Edition 4 - May 2019
Modern sewing
TRADITIONAL
made modern
How age-old quilting techniques play their part in contemporary designs
starts here...
Here comes
SUMMER
A look at the swimwear patterns & how to sew stretchy fabrics designed for swimwear
Patterns for
REAL PEOPLE
We talk to Émilie Fournier part of the mother-daughter duo behind the sewing pattern brand, Jalie
Cottesloe is the latest classic one-piece swimsuit and mix and match bikini set sewing pattern from Megan Nielsen
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Editor’s Letter Hello
WIN W
IN WIN
May is a month when we all to start to look forward to the summer months ahead. This issue, we focus on sewing swimsuits and the latest swimwear patterns from the designers. Julie Bonnar also explains how to go about choosing fabrics for making this garment. We’re so pleased to be talking with Émilie Fournier and Jeanne Binet, the mother-daughter duo behind Jalie who together design practical patterns for the whole family, as well as Sarah Ashford who will be discussing how traditional quilting techniques can play their part in contemporary designs too. Fancy refreshing your wardrobe? Rachel Pinheiro shares how to take a new garment silhouette and choose fabric that’s a bit different from the norm!
Happy stitching! Hantex
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CAPSULE CONCEPT
Over the forthcoming months, the capsule concept of bringing fabrics together in one range will be available in more fabric lines, so do watch this space! In this issue, we’ve mentioned Hamburger Liebe’s At the Beach fabric collection, which brings together a combination of zingy designs with six different fabric substrates, so whether it’s a swimsuit for the pool, a dress in cotton sateen or a towelling beach robe - there’s something for everyone. To find out more about this collection – click here
SERIOUS ABOUT SEWING
Whether you like making your own clothes or are already an avid seamstress then the Fashion Multi Tool Ruler from pattern designer, Sew to Grow, is a musthave. This tool has everything you need to design and make garments all in one convenient tool. It has a French curve, seam gauge, point turner, and can be used for mitring corners, hemming and buttonhole placement. It’s made from 1/8 of an inch thick acrylic making it easy to use to mark and follow the curves. It has imperial measurements, and there’s a guide on how to use this tool included with the packaging. To view the Fashion Multi Tool Ruler – click here
STAY PLASTIC FREE
!
The Ge la new sew to is one of the super ing patt ern Liesl + C o, and fe releases from atures a A-line d relaxed ress wit h angle welt po d doub ckets an led a prett blouse. y peplu For a ch m ance to 10 of th win one ese patt of erns up for grab – click h s ere to e nter Closing date is 30th June 20 19
There are millions of ways to make a shopping tote and avoid using plastic bags but this one from Cloud9 has a little zipper pouch to keep things tidy and uses less than a metre of fabric. It’s shown here in the newly launched fabric collection, Ethereal Jungle designed by Elizabeth Olwen. To download this quick and easy sewing project – click here
Pick of the PATTERNS
New sewing pattern releases that will become wardrobe essentials 9 TO 5
This is one of three brand new patterns from Liesl + Co. The Rush Hour fitted lined sleeveless sheath dress features strategically placed princess seams and a pencil skirt with back vent. This pattern is all about getting a good fit and can be worn for work or transformed into a stylish little black dress for evenings out. The pattern includes a lovely blouse with short or long sleeves and asymmetrical peplum. To find out more about the Rush Hour from Liesl + Co – click here
MEN’S SEWING PATTERNS Thread Theory Designs are probably the best-known company for men’s sewing patterns. The company has just released printed sewing patterns of five of it’s best-selling PDF patterns – Belvedere Waistcoat, Sayward Raglan, Eastwood Pajamas and two pairs of jeans, the Quadra and Fulford. To find out more about these Thread Theory patterns – click here
BEST BLOUSE
The Seoul Blossom blouse from Sew to Grow has such a soft silhouette and feminine details such as flattering front diamond darts, V-neck, and a curved back hem with side slits making this top perfect for the French tuck. The optional bow cuff completes the design making this the top a great addition to your handmade wardrobe. We think it would also make a great dress lengthened and made in a lightweight rayon or lawn. To take a closer look at this Sew to Grow pattern – click here Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk
SWIM IN
STYLE
4 stylish swimsuits to suit all body shapes
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Costumes for curves and beginners
The Cottesloe sewing pattern has classic one-piece swimsuits, and mix and match bikini sets. The pattern has athletic elements, four variations and includes detailed instructions to guide the sewer through swimsuit construction techniques. Megan Nielsen has designed it so that beginners can tackle what could be a tricky make. To view more of the options for the Cottesloe – click here
2 Bikini beauty
The Vernazza two-piece will have you feeling glamorous and comfortable. The design includes tank straps, adjustable tie front and a soft waistband. The bottoms hit at about your belly button and can easily be adjusted for a higher or lower rise. For more details about the Vernazzo – click here
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Cool in colour-block
Soak up the sun in the modern Ipswich swimsuit pattern from Cashmerette. It has two cleverly colour-blocked variations including a one-piece swimsuit with contrast waistband and a high-waist bikini with piping detail. Both suits include supportive straps, optional underwired foam swim bra and boning so that you’re comfortable for lounging by the pool or playing volleyball on the beach. Mix prints and colours for a swimsuit that celebrates your body and your creativity. To view the Ipswich swimsuit – click here
Sporty styles
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This swimsuit has a sporty feel, but also has some feminine detailing such as a sweetheart neckline and twist-front option. It includes sizing for both women and girls. To view the Jalie 3350 pattern – click here
SEW & SWIM Julie Bonnar discusses how to sew and choose fabrics for swimwear At The Beach collection from Hamburger Liebe
Modelo swimwear fabrics – plain and pattern
It can be difficult to find a swimsuit that you not only like the colour of but that is a good fit and suits your body shape – so why not make your own with a good sewing pattern and some practical sewing tips.
and the rest from Elastane or Spandex, making it durable and water-resistant. A poor choice of fabric could absorb water, and worse of all, become transparent when wet!
Fabrics
Suitable fabrics include:
A fabric suitable for making swimsuits needs to have the right stretch and be comfortable for swimming (and sunbathing). Pick a fourway stretch fabric (you can use a two-way stretch for a bikini). This fabric type is man-made fibres and made up from 80 to 90% nylon
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At the Beach Collection from Hamburger Liebe – click here
Ipswich Swimsuit from Cashmerette
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Modelo do a wide range of swimwear fabrics including patterned and solid colours – click here
Pattern cutting A swimwear pattern is usually
TEST YOUR FABRIC How does it look when it is stretched: Does the print become distorted? Is it transparent when wet? Does it stretch and return to original shape?
designed with negative ease, which means that the finished garment measurements are smaller than the body measurements because it has been drafted to work with a stretch fabric. Place pattern pieces on the fabric in the direction of greater stretch and make sure all your pattern pieces are on grain before cutting. Cutting slippery fabrics for swimwear
Modelo has a capsule collection of fabrics called Summer Breeze that includes new swimwear fabrics like Beach Towels and White Sprigs on Coral shown here
All fabrics, components and notions need to be chlorine resistant and stand up to salt water! can be quite a challenge so use a rotary cutter, pattern weights and always cut fabric in single layers. If the fabric has a large pattern, cut with the right side facing up and watch your print placement.
Linings Although it is never on show – the swimsuit lining is an integral part of a well-made swimsuit and should be lightweight, breathable and not susceptible to laddering when sewn. The lining affects how comfortable the garment is, as well as prolonging the life of your swimsuit. I would recommend choosing a skin-coloured lining for the best results.
Elastic The elastic holds the garment close to your body and finishes the edges neatly and also needs to stand up to the affects of salt water, chlorine
and the sun. Swimwear elastic is made of cotton and woven with rubber to give it extra strength and stretch. The best method of applying your elastic is the sewn and turned method. This is where the plastic is pinned to the wrong side of the raw edge, stitched and then turned towards the wrong side of the garment and topstitched in place with a three-step zigzag stitch.
Support Getting the right support for your bust is an important factor and retaining your modesty in a wet swimsuit! Read the pattern to see what is recommended. If you’re looking for a light support you can use foam cups but make sure they are designed for swimwear rather than lingerie. If you’re looking for a more reliable support – choose an underwire.
SEWING Use a ballpoint needle Use an overlocker to sew your seams (You can use a regular sewing machine – use a wide but short zigzag stitch). Test your stitch on a scrap piece of fabric first) A polyester thread is the best choice as threads can weaken with excessive exposure to salt water and chlorine such as the new Scanfil polyester range. To find out more – click here Use a transparent, seamless elastic PU tape for shoulder seams, top edges, seams, armholes, and creative accents like Vlieseline’s Framilastic. To view – click here
Silhouette Swap
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares how to refresh your wardrobe with a new silhouette and a different fabric choice. Make it work for you by choosing structured patterns and fabrics with textures
T HE T REND: Wearing a one-colour outfit top-totoe will feel like a breath of fresh air especially following months of wearing dark wintery colours, and it’s really trending right now. Why not experiment with different fabric textures to add interest. I chose fluffy knitwear, white needlecord trousers, animal print flats, and finished the look with a panama hat!
While I don’t think you can ever get bored of wearing jeans – there’s something oddly refreshing about wearing a different trouser shape. I’ve been inspired by the trouser trends that have been flooding my Instagram feed recently, and love the cropped white trousers look.
Creating the look
I recreated the look from a jumpsuit pattern and made with a wonderful off-white needlecord. If you want to recreate my look, I recommend using the following sewing patterns – Morgan Jeans by Closet Case Files or Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen.
Wearing neutrals top-to-toe Top tips for working with needlecord: Needlecord is a napped fabric, which has ribs (also known as wales) running down the lengthwise grain. This means the pile looks different when viewed up or down causing a shade. As the fabric shades, it means the cutting layout is crucial and you may need additional fabric to follow the napped layout so that all pattern pieces lay in the same direction. Keep the ribs straight. Lengthwise folds: Nap will run in the same direction on both layers. However if you fold crosswise, the nap will run in opposite directions. The fabric has a spongy medium thickness so it’s worth doing a test sample and even releasing some of the presser foot pressure to avoid crushing the fibres. Using light pressure, press with a damp cloth.
Project thoughts Where I needed to reduce bulk, I used lightweight floral cotton on these areas. Because I love making the inside pretty, I used the same floral on the pocket and to bias-bind key areas including the hem seam. A detail I copied from a pair of replay jeans I have. When you cuff the leg, you get a surprise – a very light hint of floral!
I used the off-white chunky stretch needlecord from Modelo. The mix of cotton and elastane makes for a particularly durable yet wonderfully soft fabric with a really cosy feel, which is great for jeans, dungarees, skirts and jackets. To find more out about this needlecord – click here To find out more about the sewing patterns recommended: Dawn – 4-in-1 rigid jean pattern set from Megan Nielsen – click here The Morgan Jeans from Closet Case Files – click here
Trendsetter 4 ways to add colour to your wardrobe
Choosing fail-safe colours can be an easy option when planning your wardrobe but why not step out of your comfort zone this summer by adding some colour to your sewing projects. It can instantly boost your mood!
Make a bold statement
Be brave and go the whole hog with a bold print design. At the Beach is the new collection from fabric designer, Hamburger Liebe. This beautiful range includes this navy floral and pineapple cotton sateen, and is perfect for making a simple skirt or dress. To find out more – click here
Patterns with simple lines
The Tania culottes from Megan Nielsen and the Springfield Top from Cashmerette are great sewing patterns for working with the seasonal colours like orange and lilac. Both sewing patterns have a simple silhouette that will beautifully skim the curves and look stunning made in solid colours. Tania Culottes from Megan Nielsen – click here Springfield Top from Cashmerette – click here
Wear the colour in your bag Pick a colour to make a bag that will go with most of the garments you already own. The Redwood Tote from Noodlehead is the ideal mid-sized bag for every day and has handy short handles, as well as a crossbody strap. To view the Redwood Tote sewing pattern – click here
Add accents of colour to your garment Why not add additional colour to a plain blouse with a pussy bow tie or colour blocking on sleeves. The Rose button-down shirt features a shoulder ruffle and necktie that is perfect for adding extra colour to your wardrobe. To view this pattern and others from Jalie – click here
Patterns for
REAL PEOPLE We talk to Émilie Fournier part of the mother-daughter duo behind Jalie who design practical patterns for the whole family
Tell us a bit about how the Jalie pattern brand came about, and went on to became a family business? Jeanne Binet (my mother) started sewing when she was a little girl and learned by watching her mother sew. My grandmother would sew day and night to provide for her 10 children. From gowns in fancy fabrics for ladies in town to winter coats made out of hand-me-down wool blankets – there was nothing she could not make! Following her mother’s footsteps, and at 16 years old Jeanne started to sew for a living and has never stopped. She started by mending jeans and 10 years
later, she was doing custom clothing for a very diverse clientele, including people with disabilities. When I was born, she used to buy knit fabrics in the remnants bins because she was on a budget. She eventually came up with a sewing technique to sew knits with a regular machine, which quickly became her trademark. She started teaching her technique and her students started to ask her for the sewing patterns so they could make clothes at home for their families. The first patterns were printed in 1983 when I was 3 years old. I grew up at Jalie, learning to do a little bit of everything and joined the company officially in 2005.
Sewers will know the sewing brand for its wonderful sportswear patterns but the company is more than specialised sports and leisurewear, isn’t it? Jalie’s core value is to help people make practical, timeless clothes that fit well. Basics designed for knits were an untapped niche back in 1983. Every collection would include a few patterns for stretch or active wear so before long we had more sportswear and leisurewear patterns in our line than any
other pattern companies. Many people discovered us through those patterns that were not easy to find in other brand’s ranges, and it explains why people think it’s our ‘specialty’.
What would you say is your USP? Is it the wide selection of sizes or that your patterns are easy to grade, or something else? The quality of our pattern paper and the number of sizes definitely sets us apart from other brands, and people notice it when
as well as a few PDF-only styles that would not fit on our standard paper sheet). We usually release one 12-pattern collection per year, as well as one or two patterns between collections.
What are plans for the forthcoming season?
opening the envelope. Those that sew for themselves love our grading because our steps are smaller than what is common in the market. This means that you can easily blend sizes together for a perfect fit and if you are one size off, your garment will still fit! We want to avoid that ‘way too big or way too small’ gap that is common in the ready-to-wear market. That being said, our unique selling point goes beyond that, and is the way we draft our patterns, and our grading really reflects real bodies. We blend our children, regular size and plus sizes blocks together and make sure the garment is adapted to each group. We test on real people and not just on dress forms. Our sewing techniques are known to be efficient and closer to what would be done in factories.
How many patterns do you now have and how many new patterns do you release every year? We have about 100 paper patterns and 160+ PDF patterns (PDF offering includes out-of-print patterns,
We have 12 new patterns coming up! In this collection, we’ll have something for everyone – patterns for knits and woven, dresses, tops, sportswear, menswear and new gymnastics and dance leotards, and all in 28 sizes! Our new designs are a great mix of what we like to wear and what customers have been asking for. Being a small company has made it possible over the years to tailor our offering and create patterns that are not based solely on trends but on staple items that can be made for children and adults.
To view Jalie sewing patterns – click here
MADE TO MIX AND MATCH
Albstoffe is a fabric brand that embraces GOTS organic fabric and is OekoTex certificated throughout its range, and all finished to the highest quality in Germany. Working with the renowned designer Hamburger Liebe, this company has two new collections to offer. Wanderlust is a collection printed on jersey and jacquard fabrics and has it’s own range of trims in zingy colours, and Glow includes a beautiful range printed on jersey and sweatshirt fabrics. The collections are ideal for getting a unified look to your wardrobe, and you will love the quality! To take a closer look at the Wanderlust range – click here Or to view the Glow collection – click here
Focus on
FABRICS Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics for your summer sewing
DENIM GETS A MAKEOVER Modelo has just added more lightweight denims to its existing range, which has 3% Elastane, great quality and a wonderful selection of bright colours making it perfect for comfort and summer sewing. To see the wide selection of denim fabrics available – click here
IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE
One of the latest collection from Cloud9 is Ethereal Jungle designed by Elizabeth Olwen. She has gone wild with this range, and it features beautiful medium-weight organic cottons with jungle-themed prints such as vines, large cats, botanical babes, tropical creatures and one of our favourites dragonfruit. This is such a lovely collection for garments for adult and children, as well as bag and accessory making. To view all this Cloud9 collection – click here
REMINISCENT
Katie Skoog has created her first collection, West Palm for Art Gallery Fabrics, and includes candid flamingos and seashore-infused motifs celebrating coastal lifestyle in beautiful shades of coral, aquamarine and refreshing touches of lemon yellow. The collection includes cottons and rayons. To view more from the West Palm fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics - click here
CHILD-LIKE DESIGNS
Sisu is an untranslatable Finnish word that’s more of a mindset that allows us to keep going just when we think we’re about to give up. This cotton fabric range includes lovely designs such as paper planes, colourful squiggles and numbers, and balloons. To see more of the Sisu collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here
NEW BATISTE FABRIC
Cloud9 Lush fabric collection has been designed by Juliet Meeks, and is 100% organic Batiste cotton, which is perfect for hot summer weather and not too translucent. The fabric line features some pretty floral prints including these pink poppies, daisies and more whimsical designs like these mushrooms. To view this fabric collection from Cloud9 – click here
T-shirt illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee sewing pattern from Grainline
Traditional
made modern
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover discusses how traditional quilting techniques can play their part in contemporary designs
One thing I love about patchwork is the rich history, stories and symbolism that can be discovered within a quilt. So often quilts tell us a story or carry a special meaning, and quilts from the past can give us an indication about a period in time, culture, historical events and human relationships. So while today, we’re often seduced by the wonderful array of modern fabrics that are now available – let’s face it the designs, colours and coordinating bundles are just so irresistible! We can still make quilts that pay homage to the quilters and makers that have come before us, by including traditional elements, and quilt blocks, in a fresh modern style that appeals to modern quilters in a way that is relevant today. I’ve been having good fun playing with Art Gallery Fabrics’ Grid collection by Katarina Roccella. This is a strong, geometric collection with steely greys, black and
cool blues, sharply contrasted against monochromatic blooms, hot pink and soft aqua, as well as a pixilation theme running through it. It sounds like a curious combination but it certainly works, and I thought I’d take this opportunity to use this ultra modern collection to make some traditional blocks. The ultimate modern and traditional hybrid!
are so many opportunities for variation, including fussy cutting, play with negative space, size and lots of quilting opportunities within the geometric shapes too.
Friendship Star Block
The Churn Dash Block The first block I made is the Churn Dash. This nine-patch block is thought to have originated between 1800 and 1849, and is representative of the butter churn where the centre square is the butter stick or dash of the butter churn. So many blocks were representative of what American women saw around them in their daily lives. I decided to use the centre of the block as an opportunity to showcase a beautiful rose print, fussy cutting the rose and then framing it with the churn using two different colours. I love this block, as there
Next I made the Friendship star block. This is one of my favourite blocks because of its simplicity but also it’s such a pretty and symbolic asymmetric star. In America in the 1900s, this block was used to make Friendship quilts, which were often made in secret then given to women who were leaving to travel from the East through the vast prairies in the West. Often it would be made by a group of women who made one of the blocks each, they would embroider their name in the centre as a reminder of their friendship and connection with the traveller’s former way of life. My modern version has showcased this fabulous pixelated print, and I love how the pixels pop against the green background. One thing I also love about this block is the opportunity to
play with negative space. For example, you could have a white star encased within a colourful background. Wouldn’t that be fun!
The Pinwheel Block Finally, I stitched a Pinwheel block. This simple decorative block has a wonderful sense of movement, and became popular in the 1800s. Up until this time quilts were made for utilitarian purposes such as bed and window coverings, divide up living quarters and for warmth, but the introduction of the pinwheel block meant quilts could be decorative as well as practical. And who knew that when we make pinwheel blocks today we’d be referencing the water pump windmills that were common on farms and small towns along the Oregon trail! In my version, I’ve mixed up the fabrics for the pinwheel, but you could keep them all the same or indeed use up to four different fabrics along with a contrasting background fabric.
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