Fashion and the Postmodern The A-Z Guide
Charlotte Dobson
“Probably fashion will never be politically correct: if it were, it would be purely functional.� Bernard Willhelm
When it comes to Postmodernism, people are always left slightly vague, yes they’ll have heard the term before but can’t actually explain what it is. Therefore the main reason for creating this book was to educate...not in an overwhelming and boring way... but to interest people and illustrate how postmodern a culture we actually are. A big inspiration has been the wonderfully eccentric Italian, Anna Piaggi. After reading Fashion Algebra, i saw the importance of contextualising fashion and showing the links between contemporary fashion and the past. Incorporating the past into the present is a key element of postmodernism, and hopefully by then end of this book you’ll get a clearer idea. When reading this, please note that it has not been formed in the traditional way for a dictionary, as in the words do not typically all begin with the same letter...i’m sure you will get the gist when you start reading!
AlexanderMcQueen
Renowned for his innovative and borderline wacky designs (Circa 1995 Bumster jeans) McQueen was a champion of postmodern fashion. Often showing off his vast bank of knowledge of different time periods and events, he would create theatrical shows to shock and entertain. Satirically they were a genius mash up; putting his own McQueen spin on everything from Christian Dior’s New Look to Sex dolls to Victorian dress. *see Victoriana
Ambiguous
Ambiguity is not having one set meaning, which allows scope for interpretation and conflicting opinions. In recent years this term has become even more relevant…thanks to the rise of the media in contemporary culture.
MarieAntoinette
One of Sofia Coppola’s most famous films, the tragic story of Marie Antoinette was reinterpreted into this lavish costume drama. Unfortunately 99% of the budget appeared to be spent on the visual aesthetic and clichés, resulting in a misguided tale of champagne, cake and coiffured wigs. Additionally, the actress Kirsten Dunst appeared on the cover of American Vogue shortly after the film’s release, resulting in a postmodern pompadour.
Architecture
Often seen as cultural and artistic symbols, architecture can reflect and showcase the current era or movement. Many theorists and artists argue that postmodernism stemmed from architecture, as a reaction against modernist designs. Architecture and contemporary culture are heavily linked, fashion also gets many inspirations from its shape and structure. Designers Karl Lagerfeld, Mary Katrantzou and Rick Owens have all taken inspiration from iconic buildings, directly or indirectly. * see Domus and Elmgreen and Dragset.
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“The Horn of Plenty” Alexander McQueen A/W 2009
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Barbie
A very postmodern lady, an icon of beauty and loved by Jeremy Scott, she can be dressed up in whatever takes her fancy. To quote those Norwegian masters of sound Aqua “ You can brush her hair, undress her everywhere…Imagination, life is your creation” *see Jeremy Scott
MalcolmBarnard
Malcolm Barnard has delved into the world of fashion and postmodernism in his book Fashion as Communication, where he examines the role of fashion in contemporary culture. Referencing key theorists such as Roland Barthes and Jean Baudrillard, he discusses key semiotic postmodern ideas and their purpose today.
JeanBaudrillard
Baudrillard was a French philosopher who explored the relationship between reality, symbols and society. He saw meaning as virtually self-referential; one object’s meaning is only plausible through its relation to the meaning of other objects. His book Simulacra and Simulation is a thorough exploration of the complex world of signs and meaning.
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BlurredLines
No not the catchy anti-feminist song, but the effect postmodernism is having on the fashion industry. Technically it is blurring the lines between mainstream and countercultural fashion, for example who’s going to stop you from wearing a Sari over your Topshop jeans? Nobody. The idea of cross-referencing is completely contemporary, people no longer are bound by certain trends; dress is no longer associated with status*‌we now have Facebook and twitter for that. * Up until the 20th century clothing was a visual signifier in the fact that it was associated with your class, background and basically represented your whole lifestyle.
Bricolage Bricks, Bric, Bric-olage‌ this is fundamentally postmodern and is a popular technique used by designers and artists worldwide. It means to combine and assemble things from the old to form something new. The idea of lego bricks is a good trick in remembering what it means, theoretically re-building or re-assembling to create something completely different. One day the bricks could have formed a door for your lego house, the next they could be used to create a wing of a plane.
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Moschino S/S 2015
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JeanCharles de Castelbajac
The man, who adorned Madonna in a coat of teddy bears and Lady Gaga in one of Kermit the Frog, is famous for his outlandish fashion creations and collaborations. Castalbajac merges iconic symbols of childhood with high fashion, alongside his interplay of signs within fashion he also explores their role within art. In 2009 he created the show Triumph of the Sign which illustrated his fascination between art and consumer culture, placing iconic recognisable logos over equally iconic art masterpieces.
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo challenges Western fashion with her abstract collections for Comme des Garcons, a key figure of the minimalist trend that emerged in the late 1980s. Her vision of clothing incorporates postmodernism through the rebellion against traditional forms and gender boundaries, creating looks that exist apart from the body.
DianaCrane
Crane has written key texts on fashion, identity and consumer culture. She believes that the consumption of cultural goods plays an increasingly important role in the development of personal identity. Her essay Postmodernism and the Avant-Garde: Stylistic Change in Fashion Design is
Consumption
Postmodernity conceives of an object in terms of consumption, whereas modernity conceives of an object in terms of production. The rise in ‘Fast-Fashion’ has only furthered our levels of consumption, the fact that there is so much option in society creates something called ‘Postmodern Crisis of Meaning’.This means that people become confused as there are so many options available that it can become difficult to select one.
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“Postmodernity is a globalizing, post industrial world of media, communication and information systems. It is organised on the basis of a market-orientated world of consumption rather than work and production…it is a world of culture in which tradition, consensual values…universal beliefs and standards have been challenged, undermined and rejected for heterogeneity, differentiation and difference.” Malcolm Barnard
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Venus of the Rags 1967 Michelangelo Pistoletto
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Dior
As a brand, Dior have consistently brought out Postmodern collections, John Galliano and Raf Simons furthered this vision when they took over as creative director. The iconic ‘New Look’ was ultimately not even that ‘New’, it referenced a return to La Belle Epoque* and a fashionable revival from postwar austerity; nothing like a new skirt to raise/rally morale. *a late 19th century period renowned for its flourishing design, innovation and optimism.
DIY
Rips, safety pins, paint, slogans…customisation is a key element in postmodern fashion where people strive for difference. It emphasizes difference so that there is no metanarrative, effectively no real right or wrong.
Domus
If you’re fluent in Italian then this Avant-garde art and design magazine is essential reading, other than that there’s always the pictures…
Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
The stylist who aided Anna Wintour in her first ever cover for US Vogue in 1988, the Guess denim and Christian La Croix combination was one of the most groundbreaking outfits of the time. Dudzeele loves vulgarity and believes there is a very fine line between that and beauty, which is evident in her sartorial combinations.
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“I love the internet...i’m obsessed with it.”
Vogue Italia 2014 Photographed by Steven Meisel Styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
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“I love vulgarity, but a certain vulgarity!� Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
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Eclecticism
A tendency in architecture and the decorative arts to mix historical styles with modern elements, combining the virtues of many styles. This creates more allusive content, which means that any intended message is less direct and more suggestive, allowing the viewer to get more involved in deciphering it. The term can also be misappropriated for bizarre or quirkiness.
ElmgreenandDragset
The dynamic artist duo behind the conceptual Prada Marfa sculpture in Texas, they called it a “Pop architectural land art project�. A merge of fashion, art and architecture, made even more striking thanks to its desert location. It can be seen as a criticism of consumerism, perhaps why it has been a target for vandals ever since it was created.
Eurotrash
If postmodernism was a tv programme, this would be it...
Explicit
Postmodern fashion can be very subjective and controversial; nudity is a proven form of spectacle, for those with a delicate disposition anyway.
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TheFace
The art director of the 1980s, Neville Brody, created distinctive typographic and visual layouts for this influential magazine. The Face was like today’s i-D magazine, it is an iconic publication of the postmodern era and strived for difference amongst the seemingly generic and extravagant 1980s. Notably controversial with its subject matter, in 1992 the publication was sued for outing the famous Aussie Jason Donovan and questioning his sexual orientation. However its loyal readers helped raise £300,000 with donations called the ‘Lemon Aid fund’ to pay the court costs. Luckily The Face managed to overcome this and through the rest of the 1990s introduced the world to some groundbreaking talent such as: Inez Van Lamsweerde, Steven Klein, Craig McDean, Jeurgen Teller and David LaChapelle. Although the magazine no longer runs, it has been added to the permanent collection at the Design Museum in London and was featured in the 2013 V&A Postmodern exhibition Club to Catwalk.
Fragmentation
Typically used in postmodern literature, this term can be used in a much broader sense also. Fragmentation signifies the breaking rather than building up of information; the process of forming a structure that conveys a hidden or subliminal message rather than an obvious message to its audience.
JeanFrancoisLyotard
Jean Francois Lyotard is as essential to the postmodern movement as Sunday brunch and Topshop hauls are to ‘fashionista instagrammers’… maybe not quite as much but you get the gist. As a French philosopher and theorist, Lyotard introduced the idea of the Postmodern Condition in the highly imaginative titled 1979 book The Postmodern Condition: A Report on Knowledge. Here he states “ Simplifying to the extreme, I define postmodern as incredulity towards metanarratives.” To expand upon this, basically Lyotard believed that postmodernism shows that there is no universal truth or reason to anything anymore, everything is formed of smaller narratives rather than a grand narrative; allowing scope for interpretation.
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LadyGaga
With an army of Little Monsters behind her, Lady Gaga is forever reinventing herself and image. Often adorned in eclectic outfits, she is a fashion icon and muse of the 21st century. *See J.C de Castalbajac
Gallianoism
A slang term coined to define the work of John Galliano, one of the most prominent postmodern designers. Galliano utilises techniques of pastiche and bricolage to enlighten the fashion industry and its avid followers. His S/S 1997 Haute Couture collection for Dior fused Sudanese dinka beading with couture historicism from the Edwardian and Victorian periods; resulting in tribal evening gowns. Renowned for his love of the past, Galliano merges different time periods with the present to create something completely unique and puts into question the relevance of modernity and postmodernity.
GarethPugh
Gareth Pugh has brought everything from Gothic Punk to BDSM to Klaus Nomi into his collections, playfully incorporating them into his dark dark fantasy. His adoration for performance art and club scenes are evident in his fashion films where he collaborates with the film genius Ruth Hogben. Together they have digitalized fashion and brought it up a notch or 50, showcasing film as the modern alternative to the catwalk and creating spectacle. *See Spectacle
GraceJones
Grace Jones in the Maternity Dress by Jean Paul Goude is one of the most postmodern visuals; in fact it was this image that was selected to herald the V&A postmodern exhibition advertising material. The musician and studio 54 regular featured in many of Goude’s work, whilst he would consult her on her image, direct her music videos, create her album covers and choreograph her live stage performances. Grace Jones crossed the gender boundaries with her masculine style of dressing and even influenced the cross-dressing movement during the 1980s.
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NIGGER ARABESQUE, NYC, 1978 Jean Paul Goude
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“Models are there to look like mannequins, not like real people. Art and illusion are supposed to be fantasy.� Grace Jones
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Hats
As hats have been worn for thousands of years, their bank of styles is enormous, allowing designers to constantly update and reintroduce them into the present. Designers such as: Piers Atkinson, Phillip Treacy and Stephen Jones are famous for their eclectic millinery work. Successfully transforming headpieces into conceptual works of art through the addition of cherries, lobsters, neon lights and diet coke cans etc. etc.
Hollywood
Take The Great Gatsby for instance, F.Scott Fitzgerald’s’ literary masterpiece was considered modern, yet Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 reinterpretation screams postmodern. Both tell the same story, yet add in: Prada flapper dresses, Tiffany jewellery, Leonardo Dicaprio and a soundtrack by Jay Z et voila you’re left with a very visual postmodern love story. The film industry constantly satires previous movies, whether this indicates a nostalgic yearning or simply because they are running out of new material is questionable.
AndreasHuyssen
In After the Great Divide, Huyssen argues that postmodernism cannot be regarded as a radical break with the past, as it is deeply indebted to that other trend within the culture of modernity – the historical avant-garde. This idea is very postmodern, as the present has to utilise the past to move forward and innovate, nothing should be forgotten.
Hybrid
Simply a product or item composed of different elements.
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The Great Gatsby 2013 Baz Luhrmann
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Iconoclast
Although the dictionary definition means somebody who attacks and seeks to overthrow traditional or popular ideas and institutions, within the fashion industry the term is used more lightheartedly. In 2009, Miuccia Prada launched the collaborative series ‘The Iconoclasts’, where she collaborated with fashion stylists and costume designers to interpret Prada collections and introduce the brand in their vision.
i-D
Similar in style to The Face, this magazine incorporates innovation through its design, layout and content. The iconic logo, when turned upside down is a smiley winking emoticon, which is unfailingly mirrored by their front cover models. One of its most recognizably postmodern covers was the August 1985 Art Issue, styled by William Faulkner, designed by Terry Jones and photographed by Nick Knight.
Intertextuality
Similar to pastiche, this key postmodern term means cultural referencing between signs. It is even more relevant nowadays as it involves more than one media, perhaps that media studies course at college doesn’t seem that bad an idea now? *see Pastiche
IsabellaBlow
An iconic and eccentric lady with a tragic life, Alexander McQueen once described her as ‘a cross between a Billinsgate fish wife and Lucretia Borgia’. Her love hate relationship with McQueen has been widely documented and presents the dichotomous relationship between muse and genius. After her death, he dedicated an entire collection to her labeled “La Dame Bleue”, inspired by her favourite things, for Isabella Blow no day was a dress-down day.
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Burning Down the House 1996 David LaChapelle
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Japan
Nihonjinron is a body of discourse that relates to “Japanism” and its cultural difference as a whole. From Cosplayer girls to Lolitas, Japan contains so many different fashion subcultures that it is hard to determine exactly how many actually exist, there is no country elsewhere where fashion is more progressive. But one thing is certain, although they are mimicking other cultures; these people live by their subculture groups and perfect every last detail. The magazine Fruits document the Harajuku district in Tokyo and has gained global recognition. But just don’t go looking for any Harajuku girls…they don’t actually exist, apart from in Gwen Stefani’s mind.
CharlesJencks
Essential writer on postmodern theory, The Story of Postmodernism breaks a lot of unanswered questions down. He strongly disagrees with Jean Francois Lyotard over the end of metanarratives; deeming the postmodern era was their proliferation not their demise.
Anti du jour
Anti ‘what is current or fashionable’
JuergenTeller
Juergen Teller’s style of photography encompasses satire and the notion of celebrity, his images often contain underlying messages which are there to be interpreted by the viewer. Whether his use of celebrity and media is to mock the industry or adhere to it is questionable, but his technique is undoubtedly postmodern. Teller’s relationship with brands such as Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood are striking. From capturing naked shots of Vivienne to creating advertising campaigns for Marc featuring a carrier bag and Victoria Beckham, his work is always instantly recognisable. The Tate Modern Director, Chris Dercon denotes “Juergen has always had a taste for the zeitgeist.”
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TheKardashianfamily
A family born from the media obsessed reality culture we live in today, the marmite of the 21st century? Whether you love them or hate them, the Kardashians have built an empire through their actions, appearances and as***
KarlLagerfeld
“In a big part of the world, people cannot read French or English – but are great in remembering signs,” Lagerfeld once said, referring to the classic double ‘c’ logo, which has undoubtedly played a major role in transforming Chanel from modest fashion house into a global empire. Every season he updates the typically iconic Chanel pieces of bourgeois sensibility such as the quilted bag, pearl necklace and tweed jacket. Transforming it through the addition of conflicting colours and add ons such as zips, rips and graffiti. Even his persona is postmodern, a man constantly in monochrome uniform, who spurred the creation of ‘The Karl Lagerfeld Diet and most importantly has made it cool to give your pets their very own social media pages, all hail Choupette.
JeffKoons
“I believe in advertisement and media completely, my art and my personal life are based in it.” This American artist is best known for his trick of converting ordinary mundane objects into fashionable art. Koons’ outlandish sculptures and designs have split many opinions, are they pieces of art history or just cultural kitsch? Whatever you think, this man has successfully explored and merged the art world with our consumer culture, resulting in stainless steel balloon dogs and a pseudo-Baroque sculpture of Micheal Jackson and his pet chimp.
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Balloon Dog Versailles 2008 Jeff Koons
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DavidLaChapelle
Every photograph of David LaChapelle has some form of underlying message or narrative; tackling issues of sex, gender, race and religion. Essentially the most postmodern contemporary photographer of the generation, LaChapelle combines different elements from history to create contextually rich visuals, which are open to interpretation by the viewer. Some of his most iconic work includes: American Jesus, Amanda Lepore as Andy Warhol’s Marilyn, The House at the End of the World and the Rape of Africa. Alongside being a photographer, he also has the job of advertising promoter, in 1999 he famously shot Lil Kim for Interview magazine. Naked and poised as a 50s pin-up, she was covered in the Louis Vuitton logo, was this about sexual objectification of the female body or pure marketing genius? That is what David LaChapelles’s photographs do, get you thinking and questioning yourself and each other.
LasVegas
Probably the most postmodern city in the world; a place of escapism situated in the Nevada desert. It merges iconic landmarks across the world with excess, lights and gambling; a consumption heaven.
LeighBowery
Leigh Bowery was not only the founder of the Tranimal drag movement (An animalistic and postmodern spin on drag) but one of the most influential and avant-garde artists throughout the 1980s and 1990s. His iconic image inspired creative geniuses such as: Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Lady Gaga, David LaChapelle and Lucien Freud.
Lolita
One of the most recognizable Japanese subcultures to have gained global popularity, the Lolita references the dress of the Victorian era. It is thought to have come from a reaction to the growing exposure of skin and nudity in society, thus the number one goal of any Lolita is modesty. There are four types of Lolita to choose from: Gothic, Sweet, Classic and Punk. *see Japan
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“The Rape of Africa“ 2009 David LaChapelle
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Madonna
As someone who repeatedly reinvents herself, Madonna is essentially a postmodern pop star. Her relationship with Jean Paul Gaultier elevated her even further with the iconic cone bra and corset. Madonna is a symbol of rebellion, for example her wearing a crucifix isn’t to show her religious nature, but to misappropriate an object with traditional significance.
MetaNarrative
Literally meaning a grand narrative or universal belief, a Meta-narrative is thought to be a comprehensive explanation of historical experience or knowledge. The postmodern theorist Jean Francois Lyotard, believes that in the postmodern era there is no longer any single metanarrative, instead comprising of smaller multiple narratives. This theory allows for more subjective viewpoints and a more liberated society, no longer governed by solely one grand narrative or belief. *see Jean Francois Lyotard
Mini-crini
Inspired by the Russian ballet Petrushka, Vivienne Westwood launched her 1985 collection labeled ‘Mini-Crini’. It combined the tutu with a form of the Victorian Crinoline, attempting the controversial aim of being sexy and childish at the same time.
JeanBaptisteMondino
A French photographer and music video director who has worked alongside artists such as Madonna, Bjork and David Bowie, bringing their hyper-real concepts to life through film. Mondino is loved by the fashion industry, working for major brands such as Chanel, Dior, John Galliano and Dolce&Gabbana. He even generated the very originally labeled genre; ‘Mondino-esque,’ throughout the 90s meaning sexy, chic, stylish and irreverent!
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NewRomantic
Also referred to as the era of the ‘Blitz Kids’ this was a Pop-Cultural movement from 1979-1981 that was heavily inspired by eclecticism and the English Romantic period. Thought of as a reaction to punk, it gained instant recognition from musicians such as Boy George and Adam and the Ant and flourished in London nightclubs. Whilst its emergence tactfully coincided with Vivienne Westwood’s pirate collection, featuring key characteristics of the movement.
HelmutNewton
Alongside Guy Bourdin, Newton’s sexualised images made the female form a key component to his photography. He crossed cultural barriers and addressed the issue of the male gaze and female emancipation, as controversial as it was Helmut Newton crossed the line of taboo and into the postmodern world of freedom and self-expression.
Nineties
The decade for postmodernism and fashion, everything was becoming more experimental, less restricted and more media-orientated. There was a major dichotomy within the industry, should we keep the Versace mantra ‘If you’ve got it flaunt it?’ and excess of the 1980s or move forward to the new wave of deconstructed minimalism, heroin chic and postmodernism? Tough choice.
*see Comme des Garcons
Nostalgia
Often people believe postmodernism is a form of nostalgia, echoing the past longingly. This is just another cliché; similar to retro-chic and terms of that sartorial nature, whose misguided teachings undermine the notion that postmodernity is fundamentally a form of innovation and individualism.
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Obesity
In 2014 health officials deemed it unacceptable when Jeremy Scott adorned his A/W collection with the Mcdonalds logo. According to them, this iconic visual signifier would create over familiarity between the public and the fast food chain. Thus causing children in particular to be more likely to go and indulge, suggesting that they fall victim to advertising and lose all manner of self-control‌as if.
Orientalism
Orientalism is essentially nothing new; the west has been referencing eastern culture for the past 500 years, however the way we incorporate it is very postmodern. Whether it is a sari, obi belt or even dressing gown, elements of the east have influenced contemporary culture enormously. In 1912, Paul Poiret made day dresses in various Chinese floral fabric, whilst in 2007 John Galliano’s Haute Couture collection for Dior combined the splendor of Madame Butterfly with the structural shapes of origami.
Outofthisworld
Designers such as Rodarte, Gareth Pugh, Acne and Mara Hoffman have all looked to outer space for previous collections. Taking inspiration from the Star Wars franchise, A/W 2014 saw Laura and Kate Mulleavy transform Rodarte evening gowns with prints of Yoda, Darth Vader and Luke Skywalker. Whether this was a form of catwalk spectacle for the most Instagram likes or whether they were actually die-hard fans is debatable.
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Rodarte A/W 2014
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Parody
A humorous or satirical imitation utilised by artists and writers, sometimes referred to as spoof, particularly within the film industry. For example, Austin Powers is a complete parody of the 1960s. Whereas in the fashion industry, streetwear brands such as Brian Lichtenberg have been parodying designer brands. By playing on their infamous slogans and logos, we have seen clothing and accessories adorned with phrases such as ‘Aint Laurent without Yves’ and ‘Giraunchy’. *see Zoolander
Pastiche
A key term which means to imitate the work of another artist or time period, unlike parody, pastiche celebrates the work of another respectfully, rather than mockingly. Yves Saint Laurent employed this postmodern technique with the 1965 Mondrian collection, inspired by the paintings of the abstract artist Piet Mondrian. This is perhaps one of the most practiced techniques of postmodernism and is heavily relied upon within contemporary culture.
AnnaPiaggi
Best known for her work at Vogue Italia, the eccentric Anna Piaggi glorified the double page spread, creating contextual and fashion montages. Her habit of collecting diversified not only her work, through a historical context, but also her sense of style. The V&A held an exhibition in 2006 in retrospect of her; called Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology it informed visitors that she owned precisely 2,865 dresses and 265 pairs of shoes. This explains why she never wore the same outfit twice. Her dress aesthetic could often be interpreted as a form of performance art, wherever she went she made an impact.
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“I am a Post-Pop
popular culture, I
current day myths
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p Artist. Around 2008, celebrity became the currency. Being interested in decided to construct a celebrity. I built my celebrity, Pandemonia, out of
s and symbols, like, forever young, shiny, blonde glamour, etc.�
Pandemoniadoll
The alter-ego of a middle aged male artist, Pandemonia is a blow-up doll that graces fashion parties, events and FROWs.
Punk
From safety pins and tartan to the Sex Pistols and Vivienne Westwood, Punk has been seen as a form of rebellion since the 1970s. Working class teenagers, illustrating angst, anger and animosity through their provocative sartorial choices, originally glorified it as a method of rebellion against the establishment. This was heightened when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Mclaren brought it into mainstream fashion through their Sex boutique on the Kings Road in the 70s. Nowadays punk is a lot more mainstream and even deemed highly fashionable, it was elected as the theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute benefit in 2013, aptly named Punk: Chaos to Couture. The punk movement features a diverse array of ideologies and has spurred the creation of New Wave Punk, Cyberpunk and Steampunk. *see Vivienne Westwood
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Queen
The royal family has consistently been commercialised through contemporary culture and their relationship amongst it. From Queen Elizabeth’s face being printed on Vivienne Westwood God Save the Queen T-shirts, to Kate Middleton’s obsession with Reiss, Pippa Middleton’s bottom and Prince Harry’s Las Vegas liaisons, we are a nation of royalists. The media has legitimized this obsession even further, allowing us to pry into every consumer aspect of their life.
Quintessentially
Literally meaning the pure and essential essence of something, the perfect embodiment to be taken at face value. Not a fashionable example but Pimms, Wimbledon and Afternoon Tea are often referred to as ‘Quintessentially British’.
Quirky
Quirky is just another one of those overused terms coined by people who often try and dress different yet doing so with full self-awareness, similar to geek chic, retro chic, wearing two different shoes at the same time chic etc etc.
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Rebellion
The universal belief that postmodernism stemmed from a reaction against modernism.
RetroChic
Making nostalgia cool since 1970‌
Rucksack
Gone are the days when the rucksack or backpack, whatever you’d like to call it, was solely used for budget travellers or book carriers. Chanel has recently transformed it from a modest utilitarian accessory into a four-figure highly lusted after bag, alongside other designers such as Mulberry, MCM, Givenchy and Alexander Wang to name a few. The commercialisation of the rucksack has made it accessible for various different subcultures, and the plethora of styles on offer has allowed freedom for interpretation, wiping away any prior connotations of geekiness.
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JeremyScott
“I don’t think the distinction between high and low culture exists any more,” he says in his soft, considered Missouri tones. “McDonald’s, Barbie - they’re all icons, recognisable from London to Timbuktu.” * Taken from an interview with The Telegraph November 2014. The postmodern prince of fashion, Scott has consistently created outlandish and commercial clothing, rich in social and cultural semiotics. He has a distinct pop culture aesthetic which is evident in everything he does; from his original line to Adidas collaboration, Katy Perry tour costumes and now role as creative director of Moschino. Stars such as Beyonce and Miley Cyrus wear his designs; even Karl Lagerfeld loves him, stating that Jeremy Scott is the only designer who could ever replace him at Chanel. *see Barbie
RafSimons
Spring/Summer 2003 was one of the most influentially postmodern collections Raf Simons has ever created. Consumed was based upon a rejection of the superficial and focus on positive fragmentation. Featuring a range of prints, signs and slogans, this collection echoed the traces of our consumer culture and placed importance on imperfection.
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Slogan
Probably the bread and butter of postmodern fashion, slogans create instant public recognition and familiarity. Since the 1980s, the designer Katherine Hamnett has used t-shirts as a vehicle to spread social messages to the public; this was her attempt at political activism. Hamnett’s Choose Life slogan was subtly directed to dissuade suicide and drug addiction, however George Micheal attracted a whole new audience for it by wearing it in the music video of Wake me up before you go go. Illustrating the very fact that slogans are subjective to the viewer and the media can affect the message they want to convey.
*see Parody
Spectacle
Designers place a great deal of importance on the way we view their collections, employing every technique possible to create a show for the audience. This theatrical way of presenting fashion gives them added value, with a change in context the garment be seen with new perspective and gain a different feel to it.
Chanel A/W 2014 70
‘Consumed’ 2003, Raf Simons
“Raf Simons S/S 2003, probably the most influential show of all time. Or at least, it’s had the most impact on designers of late. You know that quote about The Velvet Underground: ‘They only sold 30,000 copies of their first album, but everyone who bought one of those 30,000 copies started a band’.” dazeddigital.co.uk
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TakashiMurakami
Focusing on Japan’s low culture, Takashi Murakami’s artistic style has created the moniker ‘Superflat’, which theorizes the Japanese 2d imagery evident in Japanese manga and anime that he draws inspiration from in his own work. Blurring the line between high art and commercialism, Murakami has collaborated with artists such as Kanye West and Pharrell Williams, alongside the brands Louis Vuitton and Issey Miyake.
TheSimpsons
This long-running American series regularly reinterprets and satires different time periods, events, celebrity culture and iconic figures. In 2012 the Italian artist Alexsandro Palombo cemented the fame of : Karl Lagerfeld, Grace Coddington, Alber Elbaz and Anna Wintour by turning them into those loveable yellow characters.
Trickle-DownTheory
In 1904 Georg Simmel applied Thorstein Veblen’s Trickle Down Theory to the fashion industry. Theorizing that the lower classes imitate the clothing and semiotics of the upper classes to fundamentally achieve upward socio-economic mobility. Thus innovations and trends trickle downwards from upper to lower classes, with the former paving the way. However is his theory even relevant in contemporary culture anymore? Definitely not
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Blossoming Flowers in This World and the Land of Nirvana ,2013 Takashi Murakami
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Ugly
Ugly is subjective to the viewer, postmodernism is subjective to the viewer. Essentially there is no right or wrong to either, as each opinion can change or alter according to the context it is given in.
Upinyourface
Brash, Vulgar, Extreme‌these adjectives have all been used to describe postmodern fashion. Postmodernism is a very confident movement, it requires self-assurance to go against the median and do things differently‌suggesting it is not for the wall flowers.
Urban
Postmodernism is fundamentally an urban concept, it is legitimised by the media and consumer culture, which are also in effect byproducts of the urban lifestyle.
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WalterVanBeirendonck
An original member of the Antwerp 6, Walter Van Beirendonck doesn’t shy away from current political and social issues, highlighting them through his collections. The attendees at his SS90 show all received newspaper invitations called Worldwide Walter, which featured a front page that read, “ Fashion is Dead! Who killed fashion? Rape or sex murder?” Inside he went on to mock himself. As a designer, Beirendonck has innovated the fashion system, yet criticised it along the way. He has championed genderless fashion and made bold statements through his use of slogan and design styles, consistently using red thread in his collections to express the importance of ‘Safe Sex’.
VeraChytilova
As she once said “I have no desire to cuddle my audience,” Vera Chytilova’s films were avant-garde satires of life. Named the ‘First Lady of Czech Cinema’, her best-known film Daisies is spontaneous and stylistic, and a reaction against social hypocrisy. Although not as successful in her later years, Chytilova’s films still proved just as controversial, her 1990s film The Inheritance or Fuckoffguysgoodday was a satirical critique of consumerism.
Victoriana
From trussed busts to crinoline to bustles, the Victorian era continues to inspire fashion designers. Alexander McQueen often referenced the period through his designs before he died, and Sarah Burton has kept this alive. Her A/W 2015 collection conveyed traces of the classically coiffed Gibson Girl hairstyle, set against Victorian lace and dark romantic colour palettes. *see Gallianoism
Vulgarity
Nothing seems too controversial for us anymore, sex and shock sell. *see Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
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“In Paris people talk about the Kleenex mentality. Something is used for one or seasons and then thrown away. That’s dreadful. But on the other hand if I don’t clothes in magazines, I can’t help feeling that they simply don’t exist. A collectio to be consumed, has to turn up in fashion reports, has to be displayed ...”
Walter van Beir
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two t see my on has
rendonck
Dream the World Awake 2011 Nick Knight and Walter Van Beirendonck
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AndyWarhol
‘In the future, everyone will be world-famous for 15 minutes’, Andy Warhol debuted the concept of pop art, exploring celebrity and consumer culture through his artwork. His studio ‘The Factory’ was a famous hotspot for distinguished talent, Bohemians, drag queens and Hollywood celebrities. Alongside this he founded Interview magazine in 1969 alongside the british journalist John Wilcock. As Warhol himself put it, “Once you ‘got’ pop, you could never see a sign the same way again. And once you thought pop, you could never see America the same way again.” Although he died in 1985 his legacy still continues, Gianni Versace created a collection which featured Andy Warhol prints, meanwhile David LaChapelle’s work resonates his pop art style and continues to explore the role of consumerism and art.
VivienneWestwood
Punk was an early manifestation of deconstructionist fashion, which is an important component of late twentieth-century postmodern style and is incongruous with Vivienne Westwood designs. 10 years before Jean Paul Gaultier designed Madonna’s conical bra and made underwear into outerwear, Westwood had already done it. As if designing isn’t enough work, she is also an avid political activist and campaigner, she will often interplay each, utilising her skills most efficiently. Her collections reference various time eras and most frequently revive the corset. *see Queen
BernardWillhelm
After working alongside Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, the German fashion designer Bernard Willhelm began his own line in the early 2000s. Defying categorisation, he showed adoration for mixing high fashion with the absurd and created genderless clothing.
ElizabethWilson
Elizabeth Wilson is a key fashion writer who has explored postmodernism’s role within the fashion industry. In Cultural Theory and Popular Culture: A Reader, Volume 1 she discusses the positive and negative effects it has had: “Today, there is a blurring between mainstream and countercultural fashions: all fashion has become ‘stagey’, self-conscious about its own status as a discourse, about its irrationality, about its message.”
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Soup Cans 1962 Andy Warhol
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ClaireWilcox
Claire Wilcox is a senior fashion curator at the Victoria & Albert museum, who has written many fashion theory books such as Radical Fashion and Modern Fashion in Detail. Alongside curating and writing, she also devised Fashion in Motion in 1999, which were live fashion shows presented in museum galleries. More recently, Claire Wilcox curated the highly anticipated Savage Beauty exhibition at the V&A, which showcases the extraordinary talent of Alexander McQueen.
Xenophilia
Despite its resonance to a prescription pill, it actually means to have affection for unknown and foreign places, objects and people. Alexander McQueen was a well-known Xenophiliac.
Xxx
Extremity of clothing, heavy reliance on interpretation and the extreme fact society is governed by the media means postmodern clothing remains boundary-less. It will go to any extreme to innovate and keep the fashion industry moving forward.
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YayoiKusama
Referred to as ‘The Polka-dot Princess’ Yayoi Kusama is best known in the fashion industry for her striking red wig and work as a conceptual Japanese artist and writer. In the early 60s she was a fixture amongst the New York avant-garde such as Andy Warhol, Claes Oldenburg and George Segal. Recognised as one of the most important artists to come out of Japan, Yayoi Kusama used her artistic medium to illustrate psychological and sexual content. Stating that her inspirations are unconscious musings, every idea comes straight from her mind “Picasso painted thousands of pictures in one style, whereas my art covers every kind of idea.” Kusamas iconic polka dots have also attracted the attention of Marc Jacobs, who collaborated with her in 2012 for Louis Vuitton.
YouthCulture
Youths are often the first to adapt to new fashion subcultures; perhaps it is the abundance of evolving hormones that spur these decisions, or the fact that younger people are less afraid of change. Either way, today most trends begin from street style and youth culture, demonstrating a trickle-up theory, not a trickle down theory, sorry George Simmel. *See Trickle Down Theory
Ythehellnot?
I think this says it all…
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Seoul Fashion Week 2014
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Zoolander
This 2001 American comedy is a complete parody of the fashion industry, and features cameo appearances from a plethora of well known figures such as: Tom Ford, Gwen Stefani, Donald Trump, Karl Lagerfeld, Paris Hilton and Victoria Beckham to name a few. The film includes the fashion line “Derelicte”, described by one of the characters as “a fashion, a way of life inspired by the very homeless, the vagrants, the crack whores that make this wonderful city so unique”. This was a parody of John Galliano’s Spring 2000 collection. The idea of contemporary culture crossovers is nothing new in our postmodern era, to promote Zoolander 2 Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson took to the catwalk for Valentino’s Fall 2015 collection in full character, embedding this very fashionable crossover 14 years later.
Zeitgeist
The spirit of the time, in contemporary culture there is no set zeitgeist anymore. We are a multiple zeitgeist nation.
ZiggyStardust
Sometimes celebrities are often too fabulous that they need an alter-ego, another self to promote their brand or image even further. The idea of having multiple personas is an embodiment of our postmodern culture, think Sasha Fierce, Borat and Lady Gaga’s Jo Calderone.
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Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson Valentino A/W 2015
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Reference Guide & Further Reading Material
The next couple of pages include a selection of books that have inspired and helped me to create this fashion dictionary. There is a mixture of contextual, fashion and photography books alongside some magazines. Everything selected is related to postmodernism, either directly or indirectly.
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L-R 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.
Fashion Algebra, Anna Piaggi Domus Heaven to Hell, David LaChapelle The Fashion System, Roland Barthes Fashion Theory: A Reader, Malcolm Barnard Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970-1990, Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt The Post-Modern Reader, Charles Jencks Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness, Caroline Evans Alexander McQueen, Savage Beauty, Andrew Bolton Fruits The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman Post-Modernism: A Graphic Guide to Cutting-Edge Thinking, Richard Appignanesi Fashioning Japanese Subcultures, Yuniya Kawamura Fashion Game Book: A World History of 20th Century Fashion, Florence Muller Christ to Coke: How Image Becomes Icon, Martin Kemp Radical Fashion, Claire Wilcox Minimalism and Fashion: Reduction in the Postmodern Era, Elyssa Dimant Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion, Akiko Fukai ‘As seen in Blitz’ Fashioning ‘80s Style, Iain R.Webb No Fashion, Please!: Photography Between Gender and Lifestyle, Gerald A.Matt Nostalgia in Vogue, Eve MacSweeney Isabella Blow, Martina Rink Fashion and Music, Janice Miller Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Mike Featherstone 99
Index A
D
Abstract 17 Acne 57 Adam and the Ant 55 Adidas 69 Alter-Ego 63,93 Ambiguous 9 Anime 73 Antoinette, Marie 9 Antwerp ‘6’ 79 Aqua 13 Architecture 9,23,27 Art 17,61,63,83,85,89 Atkinson, Piers 17 Avant-Garde 17,23,79,89
Dercon, Chris 43 ‘Derelicte’ 93 Design Museum 29 Dicaprio, Leonardo 35 Dinka 31 Dior 9,21,31,53,57 Dolce&Gabanna 53 Doll 13,17,63 Donovan, Jason 29 Drag 49 Dudzeele, Carlyne Cerf de 21,22/23 Dunst, Kirsten 9
B
E
Balloon Dog 46/47 Barbie 13,69 Barnard, Malcolm 13,19 Baroque 45 Barthes, Roland 13 Baudrillard, Jean 13 BDSM 31 Beckham, Victoria 43,93 Beirendonck, Walter Van 79,80/81 Bjork 53 Blow, Isabella 39, 40/41 Borgia, Lucretia, 39 Bowie, David 53 Bricolage 14,31 Brody, Neville 29 Burton, Sarah 79
Eclecticism 27,31,55 Elbaz, Albar 73 Elmgreen & Dragset 9,27 Eurotrash 27 Explicit 27 Extreme 77,87
C Castelbajac, J.C 17 Chanel 45,53,67 Cherries 35 Choupette 5 Chytilova, Vera 79 Coddington, Grace 73 Comme des Garcons 17 Consumer/Consumerism 17,27,69,77,83 Consumption 17 Coppola, Sofia 9 Corset 53,83 Costume 9 Crane, Diana 17 Crinoline 53,79 Customisation 21
F The Face 29,39 Facebook 14 The Factory 83 Faulkner, William 39 Fitzgerald, F.Scott 35 Fragmentation 29,69 Fruits Magazine 43
G Galliano, John 21,31,49,53,57,93 Gallianoism 31 Gaultier, Jean Paul 27,53,83 Gender 19,31,49 Gibson Girl 79 Givenchy 67 Gothic 31,49 Goude, Jean Paul 31,32/33 The Great Gatsby 35,36/37 Guess 21
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H
M
Hamnett, Katherine 70 Harajuku Girls 43 Hats 35 Heterogeneity 19 Hogben, Ruth 31 Hollywood 35,83 Huyssen, Andreas 35 Hybrid 35
Madonna 53,83 McDean, Craig 29 McDonalds 57,69 McQueen, Alexander 9,10/11,39,49,79,83,87 Media 45,55,70,77 Message 29,49,70,83 Meta-Narrative 43,53 Mini-Crini 53 Minimal 17,53 Modern 27,35,87 Modernism 31 Mondino, Jean Paul 53 Mondrian, Piet 61 Moschino 17,69 Murakami, Takashi 73
I Icon/Iconic 13,17,29,39,49,69,89 Iconoclast 39 i-D Magazine 29,39 Innovate 35,55,73,79,87 Interpretation 9,29,87 Intertextuality 39
J Jackson, Micheal 45 Jacobs, Marc 43,89 Japan 43,49,73,89 Jay Z 35 Jencks, Charles 43 Jones, Grace 31,32/33 Jones, Stephen 35
K The Kardashians 45 Katrantzou, Mary 9 Kawakubo, Rei 17 Kings Road 63 Koons, Jeff 45,46/47 Kusama, Yayoi 89
L LaChapelle, David 49,50/51,83 La Dame Bleue 39 Lady Gaga 17 Lagerfeld, Karl 9,45,69,93 Las Vegas 49,65 Lepore, Amanda 49 Lichtenberg, Brian 61 Logo 19,39,49,61 Lolita 43,49 Luhrmann, Baz 35
N Narrative 29,49,53 New Look (Dior) 9,21 New Romantic 55 Newton, Helmut 55 Nineties 53,55 Nomi, Klaus 31 Nostalgia 35,55 Nudity 27,49
O Obesity 57 Object 13,45,53 Oldenburg, Claes 89 Orientalism 57 Origami 57 Owens, Rick 9
P Pandemonia Doll 62/63 Parody 61,93 Pastiche 31,39,61 Persona 45,93 Petrushka 53 Piaggi, Anna 61 Poret, Paul 57 Political 70,79,83 Prada 27,35,39 Pugh, Gareth 31,57 Punk 49,55,63,83
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Q Queen 65 Quintessentially 65 Quirky 27,65
R Radical 35,87 ‘Rape of Africa’ 49,50/51 Reaction 49 Rebellion 17,53,63,67 Reiss 65 Retro chic 55,65,67 Rodarte 57,58/59 Rucksack 67
S Satire 9,35,43,61 Scott, Jeremy 15,57,69 Semiotics 13,69,73 Sex 49,79 Sexual 29,49,89 Shock 9,79 Sign 17,39,45,69 Simmel, Georg 73,89 Simons, Raf 21,69,71 The Simpsons 73 Simulacra and Simulation 13 Slogan 21,61,69,70 Society 13,49,53,87 Spectacle 27,31,70 Status 14 Stefani, Gwen 43,93 Stiller, Ben 93 Structure 29,57 Studio 54 31 Subculture 43,89 Subjective 27,53,77 Superflat 73 Symbol 9,13,19,53,63,79
T Teller, Juergen 29,43 Texas 27 Theatrical 9 Tiffany&co 35 Topshop 14,29 Traditional 17,21,53 Treacy, Phillip 35 Trickle Down Theory 73,89 Tv 27 Twitter 14
U Ugly 77 Underwear 84 Uniform 45 Unique 31 Universal 53,67 Unknown 87 Urban 77 Utilitarian 67
V Valentino 93 Van Lamsweerde, Inez 29 Veblen, Thorstein 73 Versace 55,83 Victoria & Albert Museum 61,87 Victorian 9,31,49,79 Viewer 27,43,49,77 Vision 17,39 Visual 35,49,57 Vogue 9 Vuitton, Louis 49,73,89 Vulgarity 21,25,77,79
W Warhol, Andy 49,83,89 West, Kanye 73 Western 17 Westwood, Vivienne 43,49,55,63,65,83,84/85 Wilcock, John 83 Wilcox, Claire 87 Willhelm, Bernard 83 Wilson, Elizabeth 83 Wimbledon 65 Wintour, Anna 21,73,83
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X Xenophilia 87
Y Yoda 57 Youth Culture 89 YSL 61
Z Z-Coil trainers 93 Zeitgeist 43,93 Zoolander 93
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