coloured hair, providing maximum protection while strengthening the hair shaft against damage and breakage. After a three to five minute treatment hair will be left manageable and smooth. www.rdr.link/HA034
SHOW YOU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rehab Advanced Split End Therapy from ghd nourishes and fortifies damaged ends and seals split ends for up to ten washes. Plus with the added benefit of the ghd heat protection system, hair is protected from heat styling after use. Simply blow dry the product into damp hair and seal in with a styler for gorgeous shiny locks. www.rdr.link/HA035
AFTER MONTHS OF NO SALON VISITS, YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR MAY BE IN NEED OF SOME SERIOUS CARE AND ATTENTION. WE’VE ROUNDED UP SOME OF THE TOP HAIR REPAIR PRODUCTS FOR YOU TO SEND THEM HOME WITH AT THEIR NEXT APPOINTMENT.
R+CO’s On A Cloud Baobab Oil Repair Masque is a protein-rich, creamy formula that renews damaged hair fibres, bringing nourishment, strength and elasticity to strands. After shampooing, apply and work through hair, leaving for five minutes (or ten for very damaged hair) and rinse and style. www.rdr.link/HA036
........................................................ The Alter Ego Italy Repair family is rich in precious ingredients of natural origin, amino acids and proteins and performs a reinforcing and repairing action on the hair fibre. The result is healthier, plumped, strong and resistant hair. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and no-breakage leave-in treatment. www.rdr.link/HA037
With a blend of three natural oils, argan, avocado and jojoba, Neäl & Wølf’s VELVET Hair Oil is designed to tame hair and leave it looking beautifully healthy. Just apply a small amount of VELVET to damp or dry hair and style. For an extra boost, add a few drops of VELVET to a conditioner for the ultimate deep conditioning treatment. www.rdr.link/HA038
KEVIN.MURPHY REPAIR-ME.WASH is a reconstructing treatment shampoo that renews and restores frazzled hair. With powerful proteins and amino acids, it will help to strengthen the hair from root to tip, while gently removing impurities and soothing damage. There is also a matching REPAIR-ME.RINSE conditioner. www.rdr.link/HA039
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SPOTLIGHT
LEYTON HOUSE PROFESSIONAL’S COUTURE CARE LINE REALLY BRINGS THE LUXE TO LACKLUSTRE LOCKS. In search of premium ingredients that can rejuvenate hair, Leyton House Professional turned to the Chihuahua Desert in Mexico, where unique plants have adapted their physiology to the extreme conditions. Carefully crafted to meet the needs of you as a professional hairstylist, and your clients, Couture Care is a luxe salon range divided by key hair concern and reinforced with Rejuvenation Complex that is free from ingredients that may be harmful to our hair and our planet. All Couture Care products contain natural botanicals and are proud to be silicone, sulfate and paraben free.
IN THE COLLECTION:
Couture Care Hydrolock Shampoo and Conditioner Lock in new and existing colour with this creamy and luxurious salon professional hair care duo. Hydrolock delivers potent anti-aging and soothing effect, protecting stressed hair and helping to retain moisture.
Couture Care Volume Shampoo and Conditioner This lightweight pair will maximise volume and retain curl. Its advanced formulation delivers strength and fullness to limp hair while smoothing the cuticle and increasing hair diameter.
Couture Care Silver Shampoo Designed to gently tone unwanted warmth in natural or coloured hair, this advanced hair care formulation strengthens hair and smoothes the cuticle for long lasting shine. Helping to retain the hair’s volume and fullness, enhancing professional hair colour and natural tones, it also imparts soft silver shine on grey hair.
High lp e h d en Rejuvenation Complex contains Date Palm Fruit extract for volume, curl retention and anti-aging car e, Rose of Jericho for smoothing and moisturisin g, and Silk Amino Acids for strength and colour care.
Couture Care Clarity Shampoo This deep cleansing shampoo removes impurities and product build-up leaving the hair and scalp feeling fresh and clean. It prepares the hair for optimal colour penetration, and enhances professional hair colouring systems.
Couture Care All Purpose 6-in-1 Spray This multi-purpose cream spray promises to rejuvenate hair in six ways. The leave-in moisture treatment will protect from thermal heat, reduce colour fade, detangle and repair, fill in porosity and boost and bring hair back to life.
Find out more about Leyton House Professional’s Couture Care collection... WWW.RDR.LINK/HA040 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 63
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SPOTLIGHT
IN THE RANGE:
DAMAGE IS DONE Break up with breakage with GOLDWELL’S new Dualsenses Bond Pro Goldwell Dualsenses Bond Pro is an emergency squad that instantly rescues frail and fragile strands without weighing hair down. It’s designed to help your clients to break up with breakage and split up with split ends so they can have a healthy relationship with stronger, more resilient and beautiful hair. The intensive new professional regime features a full range of technologically-advanced formulas suitable for all hair types prone to breakage. Peptides and amino acids penetrate into the hair cortex, targeting the damaged areas. Compounds of red and brown algae extracts form ionic and hydrogen bonds, embedding these peptides in the inner cortex, making the hair fibre stronger and more resilient. Meanwhile, Goldwell’s proprietary MicroPROtec Complex distributes all of the essential ingredients quickly and evenly for results you can instantly see and feel. Find out more about the Goldwell Dualsenses Bond Pro collection at: WWW.RDR.LINK/HA041
64 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
■ Fortifying Shampoo: Instantly delivers structure and care for weak, fragile hair while the Goldwell exclusive FadeStopFormula minimises colour fading with every use. ■ Fortifying Conditioner: Immediately creates stronger hair with visibly less breakage while protecting against further mechanical damage when combing or brushing. ■ 60Sec Treatment: Instantly strengthens hair fibre by up to 100% in 60 seconds, to prevent breakage and split ends and seal the cuticle for smoothness, comb-ability and protection. All without weighing down the hair. ■ Repair & Structure Spray: Smoothes the hair’s surface and preps it for styling while providing long-lasting cuticle protection and resilience against day to day stressors, even on fine, fragile hair. ■ Day & Night Bond Booster: Instantly reduces breakage and split ends by up to 99% while imparting long-term strength and stability to each individual hair strand. This specific formula supports the Bond Protein network and provides the ultimate strengthening benefits with the highest concentration of the Inter-Amino-Bond-Builder in the range.
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THREE STEPS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR COPY OF PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 1. Find the RDR code, usually at the end of an article. 2. Put the RDR code into your search engine.
UCT LINE UP THE LATES T PROD
WHAT’S NEW upping its sustainable ELEVEN Australia is of a Gentle Cleanse offering with the launch oner Gentle Hydrate Conditi Shampoo Bar and a waste packaging. The zero with Bar complete ner bars are an ideal conditio and o new shampo g retail options, meetin salon expand to n additio and demand for more the consumer trend eco-friendly products. www.rdr.link/HY019
d a new line of Great Lengths has launche s. e colour transformation extensions to enhanc of ting light and dark keys Inspired by the contras extensions add a piano, GL Tapes Piano across nine shade dimensional colour results and 40 (30, lengths three families. Available in are suitable for all hair 50 cm), GL Tapes Piano larly suited to fine hair. types and are particu www.rdr.link/HY022
g new Max styler, featurin ghd has unveiled its styling plates yet. 70% the brand’s biggest Max styler plates, the ghd bigger than regular with each pass hair more even wide plates cover s advanced dual-zone of the styler. It also feature a patented heater system ceramic technology, rs the optimum styling which constantly monito across both plates. temperature at 185°C www.rdr.link/HY020
The Moxi Magnifying MONAT Studio One Rejuvenique, is a Mousse, infused with of clinically proven revolutionary blend in achieving an all-over assist ingredients which and flat hair. The thin for feel and fuller look , whilst providing both mousse adds volume any clumps or build condition and hold without to medium hair. fine up, making it ideal for www.rdr.link/HY021
WWW.RDR.LINK/HA000
from AUTHENTIC The first Eau de Toilette about for skin and hair isn’t BEAUTY CONCEPT ing the up; it’s about enhanc masking or covering ‘you’. It features the notes that make you, the that can be found in signature fragrance Types Hair All PT Y CONCE AUTHENTIC BEAUT fresh linen, white and Styling ranges; think violet notes. ry powde and flowers www.rdr.link/HY023
Giveaway
RT Professional RE/STA from the coveted Revlon scalp and Revlon Win the Volume range starts with a healthy collection. Healthy hair formulated using proven t has been specially microbiome Professional RE/Star and respect the scalp balance that ents cuticle and skincare ingredi s that seal the hair’s ed haircare solution healthiest hair ever. combined with advanc scalp needs for your target specific hair and
To enter the giveaway, and drop your details! simply head to this link WWW.RDR.LINK/HA000 .rdr./linkHY025 www
on from Rossano The Grandioso collecti Ambassador for Great Ferretti, Global Brand ing comprising a volumis Lengths, is a luxe trio oner plus an shampoo and conditi r, ing spray. Used togethe award-winning volumis s ed ingredient formula the 90% naturally-deriv ed thicker look, enhanc provide hair with a fuller, and natural movement. with plenty of bounce www.rdr.link/HY024
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Hairdressers reveal their favourite images.
KEN PICTON This was the toughest shoot of my life. My mum had just passed away and I didn’t have an ounce of creativity within me. I was working with Andrew O’Toole, and we were shooting on camera with flash – which is also something I’d never done before, just to add to the stress. At the end of the shoot, I was in tears because it hadn’t gone the way I wanted. Andrew said to me that people would either get it or they wouldn’t – and luckily, they did! We had more than 20 front covers across the globe and won lots of awards too. It goes to show, sometimes bad things happen at just the right time.
MARK LEESON This shot was one of the last collections we created prior to this legendary lockdown, little did we know that we wouldn’t find ourselves in the studio again (apart from a very quick trip mid-lockdown in December to shoot our Wonderland Collection with Terri Kay and Andrea Giles), for some time! For team Mark Leeson we love to shoot, continuously focusing and channelling towards ‘campaign’ shots. As a team we absolutely love the attitude, the styling, the hair the makeup that have come together so beautifully to create this image that perfectly depicts undone rebellion.
MARTIN CREAN I was inspired by an image created by Sally Brooks for this shot, which was part of my winning Wales & South West Hairdresser of the Year collection in 2019. It’s all about shape, texture, slightly avant garde, but beautiful at the same time. I worked creatively creating the texture before creating the shape and cutting into it. I think she looks quite mysterious the way she is looking through the hair. It’s one of my favourite shots.
ADAM REED This image is from my Girls collection, is called Boyfriend, the model was cast from Central St Martins and I love the strength and simplicity. I wanted everything about the image to be relevant, from the slight heavy root to the straight with slight movement to the sharp line. I pressed the hair with my GHD max from the mid length to end, pulled the front section over the eye straightened and surface polished with my GHD dressing brush.
PAUL FALLTRICK I love this image because it was shot at a real turning point in my career. Creatively I really turned a corner, I was free from all the safety nets I’d built up over the years and was just open to be artistically free to create work purely for myself. Every time I look at this image I am transported right back to that feeling of being my true creative self.
DAVID CORBETT This is one of my favourite images. It’s from my 2015 collection, is beautiful and always catches my eye. The model had straight long hair and it took me six hours to set it on rollers and create the shape. I think it’s whimsical and angelic and I love that she had a totally different hair texture to when she arrived at the shoot.
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THE ED:IT
Errol Douglas MBE needs no introduction! Pro Hair are delighted to have this ‘man about town’ (although now applying all covid restrictions), on our team for 2021. He brings us just what we need, a little ‘eye on the prize’, a smattering of ‘ones to watch’ and some very meaningful motivational tools that we can adopt to make this year happen for each and every one of us. Follow him on Instagram: @erroldouglashair
BEAUTY BACKED TRUST Over the past year, we have sadly witnessed the demise of many beauty businesses due to the hardships that COVID has enforced, which include the repeated delays in the re-opening of the beauty sector and lack of individual sectoral funding support. This remarkable sector employs an 88% female workforce, 82% of the business owners are also female. The BEAUTY BACKED TRUST has been formed by industry professionals who are passionate about their industry whose initial goal is to support as many beauty professionals as possible get back to work. I’m extremely proud to be supporting the work of the BEAUTY BACKED TRUST joining founders, trustees Caroline Hirons, Alexandra Forbes, Dija Ayodele, Lesley Blair and Lisa Potter Dixon – all of whom are experts in their chosen fields of beauty and are truly passionate about their industry and have taken Beauty Backed from a movement to a Trust. Their initial goal is to support as many beauty professionals as possible to get back to work. For further information or support contact Lucy at help@beautybacked.com.
BACK IN THE BUSINESS OF HAIR
LET’S LOOK AFTER OUR PLANET EARTH
Goodness it seems to have lasted a lifetime and yet now, as I write, we are reopening our doors next week! Can’t wait to get back behind the chair – I’ve missed my team, I’ve missed my clients, I’ve missed the constant, I’ve missed the camaraderie. Don’t get me wrong I’ve been spinning all the plates from home – some days for each of my waking hours – but I just can’t wait to get back on that beat. It’s MY LIFE – I’ve got to own it. For those less fortunate than myself, (although I join others in returning to work with a debt I didn’t have pre-lockdown), my heart goes out to you it really does. Take what you have learned from this experience and start again – you’ve got the tools in your hand to go forth and create. Do just that and each day you will get one day closer to reaching your goals – believe me.
Come on guys and girls – we have got to start taking some serious action to save our planet, the planet that has supported us so well! There are various avenues and collectives that have arisen to help salons recycle their waste, however if you really want to fully understand what you can personally do to help – sign up for Ashleigh Hodges course ‘12 Steps to Sustainability’. Step by step you will be taken through 12 very manageable steps, from water to waste to banking, to ensure that you both understand how you can implement and support sustainability in your life. Sign up today www.hdcartteam.com
HELP – ONE VOICE NEEDED Numerous industry campaigns, associations and businesses have recently come together to ensure a strong alignment, with a dynamic vision to be more effective. What have we, as a hairdressing sector done? With the hair and beauty sector still contributing somewhere like 8% of what the retail sector generates – why haven’t we got our voice? We need to seriously raise the awareness of the contribution we make, stand together, we get that one voice to represent us, to take us seriously. We need help for the future.
I’VE SIGNED UP TO THE NHS Alongside legendary athlete, Dame Kelly Holmes (MBE), actress Nina Wadia OBE, and actor Ricky Whittle, I am absolutely honoured to have been asked to help the NHS Blood and Transplant, sponsored by Tropical Sun, by inviting people across the UK to have a ‘heart to heart’ as part of their new campaign to get people from Black and Asian backgrounds talking about blood and organ donation. Although more and more black people are saving lives by donating blood, there remains an urgent need for donors from black backgrounds as they are ten times more likely to have the blood types needed by black patients in need. Under UK law, all adults in England, are now considered as having agreed to donate their own organs when they die unless they register a decision not to donate, which is known as ‘opting out’. The NHS wants all UK citizens to register their own informed organ decision, whether opting in or out. By doing this, families dealing with the loss of a loved one will no longer have to face the difficult decision of whether to allow the deceased’s organs to be donated as they will already be certain of their wishes. For more information visit: www.organdonation.nhs.uk. To become a blood donor, register today and download the GiveBloodNHS app, or visiting blood.co.uk.
A I
IN ORDER TO CREATE… You have to believe in your ability to do so. Anyone that does platform work around the world knows the planning that goes into a show. I love anything intricate or the introduction of colour or embellished pieces: plaiting, moulding, twisting, creating abstract shapes. Recently our stage has been Zoom – spending time with head blocks as opposed to real people. Don’t spend your life wondering ‘what if’ and worrying over something you have no control of. What’s done is done. Looking backwards will cause you to miss out on the blessings ahead. So move on the future is going to be incredible.
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