Modern sewing starts here.. Edition 23 – August 2022 BEST-SELLERS www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Focus FABRICon GIBSONLIESL See the summer out and early autumn in with these beautiful fabrics! Lisboa Walking Shorts from Liesl + Co Talks trends, style and sewing What modern makers are sewing! TREND on Bag styles for this MARKseasonHit the Pattern markings and transferring them
Find the perfect pattern for your next project … search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers Pattern Finder www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder Pattern Finder
Whether you are an avid follower of fashion or have a more classic style, this issue is full of patterns and fabrics to see you through the coming months. Catch up on the latest launch of new patterns, as well as a countdown of the top 10 patterns that are proving the most popular with sewers at the moment. There’s bound to be something there for your next project! We catch up with Liesl Gibson from Liesl + Co who explains why timeless styles are a better choice for her wardrobe! With the holiday season now in full swing, we look at essential travel bags from ByAnnie and bag patterns from Mrs H that will improve your bag making skills.Asewing pattern has lots of information, which you’ll need to transfer onto your fabric. Julie Bonnar discusses how to do this and the handy tools you’ll need. We also share beautiful fabrics to see the summer out and edge into autumn. Jacqui Smith makes the in-demand Wildwood Dress from Sew House Seven and takes a look at why Ramie is a great fabric to make it in! Happy www.modernsewingstartshere.co.ukwww.hantex.co.uksewing!
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Hantex team
#modernsewingstartshere Editor’s
There are two new patterns from this Australian pattern brand: The Lanti Swing Dress is a versatile design that features three fun options to suit your style and taste. Choose from a flirty smock dress with a gathered waist, a sleek A-line dress with pockets, and a basic top that will become a wardrobe staple. You also have the option of adding short sleeves with a band or 3/4 sleeve with a frill. This is a perfect ‘learn the basics of dressmaking’ pattern to start building or adding to your me-made wardrobe. The Carolina Culottes are a perfect blend of casual comfort and effortless style. Designed with the confident beginner in mind, this pattern has an elasticised back and flat front waistband that will sit just above your hips. The front pleat adds structure, but also allows for more room through the thigh area. The side pockets are designed to lie flat so they won’t add any extra bulk. With two length variations - trousers and shorts, you can enjoy making them in different fabrics for different seasons and occasions!
To find you nearest stockist of Closet Core Patterns – click here
To see more from Sew To Grow - click here
CLOSET CORE
SEW TO GROW
With a clean finish and minimalist design lines, the Faye Swimsuit has a scoop neckline and a slightly cheeky cut, with enough variations to create a full wardrobe of swimwear. Make high-rise bikini bottom and a bikini top with straight straps or a more sporty and fun version with a low-rise bikini bottom and a bikini top with a strappy back and supportive under-bust band. If you prefer a one-piece then the classic maillot with a deep scoop back and adjustable straps is for you!
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk
New apparel pattern releases to sew this season!
5. Karine Raglan Cardigan A boxy cardigan is the perfect companion for layering up as the weather starts to change. With long raglan sleeves, and the length options, you will want to make several in different colours!
1. Fiona Raglan Sleeve Leotard
WARDROBE BY ME
This is what this company excels atproducing patterns that no other designer does! This go-to raglan sleeve leotard is ideal for any dancer, gymnast or skater!
4. Jocelyne Polo Dress
3. Nathalie Wrap Funnel Neck Sweatshirt Make a comfortable sweatshirt, tunic or sweater dress with a chunky wrap funnel neck and optional kangaroo pocket. Choose from long sleeves with cuffs or short hemmed sleeves.
For more sewing patterns from Jalie Patterns - click here
This company has added two patterns to its range of patterns: The Marianne Dress has a fitted bodice with front buttons and an A-line shaped skirt. Make the shawl collar pointed or round, and change the length from maxi to mini. Use light to medium-weight jersey fabric with at least 30% horizontal stretch, and this dress will take you through the seasons. It comes in sizes 0-24 (US) and 30-54 (EU). The Safari and Bucket Hat pattern offers sewers a classic soft hat with lining, stitch details on the brim, decorative band around the hat, and binding around the hat’s brim. Make yours in canvas, denim, or other medium-weight woven fabric. The pattern caters for head circumference 52-64 cm (20½-25¼in) so is compatible with children’s sizing. To take a look at all the sewing patterns available from Wardrobe By Me – click here Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk JALIE Renown for its specialist patterns for all kinds of sports and activewear but also for its well-fitting everyday patterns for women, men and children in a broad range of sizes. This Canadian pattern designer has just added six new designs to its already extensive range of patterns:
This ankle-cuff design is made for French Terry and has a high-rise wide elasticated waist that’s comfortable for days off.
This casual knit dress has a short set-in sleeve and polo-style collar. Princess seams make adjustments easy, and the hem hits just above the knee making it super stylish and easy to wear!
6. Danaelle Zip-front Hoodie We love a practical zip-front hoodie and this pattern has lots of lovely options for long sleeves, cuffs, hem bands and angled pockets. The pattern comes in two lengths - hip and tunic-length.
2. Zoom Modern Joggers
I’m not a big fan of trends. I believe in style, rather than trends. Obviously the eye changes with time and silhouettes evolve, so a classic trench coat of 30 years ago probably looks a bit dated when compared to a classic trench coat of today. But in general I try to avoid trends. I prefer to focus on classic, timeless pieces that will endure longer. That said, sometimes I include a trendy detail in a pattern. For example, in our recent Geneva V-neck Blouse pattern I included a lantern sleeve option because statement sleeves are popular right now. Do you think that the trends on the High Street matter less to dressmakers? I think in general, trends matter less and less right now. Even in high fashion anything goes these days. People prefer to express themselves through their choices, and designers are referencing every decade and every fashion direction without prejudice these days. In the end, you should sew and wear what you like, not what someone else tells you is trendy today!
Liesl Gibson from Liesl + Co talks trends, style and sewing! enduring
When creating new sewing patterns, how important are the current trends?
sew
The rise of refashioned garments contributes to a more sustainable lifestyle but it’s also a way of connecting with the clothes in your wardrobe in a positive way. Is this something you like to do? This is something I like to do! I have a stack of clothing on my desk that I plan to alter when time allows in the next month or two. On some pieces, I’ll just adjust the size a bit or shorten a skirt, but for others I have a wild idea and I can completely re-make the piece to better fit my current preferences.Toviewthe more sewing patterns available from Liesl + Co – click here
Your latest designs, how did you decide what you wanted to add to your pattern collection when it comes to styles?
With most of our patterns, I try to think about what’s missing from our line and what our customers might want to sew. For our most recent summer 2022 collection, I wanted chic walking shorts, since good shorts aren’t simply shortened trousers. That idea resulted in the Lisboa Walking Shorts, with two different back pocket options and a paper-bag-style elastic waist. I had also been dreaming of narrow-strapped summer styles with built-in bras so you don’t need to worry about bra straps showing, and that resulted in two styles for the Enmore Halter Dress + Top, which is a really chic little summer dress (with pockets!) and our Tribeca Knit Cami that has two neckline options. Where to begin! First, you get the satisfaction of making something with your own hands in an age when so few people have the opportunity or time to do so! But on top of that, creative freedom, the ability to wear something no one else is wearing, and the chance to make something that fits YOUR body rather than the ‘average’ body are all benefits. Dressmaking has become even more popular since the COVID pandemic and lockdown, what are the benefits of making your own clothes?
These are probably the most common. They look like small triangles or a line on the edge of the pattern piece, and are used for matching one pattern piece to another accurately. Use the tip of your scissors to cut the notch as a small triangle ‘in or out’ of the seam allowance on the fabric. I find it simpler to make one cut through the middle of the notch –this saves time and also there’s less chance of weakening the seam allowance. TIP: A double notch is something slightly different and indicates the direction that a fabric piece should be sewn in.
MARK
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses pattern markings and how to transfer them to your fabric Hit the Pattern markings
TIP: A quick method that I use – is to cut the dart out on the pattern according to your size – this makes it easier to transfer to the fabric. Darts
This straight line on the pattern helps you place the paper pattern on the fabric the right way. A grain line usually runs vertically through a pattern and indicates the fabric’s edge that is aligned with the fold. If the grain isn’t straight, you can end up with a garment that doesn’t fit properly.
The Grain Line A dart is represented with two lines (dart legs) that come together at a specific point, for example at the bust. You can use either the pin-marking technique by making a hole through the dart points or a more traditional method is to use tailor’s tacks. A little more time consuming but this will leave threads on both pieces of fabric in the correct position.
A sewing pattern has lots of information, some of which you’ll need to transfer onto your fabric. The more difficult the design, the more markings there are likely to be!
HERE’S HOW TO WORK WITH THE MAIN ONES:
TIP: These lines can be quite short so it’s useful to extend them so that they run right across, especially on larger pattern pieces. Notches
For more marking tools – click here
Marking Pens
These are marked with straight lines on the pattern and are a way of manipulating the fabric so it can be brought together to form a tuck. Usually these pattern pieces can look a larger size or a weird shape, as they will be folded. Mark pintuck lines on your fabric with a removable pen or tailor’s chalk on the right side of the fabric using a ruler to create evenly spaced lines.
There are two markings. The buttonhole placement is marked with a straight line with closed ends. Transfer onto your fabric pieces with chalk or tailor’s tacks. These always sit horizontally so the buttonhole doesn’t pull and open easily! A buttonhole presser foot is the quickest way of sewing a neat buttonhole. The closed ends show how long the button should be. A cross will indicate where the button needs to be sewn. Always mark these when your fabric is flat.
FABRIC FOLDS: The symbol for pleats tells you to fold the fabric in the direction of the arrow matching the vertical lines. When circles are present, they are an additional marking to match.
There are lots of pens available on the market including air or water-soluble, which disappear from the fabric. These are really popular but more expensive than its chalk counterpart.
TIP: Test on your fabric first, and also remember air-soluble pens only last for around 24 hours, so only use if you intend to sew straight away!
There are lots of tools on the market to choose from, so let’s Tailor’s Chalk & Pencils
TIP: You can also get a double wheel tracer, which is handy for marking a seam allowance as the wheels sit approx. 1.5cm apart!
TIP: Make sewing these easier with a pintuck presser foot, and sew your pintucks flat before construction. This foot has evenly spaced grooves on the bottom, and when used with a twin needle, it creates evenly spaced raised tucks of fabric. It will have 3, 5, 7, or 9 grooves on the bottom, and which one you choose depends on the fabric weight being sewn. The finer the fabric – the smaller the pintuck will be, and the more grooves there are to accommodate this.
Tracing Wheel & Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper
NB: A bust point is also marked with a circle with a cross or X in the middle to show the centre bust point or apex. You don’t need to transfer this point to your fabric and is treated as reference point to help you make any fit adjustments to your pattern before cutting.
TOOLS, TOOLS, TOOLS!
This is a more traditional way to mark. The carbon paper sits between the pattern and the wrong side of the fabric with the coloured side of the carbon paper facing the wrong side. Using the tracing wheel roll over the pattern marks and when the pattern is peeled back, there’ll be a row of dots on your fabric. This is a good method if you’re working with a difficult or thicker fabric.
PintucksButtonholes
Pleats
Tailor’s chalk slabs or triangles are available in several colours – red, white, yellow and blue. These are inexpensive, last longer than pencils, and are easy to use and easy to brush off the fabric. Choose the colour that stands out the most on your fabric. Chalk pencils are easy to sharpen and draw in hemlines, dart legs, pockets and anything where you need to see a finer stitching line.
BEST sellers A countdown of the top 10 patterns that are proving popular with sewers. Why not sew one of these for your next project 109 87 6 The Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern Co Remy Raglan Top by Sew House Seven Patina Blouse by PatternFridayCo TrousersPietraandShortsbyClosetCorePatterns Tamarack Jacket byGrainline Studio
4 32 1 5 Sagebrush Top fromFriday Pattern Co Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Co Fringe Dress &Blouse by Chalk &Notch Patterns Elodie Dress by Closet Core Patterns Hovea Jacket &Coat by NielsenMegan To find out about more of the bestselling patternsclick here
Rock Candy Navy Olive Soft Aqua
SHOW YOUR TRUE COLOURS!
Focus on VINTAGE COTTON
See the summer out and early autumn in with these beautiful fabrics! FABRICS
AGF Studio has 15 new shades to add to its Pure Solids collection. Printed on the same high quality pima cotton, they will compliment the designer ranges beautifully. This collection is also perfect to use as a basic in their own right to create a capsule wardrobe or add a splash of colour to your soft furnishing projects.
Cream Dusky Pink Tan To find your nearest stockist of the current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here
To view all Pure Solids, Elements & Blenders fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabrics - click here To view the Vintage Cotton collection from Modelo - click here
The new collection of vintage cotton has a washed effect finish that gives the fabric a lovely worn look. This Nantucket range is ideal for making shirts, shorts, trousers, dresses and anything that requires a summery feel. This 100% cotton fabric comes in an extensive range of 19 soft colours so there’s bound to be a colour to suit your next project.
LA VIE EN ROSE
It all started with an infinite love of design that paved the pathway for a wonderful history of beautiful fabrics. This gorgeous fabric collection tells the story of Pat Bravo’s artistry and brings them together harmoniously through Pat’s signature colour, pink!
To find your nearest stockist of the current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here All Art Gallery Fabrics collections contain 100% premium cottons but also many have rayon, flannel and knit options too. To find a stockist near you of the current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here
Pink/Red/Orange Multi Tie Dye Double NavyGauzeDouble Gauze Blue/Green Multi Tie Dye Double Gauze
TIE-DYE Tie-dye is currently one of the most searched fabric types and was a popular fabric on the spring/summer catwalks. The Sibu range from Modelo taps into this summer trend and features some lovely tie-dye prints in 100% cotton double gauze fabric. Double gauze is a lightweight, soft and breathable fabric that’s constructed of two thin cotton layers that are sewn together at regular intervals. These stitches provide a faint embossing throughout the entire fabric.
Whirl OneKhokhloma One (available in flannel too) Meadow One (available in canvas and rayon too) Butterfly Bliss One
To view this collection from Modelo - click here and scroll down to the Double Gauze sectionRachel Pinheiro in the Saltwater Dress from Friday Pattern Co
MAKING THE Wildwood Wrap Dress
I think this is very flattering fit as this is often the narrowest point on the figure. This is accentuated by the Obi wrap belt that could easily be made in a contrasting colour. You could also make the belt in a variety of colours to change the look of the dress and co-ordinate with accessories. This pattern is suitable for intermediate sewers and there are many clever details in the design of the dress such as the French seams on the shoulders and underarm seams, which means that you can roll the sleeves without exposing open seams. I was impressed with the construction of the pockets. I have sewn for many years and the Wildwood’s pockets give perhaps the neatest finish I’ve seen on this type of pocket. They sit really well, with no gape whatsoever. For those who like generous pockets, these are a really good size! Also I liked the way that the hem facings worked. They give a really good finish to the wrap skirt and the slightly asymmetric hem adds another effective detail to the design. The only thing to remember is that you do need to determine the length you want to make when cutting your dress pattern out. I made version A’s length, but combined this with version B’s sleeves. Overall, I’m pleased with how this dress turned out and will definitely be making this pattern again. I’ll be interested to experiment with different fabrics to give it an alternative look.
The bodice is shaped with pleats at the neckline and wrap waist, along with darts at the back of the skirt, which gives the dress such a nice shape and fit. The waist seam sits really well at a slightly high waist.
The Wildwood Wrap Dress is a pattern I’ve wanted to make for some time, not least because I was intrigued by the novel and clever shaping features
I really liked this dress pattern from Sew House Seven when it was first launched, and it seemed the perfect match for this lovely plum/raspberry Ramie fabric Jacqui Smith
More about Ramie...like Linen but without the creases
The Wildwood Wrap Dress is perfect for parties, weddings or the office and when you just feel like wearing a dress. It’s a true wrap dress, with the option to wear with a detachable obi-inspired belt. The beauty of this dress is created by the drape of the shawl collar and enhanced by the waist and shoulder pleats. The pattern comes in sizes 0-22 and 16-34. To view this pattern and others from Sew House Seven – click here Jacqui has used Modelo’s Sligo Collection – this mediumweight fabric has 20 beautiful colour ways to choose from. To view the complete collection – click here
For anyone not familiar with ramie – it’s a linen-like fibre, native to China and comes from a nettle type plant. Ramie is a cellulose fibre just like rayon, it’s extremely absorbent and breathes well making it the perfect summer fabric! It has a similar look and texture to linen but does not crease as much. As an extra bonus it’s easy to look after and like linen, it improves the more it’s washed.
“I created the Wildwood Wrap Dress pattern using the draping method to create the origami-like shape of the bodice. The bodice is loose in the bust so there is very little likelihood of needing an FBA or SBA. While the skirt, however, is more fitted and as Jacqui mentioned, you will want to determine your length ahead of time as the hem facings are sewn on. Simply measure from your natural waist down to where you’d like your hem to finish and add or subtract from the skirt pattern accordingly. I always advise basting together your garment first so it’s easy to unpick if you need to make adjustments. And yes, the pockets are one of my favourite features too Jacqui!”
EDITORS NOTES Sew House Seven is an independent pattern with a focus on, but not limited to, creating beautiful women’s sewing patterns that can be sewn up quickly and easily, yet appeal to sewists of all levels.
THE PATTERN: After making this dress I asked the pattern’s designer, Peggy Mead, to comment on how she felt Ramie worked with the Wildwood “I was so thrilled to see Jacqui’s beautiful Wildwood Wrap Dress in this raspberry Ramie fabric! The colour is so vibrant and gorgeous and the dress really looks beautiful on her. I remember lots of Ramie fabrics in the ’80s but haven’t really seen it around since. I always liked the look and drape of Ramie and it’s nice to see that it made such a nice Wildwood Dress.”
For me, it’s the Ramie’s texture and stability that appealed, particularly for this Wildwood Dress. On the face of it, this is a simple wrap over dress, but there are a lot of extra details that not only make it look super special when worn, but also make for an interesting project.
Although Ramie doesn’t generally shrink, I did prewash it as I prefer to do this to find out how it behaves when washed. I washed it on a cool wash and hung to dry.
THE FABRIC:
Lace and frill blouses are in vogue so why not sew your own with one of these fabulous patterns!
Afternoon Tea Blouse from Liesl + Co – click here
A style that was the height of femininity at the turn of the 20th century, with the Sears Roebuck catalogue offering more than 150 versions of this blouse. The highcollar, back-buttoning yoke style is synonymous with a Poet’s blouse, and it’s still as popular today with its decorative front and sleeves.
BAND WIDTH
Gibson Girl from Folkwear – click here
POETIC LICENCE
Sew this semi-fitted blouse with lace or a sheer fabric for the inset band. The inset panel forms a pretty chevron and bracelet-length flounce sleeves. The back has an easy keyhole opening with a button-and-loop closure, and the pattern doesn’t have a shoulder seam so the sleeves are easy to sew. With separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cups, you will get a great fit too.
TRENDSETTER
SHEER STYLE Elevate your style with this timeless classic. We love that you can show off lace fabrics with its jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. Or you can choose a delicate, embroidered tulle, or flirty floral voile – this top is sure to be a hit!
An easy-to-sew blouse that’s both a joy to make and wear, and lends itself to customising. Designed for woven fabrics, it looks great in breezy fabrics like cotton voile, as well as more structured fabrics like a crisp linen. Loose but not baggy, this blouse has generous puff sleeves and gathers across the front making it comfortable to move in. Wear it loose or tucked into something high waisted. Top from Friday Pattern Company – click here DOT Lemon Jacquard from the Bern Collection –click here Soft White from the Nikaho Collection –click here from Nantucketthe Collection –click here Yellow and GinghamSeersuckerWhiteCheck,TaborCollectionclick here
Sagebrush
VINTAGECOTTON
Montrose Top from Cashmerette – click here
Sand
VISCOSEBLEND
EMBROIDEREDDOUBLEGAUZE
SWISS
PERFECT FOR LUNCHING
To view these bag patterns and others from ByAnnie – click here
Travel Essentials Carry all the essentials in style in this handy set that includes a fold-up organiser and a bonus hot tools sleeve. They’ll keep yourorganisedessentialsathomeorontheroad!
We keep you posted of the latest launches with new patterns for bag makers!
Pack It In Streamline your holiday packing with these handy multi-sized cases. Constructed of lightweight mesh and quilted fabric, the cases hold their shape and are perfect for sorting and separating all your travel items.
Night & Day Purse
This versatile set of bags makes it easy to quickly change your look. The purse has one slip and two zippered compartments to separate and organise all your essentials. Carry it over the shoulder or crossbody using the adjustable, detachable strap or use it as a clutch. The Mini Tote is reversible with a quilted side or a non-quilted side with a welt pocket.
Improve your bag skills We now stock Mrs H’s bag patterns. Samantha is the designer behind this pattern company and her goal is to create skill-building designs that support sewers as they take their bag making to the next level. All the patterns come with step-by-step instructions and photos to help you along the way. To view more bag patterns from Mrs H - click here
WHAT’S new
Carlow Washed Linen Perfect summer fabric available in 14 popular www.modelofabrics.co.uk/linencolours modelo fabrics
