Gone Outdoors Magazine-January 2015

Magazine Ice Fishing During Your Vacation

The GO MAG FREE SUBSCRIPTION January 2015

Ultimate Guide Cold Weather Camping

Magazine

Vol. 2- Issue 1

GROUP PUBLISHER

Brandon Greenhill 205-733-4343 brandon@goneoutdoorsmag.com

Annie McGilvray

EDITOR

annie@goneoutdoorsmag.com

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Jacklyn Greenhill jacklyn@goneoutdoorsmag.com

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The Escape The Ga P6

The Ultimate GuideCold Weather Camping

P10 Ice Fishing D Your Minnes cation P14 Winter Trou Fishing

The Game The Rush

The Rush

The Roar

The Usual

P18 Winter Cycling

P28 Tips for Moving Snow

P4

P22 Ski Boots- Testing 1, 2, 3

P32 How To Safely Use Snow Chains

P34 New Product Spotlight

The Editors Post

P36 Ad Index

Ad Index

P26 Top 7 Nutritional Tips to Improve Your Skiing Performance

The Roar

ut Fly

The Escape

During sota Va-

Contents

ame

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TheEditor’sPost: Happy New Year! Here at Gone Outdoors Magazine, we are excited to be in the New Year. There is a lot in store for our magazine this year and we are thrilled to continue providing our readers with articles aimed at the beautiful outdoors.

Cold, harsh January makes being unprepared in the outdoors unbearable. In this issue of Gone Outdoors Magazine, we focus on how to enjoy the outdoors without becoming miserably cold and frostbitten. We have several tips for camping in the outdoors while still having an entertaining, satisfying trip. If you have never been ice fishing, we have a few articles that will help you with this adventure. Skiing is in full force this month and we have articles that will take you from beginner to expert. Do you enjoy biking but are not sure how to prepare for the temperature while riding? We have the perfect article for you! If you need help in choosing the right set of snow chains, we can help you out with that as well.

Even though the weather can be intolerable this time of year, being able to enjoy the outdoors should still be on your priority list. We want to make the outdoors accessible to you while remaining complacent as you enjoy doing the things you wish to do.

- Annie McGilvray, Editor

The

Ultimate Guide Cold Weather Camping

By Bryan R

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Contents

The Escape The Game The Rush The Roar Ad Index

If you are reading this article then I assume you are either planning or thinking about cold weather camping. Camping as such is an exciting activity but camping in cold weather is altogether an experience in itself. If planned well, it could be the most memorable trip. No matter if you are a beginner or a seasoned camper, if you are going to be out in cold, you have to plan seriously.

There is an old saying that there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear. The same could be said for cold weather. If you have planned well and taken the right gear you can make it as comfortable as it can get. Here are some cold weather camping tips that I would like to share with you General Tips: •

•

• •

Setup your camp as soon you arrive to your campsite, do not postpone it for later as the sunlight in winter is very precious. It may get dark and cold once you return from hiking, or any other activity you have planned, and it will take you double the time and energy to perform.

Don’t do as much strenuous activities during the day as you would normally do in summer. Energy is very precious in winters and you need some reserve energy to perform daily tasks like setting camp, cooking and cleaning.

Everything takes more time to do in the cold - your body just naturally moves slower. So plan & allow extra time for all your activities.

For camping during the winter you need some extra light during night and mornings as days are short and it will be dark before you know. So come with extra camp lights and batteries, etc.

Tent: •

•

•

8

Select a tent site which is sheltered from the wind as much as possible, you can hang a tarp between two trees to block the wind from hitting your tent directly.

The wind chill factor can often be considerable and can result in temperatures being much lower than reported.

Your tent should be strong enough to withstand high wind and snow. Carry a four season tent with you; these tents generally have stronger poles to handle snow.

If you are suspecting heavy snowfall then make sure to hang a tarp above your tent; this will protect your

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• • •

•

tent from direct snowfall.

You can also put an extra tarp below your tent; this will help you keep warm.

Before you go on the trip make sure your tent doesn’t have any wind leaks in it.

If possible choose a tent that has a mesh netting that hangs just below the inside top of the tent to keep

frost that flakes off the ceiling from constantly falling down on you while you sleep.

Vent your tent as much as possible at night to reduce condensation on the inside of the tent walls. This condensation can result in drops of water falling on your sleeping bag and clothes while you sleep.

Sleeping Bag: •

•

• •

•

The job of your sleeping bag is to trap heat that your body creates. Winter sleeping bags are thicker so they can trap more heat. Select a sleeping bag which is rated 10-15 degrees lower than the temperature you will be camping on.

Use a good sleeping pad. The primary job of sleeping pad is to insulate your sleeping bag from the cold ground and helps to trap the heat between your sleeping bag and the ground.

Buy a solid, foam type sleeping pad over an air mattress, since an air mattress will allow the cold from the ground to seep up into your bag while you sleep.

You can also line the bottom of your tent with an emergency blanket. They are small and lightweight to carry and do a great job at reflecting your body heat up instead of passing it into the ground.

Sleeping bags warm up by trapping the heat emitted by your body, if you get into a cold sleeping bag it will take some time for it to warm up with your body heat. You can actually pre-heat your sleeping bag. For this, boil some water, put it in a water tight bottle and put that bottle in your sleeping bag 15-20 minutes before going to bed. This will make your sleeping bag warm and cozy and also help maintain your body

•

temperature during the night. But take extra care that the bottle is not leaking water because a wet sleeping bad is 100 times worse than a cold one.

Don’t breathe inside your sleeping bag at night.

Breathe through a woolen cloth or bandana instead.

Breathing inside the sleeping bag will form moisture, which will wet your sleeping bag and reduce its insulating capability.

inside your sleeping bag. Mornings in the winter can be very cold and it will be nice to have warm clothes to put on when you wake up.

Food: •

Winter Clothing: •

•

•

•

•

•

Some people go out in winter wearing just a heavy jacket over a shirt, this is fine when you are in town but during camping you need to wear clothes in layers. You can adjust these layers according to the temperature or the activities you are doing. For example, the energy emitted by your body will be different while you are just sitting compared to while you are hiking. Heavy clothing during hiking will make you produce more energy and sweat, that’s when you can remove a layer or two of clothing to adjust to your body’s needs.

Take the above suggestion and avoid a lot of sweating because it will wet your clothes and too much moisture in your clothes will make you even colder as it evaporates.

Avoid cotton and wear wool or synthetic. Cotton loses its insulating qualities when it gets wet. Cotton also takes a long time to dry out. Wool or synthetic materials are much better suited to winter camping in cold weather conditions.

If you will need to walk on snow, which you most probably do, you will need waterproof and insulated boots. They will protect your feet and socks getting wet by snow getting inside your boots.

Conserving your energy during night and sleeping with a lot of warm clothing is also important; sleep with a warm cap, gloves and socks. Keeping your head, hands and feet warm is important because most of the heat escapes the body from these areas.

Keep the clothes you are going to wear next morning

•

•

•

•

Carry a propane stove for morning coffee & breakfast.

You never know how long it may take to light a campfire during the morning and more so if you find your firewood wet. Having a propane stove helps you get your morning coffee or breakfast quickly which will provide you energy for other activities.

Arrange and lay out all the coffee, coffee pot, water, cups and stove for the morning. This also means getting the stove gassed up and ready so all it needs is a match to light it in the morning.

Consume food with more calories because your body works harder and needs more energy to do the same amount of work in cold than it does in the warmer months.

Always keep yourself hydrated by drinking a lot of water. You may not feel thirsty but your body loses a lot of water during the cold and you can easily get dehydrated.

Have a big, hot dinner before you sleep; this will provide enough fuel for your body to generate heat during the long winter night.

Last but not least, keep your worries aside and take time to enjoy your cold weather camping! There is so much serenity and the stillness in the outdoors during the winter which you will not see in warmer months when campgrounds are swarming with summer campers.

And before you go for next camping trip, you should definitely check out Camping in the Rain [http:// campingbytes.com/

camping-in-the-rain/]

ICE FISHI 10

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Ad Index

There are plenty of opportunities to simply walk or to drive

The Roar

Don’t shy away from telling the locals that you are planning to go ice fishing and asking them for any tips. Since Minnesota is first in the nation for the number of fishing licenses sold per capita (according the MN DNR), your chances of finding an angler to help you out are quite good! Often, you will find out not only a hot spot to check out but also a few insights such as how deep the fish are and what time of day they have been biting.

The Rush

r u o Y g n i r u D esota n n i M tion a c a V

It is also a common sight to see folks of all ages sitting on a folding chair or an overturned pail near their fishing hole without the cover of a fish house on nice sunny days. With or without the cover of a fish house, you can experience ice fishing on great Minnesota fishing lakes.

The Game

By Bonnie Tweed

Winter ice fishing, if you have never been, is sometimes difficult to imagine. If you have ever seen the movie “Grumpy Old Men” and have never been ice fishing, the scenes from the movie may be your only concept of the sport. While it’s true that the situation on the ice can be very much like a small community and there are rustic houses such as those depicted in the film, the amenities of a really first class “fish house” can be quite extensive! The more elaborate houses contain full kitchens, televisions and bunks to accommodate overnight fishermen in comfort. One way or another, they can all be heated for a plush Minnesota ice fishing excursion.

The Escape

ING

Minnesota is known as the “Land of 10,000 Lakes”. According to the MN Department of Natural Resources, there are actually closer to 12,000 lakes in the state. Of these nearly 12,000 lakes, 5,493 of them are fishable--and that doesn’t include fishable rivers and streams! Many of these lakes are located within close proximity right in the heart of Central Minnesota--a popular Minnesota vacation destination--and can be fished in the summer or winter.

Contents

In Minnesota, the natives take their winter fishing seriously. Every detail from location to equipment to comfort is carefully considered, with comfort being quite high on the list! On a beautiful, sunny day, it’s a pleasure to experience the action of catching a fish and reeling it up through the ice. With little preparation and over 5,000 fishable lakes, anglers of all ages and skill levels can easily enjoy the peaceful nature of ice fishing during an exciting Minnesota winter vacation.

(via auto, snowmobile or ATV) out onto the ice to fish. Yes, it’s true: the ice on the lakes gets thick enough to drive on during the winter! It is advised that you check the ice conditions on your lake to confirm it is thick enough before going out. The Minnesota DNR website provides great information about ice safety.

In addition to checking the ice conditions before heading out on the ice, you will want to gather your fishing gear.

Some basic fishing gear you may want or need include: a fishing rod and reel, fishing line, bait and tackle, bobber, ice auger, ice chisel and an ice scoop. Ice fishing rods are much shorter than an open water fishing rod; most anglers use a rod that is approximately 28 inches in length. It is best to spool your line on the reel before you hit the ice. Most stores that sell rods and line will be able to assist you with this task.

Once you’ve reached your destination on the ice, you must drill a hole through the ice. An ice auger is a special drill manufactured specifically for this task. The holes are typically 8-10 inches in diameter, depending on your auger. In popular fishing spots, these outdoor holes are often open from use by previous fishermen. If you locate an open hole that has been left by a previous angler, it is okay to use one of these. An ice chisel is used to break open the thinner ice that reforms over the holes, and the ice chips are removed with the assistance of an ice scoop to clear the hole. The line with baited hook is dropped into the hole to the proper depth, and a bobber can be attached to the line so you can see when a fish is nibbling the bait down below.

A successful ice fishing trip doesn’t end when you step off the ice. Pan fish bite readily and it isn’t difficult to bring enough fish back to shore for an excellent lunch. Walleye is one of the most sought-after fish in Minnesota, and proves to be a tasty treat for all of your drilling, bobbing and reeling efforts. A nice lunch starring your catch of the day will definitely put the Minnesota style into your ice fishing vacation.

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If you are vacationing in Minnesota, know that many MN resorts are fully equipped to provide visitors with everything needed for a fun Minnesota ice fishing expedition.

They can direct you to the nearest MN fishing licensing office. They also have the knowledge to get you started on your adventure, including bait and tackle, instructions and directions to the best places to try your luck. They even have fish houses all set up and ready to use for those who prefer to be indoors while catching their dinners. It is quite an experience to sit in a fish house, watching a football game, playing cards or reading a good book while waiting for a bite on your line!

Minnesota is also home to the world’s largest charitable ice fishing contest: The Brainerd Jaycees $150,000 Ice Fishing Extravaganza. This ice fishing competition is held each January in Brainerd, MN. With tons of prizes to be won and over 10,000 anglers on the ice at once, the Ice Fishing Extravaganza offers a truly unique ice fishing experience for all--one that is quite different from going out on the ice in a cozy fish house!

Whether you hit the ice with only your rod & reel or with a few extras for added comfort, a Minnesota fishing vacation in the winter is an experience you won’t forget.

Breezy Point resort offers Minnesota vacations to thousands of guests that come back year after year.

Visit http://www.breezypointresort.com to learn more!

Winter Trout Fly Fishing

By Cameron Larsen

It is winter time now. One step on the frozen porch steps first thing in the morning removes any doubt of that fact. Winter time brings on many thoughts: holidays, dark afternoons, football on TV and for me some of the best trout fly fishing there is.

That’s right, trout fishing. Winter steelhead fly fishing has been around a long time and gets more popular every season. But the truth of the matter is trout fly fishing can be excellent; the crowds are down to non-existent, the scenery and wildlife are plentiful and it makes those long days of early spring with nonstop rain and overflowing rivers more tolerable.

When to go:

Winter fly fishing demands a little timing and planning on your part. One nice thing is, the weekends aren’t crowded, so you really don’t need to ask the boss for time off. Other planning does need to be done. The first thing is checking your local regulations. Many places now offer year-round trout fly fishing. A good portion of this is probably catch and release but that only helps in further reducing the crowds. Some areas allow only lakes to be fished year round, some only allow rivers, but most places will allow something to be fished year round.

After you have your areas selected, you must really get an idea on the weather. Mild winter days, specifically afternoons, can provide some short-sleeve fishing opportunities. Coastal regions that rarely get snow or ice, need to be checked more for river levels. Three or four days of steady rain can really put a river at unfishable levels. It is also rarely enjoyable to fish in well below freezing temperatures. Even if you can dress warmly enough, the ice on the guides make casting nearly impossible, and the slickness of entering the river is extremely dangerous. Extreme care should be taken when wading in general, one slight misstep, can send you into the river, dangerous all year, this is multiplied by the cold air temperatures in the

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winter. Also light is much less, making it difficult to see the river bottom while wading, so step very cautiously and always fish with a partner.

OK, enough of the warnings, when to go is what we are after.

I prefer a nice period of dry weather, with mild afternoons. I rarely fish in the early morning in the winter but if you can get a fogged over morning with nicely rising afternoon temperatures that reach in to the 40s, you have a day to hit the water!

The southern US offers many excellent year around trout fishing locales, requiring much less pinpointing of the weather to enjoy. Georgia, Tennessee, Arkansas all the way to Arizona and California have superb trout fishing through the winter months, with temperatures well above freezing virtually all of the time.

What to wear:

A few years ago I switched to breathable waders and I actually have never been more comfortable while winter fishing. I layer underneath with two or three layers of thermal wear, including one layer of fleece pants. I can move much better than in neoprene’s, and there is no clamminess to bring on chills. Socks are also important. Silk liners with thick winter socks work for me.

I have a roomier pair of wading boots specifically for winter to allow for the extra bulk. I also don’t cinch my boots down too tight, as that seems to cut off circulation, nothing will ruin a fishing trip quicker than cold feet.

Many anglers wear fingerless fleece gloves. I like them only if there is a biting wind, otherwise I can’t seem to keep them dry long enough to make them worth the effort. I can cast adequately with either hand and will sometimes tuck my free hand inside my waders by my chest.

To me a hat is virtually as important as waders, and I layer shirts, remembering my vest will also provide some warmth.

Don’t forget the inside, a nice hot thermos of coffee, has brought many a sigh of satisfaction.

Fishing:

Winter trout fly fishing requires some adjustments. Plan on sub-surface fishing primarily. The warm afternoons like I mentioned above will produce Blue Wing Olive hatches in many locations and midges hatch year round as well. Some dry fly action can occur, especially on smaller streams where options are less for trout. But by and large plan on fishing nymphs.

And plan on fishing them deep. Depending on the size of water, a split or two is mandatory, and perhaps a sinking tip line. I

Contents The Escape

The Game

The Rush

The Roar

Ad Index

usually use two flies, one as a dropper. Good patterns include, imitations of food sources that are available year round like San Juan Worms, Chrinomid Pupas, Disco Midge, and WD-40’s.

General nymph patterns like Hare’s Ear and Prince Nymphs, will work to imitate the occasional nymph that might come in the trout’s path. Streamers also make excellent winter flies, including Woolly Buggers, Muddler’s and Mickey Finn’s. Don’t forget that like trout, small fish and nymphs metabolism is slow as well, and they are apt to stick to the bottom and out of the main current.

Many waters have scuds and sow bugs available year-round and they can provide some of the most dependable winter fishing. Also if there are sea-runs don’t forget Glo-Bugs, depending on the number of species, spawning can occur at any time and fish eggs are always on the trout’s menu.

Winter fishing usually means clear water. I use lighter tippet than normal because fish seem more easily spooked. Trout’s metabolism makes them want to seek out pools near the bank that are warmed by the sun, so they are more vulnerable. I usually forgo strike indicators as well. Also, remember that due to the slower metabolism, the fish will be sluggish. They often will bite gingerly, hook-ups will be primarily in the tongue. As trout may often go after several small insects in one mouthful,

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so rigorous setting of the hook is not required.

They are not likely to chase food down, as this will burn more calories than they will take in. While small pattern are very effective, in fact the first choice of many winter anglers, they need to be fished deep and in front of the fish. Dead drifting nymphs is my first choice. If no luck I will try swinging streamers, second. I mend my line as soon as it hits the water to ensure a drag free drift and wait for the gentle take. I let the fish do the setting.

Once landed, the winter fish might need more that its usual care before allowing it to swim free. Landing fish should be quicker due to their lower energy and then one must make sure the fish is 100% revived before its release.

Summary:

There you have it, like all forms of fly fishing, winter fly fishing takes a little practice and a lot of patience. But the surreal beauty of winter combined with the solitude it brings, makes this an especially rewarding time of year.

Cameron Larsen is owner of Big Y Fly Co. at http://www.bigyflyco.com

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I have vivid memories of arriving at work and spending 10 minutes peeling my jeans off. I must have been more stupid than I realized when I was young.

The first parts of clothing I would look at is the base layer.

The layer next to the skin. These need to be light and warm and able to pull sweat off the skin. I use training vests, the same ones I use for the gym. Good quality ones which have a thin lining inside to pull the sweat from your body.

I would suggest you avoid cheap vests that don’t take the sweat off your body, you’ll soon start to get cold and uncomfortable with these. I know, I’ve tried them. Your next layer

Ad Index

What I consider crucial to winter cycling is staying warm and dry. There’s nothing worse than getting wet and having miles to ride. In the bad old days, when I was a young man and used to cycle in jeans, I can still remember cycling in the rain with my thighs soaking wet and water dripping from the hems of my jeans.

I always carry a string pulled canvass cycle bag. I find it comfortable and more than big enough to carry everything I need.

The Roar

I can’t even imagine getting on my bike in a vest and shorts in wind and rain; the mere thought is sending me into spasms of shivering.

So wearing the right clothing is the first point I would suggest to prevent miserable winter cycling experiences. Another point is if you are going on a decent length ride, say about thirty miles plus, then you may want to take clothes off as you start to heat up, so a good bag on your back is essential.

The Rush

The enthusiasm for commuting to work on a bike soon drops off in the winter but it doesn’t need to. Winter cycling calls for a few adjustments and a change of clothing. I was reading on one forum about a guy who had braved the wind and rain to get to work in shorts and a vest. Was he brave or stupid?.

Staying comfortable and dry is not only essential to your well-being but is crucial to your safety. If you’re freezing and wet you will make mistakes on the road. If you have your head down to protect yourself from a cold wind you’re not looking where you are going and you are reducing your safety awareness.

The Game

Well like it or not winter is approaching fast and with the wet autumn we’re enduring I’ve already seen a drastic drop in cyclists on the roads. The bike shed at my work place has been emptying steadily week by week until it’s just the hard core riders left with plenty of spaces to choose from.

The Escape

By Paul Merry

Contents

Winter Cycling

of clothing would be a cycling shirt or thin jacket for insulation.

These need to be light and compact because you may take them off and have to put them in your bag. A thin fleece is perfect.

The outer jacket needs to be windproof and waterproof. The summer jacket I wear can’t stop a drop of rain so it goes into hibernation for the winter. And a good pair of winter tights make all the difference to your comfort. For a few years I ignored this and continued to cycle through the winter in my normal summer tights. I eventually got sensible and invested in a good pair of winter tights. The change, I can tell you, was immense, and my winter cycling experience much more enjoyable.

A good pair of warm waterproof gloves are also an essential piece of the kit that will make your riding much pleasanter. The cold will get to your hands first and pretty quick, so invest in good quality gloves. You shouldn’t be cold when you’re cycling. If you allow yourself to get cold, not only doesn’t it feel nice, but you are compromising your safety. If you’re thinking about your cold hands or feet you’re not watching what’s going on around you.

ter as your bike gets assaulted by salt, water and grit. Pay special attention to your chain and gearing mechanisms. It doesn’t require much. Every week or so clean your chain. Get a piece of rag (Not kitchen towels like I have been known to. It’s not worth the hour’s ear bashing from the wife) and just run it down the chain. Get all the grit off, concentrate on the gears as well. Once you have cleaned the chain, oil it with good gear oil. Oil all the parts that move. This is basic maintenance but very effective to maintaining your bike in good condition.

Once you’re happy with that just give your bike a quick once over with a damp towel to get all the grime off it. You don’t need to be a mechanic to keep your bike running well.

I always have an extra flashing back light in the winter to give

Lots of guys I know have another bike for winter. Their best bike is put away and their winter bike comes out. This is a good idea if you can afford it. With a winter bike you can get some mud guards on, essential I’d say. I’ve ruined many good jackets through the winter with salt and rain splashes forming a line up my back. The roads are usually wet most of the time and getting blathered with salt and mud is not very nice. I’d consider mud guards essential for winter commuting.

With a bike dedicated for winter riding you can go to work on it and prepare it thoroughly. I’d put some heavy duty tires on it. I’ve spent a few times with my bike upside down in the rain putting a new inner tube in so good puncture resistant tires are an essential part of getting ready for winter.

Winter commuting is not about speed, it’s about comfort, warmth and of course safety. By having a bike solely for winter it will save the wear and tear on your best bike. You can keep that nice and clean, not subjecting it to the rigors of winter. Get it out for a blow out on those nice dry fresh winter days that come now and again, but keep it away from wet salt encrusted roads.

Some basic bike maintenance will be more essential in the win-

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me added visibility. Sometimes it’s just not sensible to go out on your bike if it’s chucking it down with a gale force wind, but in milder winter weather there’s no reason to put your bike away.

By wearing the right clothes and staying warm and keeping your bike well maintained you can keep cycling throughout the winter. Winter cycling can even be pleasant.

Thanks for reading.

Paul has been cycling for over thirty years and is the author of the blog “ Defensive Cycling « A blog that discusses all things cycling related with a special emphasis on safety. For a free «Cycling For Life” book go to Defensive Cycling.

SKI TESTING BOOTS 1,2,3 22

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Contents The Escape The Game

The Rush

Softer Ski Boots for Shaped Skis

•

Ad Index

Since the initiation of the turn starts with the foot, and the foot rests inside the boot, it seems logical to begin this ski equipment series of articles with the ski boot. If your boots are uncomfortable, don’t flex adequately, or your feet are out of alignment, your performance and technique will be adversely affected. In addition, foot comfort and alignment are critical for expert skiers, since they affect the ability to maintain a balanced stance.

With the advent of shaped skis, subtle foot-and-ankle steering has almost replaced the need to apply strong forward pressure to the tips of the skis. To compensate, boot manufacturers began to make ski boots with more natural flex built right into the design. The result is a softer more comfortable ski boot, with better handling characteristics.

The Roar

By Jim Safianuk

The ski boots we examine will be geared to the expert skier. First, we’ll cover the following topics Stance Test

•

Knee Tracking Test

•

To get a Good Fit find a Good Fitter

•

Ankle Flexion Test

In this way, you’ll be knowledgeable about your own feet and stance, as well as about boot mechanics and terminology when you approach your local boot fitter.

For those who are happy with their straight-sided or subtle side-cut skis and conventional ski boots, please stay with us especially if you are having trouble with your boots in terms of fit, comfort or stiffness. You may just need an external flex adjustment, an internal modification to eliminate a pressure point, or a foot bed to replace the original insole that came with your ski boots.

Stance Test

To ski like an expert, you need a stable platform for your feet, and your body must be in alignment. How important is it for you to ride a flat ski? If you are a beginner, maybe it’s not that important. If you are an aspiring expert, proper alignment is essential. Put another way, a strong stable foot that’s properly balanced makes for a strong skier.

In this section, and the next two, we’ll examine whether or not you have stance issues and alignment problems. To test if you have a problem with your stance, stand in front of a mirror and slowly bring your legs together.

• • •

If your knees touch before your ankles, you’re knockkneed.

If your ankles touch before your knees, you’re bowlegged.

If they both meet at the same time, you’re from another planet.

What’s best? A slightly knock-kneed stance is considered to be best for downhill skiing. However, too much knock is not good. In addition, all bow-legged stances make it difficult to accurately pressure the edges of your skis.

Make a note of your stance, so you can discuss with your boot fitter.

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Knee Tracking Test

Knee Tracking tests to see whether or not your knees track straight when you flex forward.

1. Find a partner to help you measure.

2. Stand with your feet six to eight inches apart.

3. Measure the distance between your knees with a tape measure.

4. Flex forward and ensure that your heels remain on the floor.

5. Now, measure the distance between your knees again.

If the distance between your knees increases or decreases, your foot is rolling inward or outward, respectively.

Ideally, you want your knees to track straight when you flex forward. If they don’t, it’s a sign that your foot is collapsing. You may need the support offered by a foot bed, which is a custom insole molded for your particular foot.

Make a note of your test result, so you can discuss with your boot fitter.

Ankle Flexion Test

It is critical for the expert skier to find out whether or not he/she is transferring energy efficiently to the front of the boot. The following test can be used to determine your flexion range.

1. Find a partner to help you with this test.

2. Stand with your feet six to eight inches apart.

3. Flex forward and ensure that your heels remain on the floor.

If you can flex the front of your knees forward to a point between the base of your big toe and approximately one inch beyond it, you have a good range of flexion. However, if your knees stop at your instep or go way past the big toe, you need to have your boots flex-tuned for your particular lower body. Make a note of this test result, so you can discuss with your boot fitter.

To get a Good Fit find a Good Fitter

Armed with your stance, knee tracking and ankle flexion test results and a pair of ski socks that you will be wearing during the ski season, it’s time to visit a reputable ski shop in your area. What do you mean by a reputable ski shop?

A sporting goods store sells all types of equipment, whereas a ski shop specializes in ski equipment and clothes in the fall and winter months. A good ski shop will have trained and experienced ski boot fitters on staff.

If you can’t find such a store locally, drive to the nearest town or city which has a shop suited to your needs.

Comfort and Performance

Once inside the ski shop, prepare to spend three to four hours for a proper fit. Yes, three to four hours! You’ll be wearing the boots for the next five to ten years, so it’s imperative that you spend the time initially to get the best fit.

As an aspiring expert, you want the best fit possible, so you can reap the best of both worlds. You need to strike a balance between comfort and performance.

In terms of comfort, the expert skier needs a boot that he or she buckles up in the morning, and rarely needs to adjust throughout the day. There should be no pain, pinching or pressure points, and your feet should never get numb or cold. The fit should be so good that you don’t mind leaving them tightened up during your lunch break.

In terms of performance, aspiring experts need boots that they hardly know they are wearing.

The boot should feel like an extension of the foot. When you roll your ankle and foot, even slightly,

you should get a lightning fast response from the inside of the boot to the edge of the ski. The time lag should be minimal.

Jim Safianuk is a certified ski instructor and writer of the downhill skiing lessons in the course Skills of the Expert Skier. If you are interested in becoming an expert skier and/or you want to find out when the next article about ski boots will be published, click here: http://www.becomeanexpertskier.com/

COUNT ON IT.

Photo: Wes Doss, Khyber Training

The all new AUG A3 M1 and the L9-A1 pistol, the perfect combination for sports shooters and law enforcement professionals, alike.

AUG A3 M1 Rifle

The new multi-configurable AUG A3 M1 variant of the Steyr’s venerable bullpup platform marks the introduction of MUD and the return of OD Green to its stock color options and adds new features like a front Quick-Disconnect Sling Swivel to classic characteristics like the quick-detach 16-inch barrel and battle-proven short-stroke gas-piston operation. It is available in Short-Rail, High-Rail and Integrated Optic versions with either a 1.5X or 3X scope. At 28.15 inches, Y SBR?

For more information visit

www.steyrarms.com Phone: [205] 417.8644

L-A1 Pistol

Featuring a full-length slide, 4.5-inch cold-hammer-forged barrel and 17-round magazine capacity for its 9x19mm Luger chambering and 12 rounds for .40 S&W, the new L-A1 service pistol was designed for the serious shooter to serve the dual role of a duty and sporting handgun. With its comfortable ergonomics, a remarkably low bore axis, a crisp short-reset trigger, extreme reliability and amazing accuracy, the L-A1 is the perfect partner on the range and off.

TOP 7

By Martha McKittrick

Nutritional Tips to Improve Your Skiing Performance 1. Stay hydrated. You may not feel thirsty in the cold weather, however your body needs hydration in order to perform at its best. Staying hydrated is just as important in cold weather as in warm weather. Stop to drink something every 2 hours or so. Since drinking cold water in 15 degree weather is not so appealing, try warm water with some lemon, hot tea or hot chocolate.

2. Eat a good breakfast. The ideal breakfast is one that includes carbohydrates along with some protein. This will provide you with sustained energy levels.

Suggestions:

- oatmeal with raisins and walnuts - peanut butter on toast - yogurt (my favorite is the Greek yogurt!) with banana and whole grain cereal - omelet with toast - whole grain cereal, fruit and low fat milk

3. Eat a moderate sized lunch. Eating too little won’t give you enough energy for your afternoon runs. But on the other hand, eating too much can cause you to feel sluggish and lose your “ski legs”. In addition, it can make buttoning your tight ski pants somewhat difficult.

4. Include carbs and protein at lunch. This combination will give you sustained energy levels throughout the day. Go easy on the fat as it takes longer to digest.

5. Avoid low-carbing. This is not the time to embark on the Atkins diet. Our muscles need carbs for fuel and our

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brains need carbs to think clearly. (go around the tree... not into it) A salad with grilled chicken is not the ideal lunch - unless you have a few pieces of bread with it. In addition, eating adequate carbs (versus fat) helps your body acclimatize to the high altitude.

6. Consume adequate calories. Skiing burns a significant amount of calories. The extra weight of heavy clothing and boots can increase your caloric expenditure by 5-15 percent. Remember how exhausting it feels just carrying your skiis and boots to the base lift? Consuming adequate calories will help your body to perform at its best. Note: this doesn’t give you permission to gorge.

7. Pack snacks with you. You easily eat an energy bar on the chairlift. It will give you a burst of energy for that bump run you’ve been eying. Again, focus on carbs as they provide the quickest energy.

While I can’t guarantee my tips will turn you into Lindsey Vonn or Bode Miller, they will help you perform to the best of your ability.

Martha McKittrick is a registered dietitian and certified diabetes educator in NYC with over 20 years’ experience. She offers individual nutrition counseling and group lectures as well as being available for a spokesperson. To learn more about Martha, visit her website [http://www.martha-nutritionist.com/].

Visit her blog City Girl Bites http://citygirlbites.com/ blog/ to learn more about healthy eating on the run and to receive free nutrition do

Our mission is to empower generations to enjoy the outdoors responsibly. So join us. Travel only in areas with adequate snow cover. Be courteous to others you encounter. Leave a good impression. It’s up to you to be an ambassador for your sport and the great outdoors. For more ways to minimize your impact, go to www.treadlightly.org or call 1-800-966-9900.

Š2005 Tread Lightly!

By Jerrod Kelley Co-Author: John Prusak

Tips for Moving Sn 28

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We compiled a few tips and tricks for ATV owners who plan to use their quad for plowing snow. From choosing the right size and style of snow plow blade to lifting choices to other parts and accessories, we’ll help you move more snow.

important when you factor in the extra weight that’s added by bolting on a snow plow kit.

Plow Choices

ATV snow plow blades come in all sorts

of shapes and sizes. From 42-inch blades to 60-inch DOT-style designs to V-shape configurations, it can be confusing selecting

lifted off the ground.

Blades can be used to cut straight paths or angled to push the snow to the side of the ATV, much like a DOT dump truck does on the highway. Some of the heavier plows will require you to tune your quad’s front sus-

pension. The additional weight of a winch, plow, plow tubes and more will make the

front end squat when the blade is attached and especially when lifted in the air. If the stock shocks don’t offer enough preload adjustment, though most should, you can explore purchasing aftermarket shocks. A few preload devices exist for machines with struts up front. These bolt-on suspensions will help during plowing and while enjoying trails. It is a win-win.

Lifting Choices

When it comes to lifting the plow, you

basically have three choices: Hand, winch, electronic actuator or similar device. The manual lift is the most affordable design, but it’s also the most cumbersome to

Ad Index

For the snow belt, moving snow with an ATV is a big deal. First of all, it replaces shoveling. Secondly, it proves to your spouse the ATV was a sensible and useful purchase.

is the heavy-duty aluminum SnowSport by Agri-Cover, which has been anodized and hardened. It is different than most blades because it’s lighter and does not need to be

The Roar

It is pretty obvious in the snow, where traction is a necessity, four-wheel drive is an important feature for plowing. However, even some 4×4s struggle with stock tires (more on that later). In most cases a 4×4 quad is the best choice. Some of these models now have a locking front differential that can improve traction. And some manufacturers have released models with power steering, which they claim will drastically lighten the steering effort of a 4×4 quad when plowing snow. That’s especially

Most blades are steel and powder coated in a variety of colors. Depending on the size and design, obviously, some are heavier than others. One of the lightest snow plows

The Rush

Machine

72-inch blades as well. Keep in mind, most quads are roughly 48 inches wide and to plow a path equal to the width of the ATV, you’ll need at least a 50-inch blade. The smallest blades, those 42 to 48 inches wide, when angled, will make paths smaller than 48 inches wide.

The Game

people saying, “What about a lawn tractor?”

We usually come back with something like, “How much suspension travel does your Cub Cadet have?” Or “What’s its top speed?”

That usually quiets the critics. Even small skid loader fans can’t argue with an ATV’s versatility or affordability.

Our rule of thumb is, for any 4×4 less than 500cc displacement, select a plow that’s smaller than 50 inches. For quads with engines larger than 500cc, you can go with a 60-inch blade or larger. The largest bigbore utility quads should be able to handle

The Escape

That’s with an ATV. We can hear some

the correct plow for your ATV or UTV. Yeah, that’s right, some plow manufacturers are even producing snow blades for side-byside utility machines.

Contents

now

There’s snow falling from the mountains in California, over the plains states and moving towards the East Coast. The weather channel is calling it a BLIZZARD. Those who live in the snow belt know what this means... it’s time to shovel the drive. But there is an easier way.

operate and difficult to lift. The winch-assisted lifting is ideal for many ATV owners because they already have a winch installed for other reasons.

Finally, the most expensive method is the electronic actuator. It actually has an auxiliary motor and does all the plow lifting and lowering via a toggle switch. Snow plow enthusiasts love it because it saves their winch cable and simplifies the operating process.

Parts & Accessories

For plowing snow, some people want every accessory they can get. This includes parts such as blade markers or those yellow or orange sticks marking the edge of the plow blade. This helps to avoid hidden landscape blocks, because the operator can always see the edge of the blade. Foot skids are sort of like anti-scalping devices for snow plows.

They prevent the plow from digging too deep and keep it floating across the surface.

Wear bars add strength to the plow blades and are designed to cut a better path. They come in both steel and plastic.

End shields reduce the amount of snow from escaping from the plow blade and produce more efficient plowing. Those rubber flaps on the top of some snow plows are good because they prevent flying snow from hitting the operator or allowing snow and ice to pass over the plow and coat the radiator.

As we said before, traction is important for plowing snow. Some underpowered ATVs or 2WD quads will require the addition of tire chains. These will give the rear wheels more traction and prevent them from slipping on the slick snow and ice. For super slippery spots or driveways with hills, you can even add tire studs. We found it best to add the small, sharpened sheet metal screws to an old set of stock tires for winter use. Be aware, both of these methods could do damage to your driveway, depending on the conditions and the type of surface it is.

A few ATV owners we know with large

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driveways use a pull-behind broadcast spreader filled with salt or ice melt to keep ice from forming once they’ve plowed. This is especially important if the surrounding snow piles melt back on to your sidewalk or driveway.

Procedure

One way to determine you are plowing your driveway correctly is to watch someone who has experience doing it. Of course, you could learn by the seat of your pants, but watching someone else do it could pay off.

Watching snow plowing could mean watch-

ing that diesel truck push snow across the bank parking lot, or it could mean watching your neighbor use his ATV. The goal is to learn what not to do.

Don’t plow fast! This can be dangerous because the blade could catch on an edge or rock or curb and force the ATV to a jarring halt. Typically, you’ll want to drive at a pace that both pushes snow effectively, yet is not so fast it damages the blade or any of its parts. Practice makes perfect. Plus, your quad’s speed will be determined by the amount of traction it’s getting and the type of snow you are trying to move.

Don’t tear up your lawn. A smart move is to push the snow further than to the edge of your driveway, if possible. That way, when the temperature warms up, the snow won’t melt on your driveway and form patchy ice. The theory is, if you push it far enough away from your driveway, it will melt into the ground and not on the driveway.

Don’t push all the snow in your driveway

to the end of the drive, especially if it’s a wet, sticky snow. All this will do is create one large, firmly packed wall of white stuff.

Your ATV is not powerful enough to move it and that means you’ll have to bust out a shovel.

We’ve tried several methods over the years and a down and back method seems to work for us. It creates less snow build up or deep spots. We’ve also pushed one direction to the edge of a driveway and then

stopped, reversed the quad and created a

new path in the same direction. However, you must lift the blade off the ground be-

fore you back up, unless the manufacturer says it’s not necessary.

Some professional snow plow operators have learned the skill of lifting the plow blade as they approach the pile. This has a couple advantages. The first is it lifts the

snow to new heights and helps you push it farther off your driveway or open lot. The second is it prevents you from smashing into the wall of snow and possibly damaging the blade or its parts.

This is far easier to learn and accomplish with either a winch-operated plow or with

an electric lift device. You only have to master the toggle switch. While you are doing this, carefully inspect the winch or lift cable for any ice/snow dams or pinching.

Don’t assume your plow will always work perfectly. Regardless of which system you select, you must examine it before, during and after each usage. Look at it before you plow for loose parts or winch cable damage, for example. Inspect it while you plow to prevent ice buildup, which can make pushing snow more difficult. Finally, examine after you plow so you know it will be ready to go the next time you need it. Plus, if you find any damage, you may have time

to order new parts before the next massive snow storm hits.

Despite being called snow plows, the majority of ATV owners find other uses for the blades. From working on the farm to cleaning stables to pushing dirt, sand and rock around a landscape site, ATV plow blades are extremely versatile.

John Prusak is Group Publisher of ATV Magazine and Snow Goer magazine. He has more than 15 year’s experience riding snowmobiles and ATVS and just as much

experience writing about them. Learn what he and his team of ATV journalists have to say about all 2010 models of ATVS from all the manufacturers. Visit [http://www. atvmagonline.com/category/atvs/

Tips for the Safe Use of Snow Chains

By Janet Ashby

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12 3 Snow Chain Types

In an emergency, strap on chains can be used. They are meant for short distances only or to help move a vehicle that is already stuck. On roads where snow chain use is mandatory they may not be legal. In an emergency they provide good traction and are very easy to install although they can only be attached to slotted wheels. Use them in pairs, attached to either both rear or both front tires.

Ad Index

For more information and some good deals on Honda and Craftsman Snowblowers check out Honda Snowblowers [http://getsnowblowers.com/honda-snowblowers/] or Craftsman Snowblowers [http://getsnowblowers.com/ craftsman-snowblowers/]

Now drive forward a few feet, enough to expose the rest of the tire, stop and engage the parking brake. Go back to the tire and finish fitting the chain.

Tighten the chains. Now drive about a hundred feet, stop again and go back and re-tighten the chains. Now you are ready to drive with your snow chains.

The Roar

Strap on Emergency Snow Chains

Do not deflate the tires to make them easier to fit. They should always be fitted to tires at their normal pressure.

Make sure the car is in gear and parking brake is engaged before you start. Put the chain on the tire, holding it at the top, and make sure it is placed evenly.

You will not be able to place the bottom part on the tire at this point. For chains with rings make sure the open connection is at the bottom of the tire. After you have placed the chain with the ring on the inside of the wheel the bottom of the ring can be connected. You might have to get down right under the car to do this.

The Rush

Steel rollers give increased traction and give the maximum clearance between the tire and the wall of the fender. They are also very lightweight. If your vehicle has very little clearance, twist link chains will be better. Highway chains are recommended for vehicles with maximum clearance of the wheel well as they are heavier and more durable. One make you could consider is Road King as the square link design gives minimal vibration, which will give a more comfortable ride. Sno Grip chains, which also have a square link design, give excellent traction which helps with cornering and stopping. V-bar chains are heavy duty chains meant for snow clearing vehicles.

Putting on the Snow Chains

The Game

The most economical snow chains are cable chains and these are recommended for all front wheel drive vehicles.

The Escape

Before purchasing snow chains, read your manual and find out if snow chains can be safely used on your vehicle. The manual will also tell you the correct size to purchase. Also, find out the regulations for your state as they can vary considerably. Once you have purchased your snow chains, practice putting them on as this can be awkward, especially the first time, and you will be much better practicing in your driveway with the sun shining than on a cold road in the dark.

Contents

During the winter, snow and ice on the roads cause driving conditions that can be dangerous for even the most experienced drivers. The danger can be reduced considerably by fitting appropriate snow chains to your vehicle when these conditions occur.

Steyr Arms Introduces OD Green and MUD Scout Rifles; Slashes Prices on the Entire Scout Lineup Steyr Arms announced today that it has expanded its Scout Rifle line with the introduction of OD Green and “MUD” stock variants, both of which are now on American soil. Steyr also announced a substantial across-the-board reduction to the suggested retail price of its Scout Rifle offerings.

Due to the increased popularity of the Scout Rifle and a large purchase order from its parent company in Austria, Steyr is now offering a lower retail price of $1,699 for a Black, Gray, OD Green or MUD Scout Rifle in .308 Win. And now through the end the year, Steyr is offering an additional $200 savings, making a new .308 Scout Rifle just $1,499.

Steyr’s OD Green was first used more than 40 years ago on the legendary SSG 69 tacti-

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cal rifle. OD Green was rebooted last month with the introduction of the AUG A3 M1 rifle, and it is now available as a standard stock-color option for the Scout. The new MUD color offering is similar to the familiar field dark earth color, and it also now available on the Scout Rifle.

The Steyr Scout was the result of a unique and nearly decade-long collaboration between scout-rifle-concept creator Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper and Steyr Mannlicher, GmbH. The lightweight, .308-caliber bolt-action, all-purpose Steyr Scout rifle can accept a low-powered, forward-mounted scope for accurate fire and both-eyes-open operation to detect flanking dangers. Backup “ghostring” iron sights integrated to the top rail can be deployed within seconds should the optics fail.

In keeping with Cooper’s requirement for a magazine cutoff, Steyr incorporated a two-position magazine system that allowed the rifle to be fed individually with the five-round magazine in a lowered position. The magazine could

be seated one step further with minimal pressure, allowing the bolt to feed cartridges directly from the magazine. A second five-round backup magazine is contained in the buttstock.

The Scout Rifle also features a bipod that is seamlessly integrated to the stock when closed. Five sling-swivel attachment points allow the addition of Cooper’s favored Ching Sling on either side of the rifle.

Measuring just 39.4 inches and weighing in at 6.6 pounds, the Steyr Scout also features a fluted 20-inch cold-hammer-forged barrel.

About Steyr Arms Celebrating its 150th anniversary this year, Steyr Mannlicher, GmbH, is one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious firearms manufacturers. Steyr’s comprehensive lines of premium hunting rifles and precision sporting and tactical firearms are technically mature, and their subtle elegance also communicates the harmony between appearance and substance.

Steyr’s legendary SBS actions and cold-hammer-forged barrels are distinctive and unparalleled. Steyr Arms is the subsidiary headquarters of Steyr Mannlicher in the U.S. For more information, contact Steyr Arms at 2530 Morgan Rd., Bessemer, AL 35022; call (205) 417-8644; or visit www.steyrarms.com.

NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Contents The Escape The Game

Pg.

Crew Bed

1

Dee Zee

IFC

www.deezee.com

Freedom Hunters

21

www.freedomhunters.org

Hallmark Cutlery

16

www.hallmarkcutlery.com

Kahr Firearms

BC

www.kahr.com

Knife Rights

17

www.kniferights.org

Larson Electronics

31

www.larsonelectronics.com

Reconyx

13

www.reconyx.com

Safety Seal

IBC

www.safetyseal.com

Steyr Arms

25

www.steyrarms.com

Tread Lightly

27

www.treadlightly.org

Truck Air Bedz

36

www.truckairbedz.com

Ad Index

The Roar

The Rush

Company

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Website www.crewbed.com

®

2014 New Models from Kahr and Magnum Research, Inc. ®

KAHR VALUE SERIES

NEW!!

CT45

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4543 Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 4.04” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.25” Slide Width: 1.01” Length O/A: 6.57” Weight: 23.7 oz

NEW!!

CT40

MSRP: $449.00

Model: CT4043 Caliber: .40 S&W Barrel: 4.0” Capacity: 7+1

Height: 5.13” Slide Width: .94” Length O/A: 6.5” Weight: 21.8 oz

NEW!!

DE1911U Model: DE1911U Caliber: .45 ACP Barrel: 3.0” Capacity: 6+1

MSRP: $946.00

Height: 5.0” Slide Width: 1.28” Length O/A: 6.85” Weight: 25.8 oz

www.kahr.com | www.tommygun.com | www.auto-ordnance.com | www.magnumresearch.com