BOILED WOOL

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on sewing with this wonderful fabric!

What is Boiled Wool?

Boiled wool is as the name suggests, and is usually a knit wool or wool/rayon blend fabric that’s agitated with hot water in a process called ‘fulling’. This shrinks and compresses the fibres (around 2050%), so it traps tiny air bubbles to make a tighter, felted fabric. Wool is a natural material and has great properties anyway but the boiling process strenghtens these and results in a thick, breathable fabric that’s wind and water resistant and keeps the heat in!

“Boiled Wool comes in a wonderful array of bright colours, as well as more neutral and everyday tones making it perfect for a statement piece for your wardrobe.”

Choosing a sewing pattern

Boiled Wool fabrics can be used to make a wide range of winter garments like coats, jackets, blazers, cardigans and accessories like berets, boots, slippers, hats and bags but you should also think-outof-box as it’s great for making dresses, tunics and skirts too! Because this fabric is very durable, it is a good investment and a garment will last several winters without losing its shape.

Boiled wool garments are timeless and won’t go out of fashion!

Auburn Blazer from Cashmerette Patterns

TIP: It’s best to choose simple shapes where the garment doesn’t have lots of potentially bulky seams.

Pre-washing

Even though this fabric has been through a shrinking process in manufacture, don’t fall into the trap of thinking that it won’t shrink! I recommend that you pre-wash on a delicate wool cycle, and buy 20% more fabric than you need to allow for this additional shrinkage.

Cutting your fabric

Cut edges on boiled wool rarely fray so require very little hemming or finishing (which is great!). Use a rotary cutter with a new blade along with a ruler to guide the cuts. Transfer markings with tailor tacks in a contrasting coloured thread, as chalk pencils etc. will brush off on this type of fabric.

It’s easy to sew with a few simple tips:

Notions:

• Use a ballpoint needle that has a rounded tip that slips through the fibres without snagging or cutting them. For heavier fabrics use a 90/14 or 100/15 needle and for lighter-weight wool you may want to try a thinner needle, such as an 80/12 sized needle.

• Test your stitch length on a scrap.

• Choose a silk thread or polyester-wrapped cotton thread, this will give a more professional finish.

Seam Finishes

Boiled wool can be bulky, so avoid using finishing techniques like French seams, which add extra bulk. Take advantage of wool’s lack of fraying and opt for techniques like pinking and grading to reduce the bulk in your seams and keep them flexible. If you want to hide unfinished seams, consider lining your garment.

TIP : I like to add a stretch zigzag stitch on the right side of seams in a matching thread to add a decorative touch to the garment.

Pressing

Press seams flat with a roller or your fingers or press on a low heat sparingly, and use a pressing cloth to help protect the fabric as you press.

TIP : Don’t overpress as it can leave shiny marks and stretch your garment out of shape.

Auburn Blazer from Cashmerette

Hemming

Boiled wool doesn’t fray, so needs very little hemming! You can leave completely raw or sew a single line of stitching about ½in from the edge to create a fringed look over time.

Garment aftercare

Dry-clean your garment occasionally. A good time to do this is just before the new winter season. Unfortunately moths like boiled wool too! Help to protect your woollen garments by storing in a sealed garment bag.

THREE BEST SELLING BOILED WOOL COLOURS FROM MODELO

Rich Red

Plum

Aqua

The Cairn 100% boiled wool fabric collection from Modelo is reversible so there’s no need for a lining and it’s ideal for raw-edge seam neatening and hems. This range has 19 wonderful colour ways to choose from.

View the Cairn Boiled Wool by searching the following link www.hantexonline.co.uk