Brand Zine by hannahmcguckin

Hannah McGuckin

April 2021

2021 +

THE FUTURE OF THE LUXURY STREETWEAR MARKET

CODES

ISSUE 1

CON TEN

concept 1

concept 2

concept 3

Market

my brand

N� NTS My journey

Influences

consumer

overview

In this digital zine I aim to deconstruct the hidden meanings and codes behind my brand. I have created my brand with the aim of shining a new light on luxury streetwear through cultural commentary. My brand has a personal approach that references the importance of acceptance, which is my overall brand message. I found a gap in the luxury streetwear market between culture and luxury garments and the all-embracing representation of men. I am an active luxury streetwear consumer and feel passionate about my brand message and brand concepts alongside my influence from High Snobiety’s ‘The New Luxury’, I am confident that my brand will appeal to my chosen consumer which is Generation Z.

The journey of defining my brand started from my ‘Brand Me’ module. I was able to determine what influenced me, what brands appeal to me and what my strengths were. The summer research about myself and secondary research helped me to understand which market I fit in to and how I wanted to have a personal approach to my brand, bringing forward what is important to me. I was able to analyse myself as a creative marketer and communicator which helped me understand; what my aesthetic is and what market level I sit at and found that menswear in particular stood out to me the most. My summer ‘Brand Me’ research helped me to understand that the community I have had around me since I was younger has influenced the person that I am today. I have always been around a very supportive, positive and accepting community and am lucky to have a large loving and fortunate family. I discovered that this was a huge part of my life and as I wanted my brand to have a personal approach, I decided to bring culture and community into my design. I am a very accepting person and aim to treat everyone equally hence my brand message of acceptance. I can confidently state that my brand shows that level of acceptance through my representation of men and culture.

my journey

I have undertaken a great deal of research and critically analysed the luxury streetwear market, issues within society such as racial discrimination and mental health and the representation of men within the luxury/luxury streetwear market. This research has helped back up each of my 3 brand concepts and helped create hidden codes and messages within my brand that my consumer will relate to and feel a part of. I have explored my consumer group which is males who are members of Generation Z and I have thoroughly scrutinized every aspect of my brand in order to appeal to their needs. I have constantly referred back to High Snobiety’s prediction of ‘The New Luxury’ in order to back up the reasonings behind my brand. I discovered from an interview with High Snobiety’s Editorial Director, Jian DeLeon, that the new consumers, who are Generation Z, consider what brands they are buying into rather that what they are buying. In the interview with Forbes Jian DeLeon stated that “Consumers expect quality, purpose-driven products, and a degree of cultural credibility from their purchases.” (DeAcetis, 2019). Therefore, I am confident that my brand will appeal to Generation Z as there is a sense of meaning and culture around my brand which effectively shines a new light on cultural commentary through luxury streetwear.

I have 3 brand concepts that each reference important factors based around my whole brand message of acceptance and the aim of shinning a new light on cultural commentary. I have researched around each concept and created hidden codes throughout my brand that back up each concept to help create a connection and relationship that my consumers can have with my brand.

06 Concept 1

Throughout my research I found it interesting how in May 2020 after the tragedy of the death of George Floyd many fashion brands donated to charities and foundations to help support the black community. However, since then I have noticed a decline in the number of fashion brands that donate to relatable causes as often. This is an issue in itself and I want to spread the importance of this through my brand and create the awareness that is needed for those donations to actively continue to help support racial inequality. BLM is not a trend. I represent my brand concept of social consciousness in many ways throughout my brand and campaign.

Social Conciousness

My first concept is social consciousness, this is the aim of being socially aware of those around us and how we treat each other within society. I have researched a lot into racial discrimination and the inequality within society that people face each day. One of the main elements that I have researched into is the Black Lives Matter movement and how black people in America are over-represented within the criminal justice system. Unfortunately, it is places like America where many Black people experience extreme police misconduct and violation of their civil rights. Police brutality is a re-occurring issue and “1 in 1000 black men can expect to be killed by police in their lifetime” (Hagler, 2015). To help back up my message of acceptance and brand concept of social consciousness I used multi-cultural models in my brand campaign and used hidden codes and messages within my styling that back up the research around my concept of social consciousness.

FU** NY

* the PD

WE ARE THE ONES WE’ VE BEEN WAITING FOR. WE ARE THE CHANGE THAT WE SEEK.

16 Concept 2

PROTECTION

My second brand concept is protection, this is with the intent to spread awareness of the protection of one’s mental health and the protection that men have towards each other. This is also to consider ways my consumers can protect the environment around them. I have researched into mental health and the stigma that is around speaking up about the struggles around mental health that is particularly with men. I have discovered that the pandemic has had a large impact on people’s mental health that has consequently lead to a rise in suicide rates. From my findings I have discovered that the rate of suicide rates per 100,000 has been the highest since the year 2000 and has been significantly higher in men compared to females. It is now more than ever that we need to end the stigma around mental health and help protect those around us. I hope to spread the message of protection and represent the models within my brand campaign in a positive yet sensitive way. Sadly, when exploring issues around mental health I discovered that Black, Asian and ethnic minority demographics experience a disadvantage within the health care system particularly around mental health.

I discovered from a reliable secondary source that black people are more likely to be detained under the Mental Health Act, yet more white people receive treatment for mental health issues than people from BAME backgrounds and in consequence have better outcomes (Illness, 2021). As stated previously my consumer has been at the forefront of every aspect of my brand. I decided to create a questionnaire and dispersed it to males that are members of Generation Z, this was because I believed that I would gain reliable data from an anonymous questionnaire. Evidenced by appendix 1, I have discovered that 92% of my participants think that there is a stigma within the luxury streetwear market where males are represented almost over exaggerating their masculinity. This was such an important finding as it backs up the reason why I wanted to represent men in a more sensitive way that still represents them in an overall positive way. The luxury streetwear market almost always represents men in a very tough way thus my reason behind subverting the conventional representations and continuing to showcase my aim of shinning a new light on luxury streetwear.

we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we

stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand stand

together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together together

We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together we stand together We stand together We stand together we stand together we stand together

We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We we we We

20 Concept 3

COMMUNITY

Community is my third brand concept; I have always had a positive and accepting community around me and I wanted to bring this forward in my brand. My brand message is acceptance and in order to adhere to this I think that creating a positive and accepting community around my brand is vital. I have considered ways in which I can create a positive community around my brand which I have effectively achieved through my social media campaign and my campaign overall. I have been influenced by designers Samuel Ross and Craig Green who both take into consideration the community that has influenced them and how they can then translate this in their designs. For example, Craig Green has always had family around him who have had manual labour jobs and often wore uniform. He now has a utilitarian approach to his designs which is something that I have considered within my styling to reference class structure and that sense of community. Nicholas Daley and Botter are also two brands that I have paid close attention to as they both successfully combine their culture with luxury wear and experiment the element of clashing cultures. I have considered this throughout my brand and styling for my brand campaign and have successfully achieved the element of class structure, elements of uniform and overall sense of community.

My brand sits within the luxury streetwear market. I have combined elements of streetwear with luxury wear and I have been heavily influenced by High Snobiety’s book called ‘The New Luxury’ which is what High Snobiety predict to be the future of the luxury market. This book explains how luxury brands are adopting streetwear elements into their designs more and the changes that we should expect to see from the luxury market. This was very important to me as I am focusing on the new consumer, which is Generation Z, I had to consider what the future of luxury will be and what Generation Z want from a brand. I found it interesting how this book discusses how luxury brands are becoming more influenced from the ground up, as they are adopting streetwear elements within their designs. This is instead of the process of the trickle-down effect that we typically see from trends that start at the luxury brand level and trickle their way down to streetstyle. I have had to consider the effects that leaving the EU will have on the luxury fashion market as zero-tariff and zero-quota trade for luxury goods between the EU and Britain has been implemented. Leaving the EU will have multiple effects on the Luxury market, I think now will be the time that brands have to really consider their consumer’s needs and wants in order to make sure that they keep their loyal customers.

24 Market

I discovered from “The New Luxury” book by High Snobiety that there is a shift in consumers who buy into the luxury fashion market. There are more members from Generation Z who buy from luxury fashion brands that want to be able to have a connection and relationships with the brands that they buy into. The new consumers, who are Generation Z have become more aware of the brands that they are buying into rather than just focusing on what they are buying, by considering the brand’s values and other elements such as sustainability and being conscious of how often they purchase products. I have also had to consider the uncertainties and changes that the pandemic has created and therefore, continued to stay up to date with changes within the industry and what the future could hold. I am confident that my brand is the future of luxury streetwear as it includes elements of culture and hidden meanings and messages that will allow my consumers to have a connection with the brand. My brand concepts help shape the narrative around my brand and creates a sense of acceptance for all.

28 my Brand

My brand has many hidden codes and messages that will ultimately resonate with my consumers hence why I decided to call my brand and social media campaign Resonate. The narrative around Resonate is current and helps showcase the importance of the codes and meanings of my 3 brand concepts. My brand campaign concept is “This is Not a Trend” which refers to the hidden codes and meanings throughout my 3 brand concepts. It connotes that there is more to my campaign than just a brand, it is a message and a movement that can’t go unmissed. My brand and my campaign reference important issues within society such as racial discrimination and issues surrounding mental health. My brand represents men in a positive and uplifting way which is translated in my visual brand campaign. A common denominator throughout my brand aesthetic is the use of grey tape. I have used the use of the grey tape to represent and signifying piecing the important factors of my brand together and for my consumers to stick together and unite.

RESONATE

The feeling of my brand is sensitive and accepting in a positive way. Throughout the development of my brand, I wanted to represent men in a more sensitive and emotional way to subvert from the typical conventions we expect to see within the luxury streetwear market, where men are often represented by over exaggerating their masculinity. This backed up by brand concept of protection and the importance of men protecting each other’s mental health and supporting one another. Through the process of my brand development, I tested lots of ways that I could convey this more sensitive representation. I was inspired by photographer Rafael Pavarotti, who had photographed men holding delicate flowers in Dior’s S/S21 campaign. I tested the use of using a flower however, I soon came to the conclusion that this was a very obvious way to represent a more sensitive element and I knew I could push my ideas further. This was a lightbulb moment for me as I considered alternative ways of showcasing that level of sensitivity and came to the conclusion of using the element of juxtaposition.

I created graffitied protest boards and tested photographing them in a field full of flowers which ultimately juxtaposed the setting that we would typically expect to see graffiti boards. I was happy with my testing and knew that the element of juxtaposition is what I wanted to translate within my brand. In regard to the element of juxtaposition, I later did a test shoot to consider my visual communication for my brand campaign. I used a country house setting which additionally subverts against the conventional locations that we expect to see from a luxury streetwear brand. The use of the country house location helped transpire the element of juxtaposition which helped comprehend my vision for my brand campaign. I have been heavily influenced by Tim Walker and how he uses items or objects and takes them out of context. I was particularly inspired by the use of gold frames that he used in Louis Vuitton’s FW20 campaign Heaven on Earth”. Consequently, I tested creating visuals using gold frames which were very effective and showed that sense of juxtaposition through the traditional gold frames against the streetwear styling, representing the old against the new. At this stage I knew that I wanted to transfer the element of using gold frames throughout my brand aesthetic.

Botter

influencers

Supreme

Noah

palace

Vetements

A Cold Wall

Craig Green

Nicholas Daley

Bethany Williams

40 Consumer

Gen Z My consumer group have been the focal point for my whole brand and campaign as I aimed to create a brand that they feel connected to. My consumer group is males who are members of Generation Z. I have considered my consumers at every aspect of my band in order to make sure that my brand appeals to them and meets their needs. I have conducted a great extent of both primary and secondary research to really extend my understanding of my consumer. Included within my research I created a survey that I directed towards my consumer group, from this I gained lots of detailed and honest opinions on the topic of mental health, their opinion on the representation of men within the luxury streetwear market. I knew by creating an anonymous survey that I would gain reliable and honest responses that would help define my brand and allow myself to critically analyse my brand against consumer groups opinions and needs.

Another pivotal point of my research was my analysis of ‘a day in the life’ of a male who is a member of Generation Z. I asked one of my close friends to document his day which he later shared with me. This gave me a huge insight into what this particular member of my consumer group prioritises throughout the day, I noticed that he was health conscious, hard-working and entrepreneurial as he balanced his university work with his small independent business. I also discovered that he was sociable and communicated with his friends of an evening, albeit socialising through digital forms of communication. I feel confident that I have a strong understanding of my consumer group and can effectively promote my brand and campaign to my chosen audience.

Fight it, or accept it. Fear it, or control it.

42 overview

During my campaign I wanted to promote my brand message of acceptance and define my 3 brand concepts which are Social Consciousness, Protection and Community. I wanted to showcase that the campaign concept ‘This is Not a Trend’ highlights the importance of my brand and the hidden meanings and codes that will resonate with my consumers. My fashion film will create emotion and hopefully uplift and allow my consumers to accept and express their cultural background as well as their emotions and stand together in the positive community that is around my brand. My campaign shines a new light on luxury streetwear through cultural commentary focusing on my consumers needs and wants. My campaign is in keeping with my overall brand aesthetic and colours and will represent men in a positive way. Alongside my visual fashion film and lookbook I aim to create a social media campaign that will help create a positive community around my brand.

Open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes Open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes Open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open Open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes Open your open your eyes your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes Open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your

open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open eyes open your your eyes Open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open Open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes Open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes Open open your eyes eyes open your open your eyes your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your

open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open Open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes Open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes Open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your open your eyes your eyes open Open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes open your your eyes open open your eyes eyes Open your

open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open Open your eyes open your eyes open Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes Open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open your eyes open

Overall, my brand has developed a great deal since my brand me module. My brand references key issues we face in society each day and aims to allow consumers to feel accepted for who they are within society. My brand is not a trend, it references a cultural change that cannot go unnoticed and therefore will hopefully translate into the luxury fashion market in the future. At times of uncertainty and injustice my brand will resonate with my consumers as my brand concepts are so prominent and of present-day. My brand embracing all cultures, nationalities and races and aims to keep a positive community through my social media campaign where consumers can connect and engage with the brand. I am pleased with the development of my brand and the outcome that has led to my visual campaign.

Bibliography Botter. (2020). Botter. Retrieved from Botter: https://botter.world Daley, N. (2021). Nicholas Daley. Retrieved from Nicholas Daley: https://nicholasdaley.net DeAcetis, J. (2019, October 22nd). How Highsnobiety Defines The New Luxury. Retrieved from Forbes: https://www. forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2019/10/22/how-highsnobiety-defines-the-new-luxury/?sh=10180cab4240 Economics, B. (2020, December 31). Why Does America Have More Prisoners Than Any Police State? And other Socio Economic Issues. Retrieved from Black Economics: https://blackeconomics.co.uk/2020/12/31/why-does-america-havemore-prisoners-than-any-police-state-and-other-socio-economic-issues/ Green, C. (2021). Craig Green. Retrieved from Craig Green: https://craig-green.com Palace. (2020). Palace. Retrieved from Palace: https://www.palaceskateboards.com Pavarotti, S. S.-R. (2021, February 5th). Show Studio. Retrieved from ESCAPE INTO RAFAEL PAVAROTTI'S NEW DIOR MEN'S CAMPAIGN: https://www.showstudio.com/news/escape-into-rafael-pavarottis-new-dior-mens-campaign Photography, T. W. (2020, June). Tim Walker. Retrieved from Tim Walker: https://www.timwalkerphotography.com Surpeme. (2021). Supreme. Retrieved from supreme: https://www.supremenewyork.com Vetements. (2021). Vetements. Retrieved from Vetements: https://www.instagram.com/vetements_official/ Wall, A. C. (2021). A Cold Wall. Retrieved from A Cold Wall: https://a-cold-wall.com Whale, G. (2021, June 2020). The Black Lives Matter journal- a photo journal. Retrieved from Four Communications: https://fourcommunications.com/the-black-lives-matter-protests-a-photo-journal/ Williams, B. (2021). Bethany Williams. Retrieved from Bethany WIlliams: https://www.instagram.com/bethany_williams_london/ Snobiety, H. (2020). High Snobiety. Retrieved from High Snobiety: https://www.highsnobiety.com

Hannah McGuckin 1807322 Final Major Project