Final Year Project

M O O I

Accessible lingerie Est. 2020

SID: 201077192 Hannah Wood DESN 3370

1

Table of Contents 6.

Bra n d Ov erv iew

22.

The Business

32.

The P r o duct Line

46.

The L aunch Ev ent

58.

The Po dcast

66.

In s tag ram

72.

Tim el ine

01.

The Co nclusio n

01.

The App endix

2

3

Figure. 2

The first thing she adorns in the morning, harbouring the ability to shape the day ahead.

Getting dressed should not be an obstacle.

4

5

Figure. 1

MOOI

Supporting women at every stage.

Getting dressed should not be an obstacle.

Aiming to promote independence, confidence and fearlessness, Mooi is a revolutionary adaptive lingerie brand, redefining inclusivity within the lingerie market. The curated collection combines functionality and comfortability with elegant design to support women to dress independently.

6

7

Figure. 3

The Motivation.

Getting dressed in the morning is an intimate experience allowing women a moment to appreciate their bodies, their strength, and their beauty. Lingerie offers benefits past its initial functionality.

It acts as a foundation for our outfits, sculpting our figure, and providing protection and support throughout the day. The lingerie we choose to adorn can act as an extension of self, harbouring the ability to increase one’s self-concept and mood, further influencing our relationship with our body and within our most intimate relationships. However, for many women with mobility impairments, getting dressed independently can be a daily challenge. Lingerie commonly consists of uncomfortable underwire, scratchy material, and fiddly hook and eye fastenings located at the back of the garment. The intricate designs can result in an increased dependency on a partner

Figure. 4

and reduced confidence in one’s self ability.

8

9

Figure. 5

The Concept An often-overlooked demographic, many women throughout their lifetime will struggle with a form of mobility impairment as a result of a disability, injury, or temporary condition, placing them at an increased risk of suffering from feelings of isolation, loneliness, or depression as a result of their disability.

Although adaptive underwear options are currently available to aid this process, they are often matronly in design, unflattering, and purely functional, without consideration for the wearer’s femininity, form or style.

Understanding the fundamental importance of lingerie within a woman’s wardrobe, Mooi is an adaptive, mid-market lingerie line catered towards the modern woman with restricted mobility. Recognising the intimate relationship lingerie harbours between a woman, her body and her self-image, Mooi believes all women should have access to beautifully designed underwear that empowers their independence and self-confidence. The intimate collection consists of elegantly designed, desirable lingerie featuring unique and discreet magnetic fastenings to ensure confidence when independently dressing, without compromising on style. Composed of a range of styles to suit every personality, the collection will provide a sustainable, stylish and comfortable alternative to the current adaptive underwear options available.

The capsule collection will be exclusively sold as an in-house label within John Lewis & Partners, giving customers access to the line both in-store and via the online website or mobile app. Alongside the product line, Mooi’s marketing strategy will look to empower and celebrate women with mobility impairments.

We are aiming to raise awareness for the unique yet neglected needs of women Figure set. 6

with disabilities. Through the curation of safe physical and digital spaces for our consumers, we aim to pave the way for a more inclusive retail future.

10

11

Visual IDENTITY

Typefaces

Aa Orpheus Pro

ABCDEFGHIJKLMN OPQRSTUVWXYZab cdefghijklmnopqrst uvwxyz1234567890

Upper and lower case lettering. Header 1.

Aa

Primary Logo

M M M O O O O O M O O O I M O M O O I MOOI I II

Sweet Gothic

ABCDEFGHIJKL M N O P Q R S T U V W XYZabcdefghij klmnopqrstuvw xyz1234567890

Upper and lower case lettering. Header 2.

Aa

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N OPQRSTUVWXYZab cdefghijklmnopqrst Orpheus Pro Italic u v w x y z 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 Upper and lower case lettering. Header 1.

Aa

HK Grotesk

Upper and lower case lettering. Main body text.

Corporate Patterns

Secondary Logo

M O O M M M I M M O O M M O

O O O O IIO O I

Accessible lingerie Est. 2020

CMYK: 82 | 57 | 46 | 42 RGB: 47 | 71 | 84

O O O O IO I

I

I

Brand colour Palette

Est. 2020 Est. 2020

Est. 2020 Est. 2020

CMYK: 10 | 29 | 26 | 1 RGB: 229 | 192 | 181

CMYK: 27 | 52 | 66 | 21 RGB: 166 | 116 | 80

12

ABCDEFGHIJKLMN OPQRSTUVWXYZab cdefghijklmnopqrst uvwxyz1234567890

CMYK: 14 | 0 | 45 | 0 RGB: 233 | 252 | 167

13

Figure. 10

Verbal Brand & Social Presence

Empowering.

Liberated.

Celebratory.

Considered.

Educated.

Approachable.

Figure. 11

14

15

Figure 4.

Figure. 7

The CONSUMER The target consumer for Mooi is any women who experience reduced movement or a mobility impairment, temporarily or permanently, causing them difficulty when getting dressed independently. Research shows mobility impairments often occurs later in life, however there is a significant demographic of younger women who also face these challenges. Our line is intended to provide women of any age, at any stage of their life with beautiful lingerie that aids in the process of independent dressing.

16

17

Figure. 8

The MILLENNIAL Creative. Ambitious. Generous.

Our primary consumer for Mooi comprises of women of the Millennial generation, aged between 24 and 39. She is UK based, living in an urban city such as London, Manchester or Bristol, earning around ÂŁ30,000 a year (Rae, 2016; Instant Offices, no date).

She is a socially conscious individual, who’s personal challenges have led her to adopt an activist mindset towards inclusivity and diversity. A creative, ambitious and educated individual, the millennial enjoys experimenting with her style as a form of self expression and act of self care. She enjoys the social activity of shopping with friends at her favourite retailers such as Zara, Topshop or & Other Stories, however the experience often presents a challenge due to her unique needs. Remaining trend driven, her price conscious mindset and environmental concern results in valuing upon quality and design from her clothing. She is willing to invest in timeless fashion that is considerate towards her requirements (Mcgregor, 2018; Macdonald et al, 1994).

Financial security and future uncertainties regarding the environment are large anxieties for this consumer (Mcgregor, 2018). Aware of the prevalence of mental health concerns and its link to social media, this demographic place great importance on personal wellbeing often practicing reduced social media detoxes and reducing screen time. Nevertheless, they are still a predominately online/mobile shopper.

18

19

The BOOMER Confident. Optimistic. Elegant.

Our second consumer is from the Boomer generation, born between 1946-64, they are an affluent and educated individual who is recently retired and situated in suburban Britain.

They prioritise their physical health, independence and happiness, embracing the ageing process and maintaining an optimistic outlook upon life (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014). Having embraced technology, they perceive it as a positive tool allowing them to remain connected with family and friends, monitor their wellbeing and as a form of entertainment. Frequent users of social media platforms, instagram, facebook and youtube, a new demographic of boomer women are using their pages to promote their age positive outlook and unique style to an audience (Wunderman Thompson, 2018).

They have developed a refined fashion sense taking pride in their appearance. They are willing to invest in higher priced, high quality, elegant pieces that compliment their aesthetic, favouring brands such as Cos, Jigsaw or Jaeger (Wunderman Thompson, 2018). Often believing the fashion and beauty industry favours youth, their sense of being left out means they reward brands that market towards their demographic while reflecting their fashion conscious mindset.

Figure. 9

20

21

The BUSINESS

Figure. 12

22

23

Research led approach.

Desirable brand identity.

Prioritise design.

Empowering community.

Supporting all women.

Marketing Aims & Objectives.

Central to the brand's ethos, Mooi aims to empower and support women with mobility restrictions throughout all stages of their life. Our primary goal is to create an innovative and accessible lingerie line that appeals to the modern woman through fusing supportive and functional features with trend-led design. The focus upon the aesthetic of the pieces will act as a point of differentiation to distinguish Mooi from their current competitors within the accessible underwear market. The priority of timeless style is communicated through the curation of an elegant brand identity that any woman would want to invest in. The collection will feature exclusive patterns, designed by our in house designers influenced by lingerie trends, while incorporating dressing aids in a discreet yet functional way.

Through employing an effective marketing strategy we aim to present ourselves as an empowering brand, built on purpose. Educating our primary consumer, as well as the wider public, our dedication to those with disabilities.

Fundamental to the core of the brand is functionality. To ensure consumer confidence, the in depth market, consumer and medical research, both primary and secondary, undertaken during product development will be communicated within the marketing communication strategy. Emphasis upon functionality, comfort and fit will be illustrated. The transparency of this information will ensure consumer trust while further communicating the high-quality features of the underwear to justify the higher pricing strategy.

Through the curation of a lingerie line that empowers women with mobility impairments, Mooi strives to raise awareness towards an underserved demographic, positioning John Lewis & Partners as leaders towards a more inclusive retail future. Consumers with disabilities are understood to be increasingly loyal to brands who acknowledge, and sufficiently cater to their needs. Therefore, the introduction of an in house label dedicated towards women with mobility impairments hopes to correspondingly increase the in-store and online sales of the John Lewis and Partners through expanding their primary consumer base. Furthermore, the integrated omnichannel infrastructure currently employed by John Lewis and Partners ensures numerous points of purchase for the consumer, ensuring a frictionless, flexible experience that can adapt to consumers individual needs.

The curation of a supportive and approachable online and in-store community will be imperative for the success

Figure 13.

of the brand to gain the trust and acknowledgement of consumers. This will be effectively communicated through our verbal brand, social media narrative and marketing communications. Consumers with disabilities increasingly trust product recommendations from their peers and micro influencers who have a closer understanding of their condition. Therefore, the development of a community culture will allow new consumers an organic introduction to the brand.

Figure 14.

24

25

Business model OVERVIEW Figure set 15.

Social Media

Consumer Research

Simplified sizing develpoment

public advertising

print advertising

Consumer Feedback

Marketing Communications

Market Trends

Design Development

Production and Manufacturing

Distribution

Exclusively sold at John Lewis & PArtners

Fabric choice Online

Mobile App

In store

Sizing data analysis

Consumer Feedback 26

Consumer Feedback

Sales data analysis 27

Customer JOURNEY

Figure Set 16.

A positive customer journey is vital in gaining the trust and loyalty of our target audience.

The product line will be stocked in John Lewis and Partners Department stores as well as via their online website and mobile app.

In store the customer will be offered a tactile shopping experience, allowing them to touch and feel the garments before purchase. The product line will be presented as an edited curated collection within the lingerie department, to highlight the elegant design of each piece. On their journey to purchase customers will be offered a complimentary fitting service, delivered by a trained, educated and friendly partner who will provide guidance and assurance regarding the appropriate fit and style of the underwear. They will also be able to educate the customer on the functional benefits of the range. In addition, the fitting services present an opportunity for vital feedback direct from the consumer to influence product development in future collections. Due to limitations on stock, only a limited number of each size and design will be available in store. To reduce customer pain points on their route to purchase, partners will be equipped to help customers buy their correct size and style of underwear via the online app if it is out of stock.

Via the online routes, both the mobile app and website will provide access to the full product range. Each product will be accompanied by a useful description regarding the style, functionality and material composition of each pieces, as well as an easy to use size guide in the form of a simple table and online video. Product reviews will further offer an

Online website & mobile app

In store

Full product range and in depth description.

Tactile shopping experience.

Online virtual fitting appointments.

Edited collection.

Sizing guides and video.

Approachable, educated and friendly staff.

Access to the digital lookbook.

Complimentary fitting service.

Exclusive promotional content.

Omni channel access.

Direct links to podcast and social media accounts.

Launch events.

My John Lewis app data.

My John Lewis app Edition magasine with lookbook insert.

insight into customers positive experiences with the products to reassure customers on their purchase. To offer extra support, there will be an option on each product page for customers to book online virtual appointments with a personal shopper. Finally, both the website and app will provide links to the brands social media accounts, accompanying podcast and digital lookbook for consumers to gain a curated insight into the identity and message behind the brand.

28

29

Product: Innovative and adaptive lingerie line exclusive to John Lewis & Partners.

Focused on function, comfortability and style.

Unique discreet magnetic fastening.

Exclusive brand patterns.

Trend led design Place: In Store, Online, and through the My JL mobile app.

Social Media accounts (Facebook, Instagram and Youtube @Mooi and @ Johnlewisandpartners) Price: Mid - market pricing, premium range within John Lewis pricing architecture.

Promotion: Social Media Accounts (@Mooi and @Johnlewisandpartners) Influencer Marketing Social Media Campaign JLP and Waitrose in house publications Print and Digital Lookbook Industry Media Charity Blogs The Podcast In Store Events People:

Marketing Mix Breakdown

Current John Lewis Staff will undergo further training into customer service

30

for those with disabilities. They will be educated on the product range and the brand philosophy.

Key characteristics: Supportive, approachable, enthusiastic, knowledgable and passionate.

Process: In store fitting service.

Online fitting service via the ‘My John Lewis’ app.

Launch Event workshop, fitting guide and Q&A The Podcast.

Physical Evidence: Department stores will ensure further consideration towards disabled consumers adapting their store environment; ambience, lighting and sound.

Visual brand merchandise.

Brand Packaging.

31

32

The lingerie collection will aim to appeal to women of any age, who prioritise style comfortability and functionality from their lingerie.

Core LINGERIE COLLECTION

Figure 17.

33

MAterial Composition.

Focusing on intimacy and pleasure, Mooi will incorporate skin like materials in the composition of the lingerie line that are light and semi-sheer. The classic illustrative flower design will be embroidered upon each piece.

Recycled Nylon: Composed of 99% regenerated raw materials.

Strong fabric good for lace and mesh designs Lyocell: Form of Rayon, Organic Material, Soft and Breathable Example Composition of Knickers: Gusset (95% Lyocell 5% Elastene) Lace (92% Recycled Nylon 8% Elastene)

The Pricing Strategy.

fuses functionality and style, to aid women with restrictive mobility in

The pricing for the collection will be cost and customer value based, marketed as a mid level exclusive range. The price will refelct the high quality materials, in depth research and innovative design of the collection as relfect JLPs current product offerring.

the process of dressing independently.

Retail Pricing.

Secondary: To raise awareness for the need of adaptive apparel on the

The Athena: Unlined wireless brallette with front clasp RRP. £30

high street, increase sales across all John Lewis & Partners purchasing

The Hera: Unlined wired bra with front clasp RRP. £39

channels, develop a strong brand awareness and product recognition

The Gaia: Low waisted Brazillian Briefs RRP. £10

and increase the positive brand association.

The Iris: High waisted high legged brief (with Stoma Bag Pocket) RRP. £15

Objectives.

Primary: To design an innovative and adaptive lingerie collection that

Core Strategy.

Product development will focus on sparking desire and consideration for the brand through the employment of the core strategies: • Design the collection using in-depth market and medical research.

• Conduct consumer focus groups throughout the product development to ensure sizing, comfortability and functionality is ensured.

• Design a desirable, trend led collection that appeals to the consumer.

• Clearly communicate the innovative and unique product attributes of Mooi’s lingerie to the consumer.

• Create a friendly and supportive brand culture in store and online.

Channels.

• John Lewis Department Stores.

• John Lewis online.

• In house magazine and digital Lookbook.

• Secondary media outlets.

• @Johnlewisandpartners and @Mooi Social Media.

34

35

Product Attributes.

Functionality.

All garments feature unique and discreet gold magnetic fastenings that compliment, rather than distract from the design of each piece.They intend to aid in the process of independent dressing, through the placement at the front and sides of the underwear. This will ensure ease of use by reducing the mobility needed to put on the lingerie for an effortless and confident start to the day. The two clasps easily slot into one another due to the magnetic force and will lie flat against the woman's body for increased comfort.

Comfort.

The assurance of comfort and fit was imperative in the product development. To create a ‘no bra feeling’ whilst ensuring support and lift, we have used featherweight, 4D engineered fabrics with 360 degree stretch and recovery that mimic a second skin. Without sacrificing aesthetic, our exclusive in house designs are printed upon mesh layers for a smoothing effect. To reduce scratching and irritation from labels, the designs will be seamless and smooth, with care and sizing information printed onto the inner back layer of each piece.

Simplified Sizing Strategy.

Women with disabilities are understood to need a wider size range than their able bodied peers.

Therefore, the sizing system employed for the collection will follow a unique number system from 1-10 that will span over a larger than usual size range. The research behind the system will be developed through employing a research-led approach using 3D body scans to develop a data driven simplified size chart that works for all women.The smarter and simplified sizing system should ensure consumer confidence when purchasing online resulting in fewer returns, as well as reducing SKU’s (stock keeping units) and overstock concerns (Fenton et al, 2020). To ensure one size can fit and adapt between multiple cup sizes and body shapes it will rely on hyper-stretch fabric technology.

Figure 19.

36

37

Figure 20.

Figure 21.

Measurements and KPIs. Fulfilment of the primary aim to create an underwear line that helps the consumer dress independently is imperative. Feedback regarding the consumer experience will be gained from analysing online conversation via social media, digital media and print media outlets, product reviews and in store feedback via the complimentary fitting service. Quantitative analytics of the initial sales, online and in-store from the first 18 months after the initial product launch will further indicate the success of the product line.

Results and Impacts.

We expect our lingerie collection will receive a positive reaction from our consumers, members of industry, as well as the media, as a result of our in depth research and product development process. Not only do we expect sufficient sales of the range itself, but through launching within JLP we predict an increase in sales across John Lewis and partners department stores, online website and mobile app. Through employing a strong visual identity to the line it should ensure a strong brand recognition and positive brand association of both JLP and Mooi. Finally, the collection should increase awareness and consideration towards women with disabilities across the industry.

38

39

Figure 22.

Objectives.

To raise brand awareness and spark interest amongst potential customers and the media towards our innovative collection launch to increase the initial sales of the collection.

The LOOKBOOK

Core Strategy.

• Showcase the full collection in an editorial magazine style.

• Convey the brand identity and core philosophy, while educating the reader on the unique product attributes.

Figure 23.

• Digital edition will provide interactive and experiential content, including shop-able links to the JLP website/app and social media.

• The images will provide marketing material for social media channels.

Channels.

• Digital lookbook downloadable from JLP website and will be featured on websites and blogs such as (Refinery 29, Cur8able, vogue.com, Cosmopolitan.com) • The print look book will be an insert placed within in-house publication John Lewis Edition, as well as secondary publications of influence to the target consumer (Vogue, Style on Sunday)

Measurements.

• E-commerce convergence rate.

• Click through analytics from shop-able links.

• Track daily media coverage and conversations online and in print.

• Track social media interaction and conversation.

• Online downloads of lookbook.

• Sales of the collection inshore and online.

40

41

Figure list 24.

Marketing Communications

Distribution Consumer Research

Market Trends

Sizing data analysis

Exclusively sold at John Lewis & PArtners

Simplified sizing develpoment

Fabric choice

Design Development

Community

Consumer Feedback & Product Testing

Finalise Product 42

Online

Production and Manufacturing

Mobile App

In store

Consumer Feedback

Aftercare

Sales data analysis

Supply Chain OVERVIEW 43

Initial Collection Timeline.

Month January

February

Financial Considerations.

Service

Description

March Cost

Description Stage 1: Research Conduct market and trend analysis regarding the design.

Research current adaptive lingerie options on the market and conduct a competitor analysis.

Conduct primary and secondary research into the functional needs of the consumer through focus groups, charity research and surveys.

Begin collecting data for sizing strategy using 3D scanning.

Research high performance fabrics and materials.

Stage 2: Product design and sourcing Develop a discreet magnetic fastening to allow the underwear to help those with mobility impairments.

Design the lingerie range, and accompanying labels and shopping bags.

Design exclusive in house brand patterns.

Source the fabric and materials Source the unique magnetic fastenings.

Consumer and trend research, fabric sourcing, sample production, patternmaking, grading and sizing, product testing.

(Makersrow, 2015)

£3,700

April

Manufacturing and Production

Initial stock units = 100,000 Cost per item: £7.04 average (Vanjosson Design, 2019)

£704,000

May

Stage 3: Testing Conduct numerous focus group to test the product prototype and receive feedback on the pricing strategy.

Transportation and Distribution

From warehouse to retail stores.

100 units = $300 (Sewport, 2020)

£240,000

June

Branding design and Packaging

Graphic design of the brand identity and accompanying packaging and tags and freight for distribution.

(Makersrow, 2015)

£128,680

Stage 4: Finalise product line Reflect on feedback from testing stage Finalise the designs, material selection and prints.

Website Updates

Stock updates and making it accesible for those with disabilities.

(Website Builder Expert, 2019)

£10,000

Staff

Researchers, Fashion Designers, Warehouse Workers, JLP Sales Staff, Managers and Directors.

N/A

Graphic designer, Models, Photographer. Designed in house.

N/A

John Lewis have an in house publication. We expect to print and distribute 250,000 units.

To print 1,000 copies A5 colour 16 page lookbook = £692.50 (Mixam, 2020) Estimate distribution £0.40 per unit (Whang, 2015)

£273,125

Approximate Costing

Approximate cost for Product line and Lookbook.

£1,359,505

Unforeseen Costs

An additional 10% onto approximate costs to cover unforeseen expenses.

135,950.50

Total Costing

Approximate costs + Unforeseen Costs

£1,495,455.50

Research and Development

Lookbook Design Lookbook Print and Distribution

44

July August September October November

Stage 5: Production and distribution Send designs to manufacturer Collect the stock and distribute to John Lewis and Partners warehouses Stock will be distributed into department stores Finalised product line will be shot for look book Look book will be edited by a graphic designer from the Edition magazine Look book will go into print Stage 6: Preperation Re-train staff members on the new brand and fitting service.

Retail environments will be updated with branding features.

Stage 7: Sell the product Lookbook will be distributed.

Collection goes on sale 12th November (UK Accesible Shopping day)

December January

Stage 7: Measuring success Sales analytics will be monitored instore and online Social media interaction will monitored

45

The Launch EVENTS 46

47

Visual Merchandise Inspiration.

Figure set 27.

Objectives.

Primary: To form a brand community through creating an immersive brand experience, while introducing and educating the consumer on our brand philosophy, the product launch and the functional product attributes the collection provides.

Secondary: To generate consumer interest and positive media coverage surrounding the launch of the collection. To raise brand awareness and increase sales across both the new brand and John Lewis & Partners department stores.

Channels.

Events will take place within key department stores across the UK; Oxford Street, London; Trafford center, Manchester; West Quay, Southampton; Edinburgh; Cardiff Key parts of the event will be streamed live via IGTV and Facebook live on both @Mooi and @Johnlewsandpartners Generate press release across digital and print media Influencers social media channels Guests social media channels 48

49

Core Strategy.

Figure 30.

The launch events will focus on facilitating desire and action amongst consumers through creating an immersive and holistic brand experience to introduce Mooi’s product line to the consumer and the press. The events will follow a pop up shop layout within the store environment, to act as a physical space to communicate a visual depiction of the brand ethos and culture. There will be areas dedicated for providing scenes of sharable online content to encourage social media interaction amongst consumers and the press. The key elements of the visual strategy and design will remain consistent across all locations, however small adaptations regarding venue size and store layout will be considered. The complete collection will be available at the events; in all styles, sizes and colour ways. This will allow customers to experience the product line first hand, understanding the functional and comfortable benefits of the collection. In addition, the inshore fitting service will be available.

During the events, engaging activities have been designed to educate and inform attendees on the brand, offering a behind the scenes insight into the research and design process, the brand inspiration and the product range. Hosting the event will be the head designer of the collection, accompanied by a guest influencer (from the podcast guest list). They will share their personal experiences the audience, discussing the positive message behind the project and its impact on them. Lastly, we will host a Q+A session to encourage discussion and further insight into the product range.

The Promotion.

The attendees of the event will recieve a 10% discount code of their first purchase from the collection, redeemable in store or online. This aims to spark attraction, increase demand and motivate an initial purhcase within a limited time frame. We predict this should increase sales and consumer traffic in store and online, offerring quick results. We hope customers positive experience of the underwear will result in ongoing loyalty with the brand, and further recommendations to their peers and those in their community.

50

51

Figure 28.

Figure 29.

The Invitations & Target Audience We aim to target our core consumer, and tactile shopper. We will invite a mix of 40 industry professionals such as stylists, editors and influencers to the events to raise awareness of the brand, the importance of inclusive design and promote press coverage of the launch.

Nevertheless, the majority of those in attendance will be members of the public. We will use data from the My John Lewis loyalty scheme to identify customers who may be interested in the product launch. Those targeted will be sent a personal print invitation. Every My John Lewis customer will also recieve a launch email, regarding the product line with information to the events are their most frequently visited store. The event details will also be promoted on the JLP website and social media channels.

52

53

Social Media Key parts of the event, such as the Q+A will be streamed via IGTV and Facebook Live on both @Mooi and @Johnlewsandpartners to engage an online audience. A member of the marketing team will be in charge of managing the page for the day, collecting content of the product line, attributes and customers reactions.

Highlights of the event will be saved into the instagram highlights section of the brands page, to remain as a reference point for consumers.

Measurements & KPI's.

The success of the in store events will be measured through analysing the number of those in attendance, in conjunction with the influence of these numbers to the subsequent consumption at the event. At each event attendees will be offered an exclusive promotional code redeemable online or in store in the following month. The number of promotional codes redeemed will provide further analytics regarding the success and influence of the event on overall sales. In addition, the overall sales of the product line will be measured over the following 18 month period to measure the overall impact of the launch event. Lastly, the feedback gained at the event, regarding the brand philosophy and functionalities of the product line will shape future collections. While social media interaction and mentions, generated after the event will be measured to gauge the response and compared to the sales data provided.

Results & Impacts.

The events will build a relationship of trust, support and acknowledgment with our consumers, gaining a favourable reputation amongst our demographic.

Through providing fixed dates for the launch of the collection, this will concentrate media coverage into a reduced time frame, sparking media buzz and consumer interest around the brand and product line. In turn this will raise awareness and recognition for Mooi, positioning them as innovators within the accessible lingerie market. Furthermore, through inviting members of industry it should cement strong PR relations for future collections. The expected positive experience and brand association for John Lewis and Partners will encourage a wider audience of consumers with disabilities to shop in the department stores, increasing overall company profits.

54

55

The Event Timeline.

Month

Description

September

Stage 1: Research & Plan In depth research into the consumer to influence the event planning and guest list.

Develop list of guest speakers; designer, micro influencer.

Plan the logistics and visual merchandise for the event; core branding and pop up shop features.

Contact guest speakers.

Sign off on guest speakers and event itinerary.

Source the visual merchandise and equipment.

Financial Considerations.

Service Venue Staff Research and Planning Visual Merchandising, Equipment and Technology Guest Speakers Marketing Communications

Description

Cost

Not applicable as the event will be held within the department stores.

N/A

Staff training costs and hosting the event. (Eventbrite, 2019)

£6,000

Consumer research and sales analytics costings will be absorbed N/A in other costs.

The decoration and branding. (Eventbrite, 2019)

Stage 2: Invitations Send invites to those in industry; influencers, stylists, editors and journalists.

Send email invitations to current John Lewis customers identified as the target audience.

Send promotional email surrounding the launch of the brand, with information on the upcoming event.

£3,000

Wage and incentive for the designer and guest speakers to speak £1,000 at the panel (Eventbrite, 2019).

Email invitation, press invities and promotional invitations.

(Eventbrite, 2019)

£750

Approximate Costing

Approximate cost for the launch events.

£8750

Unforeseen Costs

An additional 10% onto approximate costs to cover unforeseen expenses.

£875

Total Costing

Approximate costs + Unforeseen Costs

£9625

October

November

56

Stage 3: Retail Adaptions All members of staff on the shop floor will undergo training regarding serving a customer with disabilities. Fitting assistance in the lingerie department will also have training surrounding the new band, product attributes and the new simplified sizing system.

Considerations towards an accessible retail environment will be implemented throughout the store.

Stage 4: The Events 11th November Set up event in London 12th November Collection Launch and host the event in London 13th November Set up event in Manchester.

14th November Host the event in Manchester.

15th November Set up event in Southampton 16th November Host the event in Southampton 17th November Set up event in Cardiff 18th November Host the event Cardiff 19th November Set up event in Edinburgh 20th November Host the event Edinburgh

57

The PODCAST A chance to unwind.

58

59

Figure 25.

Morning rituals Sexual Pleasure Self Care Confidence Diversity Fashion &beauty

Objectives & Core Strategy. ‘Mooi: In Conversation’ will be an 8 part podcast series to support the launch of the brand and product collection. The immersive audio experience will offer our consumer a deeper insight into the motivations behind the brand launch, our brand values and core philosophy. The series will follow a discussion format hosted by a brand designer, featuring a broad range of inspirational guests who each experience some form of physical impairment. Each episode will focus upon their personal experiences with their disabilities, exploring a broad range of subject matters from sexual pleasure and self care rituals, to their experience within the workplace. In addition, guests and designers will discuss why they choose to wear Mooi underwear, and how it helps in their daily routines. The candid nature of the interviews will present an empowering, optimistic and supportive narrative, to create a safe and intimate space for both the guest and the listener. Through the podcast we aim to develop an authentic and meaningful relationship with our customer while raising awareness towards the experiences of women with disabilities. At the core of our brand ethos we strive to reduce stigmatisation surround this demographic, and support further investment into inclusive design. Lastly, the podcast aims to attract a wider audience to the collection through increasing brand awareness. This should increase and initial sales of the collection.

60

61

Episode Guide & Guest List.

Episode 1. Kelly Knox

Episode 2. Dame Sarah Storey DBE

Episode 3. Penny Pepper

Episode 4. Jordan Bone

The first episode will introduce the podcast and the brand to the audience. Our guest will be Kelly Knoxx, arguably the UK's most popular disabled model. In 2016 she co founded the 'Diversity not Disability' campaign. She joins the podcast to discuss diversity within the fashion industry and why achieving it is so important.

Joined by Dame Sarah Storey, Team GB Paralympian, having won 14 gold medals throughout her career.

She will discusses her journey to Olympic success, and the positive mindset tools she employed to maintain strength and determination throughout. She talks about personal self care rituals she employs to pamper herself.

Penny is an award winning poet, author and disability rights activist. In 2003 she published 'Desires' a unique collection of fiction depicting the experience of people with disabilities as they navigate relationships and sex. During this episode we will discuss sexual pleasure and navigating relationships for women with disabilities.

Jordan Bone is an instagram influencer who suffered from a spinal cord injury, promoting self love, spirituality and positivity to her 136k followers. On this episode we focus on the power of a positive mindset and energy. We discuss spiritual rituals she implements into her routine to maintain her outlook.

Episode 5. Grace Mandevill

Episode 6. Francesca Martinez

Episode 8. Renata Jazdzyk

Episode 8. Mary Berry

Grace is an influencer, YouTuber and illustrator who advocates for diversity and disability awareness.

She joins the podcast to discuss women in business and the creative industry. We unpack the need for inclusive design and the innovative opportunities that arise when those with disabilities are considered.

Francesca Martinez is a British Comedian who joins the podcast to discuss the impact of growing up with a disability in a world which celebrates perfection.

She discusses her career such as her success at the Edinburgh fringe, offering a comedic outlook to womanhood.

Renata Jazdzyk is a model influencer, Fashion Creative, Ageism Fighter offering a constant source of style to her followers. This episode focuses on confidence and style at any age, discussing age diversity in the fashion industry.

Our final episode will feature baking royalty Mary Berry. Mary suffers from arthritis in her hands, a common illness that can cause difficulty when getting dresses. On the podcast she discusses how her condition has effected her life and her career.

Figure set 26.

62

63

Financial Considerations.

Service Equipment

Description

Cost

2x Microphone's: £180 each 2x XLR Cable: £40 each 2x Studio Headphones: £30 each 1x Recorder: £200 (The Podcast Host, 2019).

£640

Software

1x Mixer: £110 Podcast Hosting £10 a month Series runs over 2 months with 8 once a week episodes.

£130

Cover Art

Graphic design of the Podcast cover and marketing.

Not applicable as costs will be absorbed within the branding of the range.

N/A

Music and FX

Sound design to represent the show. (The Podcast Host, 2019)

£109

£75 per epsiode (The Podcast Host, 2019).

8 Episodes within the series.

£600

Approximate Costing

Approximate cost for Product line and Lookbook.

£1479

Unforeseen Costs

An additional 10% onto approximate costs to cover unforeseen expenses.

£147.90

Total Costing

Approximate costs + Unforeseen Costs

£1626.90

Production Costs

Podcast Timeline.

Month

Description

October

Stage 1: Research & Plan Research guests to engage the target audience.

Research topics to discuss and plan out episodes.

Contact guests to invite them on.

Source technology and equipment.

Design the cover art.

November

Stage 2: Produce and Promote Record all 8 episodes.

Mix the Episodes and add sound features.

Promote the Podcast via social media.

Measurements.

To measure the success of the podcast we will monitor the engagement (downloads, listens and shares) for each episode. In addition we will calculate the amount of money generated from listens if the podcast was self sustaining. Finally we will compare the podcasts engagement to the corresponding social media and website engagement and product sales over the 8 week period of its release. Feedback in the comment section of the platforms will be reflected upon, as well as conversations surrounding the podcast on social media.

December

Results & Impacts.

Through basing our subject matters on consumer research and the brands values we expect a successfully engaging podcast that raises awareness towards our brand launch.

January

Stage 3: Broadcast.

Broadcast each episode weekly on Spotify and Apple Podcasts.

The episodes will be promoted weekly on the social media account.

Analyse and measure data from podcasts.

In addition, we expect the podcast to achieve frequent and high quality engagement due to the nature of the listening platforms; once someone subscribes the episodes will recurrently download. Through including guests with large following we expect to attract a wide and diverse audience, as well as a positive media buzz promoting the brand.

64

65

66

The INSTAGRAM 67

Objectives.

The core objective for Mooi’s instagram page is to raise brand awareness through communicating a clear identity, both visually and verbally to our customers. We aim to encourage adoption of the product line into the lifestyle of the consumer through providing engaging, empowering and desirable content, allowing them to invest and connect with core philosophy. In the first 18 months of launch we aim to achieve 200,000 followers to curate a strong and loyal consumer community.

Target Audience.

Our instagram page aims to target two different consumers. Firstly, it will attract the digitally native millennial, who use instagram as entertainment and as a form of self branding. They have short attention spans, so favour primarily visual content they can easily share with their followers. Secondly, we aim to engage the tech savvy Boomer. This consumer spends significantly less time on social media platforms such as instagram, however they consciously checkout a brand’s profile to access in-depth product research, reviews and promotions. They want clear assurance behind the product and brand they will be investing in.

68

69

Core Strategy.

The instagram page will be a curated depiction of the Mooi brand, focusing on driving awareness, desire and loyalty towards the collection through frequent engagement and interesting content. Implementing a multimedia approach we will make full use of the platforms core features such as IGTV, live sessions, stories and highlights to accompany our core posts. Our content will range from showcasing our collection and product features, promoting our events and podcast to hosting discussion forums and Q+A’s via our brand story or live session.

The Aesthetic.

Utilising the core brand elements, we will employ the typography, colour palette and corporate patterns used in promotional activity to ensure the branding is consistent and recognisable. We aim to produce shareable content that promotes audience engagement and reposts amongst their peers. The posts aim to be empowering and celebratory in tone, promoting full inclusivity. Our imagery will feature a diverse range of models with physical impairments, celebrating women of all races or size, at any age.

Although editorial in style, the photos will remain untouched, candid and intimate; showcasing real women in their real environments.

Shoppable Content.

To support consumers desire for instant newness while promoting sales, we will utilise instagrams ‘swipe up’ feature within our stories, taking the consumer direct to the relevant product or to our brand page on John Lewis’s website. In addition, every product featured within our posts will be tagged to allow customers to reach the product page from within the app. Due to the nature of lingerie, many women refrain from impulsive purchases to ensure the correct fit and comfort. Although implementing shoppable content may not directly increase in app purchases, we predict it will promote further interest and consideration into the product details, leading to an overall increase in sales. #MooiMornings #MooiMornings will be our brand hashtag and primary campaign strategy to accompany the launch of our brand and product collection. It will communicate our core concept, focusing on collaborations with real women with mobility impairments morning rituals. We aim to illustrate how Mooi’s underwear line can effectively improve our customers experience of getting dressed independently. The ‘model’ will discuss the steps the takes to start her day off right, focusing on wellness routines, self care and beauty. The content will range from a short video uploaded to the main page and IGTV, to photos with a short interview or tip below. Through using a hashtag we encourage our audience to join in and tag us, to produce user generated content for the profile.

70

71

Channels.

Our content will primarily be shared directly onto the @Mooi Instagram as posts, stories, IGTV and highlights. Highlight posts surrounding the collection and promotional activities will also be shared onto the @Johnlewisandpartners instagram page to attract newer audiences to the new brands profile. Highlight posts, stories and live streams will also be shared onto Mooi’s Facebook page.

Measurements and KPIs. Firstly, we will measure the impact by utilise instagrams built in data analysis tool ‘insights’. This will offer information on engagement and impressions. In addition, gained followers, likes, shares and comments will provide further stats on the success. As the posts will be shoppable, we will measure the click throughs and purchases from each post to gage which is the most effective.

The content will be monitored daily and compared in correlation to the online sales and overall sales of the brand.

Results and Impacts We expect the instagram page will be popular and gain a quick and powerful following, due to the promotion of the brand and instagram page on John Lewis’s primary instagram page. The hashtag will encourage customer engagement and help in developing a community. The feedback gained from consumers will help in the development of future product lines and marketing strategies.

72

73

18 Month TIMELINE Activity

Market Research

Product Development

Branding Strategy

Email Marketing

January

February

Create a PESTEL analysis into the current market trends.

Research current adaptive lingerie options on the market and conduct a SWOT competitor analysis, analysing the productlines and features.

Conduct primary and secondary consumer research research into the functional needs of the consumer through focus groups, charity research and surveys.

Informed by the market research, designers will research upcoming trends, creating a design board for the initial collection. Research will detail material sourcing, pattern design, colours and silhouettes.

Begin collecting data for sizing strategy using 3D scanning through collaborations with Scope Charity. Continue collecting until 300 participants have been analysed.

March

April

Research press outlets to target the consumer.

Develop and patent a discreet magnetic fastening to allow the underwear to help those with mobility impairments.

Design exclusive in house brand patterns. Finalise the designs for the initial collection and conduct pattern cutting.

All materials, trimmings and fabrics will be sourced.

Analyse the data from the sizing research. Curate a simplified sizing Materials, patterns and designs will be sent to manufacturer for strategy to be implemented within the design. product mock ups.

Begin designing the brand elements for the collection, working A clear brand strategy will be made to inform marketing communialongside the designers of the collection to ensure the branding cations. elements are informed by the aesthetic and target the audience.

My John Lewis loyalty scheme will send an email asking customers to participate in research group to aid in design process of the new collection.

Begin researching influencers and micro influencers to target the consumers. Measuring their engagement rate, topics of discussion and activities.

Social Media

Informed by consumer research, a team will begin curating a strategic plan on how to make John Lewis Retail Stores more accesible for the disabled consumer.

Retail Store

Informed by Consumer research, a team will begin curating a strategic plan on how to make John Lewis online Stores more accesible for the disabled consumer. Conduct focus group understanding the usability and accesibility of current website.

Website

74

75

Manufacturer will make the product mock up.

Activity

May

June

Conduct numerous focus group to test the product prototype and receive feedback on the functionality and comfort of the garments.

Collect findings and reflect on the product to ensure it is right for the customer.

Finalise the design and send it to the manufacturer with details on stock quantity.

July

August

Market Research

Product Development

Branding Strategy

Finalise the brand identity. Implement the designs onto labels and bags for the product line. As well as logos for social media pages.

Recieve stock from manufacturer and distribute to John Lewis warehouses.

Print Labels and in store merchandise to accompany brand launch.

The Event

Email Marketing

Social Media

Create accounts for @Mooi on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube to secure the domain.

Begin curating a social media strategy for the product launch and events.

Design team and branding team will brief a photographer on the inspiration behind the lookbook.

Location, models and props will be planned.

The LookBook

Shoot the product line for the lookbook. It will then be edited by a graphic designer and edited into both print and digital formats.

The Podcast

Design visual branding elements for the store design.

Retail Store

Website

76

77

Activity

September

October

November

December

Market Research

Product Development

Place labels and tags on the garments.

Ensure stock is ready for launch. Distriute the stock to JLP stores.

Branding Strategy

Finalise the brand identity. Implement the designs onto labels and bags for the product line. As well as logos for social media pages.

The Event

In depth research into the consumer to influence the event planning and guest list.

Develop list of guest speakers; designer, micro influencer.

Plan the logistics and visual merchandise for the event; core branding and pop up shop features.

Contact guest speakers.

Sign off on guest speakers and event itinerary.

Source the visual merchandise and equipment.

Social Media

Send invites to those in industry; influencers, stylists, editors and journalists.

Send email invitations to current John Lewis customers identified as the Events will be hosted betweed 11th November and 20th November. Suctarget audience. cess will be measured and analysed for future plans.

Send promotional email surrounding the launch of the brand, with information on the upcoming event.

Promotional emails will be sent to tease the upcoming launch of the collection and accompanying event.

Email Marketing

Recieve stock from manufacturer and distribute to John Lewis warehouses.

12th November: Product Launch.

Promotional emails will be sent in the lead up of the product launch and events.

12th November: Product launch email will be sent with information on social media accounts, and podcast.

Promotional email will be sent at the end of the month reminding customers of the collection and detailing press coverage.

Begin curating content for the social media. Contact influencers to promote the line and join int he #MooiMorning campaign.

The LookBook

Look book will be uploaded online and distributed to press.

The Podcast

Retail Store

Research guests to engage the target audience.

Research topics to discuss and plan out episodes.

Contact guests to invite them on.

Source technology and equipment.

Design the cover art.

Record all 8 episodes.

Mix the Episodes and add sound features.

Promote the Podcast via social media.

All members of staff on the shop floor will undergo training regarding serving a customer with disabilities. Fitting assistance in the lingerie department will also have training surrounding the new band, product attributes and the new simplified sizing system.

Considerations towards an accessible retail environment will be implemented throughout the store.

Ensure the store is ready for launch and events. Visual merchandising is in place.

Broadcast each episode weekly on Spotify and Apple Podcasts.

Analyse and measure data from podcasts

Begin advertising the upcoming product launch on the website page. Ensure Wesbite is updated and ready for the launch.

Website

78

79

Appendix 2. Market Research.

The Disability Opportunity Despite the fashion industries contemporary focus towards inclusivity, the needs and desires of consumers with disabilities remain neglected within the current market. Few brands have recognised the lucrative opportunity for innovation serving this demographic enables, as well as the broader societal benefits it can facilitate. In the UK alone, 13.9 million people are living with a disability, accounting for around 20% of the population (Hawkins and Bishop, 2019). In conjunction with an ageing population and advancements in our technological and medical abilities to survive disease and injury, those who are living with a physical or mental disability will continue to rise (Lee, 2016).

Currently, the market opportunity for accessible apparel in the UK is estimated to be worth ÂŁ249 Billion (Hawkins and Bishop, 2019). When considering the global scope of this consumer, it increased to $1.2 trillion, exceeding $6.9 trillion when including family members (Hawkins and Bishop, 2019). Ignoring the needs and desires of this consumer base proves a naive and irresponsible move for brands. Through providing products, such as adaptive lingerie, that supports and cater to the unique needs of disabled consumers discretely and effectively, brands can minimise the implications of their disability. In turn, increasing their confidence, sense of independence and quality of life, while creating a more inclusive marketplace that celebrates every individual (Feather et al, 1989; Klerk and Ampousah, 2003).

Accesible Lingerie Market Through conducting a market audit during semester one, it showed the current adaptive lingerie market is characterised by a limited range of unstylish, low quality garments at a premium price point, despite consumer research depicting a growing demand for functional lingerie that prioritises a trend led aesthetic (Hong et al, 2017). Many argue this is due to the cost of supportive and adaptive designs, or technological limitations (Hong et al, 2017). Furthermore, accessible lingerie brands are sold predominantly through secondary retailers with outdated websites and the options for purchase on the high street were limited, often found within specialist independent boutiques.

The importance of a design centred lingerie line is exemplified through the understanding that lingerie offers benefits past its initial functionality. Although understood as private apparel, underwear is used to provide protection, and can further act as a form of self-expression, a symbol of status and in the maintenance of personal relationships (Klerk and Ampousah, 2001; Chang et al 2014). It further harbours the ability to increase one’s self-concept and mood,

Appendix 1. Initial Reflection Since the submission of my research portfolio the development of the brand has progressed significantly. During the feedback session my idea was credited with being an innovative and well considered brand extension concept, to address a well articulated gap in the market. My USP took into account the need of an underserved consumer base and illustrated effectively the market opportunity. Nevertheless, further consideration was needed regarding the psychoanalytic of my target consumer to influence and further inform the branding strategy and promotional activities.

The importance of implementing the correct and appropriate tone of voice was highlighted to engage with a disabled consumer base without risk of alienation. Furthermore, updating market and consumer trends was of importance to

acting as a physical extension of oneself, and further influencing their relationship with their body and their peers (Klerk and Ampousah, 2001; Chang et al, 2013).

It is understood women with disabilities are are willing to spend an increased premium on garments that are not only functional, but fashionable (Chang et al, 2014; Annette-Hitchcock and Xu, 2015; Macdonald et al, 1994). Therefore, allowing for assured investment into the design and aesthetic of the product line. The functionality of the products are still of important. Through being able to dress independently, the line should have a direct positive impact to the customers self efficacy and belief that they can accomplish other goals within their life, hopefully increasing confidence and empowerment (Chang et al, 2014).

understand the correct marketing campaigns to employ.

80

81

Driving Market Trends Inclusive Design As noted, more brands are waking up to the highly demanded and lucrative investment opportunity of inclusive design, consideration towards disabled consumers needs are becoming increasingly prevalent within design (WGSN Macro Forecast Team, 2018).

Emotional Well-being

Consideration towards COVID 19

Further fuelled by the repercussions of the pandemic, there has been an increased focus towards our emotional

Covid-19 has caused disruption to every aspect of our life. There is widespread understanding that the repercussion’s of the pandemic will drastically change consumers purchasing and lifestyle habits moving forward. During our online lectures, it was noted the importance of reflecting on the implications it will have on our brand strategy. Thus, research into the effects this will have on consumer purchase intention and the future of retail was considered and updated within the market research to influence the development of the project.

wellbeing and a re-evaluation of how we navigate our relationship with social media and technology (Bell and Owen, 2020; Friend, 2019). We are increasingly using happiness and health as metrics for success, rather than financial assets (WGSN Macro Forecast Team, 2018). Consumers are prioritising experiences over material consumption, and craving moments of relaxation, spirituality and generosity from brands (WGSN Macro Forecast Team, 2018). Lifestyle changes has led people to spend more time at home and focus on self care driven by convenience and community (WGSN Macro Forecast Team, 2018).

• More people are working from home and wearing loungewear, increasing the importance of comfortability in garments such as underwear (Fenton et al, 2020) • Dramatically raised health concerns, as people increase their hygiene routines and also focus towards their personal wellbeing during self-isolation (Muston et al, 2020; Palmer, 2020). The increased focus towards health will influence future fabric and fibre innovations regarding hygiene (Muston et al, 2020; Palmer 2020). Of importance to lingerie, anti-microbial, moisture wicking and kind-to-skin fabrics will need to be further researched for my product development (Muston et al, 2020).

• As people are quarantined at home and access to shops are limited, consideration has again shifted towards the environmental impact of our consumption habits, causing many to lean towards a minimalist approach that promotes longevity (Muston et al, 2020). People want protection and comfort from their garments, supported with confident and cohesive brand communications.

• As the UK and many other countries enforced limitations upon one hour of exercise per day, consumers are becoming increasingly engaged with their natural world. This will be reflected in the rise of florals and nature inspired prints that will be featured in design (Lynch, 2020b).

82

Supporting women for life As notions of inclusivity continue to expand, there has been a growing movement towards creating products and services that support women throughout the different stages of their life, understanding their journey and needs (The Future Laboratory, 2018c; WGSN Intimates and Swim Team, 2019). Although the UK has an ageing population, 62% of those over 50 believe marketers ignore their point of view in favour for younger consumers (Gransnet, 2019). Brands need to build strategies to engage with boomers in an authentic and genuine way. (Trend is further supported by consumer research into Boomers) Creating intimacy To counter our individualistic and fragmented society, there will be an increase in experiential spaces, workshops and curriculums that supports community and facilitates human engagement, as we strive towards creating tight knit communities. For brands this means creating engaging and meaningful relationships with your consumer (WGSN Forecast Team, 2019)

83

Consumer Research: Women with Mobility Impairments Demographic • In the UK, 11.6 million people are disabled, of that 54% are women and 10.1% suffer from a mobility impairment (Business Disability Forum, 2014).

• Currently in the UK 3.7 million disabled people are in employment, with 50.4% of disabled women aged 16 to 64 years in some form of work. Most are employed within professional occupations (Office for national statistics,

Appendix 3. Consumer Research

2018b). However, there is a large pay gap between disabled and non-disabled employees due to their occupation and lower acquired qualifications. Of importance, a main factor in the neglect of consumers with disabilities is the high unemployment rates amongst this demographic. Currently in the UK only 52.6% of people with a disability

Consumer Development: Following my initial feedback from semester one, in-depth research into my consumer’s psychoanalysis regarding their lifestyle and communication preferences was needed for a more concise development of my brand. A clear understanding of the consumer’s needs and desires will help to influence and inform the development of the product range and promotional mix. I found researching and curating a consumer profile for women with disability challenging, due to the limited studies that focus primarily on the disabled consumer. Due to the nature of the garment and the fact mobility impairments can effect women throughout their whole life, I didn’t want to limit the customer too much by their age.

are in employment (Powell, 2019). However, as a positive result of government initiatives and businesses looking to increase their employee diversity, 600,00 more people with a disability were in employment between 2013 and 2017 (House of Lords, 2018). Through increased employability opportunities these consumers will hold a greater disposable income with an increased opportunity of needs. This significant rise in employment opportunities thus reinstates the positive investment opportunity presented through the disability market.

• Disabled consumers are less likely to have studied at higher education and usually achieve lower scores at GCSE than their able-bodied peers due to the influence of low expectations on their education trajectories. Only 26% of disabled students will achieve five or more A*-C grades at GCSE compared to 67% of non-disabled students, and

Defining the Consumer: Women with restricted mobility.

Research into defining disability showed the term depicts an extensive range of both mental and physical impairments.

Disability is understood as “the lack of ability to perform an activity that is considered normal for human beings” encapsulating and impairment, disease or disorder that ultimately places restrictions upon one’s ability to perform a task (Chang et al., 2013, p. 163). Due to the diverse, unique and often case-by-case needs of disabled consumers, it was imperative that within developing my brand concept, the consumer profile was targeted clearly and concisely.

Thus, it was specified the lingerie line will be aimed directly at women with mobility restrictions or impairments, such as reduced movement in the arms or shoulders that may cause an obstacle when getting dressed. By narrowing down our consumer this ensures a clear target consumer to reduce confusion, disappointment and limit potential backlash.

Defining the Consumer: Consideration of John Lewis and Partners current customers.

Although the accessible line aims to increase and diversify their current consumer base, to ensure the target consumer was appropriate for the department store, further research was undertaken into John Lewis & Partner’s current female customer profile. Research showed the brand was popular amongst Millennials (72%), Generation X (66%) and Baby Boomers (68%) with an average income of £40,000 a year, due to its offering of high-quality products, excellent and trustworthy customer service and affordable price point (YouGov, 2020). As millennial’s and baby boomers marginally account for a more significant section of John Lewis’s customer section, I decided to focus my branding strategy towards both of these demographics.

of those 75% choose to continue to study A Levels (The conversation, 2018). However, in recent years there has been an increase in disabled students enrolling at University as campuses become better equipped to cater towards their needs (Skidmore, 2019). Within the UK Brunel, Worcester and Leeds offer the most positive experience for disabled students (Skidmore, 2019).

Behaviour • As a consumer group, those with a disability averagely spend an extra £570 a month more than those without; due to special transport costs, the need for adaptive clothing and increased energy consumption (CMA, 2018).

• Disabled consumers require personalised and and adapted products that cater towards their individual requirements (Hong et al, 2017). Of importance was the recognition for comfortable, functional and protective apparel that considered their medical care (Hong et al, 2017; Chang et al, 2014).

• Although functionality and social dignity is vital, to satisfy the consumer the design of the garments should pay attention towards fashion trends and personal style as female consumers with a disability prioritise physical appearance and self-expression when purchasing clothing (Chang et al, 2014; Annette-Hitchcock and Xu, 2015; Hong et al, 2017).

• Research has found little or no difference between the self-perception or clothing interests between women with or without disabilities (Stokes and Black, 2012). Many want fashionable garments that reflect what their ablebodied peers are wearing. To be truly successful the lingerie line needs to appeal to both disabled and able

Despite presenting a wide age range, recent research suggests age is becoming less of a factor concerning consumer

bodied consumers, to avoid personal stigmatisation of the disabled consumer (Klerk and Ampousah, 2003). Klerk

attitudes and behaviour. Older women especially are feeling neglected from brand narratives. As mobility impairments

and Ampousah (2003) found women with disabilities compare themselves to their able bodied peers and aim to

can affect women at any or during all stages of life, consideration must be made across the whole spectrum, and no

fit a generalised stereotype or style tribe. Thus, functional details must be discreet and unnoticeable so as not to

woman feels excluded.

devalue the wearers self-perception (Stoke and Black, 2012).

84

85

• The importance of one’s appearance is exemplified in a study by Macdonald et al (1994) in which 92% of female disabled consumers made their purchasing decisions independently and a further 39% of disabled women were willing to spend a 10% increase on functional garments that were fashionable. Due to the limited product offerings on the market that specifically cater for their needs, many are willing to spend an increased premium to acquire garments that are not only functional, but fashionable (Macdonald et al, 1994).

• Chang et al (2014) discovered some consumers enjoy wearing unique clothing to express their personality and build their confidence through the disassociation from their lack of perceived self capabilities. Thus, as our market research shows, adaptive apparel within the mainstream fashion industry is limited, disregards trends and style and usually has obvious features to suggest it has been adapted. Through providing adaptive apparel that addresses their personal needs discretely, it will minimise the implications of their disability while increasing disabled consumers sense of independence and their social adjustment (Feather et al, 1989; Klerk and Ampousah, 2003).

• Studies show those with a disability are more likely to experience feeling isolated, lonely or depressed (Bender et al, 1999). As it is widely recognised women with disabilities face greater mental and physical challenges, they

Consumer Research: Millennials Demographic: • Millennials are defined as being born between 1981 and 1996 meaning they will be aged between 24 and 39 in 2020 (Dimock, 2019). They are understood as the largest demographic globally with approximately 12 million in the UK, accounting for the second largest market within clothes retailing contributing to 27.5% of sales (Mak, 2019).

Geographic: • In the UK 19% of millennial live in London, making it the most concentrated city for this generation, however due to expensive property prices many are choosing to live in other cities such as Coventry, Bristol or Newcastle (Brown et al; 2017; LPL, 2019). Due to high student populations, many younger millennials are also focused around university cities such as Manchester, Cardiff and Southampton (Rae, 2016).

are more susceptible to having a lower self concept than their able bodied peers. Research into the relationship between women with disabilities and their self concept, in relation to their purchasing habits often found women use their clothing to improve their self concept, while in turn those with a higher self concept increasingly enjoyed the consumption of ‘nice’ clothing (Chang et al 2014; Chang et al, 2013). Self concept is defined as “self-perceptions related to attitudes, feelings, and knowledge about one’s appearance or abilities” (Chang et al, 2013, p.164). It is understood to reference how one evaluates themselves, further influencing their beliefs, attitudes and behaviours as a consumer and their overall life satisfaction. Clothing selection was identified as an important factor in increasing disabled consumers perceived life satisfaction and consequently their self concept as disabled women with a higher self esteem chose clothing to increase their self confidence and act as an “enhancement of individuality” (Chang et al, 2013, p. 173).

• Klerk and Ampousah (2003) found women with disabilities have relatively positive perceptions of their private self, seeing themselves as capable women. However, it is the assumed recognition of others perceptions of their handicap that generally lowers their self efficacy, showing an internalised weaker perception of their public self.

This suggests women with mobility impairments are comfortable within the comforts of their own home or when surrounded with friends, partners or family members they trust. Thus, when curating the tone of voice within the marketing strategy, it is crucial to avoid patronising or pitying remarks.

• When deciding where to purchase, many gain information regarding retailer recommendations through online communities created on platforms such as Facebook and Instagram or online forums as they offer a credible source from people who understand their perspective, in addition to social interactions (Annette-Hitchcock and Xu, 2015).

• Currently despite the lack of specific product offerings catered to their needs, 81% of female disabled consumers prefer to shop in a mall or department store setting such as John Lewis, however attitudinal barriers, lack of appropriate fitting rooms and small aisles reduce purchase motivations (Macdonald et al, 1994; Annette-Hitchcock and Xu, 2015).

Psychographic: • They are often described as “creative, innovative and approachable…ambitious, generous and very sympathetic” • Research shows that Millennials’ physical and mental health is declining faster than their parents (Blue Cross Blue Shield, 2019). Money is understood to play a factor in this, as their personal finances are a large anxiety for this generation (McGregor, 2018). Many have acquired large debts due to student loans, as well as facing the repercussions of the 2008 recession and now the impact of COVID 19.

• Their diverse upbringing and social media influence has given millennials an inclusive and confident mindset, concerned with social and political equality (Clark, 2019a). Within the fashion industry, many want wider representation of models (Sender, 2018).

• An increasingly environmentally conscious generation, 61% believe through their conscious choices they can make a difference to the environmental crisis (Daneshkhu, 2018). Additionally, many believe climate change and the environmental crisis is a direct result of human activity on the earth and 47% believe they can directly observe the effects within their communities (Funk and Hefferon, 2019). Although trend driven, many want timeless, slower fashion due to environmental impacts (Sender, 2018).

• Experiences are becoming a social currency for this generation with many prioritising their health, happiness and family over money and wealth (McGregor, 2018). With less disposable income than past generations and an increasingly uncertain financial future, many choose to invest in experiences and events, prioritising social interaction online or in real life. 81% say they would rather spend their money on travelling, than saving for the future (McGregor, 2018).

• Unlike older generations, millennials don’t get their entertainment from broadcast television or Radio, watching significantly less hours a week than baby boomers (Gapper, 2018). Instead on demand entertainment services or subscriptions are increasingly popular such as Netflix, Spotify or Acast (Gapper, 2018).

• Many views themselves as lifelong learners and view digital entertainment as an educational tool (Mckinsey &

Geographic: • The North West has been found to be the most constraining area of the UK for disabled people to live, with many

Company, 2017).

favouring home counties surrounding London such as, Surrey, Hampshire and Oxfordshire as they have better infrastructure in place to cater for their needs (Edwards, 2013).

86

87

Consumer Research: Boomers Demographic • Defined by the US Census Bureau as those born between 1946 - 1964, Baby Boomers make up a quarter of the US, UK and Australian population (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014). As our life expectancy grows and people have fewer children the proportion of people over 60 is projected to reach 34% of the population in developed regions by 2050 (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014). They account for 25% of the UK clothing retail market (Mak, 2019). In the UK Women over the age of 50 account for 41% of £2.7 billion of the annual spend on clothing, shoes and accessories.

Within womenswear there has been an increase in Boomers shopping independently for themselves (Mintel, 2017).

• Baby Boomers are estimated to be the wealthiest demographic in the UK, experiencing the largest increase (96%) in their household wealth between 2006 -2016, and a fifth of Boomers in the UK are millionaires (Asgari, 2019).

They will harbour an estimated £9 trillion spending power by 2020, with Boomers now spending about £390 on average per week on items other than housing, rising from just £105 in 2002 (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014). The average Boomer has a wealth of £300,000, acquired through inheritance, lucrative final salary pension schemes and soaring house prices. In the UK, the over-50s control 60% of total savings and 80% of the wealth (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014).

Geographic Behavioural

• Boomers form the majority demographic in suburban and rural areas of the UK (Rae, 2016).

• Technology is strongly integrated within Millennials daily lives with many taking the accessibility and convenience

• As many are living healthier and longer lives, there has developed a culture of agelessness in which peoples

for granted (Gapper, 2018). 93% Millennials own smartphone and 64% use it to purchase clothing, with 40% record

interests and activities are no longer changing in relation to their age and many still view themselves as middle-

their experiences of products on social media, trusting peers’ recommendations (Mintel, 2018; Vogels, 2019). In

aged or younger (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014).

2017 70% of online purchases were made using a laptop or computer, 63% was made on a smartphone and only 28% were made using a tablet (Mintel, 2018).

Behavioural

• 1 in 3 millennials are pessimistic about social medias impact on their personal health and wellbeing (Suciu, 2020).

• Their physical health and independence are incredibly important to them. Many want to be able to live independently

They tend to use the platforms as personal branding tools and spend a large portion of their days on the applications.

for as long as possible, with less than a quarter of British adults considering moving into a care home if they

Nevertheless, social media marketing, specifically Instagram, is a popular method for brands to engage with the

became frail in old age (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014). To support this, they remain an active generation with those

millennial market. The demographics appreciation for smaller brands, newness and trust in influencers promotions

aged 66 visiting the gym most frequently, excessing 20 times more per year than teenage gym-goers, as well as

of new products has allowed smaller brands to explode quicker into the marketplace via this platform(Gapper,

being a large driver of the vitamins and supplement market (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014).

2018). Nevertheless, their appreciation of smaller brands illustrates the fussy and fragmented buying habits of millennials (Daneshkhu, 2018).

• These women take pride in their appearance, with many embracing the ageing process (60%) and feeling comfortable and confident in their own skin (72%) (AARP Research, 2019). 69% believe society is too focused on the youth (Friend,

• Millennials are quick to adopt trends and constantly searching for newness and regular product drops (Gapper,

2018). They are not motivated by their age and do not see it as a limitation for their style and capabilities. Instead

2018). Often more experimental with their purchases, in the beauty industry brands such as Urban Decay, Glossier,

they are greatly motivated by their financial position, Physical capacity and mindset (Wunderman Thompson,

MILK Make up are popular, as well as those produced by make-up artists Charlotte Tilbury and Trish McEvoy

2018).

(Gapper, 2018).

• 28% of boomer women are single (Wunderman Thompson, 2018). These women see it as a new sense of

• As millennials have become increasingly aware of endorsement and influencers links to brands, there has been a reduced impact of their posts on millennial spending. Instead 70% believe they are influenced by friend’s social media posts and 83% say they trust their recommendations (Mckinsey & Company, 2017).

• Millennial shoppers appreciate local, niche and natural brands, as they believe they are more authentic and trustworthy, symbolising their lack of trust of corporations (Gapper, 2018). Their increased scepticism is further depicted in their increased awareness of endorsement and influencers links to brands. There has been a reduced impact of their posts on millennial spending. Instead 70% believe they are influenced by friend’s social media posts and 83% say they trust their recommendations (Mckinsey & Company, 2017).

88

independence, and an empowering move. Of this demographic, 1 in 5 are dating (Wunderman Thompson, 2018)..

But they are often ignored from lingerie advertising.

• 53% feel ignored by the beauty industry, despite 58% saying they are more likely to purchase from brands that used older models that reflected themselves (AARP Research, 2019).

• As a demographic they are more trustworthy towards organisations and the government than younger generations, as a Pew study in 2014 40 % of boomers believed that others could be trusted (Gapper, 2018).

• Typically, Boomers have more conservative views than younger generations. However, many hold an activist

89

mindset from their youth, having experienced ethnic diversification, the sexual revolution and women liberation (Friend, 2018).

• They still enjoy reading newspapers, listening to the radio and watch television (Suciu, 2020).

• Boomers are a tech savvy generation with 68% owning a smartphone, 52% own a tablet and 59% using social media (Vogels, 2019). Boomers are on social media to reconnect with friends, connect with their community and receive updates on family members (Sucia, 2020). They also enjoy following trusted influential people and relevant groups to share interesting or useful posts to their feed and understand new aspects of their daily life (Tabor, 2019). Unlike millennials they have a positive association with their experience of social media, with 84% of boomers believing social media positively impact their lives (Sucia, 2020). However they only use the platforms sparingly in comparison to millennials, spending around one to two hours a day (Tabor, 2019). The most popular platform amongst this demographic is Youtube (70%) and then Facebook (68%) and 23% use instagram (Clement, 2019). Youtube remains popular due to DIY tutorials, celebrity interviews, political news and other genres they are passionate bout (Tabor, 2019).

• A new tribe of Boomer women are using SM platforms such as instagram to spread an age positive message, that is popular amongst a millennial following (Friend, 2019).

• More than 50% of boomers note to discovering products through their social networks, and continuing their research into the product or brand via search engines or the relevant website (Tabor, 2019). 52% make their buying decisions based on online reviews and more than half follow brands on social media for deals and promotions (Tabor, 2019). However, only 11% of those over the age of 55 purchased using mobile apps (Mintel, 2018). In 2017 88% of online purchases were made using a laptop or computer, 17% was made on a smartphone and 23% were made using a tablet (Mintel, 2018).

• In the UK Women over the age of 50 account for 41% of £2.7 billion of the annual spend on clothing, shoes and accessories. Within womenswear there has been an increase in Boomers shopping independently for themselves (Mintel, 2017).

• The US 50+ beauty market has risen by 13% to 44% of beauty products since the first year of the boomer. 79% of US women aged 50–59 wear it every week, rising to 80% of women aged 60–69. Despite this, many feel neglected by beauty brands who focus on anti-aging for this demographic, rather than fun and experimentation (Cooke and Buchanan, 2014).

Reflecting on the consumer research.

• It is vital the brands marketing aims focus on raising customers self concept and self esteem through appropriate campaigns and features within the product development. The line should clearly communicate and prioritise the

• 75% of women aged 53-64 didn’t feel like fashion adverts reflected them and wanted an increased recognition within the industry (Mintel, 2017)

core consumer, women with mobility constraints, while still appealing to women from all walks of life.

• The aesthetic of the lingerie line will be of importance, taking inspiration from mainstream lingerie lines, not

• Within their fashion choices they want high quality, timeless styles (Sender, 2018). The appreciate luxury items and

previous adaptive collections. The lingerie pieces will be beautiful and elegant with discreet fastenings that do not

enjoy investing in good quality products to achieve a happier and easier life. Many shop at Cos, Jigsaw, Aesop

distract from the overall design. Through the product development a clear style and aesthetic for the line will be

(Wunderman Thompson, 2018).

curated.

• Their loyalty is fragile with 90% willing to take ether business elsewhere if they feel they are not being understood and recognised (Wunderman Thompson, 2018).

• Consideration will be made within the product line and marketing strategy to focus on the unique and exclusive design elements of the lingerie.

• They are tactile shoppers, and like to feel the products, having an interactive and experiential experience

• When curating the tone of voice within the marketing strategy, it is crucial to avoid patronising or pitying remarks.

(Wunderman Thompson, 2018). From a store they was friendly and welcoming environment with no pressure, fully

The marketing strategy will aim to raise awareness of women with disabilities capability and achievements, with the

inclusive, and spacious (Wunderman Thompson, 2018).

intention to change the public perception, while using a celebratory, empowering and supportive tone.

90

91

Appendix 4. Research into John Lewis & Partners Benefits to launching through John Lewis and Partners: • JLP currently maintain a strong brand awareness and positive brand association with their consumers providing a powerful platform for the launch of an innovative accessible lingerie brand. Currently they are recognised as the second largest department store in the UK, behind Marks & Spencers (Passport, 2019). And they maintain a loyal middle-class consumer base built on the assurance of quality goods for a fair price, exemplified through their moto “never knowingly undersold” (John Lewis & Partners, 2019).

Research into John Lewis and Partners current offering.

In deciding on which marketing strategies to choose, consideration towards John Lewis and Partners retail strategy of 2019 aided in understanding exactly what the brand needed to offer. John Lewis retail strategy of 2019 outlined their aim of:

• It has been found 63% of consumers prefer to purchase from brands that stand for a purpose (Accenture Research, 2018). The launch of an accessible lingerie brand that caters towards women with mobility impairments supports the

“reimagining and redesigning how experiences can push the boundaries of how we shop and the products on offer…We

brands focus on providing exceptional customer service. It further maintains their values towards aiming “to create

believe in the future of shops. A physical shopping destination creates human connections and builds trust, particularly

a diverse and inclusive culture” as well as reflect changing consumer demands for diversity and inclusivity (John

at John Lewis & Partners, where our Partners, with specialist expertise and training, offer specialist advice and

Lewis & Partners, 2018). As John Lewis and Partners strive towards a socially responsible brand image, increased

personalised support… Offering the ability to delight customers with immersive experiences and make their purchases

attention regarding their disabled consumers through the creation of an adaptive lingerie line and accompanying

more meaningful” (John Lewis and Partners, 2019).

marketing strategy will exemplify and authenticate their aims.

• The department store currently operates a multichannel approach, sustaining 51 stores across the UK, as well as an

Experiential Marketing

easy to navigate website and mobile app (John Lewis & Partners, 2019). From 2008 the department store successfully

The department stores expanded their range of experiential personal services to create a physical shopping space that

enforced a popular click and collect service, allowing customers to order off the website and pick up in-store or

connects their customers with fun and memorable experiences , such as styling work shops and beauty packages (John

at Waitrose Supermarkets. Consumer research shows many struggle with current retail environments, through the

Lewis and Partners, 2019). For womenswear this included promoting their reimagined, and fully immersive, personal

increased touchpoint in which customers can access the garments, it will give disabled consumers increased control

shopping experience offering their customers access to VIP treatments, such as make overs and blow dries as well

of how they shop. Furthermore, as 78% of disabled consumers favour shopping in malls or department stores,

as personalised advice with the intention of making their purchases “meaningful” (John Lewis and Partners, 2019).

creating a private line within John Lewis & Partners line will complement their aim to expand their success of private

In 2019 they saw 39% increase in personal styling sales with an average spend per appointment of £383 (John Lewis

labels and cater for a new customer base (Macdonald et al, 1994). Lastly, John Lewis & Partner’s current store

and Partners, 2019). They also developed “The Beauty Studio”, an unbranded hub for skincare, beauty and fragrance

layouts are spacious and accessible for those with disabilities, meaning no large changes to infrastructure would

allowing for increased experimentation and personal impartial advice before purchasing (John Lewis and Partners,

need to be undertaken to support this new consumer (Macdonald et al, 1994).

2019).

• Like many department stores struggling in the current economic climate, in 2017 John Lewis recorded a 22% decline in profits due to their commitment to their price matching strategy competing against continuous discounting pressures, and strong external competition from online giants such as Amazon (Mak 2019; Butler, 2019). The consideration towards a disabled consumer will help to differentiate from competitors and appeal to a broader consumer base, while increasing brand awareness and positive brand association across the market. In turn, the line will aim to increase the stock value and public perception of John Lewis & Partners.

• Identifying a growing demand for private labels, by 2028 John Lewis & Partners aims to invest and build £500 million profit from private labels alone (John Lewis & Partners, 2019). Through the curation of private labels, the brand will gain increased control over discounting allowing them to generate higher profit margins, while creating an exclusive experience that directly reflects consumer needs and promotes customer loyalty (Passport, 2018; Marci, 2019).

Exemplifying the successful opportunity of private labels, despite John Lewis’s reported profit losses, their own brand womenswear grew by 5.7% in 2019 (Whelan, 2019a).

Omni-channel Approach Reduces pain points to create a frictionless experience, reduce queuing and reduce out of stock (WGSN Swim and Intimate Team, 2019).

My John Lewis App Surrounding the launch of the product line, we will implement brand deals exclusive to the My John Lewis App. This is supported by the understanding 65% of 30-35 year olds enjoy finding exclusive in app deals, 40% use apps to discover products and 31% use them for inspiration (Bernard, 2018). Through adding promotional benefits to the app it will support future product discovery and inspiration.

Mobile Purchases JLP customers want “hassle free, convenient and quick” route to purchase (John Lewis and Partners, 2019). Thus the

• Due to the brands size, John Lewis & Partners withholds significant buying power allowing for reduced production

brand invested into their delivery infrastructure and IT systems. They improved and simplified the usability of their

costs (Sutherland, 2019). This will be important when considering the financial implications of a line that specialises

mobile app, seeing a 54% increase of visits from this platform (John Lewis and Partners, 2019). They have a popular

in catering for the needs of people with disabilities. In addition it allows the brand to offer high quality products

and efficient click and collect service, allowing customers to pick up deliveries from their local John Lewis, Waitrose or

at a lower price then if the brand was an independent start up. This will be useful for targeting consumers with

Co op stores. In 2019 57% of online orders used this service.

disabilities as research presents they warrant a greater financial strain than able bodied consumers.

92

93

Appendix 4. Brand Development After conducting market and consumer research, I began to create an in-depth understanding of the brand narrative I wanted to create. The market audit for accessible lingerie showed, unlike mainstream brands, many lacked a strong Covid 19: John Lewis and Partners

visual identity or market presence. They failed to present a brand narrative consumers would want to invest in or be

John Lewis and Partners, as well as their competitive department stores, have long reported profit struggles, due to

associated with. The physical and psychological distinction between accessible underwear brands and those of able

changing consumer preferences. In their full-year trading update 12-month review finishing on the 16th April 2020, they

bodied consumers is understood to damage the consumers concept of self. Thus, it was imperative to create a strong

reported a 23% profit drop year on year (Fish 2020b). Previous to the implications of Covid 19, John Lewis Partnership's

narrative and brand vision that the target consumer would openly invest and promote.

chairman Sharon White emphasised the company were continuously reviewing their brick and mortar offering to ensure they could successfully serve their customers, remain commercially viable and stay financially sustainable. Due to

With consideration towards our consumer and market research, it was important that the branding appealed to a broad

the unclear economic repercussions of the pandemic, reports suggest after lockdown is lifted, there is uncertainty

age demographic. Age is becoming less linked to peoples style and purchase motivations. In addition, the collection

surrounding all 50 stores reopening and whether they will implement store closures (Fish, 2020a). Nevertheless, due to

aims to help people with both permanent and temporary mobility impairments. Core to the brand philosophy is helping

the implemented lockdown and temporary store closures, the online sales of John Lewis have increased 84% year on

women through all stages of their life.

year since the middle of March until 21st April (Fish, 2020b). Unfortunately, the increased sales are amongst low-profit items and consumers are increasingly restricted to make larger purchases (Fish, 2020b). To further cover the losses as a

Branding

result of Covid 19 JLP have implemented numerous steps to preserve the liquidity of the business, some of which include

• Convey our values and beliefs

reducing marketing spend by £100million, and lowering planned stock intake. In addition, they have launched virtual

• Create a connection

services including one-to-one video appointments with personal stylists, free virtual nursery decoration appointments

• Generate emotional response and reassurance

and virtual home design, as well as Q&As with the experts via Instagram. Through digitising these services, they are

• Consistency, loyalty

maintaining their priority of customer service, promoting consumer loyalty and aiming to increase sales of larger priced items. Furthermore, this modernises the brand's channel to the consumer.

Furthermore, the product line aims to aid people with both permanent and temporary mobility issues, such as during

On reflection of the current situation I still believe the brand proposal for adaptive lingerie is suitable and applicable

times of pregnancy or injury meaning the brand aesthetic needed to appeal to women at all stages of their life. For

within the current market. It has the opportunity to expand the customer base and increase consumer loyalty amongst

the nature of the brand, it was important to be perceived as meaningful and authentic. Therefore, it was important the

women with disabilities. Due to uncertainty surrounding store reopening and limitations on stock, I have decided to

marketing strategy focused on pushing stories and not products to the consumer (Sherman, 2019). With consideration

reduce the amount of stores that will initially carry the line. Consumers will still be able to access the lingerie online

towards our consumer, it was important that the branding appealed to a broad age demographic. Furthermore, the

and get it delivered either to home, or via click and collect to where they live. Lingerie is typically not an item of apparel

product line aims to aid people with both permanent and temporary mobility issues, such as during times of pregnancy

women like to purchase online. To minimise returns and pain points within the purchasing process we will employ a

or injury meaning the brand aesthetic needed to appeal to women at all stages of their life.

simplified sizing system, online sizing tutorials and the opportunity for one to one virtual appointments.

94

95

Appendix 5. Product Development Within my original concept, importance was placed upon the design of the lingerie. The original design was going to take inspiration from brands such as Agent Provocateur to create a sexy aesthetic, as there were no garments of this nature on the market for disabled women. However, research into current trends within the lingerie market pre and post the pandemic showed a large emphasis upon comfortability. ‘Seamless’, ‘comfort’ and ‘bralette’ were keywords identified in searches that have increased over the past few years, all predicted to be further accelerated by the outbreak of Covid 19 (Fenton et al, 2020). To focus solely on the sexual appeal of the garment may appear dated and limit the wear by the consumer. As the underwear will carry a mid-level pricing strategy, it is important the consumer is reassured they will get their intended wear from the products, making them a staple in their wardrobe.

As social interaction is reducing and people are focusing on their personal wellbeing, feeling beautiful within one’s body will gain even more importance. Obtaining everyday luxury within the design of the lingerie will be key for this demographic (Muston et al, 2020). Research into John Lewis consumer depicted their female consumers having an “eye for detail and a taste for luxury… investing in quality…that transcends the seasons” (John Lewis and Partners, 2019).

This helped to curate the timeless, elegant style the line will reflect. I have further outline product research into current trends within the lingerie market that were considered within the design of the lingerie.

Comfort: There are multiple drivers that show comfort as a key differentiator for Mooi’s demographic. Firstly, research shows people with a disability and older women spend more time at home than their able bodied peers and therefore prioritise comfortability from their apparel. In addition, lifestyle changes caused by the current pandemic will further drive the focus on the home, as well as a hyper-focused awareness of personal wellbeing (Bell and Owen, 2020; Fenton et al, 2020). Increased research supports the growing demand for comfortable lingerie, for instance product descriptions for bras referencing ‘comfort’ has increased by 14% year on year within retail (Fenton et al, 2020). Women are therefore favouring unwired, unlined options with reduced support (Fenton et al, 2020). To reduce scratching and irritation, the designs will be seamless with the care and sizing information printed onto the inner layer.

Antimicrobial Fabrics: Accelerated by health scares surrounding the outbreak of coronavirus, there has been an increased focus on antimicrobial and anti viral textiles, such as applying anti-viral compounds to cotton (Bell and Owen, 2020).

This will be important for the design of lingerie and offer through implementing additional attention to hygiene will

Identified design features:

ensure the consumer understands the underwear is of high quality.

• Side or front fastenings • No labels of back clasps on bras for increased comfort

Sizing: Predictions for post pandemic suggest John Lewis and Partners will have fewer stores and consumers will increasingly be purchasing clothing online. Currently, women prefer to purchase lingerie in-store due to the additional

• Hook and eye fasteners can be fiddly for women with limited mobility in their fingers, magnetic clasps proved popular alternative

fitting service brands provide and the ability to try before they buy (Fenton et al, 2020). The systems will follow a

• Skin friendly materials (moisture wicking, anti-microbial, cotton, nylon or spandex)

number system (1-8) as it is more inclusive than XS-XXL. Smarter, simplified sizing systems are being employed to boost

• No underwire and softer cups

consumer confidence within online purchases. In turn, fewer SKUs (stock keeping units) allow for reduced overstock and

• Stretch to adapt to different sizes

fewer returns (Fenton et al, 2020). To ensure one size can fit and adapt between multiple cup sizes or body shapes it will

• Women want discreet yet functional fasteners that don’t distract from the design of the garment. Needs to look like

rely on hyper-stretch fabric technology and well researched, data driven grading systems. The research behind the bras

normal lingerie

will take a research-led approach using 3D body scans to develop a simple size chart that works for all women. Within the marketing it will emphasise that reduced sizing does not mean the garments will be ill fitting. Women's breast size

The collection took inspiration from WGSN AW21/22 Style Trend ‘Conscious Clarity’ (Lynch, 2020). The trend takes into

can naturally change around a cup size a month, smarter sizing addresses this and ensures a comfortable fit (Fenton et

consideration the environmental and wellbeing concerns of a modern consumer through minimal and clean silhouettes

al, 2020). Furthermore, women with disabilities are understood to need a wider size range, by simplifying the sizing it

that depict a timeless elegance, allowing the pieces to transcend seasons. As well as incorporating soft, natural fibres

should boost consumer confidence and reduce returns.

and non toxic dyes. A key aspect of the trend is the floral prints and embroideries.

96

97

Appendix 6. Accesible Retail

Appendix 7. Campaign Research

82% of millennials claim a brands physical store is important to their shopping experience (Bernard, 2012). In addition,

Choosing the Campaigns.

women favour purchasing underwear from physical stores rather than online (Fenton et al, 2020). Nevertheless, copious

Choosing to conduct the launch event to accompany my product launch seemed an obvious choice for a John Lewis and

evidence supports the recognition current retail environments don’t appropriately cater towards disabled consumers

Partners brand launch. The company pride themselves on offering an experiential experience to their customers and

(Klerk and Ampousah, 2003; Kaufman-Scarborough, 2001). Research shows the the lack of mainstream stores that

often host events to maintain consumer loyal and interest. However, the in depth research process, development of a

cater towards women with disabilities has a detrimental impact on their self concept, and therefore their purchasing

product line and the subsequent events were costly marketing strategies. To ensure the project remained within budget

habits (Chang et al, 2013).

I decided to choose to implement an Instagram strategy and promote a brand podcast. These were both influenced by the current pandemic, as since we are in lockdown there has been a distinct rise in online content and podcast

The inconvenience of shopping and poor accessibility of both the physical and digital retail experiences, results in

consumption (Podnews, 2020).

reduced motivation to shop competitively (Hawkins and Bishop, 2019). Therefore, those who successfully implement consideration towards consumers with disabilities needs, are rewarded with a loyal and dedicated consumer base

Influencer Marketing.

(CMA, 2018). Through improving the retail options and experience for disabled consumer it has the desired opportunity

Influencer marketing is valued as a $10bn industry in 2020 (WGSN Intimates and Swim, 2019). There has been an active

to increase their consumer loyalty and perception, while greatly improving the life satisfaction of this demographic.

shift in the effectiveness of this marketing strategy to form engagement and result in purchases due to growing scepticism.

Identifying the rate of engagement as a key factor, new research has shown the micro influencer (around 5k followers)

Kaufman-Scarborough (2001) identify the many barriers and obstacles consumers with disabilities face within their

have higher levels of engagement per post, than the mega influencers of the industry (WGSN Intimates and Swim,

customer journey to purchase. The architecture and layout of the retail environment must be fully accessible and

2019). Their smaller following has allowed them to create a niche community perceived as authentic and trustworthy.

spacious, with further consideration towards the text, colour choice, sounds, scents and lighting of the surrounding

Consumer research into disabled women has shown many gain information regarding retailer recommendations through

setting and visual aids (Kaufman-Scarborough, 2001). It is noted that those with disabilities do not always follow the

specific online communities formed on platforms such as Facebook, Instagram or forums, offering a credible source

traditional decision making process as their able bodied peers so consideration must be made into the customer journey.

from people who understand their perspective, in addition to social interactions (Annette-Hitchcock and Xu, 2015).

Furthermore, 94% of Consumers say friends recommendations are more effective than celebrities (WGSN Intimates

As previously noted, through launching as an in house label within John Lewis & Partners, the department stores current

and Swim, 2019). Consideration for blogs and influencers to target within the marketing strategy needed to ensure they

infrastructure both in their brick and mortar stores and online already provide good building blocks for an accessible

offered a trusted, independent narration. I reviewed the motivation and content focus of the platforms to ensure they

brand.

suited the consumer.

98

99

Image References.

Figure 1.

Pinterest. [no date]. Bra Clasps. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from:https://i.pinimg.com/ originals/42/50/1c/42501c9f6a7187d73e52eef1238ae414.jpg Figure 2.

CUUP. 2020. Wash Your Hands – Then Hand-Wash Your Bras. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://shopcuup.com/blogs/bodytalk/wash-your-hands-then-hand-wash-your-bras Figure 3.

Vitto, K. 2018. Body experiments 1. [Online]. [Accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/ Bp96GjEDrso/

Podcasts In recent years more and more fashion brands, both luxury and high street (such as Pretty little thing, Gucci, Maison Margiela and Coach) are investing in the medium of podcasts within their marketing strategies. Through creating a podcast to support the launch of our lingerie collection, we hope to offer an authentic glimpse behind the scenes,

Figure 4.

regarding the inspiration and motivation behind the brand and collection to tell an in-depth yet intimate story. This will

Vitto, K. 2018. Body Experiments 2. [Online]. [Accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/

allow for increased control over the brand narrative, and high levels of curation.

Bp948uqDbeL/

Target Audience:

Figure 5.

According to Offcom (2019), 7.1 million people (1 in 8) in the UK listen to podcasts each week

No Author. No Date. Finding beauty in disability. [Online]. [Accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://

The medium is increasingly popular amongst the 24-54 demographic, with people listening to an average 7 podcasts a

newhorizons2014.wordpress.com/category/uncategorized/

week (Schiffer, 2019). Although they traditionally more popular with men, the female total monthly listenership increased 14% in 2018 (Schiffer, 2019).Therefore, podcasts target a demographic of female customers with disposable income

Figure set 6. Own Illustration.

that is appropriate for our brand. The audience is often better educated, more affluent and more interest in culture, enjoying listening to podcasts of their commutes or to unwind in the evening (Winn, 2020; Gaffney, 2019).

Figure 7.

Anon. [No date]. Aesthetic portrait. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://i.pinimg.com/ originals/33/a4/03/33a403970ac70a56b42327deb71c89f6.jpg

Strengths: As everyone, despite their age, are spending increased time on their phones, podcasts allow brands to further integrate their brand experience onto our mobile devices (Dimitrova, 2019). Nevertheless, they support the growing drive to

Figure 8.

unwind and reduce screen time (Gaffney, 2019).

Kava Gorna. 2020. Underwear. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: http://www.kavagorna.com/

Supporting the growing trend of ‘lifelong learners’ podcasts engage with an educated and affluent fashion audience,

lingerie

who want a greater insight into values and approaches their brands take (Entsight, 2019).

They allow customers an immersive audio experience into a brands core story and message. While also allowing the

Figure 9.

brand complete control over their content.

Lonely Lingerie. 2019. Mercy Brewer. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/

Podcasts have a low barrier to entry as the investment is often low. The inexpensive extension allows brands to

en_au/article/9kbqde/five-minutes-with-mercy-brewer-lonely-lingeries-56-year-old-muse

experiment with the medium without an increased risk. It is estimated overall cost for production for a podcast series to be around $5000 (Entsight, 2018).

Figure 10.

Offer the advantage of frequent engagement with their audience, as once the person subscribes the episodes are

Lonely Lingerie. [No date]. Lonely lingerie image. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://

automatically downloaded to the podcast platform. Furthermore, the engagement is quality, allowing the brand full

thebeholdr.com/2018/02/the-many-reasons-so-much-lingerie-just-doesnt-fit-anymore/

control over the narrative and experience (Schiffer, 2019).

Allow brands to reach a wider audience, slightly different to who they would usually target on Instagram which can be

Figure 11. Own Images.

oversaturated, however the distinctions are blurred (Gaffney, 2019).

Creates an intimate relationship with the listener, allowing them an insight into the behind the scenes motivations of the

Figure 12.

brand, presenting their strategies as meaningful and purposeful (Gaffney 2019).

Skims. 2020. Instagram Post. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/ skims/

Weaknesses: Many fashion podcasts are not listed on Apple Podcasts or Acast’s top series lists due to challenges of maintaining

Figure 13

success and long term engagement over a longer period of time. This is often due to the niche topic.

CUUP. 2019. Instagram post. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/

Podcast market is becoming highly saturated. In 2018 Apple confirmed 550,000 podcasts on their platform, by April

cuup/

2020 there is currently over a million (Winn, 2020).

They do not offer the broadest reach tactic. The conversion rate from brand to podcast audience usually initially only

Figure 14

attracts the most dedicated of customers (Schiffer, 2019). Nevertheless, due to flawed metrics and analytics, research

Unsplash. [No date]. Shadow. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://unsplash.com/wallpapers/

shows it is more lucrative for a brand to launch their own podcast than to advertise on someone else's.

100

101

design/textured Figure set 15.

Freepik. [No date]. Business infographics. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.freepik. com John Lewis and Partners. [No date]. Logo. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www. johnlewis.com/ Figure Set 16.

www.thegoodliteraryagency.org/authors/penny-pepper/

Freepik. [No date]. Business infographics. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.freepik. com

Jordan Bone. 2019. Instagram post. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram. com/jbone89/

John Lewis and Partners. [No date]. Logo. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www. johnlewis.com/

Grace Mandeville. 2018. Instagram Post. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram. com/gracemandeville/

Figure 17.

No Author. [No Date]. Flower Print. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.google. com/imgres?imgurl=https://n.sinaimg.cn/sinacn20115/704/w1024h1280/20200302/fd0f-iqfqmat4314013. jpg&imgrefurl=https://k.sina.cn/article_2047708327_p7a0d8ca702700kwx9.html?from%3Dphoto&h=1280&w=1024 &tbnid=-AGdUuvMJB6rgM&tbnh=251&tbnw=201&usg=AI4_-kRghZ1UFl8xieSBlg7v9xSevqU9uw&vet=1&docid=XjE rtKSz7Ao8PM&hl=en-GB

Independent. 2009. Francesca Martinez. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www. independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/francesca-martinez-a-wobbly-girls-battle-against-the-last-taboo-1816861. html Renata Jazdzyk. 2019. Instagram Post. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.instagram. com/venswifestyle/

Figure 18. Own Image.

The guardian. 2017. Mary Berry. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/ culture/2017/feb/21/mary-berry-says-she-was-never-asked-to-go-with-bake-off-to-c4

Figure 19. Own Image.

Figure Set 27.

Figure 20. Own Image.

Wardorf, B. 2016. Pitsou Kedem Architects. [Online]. [Accessed 3 December 2019]. Available from: https://image. architonic.com/imgArc/project-1/4/5209645/frch-design-worldwidesaks-fifth-avenue-architonic-frch-saks-toronto-

Figure 21. Own Image.

06-hdr-05.jpg

Figure 22. Own Image.

Wagner, U. 2015. Calvin Klein Underwear Wholesale Women’s Concept 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 3 December 2019].

Available from: https://www.uliwagner.com/portfolio/

Figure 23. Own Image.

John Lewis. 2019. womenwear. [Online]. [Accessed 3 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/

Figure list 24.

Freepik. [No date]. Business infographics. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.freepik. com John Lewis and Partners. [No date]. Logo. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www. johnlewis.com/

article/john-lewis-oxford-street-fashion-revamp Country Road. 2019. Country Road Make Sustainability The Height Of Luxury. [Online]. [Accessed 3 December 2019].

Available from: https://thedesignfiles.net/2019/08/shopping-country-road-chadstone-eco-store/ The Daily Edited. The Daily Edited Flagship. [Online]. [Accessed 3 December 2019]. Available from: https://www. yellowtrace.com.au/the-daily-edited-melbourne-flagship-pattern-studio/

Figure 25. Own Image.

Luk. 2019. Milan Design Week 2019: Making future design and architecture accessible to all. [Online]. [Accessed 3

Figure Set 26.

December 2019]. Available from: https://kadk.dk/nyheder/milano-2019-fremtidens-arkitektur-og-design-skal-vaere-

Kelly Knox. 2020. Twitter Icon. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://twitter.com/itskellyknox BBC. 2012. Dame Sarah Storey. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://www.bbc.co.uk/ programmes/profiles/5tmrpY3gNRMMSm1DDHDBtBY/dame-sarah-storey-dbe The Good Literary Agency. [No Date]. Penny Pepper. [Online]. [Date accessed 12 May 2020]. Available from: https://

102

tilgaengeligt-alle?gallery=31069&image=64962 Figure 28. Own Image.

Figure 29. Own Image.

Figure 30. Own Image.

103

References.

Bell, A. And Owen, S. 2020. Post Coronavirus: Future proofing you brand. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 April 2020].

December 2019]. Available from: https://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2019/01/17/where-millennials-end-and-

Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86779/page/28

generation-z-begins/

Bernard, J. 2018. Six Ways Millennials And Gen Z Shop With Smartphones.[Online]. [Date accessed 25 April 2020].

Edwards, A. 2013. The south is the best place to be: People are more likely to struggle with disabilities and health

Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2018/07/24/six-ways-millennials-and-gen-z-

problems if they live in the north. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/

shop-with-smartphones/#10102bdd3dbe

news/article-2511608/The-south-best-place-People-likely-struggle-disabilities-health-problems-live-north.html

Bibliography

Entsight, 2019. How fashion brands can join the podcast revolution. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from:

Blue Cross Blue Shield. 2019. The Economic Consequences of Millennial Health. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October

https://entsight.com/blog/how-can-fashion-brands-can-join-the-podcast-revolution

2019]. Available from: https://www.bcbs.com/the-health-of-america/reports/how-millennials-current-and-future-

Feather, B. Vann, J. And O’Bannons, P. 1989. Clothing-related risk perceptions of disabled men and women at point

health-could-affect-our-economy

of purchase. Journal of Consumer Study and Home Economics. 13(1), pp. 313-326.

BoF and McKinsey. 2018. State of Fashion 2019. [Online]. London: McKinsey & Company. [Accessed 26 December

Fenton, C. Lynch, J. And Hall, L. 2020. Post-Coronavirus: The Bra - Design Priorities. [Online]. [Date accessed 25

2019]. Available from: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2019-a-year-of-

April 2020]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86886/page/1

awakening

Fenton, C. Lynch, J. And Hall, L. 2020. Post-Coronavirus: The Bra - Design Priorities. [Online]. [Date accessed 25

Brown, J; Apostolova, V; Barton, C; Bolton, P; Dempsey, N; Harari, D; Hawkins, O; McGuinn, F. 2017. Millennials.

[Online]. London: Parliament. [Accessed 26 December 2019]. Available from: https://researchbriefings.parliament.uk/ ResearchBriefing/Summary/CBP-7946

April 2020]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86886/page/1 Fish, I. 2020a. John Lewis chair assesses post lockdown store estate. [Online]. [Accessed 30 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/news/john-lewis-chair-assesses-post-lockdown-store-estate/7040290.

Butler, S. 2019. John Lewis unveils first-ever half-year loss. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2019/sep/12/john-lewis-warns-of-no-deal-brexit-impact

article?blocktitle=Latest-News&contentID=15719 Fish, I. 2020b. John Lewis online sales and profits up. [Online]. [Accessed 30 April 2020]. Available from: https://

Carter, R; Lowles, N. 2019. Fear & Hope 2019: How Brexit is changing who we are. [Online]. London: Fear not

www.drapersonline.com/news/john-lewis-online-sales-and-profits-up/7040193.article?blocktitle=Latest-

Hate Charitable Trust. [Accessed 18 October 2019]. Available from: https://www.hopenothate.org.uk/wp-content/

News&contentID=15719

uploads/2019/07/fear-and-hope-report-2019-07-final-1.pdf

Friend, H. 2019. Where mindful influencers are going wrong. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from:

Chang, H. Hodges, N. And Yurchisin, J. 2014. Consumers with Disabilities: A Qualitative Exploration of Clothing Selection and Use Among Female College Students. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 32(1). 34-48.

https://www.lsnglobal.com/opinion/article/23685/where-mindful-influencers-are-going-wrong Funk, C; Hefferron, M. 2019. Millennial and Gen Z Republicans stand out from their elders on climate and energy

Chang, H. Hodges, N. And Yurchisin, J. 2014. Consumers With Disabilities: A Qualitative Exploration of Clothing

issues. [Online]. [Accessed December 2019]. Available from: https://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2019/11/25/

Selection and Use Among Female College Students. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 32(1), pp. 34-48

younger-republicans-differ-with-older-party-members-on-climate-change-and-energy-issues/

Chang, H. Yurchisin, J. And Hodges, N. 2013. An Investigation of Self-Concept, Clothing Selection, and Life

Gapper, J. 2018. How millennials became the worlds most powerful consumers. [Online]. [Accessed 24 October

Satisfaction among Disabled Consumers. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal. 42(2), pp.162-176

2019]. Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/194cd1c8-6583-11e8-a39d-4df188287fff

Clark, D. 2019a. United Kingdom: Millennial population in 2018, by age. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from:

Gapper, J. 2018. How millennials became the worlds most powerful consumers. [Online]. [Accessed 24 October

https://www.statista.com/statistics/630938/uk-millennial-population-by-age/

2019]. Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/194cd1c8-6583-11e8-a39d-4df188287fff

Clement, J. 2019. U.S. Baby Boomers: social media reach 2019. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 April 2020]. Available

Gransnet. 2019. Advertising to over 50s. [Online]. [Accessed 23 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.

from: https://www.statista.com/statistics/436417/us-baby-boomer-selected-social-networks/

gransnet.com/pdf/gransnet-presentation-ageism-in-advertising.pdf

CMA. 2018. Research and analysis: Markets that work well for disabled people. [Online]. [Accessed 28 November

Hitchcock, K. and Xu, Y. 2015. Shopping and virtual communities for consumers with physical disabilities.

2019]. Available from: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vulnerable-consumers/markets-that-work-well-

International Journal of Consumer Studies. 39(2015). 136-144

for-disabled-people--2

Hong, Y. Bruniaux, P. Zeng, X. Liu, K. Chen, Y. And Dong, M. 2017. Virtual reality based collaborative design method

CMA. 2018. Research and analysis: Markets that work well for disabled people. [Online]. [Accessed 28 November

for designing customised garment for disabled people with scoliosis. International Journal of Clothing Science and

2019]. Available from: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vulnerable-consumers/markets-that-work-well-

Technology. 29(2), pp. 226-237

for-disabled-people--2

House of Lords. 2018. Disability in the UK: Rights and Policy. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from:

Daneshkhu, S. 2018. How millennials’ taste for ‘authenticity’ is disrupting powerful food brands. [Online]. [Accessed 28 November 2019]. Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/09271178-6f29-11e8-92d3-6c13e5c92914\

https://researchbriefings.files.parliament.uk › documents › LLN-2018-0071 Jackson, L. 2019. Why 2019 was a landmark year for disabled fashion. [Online]. [Date accessed 10 April 2020].

Dimitrova, K. 2019. The Value of podcasts for fashion and luxury. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from:

Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/30/why-2019-was-a-landmark-year-for-disabled-

https://www.interlaced.co/article/the-value-of-podcasts-for-fashion-and-luxury-brands-1558277836

fashion

Dimock, M. 2019. Defining generations: Where Millennials end and Generation Z begins. [Online]. [Accessed 21

John Lewis & Partners. 2018. 2018 Sustainability Report. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from:

104

105

https://www.johnlewispartnership.co.uk/content/dam/cws/pdfs/our-responsibilities/2018/jlp-unlock-partner-

Muston, F. Hall, L. and Smith, K. 2020. Coronavirus: Design Priorities. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020].

potential-2017-18.pdf

Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/86626/page/1

John Lewis & Partners. 2019. Press Releases. [Online]. [Date Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from: https://

Newsbury, M. 2018. Global market review of lingerie – forecasts to 2023 - 2018. [Online]. Bromsgrove: JustStyle.

www.johnlewispresscentre.com/pressreleases

[Accessed 24th December 2019]. Available from: https://go.openathens.net/redirector/leeds.ac.uk?url=/

John Lewis and Partners. 2019. Retail report 2019: How we shop, live and look. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.google.com/

docview/2078402995?accountid=14664 Office for National Statistics. 2018b. Disability pay gaps in the UK: 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23 November 2019].

Klerk, H. And Ampousah, L. 2003. The physically disabled woman experience of self. Disability and Rehabilitation.

25(19), pp. 1132-1139.

LPL. 2019. New data reveals where in the UK the millennial generation are choosing to live. [Online]. [Accessed 21 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.lpropertylawyers.co.uk/new-data-reveals-where-in-the-uk-themillennial-generation-are-choosing-to-live/

Available from: https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/healthandsocialcare/disability/articles/ disabilitypaygapsintheuk/2018 Passport. 2018. John Lewis Partnership Plc: Global Company Profile. [Online]. [Accessed 24th December 2019].

Available from: https://www.portal.euromonitor.com/portal/Analysis/Tab Powell, A. 2019. People with disabilities in employment. [Online]. London: House of Commons. [Accessed 26

Lynch, J. 2020. Intimates Style Trend Concepts A/W 21/22: Conscious Clarity. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020]. Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/85577/page/1 Lynch, J. 2020. Intimates Style Trend Concepts A/W 21/22: Conscious Clarity. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020]. Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/85577/page/1 Lynch, J. 2020a. Intimates Style Trend Concepts A/W 21/22: Conscious Clarity. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020]. Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/85577/page/1 Lynch, J. 2020b. Women's Intimates & Loungewear: Key Items Fashion A/W 21/22. [Online]. [Date accessed 25

December 2019]. Available from: https://researchbriefings.parliament.uk/ResearchBriefing/Summary/CBP-7540 Rae, A. 2016. The Generations of the UK. [Online]. [Accessed 21 December 2019]. Available from: https://www. huffingtonpost.co.uk/alasdair-rae/the-generations-of-the-uk_b_7856198.html Schiffer, J. 2019. Why Fashion Brands Are Launching Podcasts. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/luxurys-surprising-embrace-of-the-podcast Sender, T. 2018. Womenswear UK May 2018. [Online]. London: Mintel. [Accessed 26 December 2019]. Available from: https://reports.mintel.com/display/859091/

March 2020]. Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/86477/

Skidmore, C. 2019. Universities can do more to support their disabled students. [Online]. London: Mintel. [Accessed

page/2

26 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/education/2019/jan/17/universities-can-do-more-

Macdonald, P. Majumder, R. And Bua-Iam, P. 1994. Apparel Acquisition for Consumers with Disabilities: Purchasing Practices and Barriers to Shopping. Clothing and textiles research journal. 12 (2). 38-45 Macdonald, P. Majumder, R. Bua-Iam, P. 1994. Apparel Acquisition for Consumers with Disabilities: Purchasing Practices and Barriers to Shopping. Clothing and textiles research journal. 12 (2). 38-45 Mak, G. 2019. Clothing retailing in the UK 2019. [Online]. United States: IBISWorld Ltd. [Accessed 26 December 2019]. Available from:https://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/uk/industry/ataglance.aspx?entid=3060 Marci, K. 2019. Is the traditional department store really doomed? Here’s what our data revealed. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from:https://edited.com/resources/traditional-department-store-analysis/ McGregor, R. 2018. Money Market: Millennials. [Online]. [Accessed 23 October 2019]. Available from: https://www. lsnglobal.com/markets/article/22477/money-market-millennials

to-support-their-disabled-students Stokes, B; Black, C. 2012. Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model: assessing the clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. 5(3). 179-186 Suciu, P. 2020. Social Media Is Improving Their Lives, Say Baby Boomers. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 April 2020].

Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/petersuciu/2020/01/13/social-media-is-improving-their-lives-saybaby-boomers/#353e9e5d2ee1 Sutherland, E. 2019. What's behind the all-inclusive lingerie market?. [Online]. [Accessed 23 December 2019].

Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/whats-behind-the-all-inclusive-lingeriemarket/7036829.article Sutherland, E. 2019. What's behind the all-inclusive lingerie market?. [Online]. [Accessed 23 December 2019].

Mckinsey & Company. 2017. Meeting millennials where they shop: Shaping the future of shopping malls. [Online].

Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/whats-behind-the-all-inclusive-lingerie-

[Accessed 24 October 2019]. Available From: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/capital-projects-and-

market/7036829.article

infrastructure/our-insights/meeting-millennials-where-they-shop-shaping-the-future-of-shopping-malls

Tabor, E. 2019. Can You Really Market To Gen X And Baby Boomers On Social Platforms? [Online]. [Date accessed

Mintel. 2018. Executive Summary - Online retailing 2018. [Online]. London: Mintel. [Accessed 26 December 2019].

25 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2019/12/19/can-you-really-

Available from: https://academic.mintel.com/display/859337/

market-to-gen-x-and-baby-boomers-on-social-platforms/#534ee73d5741

Mordor Intelligence. 2018. Lingerie market growth, trends, and forecasts (2019 - 2024). [Online]. [Accessed 24

The Conversation. 2018. Low expectations are stopping young disabled people going to university. [Online]. [Accessed

October 2019]. Available From: https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/lingerie-market

23 December 2019]. Available from: https://theconversation.com/low-expectations-are-stopping-young-disabled-

Muston, F. Hall, L. and Smith, K. 2020. Coronavirus: Design Priorities. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020].

Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/86626/page/1 Muston, F. Hall, L. and Smith, K. 2020. Coronavirus: Design Priorities. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020].

Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/content/board_viewer/#/86626/page/1 106

people-going-to-university-93033 The Future Laboratory. 2018c. Health and Wellness Futures 2019. [Online]. London: The Future laboratory. [Accessed 26 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.thefuturelaboratory. com/hubfs/Health%20&%20Wellness%20Futures%20Report.pdf?__hstc=249760025.

107

dc143273844fc44a317260cad9bf9659.1577539848407.1578305545519.1579096129024.15&__hssc=249760025.2.1 579096129024&__hsfp=2900904845 Tooke, J. 2020. John Lewis tops YouGov’s High Street Recommend Rankings. [Online]. [Date Accessed 14 April 2020]. Available from: https://yougov.co.uk/topics/consumer/articles-reports/2020/02/19/john-lewis-tops-yougovshigh-street-recommend-rank Vogels, E. 2019. Millennials stand out for their technology use, but older generations also embrace digital life.

[Online]. [Accessed 23 December 2019]. Available from: https://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2019/09/09/usgenerations-technology-use/ WGSN Forecast Team. 2019. Future Innovations 2022. https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/85112/ page/6 WGSN Intimates and Swim Team. 2019. Big Ideas 2021: Intimates and Swim. [Online]. [Date accessed 25 March 2020]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/81895/page/1 WGSN Macro Forecast Team. 2018. Future Innovations 2021. https://www-wgsn-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/ content/board_viewer/#/81556/page/2 WGSN. 2019. Future Innovations 2021. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from: https://lp.wgsn.com/formfuture-innovation-2021-fy19q2.html?utm_medium=email&utm_source=marketing-email&utm_future-innovation2021=wbn  Whelan, G. 2019a. Fashion at John Lewis up against 'anaemic' market. [Online]. [Accessed 12 December 2019].

Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/ Whelan, G. 2020. Coronavirus: John Lewis launches virtual services. [Online]. [Accessed 30 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/news/coronavirus-john-lewis-launches-virtual-services/7040122. article?blocktitle=Latest-News&contentID=15719 Wunderman Thompson. 2018. Elastic Generation. [Online]. [Accessed 2 April 2020]. Available from:https:// intelligence.wundermanthompson.com/trend-reports/elastic-generation-female-edit/ YouGov. 2020. John Lewis. [Online]. [Date Accessed 14 April 2020]. Available from: https://yougov.co.uk/topics/ consumer/explore/brand/John_Lewi 108

109