Gone Outdoors November 2014

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November 2014

The Thrill of

Outdoor Cooking

How To Spot & Stalk Deer Hunt




Magazine

Vol. 1- Issue 6

GROUP PUBLISHER

Brandon Greenhill 205-733-4343 brandon@goneoutdoorsmag.com

Annie McGilvray

EDITOR

annie@goneoutdoorsmag.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jacklyn Greenhill jacklyn@goneoutdoorsmag.com

WEB DIRECTOR

Danny Thompson danny@goneoutdoorsmag.com

ADMINISTRATIVE DIRECTOR

Steven Hobson steven@goneoutdoorsmag.com

CEO

PRESIDENT

Christy Hobson

Glen Hobson

Executive and Advertising Offices 951 1st Ave. W. Alabaster, AL 35007 phone: 205-441-5591 fax: 205-624-3354 www.goneoutdoorsmag.com glen@goneoutdoorsmag.com

Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is published twelve times a year on a monthly basis by H&F Media Group, Inc., 951 1st Ave. W. Alabaster, AL 35007 USA. Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is distributed free to qualified subscribers. Non-qualified subscription rates are $57.00 per year in the U.S. and Canada and $84.00 per year for foreign subscribers (surface mail). U.S. Postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama and additional mailing offices. Gone Outdoors Magazine™ is distributed to to qualified owners and managers in the industrial industry. Publisher is not liable for all content (including editorial and illustrations provided by advertisers) of advertisements published and does not accept responsibility for any claims made against the publisher. It is the advertiser’s or agency’s responsibility to obtain appropriate releases on any item or individuals pictured in an advertisement. Reproduction of this magazine in whole or in part is prohibited without prior written permission from the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to H&F Media Group, Inc., P.O. Box 1568 Pelham, Al 35124 PRINTED IN THE USA

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The Escape

The Gam

P6

P16 Spot & Stalk D Hunting

Camping Prep 101 for Beginners- A Starter Guide

P12 The Thrill of Outdoor Cooking

P22 Duck Hunting Safety


Deer Boat

The Rush

The Roar

The Usual

P24 Cold Weather Kayak Wear

P28 Off Road Truck Driving Tips

P4

The Editors Post

P32 2014 Wish List P36 Ad Index

Contents

me

The Escape The Game The Rush The Roar Ad Index


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The Editor’s Post: There is so much going on during the month of November. Here at Gone Outdoors Magazine, we have combined several articles together that will help in planning your November activities. For you early Christmas shoppers, we have compiled a list of great items that any outdoor enthusiast will enjoy. Whether you have a good chunk of change that you are willing to spend or are trying to save this Christmas, there is something for everyone. If you plan on camping this month, we have an extensive guide you can follow to build the perfect camping trip (complete with ideal recipes for your family). Duck and deer hunting are underway this month and there are several tips and ideas to make this hunting season the most beneficial you have had to date. If you want some off-roading driving techniques to kick off this crisp season, you will find that here. Kayaking is becoming an increasingly popular activity for people of any age. With the colder weather setting in, it is important to know what to wear to keep yourself warm and healthy. With several clothing items to choose from, we have an article listing what will be the best option for you. Enjoy this fun-filled issue of Gone Outdoors Magazine and remember to get outside and relish in the weather that this month brings. -Annie McGilvray, Editor


Camping Preparations101 for Beginners - A Starter Guide By Lance Szela Are you wanting to try your hand at hiking and camping? Does the sound of the great outdoors, the smell of fresh air, the smell and sound of a campfire under the stars sound appealing to you? Will this be your first camping trip? Well then maybe this article can be of some useful information. First of all, one of the most important things to do before planning your camping or hiking trip is to let someone know at home or at work details of where you plan to camp or hike, how long you will be gone and any other details about your trip that you can leave that will be helpful in the event of an emergency or you fail to return when you said you would. So now plan your trip. Where will you go? How do you learn about the area you plan to hike and camp into? Where can I get a map? Make sure you get a map for the area you plan to hike or camp in. Most U.S. Forestry Centers carry free maps of wilderness areas. You can also find maps online and at most outdoor stores. You will also want to check the weather of your camping location and plan accordingly.

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Contents

The Escape The Game

The Rush

The Roar

Ad Index


So what will I need? What kind of equipment will I need?

Camping requires equipment, and the basic equipment is the same for seasoned experts or those just starting out. While there is plenty of high-quality camping equipment to make your stay outdoors a lot more comfortable, most of these items aren’t necessary, especially for beginners. Choose good quality equipment, but don’t blow your budget buying the most expensive gear. Remember that costly doesn’t always mean top quality. Here is some basic gear you’ll need for your trip:

Tents: Decide how many people will be sleeping in one tent. You may want to have one tent for adults and one for children if you will be camping with the whole family. For a more comfortable arrangement, purchase a tent that will hold two more people than the number you expect to have sleeping inside. Sleeping bags: Sleeping bags are graded for temperature and come in different shapes and sizes. Choose sleeping bags that

are appropriate for the season and that have a comfortable size.

Cooking and meal equipment: A small, portable propane stove is very handy and makes mealtime as easy as if you were cooking in your own kitchen. You can also purchase a barbecue or find a stove that has both burners and grill. Choose washable dishes and utensils to be environmentally conscious. Don’t forget two plastic bins for washing up! Coolers and food storage: Choose coolers big enough to allow for blocks of ice. It’s a good idea to have two separate coolers in different sizes as well, one for frozen foods and one for refrigerated foods. Select coolers with a snap-lock lid and handles. Purchase plastic bins to hold food that doesn’t require refrigeration. Luggage: The best luggage for camping is a cloth bag like as a hockey bag. Stiff-sided luggage doesn’t hold as much clothing and takes up space.

Extras: Buy two tarps - one to use as a ground sheet underneath your tent and one to shelter the tent in the case of rain. Bring some rope for a makeshift clothesline. A nighttime lantern is always handy, especially for trips to the bathroom. You’ll also need a basic survival kit, a cell phone, and a flashlight in case of emergencies. If you’re going on a trip that lasts more than two nights and three days, bring biodegradable soap and shampoo.

When considering extra items to bring, try to think of functional items that fit your lifestyle such as sunscreen, bug spray, a pair of extra sandals and a doormat for entry to your tent. Browse the aisles of the sporting good’s section to determine what other items would be good to bring along.

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Don’t get caught up with gadgets and unnecessary items. They’ll just take up space and probably won’t be used more than once, if at all. Clothing and Packing

Determine how many days you are going camping, determine how many sets of clothes you will need for that period and then cut that number in half. Pack only the necessities, minimal gear is key to a great camping trip experience. Hauling, packing, storing and trying to fit everything in the car before you leave for your trip and then coming home and unloading it is no fun at all. When you pack, fold each piece of clothing - and then roll it up. Rolled clothing takes up less space than stacked, folded clothing. Food

Camping involves plenty of planning, and that goes for food planning too. Prepare your menu ahead of time, and have a menu for each meal that includes every item you’ll need. The more detail you have on your menu, the better prepared you’ll be to shop for exactly what you require, no more and no less.

Choose supper meals that you can prepare ahead of time and freeze, and freeze as much as you can in plastic bags to save space. The advantage of freezing food is that you will have “ice” ready for your cooler and not have to buy as many blocks of ice, and the food can safely defrost in the cooler. If it’s frozen tight and you’re planning on eating it that night, transfer the food from your frozen food cooler to the fresh produce cooler. Alternatively, thaw it out by placing the plastic bag in a bucket of cold water. It’s a good idea to prepare food you can freeze a couple of weeks ahead of time and the rest of the food the day before you leave. Remember, the more you can prepare at home, the less time you’ll have to put into cooking while you camp. There are tons of other camping tips for beginners, but most camping trips involve common sense, creativity and keeping calm when things get stressful. Camping is experience you have to try at least once. If all goes well, you will probably want do to it year after year! A camping trip can be a fun and educational vacation for the whole family. However, for that to be a reality, it’s essential for every family member to be aware of some general and useful rules to follow. Camping tips can keep you from getting frustrated and will make the experience more fun for everyone, especially if you have smaller children. Here are some camping tips you need to consider before you leave:


1. Choose your tent wisely

When choosing a tent the most important things to keep in mind are size, weight and weather rating. 2. Consider pitch position.

When you pitch a tent, one of the best tips to remember is to choose the location very wisely. If you can, try not to sleep on a slope. Think about where the sun comes up and goes down. Think about some shelter in the day, it’s often useful to have trees on one side of you to provide some natural protection from the heat, or any foraging animals that may decide your tent looks interesting enough to explore. If you plan to have an open fire, be sure that the flames won’t reach any overhanging canopy of branches that could trigger a fire. Take note and follow any posted warning signs and look for animal tracks on the ground. 3. Rent the instructions!

An obvious but often overlooked camping tip is to read the instructions to learn how to put your tent up before you even go off on your camping trip. If you have a new tent, which you haven’t used yet, and are unfamiliar with how to put it up, it’s a good idea to pitch the tent in your back yard for practice. When you do this see if each pole is marked and if not, take some masking tape and label each piece in a manner that it is foolproof. Mark pole 1 a-b, pole 2 b-c, pole 3 c-d and so on. Also if you return from your trip and your tent is wet, it’s a good idea to set it up in the back yard and let it dry out before storing for your next trip. 5. Deal with your food needs appropriately.

You may not know the area you will be camping in very well and therefore not know what shops, if any, are in the local vicinity. If this is the case, try to take some basic food items with you, so that if you are unable to obtain any extra food, no one will go hungry. If you are planning on cooking all your own meals, make sure the gas cylinders are full, and you have packed everything you need to make meals from scratch. Don’t forget the matches and remember to keep them dry! When you leave your campsite, make sure that all food is out of reach of wildlife. They will rip open boxes and climb trees to reach food if they really want it! It’s a good idea to carry your food in a plastic container so that it will be kept safe, especially if you’ll be camping in areas where there are larger animals, like bears. Keeping the food out of site (and smell) will prevent these dangerous creatures from being lured to your campsite. If you are camping in a location where there are bears it is imperative to use bear boxes. Bears can rip a car apart looking for food and can easily open a cooler

and eat its contents if left out overnight. 6. Stay organized.

Be neat, tidy and organized inside of your tent and outside on the campgrounds. Although too much of a routine can be bothersome, having a few general rules is one of those camping tips which proves invaluable in the long term. Simple things such as not allowing dirty shoes inside the tent will not only make the camping trip a cleaner and more enjoyable experience, but also protect the tent’s material making it last longer than it otherwise might. Assign everything a place inside the tent. Also have specific places where things that are often needed can be found so that you aren’t fumbling in the dark and waking others looking for a flashlight or spending hours hunting for the matches. 7. Leave no trace.

Once your camping trip is at an end, make sure you tidy up after yourself, leaving no trace you were even there. If using a private or public campsite, this is essential, since people arriving will be using the same spot after you’ve left. 8. Prepare for next time.

You should be preparing for your next camping trip from the moment you end the current one. This means packing away all your equipment, including the tent in a way that makes it easy and simple to start the next camping trip. Make sure the tent goes away dry (if it’s raining as you pack up, air the tent out once you get home) and clean so that it’s suitable to use without any fuss in future. As you pack away, make a note of any equipment you may need to buy, such as new pegs or a replacement gas bottle. Also make a note as to items that need to be repaired. Camping Code of Ethics

While traveling to your favorite camping spot, stay on designated roads and trails. It is a good idea to follow best practices for negotiating terrain for your type of travel. Don’t disturb the natural habitat by creating new routes or expanding on an existing trail. When you come to a stream, only cross at fords where the road or trail crosses the stream. When you come to a posted sign, comply with all the signs and barriers, they are there for a reason. It is always a good idea to go camping with two or three campers. Traveling solo can leave you vulnerable just in case you have an accident or breakdown. Always leave details with someone at home before leaving as to; where you are planning to go camping, how long you plan to be gone and any other details that could be helpful in the event of an emergency or if you do not return when you planned. Respect the rights of others including private property owners and all recreational


trail users, campers and others to allow them to enjoy their recreational activities undisturbed. Be considerate of others on the road, trail, or campground.

Keep noise to a minimum especially in the early morning and evening hours. Be considerate of other camper’s privacy, keep your distance and avoid traveling through their campsites. Camping supplies in natural colors blend with natural surroundings and are less intrusive to other camper’s experiences. Leave gates as you find them.

If crossing private property, be sure to ask permission from the landowner. When driving yield to horses, hikers and bikers. Educate yourself by obtaining travel maps and regulations from public agencies, planning for your trip, taking recreation skills classes and knowing how to use and operate your equipment safely.

Obtain a map of your destination and determine which areas are open to your type of travel. Make a realistic plan and stick to it. Always tell someone of your travel plans. Contact the land manager for area restrictions, closures and permit requirements. Check the weather forecast for your destination. Plan clothing, equipment and supplies accordingly. Carry a compass or a Global Positioning System (GPS) unit and know how to use them. Prepare for the unexpected by packing emergency items. Avoid sensitive areas such as meadows, lake shores, wetlands and streams, unless on designated routes. This protects wildlife habitat and sensitive soils from damage. Other sensitive habitats to avoid unless on designated routes include cryptobiotic soils of the desert, tundra and seasonal nesting or breeding areas. Avoid disturbing historical, archaeological and paleontological sites. Avoid “spooking” livestock

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and wildlife you encounter and keep your distance. Motorized and mechanized vehicles are not allowed in areas designated Wilderness. Carry a trash bag and pick up litter left by others.

Repackage snacks and food in baggies. This reduces weight and amount of trash to carry out. Whenever possible, use existing campsites. Camp on durable surfaces and place tents on a non-vegetated area. Do not dig trenches around tents. Camp at least 200 feet from water, trails and other campsites. For cooking, use a camp stove. They are always preferable to a campfire in terms of impact on the land. Observe all fire restrictions. If you must build a fire use existing fire rings, build a mound fire or use a fire pan. For campfires, use only fallen timber. Gather firewood well away from your camp. Do not cut standing trees. Let your fire burn down to a fine ash. Ensure your fire is completely extinguished. Do not wash in streams and lakes. Detergents, toothpaste and soap harm fish and other aquatic life. Wash 200 feet away from streams and lakes. Scatter gray water so it filters through the soil. In areas without toilets, use a portable latrine if possible and pack out your waste, otherwise it’s necessary to bury your waste. Human waste should be disposed of in a shallow hole (6”-8” deep) at least 200 feet from water sources, campsites or trails. Cover and disguise the hole with natural materials. It is recommended to pack out your toilet paper. High use areas may have other restrictions so check with a land manager. Hopefully this was useful camping information. Enjoy the great outdoors and please leave it the great outdoors when you pack up and go home. You can read more of my Ezine articles on camping and also visit my “Your Summer Ideas” site below. [http://www.summerfunandtravel.com]



The Thrill of

Outdoor Cooking An Amazing Experience! By Abhishek Agarwal Outdoor cooking is, without a shadow of doubt, the most delightful way of preparing dishes. Meals that are deliciously cooked and wonderfully served outdoors are a treat to remember. Cooking nutritious, low calorie, thrifty and appetizing meals is always very popular outdoors.

When you go hiking or camping, you will require plenty of energy and hence great, healthy meals are just right for you. Cooking outdoors does not simply mean making campfire meals. It also encompasses cooking meals on a hiking trail, by the lakeside or at the local park. It is a complete activity and has its own set of procedures and equipment, which are distinctly different from those used indoors. Most state parks are equipped with picnic ta-

bles and fire grates intended solely for grilling outdoors. Whether preparing complete meals or roasting, outdoor cooking makes

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revel in.

techniques and acquiring a couple of new skills. A bit of inspiration is all it takes to dish up fabulous meals with a rich aroma. Some essential guidelines are needed to ad-

here to prior to contemplating an outdoor cooking affair. Ensure that the utensils are fitted with extendable grips for safety reasons. These elongated grips facilitate ease

of cooking and ensure you stand at a safe distance from the fire. Take with you equipment like a frying pan (nonstick), utensils like forks and tongs, plastic silverware, garbage bags and other cooking essentials.

through the year. Appliances like smokers are particu-

expertise and brings in loads of fun.

With a plethora of cooking techniques in vogue, one can

prepare a diverse range of recipes. The techniques involve using foil, cooking on the grill, cooking directly on coal or employing reflector ovens. Meats, vegetables, main cours-

http://www.Cooking-Guru.com

Ad Index

Abhishek is a cooking enthusiast! Visit his website http:// www.Cooking-Guru.com and download his FREE Cooking Report “Master Chef Secrets” and learn some amazing Cooking tips and tricks for FREE! Learn how to create the perfect meal on a shoe-string budget. And yes, you get to keep all the accolades! But hurry, only limited Free copies available!

The Roar

es, desserts, and breads are a few of the dishes, which can be made for outdoor cooking affairs, without stressing you out. Most people enjoy relaxing with their families and delighting in the rich aroma of smoked cuisine.

The Rush

larly built to enable the cooking of food at relatively low temperatures over far longer times. This is a nice way of doing away with seasonal hindrances. Cooking outdoors is a marvelous leisure pursuit, involves some level of

The Game

In the chilly wintry months, most people do not opt for outdoor cooking and miss out on some hot, delicious food. Outdoor cooking need not be confined to grilling only in the summer season. There are a wide variety of outdoor cooking appliances that can be availed of all

The Escape

Outdoor cooking entails the application of the latest

Contents

for a truly remarkable experience the entire family can


r nd fo u o f e : ipes w ecipes.co m c e r r ew s t a f at www.all u j e r Here a or co oking o utdo

Campfire Skillet Breakfast (8 servings) ½ lb. sliced bacon

6 eggs, beaten

4 c. potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 c. shredded Cheddar cheese

½ onion, chopped (optional)

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1.

Cook bacon to desired doneness in a cast iron skillet over the slow burning coals of a campfire. Remove bacon from the skillet and set aside. Stir the potatoes and onion into the hot bacon fat. Cover, and cook until the potatoes are soft, about 10 to 12 minutes.

2.

Crumble the bacon into the potatoes. Stir in the eggs, cover, and cook until set through, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the cheese, and allow to melt before serving.


Contents

By: Natural Chef Michelle

Campfire Foil Packs (makes 4 packets)

2 onions, diced 1 (8 oz) package sliced fresh mushrooms 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced into strips

4 cloves garlic, sliced 4 small potatoes, cubed ¼ c. olive oil 1 lemon, juiced

1.

In a large bowl, or a large zip-top bag, combine the chicken, onion, mushrooms, yellow pepper, red pepper, garlic, and potatoes. Pour in the olive oil and lemon juice, then mix well.

2.

Evenly divide the mixture between 4 large sheets of aluminum foil. Top each with another sheet of foil, and roll up the edges tightly. Wrap each packet again, securely in another sheet of foil to double wrap.

3.

Cook in the hot coals of a campfire until the chicken is opaque and the potatoes are tender, around 40 minutes.

2 tsp margarine

1 ½ tbsp of peanut butter

2 slices of white bread

2 tbsp of semisweet chocolate chips

1.

Spread 1 teaspoon of margarine onto one side of each slice of bread. Put the margarine sides together. This is to keep from getting margarine on your hands when spreading peanut butter. Spread peanut butter over one slice of bread, and sprinkle chocolate chips onto the peanut butter. Remove the other slice of bread from the back of the peanut butter slice, and place margarine side out over the peanut butter and chocolate chips.

2.

Place a skillet over medium heat. Fry sandwich until golden brown on each side, 2 to 3 minutes. Cool slightly before cutting in half.

The Roar

By: Jill W

The Rush

Peanut Butter Cup Grilled Sandwich (makes one sandwich)

The Game

By: Jesi A.

1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into strips

The Escape

1 lb. of skinless, boneless chicken breast meat – cubed.

Ad Index


Spot and Stalk

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Spot and stalk deer hunting demands a lot of skill out of a hunter, as well as the right habitat and the right gear. There are many different tricks and tactics that deer hunters can use to give them more of an advantage, and here we will talk about them.

The Rush

Of all the many methods one can take to shoot a deer, none are as exciting and fun the whole way through as is the method of spot and stalk deer hunting. Though it may not be quite as relaxing as sitting in a tree stand or blind, it’s definitely more of a thrill from the beginning to the point of shooting.

The Game

By Chris N Jackson

The Escape

How to Master the Biggest Thrill of Hunting

Contents

Deer Hunting:

What is Spot and Stalk Deer Hunting?

How close do you need to get? A good rule of thumb for most people would be 300 yards for rifle hunters and 40 yards for archery hunters. Of course this will be 100% up to the individual hunter and whatever he or she feels comfortable with. With a lot of practice, especially for archery hunt-

Ad Index

ing, these ranges can be increased.

The Roar

Spot and stalk deer hunting is a method by which a hunter first attempts to spot a deer and then stalks it within shooting range. Shooting range can mean a lot of things to different people. You must concentrate on sneaking (stalking) into a position that you can ethically make a good, clean kill.


Habitat No matter where you are, spot and stalk deer hunting can be a great method for taking a deer. That being said, there are some areas that

are much better suited for the method of spot and stalk deer hunting than others.

The more open and the less cover, the better spot and stalk hunting will be. Spot and stalk deer hunting requires looking over a lot of country to find the deer you are looking for. If you are after a ma-

ture buck, then you might have to put in a lot of time depending on

the area. A lot of good spot and stalk deer hunting areas have a low

average buck age as people shoot too many immature bucks when they are young and very dumb without a place to hide or the smarts to run away.

Most of the better spot and stalk deer hunting areas lie in the west half of North America, as it tends to be a bit more arid without as many trees, except in the mountainous areas. Even in the mountains, some great spot and stalk areas can be found as you can look across canyons and spot deer or you can go above tree lines for some alpine spot and stalk deer hunting, which happens to be some of the best area to get a big mule deer buck. Spotting Deer

Once you are in an area that you think should be good for spot and stalk hunting, the first task is to find deer. The best thing to do if you have time before the season starts is to do some preseason scouting. It is very helpful to know what size of deer to set your standards on as well an idea of where to find them. Opening day can get pretty cra-

zy, as there is typically other hunters that have done some scouting and will be looking for specific deer, so you will want to be in the best place possible as soon as legal shooting time arrives. Keep Your Distance

The key to spot and stalk deer hunting is to see the deer before they see you. For this reason, it is best to find deer from a long ways off. Once you find them, then you can devise a plan on getting within range. Once the deer are alerted to your presence, things will get much harder as the deer will be on guard making it tough to close the distance without being seen. Spotting Moving Deer

Early in the mornings is the best time to find deer moving around. Morning time usually finds the deer the furthest away from their bedding areas and focused on eating. For this reason you will want to focus on feeding areas first thing, and then work your way to checking their in between areas as they browse about on their way to the bedding areas. If you are after older, mature bucks, they are usually

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the first to head for wherever they feel the safest and bed down for

the day. Many are nocturnal by the time deer season starts, and you will have to find them in their beds. This can be tough as a deer can blend in to their surroundings very easily.

If you have not found a deer that meets your minimum requirement, do not be discouraged. Most deer, including bucks, will get up, stretch and nibble on some nearby plants, or just get up to reposition themselves out of the sun. I have found many bucks that I have put stalks on during the heat of the day. Spotting Bedded Deer

It is also possible to spot deer as they are bedded down. This takes

a lot of patience and skill to be able to pick out the small details that you can identify as a deer. First of all, you want to be able to identify areas that deer will likely bed down. Some areas anywhere can be possible bedding locations, but there are certain similarities to the places deer prefer to bed down most.

The most obvious place to look is around trees and shrubs. Deer will hide amongst and on the edges of these areas in an attempt to be in the shade and to hide them from predators, like hunters. Many times a big buck can lay in a brush patch not much bigger than the deer himself, yet be almost totally concealed. The spotting skill comes out when you can pick out the fork of an antler, a rump, a nose, or a moving bush that should not be moving. You have to pick these areas apart with your optics, and even then you might not see what is hiding in there. I have had deer magically appear out of shrubs after I thought I could see all of it. Other areas that deer like to bed down are amongst boulders and under cliff faces where they can find shelter from the sun and avoid cougars and other predators. Anywhere you see shade is a possible bedding area, especially early season when it is hot. Even once the temperatures get colder in the fall, deer will still seek shade as their coats thicken up. Stalking Deer

Putting the final stock on a deer is the most exciting part of spot and stalk deer hunting. The object is getting as close as possible without the deer detecting you. This is the part where rifle spot and stalk and archery spot and stalk deer hunting differ a lot. Of course, many times, a deer will position itself in an area where it can only be seen within range at 50 yards. I have had several situations where I could spot bucks from 800 - 1000 yards away, but could not see them on the final stock until I was within 20 or less yards. Wind:

The best defense a deer has is its ability to smell. One molecule of


human scent will make a bedded down deer turn into a running deer instantly, typically not giving the hunter anytime for a

standing still shot. For this reason, you have to play the wind more than anything else.

When spot and stalking deer, wind can be your worst enemy or your best friend, it is all about how you play it. Wind, especial-

shooting distance of 300 yards or less without the deer notic-

ing you. All situations will be different, so it’s hard to give any

suggestions as to the approach of the stalk; you pretty much just have to determine the best route to keep you concealed until you get to within range.

ly a decent wind can help to cover up the sound of a hunter

With archery spot and stalk hunting, staying out of sight of the deer is the main object, but you have to do it on a much closer

the deer, you can remain undetected to the nose of a smart deer.

these close distances, getting a good, ethical shot is still tough as things have to be just right to let an arrow go. It is not over until

stalking within range of a deer. Also, wind can be used to take

your scent away from a deer. You can get 10 yards away, and as long as there is a decent breeze blowing your scent away from Regardless of the weapon you are using, you will need to use

the wind to your advantage, especially with a bow or other close range weapon in your hand.

Many times while spot and stalk deer hunting, it is necessary to make the final stalk until the wind is right, especially while bow hunting. I have had to watch deer for hours until the wind changed before I could put on a stalk and typically I have been glad I waited. I have also blown plenty of archery stocks because I did not wait for the wind to change and stabilize, but then after the stalk was a bust, the wind picked up and stabilized. Wind Patterns:

Every area has its own wind patterns that occur during a typical day that change with the heating and cooling that takes place. You need to know these wind patterns to best help you determine if you think the wind is going to change to help you with time, or if it is going to change and hurt you. Just as you might have had to wait for the wind to change before the stalk, sometimes you are forced to make a quick move on the deer before the wind changes. Knowing when to go and when to not is a huge part of spot and stalk deer hunting; you have to be patient. Deer Vision:

Deer have great vision. They are extremely good about picking up moving objects, even at long distances. They are also able to see objects that do not fit into the surroundings and are not broke up. The best way to hide yourself is to stay out of sight and camouflage can help out a lot. You will want colors and pat-

terns that fit the area well. Deer usually are very familiar with their surroundings, so anything that is out of place or a different color can easily be detected. We will talk about the best camo for hunting in the section below on gear. If rifle hunting, it is best to stay out of site of the deer until you can come over a rise, around a rock or brush, and be within

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basis in order to be successful. It is tough to get within 40 yards of a mature buck deer no matter how you look at it. Even at you make that clean, kill shot. Numbers:

Successful spot and stalk deer hunting is a lot about playing numbers. To be consistent, especially with a short range weap-

on, you need to be putting on a lot of stalks. With rifle hunting, the chances of getting a good shot at a deer during a stalk is pretty good, typically about one out of two or three. With a rifle it’s more about beating other hunters to within range of a deer if you are after mature bucks. With bow hunting, typical odds of successful archery stocks for an experienced bow hunter is probably 1/6. For inexperienced bow hunters, it may take years before luck and skill combine to equal success. That is why scouting is so important so you will know where to go to put on the most stocks possible in order to be successful on a year to year basis. Of course, it’s possible to seal the deal on the first stalk attempt, but luck might also have it to where you finally get it done on the 10th stock of the hunt, or never at all. Equipment:

There are a number different items that can increase your odds of a successful spot and stalk deer hunt. Gear comes in many different price ranges, but it is important to realize you get what you pay for. The following list is made up of gear that can increase your odds a lot. The best thing you can do is go with the best equipment you can afford. •

Binoculars: Spot and stalk deer hunting requires you to find the deer. It is amazing how many more deer you can find with the use of binoculars that you would not see oth-

erwise. They also are essential in the stalk as you need to find the deer before they find you, which means using your binoculars to pick out the tip of a horn or the flick of a tail.


Rangefinder: Knowing the exact distance to your target is a huge benefit especially when shooting long distances or

bow hunting. There are certain specs that you will want in a rangefinder.

Spotting Scope: Used both for spotting deer and then being able to judge them to make sure they are worthy of a

stalk. Spotting scopes are also important to find other deer

and anything else that can compromise your stalk that is in your intended path. It is very easy to get busted by an animal you did not know existed. Spotting scopes are a must

have for spot and stalk hunting.

Camouflage: With deer vision it’s not as important to be

the same color as the background but more so to break up

your silhouette. Plus, in typical spot and stalk habitat the foliage can be dry and yellow in grasses or green in trees and shrubs. Therefore it’s important to have a camo pattern that is very versatile. Sitka Gear lately introduced the Opti-

fade Pattern to the world of hunting. It enables a person to blend into any habitat (comes in forest and open country colors) and comes in a variety of weights to keep you the right temperature.

Boots: When stalking deer, it’s important to be as quiet as possible. I have taken my boots off and stalked in my socks successfully before, but with cacti and thistle prevalent where I hunt, this is just not doable. Therefore I wear light-

weight boots made for stalking to close the final distance to

within bow range. They have saved my feet and helped me to be much stealthier.

The above list of gear is just the basics that will help you to

become a successful spot and stalk deer hunter. Only after you spot and stalk deer hunt a few times will you know exactly what works best for you.

Try Spot and Stalk Deer Hunting Yourself! Once you try to spot and stalk a mature buck, you will realize the intensity of the situation. There are few other challenges

that rival the toughness of a spot and stalk hunt, especially with a bow. Patience is key as you will need to expect long hours of

glassing with binoculars or a spotting scope up to your eyes and

perhaps waiting hours while uncomfortably sitting 30 yards from a trophy buck waiting for him to stand up. It really is the most fun of any hunting out there, but it takes a lot of practice to get good.

I am confident with tips I have given you here on both spot and stalk hunting, as well as pointing you towards the right gear, you too can become proficient at the most exciting thrill hunting can give you. For more information and to see pictures, videos and the recommended gear that was mentioned above, go to this site http://www.bestforhunting.com Good luck and happy hunting. Just remember, the real sport in hunting is getting close to the animal without being detected.


Duck

Hunting

Boat Safety

By David L. Borges When selecting a boat for duck hunting, safety is the primary consideration. Additionally, it’s the primary concern during the entire hunt. Everything is wrapped around safety, without it you won’t live to hunt another day. I understand it’s difficult to select a boat when you might not have ever had one, and because of that, you are not familiar with the water conditions during the various seasons.

This all applies to purchasing a boat too. But there are some basic safety considerations: 1. High transom 2. High sides

3. Select a motor that has enough power to push you over super choppy (two to three feet or more). A boat that can handle windy water conditions even if all your gear is loaded down, deeks, guns, dogs, guys, etc. As far as motorized duck boats go, I’ll give you the low mark: In my opinion, a 25hp motor would be the smallest you’d go on a 16 to 18 foot boat, and even then you need to make sure you are not weighing the thing down with unneeded gear. My 18 foot Excel boat with a 35hp mudbuddy is the absolute minimum power to weight combination with the length and weight of this heavy duty boat, along with the low transom, low sides. I recommend

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going smaller on the boat, but with higher sides. I’d prefer a slightly smaller boat but with max power, 16 to 14 feet with 35hp is more ideal in my opinion. Even with the weight of guys, dog and gear, you are pushing the boat up so it can plane and ride rough waters better and move faster with more control.

Minimum Safety Standards: READ THE COAST GUARD SAFETY BOOK over and over. Understand the buoys - Red right returning, Green going (to the ocean) don’t assume anything. I was on Petaluma River several weeks back in the fog. I’m very careful in conditions like that but who plans on nearly hitting a huge sailboat parked in the middle of the channel, at night, in the fog, no lights on the boat, who? I do, that’s why I missed it, saving the life of the two boys on the boat and continuing on (to a rather dismal hunt, but I won’t go there).

Always wear safety vests. I always wear it during transport. There are times when I don’t wear it at the hunt location, but its super shallow (like I’m kicking up mud shallow). Normally, every time I’m moving the boat everyone is required to wear a safety jacket. There is nothing sissy about living to hunt the next day! Oh, and if you fall into the water with waders on, you are absolutely done without a safety vest, and even then, you need to get back to the boat quick. Push Pole: It’s simple, get out of the vessel, your chances of getting injured or run over

by the boat that suddenly started drifting towards you in a stiff wind (while you are knee deep stuck in mud) is super high. Stay in the boat because you have a push pole, then your risk is lower.

Never walk in front of the boat or get out of the boat while the prop is engaged (engine in gear). The boat can jump and move quickly, footing is bad, people fall or spin in directions you wouldn’t think are possible, but they can’t control. Do not chop up your hunting partner!

Hang on, don’t just stand there!!! When you are trying to blast out of mud, if you catch good water and your engine is going gang busters, it will put you down on the deck rather suddenly or throw you and your hunting partner out of the boat. Nothing like a prop to remind you of how weak your flesh and bones are compared to high RPM metal. Good lights- one on the front of the boat for navigation and one in your hand for pinpointing objects. Emergency Horn

GPS-ever wanted a GPS and couldn’t find an excuse? Now you have one. Big water, no visibility fog and night time (common in Napa at least) means meandering about and running into things when you can’t figure out where the center of the channel is. Trust me, I’ve been lost with a GPS and with just a small amount of fog because it throws off all of your normal reference points in areas that you are absolutely certain of. It’s that certainty that actually gets you in trouble. Fog totally hoses depth perception if you can see something. This has happened to me many times. Unlike an airplane, I stop moving and study the GPS more carefully then move in controlled segments to the next spot I think I should be at. Then I patiently stop the boat again and take my time studying to make sure I’m centered and headed to the right channel or hunt spot. Even with a GPS if you cannot see at all and it’s pitch black, believe me, your mind will try like crazy to come up with something new. That’s why I stop moving and focus on


Stow flares, keep them away from sources of flame.

Night boating: constantly check ahead of you, scan the area with your light. Boats are out there at night with no lights and moving, or parked DUH. Look for dark

Carry extra spark plugs and the socket and wrench to replace. Small tool kit.

Fire Extinguisher - I’ve used mine once. Nothing is scarier than a fire on the boat when you are in open water. There’s

Excellent battery

I use the Bass Pro Shops XPS Battery Charger that is bolted to the inside gun box. The charger conditions the battery and has kept the battery trustworthy and fresh. I have a deep cycle battery from Bass Pro Shops, it’s too big but it never fails. I also have a trolling motor for off-season fishing, that’s why I went with a big battery. Extra water and a couple of snack bars (it’s going to be a very long night because I didn’t read that tidal chart properly) and that last duck was really worth it. Well, those are the most practical and important safety tips that come to mind right away. DL. Borges - [http://borgesoutdoors.com]

The Game

Stepping out of the boat: If you get stuck in mud and the boat is moving towards you (over you) absolutely do not turn around to face the water. Hang on to edge of the boat for dear life and let it pull you out of the mud. If you flip around and face the water (which can be a temptation as if you are going to swim away) the boat will roll right over you. Avoid all of this by using a good push pole. I get the chills when I think about it because I’ve had it happen to me while I was by myself.

Background Lights: When background lights on the shore (like a row of houses, or distant city lights or farm lights) are glaring and shining, it’s extremely difficult to make out boats on the water because their lights just blend in with the rest of the lights. At night while driving a boat, it is nothing like driving on the road. Depth perception, lights, visibility, everything is hosed up so you need to pay attention. There’s no lines in the river or open water; no one is following a path half the time.

nowhere to go except off the boat if you can’t get it under control and keep the gas tank in the front of the boat and run the gas line to the engine. Or put the battery in the front and the gas in the back! Had my gas tank been by my battery, which caught on fire, it would have immediately exploded. Even the vapors are dangerous. These scenarios are real.

The Escape

Finally, guess what, when it’s that dense with fog you aren’t going to kill birds anyway, so you might as well chill out and make sure you get to the right location (since the fog will eventually clear) and just go easy. There’s no rush.

objects in the water ahead of you. Make others in the boat pay attention. Never assume people have their lights on. Even if they do, the boat ahead of you could be positioned in such a way that the light cannot be seen.

Contents

one thing, my bearings.

The Rush The Roar Ad Index


Cold Weather By Craig Sheppard

Kayaking in cold weather can be very dangerous if you are not wearing the proper protective clothing. If you are caught unprepared, the consequences can be life threatening. In this article we

will help you understand what you need to wear when the weather/water gets cold and why you need to wear it.

As a general rule you need to be wearing specially designed kayak clothing that will protect you when you fall into cold water. You may think that you will never fall out of your kayak, but it can happen. If you find yourself suddenly immersed in cold water you will be glad that you read this article and purchased the proper gear to keep you safe. Water Temperature & Air Temperature

The most common mistake made by paddlers is not fully understanding the environment that they are venturing into. Most paddlers dress for the air temperature and do not consider the temperature of the water around them. Even if the air temperature on a sunny spring day is 90 degrees, the water temperature can be as cold as 45 degrees! As a paddler you need to be aware of both the air and water temperature throughout the seasons. Summer is definitely the safest time to be out kayaking, but the early fall season can be quite comfortable too, and the water may not even be very cold yet either. The reason for this is that larger bodies of

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water maintain homeostasis, which in simple terms means that it retains temperature. After a summer of heating the water is relatively warm, even well into the fall. Conversely in the spring, after a winter of cooling, we may experience the coldest water temperatures of the year. This is why it is so important to dress for immersion and not simply for the air temperature.

Before we discuss what to wear, we’re going to tell a few stories about some unfortunate people who didn’t prepare for their environment. If it seems like we are trying to scare you then we are making our point. We want everybody out on the water to get home safely every time. * Example 1 - About 5 years ago we had a very cold winter. In early April the water temperature was only about 45 degrees. As often happens at this time of year we had a series of 80 degree days. A young couple decided to take out a jet ski in Long Island Sound and enjoy the beautiful weather. They dressed for the air temperature, never giving the frigid waters a thought. They had typical summer attire when they should have been wearing, at the very least, wetsuits. They ended up getting tossed from the jet-ski. Hypothermia set in almost immediately, paralyzing their muscles, and preventing them from swimming back or climbing onto the jet-ski. Both of them died. YOU MUST BE PREPARED TO BE IMMERSED IN THE WATER. Immersion is highly unlikely but you have to be prepared and

dress for it.

* Example 2 - Another near tragedy happened one December when a kayaker went out alone on a fairly nice day and on his return back he found himself in seas that were too big and couldn’t get back. He decided to wait it out on some rocks in the middle of the Bay. As it got dark he was stuck out there and on the verge of freezing. He hadn’t been prepared for the chance that he might have to spend prolonged time out of his kayak and exposed to the elements. He didn’t have extra clothing or a cell phone and only had one flare. Luckily someone on shore saw his lone flare when he fired it and they called for help. I am sure when he started out on his paddle on a nice 50 degree day he didn’t think he would have to deal with the dropping temperatures caused by wind which resulted in a 20 degree wind-chill. YOU CAN NEVER PACK ENOUGH CLOTHES!

* Example 3 - Hypothermia doesn’t only happen when the water or the air are cold. It can happen any time of year and almost anywhere. We got into a situation where we were unprepared for the environment in July in Florida, no less. We were kayak fishing the Gulf Coast Flats and the weather was hot and humid. You had to run the air conditioner in the motel room and vehicles. The heat was brutal. We were out fishing and had come upon the first island on our way to a farther island. A thunderstorm was off in the distance so we decided to stop and fish


There is a formula that is often used which combines the air and water temperatures. It is called the rule of

120. Supposedly if you were to add both values and get a figure over 120 you should be fine. This is nonsense. One can be very safe well below this value and in trouble well over it. It all depends upon what you wear and what you take along with you. The Florida example above (#4) was probably over 160 when we started the day and still easily 140 while our teeth were rattling.

The Roar Ad Index

So what should you wear? There are several choices and combinations of those choices. Fortunately technical clothing has improved in recent years and there are many good quality choices available. Paddlers are no longer limited to some rubber band feeling wetsuit that irritates the skin. We now have new materials, which are lighter, warmer, more flexible and much more wind and waterproof. Gear that provides greater protection, and is comfortable too. No one piece of clothing or system will cover all situations. All have their strengths and weaknesses. By understanding them and utilizing a variety of options you can safely paddle and fish in practically any conditions.

The Rush

* Example 4 - There is a phenomenon in Southern California called the Santa Ana winds; warm inland heating and the exchange between the hot land and the cold ocean create them. These winds can form quickly and can come roaring down canyons towards the coast. They can be very powerful and wind speeds of 50 mph or higher are common. The waters of Southern California are cold considering their latitude. That’s because its currents come from the north and bring the cold water from there. Also the waters, even very close to shore are extremely deep, so the sun has little opportunity to warm them. Wetsuits are normal attire for water sports because of this. I don’t recall the specifics but I believe that 2 people were out kayaking, they had wetsuits on but unfortunately they got caught in a Santa Ana. Its 50 plus mph offshore winds were impossible to paddle against. They even had a cell phone and called for help. The result was that they were blown far from shore. The winds created rough seas and they constantly got soaked. The wetsuits they were wearing were incapable of protecting them from the wind chill. Their bodies couldn’t heat the trapped water layer fast enough to

prevent hypothermia. Before rescue agencies could find them they had succumbed to exposure.

The Game

cold we got in Florida on a July day. Teeth chattering cold! You can’t really judge what will happen on the water in a couple of hour’s time. You have be prepared, no matter what the weather is when you launch.

The Escape

near the first island before proceeding further. It started to rain and then we determined the lightning was getting closer. Here we were on a tropical island approximately 20 minutes from our starting point. We recognized that the storm was going to pass over us so we decided to beach our kayaks on the island and take shelter in the jungle. The storm passed right over us and the lightning was all around. The rain was torrential and we got soaked. Here we were wearing only t-shirts and shorts for the sweltering weather that was the norm. The temperature dropped and it was very windy. We began to shiver. This is the first stage of losing body heat. The storm wasn’t showing any signs of letting up and after close to an hour of shivering we realized that we couldn’t continue to loose body heat. As we thought of things that we could do to provide warmth or insulation, we realized that our PFD’s would do the task. So we put them on and fortunately they provided enough insulation that our shivering stopped. We saw an opening in the storm and made a mad dash back to the mainland. Shortly after getting back the storm intensified and for the next few hours it was severe. If we hadn’t taken advantage of the short weather window and returned to the mainland we would have been in trouble. The adventure could have been an ordeal; we were very fortunate that it became a valuable learning experience instead. We were both amazed at how

Contents

r Kayak Wear


There are many considerations to think about when choosing kayak wear. Two are especially important. They are weather and where you’re going to paddle/fish.

* Weather: Obviously you have to take into consideration the weather. This consists of a few factors: air temperature, the wind status and precipitation or the likely hood of either or both. None of these variables are singular. By this we mean that they are interdependent. You can’t dress for only one. Review the stories above if you have any doubts. You need to dress for the most severe of the factors that you will encounter or bring along appropriate items should they arise. In the spring, for instance, you can have a wide variety of air temperatures, but the constant, which you much recognize, is going to be the water temperature. So this is what you must dress for. The wind can significantly change how you feel. Wind chill is the event where wind passes over living things. It pulls moisture away and has a cooling or chilling effect. Wind chill is a function of temperature that isn’t indicated by a thermometer. It’s dangerous when you’re wet especially when it’s combined with low temperatures. As the Florida example shows it doesn’t have to be very cold to be a concern. * Destination: How close will you be to shore and what is your access to somewhere you can stop to change clothes? Some of our local waters where we fish a lot have many small islands and rock piles. There are many places to go ashore, whether to add or peel off layers and dry off and change if necessary. We also have a lot of shallow water areas that we call flats. Often you can stand, even though you may be miles from shore. If you need to add, or take off a layer or grab a shell, etc. you simply hop out of the kayak and do so. Conversely if the area I’m fishing doesn’t give me this ability, I have to give more thought to the subject to better prepare myself.

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Now that we have considered and discussed these factors, let’s get to the clothing.

Dry suit - This is the big daddy of thermal protection. A dry suit is waterproof, and the better ones are breathable. It’s essentially a body suit to protect you from the elements. It has seals around the neck and wrists and the feet areas sealed like waders. High quality dry suits also have waterproof relief zippers for those moments when nature calls. Example: The NRS Extreme dry suit Paddle Suit - A paddle suit is almost identical to a dry suit with one exception. The neck seal on a paddle suit is made of neoprene and is not 100% waterproof like the rubber neck gasket of a dry suit. Even so when a paddle suit is worn in conjunction with a PFD it will protect you from all but the most extreme conditions. A paddle suit is lightweight, relatively inexpensive (when compared to the value of your life) and will last many seasons when properly cared for. Kokatat makes some excellent paddle suits in recreational and angler models: The Super Nova paddle suit and the Super Nova Angler paddle suit.

Dry Top and Dry Pants - Same idea as the dry suit with the seals around waist, ankles and wrists but can be worn separately or together. You definitely have more of a chance of water getting in with a top and bottom set as opposed to a full dry suit. Dry pants unlike dry/paddle suits do not have sealed feet. This means that you will have to wear some sort of foot wear that will keep your feet both dry and warm. This is easier said than done. Most often dry top/dry pant combos are worn by white water paddlers and sea kayakers, in our opinion they are not the best choices for kayak fishers or recreational paddlers. Waders and Dry tops - Many people

think that if you fall in the water wearing waders, that the waders will fill up with water and pull you to the bottom. This is a misconception. The specific gravity of the water inside the waders is exactly the same as the water around you. In other waters why would the water that you are floating in suddenly get heavy and sink just because it is now inside your waders? A pair of breathable waders combined with a breathable dry top forms a very versatile system that works extremely well for a wide range of conditions. When worn properly, waders will actually trap air and act as additional flotation. The other nice thing about waders is that the kayak fisherman often uses the kayak as transportation to go wade fishing. Waders are designed for use while wading and all other forms of clothing don’t do this job as well while keeping you dry.

Wetsuits - wetsuits work by trapping water between the material of the suit and your body. Your body warms the water making you feel comfortable. This works great when you are submersed in the water such as when surfing or snorkeling but once you climb back onto or into your kayak it will not work so well. As you climb back into your kayak the water that was in the suit keeping you warm is flushed out and you are cold again. Wetsuits are best used in late spring, summer, and early fall. We suggest avoiding them during the coldest water periods. Spray Jackets and Pants - Nobody should be without some spray wear (rain wear) and it’s important to buy spray wear that is breathable or you will heat up and perspire. This moisture won’t be able to escape and at the very least you’ll feel clammy, but it can also chill you. Spray jackets and pants can be used in a variety of ways. They can be used in the summer, when an extra layer is needed. In the Florida adventure told above a good set of spray wear would have prevented our


shivering. We would have remained dry and warm and would have been protected from the wind. We always carry a set along now. Spray tops can also be used on cool summer nights, and can also be worn over a wetsuit to provide wind, and or rain protection. This way the wetsuit protects you, should you go in the water, and the spray gear does the same when you’re out of the water. A hooded jacket can even be used over a dry suit or system to keep the rain off of your head. Many of spray suits pack up quite small and come in their own carrying bag. There really isn’t any excuse not to carry a set in your dry bag just in case.

First Layer Insulation - The only time you won’t need this is when it’s warm out otherwise this is important. Base wear is where you will start any clothing strategy. If your core gets wet and moisture stays there you will be cold no matter what you are wearing on the outside. The best way to wick moisture away from your skin is by wearing modern synthetic fibers. These fibers have a myriad of functions, but most important is that they retain their insulation properties when wet. Fleece, polypropylene, capilene, etc. are great to start with because they wick moisture away. There have been recent advances and one such item is a product called Mysterioso. Mysterioso is so advanced that the US Military uses a version of it for their cold weather operations. It has many terrific features. It works great when wet and is super-fast drying. It has a wind barrier too. Surfers have been using it for years and it can add up to 2MM of warmth to a wetsuit. It can even be worn as a light wetsuit. Some of the synthetic materials like polyester are OK as a first layer but stay away from cotton. Hats, booties and Gloves - Not that you don’t have enough to think about but you will need to keep head, hands and feet warm.

Your head is responsible for 50% of your body’s heat loss. If it’s cold out a hat can be vital to maintaining your core temperature. At the very least bring a wool hat along. Wool, though a natural fiber, still insulates when wet. There are also more modern caps made out of high tech materials that will keep you warm and dry. In warmer weather, a hat should be worn to protect you from sunburn and keep the rain out of your eyes. Your mom was right - wear your hat!

If you will be wearing a dry suit, paddle suit or waders you will want to get a good pair or wading shoes. Make sure they are large enough to comfortably fit over the stocking foot and whatever socks you are wearing underneath. As a general rule choose a boot that is at least one whole size larger than your normal shoe size. Wading boots come in felt sole models for walking on slick rock, lug soles for general terrain and some boots even have cleats for climbing over the most slippery rocks. Buy the best you can afford, you won’t regret it. Neoprene booties of water shoes can be used during the warm months to protect your feet from injury, sunburn and they will also help you from getting cold feet. If you are wearing dry pants or a wetsuit you will also want to wear some sort of booties for protection as well. Note: neoprene booties are not waterproof and will not keep your feet dry. At times you may also need to protect

your hands too. There are essentially 2 styles of gloves used in kayaking/kayak fishing. It’s a very good idea to bring along both types. Fingerless gloves and fingered gloves. Both have their uses and both come in different variations. Some gloves are made to prevent blisters, some to protect you from the sun and others are designed to keep your hands warm. For fishing, exposed fingered gloves are necessary when tying knots or working

with lures. If you are only paddling then you will be better served with a full fingered glove or mittens to keep your hands warm. You may need to switch gloves throughout the day depending on the conditions and what activities you’re engaged in. A good rule is to always carry multiple pairs of gloves for different situations. In conclusion

If we’ve done our job properly you should now have a better knowledge of the cold weather/water clothing available. You still might be wondering what the best system will be for your kayak fishing adventures. Since we all have different needs and live in different climates there is not always a right or wrong answer. See what clothing systems other kayak fisherman are using in your area.

Here in the Northeast (NJ) we mostly use paddle suits and wader dry-top combinations during our cold weather/water periods. We then layer appropriately under our dry wear depending on the current conditions. We also bring along a dry bag with extra layers and items such as gloves, hats, rain gear, toe & hand warmers and emergency blankets. Throughout your kayak fishing adventures you will certainly encounter a variety of weather conditions. Always plan ahead considering all potential possibilities so that you can safely and comfortably fish again another day. Have fun and be safe!

If you would like to learn more about kayak clothing, gear, and accessories please visit: http://www.kayakfishingstuff.com/store/ merchant.mvc


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Contents The Escape

Off-Road Truck Driving Techniques & Safety

derie has been bypassed. The honor-by-association process misses the chance to be taught to the enthusiastic guy who just bought his first real 4x4.

or other obstacle, it could knock a hole in the oil pan, differential, or even knock off the oil filter.

4. Reducing tire pressure will increase traction on gravel and sand. For most 4-wheeling purposes, a tire pressure of 18 to 20psi will be adequate. Highway pressure is another consid-

eration altogether. The tire is marked on the side, i.e., 50psi at 3300 pounds. In essence, that one tire could hold my Defender up. Depending on the weight of the loaded vehicle and the size of tire, a tire pressure of between 28 and 35psi works in most on-highway applications. Never overlook the importance of reading the manufacturer’s label. The air pressure difference between the front and rear is due to the tire and auto manufacturers’ experimentation for over/under steer and load variances.

5. Cross ditches or logs at an angle so that one wheel at a time

Ad Index

1. It’s important always to drive within your ability. There are times when in soft sand, like beaches and washes, speed needs to be moderate and flotation through mud and snow needs to be kept up, hence “within your ability.” Usually taking your time on the trail will allow you to pick a smooth path and allow you time to react to the varieties of terrain you can encounter like moving rocks and logs under the tires. If you have a ground clearance deficiency, going slow helps here, in that, if you do hit a rock with the differential or other rock grabber, it will usually stop the vehicle on impact or you will lightly scrape over it. If you were going too fast and hit a rock

tom while hoping that the seat belt works properly.

The Roar

Responsible 4-wheeling is about finesse. Other features and driving techniques assist in the overall safety of your off-road outing, but finesse is the first and most important portion of your driving repertoire to acquire. Here are some hints to help you out in this area.

3. Driving diagonally = Rollover. Always drive straight down hills or steep terrain. Know your approach and departure angles, the bumper to tire distance. Some trails will require off-camber driving. In situations like this it’s best to go slow, keeping the tires in the tracks. Make every attempt to avoid losing attention and ascending up a rock or stump on the up side of the hill. Trucks will tend to slide sideways before rolling over - the tires will slip sideways a little. Stop if the slide puts you off the edge of the track. If it is clear downhill and a rollover is imminent, immediately turn the vehicle into the slide and drive it down. If that is not an option, and you are going over, turn the vehicle off and hold on to your seat-bot-

The Rush

As truck ownership has increased in America, so has the amount of off-highway recreation. There is no special license required to drive off-road, even though there are many different techniques and practices involved. There does exist an often unspoken etiquette that is practiced by old-school four-wheelers, which developed not just so that everyone can get along on the trail, but, primarily, for safety considerations. With the availability of trail-ready 4x4’s, both in the traditional truck mold and outside of it, the slow and steady progression of four-wheeling initiation through involvement and camara-

2. Avoid surprises by surveying the road ahead before you encounter it. Make sure the trail goes beyond the obstacle, doesn’t become a bottomless quagmire, has no back side to the hill (cliff?) or just plain ends. You can get a good idea where to place your tires and the differentials to have a plan of approach. And follow through to beyond the obstacle.

The Game

By Jeff Jackson


material when spin-

goes over the obstacle; the other three help

ning, thus providing

the one wheel to climb over. Dropping the tire

a good bite on every rotation of the tire. These tires are also

into a ditch or crack

in a rock can put you

very popular for rock

and your truck in a

crawling as the large

vulnerable position.

lugs can provide a way

Sometimes the vehicle pitches and one or

of gripping and pulling the tires up and over

more tires will catch

irregular rocky edges

air. Be very deliberate and careful when ap-

where a smoother

pattern would just

proaching this challenging section of any trail. Logs can bounce

spin. The biggest disadvantage of these patterns is that they run rough and loud on the highway. To reduce this problem; choose a

One of the most crucial aspects to off-roading is understand-

The general purpose all terrain tire generally has an interlocked tread pattern with siping (small cuts) on the tread blocks. The voids in these tires are usually much smaller than those on tires designed for use in the mud. The denser pattern of blocks and smaller voids make these tires quieter on the street. It also increases the surface area of the tread which gives the tire im-

up and catch the undercarriage, so come off these obstacles

slowly and carefully. Turn the vehicle at an angle to facilitate the one tire at a time approach. Be careful not to allow one of the front tires and one of the rear tires to get in the ditch at the same time. ing the absolute importance of tire pressure. Among the most pertinent tire pressure considerations in regards to summer off-roading is utilizing optimum sand tire pressure. Optimum sand tire pressure is a combination of many things, of which truck-owner’s myths are least productive. However, your tires, their construction methods and materials, what your car weighs, how it is loaded and wheel width, all play into the sand-pressure tire formula with predictable results. Why low pressure works, and how to determine your best sand pressure, follows: It’s a simple fact, which some diehard truckers still deny, the bigger the footprint, the softer the stuff you can travel in. Boiled down, it’s nothing more than a fact of nature. For those who say skinny, hard tires are better for snow, mud or whatever, please tell me why they don’t use ten-speed bicycle-type tires on snowmobiles? Sand rail people and mud boggers know big feet work better as well. With that out of the way, let’s take a look at tire pressure and footprints.

The choice of tread pattern, otherwise known as your tire’s footprint, is extremely important to consider during your new tire decision making process, and especially so if you are fitting your

truck for an off-road adventure. Tread pattern should be chosen based on the intended use of your truck. The most popular tread pattern for all around off-road use is a mud terrain pattern. The mud terrain or mud tire pattern is characterized by large lugs on the tire with big voids between these lugs. The large lugs provide plenty of bite in low traction conditions while the big voids allow the tire to clean itself by throwing off mud or other

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tire with irregular or asymmetric spacing of the lugs and voids to reduce harmonic vibration at highway speeds. There are also situations such as light powdery snow or sand where an all-terrain pattern would be better.

proved flotation on surfaces such as light powdery snow or sand. The increased siping can be important in snow were it is the number of edges, even quite small edges, biting into the snow that provides the traction. The downside is that the smaller voids cannot clean themselves as easily of packed mud or slush. If these voids fill up with mud the tire loses much of its bite and traction is lost.

A variety of manufacturers also offer a family of tires sometimes called trail tires or some similar name. These are most often tires designed for use on light trucks or sport utility vehicles which see most of their use on the street. They will generally be quieter, get better gas mileage and last longer than either of the other off-road patterns. The tread patterns are designed to provide significantly improved comfort or performance on the street which can sometimes compromise off-road capability. Fortunately this is the limit to which most of their intended market are likely to take them.

Jeff Jackson is a successful freelance writer and truck enthusiast who enjoys providing valuable tips and advice for online pur-

chasers of Tonneau Covers, Truck Floor Mats, and Truck Caps. When he is not writing he can usually be found in his 4x4 out on the trails of his home state, Florida.



This list encompasses two different items of our magazine’s main categories. One it more budget-friendly spenders & the othe the spender who wants to buy that one spl for someone special. Compiled by Annie McGilvray SPLURGE: The Oru Kayak uses a brilliantly innovative, origami inspired design to transform from a compact box into an elegant, high-performance 12 foot boat. While it was originally conceived as an easily storable kayak for urban apartment dwellers, the applications for a folding boat are practically endless. Paddlers can hike it through backcountry to remote waters, or check it as luggage on a commercial flight— aided by its incredible 26 pound weight as well as compact size. The Oru Kayak is available at www.orukayak.com ($1195 US).

SAVE: LifeStraw Go incorporates awardwinning LifeStraw technology into a durable, refillable water bottle ideal for hikers, runners and campers. It transforms microbiologically contaminated water into safe drinking water that meets US EPA standards for water quality. And, for each LifeStraw product purchased by a consumer, one school child in a developing country receives safe drinking water for an entire school year. For more information visit www.buylifestraw.com ($34.95 US).


in each tem is for er is for lurge gift

SPLURGE: EL 32 Binoculars by Swarovski Optik combine unique SWAROVISION technology with lightweight design, which is perfect for challenging hunting conditions in the mountains and long treks during safari hunting. The legendary EL wrap-around grip makes them comfortable to use with one hand. The 10x magnification provides particularly good detail recognition over a long distance. This product is available at WWW. SWAROVSKIOPTIK.US ($2554 US).

SAVE: The Sportsman’s Hunting and Fishing Activity Meter by AcuRite is a must this Christmas season. Experienced outdoorsmen know that time of day, moon phase and weather conditions affect animal activity. This device monitors time of day, moon phase and weather conditions using an advanced algorithm. The wireless outdoor sensor measure local weather conditions and sends data to an easy-to-read indoor display. The data is then analyzed to predict prime conditions and is marked by the selectable hunting or fishing success meter. www.acurite.com ($44.99 US).


SPLURGE: Snolo Stealth-X Sled is perfect for anyone who is into extreme sports. This sleek alpine sled has a versatile steering system that allows for sitting upright to steer or lean into corners like a GP motorcycle. This item has many different features that allows for a one-of-akind sledding experience. This product is available at www.snolosleds.com ($3200 US).

SAVE: The RockStar Helmet by CAMP is a versatile and affordable helmet that is perfect for large groups and rental programs where helmets are bound to get beat up. The durable injection-molded polyethylene shell has 4 side vents. A nylon inner suspension cradle offers fast and easy slide adjustment and is covered with a fast-drying material for comfort. The RockStar has been upgraded for 2010 with the addition of headlamp attachments. This product is available at www.camp-usa.com ($49.95 US).

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SPLURGE: The 2015, Polaris ACE – White Lightning is the perfect ATV to give this Christmas season. This ATV has a 32 HP Peak Horsepower, an all-new single passenger cab design and exclusively designed ergonomics for your comfort and confidence. This ATV comes with several features that you can customize for you convenience. www.polaris.com ($7499 US).

SAVE: This tire repair kit by Power Tank (KIT8134) is the perfect kit for all car/truck tires, trailer tires and UTV tires. The kit comes with all of the important parts needed to change almost any tire, lightweight alloy tool handles and a durable poly fabric for the roll-up bag. This is the perfect kit to get for every vehicle you have. www.powertank.com ($39.95 US).


Contents The Escape

Company Crew Bed Dee Zee Hallmark Cutlery Kahr Firearms Larson Electronics Safety Seal Truck Air Bedz

Pg. 1 IFC 21 BC 31 IBC 36

Ad Index

The Roar

The Rush

The Game

Thanks for your support!

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GO Mag •

Vol. 1- Issue 6

Website www.crewbed.com www.deezee.com www.hallmarkcutlery.com www.kahr.com www.larsonelectronics.com www.safetyseal.com www.truckairbedz.com



®

2014 New Models from Kahr and Magnum Research, Inc. ®

KAHR VALUE SERIES

NEW!!

CT45

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4543 Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 4.04” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.25” Slide Width: 1.01” Length O/A: 6.57” Weight: 23.7 oz

NEW!!

CT40

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4043 Caliber: .40 S&W Barrel: 4.0” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.13” Slide Width: .94” Length O/A: 6.5” Weight: 21.8 oz

NEW!!

DE1911U Model: DE1911U Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 3.0” Capacity: 6+1

MSRP: $946.00

Height: 5.0” Slide Width: 1.28” Length O/A: 6.85” Weight: 25.8 oz

www.kahr.com | www.tommygun.com | www.auto-ordnance.com | www.magnumresearch.com


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