Gone Outdoors - October 2014

Page 1

October 2014

Magazine

Winterize Your Vehicle

2014 Top Off-Road Trails




Magazine

Vol. 1- Issue 1

GROUP PUBLISHER

Brandon Greenhill 205-733-4343 brandon@goneoutdoorsmag.com

EDITOR/ DIGITAL DIRECTOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Danny Thompson danny@goneoutdoorsmag.com

Jacklyn Greenhill jacklyn@goneoutdoorsmag.com

ADMIN. COORDINATOR

Annie McGilvray annie@goneoutdoorsmag.com

LEAD COORDINATOR

Steven Hobson steven@goneoutdoorsmag.com

CEO

PRESIDENT

Christy Hobson

Glen Hobson

Executive and Advertising Offices 951 1st Ave. W. Alabaster, AL 35007 phone: 205-441-5591 fax: 205-624-3354 www.goneoutdoorsmag.com glen@goneoutdoorsmag.com

Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is published twelve times a year on a monthly basis by H&F Media Group, Inc., 951 1st Ave. W. Alabaster, AL 35007 USA. Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is distributed free to qualified subscribers. Non-qualified subscription rates are $57.00 per year in the U.S. and Canada and $84.00 per year for foreign subscribers (surface mail). U.S. Postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama and additional mailing offices. Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is distributed to to qualified owners and managers in the industrial industry. Publisher is not liable for all content (including editorial and illustrations provided by advertisers) of advertisements published and does not accept responsibility for any claims made against the publisher. It is the advertiser’s or agency’s responsibility to obtain appropriate releases on any item or individuals pictured in an advertisement. Reproduction of this magazine in whole or in part is prohibited without prior written permission from the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to H&F Media Group, Inc., P.O. Box 1568 Pelham, Al 35124 PRINTED IN THE USA

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The Escape

The Gam

P6

P16 Early Season Hunting Tip

Tent Camping Tip’s Last Minute Checklist

P12 Tips & Tricks for Effective Trail Running


Contents The Escape The Game

The Rush

The Roar

The Usual

n Bow ps

P20 Cycling Accessories

P24 2014 Top Off- Road Trails

P4

The Editors Post

P34 New Product Spotlight P36 Ad Index

The Roar

P30 Winterize Your Vehicle- D.I.Y.

The Rush

me

Ad Index


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The Editor’s Post: It’s October! The time over the last few months has flown by all too quickly. Colors are changing making this one of the prime times to get out and enjoy the fresh air and the scenery. Halloween is right around the corner and Thanksgiving is following right on its heels. Let me say upfront, few things irk me like seeing Christmas slipping into the stores earlier and earlier each year. So it feels a little weird bringing Christmas up here myself, in the October issue. But I am. Because we want to know... what are you asking for this year? What is on your wish list as the perfect Outdoor-related present? The plan is to build the December issue around those things that our readers tell us they really want. Maybe even add in a giveaway or contest or two. And it will give you a convenient way to drop hints to friends and family who always wonder what to get you. We look forward to hearing from you on facebook (https://www.facebook.com/gonemag) or Twitter (@GoneOutdoorsMag)! #GoneGifting


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With every big trip there is a good amount of planning and forethought on what to do, where to go, and all the other logistics. Nevertheless, it is always good to have a checklist nearby before you head to make sure you have not forgotten anything. Here, is our list:

The Escape

By Jeff Marshall

Contents

Tent Camping Tip’s Last Minute Checklist

The Game The Rush The Roar Ad Index


1. Backpack a. Check to make sure the pack is secured snugly to the frame. If there are any broken parts, get them fixed before heading into the field.

b. Bring a small repair kit into the field for the pack. (This should include twine, duck tape, and some additional clamp pins). 2. Sleeping gear

a. Sleeping bag: Check the bag to ensure there are no holes. Ensure it is covered securely by a container and an additional trashbag to keep it protected from water, especially if crossing a stream or river.

b. Air Mattress or Cot: Make sure these do not have any holes and are in working order. (Always bring some duck tape to help patch any holes). 3. Tent

a. Check to ensure you have all the parts to the tent. b. Check to make sure no holes are in the tent.

c. Determine if additional padding needs to be included for weather conditions. 4. Knife

a. Make sure the knife has a sharp blade and its locking mechanism works properly.

b. It also pays to have two knives. One should be a multi-function knife like a swiss army knife and the other should be a strong single blade. Both come in handy in the field. 5. Hand Axe

a. Make sure the hand axe is sharp and has an appropriate sheath that is fastened securely. Bring a thick towel in the field. This can be used as a substitute sheath if the other sheath breaks down. b. As a matter of practice, a full sized axe is usually unnecessary. However, if you are planning on building lean-tos or other types of large sleeping structures, this will be the better way to go.

6. Clothes (The actual amount should be adjusted for length of camping trip) a. Long sleeve shirt. It should have a durable fabric that can breathe fairly easily. b. Long sleeved pants. These should also be of a durable fabric that are designed to go into the brush. These pants

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should stretch all the way down to your boots.

c. Additional layering, such as long johns or thermals should be used when appropriate. d. Underwear and undershirts.

e. Sleeping gear: In the summer, some shorts and a t-shirt will be fine; however, in the winter a pair of pajamas will be better. f. Socks: Have two kinds one that is a basic insulator and then have wool socks covering them.

g. Hat: Essentially you want a hat that is unlikely to get caught on brush and will provide some sun protection for your face. A baseball cap will work fine in the summer although a wool cap would work better in the fall and winter.

h. Poncho or rain jacket: This can also double as extra padding for your sleeping arrangement or used as a tarp for the fire. i. Belt: Should be a durable belt that is in good working order. 7. Shoes:

a. Hiking boots. Bring a durable pair that are waterproof and have a good rubber sole intact. b. Running shoes. Bring a durable pair to that is easy to slip on during the night to use the restroom or to wear around camp. c. Extra pair of shoelaces. Bring an extra pair of laces for both shoes. 8. Canteen:

a. Should be able to hold at least 2 quarts of water and provide either a strap to sling over your shoulder or a clip to attach to a belt. 9. Compass, GPS and map:

a. Make sure both items are in working order.

b. If GPS, needs additional batteries or will need to be recharged, plan accordingly to take this into account.

c. Map should be the most recent version you can find and should accurately show changes in topography. i. Make sure you understand how to read the map prior to going into the field. ii. Know where the nearest hospital is on the map.

iii. Have pre-established boundaries in your camping area


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that will let you know if you get lost. A stream or road can work very effectively as a boundary point. 10. First Aid Kit:

b. Water. Even if you are getting your water from a water source, it is a good idea to bring some water on hand.

a. Should include bandages, band aids and some medical tape.

c. Water jug. This can be used to house water at campsite. It can be propped on a stump or secured to a tree with rope.

11. Flashlight and Lantern:

a. Basically you really only need two sources of light.

i. A small flashlight to be able to look through your park in the dark. ii. A large flashlight that can be used for walking at night. b. A Lantern can be used for camp if needed. 12. Other Items:

a. Bandanas or Handkerchiefs. These can double as bandages or slings. b. Bug repellant and a fly swatter. The fly swatter may come in handy at the campsite as flies are attracted to grease and cooked food. c. Sunscreen.

d. Binoculars.

e. Strike anywhere matches in a water proof case. It is still a good idea to include a strike box and to divide the matches into two areas so to prevent the likelihood of water damage or losing all your matches.

13. Cooking Equipment: The amount and supplies will vary depending on your needs. Here, are the essential items: a. Frying pan b. Large pot

c. Plate and bowl

d. Fork and spoon

e. Small pot to boil water, tea, coffee, etc.

f. A basic boy scout mess kit will cover all of these items except the large pot. 14. Food:

a. Cooler: Will store food and keep ice cold. The type of cooler and amount of ice will vary depending on your cooking needs.

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i. Determine if water purification tablets will be needed.

d. Weight of Food Concerns. When selecting food supplies take into account their weight in choosing supplies. If weight is a concern, try to choose foods that have the water already taken out of it including dried fruit, drink powders, boxed foods. e. Garbage bags. These will be used for waste and rain protection.

15. Repair Kit: This should include twine, duck tape, and a needle and thread. 16. Toiletries: a. Wash cloth

b. Toilet paper

c. Baby Wipes: Can be used to clean hands and face. 17. Cell phone:

a. Bring one that has a great range for the area that can be used if an emergency phone call is needed.

This list is comprehensive by design. With experience as a tent camping, you can add or subtract from this list. However, it is good idea regardless of your experience, to test all new equipment. In fact, it is a good idea to also check the older equipment to make sure it is still in working order. With this said, the list above should put you in real good shape for camping supplies.

Jeff Marshall is an avid tent camper and former Boy Scout. To read more tips and advice like the ones in this article, please visit here:http://www.goingtentcamping.com/Tent-Camping-Tips


Our mission is to empower generations to enjoy the outdoors responsibly through education and stewardship. So join us. Try to use existing campsites, camp at least 200 feet from lakes and streams and pack out what you pack in. For more ways to minimize your impact while camping, go to www.treadlightly.org or call 1-800-966-9900.

Š2005 Tread Lightly!


Tips&Tricks

For Effective Trail Running By Cara Zolinsky

Trail running is a sport that easily attracts participants. The reason for its attraction is not hard to understand. Spending time outside amid nature’s bounty is pleasing to the senses and calming to the nerves. Every path-indeed, every step is different for a trail runner, who must constantly adapt to the changing terrain. This keeps a run from becoming boring, a condition that frequently afflicts pavement runners. But trail running presents challenges that are not present in pavement running. These challenges call for agility, responsiveness-and a strong core.

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Contents

The Escape The Game

The Rush

The Roar

Ad Index


Benefits of a Strong Core

A strong core is developed through working the abdominals and the lower back muscles. When trail running, these muscles provide stability by absorbing much of the impact of running, alleviating stress on the joints. Scientific research has shown that these muscles, called the lumbar stabilizers, contract to provide a corset of support around the spine, which transmits strength and stability to the legs. It is essential, therefore, that a trail runner develops a strong core before he or she develops any other skill in the sport of trail running. Effective Techniques for Core Strengthening

The TA isometric exercise is a simple, but extremely effective, technique for strengthening the core. The following steps of this technique may be performed while sitting or standing, but it is easier-at least in the beginning-to perform it while lying on one’s back: 1. Inhale slowly and deeply 2. Slowly exhale, emptying the lungs completely 3. Using the abdominal muscles, pull the belly button in toward the spine, which should remain in a neutral position. Breathing should remain steady. 4. Hold this contraction-navel to spine-for 5 to 10 seconds. 5. Slowly release 6. Repeat this sequence either several times in a row, or several separate times during the day. Kettlebell Thrusters will quickly and efficiently strengthen the core for trail running. Using a Russian kettlebell - a cast-iron weight with a handle-the following steps are performed in sequence: 1. Stand with the feet shoulder width apart and the kettleball (KB) on the floor in front of the feet. 2. The body’s weight should be concentrated in the heels 3. Keeping the spine straight, contact the abdominal muscles 4. Squat deeply, as if preparing to sit in a chair, with the hamstrings finally resting on the calves. 5. Pick up the kettleball with the left hand, plant the heels into the floor, and slowly stand while lifting the KB overhead. (The shoulder is not to be raised above the ear in this movement). 6. Hold this position, muscles tight 7. “Pull” the KB back down to the floor in a controlled movement, careful not to quickly release the tension 8. Repeat steps 1 through 7, working the left side, for the next 30 seconds 9. Rest for 30 seconds. 10. Switching the KB to the right hand, work the right side by repeating steps 1 though 7 for another 30 seconds. 11. Rest for 30 seconds 12. Try to work up to 9 minutes of kettlebell thrusters per session.

Once the core is sufficiently strong, it is time to choose a trail for actual trail running. Choosing a Trail Scout out trails in advance to make sure they are appropriate for running. Choose a trail that matches one’s fitness level and goals. Flat, even trails are suitable for beginners. More advanced

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runners, however, may prefer the challenge of trails that have some hills.

Tips for Effective Trail Running Though trail running is easier on the body than is pavement running, these tips will help to make the experience easier and more fulfilling:

Straighten up Keep the back straight to relieve any pressure to the spine and stress on the lungs. Even in a difficult uphill climb, it is advisable to slow down or walk (if necessary) while still maintaining proper posture. Eyes should be aimed a few yards ahead while trail running so as to observe any bumps, dips, turns, soft sand, and fallen trees well in advance of the approach to avoid injury

Stride and pace While climbing, it is advisable to use shorter strides on the incline. Leaning forward slightly is acceptable, but if one leans back it will lengthen the stride. Use the entire foot to cushion each step. Landing with the toes on a hill is not advisable for the calve muscles. The arms can assist with momentum and the breathing may increase; take deeper breaths as needed.

It is critical to control the speed of the descent downhill. Sudden braking will lead to sliding or falling. Allow the body to speed up naturally without leaning back. If a fall seems inevitable, try to slalom from side to side the way a skier would. This will help in regaining control and enable one to have a quick, light landing. Performing weighted squats and lunges between trail runs will the prepared the legs and provide enhanced stability. In general, trail running requires a slower pace as compared to pavement running. Planning to complete similar distances in the same amount of time is unrealistic. In fact, fewer miles should be traversed while trail running.

Safety First Safety should be the top priority in this, and any, sport. Trail running in pairs is strongly advised. If it is not possible to run with a friend, advise someone of the exact running route and the expected return time. Essential equipment to carry during the run may include fluid, fuel, a jacket, and a cell phone. It is also advisable to carry personal identification and any necessary medical information in case of an accident or other medical emergency.

Dehydration is a major concern for trail runners because it happens quickly at altitude. Longer runs require hydration packs but water bottles are sufficient for shorter runs. Bottle belts are recommended as they include storage compartments. This allows for other supplies (e.g., energy bars, a cell phone, bandaids, a small flashlight, electrolytes, maps, flares). Make a concerted effort to remember distinct markers, signs, or landmarks along the trail to lessen the chances of getting lost.

Following these proven tips and techniques will lead to a positive trail running experience; one that will likely be repeated for years to come. For more information about trail running visit [http://www. ultrafitnessdynamics.com].


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In many states, bow hunting season starts in August and goes all the way through the rest of the year. That gives a bow hunter a lot of time to hunt, but there are also lots of species that he may choose to pursue as well. Of all time throughout the late summer, fall, and early winter, early season bow hunting can be some of the most productive, as well as comfortable. Here we will discuss some early season bow hunting tips. Whether you are bow hunting early season whitetail, mule deer, blacktail, or elk, early season gives you a good advantage over other seasons throughout the year. 1. You are the hunting first pressure these animals will see for the year.

3. You will be competing with only other early season bow hunters so you won’t have any long range competition. 4. A lot of people associate bow hunting with cold fall days and don’t even bother with the early season, meaning less competition overall.

Scouting:

One of the main benefits you will have as an early season bow hunter is the fact that you will have plenty of time to pattern the bucks which should keep that pattern well into September. If you can figure out when and where they go on a daily basis, then you can intercept them by putting up some type of stand, either a tree stand or ground blind, and then wait for them to come by.

The Roar

Below is a list of early season bow hunting tips and tactics that will help you be more success full.

The Rush

2. You will have all summer to scout and pattern the animals.

The Game

By Chris N Jackson

The Escape

Tactics to Take Down That Early Season Buck

Contents

Early Season Bow Hunting Tips:

Ad Index


When scouting for early season bow hunting, there are several good methods to use. •

Morning and evening outings to a point where you can view deer hotspots without disturbing them is a great way to see what is on your early season bow hunting area and will give you good tips and clues as to when and where the deer are going, and the paths they are taking to get there.

Trail cameras are a very helpful tool to both tell you what type of animals will be there for your early bow hunting season and gives you tips on where to set your stand up.

If you are planning on a spot and stalk deer hunt, then scouting is necessary as you need to know where the biggest bucks are hanging out. That way when the early bow hunting season comes, you will know where to look so you can have multiple stalk opportunities throughout the early season, which may lead to success. One early season bow hunting tip for spot and stalk hunters is to have several shooter bucks located, because it may take several blown stalks before you are successful. The average is about a 1/6 success ratio. Buck are usually more confident during the summer and early bow hunting season and not near as nocturnal. A smart buck that only moves at night during the fall will usually stay out in day light for the first hour or two in the mornings and come out an hour before dark. This will help in your scouting efforts and should give you some early season bow hunting confidence.

Patterning Bucks

Throughout the summer season, deer and elk are mainly focused on feeding. They are not worried about male dominance or breeding does. This means deer will have set paths they are taking to and from their bedding, feeding and watering areas. All three areas are equally important and can be utilized for success while early season bow hunting. A stand can be placed to take advantage of any of these three target areas. While placing the stand directly at water or feeding area can be very effective, one early season bow hunting tip is to not put a stand at a bedding area, but rather

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on a main trail to and from the bedding area. The last thing you want to do is disrupt a buck’s bedding area regardless of what season it is as this could drastically change the buck’s pattern or make him leave the area to another spot he feels more secure. Spot and Stalk Hunting

Another method that can be very effective for early season bow hunting is spot and stalk. Though this is a preferred method typically used for mule deer, it can also be used successfully for whitetail and elk.

During the early bow hunting season, deer will occasionally bed down in the open where they are visible from far away. Even big, mature whitetail will do this, and they happen to be the easiest to spot. Standing crops and CRP (tall grass) is a great place to look as the deer will bed down right in them due to the fact it keeps them nice and cool. An early season bow hunting tip is to glass these areas and look for a rack protruding out of the vegetation. Once found, this creates an ideal situation to put on a spot and stalk if the conditions are right. In this case, wind is your best friend. If you play it right, the wind will carry your scent away from the deer and will also cover up any noise you make. It is best to approach the deer from behind, but sometimes they are facing the wrong direction. The main thing is to keep the wind blowing your scent away from the deer. It is possible to approach the deer head on if this is your only option, but will require a lot of belly crawling.

Once you get to within range of your target buck, it is best to wait until the deer stands up on its own. Then you will be able to take a shot with your bow on a relaxed deer. If the wind begins to swirl and you are scared you may get winded soon, then it may be necessary to coax the deer to his feet. You can do this be making grunt sounds, or if there is a rock around, you can throw it to get the deer focused on a different location other than yours own. Another good scenario for early season bow hunting, especially with mule deer, is when a buck beds down below a cliff in the shade. In this case it is possible to sneak right over the top of the buck without them ever knowing you are there. Again, it is best to be patient and wait for them to stand on their own, but aggressive action may be taken if the situation warrants it.

An early season bow hunting tip for spot and stalk hunting is to wait to stock until the conditions are right. This means usually waiting for the wind to pick up and get steady, or change direction all together. Light winds do not do much to cover up noise and they typically blow in variable directions. As the day warms up, the wind will typically increase. That is why it is best to just watch the deer and wait for conditions to improve Scent Control:

One benefit of early season bow hunting is the mild temperatures. The downfall is it can get hot. Even when temperatures are normal, in the early season it is very easy to sweat, and sweat stinks more to the nose of a deer or elk.

There are ways to minimize your scent even in warm temperatures, which brings us to another early season bow hunting tip. Bow hunting means getting close to your prey undetected. Due to the fact that you cannot stop you body from perspiring, it is extremely beneficial to wear scent prevention clothing. Of course most scent prevention clothing is very warm due to the nature of the clothing. Lucky for us early season bow hunter, there is some scent prevention gear for warm weather. We will talk more about it in the following section about equipment.

If you elect not to purchase early season bow hunting clothing, you at least need to have camo that blends you into the surroundings, which we talk more about next as well. But even more important than camo is the fact that you need to play the wind regardless of the gear you wear. As long as you keep you scent blowing away from the animal, you will be fine. One scent molecule reaches their nose though, and the deer will typically go from lying down to up and running before you can even draw back. Scent has undoubtedly spoiled more stalks and stands than any other factor. Early Season Bow Hunting Equipment

Do to the fact that early season bow hunting tactics are different than the rest of the year, there are a number of items that you will need that you may not have for other bow hunting seasons. Below you will find a list of items you will want to make sure to have in order to better your chances at a succeffull earl season bow hunt. •

Binoculars: Scouting, Stand hunting and Spot and stalk hunting requires


you to find the deer. It is amazing how many more deer you can find with the use of binoculars that you would not see otherwise. They also are essential in the stalk as you need to find the deer before they find you, which means using your binoculars to pick out the tip of a horn or the flick of a tail. Of course binoculars are needed throughout the year and one of the most important pieces of equipment a hunter of any type can use.

Rangefinder: Knowing the exact distance to your target is a huge benefit especially when shooting long distances or bow hunting. There are certain specs that you will want in a rangefinder such as angle compensation. You will be shown where you can get a rangefinder with all you need on it later in this article. Spotting Scope: Both used for spotting deer and then being able to judge them to make sure they are worthy of a stalk. Spotting scopes are also important to find other deer and anything else that can compromise your stalk that is in your intended path. It is very easy to get busted by an animal you did not know existed. Spotting scope are a must have for for all hunting seasons.

Camouflage: With deer vision it is not as important to be the same color as the back ground, but more so to break up your figure. Plus, in typical spot and stalk habitat the foliage can be dry and yellow in grasses, or green in trees and shrubs. Therefore it is important to have a camo pattern that is very versatile. We will discuss the best brands later in the article.

Scent Control Camo: If you will be early season bow hunting, then you will want a camo outfit that offers scent control, but is also light weight and breathable so you do not get hot and sweat, making you scent worse off than if you were to be hunting naked. For this reason, I suggest a scent control that made for warm temperatures. We will talk more about this at the end of the article.

Boots: When stalking deer, it is important to be as quiet as possible. I have taken my boots off and stalked in my sock successfully before, but with cacti and thistle prevalent where I hunt, this is just not doable. Therefore I wear lightweight boots made for stalking to close the final distance to within bow range. They have saved my feet and helped me to be much stealthier.

For all other gear needed to take down big game, be sure to check the menu on the right hand side of this page. The above list of gear is just the basics that will help you to become a successful spot and stalk deer hunter. Only after you spot and stalk deer hunt a few times will you know exactly what works best for you.

The Best Early Season Bow Hunting Tip:

When you are early season bow hunting, in many cases you are out there hunting before most hunters have even bought their tags. That is why the best early season bow hunting tip and tactic I can give you is to just get out there and do it. Aside from the fact that I think this is the best time of year to be out there to score on a big buck or bull, I am usually ready to just get out of town and see some big antlers.

For more information, pictures to with this article, and the specific gear that was mentioned above, follow this link:http://www.BestforHunting.com. I hope you can put into practice the early season bow hunting tips (click to view an article on spot and stalk deer hunting) that I have given you. They have worked well for my brother and I, as early bow hunting season is the time of year we enjoy most and when we have done our best.


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• Cycling arm warmers

• Cycling leg warmers • Cycling gloves

• Cycling headwear/neckwear • Cycling shoe covers

The Rush

Although many cyclists pay the most attention to core cycling apparel like cycling shorts, cycling tights, and cycling jackets, cycling accessories are also essential to ensure that your riding experience is optimal. When selecting cycling accessories, the cyclist can target the following key cycling accessory categories:

• Cycling arm coolers

The Game

By Roy Lazarus

The Escape

From Head to Toe For the Serious Cyclist

Contents

Cycling Accessories

The Roar Ad Index


Cycling Arm Warmers During those chilly days when it is too cold to just wear a sleeveless or short sleeved cycling jersey, but not cold enough to bundle up in multiple layers, cycling arm warmers are a perfect accessory to utilize to maintain warmth in your arms. Below are a few benefits of cycling arm warmers: • Should the weather warm up resulting in the arm warmers feeling too hot, they are light enough that they can be taken off and stored away in the back pockets of your cycling jersey. • Cycling arm warmers act as a protective barrier between forearms and arm rest pads if riding in aero position on aero bars • Some cycling arm warmers provide sun protection in addition to warmth

• Some cycling arm warmers do have reflective piping which is beneficial when riding in the dark • High quality cycling arm warmer fabrics wick moisture quickly

• Some cycling leg and knee warmers do have reflective piping which is beneficial when riding in the dark • High quality cycling leg and knee warmer fabrics wick moisture quickly

• Some cycling leg and knee warmers do provide compression which results in better circulation and enhances recovery by minimizing lactic acid build-up. Leg and knee warmers with compression will also enhance performance by minimizing fatigue (because of better circulation resulting in muscles that are better oxygenated). Cycling Gloves

Cycling gloves for most riders are the most popular cycling accessory. Whether riding in the cold weather or warm weather, taking care of your hands is essential as one must have control of his or her bike at all times and healthy hands will ensure that this happens. Below are different types of gloves that cyclists should consider depending on weather conditions and riding conditions:

Cycling Arm Coolers

• Half finger Cycling Gloves

Contrary to cycling arm warmers, cycling arm coolers are perfect for the warmer days when you want to keep your arms cooler and protect them from the dangerous rays from the sun. Below are benefits of using arm coolers:

• Cycling arm coolers provide excellent moisture management and wicking properties • Cycling arm coolers keep your arms cooler by several degrees resulting in a lower body temperature which results in a lower heart rate • Some cycling arm coolers do provide sun protection from UV rays

• Compression fit of some cycling arm coolers minimize muscle vibrations resulting in arms feeling better after long rides • Some cycling arm coolers utilize antimicrobial treatments to the fabrics used during construction which results in the minimization and possibly elimination of odors Cycling Leg Warmers / Knee Warmers

During those chilly days when it is too cold to just wear cycling shorts, but not cold enough to wear cycling tights, cycling leg warmers are a perfect accessory to utilize to maintain heat in your legs. Below are a few benefits of cycling leg warmers / knee warmers: • Should the weather warm up resulting in the cycling leg or knee warmers feeling too hot, they are light enough that they can be taken off and stowed away in the back pockets of your cycling jersey • Some cycling leg and knee warmers provide sun protection in addition to warmth

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• •

Half finger cycling gloves are typically padded to provide protection and relief to the palms of the hands and minimize or eliminate numbness of the hands which can occur during many miles of riding.

Half finger cycling gloves are often used in warmer weather and also ensure that the rider has a more secure grip on the handlebars (as opposed to a grip that may slip because of sweat and moisture if not wearing Half finger cycling gloves protect a cyclists’ palms and back of hand in the event of a crash

Half finger cycling gloves provide skin cooling effect during excessive sweating and provide moisture management by wicking sweat

• Full Finger Lobster Cycling Gloves • • • • •

Lobster cycling gloves are ergonomically constructed for cold weather use and to feel comfortable on your hands but also provide the right angles for a good grip on your handlebars Most lobster cycling gloves are waterproof and windproof to protect the cyclist against the cold, harsh elements of mother nature

Most lobster cycling gloves provide reflective piping for riding in the dark. Lobster cycling gloves provide extra thickness and padding to protect hands

Lobster cycling gloves provide insulated inner lining intended to withstand temperatures as low as 15 degrees Celsius

• Long Fingered MTB Cycling Gloves


• • •

Long fingered mtb cycling gloves provide padded areas to protect palms of hands Long fingered mtb cycling gloves provide materials in fingers and palm of glove to assist with better grip

Long fingered mtb cycling gloves protect hands during falls or crashes

• Liner Glove for Winter Cycling Gloves •

Ideal as a liner for a winter cycling glove

Some liner gloves have reflectivity for being seen when riding in the dark

Liner glove can be used as your glove for mild conditions when it is not very cold but not too warm

• Long Fingered Winter Road Cycling Gloves • • • • •

Long fingered winter road cycling gloves are ideal as they provide padded areas to protect palms of hands

Provide snug fit underneath helmet

Wicks away moisture and dries quickly

• •

• Cycling shoe cover with high ankle •

Long fingered winter road cycling gloves provide reflective elements for visibility in the dark

• Winter cycling balaclava mask •

Keeps face dry and warm

Provides good wicking properties to keep head dry beneath the helmet

Provides necessary peripheral vision in open area around the eyes

• Cycling skull caps and bandanas •

Provide snug fit underneath helmet

Provide good wicking properties to keep a cyclist’s head cool on warm days and dry on the colder days

Provide protection to scalp from the sun

Provide warmth for ears and head on cold days\

Cycling shoe covers are worn for a multitude of conditions, mostly pertaining to the weather but some pertaining to performance. Whether in need of cycling shoe covers to ride in the rain, sleet, or snow or to achieve optimal aerodynamics, below are different types of cycling shoe covers and some benefits that they provide:

Long fingered winter road cycling gloves protect hands during falls or crashes

Long fingered winter road cycling gloves provide insulated material on inside of glove to keep hands warm

Keep sweat out of cyclist’s eyes

• Cycling shoe covers

On those cold days when a cyclist is determined to challenge mother nature and the elements, cycling headwear and neckwear accessories are essential to keeping your head and neck warm and protecting them from the cold. Below are some different types of cycling headwear and neckwear accessories as well as the benefits that they provide:

Long fingered winter road cycling gloves provide materials in fingers and palm of glove to assist with better grip

Cycling Headwear / Neckwear

• Headbands and ear covers

Typically constructed with zipper to secure shoe cover above the ankle Typically constructed with reflective piping to allow cyclist to be seen when riding in the dark

Construction of zipper to zip up above ankle minimizes chance that water will enter the shoe on rainy days Constructed to provide warmth on colder days

• Cycling toe covers • • •

Ideal for days that are not extremely cold but not too warm. Cycling toe covers typically cover only the toes and the first half of your foot. Cycling toe covers can be taken off easily and stowed away in the cyclist’s back pocket

Cycling toe covers provide wind and water protection

• Lycra cycling shoe covers • •

Typically used for aerodynamic fit for competition and racing

Provide some wind protection and warmth on mild days

For most cyclists, cycling in the great outdoors is not only an activity to look forward to, but it is a lifestyle as well. In order to enjoy this lifestyle, the savvy cyclist will go to any extreme to make sure that Mother Nature does not relegate him or her to riding on the indoor trainer. In rain, sleet, or snow, or even on the hot sunny days, one must heed all conditions and accessorize accordingly in an effort to control his or her cycling destiny. Check out the great selection of cycling accessories on Trivillage.com by visiting the following link: http://www.trivillage. com/bikeaccessories.html


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Contents The Escape

The Game

The Rush

The Roar

Ad Index


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Garage Pointers

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Contents The Escape

The Game

The Rush

The Roar

Ad Index

Winterize Your Vehicle Do It Yourself and Save


By Daniel J Edwards Winterizing your vehicle is a must if you are going to be driving in parts of the country where the outside temperature gets below freezing. Your car is your best friend when it’s cold outside. In the summer you always have the option of running the A/C or putting the windows down, but in the winter, brrrr, I like the heater. Your heater won’t work though if your car is not properly winterized. Many times people will neglect this important measure, until it’s too late, to make sure the “coolant” is clean, adjusted to the proper “anti-freeze” mixture, and the coolant system is at the proper level.

We all used to call the water in your vehicles radiator anti-freeze. Back in the olden days ethylene glycol was mixed with the water so it would not freeze when the weather turned cold. Now we call that mixture “coolant” because not only will this mixture prevent freezing, but will also be an advantage against boil over when the temperatures outside are hot, and will also help prevent corrosion in the cooling system.

When you start your car, the engine builds heat caused from friction of the pistons moving up and down and the combustion of fuel. Your engine block has passage ways that contain the coolant. The coolant absorbs the heat and then is pumped away from the cylinders to the radiator through the “water pump”. I guess now it should be called the coolant pump. The coolant will flow through the top of the radiator work its way to the bottom, and the fan on your engine, or an electric fan will pull air through the radiator and cool the coolant. The water pump then pushes the coolant back into the engine and the whole process starts over again.

Your engine also has a thermostat. The thermostat will close when the engine is cold allowing the block to warm up. Warming up the engine is essential for good power and fuel economy. Most newer engines will run about 210 degrees Fahrenheit for gasoline powered engines, and about 180 degrees Fahrenheit for diesel engines. When the thermostat senses the temperature of the coolant is high enough, the thermostat will open allowing the coolant to be pumped from the engine to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the engine with two hoses, an upper radiator hose and a lower radiator hose. At the same time, the coolant is pumped through the “heater core”. The heater core is the part used to warm up the inside of your vehicle, and is also connected to the engine and radiator with “heater” hoses. Hot coolant flows through the core heating it up and then a fan blows over the core sending warm air into the cabin. Your vehicle’s cooling system also has a radiator cap which needs to be checked. The cap will let pressure build in the cooling system. Pressure will developed from change in coolant temperature. This is good. Pressure in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant. The boiling point of plain water of course is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, but for every pound of pressure the boiling point will raise 3 degrees. Most gasoline powered vehicles will have a 15 pound cap, thus raising the boiling point of the water to about 257 degrees. If you have a gauge in your vehicle, you will probably notice the red line starts in that neighborhood. If the pressure gets too high, the cap will vent. Excessive pressure can

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cause damage to the radiator, heater core or the hoses and could cause a leak to develop.

If your coolant is low, air will replace coolant in the engine block, radiator and heater core. The heater core would never warm up, thus cold air would be sent into the vehicle. Your cooling system may not work properly either because the thermostat would not be able to sense the coolant temperature and not open, and the coolant would not be properly cooled, thus over heating of the engine may occur. Improper coolant mixture can cause a variety of problems. Not only does the coolant keep the cooling system from freezing it also keeps corrosion from developing in the radiator and heater core. When corrosion develops it eats away at the tubing in the radiator and heater core and will cause a leak. When your coolant freezes, the “ice” will expand inside the cooling system and can damage the radiator and even cause your engine block to crack.


Pumping of the coolant will cause some “wear” in the system. This is normal and really cannot be prevented. The coolant will get “dirty” from this wear and could cause problems with the water pump, and could potentially clog the radiator, heater core, or the thermostat. Check your coolant and if it looks dirty, drain it out and replace it with new coolant.

Checking the cooling system on your vehicle is easy. Vehicles since the 1970’s all have what I will call an “overflow jug”. This jug is usually located on the fender well in the engine compartment, and is white plastic, semi transparent. On the jug will be a couple of lines indicating how full it needs to be. One will read “Full Cold” the other which is higher up on the jug will read “Full Hot”. You can “look through” the jug and see the coolant level, and can check it whether the engine is cold or hot. On top of the jug is a plastic cap you can take off to add coolant. You can do this with the engine hot or cold because there is no pressure in the jug. Slight adjustments to the level in the jug may be needed because of simple evaporation.

While you have the jug cap off, BEFORE you add any coolant, you can check the mixture. All you have to do is stick the tube in the coolant, squeeze the bulb at the top, release and let the coolant fill the tube, and then count how many disks float. Read the label on the side of the tester and that will indicate how low the outside temperature can be before your coolant will freeze. You can pick up a good antifreeze tester for about $20.00 at just about any parts supply store.

If your mixture checks good, the level is OK, and the coolant is not dirty (stuff floating around in the mixture) then you are done. If your mixture checks good, but the level is low, just add enough coolant to bring the level up to the “full cold” mark on the jug. If the jug is EMPTY, you will need to see how much is in the radiator. An empty jug usually indicates a leak. If the mixture doesn’t check good or is dirty, you should drain out the old coolant and fill the cooling system with new coolant. A dirty cooling system may also require a “flush”. If you need more information, you may want to read the related article listed below. To find out what is the correct coolant for your vehicle, there should be a label pasted in the engine compartment, providing the information you need, or look in your vehicles owner’s manual. Now, though, you can purchase coolant that is made for every vehicle and coolant type that will mix in with the coolant you already have in your vehicle. You can use which ever coolant you prefer. Read the labels!!.

You should not have to take the radiator cap off to add coolant unless it is extremely low or unless you are replacing the coolant. The only reason it would be low is if you have a leak, or another problem with the engine using it, which means you have already neglected the cooling system to the point that you need a mechanic. NEVER and I mean NEVER, under any circumstance, try to take the radiator cap off when the engine is HOT. Doing so will release pressure of the cooling system and will result in HOT, SCALDING coolant to spew everywhere, including onto YOU, and will cause SEVERE burns. You MUST let your engine cool off before working on the cooling system. To winterize your vehicle you must check to see if the coolant is clean and at the proper level, check the coolant mixture, and check your belts and hoses.

If you want more information on automobile maintenance, go to Cyber City]. Enter the site and go to the “Automobiles” category. You will find everything you need to winterize your vehicle along with tips to help you get the job done right. Dan Edwards a professional mechanic and is the owner of Cyber City Plaza. Cyber City Plaza is a place on the internet where you can go to find a variety of products and services. We have pre-screened all of our merchants to make sure the public receives a high quality product. To view other articles about servicing your vehicle and to find other products you need to take of your vehicle, visit the Articles category at Cyber City Plaza. http://www.cybercityplaza.com


The JV Signature Edition Oztent To commemorate our 20-year anniversary we’ve released the Oztent JV Signature Edition tent. It has been 20 years since the first Oztent was tested against the Australian outdoors and today we can proudly boast that if a camping ground is in Australia, an Oztent has been there. To celebrate this great adventure and the original designer of the Oztent we created the JV Signature Edition Oztent. A limited edition tent with a specific marked number on each one, the JV is packed with many of new features and designs. The New Features

Innovation is the hallmark of all Oztent products and the JV is no exception. In fact it’s fully loaded with many of impressive new features such as: • •

Upgraded materials and Signature Styling of trim, colours, and fittings. Individually numbered limited edition Badging. Complete pack up in 2 carry bags, one to hold the tent for when you need that quick overnight stop and the other to hold all the accessories for the complete set up. Extended sleeping compartment.

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• • • • • • • •

Redesigned extended front awning. New Side Panel design.New Front Panel design. New Zip in awning floor sealing the awning section to create another room. Extended Signature Warranty. Signature Back up service (Registration required). Main tent easily accommodates a queen size mattress and extra room for storage. Complete with a new larger awning design. Perfect set up for the minimalist.

With the addition of the Accessories included, this tent will comfortably provide all your requirements for the extended stay. The Classic Features

To stay true to the things that made everyone love and support this product to where it is today, we’ve included all the standard Oztent features such as: • •

Pack size 1.6m fits in any car (or can still stow neatly on the Roof.) 100% Waterproof Material Guaranteed 30 second setup and pack down (tent only).

• • •

Highest quality materials and manufacturing Easy storage carry bag system. Great ventilation. Fits additional standard Oztent accessories

Specifications • • •

Erected size: 14.4'(length) x 7.8' (front) x 7'(rear) x 7.2'(height) Pack size: 5.2' x 7" x 17.7" Weight: 50.2lbs

JV Accessories • Pack size: 4.7ft x 8.8" x 8.8" • Weight: 36.8lbs

The Classic Optional Accessories Just in case you still need more to create that ultimate camp site, we’ve made sure the JV works with your favourite optional accessories like: • • •

The Tag-a-long Tent (RV-3/4) The Awning connector The Caravan connector More info at www.oztents.us


NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT


Contents The Escape The Game

Pg.

Crew Bed

1

Dee Zee

IFC

www.deezee.com

Hallmark Cutlery

19

www.hallmarkcutlery.com

Kahr Firearms

BC

www.kahr.com

Knife Rights

15

www.kniferights.org

Larson Electronics

27

www.larsonelectronics.com

Reconyx

29

www.reconyx.com

Safety Seal

IBC

www.safetyseal.com

Tread Lightly

11

www.treadlightly.org

Truck Air Bedz

36

www.truckairbedz.com

Ad Index

The Roar

The Rush

Company

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Website www.crewbed.com



®

2014 New Models from Kahr and Magnum Research, Inc. ®

KAHR VALUE SERIES

NEW!!

CT45

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4543 Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 4.04” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.25” Slide Width: 1.01” Length O/A: 6.57” Weight: 23.7 oz

NEW!!

CT40

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4043 Caliber: .40 S&W Barrel: 4.0” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.13” Slide Width: .94” Length O/A: 6.5” Weight: 21.8 oz

NEW!!

DE1911U Model: DE1911U Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 3.0” Capacity: 6+1

MSRP: $946.00

Height: 5.0” Slide Width: 1.28” Length O/A: 6.85” Weight: 25.8 oz

www.kahr.com | www.tommygun.com | www.auto-ordnance.com | www.magnumresearch.com


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