Professional Hairdresser October 2023

Psst... here come the girls...

RED –COLOUR 1

ORANGE –COLOUR 2

STRIPED –COLOUR 3 PRE-LIGHTENED

TONED WITH COLOUR 4

Colour the Cover Look

INTENTION NOW – CATWALK COLOUR STEP-BY-STEP:

COLOURS USED COLOUR 1

IGORA ZERO AMM 9.55 + 7.55 (2:1) +

IGORA ROYAL OIL DEVELOPER 9% /30VOL (1:1)

COLOUR 2

IGORA ZERO AMM 10-14 + 7.55 +

IGORA ROYAL OIL DEVELOPER 9% /30VOL (1:2)

COLOUR 3

IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS + IGORA ROYAL OIL DEVELOPER 9% /30VOL (1:2)

COLOUR 4 (TONING STEP APPLIED OFF CAMERA)

IGORA ZERO AMM 9.55 + IGORA VIBRANCE ACTIVATOR LOTION 1.9% /6VOL (1:3)

STEP 1

Section the hair into 8 sections, working on a swirl (orange segments around the head). The central pivot point is the crown. It is important that your sections are curved like a spinning top swirling around the head. (When you put a comb on the head, the flattest point is your starting section).

STEP 2

Apply Colour 1 from the occipital bone to the nape of the head. Global application –roots to tips.

STEP 3

Pivoting around the head working from each section. Panel of each section global application with all roots being Colour 1. Section 1 –Apply Colour 1 from roots to tips. Section 2 – Apply Colour 2 from roots to tips in back-to-back foils. Apply Colour 1 to all roots. Continue this for the back 4 sections, alternating each colour.

STEP 4

Apply Colour 3 – pre-lighten from roots to tips on each side of the head. (Section in front of the ears.) Once you have applied back-to-back foils, apply Colour 1 to all roots.

STEP 5

Front 2 sections are Colour 1 and Colour 2. Working on global application of colour for each panel.

STEP 6

Once all colour is on, develop for correct development time.

STEP 7

Rinse, shampoo and apply Colour 4 (toner to each section of pre-lightened hair). Develop, rinse, condition and style as desired.

1420 25

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE with Errol Douglas MBE

COLOUR MEMO

A current conversation on colour

MEN’S MEMO

We’ve got male

REGULARS

7FIRST WORD

8HEADLINES

12HOW TO FAIL

Phil Smith interviews Michael Douglas

14EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE

New series with Errol Douglas

16THE CRAFT OF COLOUR

20COLOUR MEMO

22STYLE MEMO

23SUSTAINABLE MEMO

25MEN’S MEMO

26BUSINESS MEMO

62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson shares his diary

64VISIT

Haug London Haus

665 MINUTES WITH… Samantha Cusick

BUSINESS

40HAPPY LEADERS

With Polly Grace

42ROLE CALL IN QUESTION

With Graham Clarke

43NEED TO KNOW TRICHO

With Mark Blake

“WHO RUN THE WORLD? GIRLS”

On hearing the news that BT has appointed former MD of Wella Professionals UK, Allison Kirkby, as its first ever female CEO (congratulations to Allison!), it has inspired us here at Pro Hair to celebrate the achievements of women in hairdressing.

Our Special this month, Glamour, Grit and Girl Power, raises awareness of women’s standing in the industry, highlighting issues faced, challenges overcome and successes scored.

We hear from some of the most successful female business leaders about what it takes to win as a driving force in the industry, how they got their start in the game and what advice they can give to the hairdressing girl squad. Flick to page 30 to discover more from them.

We also catch up with female hairstylists and salon owners up and down the country on page 34 as they talk about their experiences of being women in the industry and why it is so important to continue to inspire the next generation of female hairdressers.

Make sure you share it with all the girls in your team – it’s a great read!

Enjoy the issue!

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Designer Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Group Sales Manager

Ray Suitters rsuitters@hamerville.co.uk

CUT: TYLER JOHNSTON COLOUR: LESLEY JENNISON PHOTOGRAPHY: RAFFAELE CARIOU

Psst... here come the girls...

HEADLINES

ORIBE CELEBRATES 15 YEARS OF ICONIC HAIRCARE

In 2008, sought-after celebrity hairstylist, Oribe Canales, began working with industry veteran, Daniel Kaner –the pair founded Oribe and changed the beauty landscape forever. Packaged in artisanal crafted bottles, Oribe introduced a luxury haircare collection designed for premium performance. This year, Oribe celebrates its 15th anniversary.

A NEW CHAPTER FOR MEDUSA’S MELLON

Alfa Italia appoints Peter Mellon as its latest UK styling ambassador. From the awarding-winning Scottish salon group, Medusa, Mellon was part of the Fellowship F.A.M.E team in 2018. As well as his ambassadorship, Mellon has designed a professional styling course exclusively for Alfa Italia: ‘The Art of Salon Styling’.

BETTER TOGETHER!

WELOVE, the Habia-endorsed education collective from Rae Palmer, has announced a collaboration with The Hair and Barber Council to help improve professionalism within the industry. This will involve a membership with the Hair & Barber Council for all hair pros who sign up to the 1 Purple Heart programme, and will include bi-annual educational days from the WELOVE International Art Team, as well as HR support.

DENMAN STAGE STAR UK & IRELAND WINNER ANNOUNCED

Emma Dixon of Ruby Tuesdays, has offically taken the title of Denman Stage Star UK & Ireland. She will now join Regional Winners from Europe, Asia and the USA to compete for the Global Stage Star title at Salon International later this month.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TONI&GUY BILLERICAY!

It’s an exciting year for TONI&GUY Billericay, as the salon celebrates its 20-year anniversary. Since its opening in July 2003 by Jim Shaw and his sister Maria, the salon has grown into a reputable and award-winning destination, with many of the original staff still in situ today.

SORBIE STEPS UP

Founder of the Alternative Hair Show, Tony Rizzo, announces hairdressing legend, Trevor Sorbie MBE, as its new Worldwide Honorary Patron. Now in its 41st year, the charitable event has raised over £14.5 million for blood cancer charities worldwide. “Trevor is an icon, it’s a great honour to have someone of his stature on board. This marks a real spirit of excitement for us”, comments Tony.

PATCH TESTING TEAMS UP WITH SOFTWARE SYSTEM

Colourstart announces its official integration with Phorest, the leading salon software for hair, beauty and aesthetic businesses. As the only MHRA-approved test for allergy to hair colour (PPD), the integration promises to make patch testing even simpler. This will involve Colourstart crossmatching Phorest’s client details against its own patch test database.

NEW HEAD FOR HARINGTONS

Haringtons Hairdressing announces Richard Scorer as its new Creative Director. With a career spanning over 38 years, Richard has worked with some of the top names in the world of fashion, as well as styling for Fashion Weeks and leading shoots for British Vogue. Richard is bringing all of his experience back to Haringtons to lead its Art Team. See his new collection on page 50.

©Alex Barron-Hough

CONTINUING OUR NEW SERIES, PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. IT’S SAID THAT YOU CAN’T SUCCEED UNTIL YOU’VE FAILED, SO FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL UNCOVERS THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND WHAT THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.

HOW TO FAIL

THIS ISSUE, PHIL TALKS TO MICHAEL DOUGLAS – A SELF-CONFESSED ‘HAIRDRESSER FOR THE CONSUMER’ WHOSE KNACK OF DEMYSTIFYING THE WORLD OF HAIR STYLING HAS MADE HIM ONE OF SOCIAL MEDIA’S MOST POPULAR HAIRDRESSERS. LAST YEAR, HE LAUNCHED HIS OWN HAIR TOOLS RANGE, MDLONDON TO GREAT SUCCESS. BUT IT HASN’T ALL BEEN PLAIN SAILING…

TELL US ABOUT WHAT YOU THINK HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE OR ‘FAILURE’ SO FAR… IN OTHER WORDS, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKE?

Going on TV at the start of lockdown and talking about home hair colour is what I would call ‘a big learn’. I’d been a guest on BBC’s The One Show for 13 years, and with salons under Covid restrictions at the time,

they invited me on to tell viewers how to colour their hair at home. The implication was that I had said colouring your hair at home is just as good as going to the salon –what I actually said though, is that both products are essentially made of the same stuff and work in the same way. And I stand by that.

The backlash from the hair industry was huge and cost me dearly. There were hundreds of complaints made to Ofcom -

none of which were upheld - and I haven’t been back on the show since. I felt a lack of support from the producers, it was like they’d hung me out to dry. I’ve never apologised for what I said because I was only telling the truth; if you stay true to yourself and to those around you, your conscience guides you. The only thing I would say or do differently today would be to add some caveats to the advice. The timing was sensitive, but what I said was true.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE BIGGEST LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM THIS?

My greatest success came from that moment. It hit me like a lightning bolt and made it crystal clear that I was a hairdresser for the consumer and not for other hairdressers. It gave me a real sense of purpose that I could speak to millions of people, not just 30 clients a week. I had a social media reach already and now I understood what to do with it.

HOW HAS THIS EXPERIENCE HELPED YOU MAKE BETTER DECISIONS IN THE FUTURE?

It gave me enormous confidence to say what I believe to be true, and not to be a mouthpiece. I’ve turned down more money than you would believe to talk about certain products, but I’ll always say it like it is – if the £2.99 dry shampoo works better than the £25 one, I’ll be deeply honest about it. It can be harder to tell the truth, but I know I can stand by everything I say. There are no smoking guns, if I’m wrong, I’m super happy to admit it and I never bulls**t anyone.

IF YOU COULD START ALL OVER AGAIN, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY?

Absolutely nothing. I’ve really enjoyed everything in my career so far. The best thing ever I’d say was working for Wella as a technician, and the single most valuable thing I learnt through that job was how to communicate. Becoming a great hairdresser is ‘learnable’, but if you can talk to a broad audience in an easy way and express yourself, it gives you an edge.

WHAT CHARACTER

TRAITS

WOULD YOU SAY HARD TIMES HAVE TAUGHT YOU?

I’ve learnt that my life is ‘my fault’, there’s no point in playing a blame game. Knowing that strengths can be weaknesses and vice versa helped me enormously.

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU DOUBTED YOURSELF – AND HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE FEELINGS?

Do I harbour a bit of imposter syndrome?

Possibly yes, but I’d say that’s a healthy place to sit – that’s where all the growth is. The fact you feel doubt is a good thing – I would say I experience a moment of doubt every day. If you get a bad review, you can feel like you’re failing and then you get a five-star review, and it boosts you up again. Businesses and careers run hot and cold and I’m very in touch with that.

WHAT WAS THE HARDEST DECISION YOU EVER HAD TO MAKE?

When we launched mdlondon, we had to raise £1.5 million from investors. It was a daunting experience and tough decision knowing that the idea we had in the pipeline wasn’t viable at the time and we had to change track. It was scary walking head on into fear and going back to the people who had invested in growth, expecting to see a return, knowing that I had to be totally honest.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL MOMENT RECENTLY?

Thankfully, I can stand back now, still in business a year later, and feel proud of what we’ve achieved. We had no idea how many hairdryers we’d sell, and what started as a faint sparkle of hope in our first month, turned into something that exploded just a couple of months later. It was about more than just selling hairdryers, it was about building a retail shop, being autonomous and finding our own customers for mdlondon. We were walking blind, but we wanted a direct route to our customers without any middlemen. It was terrifying, but it was something I’d tried to do for over 20 years with varying degrees of success, and this time we had cracked it. After my experiences during lockdown and the disaster of the hair industry turning against me, this was a way to have business control, be open and genuinely help people learn how to make their hair look good at home.

ARE YOU A PERSON WHO TAKES RISKS?

Yes. If you’re a person running or launching a business, it requires it. You have to be able to take a leap of faith – most businesses on paper would fail without risk.

SUCCESS IS OBVIOUSLY DIFFERENT FOR EVERYONE, BUT WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

It’s certainly not money. I think it’s about being at peace and having the right balance between work and fun.

WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE, AND WHAT LESSONS HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU?

Jamie Oliver is someone who has managed to transform the way we view cooking on TV –I would watch his shows and I don’t like cooking (being perfectly honest, I’m not that fussed with eating either), but somehow he took an idea and made it transcendent. I’ve always said, what Jamie’s done with cooking I’d like to do with hair –to make a show about hair that even a bald man would watch.

DO YOU HAVE ANY DAILY HABITS OR A PARTICULAR MINDSET THAT YOU THINK MAKES YOU SUCCESSFUL?

I write a list every day with ten things on it and then I number them in order of priority. I don’t always get them all done, but if you set yourself a target or goal, you’re more likely to achieve it. I try to exercise three or four times a week, which I’d highly recommend, and I also practice very hard at telling the truth.

WHAT THREE PIECES OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE AT THE START OF THEIR CAREER?

1. Don’t just learn to be a hairdresser, go and be an educator so you learn the art of communication.

2. Do something every day that scares you. If you fear it, that’s exactly why you need to do it. Those moments when you’re courageous and brave are when you grow, so you have to do stuff you don’t necessarily want to do.

3. Put yourself up for failure. It’s good to lose a lot – especially in your early career. If you win, you really lose, because there’s so little you learn from winning. It’s the failures that teach you the most.

EXCLUSIVELY

INCLUSIVE WiTH ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

Errol Douglas has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing. With equality, diversity and inclusivity high on his agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon. In a brand-new, exclusive series, Errol will be interviewing hair-industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

BUT TODAY, WE KiCK OFF WiTH THE MAiN MAN HiMSELF, AS HE TALKS ALL THiNGS TEXTURE, TRAiNiNG AND WHY YOU SHOULD NEVER TURN ANYONE AWAY FROM YOUR SALON…

WHAT DOES THE TERM iNCLUSiViTY MEAN TO YOU?

It’s such a fundamental concept to me – it’s about accepting every person regardless of their age, origin, gender or physicality. Our job is to be able to enhance any head of hair; no boundaries, no exceptions.

IS iT SOMETHiNG THAT’S ALWAYS BEEN ON YOUR RADAR, OR SOMETHiNG YOU’RE MORE AWARE OF iN TODAY’S WORLD?

100% YES, it’s been there from the outset. At Errol Douglas, it’s in our DNA. I am very proud to claim that we can look after anyone in the salon, whatever the hair type. London is an amazing place, mainly because of its people, so to me it is essential that our salon has the ability to take care of European, Afro, Middle Eastern and Asian hair. I believe it is this commitment to technical excellence in all hair types that sets us apart from other salons. To some, this might be considered the new way of hairdressing, but to us it’s just the way it’s always been... it’s the only way it could be.

DO YOU CONSiDER YOURSELF A ‘TEXTURED HAiR’ SPECiALiST?

That’s a label I’m keen to steer away from. I’ve built my career on being an all-rounder – textured hair/Afro (whatever you want to call it!) is just a part of what I do. I’m not sure we should be pinpointing ‘textured hair’ in this way. It frustrates me that this is often a marginal or tokenistic part of awards or education programmes. Let’s stop defining it and just embrace hair in all its aspects – men’s, women’s, Afro, barbering, bridal... whatever, it’s all still hair!

HOW MUCH DOES EDUCATiON AND TRAiNiNG PLAY iN THE QUEST FOR iNCLUSiViTY?

It’s so important! So much of this quest should come from ground level in the education and training that our apprentices receive at college. The National Occupational Standards for Hairdressing (NOS) updated its guidelines in 2021 to reflect current technical developments and meet the needs of the UK’s diverse community in one standard. Whilst this was supposed to be a big step forward in ensuring everyone felt seen, I’m not sure how much of it was just lip service...

...Until 2021, Afro Hair was not part of the national curriculum, and I still don’t feel enough has been done to educate the educators. Students should be equipped with a vast range of knowledge about every hair type –I appreciate it’s a challenge to get this part right, but what hope is there of securing our industry’s future when the majority of apprentices are leaving college without these basic techniques?

HOW DO YOU ENSURE YOUR SALON iS ABLE TO OFFER A TRULY iNCLUSiVE SERViCE?

As a salon owner, it’s important to recruit in a diverse and inclusive way; you need to hire a team who will cater for every kind of client that may walk through your doors. We invest a lot in the education and training of our stylists, in both our in-house development and our partnership with our product houses. In order to cater for the widest possible client base, you have to create the widest pool of talent. You don’t choose your clients – they choose you!

‘NORMAL’ HAiR MEAN

WHAT DOES

THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT iT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?

Yes, it’s time to stop thinking about hair as ‘abnormal’ or ‘a problem’. Manageable, beautiful hair is always attainable with proper care and professional guidance, regardless of its type or texture. What even is ‘normal’ hair? Hair comes in all kinds of shades, lengths, conditions and textures – there is no ‘normal’ and it’s unhelpful to suggest there is. We need to celebrate all hair types and allow our clients to enjoy and flaunt their hair in its natural state, only better.

WHAT PART DO PRODUCT COMPANiES PLAY iN THE ADVANCEMENT OF iNCLUSiViTY?

Their role is huge! The number of products available has diversified so much, it’s really been a gamechanger. Afro hair, for instance, lacks hydration, moisture and shine, but this can all be rectified with the right products. I’ve learnt that 50% of creating a great style on Afro hair is in the products, and the rest is technique! Working with Avlon has been instrumental for me in this way, they’re absolutely switched on to what we need as hairdressers.

WHAT DO YOU THiNK iS THE ONE THiNG EVERY HAiRDRESSER COULD DO TODAY TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAiR?

You should never, ever turn anyone away. Stop refusing people, stop limiting yourself to saying ‘we can’t do it’. Slowly but surely with knowledge, experience, model nights, the support of your product partner, whatever it takes, you can get there. Don’t be intimidated –all hair is just ‘hair’!

I’ve always been fascinated by the concept of psychology within colour. I truly believe that every client who is looking for a colour change is motivated by a psychological reason or circumstantial life change. I love tapping into that mindset, being able to help clients express themselves and reveal their true characteristics, egos and emotions.

To be a great colourist you need curiosity, not only for your clients’ thought processes, but for the science of hair colour. It’s important to be agile, humble and hungry for knowledge. Be fearless and embrace changes in the industry, ensure you try new things to avoid getting left behind. Attention to detail is so important; taking pride in what you do and never cutting any corners with sectioning and colour is crucial. Know your strengths and study your weaknesses. Being a colour craftsman is constantly exhilarating, it’s an artistic skill that encompasses both creativity and emotional intelligence.

THE CRAFT OF..

We are very lucky as colourists, because our area of the industry is so well recognised and respected. With such incredible advances in hair colour technology, almost everything can be achieved with hair colour now. However, the advice and guidance we give to the client in order to achieve their perfect colour is also an important skill that can take time to perfect. For me, so many aspects of creating colour begin with a detailed consultation. Because of this, the power of social media and managing client expectations is our biggest issue; we are constantly faced with trying to create unrealistic, Instagram-ready transformations –and fast!

To call yourself a colour craftsman is about having a mix of creativity, a real passion for colour, great communication skills and the desire to learn tricks and techniques My advice would be to look and learn from as many people as possible; knowledge is key to becoming the best at anything.

RUSSELL EATON, BARNSLEY

CONTINUING OUR NEW SERIES, SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S FINEST COLOUR CRAFTSMEN OFFER THEIR ADVICE ON WHAT IT TAKES TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS…

WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND, COLOUR TRENDS AMBASSADOR

Jordanna Cobella

Robert Eaton

Ilove being a colourist because you’re creating completely different palettes every day; I relish the idea of bringing someone’s features alive and instilling them with the confidence to show off their new look. I feel very lucky to be a part of this world of colour and all of the positive effects it can have on people.

In order to be a good colourist, it’s important to study colour in a deeper way; you must surround yourself with colour, dissecting it in every depth and tone. To go and study colour in its different forms, I will often travel abroad or visit museums and art galleries. You must keep your finger on the pulse with trends too; being able to recognise the trending colours of both this season and the next is essential.

The science part is also hugely important –to know what will happen when you put a certain product on the hair, and to understand how a dash of something else can change your result completely. The craft is the application – where to put it and why. Becoming a colour craftsman means going in deep; it should become your whole world. If you believe you know everything, then you can push your creativity even further.

Every colour, individual and personality is different, and my eye is always looking for sparks of inspiration. Personally, I love how being a colourist provides me with incredible, vast and consistent inspiration – either from models, my day-to-day job or clients in my chair!

Foundations, knowledge and attention to detail are a must in this job; it’s so important to keep our foundations modernised in order to encourage younger colourists into the industry. They are looking to us to be inspired and educated, and we must be at the top of our game.

Being a colour craftsman is a journey of discipline that meets creative, blue-sky thinking. It’s about understanding the science of not ruining someone’s hair; discipline - care - create!

For me, defining a colour craftsman is hard because people see colour in different ways, but ultimately, I believe a true craftsman is someone that leads, specialises and inspires.

Being a very artistic person, I love that I can push boundaries and express creativity through my job, especially when working on shoots and creating collections. Not only do I love to see clients leaving the salon feeling beautiful and confident with their new colour, but I love to inspire other hairdressers with my own colour work too.

As well as being incredibly skilled and educated in colour, it’s important to have strong listening skills, punctuality, problem-solving skills and excellent time management. A good colourist should be professional, driven, passionate and adaptable. For me, honesty is another useful trait – I find clients appreciate this particularly during the consultation.

The craft of hair colour requires knowledge on colour theory, hair types and product chemistry, as well as the ability to select a shade based on individual factors such as skin tone, personality and lifestyle. Of course, this is a science that can also be incredibly creative and innovative too –there are no bounds!

If I had to define what being a colour craftsman was, I would say it is a person who is highly skilled at art Remember, a hair colourist is no less of an artist than someone who creates work on a canvas.

MATRIX EDITORIAL COLOUR & TREND AMBASSADOR

Zoe Irwin

RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

Suzie McGill

RMarlon Hawkins

COBAIN CHIC

This is my fresh take on a 90s blonde, which is uber flattering and uplifting as a tone. I characterise the trend by its warmer palette of blonde shades, which I created with a teased root and varying levels of lightening to add contour and dimension. I then glossed the hair with delicate beige and golden tones from the new Matrix Tonal Control range. I find this is the perfect process for those looking for a modern take on a classic grunge look, as well as being a great way to add warmth and dimension to the hair.

IRWIN, MATRIX EDITORIAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR

memo

Commit or Quit!

There’s no getting away from it – Maxi Blonde is a high maintenance look. However, I find that many of my blonde clients are more than happy to commit; there’s a certain confidence that comes with admitting that you quite like being high maintenance - and it only confirms how seriously you value beautiful hair colour. Appointments every six weeks will help keep regrowth to a minimum and ensure that the shade retains its beautiful tones.

The best way to achieve a clean, bold blonde is with a universal scalp bleach. To achieve that expensive-looking result, you will need to go in with a multi-dimensional toner to create depth at the roots and a softer blonde through the ends. You must be able to see that subtle graduation of colour, almost like a trick of the light, rather than an obvious difference in tones.

SIOBHAN HAUG, COLOUR DIRECTOR AT HAUG LONDON HAUS

RISE TO THE OCCASION

Designed to achieve ultra-light blonde results with warm, cool and neutral options, the BLONDE HIGH.LIFT is the first product in the new KEVIN.MURPHY+BLONDE range. This gentle yet high-performance solution lightens hair up to five levels for optimum lift and neutralisation, all while protecting the hair’s integrity. The six HIGH.LIFT shades have an optimised combination of colour pigments to offer a variety of blonde possibilities, giving license to shine brightly and brilliantly.

www.rdr.link/HAN001

ZOË

Zoë Irwin

Nirvana Blonde

This season we will see a lot of undone blondes, also known as Nirvana Blonde, which is an edgy, grown-out blonde that works with the natural colour and keeps brightness around the face. Colour placement is key to achieving this look, particularly using a variety of mink, irise and creamy blonde tones to avoid the hair looking flat.

To enhance the look, the colour must be paired with an undone texture –choppy haircuts with soft edges and razor-cut pieces with messy, playful styling. Sexy hair is back.

CAROLYN NEWMAN

Written in the Stars...

Gemini hair will be another prominent trend this autumn – fun, playful two-tone colour that we have previously seen on the likes of Billie Eilish and Dua Lipa. This year however, I think the most popular pairings will be dark brunette or black paired with a vibrant shade of green, blue or purple, and blondes paired with pink or peach tones. For clients that want even more of a statement look, the trend also works brilliantly for pairing two vivid colours together.

KIRSTY JUDGE, RUSH COLOUR WORKSHOP TEAM

A TOUCH OF PURPLE

Introducing the brand-new No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner from OLAPLEX – the much-anticipated partner to its coveted No.4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo. Crafted with OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology™, this nourishing, root-to-tip formula locks in high-def brightness and neutralises yellow, brassy tones as it hydrates without weighing hair down.

Also formulated with Micro-Fine Pigments that reach porous areas of the hair that purple shampoos might miss, No.5P works to create more evenly toned and superbly brightened hair. www.rdr.link/HAN002

Carolyn Newman for INSIGHT Professional UK

Kirsty Judge

‘Sexy hair is back’

My love of wigs was born from the idea that you can change someone’s appearance in an instant. I also love trying to break the taboo –celebrities wear wigs daily, so why shouldn’t everyone else! Giving other hair professionals the chance to learn the art of wig making has grown to become a huge passion of mine, here are my top tips: Think about your client, their lifestyle and their preferred hair type – this will help you choose the hair density and wig structure. Think carefully about cost. Remember, the cost of human hair is much greater than synthetic hair.

Think about how the wig will be used. If it’s for a shoot, you can glue the hair on the cap, but if it’s for a client or live show, you will need to understand how to sew the wig together.

Think about the setting time. Wigs need to be set for longer if they are going to be used multiple times –often for several hours. Hairspray will be your best friend!

Think about tools.For me, the Denman D91 Backcomber is the best brush for volumising any wig.

THE WORD ON WIGS | DARREL STARKEY memo

HOW TO | SLICKED-BACK GLAMOUR

1. Shampoo and condition the hair with the Caviar Replenishing Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner, before applying the Caviar Anti-Aging Volumizing Blowout Mist from roots to length. Blow-dry the product into the hair over a round brush, this will create 3D volume with a flexible hold.

2. Next, evenly distribute Caviar Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture Gelee through the hair with your fingers. This will create the ‘wet look’ through adding instant moisture and boosting shine. Comb the hair back off the face to enhance that slicked-back, glamourous finish.

JOANA NEVES, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR AT ALTERNA

DON’T WORRY , BE WAVEY!

As part of its ongoing commitment to embracing inclusivity and celebrating natural beauty, Authentic Beauty Concept has expanded the Hydrate range to include three brand-new products. The new textured hair heroes –Smoothing Serum, Curl Enhancer and Intense Treatment –are designed to enhance the most diverse natural hair textures, from the softest waves to the tightest coils. All three products are formulated with sustainably sourced Murumuru Butter and Linseed Oil, both known to nourish and strengthen the hair.

www.rdr.link/HAN003

Fluttering into Style:

Alice Dawkins, Hair Expert at Milk + Blush, reveals which hairstyles people in the UK are lusting over the most this year.

HAIRSTYLESAVERAGE MONTHLY SEARCHES

1. Butterfly haircut 60500 (up 4850% YoY)

2. Ombre hair 18100

3. Fluffy hair 14800

4. Scandi hairline 2400 (up 49,400% YoY)

5. Cherry cola hair 1000 (up 80% past month)

6. Mousy hair 1000 (up 64% in the past month)

7. Cub cut 880 (up 3,800% YoY)

8. Barbie hair 720 (up 539% in the past month)

9. Box bob 720 (up 433% YoY)

10. Birkin bangs 390 (up 129% YoY)

BUILDING A BETTER FUTURE

Striving to create a positive and lasting impact on people and planet, Keune Haircosmetics has officially become a Certified B Corporation – a label awarded to companies that meet high standards of social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency. In the certification process, Keune’s impact on employees, governance, customers, community and the environment were all assessed with great results. “This is a very proud moment for me and the Keune family worldwide,” says Darren Potter, Country Director for the UK. “It is everyone’s responsibility to care for the very precious planet, and I believe B Corp should become the standard requirement for ALL businesses in the world today.” To learn more about Keune’s sustainability ethos, visit: www.rdr.link/HAN004

ARE YOU ON NATURE’S SIDE?

Green Salon Collective biodegradable cleaning product set to revolutionise salon hygiene.

biocide formulated entirely from natural ingredients. Effective against 99.995% of known micro-organisms – including influenzas, e-coli, c-difficile, MRSA, and norovirus – it’s also gentle on the skin, meaning it can be used safely on all salon tools, combs, scissors, surfaces, floors and seating without any harmful effects on staff or clients. Rated as non-hazardous by the EU, even as an aerosol, the product is entirely free from harmful chemicals – including alcohol, parabens and dyes.

www.rdr.link/HAN005

Denman Wins Gold at Global Green Awards

Denman has won Gold in the Best Vegan Hair Product category at the Global Green Beauty Awards. With over 650 product entries from

high-performance Italian range focuses on developing chemical products and processes that reduce the generation of hazardous substances, making them efficient, effective and more environmentally friendly. With more than 90% of the brand’s ingredients being of natural origin, the brand consists of four main care lines:

Daily, Glossy, Hydration and Recovery. Find out more here:

AUTUMN TREND ALERT I JIM SHAW

The French Crop:

Not only has this popular and versatile men’s haircut been in style for decades, it will continue to trend for autumn 2023. Characterised by its short length on the sides and back, and longer, textured length on the top, this haircut offers a balanced blend of a polished appearance with a touch of modern texture.

The Tight Fade:

Featuring a very short length on the sides and at the back, the haircut gradually transitions to the longer hair on top of the head. The Tight Fade creates a clean, sharp and versatile look that can be adapted to suit any client.

Mullets and Shags:

These90s-inspired, heavily-textured styles will also be very fashionable this season, perfect for those looking for something low maintenance and fuss free. This year, Mullets will be taken slightly shorter and spikier for a grungier take on the style.

MASTER THE MULLET

The Mullet, a timeless hairstyle that blends business in the front with a party in the back, has once again resurged as a cultural icon. We caught up with shop owner and educator RYAN LEWIS, to learn his steps for creating a heavily textured mullet:

Using STMNT Serum, take a vertical section from the crown to the nape of the neck, pulling further away towards the bottom with more length as you descend.

Debunking Common Grooming Myths

Grooming myths can be a real pain when you’re trying to advise clients. As the expert, it’s your job to debunk them. Murdock London Master Barber, Miles Wood-Smith, dispels some of these common misconceptions:

‘Wearing hats causes baldness.’

While it’s best not to wear a hat every day, as they can put extra pressure on the hair, it won’t turn you bald. Through providing an extra layer of protection, a hat can actually be a good thing for thinning hair when it’s hot and sunny.

‘Hair grows faster in the sun.’

Yes, Vitamin D does make hair grow slightly quicker, but you won’t get enough of it during a two-week holiday to make a noticeable difference. Instead, over-exposure to the sun could dry hair out and cause breakage on longer hair.

‘There’s no difference between a £10 haircut and £50 haircut.’ Well, there certainly should be. For £50, you should be getting a full-on, tailored grooming experience with a highly skilled barber. A barber charging £10 however, will have significantly less time to really tailor the haircut or listen to your needs.

‘Baldness can be cured.’

Short of a full-on transplant, there is no quick fix to baldness. Certain products can help thicken individual hairs to give an appearance of more hair, but there is no miracle cure. A great haircut from an expert barber is your best bet for helping disguise those bald spots.

Taking horizontal sections from the crown down, use a deep-point cutting technique to break up the edges and create more movement throughout the back. Connect the back of the mullet to the top of the hair using a profile section from below the crown to the recession area of the head.

Cut exaggerated ‘peaks and valleys’ into the hair, this step is crucial for achieving a rough, textured result.

Before blow-drying with a diffuser, use a natural finish product – like the STMNT Curl Cream – to help create a soft, pre-styled shape. Blend both side panels from a grade 2 into a 3, before using your trimmer to create a blunt line curving from the peak of the hairline.

To bring out the extreme texture that’s been cut in, take your roughest matte products and work them into the hair in back-and-forth motions. I like to use the STMNT Dry Clay with a little Spray Powder for refinement.

BOSSIN’ itwith

5 Top Tips On Owning a Salon Chain |Brian Leo McCallum

Have a business plan. This is key for your salon chain’s success! Having a business plan with concrete goals and objectives will help your salons to run far more smoothly. The plan should pinpoint areas such financing, strengths and weaknesses, visions and values and areas for improvement.

1 3 4

Invest in training. This is essential to ensure your team are always at the top of their game. It will also keep your team members motivated at work and ensure their knowledge and skills are constantly being refreshed and improved.

Incite determination. When it comes to opening

business

As her first stop at Elaje draws to a close, Carolyn is now on the lookout for her next salon to train in 2024… If your salon is interested in experiencing free expert training from an international colour master, visit: www.rdr.link/HAN009

hair through colour, cuts and styling.

GLAMOUR GRIT GIRL POWER

In light of Allison Kirkby, the former Managing Director of Wella UK, being recently appointed as the first female CEO of BT, what better time to celebrate some of the industry’s most successful women bossing the business world today. From brand-founders and business role models to salon owners and first-class educators, we investigate what it truly takes to get to the top…

ANNAMARIE FREEMAN HEAD OF MARKETING AT HENKEL BEAUTY CARE PROFESSIONAL

I’ve been really lucky to have worked across all Henkel Beauty Care brands – I actually started as a junior on Clynol Salon Exclusive Perm! Even after 25 years, I still find the pace of innovation at Henkel combined with the creativity of the hairdressing industry completely inspiring. You have to have a passion for hair – I knew the second I walked into my first ever industry awards show, fresh from university, that this was the industry for me… and I have loved every minute since!

Being a woman in a leadership role in the business world can come with unique challenges and opportunities. It can be a real juggle balancing work with homelife (especially with two children), so it’s important to always be your authentic self. My Mum

Liz Griffiths Managing Director of ghd UK & Ireland

To be a trailblazer in this industry, you have to love it. I firmly believe that a deep respect, admiration and passion for the craft of hairdressing is just non-negotiable. I fell in love with the beauty industry as an intern, and it’s taken me from fragrances and colour houses to the dream role of managing ghd in the UK and Ireland. I truly feel it’s an enormous privilege to be at ghd during such an exciting time – not only are we launching revolutionary tech, but we are helping hairdressers to transform their clients daily!

What was the most valuable lesson you learnt as you were beginning your career?

Always proofread with fresh eyes!

What are the best pieces of professional advice you always try to live by?

1. Leading a big team is a social responsibility. Each of them has a family, household and obligations, so do not underestimate the role you have.

2. Don’t take everyone’s monkeys on your back. The famous Harvard Business Review study is well worth a read.

3. Repeat, repeat, repeat your vision. You can’t expect teams to have digested, heard and understood you the first time.

always told me that you get further in life being kind to people, and I like to think that I follow that ethos. To thrive in these kinds of roles, it’s crucial to stay focused on your goals but also be open to new ideas, and never get behind on emails… communication is key.

The main pieces of advice I would offer to other women aspiring to succeed in the business world would be: Always remain true to yourself; don’t say something you don’t believe Be able to support your opinion with more than just emotion; use substance and facts wherever possible. Make the most of every opportunity that comes your way. Finally, trust your instincts; deep down you know whether something is right or wrong – if something doesn’t feel right, it’s probably not!

All careers have highs and lows, but it’s how you respond to these that ultimately influences everything. Without a shadow of a doubt, a career highlight for me was moving to Paris to run the American brands portfolio for L’Oréal Professional Products Division across Europe. Seeing how each country in Europe is slightly differently regulated – the consumer behaviour, the hairdressing skill and business models – was mind-blowing, and it gave me new perspective as a leader in the industry who had spent the majority of her time in the UK.

The most challenging time in my career was ironically also the best time in my life – when I had my daughter. Having been so focused on career achievements and progression, I naturally felt I lost my identity a little at the beginning; I had all these fears about stepping out of the career ladder and letting others pass me by. In hindsight, it’s ridiculous and I’ve very quickly realised that being successful and happy in your personal life, makes you an even better, more content and successful leader. Plus, life is not a race. It’s about the quality and depth of things you learn along the way that sets you up for being the best.

Monica Teodoro

General Manager of Education and Professional Development at L’Oréal Professional Products UK & Ireland

Tell us about how you got into the hairdressing industry?

I discovered the world of hairdressing when I started my career at L’Oréal in Spain. I soon realised that I had entered an entrepreneurial world, a people-to-people industry where talents and passions are paired with an immense capacity to adapt, change and grow. For me, it’s like being part of a BIG creative family.

How long have you worked with L’Oréal?

I’ve been with L’Oréal UKI for 18 years, where I have been fortunate to work with and lead various different teams and functions. Today, I head

Education and Professional Development for the Professional Products Division. As a team, our mission is to empower the professional community to shape the future of our industry. We work towards building a more sustainable, inclusive and diverse space for current and future generations.

What do you love about your job?

I love the people – the incredible individuals I’m fortunate enough to work with and those I have met along the way. I love that I’m given the opportunity to work in an industry where people can shape their own personal

career path and ultimately achieve their individual aspirations.

Why do you think you are so successful – what attributes does this require?

Thank you, but it’s certainly not my success –its ‘our’ success. No one gets there alone. Working with a team reminds you that you learn every day, and yes, you make mistakes along the way but that is OK. It’s what you choose to make of those learnings that will enable you to grow. I’m a true believer that the sun rises every day, and with it brings new opportunities. For me, it’s important to have vision, clarity and focus, and the

courage to make the changes needed with empathy and respect.

What advice would you give to young women starting out in the hair industry and in business in general?

Surround yourself with people that lift you. Remember, you are enough –you got this! Finally, make sure you laugh and have fun along the way!

DebbIE

Digby CEO of Passion4hair

It was 1991 and I was sat in a 3.6.5 business class when it struck me – all the lecturers were men in a female dominated industry! At that stage of my life, I was two years into salon ownership and my business was growing with the help of an amazing, dedicated team.

I embarked on a personal development journey that led me to becoming the first female lecturer of 3.6.5. I came to learn that the proverb “the teacher learns most” is indeed a great truth, and standing in front of my peers and sharing what I had implemented only strengthened my business’s performance.

I opened my second and third salons and found myself teaching more and more. I worked alongside Leslie Spears, founder of 3.6.5, testing new concepts and delivering them to the members. Eventually in 2000, Leslie asked me to work as his Director of Education. A few years later, Paul Mitchell launched The Color, and as the official brand manager, I was the only hairdresser on the payroll. It was a challenging and fun time, I was working all over Europe, Australia and the USA developing business. I like to call this my “fake it until you make it” phase – so many times I felt out of my depth, but I always took a deep breath and dived in, with a smile on my face and

the energy to pull an elephant across a river.

In fact, I consider that decade as the ‘apprenticeship’ for my current role as CEO of Passion4hair. Whilst my journey has certainly not all been plain sailing, these are the three pieces of advice I would offer to young women today:

1. Surround yourself with likeminded people that you aspire to, people that will guide and lift you throughout your journey. Sometimes all it takes is an outsider perspective to tell you to slow down, or to question things that you can’t quite see.

2. What is meant for you won’t pass you by, as long as you put yourself in its way – so take advantage of every opportunity, you never know where they may lead. I was told – ‘never give up the opportunity to speak in public’ – it was great advice and has led me to outcomes I would never have believed possible.

3. W.I.N – What’s Important Now! As a one-parent family, there was a period of time where my work and home lives were constantly battling – if I was at work, I felt I should be at home and if I was at home, I felt I should be at work. However, I learnt to understand that my success at work was directly correlated to the quality of our home life. Today, I focus on finding the value and quality of time to maximise happiness and success in all areas of my life.

Girls on Top...

The Position of Women in the Hairdressing Industry

Elena Lavagni of Neville Hair and Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel gives her opinion…

In my opinion, the dynamics of women in the hairdressing industry have been largely overlooked and undervalued. Even though female hairdressers make up the majority of the workforce, there is still a significant gender wage gap in the industry, with many female hairdressers earning less than their male colleagues. This disparity has been attributed to the fact that the top-level positions are often dominated by men.

Hairdressing is often seen as an occupation suitable for women, leading to women becoming pigeonholed into certain roles and not being given access to the same opportunities as men. This gendered division is particularly limiting for women who wish to advance in the industry, as promotions tend to be offered to men instead.

Female hairdressers have so much to offer; they are more adept at providing a unique level of care and attention that, in my opinion, is not found with men. I believe that women are able to take the time to truly understand the needs of their clients and ensure that their services are tailored to the individual.

Personally, I think women are also typically better at creating a comfortable and inviting atmosphere, which is ideal for customers looking to relax. There are special qualities that women bring to the industry that men often cannot; women have demonstrated an instinct for providing superior levels of care and attention; they are also more likely to push boundaries and experiment with colour services, giving them a competitive edge over men in the hairdressing business.

Women in our industry face a variety of issues that prevent them from reaching their full potential. In order for them to become equal partners in the industry, women need to be given the same opportunities as their male counterparts. I believe that these positive changes would not only benefit female hairdressers, but the entire industry as well.

In today’s society, gender equality is a hot-button issue, especially in the workplace. Our industry is no different, as female hairdressers are constantly battling gender-based discrimination. There are often fewer career advancement opportunities available to women, for example, as salons often promote based on

seniority, which typically favours male workers. This perpetuates the historical gender bias, traditionally supporting men as the ‘true masters’ of the craft.

Also, the ‘consumer perception’ often contributes to women being overlooked in the hairdressing industry. Many clients prefer to have their hair cut by a male hairdresser as they believe they can offer a higher quality service.

So, what can we do to change this? One way is to provide increased access to training and education for women, so that they can update their skills and compete for more advanced positions. For example, access to technical skills such as styling, cutting and colouring could be made available through government-funded schemes or even open-source learning. I believe this could lead to increases in wages, improved working conditions and recognition for female hairdressers as equally skilled professionals.

It’s also important to value the skills and expertise of female hairdressers. By encouraging respect for their work and giving them opportunities to demonstrate their skills, it can help to create an equitable and diverse workplace. This could come in the form of mentoring initiatives or the provision of flexible working hours so that women’s unique circumstances are taken into account.

Finally, the hairdressing industry should recognise the value of community. Hairdressing is traditionally a very social profession, and involving local communities in workplaces can create a sense of safety and support. This could include events and networks designed to empower female hairdressers and provide them with a platform to showcase their work.

Do you agree with Elena...?

In today’s society, gender equality is a hot-button issue, especially in the workplace. Our industry is no different, as female hairdressers are constantly battling gender-based discrimination.

Jacqui McIntosh, Avlon UK European Education Director:

I worked my way up through hard grit and extreme passion. I come from a family that instilled me with the confidence and armour to navigate my way through society, and I’m forever grateful to my parents for that tough love.

I’ve found that some individuals often don’t like people that look like me entering certain spaces – or if they do, they want you there on their terms. The micro-aggressions are wild for women. Sadly, these subtle, constant jabs can often go under the radar; blink and you’ll miss them.

With maturity I’ve learnt how to manage myself when these situations arise – I will not allow the fear of others to stop me from doing what I love, nor should any woman. What others think of you is none of your business, your business is focusing on being your best self – I try to live by that every day.

Melenie Tudor, Salon Director at En Route Hair & Beauty:

In my early days as a hairdresser, which was 40 years ago, there was still a definite divide between men and women – the men seemed to get all the kudos, so that was very frustrating. I think that’s changed a lot, but I still feel women have to shout that little bit louder to get their name out in the industry

When I decided to open my own salon in 1997, my biggest worry was being a full-time working mum. That was a real challenge and I still feel it’s the biggest challenge for working mums today. I think working women always feel guilty, so I do everything I can to ensure my team can work around their children’s needs and are able to have time off to go to school events etc.

However, on the flip side, I believe our industry creates independent women, and that’s what I’m most proud of. When I volunteered for Schwarzkopf Shaping Futures in India, it was such an achievement to teach young, disadvantaged women about hairdressing, knowing it could give them the freedom and independence to look after their children and put a roof over their head.

Victoria Lynch, Founder of Additional Lengths

Jordanna Cobella, Wella Professionals UK Ireland

Colour Trends Ambassador:

A lot of the leading brands in our industry have male ambassadors representing them – 83% of UK hairdressers are female, yet 90% of our top ambassadors are male. This inequality needs to change I have really had to fight for my worth in this industry, and I wouldn’t be where I am now if I hadn’t. My advice is to play the part you believe you deserve, and always act with professionalism (our industry can sometimes blur those lines). Finally, believe you can achieve anything – even if you know you have to work harder as a woman.

OF UK HAIRDRESSERS ARE FEMALE, YET 90% OF OUR TOP AMBASSADORS ARE MALE.

In the early days of starting the business, I always felt that women weren’t taken seriously, and it was very much seen as a man’s world – not only within the hair industry, but in the business world as a whole. Thankfully, since then things have evolved over the last two decades.

Whilst the hair industry is predominantly female-led, it’s taken a long time for women to be seen and heard in top-level positions. Women know what women want, and we are all working towards creating great products that we know our customers will want to see. As women, we should empower each other to be the best we can possibly be

Samantha Cusick, Founder of StA Studios:

Aged 28, I decided to open my own salon and create a business model that put people first.

I found a space in Notting Hill, but the agent’s lack of foresight demanded that this ‘little girl’ paid a double deposit What he failed to recognise was that this girl’s financial projections came from the turnover I was producing in my previous position… I paid off the double deposit loan within 12 months and had the extra deposit refunded within three years. Being a female in business isn’t easy, but it is important that you don’t let other people’s expectations limit your own beliefs.

I vividly recall a male sales representative visiting me with a box of chocolates. It left me wondering if this gesture was aimed at persuading me to make a purchase. I couldn’t help but question whether he treated his male clients to chocolates as well.

JENNIFER SWAIN, OWNER OF HOUSE OF SWAIN

Rianna Henry, ghd Pro Team and Educator:

As a woman and a mother in the industry, I have found that I’m often overlooked for certain jobs because it’s assumed I don’t want to be away from home or don’t have the childcare etc. The assumption is often that motherhood trumps my career, but for me that just isn’t true – I have the most amazing work/life harmony and I’m smashing both my career and motherhood

Michelle Griffin, Director at Loxbox Extensions:

Sophie Benson, Keune UK Education Manager:

I am really proud to work in such an incredible industry in the position I’m in. Being a good mum, the Keune UK Education Manager and a strong (but fair) people manager is hard to juggle all at once, but here are my tips for feeling like you have it all:

● Surround yourself with good people, stay close to those who care for you and have similar values to your own. This helps build your network and provides support when things get hard, but it also keeps you being real.

● Set boundaries and learn to say ‘no’. Time is precious, and when you are juggling so many things at once, something has to give (or it will end up being you!) People may not always like the word no, but they will eventually respect you for it.

● Do it all with good hair! Practice what you preach, represent yourself in the best way you can, you deserve it.

Tish and Snooky Bellomo, Founders of Manic Panic

I started my hairdressing career in 1986. I was 22-years-old, and even though I came from a business-focused family, it was a steep learning curve from the offset. I invested all of my time learning how to navigate a nerve-inducing new landscape, whilst also learning very quickly that it was a different one for women than it was for men – especially when you have a family. However, I’ve learnt over the years that nothing good comes from comfort zones, and I quickly found my feet, building a coterie of trusted individuals around me (from accountants and salon managers to solicitors) to help me in the areas I didn’t understand, or didn’t have time to manage myself. But even though I now have experience on my side – and women are much more empowered today than they were when I started out in business – I still come up against men who prefer to deal with men, so navigating this can continue to be challenging. With all of this in mind, I would say that business is a constant learning curve – there’s no linear route to success.

Being women and young was certainly an obstacle when we first started Manic Panic back in the 1970s. Women, especially young women, weren’t taken as seriously as men. The fact that we looked different with our punk clothing and creatively coloured hair was also held against us in the business world.

To get to the top takes lots and lots of determination, relentlessness, (almost) never taking no for an answer, never giving up, the ability to roll with the punches, the ability to quickly pivot when necessary and the ability to quickly creative problem-solve.

Louise Howard-Long, Owner of Architect Hair

When we moved from our first very tiny salon to larger premises, I used to find it hugely frustrating when contractors would address any conversation about the salon building work to one of my male stylists! Even after they knew it was me that was in charge, they would talk through the guys, thinking I wouldn’t understand.

Only a couple of years ago, I wanted to talk to the (male) owner of a well-known UK brand about how my salon could take on his products. Surrounded by admiring hairdressers, he was always willing to chat and banter with the male salon owners (and to flirt with female stylists young enough to be his daughters!), but he had no interest in engaging with me, the invisibility of middle-aged women to certain men is immensely frustrating!

The best advice that I could give is to have confidence in your judgement, but also to cherish the more intuitive, softer, kinder attributes that are generally seen as being ‘more female’. Remember, the soft skills of women that hold big teams together are so often underrated… use them to your advantage!

Melissa Timperley, Founder of Melissa Timperley Salons:

Karine Jackson, sustainability consultant

You’ve got this! Sometimes we can be our own worst enemy with imposter syndrome kicking in (especially with social media showing us how amazing everybody else is!), but don’t let that steer you off course – we all have something unique to offer. Remember to follow your gut –when I started, no-one was using organic colour and it felt like I was swimming against the tide. Everyone thought I was mad to promote organic products and sustainability, but I stuck with my passion and now it’s a different world!

Don’t be scared to ask for help, it’s not a sign of weakness – every successful woman in business I know has a team around them. I applied for a female mentorship programme with Vital Voices –their GAP (global ambassadors programme) connects women leaders (mentees) with established women executives (mentors) for business and leadership mentorship. This experience was incredible – even though we’re in different industries, we’re all still in touch and supporting each other.

Women in the hair industry have long encountered multiple challenges due to their gender. Beyond the general biases that women face in their professional lives, those in our industry have had to contend with specific hurdles: historically, hairdressing has been unfairly perceived as a derogatory career choice, particularly for women without good educational qualifications, insinuating the idea that their skills and aspirations are limited. Additionally, the stereotype of women having to prioritise motherhood over their work has caused many to temporarily set aside their dreams, often leading to breaks in their careers and missed opportunities.

Despite these adversities, women in our industry have exhibited remarkable resilience, defying stereotypes and excelling in their craft. Our collective efforts to debunk these biases and create an inclusive environment that recognises the value and potential of ALL individuals is something I want to be known for, and I hope to inspire younger generations of female hairdressers to go after their dreams.

“My estate agent refused to show me properties until I proved my husband’s job and what role he would be taking in the business.”

GINA CONWAY

Gina Conway, award-winning salon owner

23 years ago, whilst looking for a new salon location, myestate agent refused to show me properties until I proved my husband’s job and what role he would be taking in the business. I informed him that it was my business and he was not involved, yet he still refused to help. After several attempts with other agencies, finally one motioned me to pop in and sneak around and, if serious, he would meet me there. I felt discriminated against from my first foray, but I knew I had to dig in, work harder, smarter and be more innovative than ever before

If I were to advise a female entrepreneur in the industry, I’d say worry less about balancing the family life, as this can kill the rise of the career woman - instead, bring the family into the business and make it part of the process. I had my kids helping out in the salon from the age of eight – now I can say that my 17-year-old is blowing me away with her professionalism and vision already. Having a family shouldn’t stop you from playing in the deep end. Allow your friends, family and a network of any other amazing women to help you if you need a life raft.

Tina Hollis, The Lonely Boss Lady

Women today have to wear many hats and juggle responsibilities in every aspect of their life whilst maintaining an image of ‘I’ve got this’ Gone are the days when women weren’t the bread winners of the family, we are now expected to hold down our jobs whilst being a mother/wife –basically picking up the slack in all areas! I think women who are setting out in business work harder than anything to prove themselves, women are harder on themselves and quite often don’t recognise how far they’ve come because they always are driving forward to the next step.

My advice for women starting out is to have a good support network around you. For me, my husband encourages and supports me, but my mum is the one that I can rely on to help with that extra childcare and the pep talk when I feel the mum guilt. It’s important to have balance and set aside time for other things that matter, as well as stepping back sometimes to give yourself a break. Having someone to talk things through is great – you don’t have to be a lone island!

The one piece of advice I would give to other women starting their salon-owner journey – implement boundaries, not barriers. You may feel like you’re protecting yourself by putting barriers up, but it actually creates a “them” and “us” narrative.

GENNA GREENACRE, CO-OWNER AND FOUNDER OF VINE HAIR

On the flip side...

Natasha Grossman, General Manager at HOB Salons

I personally don’t feel that women face different obstacles to men in the hairdressing industry. As a woman with two kids myself, I believe that it’s just one of life’s facts that it’s the woman that carries the child and has to take time out from their career to have a baby – this, however, has not stopped me from forming and building a wonderful career. Regardless of your gender, if you want something badly enough, nothing will stand in your way.

I don’t really think that women face any different obstacles to anyone else –it’s just how you rise to them that matters. If you make something an issue then it will be, whatever it is. Just keep pushing forward at your own speed, and when a door opens leap through it!

I don’t think there are any barriers for women in hairdressing; you get what you put in. My advice for any young hairdresser would be to assist whenever you can, reach out to those you admire for guidance and surround yourself with inspirational women – there’s no right or wrong way to progress in your career, so choose your goal and chase it!

Sally Brooks, Co-Founder of Brooks & Brooks

Ria Kulik, Owner of The HairBank

STAR STRUCK

CHRISTMAS GIFTING IS WRITTEN IN THE STARS

THIS SEASON WITH GHD’S SHIMMERING DREAMLAND COLLECTION.

Welcome to a galaxy of gorgeous ghd gifts to elevate your hair game beyond the stars. Dusted in an alluring jade and enhanced with pink metal accents, these limited edition celestial tools come enclosed in dusky pink velvet cases for the ultimate seasonal glamour.

ELEVATEYOURHAIR GAME BEYONDTHESTARS...

STARQUALITY

ghd Dreamland Limited Edition Platinum+ Styler RRP £239

For seasonal star quality, the ghd platinum+™ SMART styler features Ultra-zone™ technology that responds to the hair, controls heat and predicts personal hair needs. It’s the ultimate multi-tasker for creating a whole galaxy of hairstyles and comes with a complimentary case worth £60.

GIFTAGALAXYOF GOODHAIRDAYS...

THEGIFT OFGOLD

ghd Dreamland Limited Edition

Gold Styler RRP £189

Seasonal, sleek silhouettes that shimmer and shine make the ghdgold® advanced professional styler a festive must-have. This limited edition tool also includes a complimentary velvet vanity case worth £60.

STELLARSTYLE

ghd Dreamland Limited Edition Deluxe Set

RRP £418

Seasonal hair sensations will be created with this Deluxe Set. This star-studded combo features the ghd platinum+™ styler and ghd helios™ professional hair dryer and also includes a complimentary velvet vanity case worth £100.

STARLIGHT EXPRESS

ghd Dreamland Limited Edition

Glide Hot Brush RRP £169

For festive, frizz-free styling and heavenly, healthy-looking hair in just a few strokes, the iconic ghd glide™ hot brush uses ceramic technology to consistently deliver at the optimum styling temperature of 185ºC. It comes with a complimentary velvet vanity case worth £60.

OUT OF THIS WORLD

STRATOSPHERIC STYLING

ghd Dreamland Limited Edition

Helios Hair Dryer RRP £189

Give the gift of stratospheric styling with the ghd helios™ professional hairdryer. With its unique Aeroprecis™ technology and a bespoke contoured nozzle, super volume will play a starring role this season, and it comes with complimentary velvet wash bag worth £30.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND TO VIEW THE WHOLE DREAMLAND COLLECTION, CONTACT YOUR GHD BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER OR CALL 01924 423400

NEW ghd Duet Style

2-in-1 Hot Air Styler

RRP £389

Elevate your hair game beyond the stars with the new ghd duet style hot air styler. Blending the best of drying and heating technologies for a stunningly simply styling routine, the Air-fusion™ technology channels an concentrated airflow through a bespoke drying chamber for beautifully smooth, sleek and shimmering results.

Set Includes: NEW ghd duet style, plus complimentary sleek talker styling oil and black velvet vanity case, worth £95.

Unleash galactic glamour even further with other best-selling ghd styler, dryer and curler core gift sets available, each with complimentary products and accessories!

HAPPY LEADERS

Grace Salon Leadership was founded in 2019 by me, Polly Rose, a multi-salon owner for over 35 years! My mission is to inspire salon leaders to live their happiest life and to lead with kindness to create a great salon culture and successful business where everybody feels they can be their best selves. I believe people do their best work by thriving in an environment that recognises, accepts and celebrates the differences within the team. In this series, I want to help you to become a happy leader…

Leadership is an ongoing journey; you never stop learning and you’ll never be finished. This month, I’m going to give some examples of leadership styles I’ve observed and illuminate the disparity between the results they achieve...

You have some people who consider themselves managers and will do absolutely that–‘manage people’. It’s a ‘do as I say’ situation – their way or the highway! They often regard themselves as being smarter than everyone else and pay no attention to the team or their opinions. People work for them, not with them. This is a very outdated form of leadership and usually results in a very high employee turnover.

Alternatively, many people are not comfortable in a position of leadership. These people avoid conflict; they bury their head when action needs to be taken. At first, these types of leaders are regarded as really nice people to work for, but resentment soon builds, and when team members see them ignoring bad behaviour, their respect is soon lost.

Others have a good relationship with their people. As leaders, they meet their objectives and are happy to leave it at that. They have no desire to reach for the next level or encourage those they lead to explore their full potential. This leads to team members never feeling fulfilled and, as a result, they are eager to leave when a better career opportunity comes along.

I have also come across leaders who are so driven that they never take their foot off the pedal. They set goals and aim for perfection. They push their team to get results and – often under immense pressure – the team delivers. However, this form of leadership can often lead to stress

and burnout; in the long term, it is not sustainable for the team or their leader.

Finally, there are those leaders who really care for those they lead. They take it upon themselves to offer opportunities for growth and development and can see the potential in everyone; they are totally selfless and want everyone working with them to feel fulfilled. They lead with courage and an open heart, admitting to feeling fearful and permitting their people to feel vulnerable at times, too. This type of leadership undeniably builds trust and promotes a healthy salon culture where creativity and productivity grow.

Do you recognise your leadership style in any of the above?

One thing I do know, is that the leaders who put their people first are usually the most admired and respected. These leaders have the edge, the ability to create harmony and strong relationships within the team. The most revered leaders are those who recognise that their behaviour can have a huge impact on the lives of the people they lead. Our role as leaders will never be finished; it is not a destination but a journey. Take time to consider how you can advance your leadership style and become the very best you can be. Let your actions encourage the team to engage and express themselves, rather than disengage and defend themselves.

What traits do you wish to practice as part of your leadership style?

In next month’s edition, I’m going to talk about:

● How trust has to be a top priority for any leader.

● How to build trust within a team.

THE ROLE CALL

inQUESTION...

Dissecting the Pros and Cons of Employing a Receptionist

Graham Clarke, CEO, Murdock London

The operation of a hair salon or barbershop involves more than just delivering exceptional haircuts and styling services. The presence of a receptionist plays a pivotal role in enhancing customer experiences, managing appointments and contributing to retail sales.

PROS:

Enhanced Customer Experience. A receptionist is often the first point of contact for clients visiting a hair salon or barbershop. Their warm greetings, professionalism and assistance in scheduling appointments create a positive first impression, setting the tone for the entire visit.

Efficient Appointment Management. A receptionist’s primary responsibility is to manage the appointment schedule. This ensures that customers are accommodated promptly, minimising waiting times and enhancing overall customer satisfaction.

Revenue Generation Through Upselling. Receptionists can play a crucial role in boosting retail sales by suggesting and promoting haircare products and other retail items. Their ability to engage customers in conversations about these products can significantly contribute to additional revenue streams.

Professional Call Handling. Having a dedicated receptionist allows the salon or barbershop to manage phone inquiries more efficiently. Clients seeking information about services, pricing or availability receive accurate and courteous responses, creating a positive brand image.

Focal Point for Communication. Receptionists serve as a central hub for communication between clients and stylists. They relay special requests, preferences and instructions, ensuring that the hairstylists are well-prepared to meet the clients’ expectations.

Streamlined Operations. By managing appointments, walk-ins and customer inquiries, receptionists free up the hairstylists’ time to focus on providing high-quality services. This enhances overall salon efficiency.

CONS:

Cost Considerations. Employing a receptionist adds to the salon’s overhead costs. This includes salary, benefits, training and equipment. Small salons or barbershops might find it challenging to allocate resources for an additional staff member.

Staffing Challenges. The ideal candidate should possess a blend of customer service skills, organisational abilities and industry knowledge. This process can be time-consuming and demanding.

Variable Workloads. The demand for receptionist services might fluctuate throughout the day, leading to periods of high activity and others of relative calm. Managing such variable workloads effectively requires careful planning.

Retail Competency. While a retail-savvy receptionist can boost sales, not all candidates may possess the necessary expertise. Finding individuals with previous retail experience can be challenging, limiting the potential benefits of upselling retail products.

Dependency on Technology. Many salons use specialised software for appointment scheduling and client management. Dependence on technology introduces the possibility of technical glitches, which could disrupt operations and customer satisfaction.

Resource Allocation. The time a receptionist spends on retail-related tasks might reduce the time available for other essential duties, such as phone management and appointment coordination.

Conclusion

In the dynamic world of hair salons and barbershops, the employment of a receptionist offers both advantages and challenges. The receptionist’s role goes beyond managing appointments and phone calls; they can significantly impact retail sales, customer satisfaction and overall salon efficiency. However, the decision to hire a receptionist should be made with a thorough assessment of the shop’s size, resources and the potential benefits they can bring. While previous retail experience is a valuable trait, it’s important to consider a candidate’s overall suitability for the role to ensure a seamless integration into the salon’s operations.

NEED-to-KNOW

TRICHO

WHAT ADViCE CAN I GiVE TO MY CLiENTS ABOUT MENOPAUSE AND HAiR LOSS?

The discussion around menopause has been making major headlines this year, with the media finally giving the important topic the attention it deserves. But when it comes to haircare, do you know enough about menopause and hair to confidently talk to your clients about it? Nioxin ambassador and globally recognised trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), explains the intricacies of menopause and hair loss, and the advice you should be offering clients.

According to Nioxin, around 40% of women notice hair thinning after menopause, but what about perimenopause? Is this truly a thing before the big ‘M’ kicks in?

A few years before the onset of menopause, women start a perimenopause stage, where the ovaries start to make less oestrogen. Perimenopause is the start of huge physical changes the body has to adapt to – this is when thinning hair usually starts to happen. Often, you won’t realise the hair is thinning until you have lost around 50% of its density, so it may not be noticed until you actually get to the menopause itself, even though it has been happening for the last couple of years.

How does your client know if their thinning hair is due to menopause or something else?

I advise all my female trichology patients to ask their GP for a blood test to establish if they’re in perimenopause or menopause, as I think a woman should know what point she is at on her journey through life.

What actually happens to the body in order for it to shed hair?

When a woman goes through the menopause, levels of oestrogen

and progesterone tend to fall – these are the hormones that the hair really likes. A reduction of these hormones interrupts the growing cycle (Anagen Phase) of the hair, meaning the hair may not grow for as long, in turn not reaching the length it’s used to. The reduction of these hormones can also mean that the hair becomes finer (Miniaturisation), fragile and can break more easily, in turn hugely impacting the amount of hair a woman has left on her head.

What is the best advice to offer clients on how to deal with thinning hair?

● Don’t ignore it. Your client will recover from this and it’s not going to last forever, but in the meantime, I recommend they ‘fake it until they make it’.

● Eat well.

You can only grow great hair if you are eating well. Drinking plenty of water and eating a healthy, well-balanced diet is crucial to reducing hair loss and

growing fantastic hair. Hair is made up of around 85% protein, so I recommend that you eat around 100 grams of protein a day for maximum hair health.

● Introduce a suitable hair loss regime. The Nioxin 3-part system kits are a perfect way to approach hair thinning the moment you suspect any changes in your hair density. Each system is designed for a different hair type depending on the level of thinning and if the hair is coloured or chemically treated.

● Experiment with a scalp exfoliation treatment.

This in-salon service is an excellent way to revive the scalp. Another impact in the reduction of oestrogen and progesterone is dry skin –particularly a dry scalp – so the build-up of dead skin cells needs removing to help create the best clean environment for optimal hair growth.

“I advise all my female trichology patients to ask their GP for a blood test to establish if they’re in perimenopause or menopause, as I think a woman should know what point she is at on her journey through life.”

art'e

VISIONARIES 2023

“This year has been a memorable one for this team – they are definitely names to watch out for as they will be cast time and time again in reflection of their creative expertise. It has been a pure joy teaching them – rounding up with this terrific keepsake that will prove to be timeless.”

Mentor & Revlon Global Ambassador, Mark Leeson

Hair & Styling: Revlon Professional Visionaries Team 2023

Make-Up: Lauren Mathis Photography: Richard Miles

Ashley LongEmy RoccabellaJessie StrideDanny MaloneDodge MacKay

Hair by: Ashley Long at Directors @ashleyatdirectors

Hair by: Jessie Stride at Pink Soda Hair

@jessierouxhair

Hair by: Danny Malone at MACC Hair

Hair by: Dodge McKay at Andrew Jose

Haringtons

Hair: Richard Scorer, Haringtons Make-Up: Ruth Warrior Styling: Melina Mehic Photography: Chloe Mallet

Arjan

Bevers

Eloquent Collection

NETHERLANDS

Hair: Arjan Bevers

Make-Up: Mireille Bevers Brunt

Styling: Annet Veerbeek

Photography: Ivo de Kok

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

Go Natural Go Gorgeous Go Goldwell!

UNLEASH AUTHENTIC COLOUR: GO GORGEOUS ELUMEN NATURALS

NEW Natural Elumen Shades

Get creative with Elumen! Now available in four additional NN shades to increase your colour services even further. With its unique, non-oxidative, ammonia-free and gentle formula, Elumen provides up to 100% grey coverage, extraordinary colour intensity and incredible shine –dimensional coverage that keeps the highs and lows from within with a natural finish. Plus, it is perfect for clients with scalp sensitivity to conventional oxidative colours.*

INCREDIBLE SHINE MEETS BRILLIANT COVERAGE.

Colour Different. Naturally.

● Non-oxidative solution, now in six shades.

● Dimensional coverage that keeps the highs and lows from within.

● Gel-consistency, even colour application and coverage for all hair types, including coarse hair structures.

● Shiny result on natural hair.

GREY HAS NEVER LOOKED THIS GORGEOUS!

Full Dimensional Grey Coverage.

● Natural shades for up to 100% dimensional grey coverage.

● Oxidant-free hair colour with exceptional durability and shine.

● Grey beautification for all hair levels.

“I love Elumen

Naturals because they give such a beautiful shine. They’re also a brilliant alternative for clients with scalp sensitivity, as they significantly reduce the risk of your client developing an allergy to hair dyes.”

Lydia Wolfe, Goldwell Ambassador

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. BEAUTY BEGINS ON THE INSIDE

Introducing the latest innovation from L’Oréal Professionnel, Absolut Repair Molecular, an in-salon and at-home regimen designed to strengthen the hair’s peptide structures at a molecular level. With a bergamot, white lavender and sandalwood scent, the luxurious but science-driven formula promises to reinvigorate any hair routine and add strength and body with every wash.

www.rdr.link/HAN011

2. RISE AND SHINE

Take your service and customisation routines to the next level with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Fibre Clinix Bonding Oils. Delivering deep nourishment and long-lasting repair through bonding properties, the lightweight, multifunctional and transformative formulas help prevent damage for an all-encompassing boost of smoothness and shine!

www.rdr.link/HAN012

3. BEACH HAIR, DON’T CARE

Crafted with body and volume in mind, INSIGHT has launched its new Texturizing Sea Salt Spray. Through its organic extracts and naturally inspired formulation, the spray allows you to create gorgeous waves whilst ensuring the hair remains free from grease. The entire INSIGHT range is made from 98% naturally derived ingredients.

www.rdr.link/HAN013

4. GOTHIC GLAMOUR

Embracing its inner goth, Denman’s latest pattern release plays with scorpions, skulls and snakeskin to add individuality and attitude to any kit bag. The new Gothic Collection includes the Denman Deluxe D81M Scorpion Style and Shine Brush, the Denman D38 Deluxe Snake Power Paddle and the Denman DC11 Orchid Skull Detangling comb.

www.rdr.link/HAN014

5. SHINE ON YOU CRAZY DIAMOND!

Discover more ways to LumiShine with the new Gold, Warm Copper and Natural Beige shades from Joico. For use alone or intermixed, the three gleaming shades are designed to boost shine and increase the versatility of your LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid palette. With a pH balance for optimal colour performance, the palette is ideal for enhancing the hair’s shine.

www.rdr.link/HAN015

6. SUMMER DAYS DRIFTING AWAY…

Designed with stylists in mind, Neäl & Wølf have launched a rich and intensely conditioning HYDRATE Moisture Mask to transform dry hair in just one use. With a special blend of ingredients chosen to retain and restore moisture, the mask aims to revive clients’ dry summer hair as we head into the autumn season.

www.rdr.link/HAN016

7. PRECISE UP YOUR LIFE!

Introducing the brand-new Neo Liner from Wahl, the ultimate cordless trimmer. Ideal for adding the finishing touches around necklines and hairlines, the trimmer uses 32mm wide high-precision blades for long-lasting sharpness and precise trimming.

www.rdr.link/HAN017

8. TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE

Alfa Italia has relaunched the Tropea Interchangeable Pro Styling Wand as two new styling kits. Whilst the Multi-Wave Styler –comprised of a 32mm extra-long barrel and mermaid waver clip – is ideal for creating soft, voluminous curls on longer hair, the Multi-Wave Curler on the other hand, uses three separate titanium barrels for ultimate short-haired curl creativity.

www.rdr.link/HAN018

9. JOIN THE GANG

Joining the original assortment of twelve, high-performance formulas, Schwarzkopf Professional’s SESSION LABEL launches two new styling heroes: THE JELLY, a flexible, non-sticky styling gel that sculpts, defines and tames the hair, and THE COAT, a multi-protection shine spray that leaves hair silky smooth and flawlessly shiny.

www.rdr.link/HAN019

10. ALL THINGS BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL

Unlock your clients’ perfect blonde with the new Platinum Plus duo from Paul Mitchell. Comprising of Shampoo and Toning Drops, the additions boast a brightness boost that will eliminate warmth and neutralise brassiness, leaving the hair soft and healthy with a beautiful shine.

www.rdr.link/HAN020

11. RESCUE, RESTORE, REJUVENATE

Introducing the new Bond Restore Shampoo, Conditioner and Recovery Treatment Mask from Crazy Color, designed to address the needs of bleached and weakened hair. This effective haircare trio combines Vitamin B, Vitamin E and Brazil Nut Oil into a unique Vegan Protein complex to provide a restorative treat for all hair types.

www.rdr.link/HAN021

12. STRENGTH IN NUMBERS

Encouraging stylists to give their clients salon hair every day, Shed has launched six new products as part of its styling collection: mirror mirror shine enhancing finishing spray, force-field heat styling protection spray, clay dough matte moldable styling clay, climate control anti-humidity protection spray, shape shifter pliable hair shaper and peace out dry wax texture spray.

www.rdr.link/HAN022

ZERO IN

Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA range gets hero status with the addition of ZERO AMM.

IGORA ZERO AMM from Schwarzkopf Professional is a new permanent colour line, free from ammonia and offering natural-looking results. Formulated with Phytolipid Technology and vegan ingredients, experience 46 true-to-tone shades all wrapped up in sustainable packaging –delivering the same reliable IGORA performance you love, minus the ammonia.

Ingredient-conscious salon clients are looking for ammonia-free hair colour options, without odour.

IGORA ZERO AMM offers a pleasant and odour-free salon service experience without ammonia, providing:

● A competitive assortment of 46 shades – ranging from comforting honey to vibrant red – without the need of a dedicated developer.

● A formulation of Phytolipid Technology and of natural micronised oils, consisting of Grape Seed Oil and Apricot Kernel Oil, to improve colour performance for

long-lasting, true-to-tone colour results.

● An infusion of Omega 9 unsaturated fatty acids to envelop the hair, supporting the moisture balance inside for optimal care performance.

● An improved colour direction, lift, neutralisation and coverage* for natural-looking, colour results.

www.rdr.link/HAN023

IGORA ZERO AMM is a simple solution to one of the most frequently asked colour questions we get from our clients, is my hair colour ammonia free?

It’s packed full of nourishing ingredients like Grape Seed and Apricot Kernel Oil which feeds the hair whilst giving true-to-tone, natural-looking results.

For salons taking on IGORA ZERO AMM, the added bonus is that there’s no need for a separate developer as the IGORA ROYAL Oil Developers are already ammonia free!

SIOBHAN HAUG

SCHWARZKOPF

PROFESSIONAL UK

AMBASSADOR AND SALON OWNER

● 100% ammonia-free dual application possibilities with IGORA VIBRANCE.

● Sustainable packaging –100% recycled aluminium tube, 100% recycled plastic cap and 92% recycled paper folding box.

* vs ESSENSITY

Diversity Don’t be Dull and Limiting

As salon owners and professionals, we strive to create spaces that are welcoming and comfortable for all our clients. In today’s diverse world, embracing inclusivity is not just a moral imperative, it is also the key to success in the salon industry.

By celebrating our differences and creating a culture of acceptance, we can achieve unparalleled growth and success. In this article by the NHBF, we explore the power of diversity, the importance of inclusion, and the financial benefits that come from catering to diverse customer needs.

Imagine a salon where every stylist is the same - the same background, the same experiences, and the same ideas. How dull and limiting would that be?

By embracing a diverse workforce, we open ourselves up to a world of possibilities. Different perspectives, skills and experiences enrich our salon environment and enable us to better cater to the

diverse needs of our clients. Successful salons that prioritise diversity consistently outperform their competitors.

Inclusivity means more than just welcoming people from different backgrounds; it means creating an environment where everyone feels valued and respected. When we foster an inclusive culture, we empower our employees to bring their whole selves to work, leading to higher job satisfaction and productivity. Moreover, an inclusive salon attracts a loyal and diverse client base. By showcasing diversity in our marketing campaigns and implementing inclusive

practices, such as offering gender-neutral pricing or providing multicultural haircare products, we ensure that everyone feels welcome and represented.

An inclusive salon is not only good for the soul, but it’s also good for the bottom line. By catering to the diverse needs of our clients, we tap into new markets and attract a broader customer base. For example, offering specialised services for different hair types or ethnicities can be a game-changer. By adapting to the demands of an ever-changing world, we increase customer loyalty and drive profits.

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, GROOMER AND NEW SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US – YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensonhair and @lukebensonsalon

ARCADIA MAGAZINE

This month, I had the pleasure of working on a cover shoot with PIXIE LOTT and her husband, OLIVER CHESHIRE, for their first ‘baby bump shoot’. The hair was a bit of a challenge as Pixie had a grown-out crop at this point, so I worked with Beauty Works clip-ins to achieve a glamorous wave that fitted the Barbie brief perfectly.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

I really enjoyed working on the new ‘Very’ campaign for Michelle’s latest collection. On day two, I was able to get my Leaf Scissors out and give Michelle a whole new look. It had a more textured, undone feel with a disconnected fringe area to create a bit of a cool-girl feel coming into the winter months.

I returned to the Netherlands for three days to create some content for Keune that focused on party hair tips and tricks as well as some beauty-inspired looks. It’s always so fun to go to HQ – my mind is blown by the sheer size of the place every time I’m there!

Behind the scenes of a super fun secret project out next year with model ISKRA LAWRENCE. We shot over three exciting days and, as you can see, we had to go to any lengths to get the look done with everyone working at once!

On one of the hottest days of the year, I finally got to open the doors to my brand-new salon! The air-con was well received as we were joined by Pro Hair’s Nicola and Tabitha, Keune CEO Eelco Keune, Head of Marketing Pauline Van Laethem and GM Darren Potter, along with lots of friends, family and new clients. With bubbles and beers flowing, the team and I got to celebrate the start of an exciting new adventure! Look out for an exclusive tour of Luke Benson Hair in the next issue!

@lukebensonhair

@lukeben

LUKE BENSON HAIR

MICHELLE KEEGAN

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

KEUNE HQ

VISIT: HAUG

NESTLED iN THE HEART OF LONDON’S BEAUTiFUL FiTZROViA, HUSBAND AND WiFE TEAM, PHiLiPP AND SiOBHAN HAUG, HAVE CREATED A SPACE THAT BLENDS PREMiUM SALON FUNCTiONALiTY WiTH A RELAXED, WARM AND HOMELY ATMOSPHERE.

LONDON HAUS

How did you decide on the style of your salon interior?

We chose the style of our interior by envisioning a space that is relaxed, inviting and homely. Our goal was to create an environment full of thoughtful touches, combining premium and polished elements with warmth and softness. We wanted an inviting atmosphere that encouraged guests to relax and enjoy their time.

Where did you find the inspiration for your design?

The inspiration for our salon design came from the idea of creating a comfortable home –particularly through the textures, tile patterns and warm wood elements, as well as the muted rich winter colours like Rosewood, Almond and Emerald green. Additionally, we drew inspiration from interesting finishes that clients could relate to in their own homes.

Did you use an interior designer?

Yes, we made an unconventional decision to enlist the help of a residential and hospitality interior designer to achieve the desired look and feel of the salon. Whilst they were not salon specialists, we collaborated to blend salon functionality with a beautiful design, focusing on warmth and relaxation.

What do you hope are your clients’ first impressions when they walk in? We hope that our clients’ first impressions when they walk into our salon are of comfort, relaxation and a sense of being at home. We want them to feel immediately at ease and drawn into the inviting atmosphere.

Do you have any curated pieces/special features in the salon?

Yes! The Haus Bar, inspired by the comfort of a host’s kitchen, serves delicious coffee, craft beer, Prosecco, snacks, treats and leaf teas. The Colour Lounge is also a purpose-built area for clients to relax during colour appointments.

What’s more, there are unique tile patterns and finishes throughout the salon, such as the warm concrete surface on the Haus Bar and the floral-shaped sink in the bathroom.

How have you embraced sustainability within the design?

We are members of the Green Salon Collective, so they recycle all of our metal, plastic and hair waste for us. We are also in the Borough of Westminster, so we recycle the rest of our residual waste through its eco-conscious schemes – its process is not to export waste like a lot of commercial waste collectors, nor is it taken to landfill.

What salon software do you use and what feature of it do you find most useful?

We use Phorest. We find the marketing tools are really helpful, they’ve helped us generate a lot of new business as well as allowing us to monitor how effective our marketing strategy is.

Did your product brand/colour house influence your style of interior design?

Absolutely! We have an open colour lounge where we keep our products on display, this is so clients can see their colour being mixed. We love the packaging of Schwarzkopf Professional colour ranges, such as BLONDME and IGORA, so we are very happy to have them on display!

What salon furniture have you chosen and why?

We use REM for salon furniture as they have amazing colour options and super comfortable basins; each piece was chosen to complement the overall warm and inviting design concept. We wanted to ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience for both clients and stylists.

Do you have a dress code for your team?

We don’t. We like the team to feel comfortable as well as give them the ability to express their personalities and identities through their style.

I am such a country music fan –I couldn’t be happier than when I’m listening to it live!

5minutes with SAMANTHA CUSICK

Samantha Cusick, Owner of Sta Studios, talks Building Sites, The Bear and Oversized Blazers.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU.

I wish there was such thing as a normal day, but the truth is that no two days seem the same –which, if I’m honest, I LOVE as it means there is never a dull day. There are some days where I am looking after my clients all day in one of my salons, others where I am devoted to content creation and working on exciting projects as part of my brand ambassador roles. I try to fit at least two-three days a week devoted to admin and meetings with my management team. I usually spend these days at my new space, Sta Studios, where I built a whole level just for coworking to make collaborating with teams much easier.

quick fire favourites

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

The non-negotiable thing I do every Sunday morning is take a trip to Columbia Road flower market – I can’t promise I’m not buying flowers for the salons, but I love going to the market, selecting the different types of flowers and arranging them into contemporary bouquets.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION? Not so much a latest collection as my new salon space; Sta Studios. Sta Studios is a high end, multi-dimensional, coworking space for freelance creatives in the hair and beauty industry. This is a concept that I have wanted to do for a long time, I LOVE my industry and really want to make a positive impact on it.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT?

Anything from the Frankie Shop, especially their oversized blazers – they’re so chic and make me feel like I mean business!

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS? When launching the new space, I decided to host a dinner in the building site. I wanted my peers to feel

TO VISIT: MY FAVOURITE PLACE IN THE WORLD TO VISIT IS THE LILY OF THE VALLEY HOTEL IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE (SEE BELOW!)

TO LISTEN: I’M SUCH A COUNTRY MUSIC FAN, SO ANYTHING IN THAT GENRE.

TO WATCH: CURRENTLY LOVING THE BEAR ON DISNEY PLUS.

TO EAT: CINNAMON BUN FROM FORTITUDE BAKEHOUSE IN LONDON.1 3 2 4 5

TO READ: I’M OBSESSED WITH READING BUSINESS BOOKS –CURRENTLY READING NEVER SPLIT THE DIFFERENCE, A BOOK ABOUT THE POWER OF NEGOTIATION.

involved with Sta from the very beginning through listening to what they thought of the design, asking their opinions and gaining insights that I could implement in the build. I was shocked that so many incredible hairdressers RSVP’d and came to have dinner in the building site – it was truly an unforgettable night and one of my proudest moments.

FOLLOW OUR insta @prohairmag

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are also interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Alan Howard............................................................(pages 18,19) www.rdr.link/HAN100

Additional Lengths........................................................(page 57) www.rdr.link/HAN101

BaByliss PRO............................................................(pages 10,11) www.rdr.link/HAN102

GHD..........................................................................(pages 38,39) www.rdr.link/HAN103

Great Lengths Dist.......................................................(page 33) www.rdr.link/HAN104

Schwarzkopf Professional..................(IFC Gatefold, page 3) www.rdr.link/HAN105

International Hair/ASP................................................(page 27) www.rdr.link/HAN106

Joico Zotos Europe........................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAN107

Kent Brushes................................................................(page 28) www.rdr.link/HAN108

Goldwell..........................................................................(page 41) www.rdr.link/HAN109

NHBF................................................................................(page 61) www.rdr.link/HAN110

Revlon Professional..........................................(page 68/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAN111

Takara Belmont............................................................(page 24) www.rdr.link/HAN112

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of Pro Hair. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information.