HANNAH LENAZ
DESIGNER FILE SPRING/SUMMER 2018
CONTENTS
BALMAIN-LOUIS VUITTON-HERMES-CELINE-LOEWE-DELPOZOOSCAR DE LA RENTA-MARCHESA-MANSUR GAVRIEL-BRANDON MAXWELL
BALMAIN
Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing About: Olivier Rousteing became head designer of Balmain in 2011 at the age of 24. He grew up in Bordeaux, France and attended Ecole Superieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode in Paris. Upon graduation in 2003, he started his career as a designer at Roberto Cavalli. In 2009 he was hired by Balmain to design women’s ready-to-wear. While working at Balmain, Rousteing quickly grew close to Christophe Decarnin, then Balmain’s creative director. After Decarnin stepped down in 2011, Olivier took his place.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Balmain Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection was full of embellishments and tassels expressing a sort of ruggedness as well as empowerment. Colors were monotone with black and white stripes and other block patterns. Oversized blazers made a major statement in the collection as well as the infamous Balmain mini dress. Ruffles were a seen all throughout the collection in unique forms expressing the silhouette of the garments. Texture was expressed through leather and mesh to bring out different patterns seen all throughout the collection.
LOUIS VUITTON
Creative Director: Nicolas Ghesquiere About: Nicolas Ghesquière grew up in France and started his fashion career at the age of 14. He began his career with an internship with the French designer agnès b. Before moving to Louis Vuitton in 2013, Ghesquière worked with Balenciaga for 15 years and prior to that he worked as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Louis Vuitton Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection brings together modernity and jacquardian style. Floral, romantic details are seen on coats all throughout the show. Many embellishments drape the dresses along the runway. Accessories include sneakers and strappy, camel toed sandals. Peasant styled shirts are also a staple in the collection.
HERMÈS
Creative Director: Pierre Alexis Dumas About: Pierre Alexis Dumas grew up in the world of Hermès being born into the founding family of the company. His father, Jean-Louis Dumas, was the creative director before him as well as CEO of the Hermès company. Alexis attended Brown University and graduated with a degree in Visual Arts. Even though he was born into the company, Alexis had to work towards creative director of Hermès.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Hermès Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection taps into masculinity. The collection was obviously inspired by oversized, menswear designs. Checked patterns and dominated the collection as well as muted colors. Oversized coats and blazers are combined with trousers to express the menswear inspiration. Accessories include embellished belts and healed, leather sandals.
CÈLINE
Creative Director: Phoebe Philo About: Phoebe Philo began her fashion career at Central Saint Martins in London, England. After graduation she worked at Chloé as an assistant to Stella McCartney in 1997. McCartney left Chloé in 2001 and soon Philo took her place as creative director. In 2006, Phoebe took a two year break to spend time with family, but soon after she accepted the role as creative director of Cèline. Phoebe Philo is known for her minimalistic designs and aesthetic. This is what makes her one of the most popular woman in the fashion industry.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Cèline Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection brings together minimalistic designs and 70’s style. While patterns from the 70’s make a statement, oversized silhouettes that you would have seen during that era are also included. For a modern twist, pops of color were added as well as leather fabrics. Accessories range from leather handbags and leather sneakers.
LOEWE
Creative Director: Johnathan Anderson About: Johnathan Anderson is Northern Ireland and studied at UAL: London College of Fashion. He originally started out acting in Washington D.C but slowly moved into menswear design. Anderson graduated in 2005 and started working for Prada as a visual merchandiser. With the help of Miuccia Prada, he began his career in menswear in 2008. Anderson quickly became a successful designer and received a sponsorship from the British Fashion Council. Soon after he collaborated with Topshop. Since his success, in 2013 LVMH hired Anderson as the creative director of Loewe.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Loewe Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection brings together whimsical designs and oversized silhouettes. 70’s inspired patterns dominate the collection as well as long tassels. Loewe’s popular leather bags are seen all throughout the collection but in geometric, woven pattern designs. The collection gives off Little House on the Prairie vibes but with a modern twist.
DELPOZO
Creative Director: Josep Font About: The Spanish designer, Josep Font was appointed creative director of Delpozo in 2012. Font went to school for architecture at Polytechnic University of Catalonia but had a strong desire to study in fashion. He started his own ready-to-wear line in 1991 and was shown in different fashion weeks around the world including Paris and Milan. When Josep Font stepped into Delpozo he decided to make a bold move and send Delpozo to New York Fashion week. Delpozo is inspired by couture collections and brings that inspiration into ready-to-wear. His designs express his architectural influence with bold designs and highly structured garments.
COLOR PALATTE
COLLECTION: The Delpozo Women Spring/Summer 2018 collection features oversized ruffles and bright, natural colors. The ruffles are put together in different shapes on each garment giving each look a bold structure. The collection features different patterns including paisley designs. While structure is seen, it is balanced out with soft, flowy fabrics. This gives the collection a relaxed mood, referencing the season.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Creative Directors: Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia About: Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are not new to the world of Oscar de la Renta but are fairly new as creative directors. Their first collection with the company was Autumn/Winter 2017 since the leaving of Peter Copping. Laura Kim has worked with Oscar de la Renta since 2003 while Fernando Garcia joined in 2009. Both left the company together in 2015, Kim as design director and Garcia as senior designer. They left and found their own design company and debuted their collection in 2016. In the end, they decided to join forces and returned to the fashion house where they both got their start. Using the lessons they learned with their own brand, the duo became creative directors of the fashion house.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2018 collection makes you feel like you have just stepped into a modern art gallery. From paint splattered denim to distressed fabrics sewn onto see-through material, each piece shows intricate detail representing a reformed de la Renta collection. When it comes to patterns, illustrations and writings are placed onto garments. Sequin dresses and tops are combined with suit pants and blazers to give each look a relaxed but feminine feeling. Finally, the collection isn’t complete without the famous Oscar de la Renta gowns. For this season, the gowns have a relaxed design but are fitted with the famous Oscar de la Renta silhouette.
MARCHESA
Creative Directors: Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman About:
Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman founded Marchesa in 2004. The two designers based their company off the iconic aristocrat marchesa casati. Chapman and Craig met each other at chelsea college of art and design. chapman got a degree in costume design while craig acquired a degree in fashion textiles and business. while chapmen went into acting, craig started working at calvin klein and dolce and gabbana as a freelance print maker. Since the launch of the company in 2004 many celebrities have stepped out in the designer label. Marchesa was also named CFDA/vogue fashion funds top ten finalist.
COLOR PALETTE
COLLECTION: The Marchesa Spring/Summer 2018 collection is full of intricate lace work and dark florals. The collection has a theme of romantic royalty with the use of the dark colors and detailed lace. The colors are very unique for Spring and Summer but do feature light greens and pinks. As you move throughout the collection, the gowns go from dark royalty to a romantic secret garden theme. Some garments feature ribbons wrapped around the waist of models in a corset design showing off the figures. Finally, strappy sandals complete the looks without taking away from the extravagant gowns.
MANSUR GAVRIEL
Creative Directors: Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur About: Mansur Gavriel launched in 2012 by Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur. Floriana is a German designer who graduated from the University of the Arts Bremen with a BFA in Fashion Design. Rachel is an American designer who graduated from Rhode Island School of Design with a BFA in Textiles. The two designers met in Los Angeles and quickly became friends and collaborators. Floriana was based in Germany and Rachel was based in Los Angeles and both took intense trips back and forth to work on their project ideas. Eventually, the pair moved to New York to start up the company Mansur Gavriel. The company launched in 2012 but the first collection debuted in 2013 and became a huge success.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Mansur Gavriel Spring/Summer 2018 collection was more than just the accessories the company is known for. It features beautiful, long coats and relaxed trousers. The garments feature light pinks and creams that give off strong Spring vibes. As the collection continues, bright reds light up the runway in oversize silhouettes. Accessories in the collection include pointed toed sandals and the famous Mansur Gavriel leather bags. The leather goods feature different styles such as round hand totes and the famous bucket bag. Each outfit in the collection defines the soft tone and style that embodies Mansur Gavriel.
BRANDON MAXWELL
Creative Director: Brandon Maxwell About: Brandon Maxwell is an American designer from Longview, Texas. He got his start in the fashion industry interning for the stylist Deborah Afshani. Maxwell is known for his job as a stylist for Lady Gaga and other big name celebrities. It wasn’t until recently when Maxwell started his own designer label in 2015. He has received numerous awards since launching his own label including the CFDA Swarovski Award. He continues to style many celebrities, but in his own works.
COLOR PALETTE
Collection: The Brandon Maxwell Spring/Summer 2018 collection embodies the sophisticated, modern woman. Each garment is clean cut and features minimal patterns. Pleated skirts make a major statement and form fitted blazers are seen all throughout the collection. For a more casual style, blazers are also seen paired with denim. While patterns are slightly used, color is what makes each garment stick out. Accessories are minimal and include slim belts and strappy, heeled sandals. The collection brings luxury and easy, sophisticated style together.