Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 21

Edition 21 – April 2022

Modern sewing starts here..

SEASONAL SEWING

The coolest fabrics and patterns to inspire your spring and summer sewing!

DOUBLE GAUZE

• Tips for using this popular fabric • Make a Saltwater Slip with Tie Dye double gauze • Patterns perfect for your wardrobe this season!

back to BASICS

We talk to Molly Hamilton from Folkwear about this exciting new range of patterns!

Coram Top & Dress from Allie Olson

LAST CHAN CE T ENTER O

CHALLENGE www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

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Editor’s Letter Now the clocks have sprung forward, and the evenings are so much lighter – it’s time to start those springinspired sewing projects.

Rachel Pinheiro shows off her free-spirit with a modern take using tie dye double gauze and a simple but stylish slip dress! Double gauze is such a popular choice with ready-to-wear garments this season and it’s ideal for making clothes for all year round but especially for spring and summer - we take a look at this fabric a little closer to find out more about it!

The indie pattern designers have certainly got the new season off to a good start with lots of inspiring new pattern releases which you can browse on our Pick of the Patterns pages. We are also delighted to talk to Molly Hamilton about Folkwear’s new Basics Range of patterns.

This collection is a little bit different from what Folkwear has done in the past and although influenced by the

ideas of folk clothing – these patterns are practical easy to make garments that are perfect to get creative with!

If you haven’t entered the Pure Solids Challenge, this is your last chance to enter and win the complete collection of Pure Solids in fat quarters plus a colour card, all worth over £400. Just think how many sewing projects you could make!

Happy sewing!

Hantex team

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New apparel pattern releases for you to make!

CASHMERETTE

The Vernon Shirt from Cashmerette means that bigger busted women can reclaim the button-up shirt! This boobfriendly take on the essential button-up shirt features two views including a classic shirt with a traditional collar and collar stand, full sleeves with narrow cuffs. For a statement version make with a dramatic collar, covered button placket, and lantern sleeves and wide cuffs. From flannel work shirts to posh statement tops, this shirt can do it all! It has different cup sizes from C–H, thoughtfully placed bust darts, and side seam shaping so you’ll get a fabulous fit from collar to hem. The pattern is available in two sizes 0-16 and 12-32.

To view this shirt and more designs from Cashmerette – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

NAMED

Named Clothing has just released its new Balance collection and here is the first three patterns for this season: The Taika Blouse Dress is a timeless midilength blouse dress with half sleeves and a gathered sleeve. This lightly fitted dress features a V-neck and a button closure. The curved waist seam runs below the bust at the front, and the gathers at the bust and centre back give volume and shape to the bodice, while the vertical seams of the skirt flatter and contour the body. Choose a light or mediumweight non-stretch shirting or for a drapey look choose rayon or Tencel.

The Aina trousers and culottes pattern includes classic trousers with a slightly tapered ankle-length leg as well as trendy culottes.

Both of these lightly fitted trousers have a high rise, fly zipper closure, front pockets and patch pockets in the back. We love the decorative button closure at the sides and the back waist has a relaxed elastic detail, making the trousers more comfortable and easier to fit.

Lastly, and just in time for April showers, the Sirkka is a light, unlined jacket with a detachable hood, long sleeves, and a zip closure. It has a high collar and large patch pockets with a side pocket and another pocket underneath the flap. The overlapping pocket flaps with snaps create a fun little detail. The hood, hemline and cuffs are gathered with elastic cords to keep you dry at all times. All seams of the jacket are sewn using flat-felled seams for a neat and durable finish.

To find these three new patterns and more from Named Patterns - click here

PLOEN PATTERNS

Ploen Patterns are now in print version and available from sewing retailers. This Finnish pattern company’s main theme is sustainability and their vision is to create fun patterns that we all need in our closets, so we don’t have to buy fast fashion!

The patterns in print include the Vera Dress & Top, Idun Dress, Tyra Trousers and Eira Top. To find your nearest stockist of Ploen Patterns – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

WARDROBE BY ME

More patterns are now available from Wardrobe by Me and include the roomy and relaxed Sille Shirt with drop shoulders and deep armholes, the popular Norma Jean Belted Wrap that’s perfect for beginners, the classic five-pocket jeans patterns for both men and women plus two stylish seasonal jackets — the Ozark Vest and Zip-up Sweater.

To take a look at these patterns and others from Wardrobe By Me – click here

LIESL + CO

This indie pattern label has just released three great new patterns for spring and summer. The Lisboa Shorts are pull-on shorts that include an elastic paper-bag waist, belt loops and front pockets. The Enmore Halter Dress + Top is a halter-neck sundress that feature narrow straps, a built-in bra and pockets, and the Tribeca Cami includes two close-fitting cami styles with a built-in bra for support and shaping.

To check out these three new patterns and more from Liesl + Co – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

TRENDSETTER The Column Dress

Silk-blend see-through dress from Retaissance

THE TREND A silhouette-hugging column dress is one of the latest styles for the new season. This relaxed pull-on style dress is cleverly cut with no fuss or fastenings. Column dresses remain narrow as they extend to the hemline, and the maxi-length seems to be the most popular length of all. More often than not, it will have elegant side splits to allow the longer length to flow beautifully. It is ideal for a wedding or party or can be worn over the top of a blouse or plain tee for more casual times.

THE PATTERN

THE FABRIC This heathered ribbed knit fabric from Modelo is soft and has a good stretch. It comes in summer colours, which are ideal for this pattern.

View the full range of Sete Melange Summer Rib Knit Fabrics – click here

The Nikko Dress pattern includes four views, all with a simple and stylish mock turtleneck. Two views are straighter through the waist and hip, extending to the ankle, with knee-length side slits to complete the dress. You can make with or without sleeves (these are cut to resemble a racerback), but with enough coverage to wear a regular bra. You can also use this pattern to make tops. Make in mediumweight knit fabric that has an approximate 75% stretch such as rib knit, sweater knit, bamboo knit, and stretch velvet.

To view this dress pattern and more from True Bias – click here

o t k c ba

BASICS

Folkwear recently launched its new Basics Collection – we talk to Molly Hamilton about this exciting new range of patterns!

Tell us about the concept and intentions behind this new collection of patterns?

Our new Basics Collection is a set of simple patterns based on the premise of folk clothing.

Traditional or folk clothing is, in general, easy to sew, easy to fit, and comfortable to move and work in. Folk clothing also allows (and encourages) the options of decoration and embellishment so we created these patterns to encompass those ideas.

The patterns are easy to fit and they’re really comfortable. There is lots of ease in the patterns and the construction and pieces are simple and make a great canvas for creativity. They can be made simple and plain, or the patterns can be embroidered, quilted, appliquéd, or made with interesting fabrics. The options are endless!

The way this collection looks is very different. How many patterns are in the collection and what does it hold with regards to style and sizes?

This collection is a bit different from what Folkwear has done in the past in that the patterns are not based directly on original garments. They are influenced by the ideas of folk clothing practical clothing to work in, easy to make, room for creativity. The patterns are very simple. They’re very easy to make, which also differs from some of our other sewing patterns.

We have lots of patterns

with detailing that makes them authentic, but adds layers of complexity to the patterns, such as lace insertion, plackets, ruffles, pleats, embroidery, etc. Many of these can be left out for simpler garments, but these Basics patterns start with a very basic garment. There are five patterns in the collection currently including a Jacket, Tunic, Pinafore Dress, Pants and Overcoat which are in Folkwear sizes XS-3XL.

What type of sewer will enjoy making these garments and do they need any previous sewing experience?

Any sewer will enjoy making these garments. They’re perfect for beginning sewists because of their simplicity.

There are no challenging sewing techniques such as zippers or plackets. There is also very little fitting that needs to be done since these patterns are drafted to be roomy.

Everything is quite simple.

However, experienced sewists have also told us they are very happy with the patterns as they give them simple projects to work on, and many people appreciate that since life in general lately has been challenging enough! But, there is so much room for creativity also, and any sewist can add options like embroidery, appliqué, or felting, or experiment with fabrics and colour blocking.

Simple styling is key - do you have a favourite pattern from the new range and why do you like it?

I really love the Pinafore Dress because it can be made and worn so many ways – short, maxi, over shirts, and under cardigans. It can be made from denim for a sturdy work dress or from rayon for a flowy, romantic dress. It can be worn in winter with leggings and boots and over a long sleeve. And it can be worn in summer over a tank top and with flip-flops.

I also love the Overcoat. I’m always cold in the winter and this coat is fabulous for layering over everything and covering me nearly from head to toe. It’s very cosy! It also has a stylish, classic look that I like.

Are there any plans to add more patterns to the Basics Collection in the future?

Yes, we are planning to eventually add a few more pieces to the Basics Collection. Maybe a new sewing pattern each year. For now, each of these first five patterns is available as paper pattern from retailers, and we have lots of information and inspiration on our blog www.folkwear.com about making these garments.

To view the Basics Collection and other patterns available from Folkwear – click here

SEERSUCKER GINGHAM This is another fabric that gives you the best of both worlds. The Tabor collection from Modelo includes six colourways of a lovely seersucker fabric with traditional gingham design. It’s made up of viscose and polyester with a little elastane for stretch. Shown here is tan and pink but it also comes in yellow, black, grey, and navy. This fabric would be ideal for a gorgeous summer dress!

To view this collection and more from Modelo Fabrics - click here

Garment vectors to show fabric only. Not to scale and do not represent sewing patterns.

Focus on FABRICS

Bountiful Daisies Cherry in knit

Handkerchief Nectar in Rayon

Fabrics to inspire your spring/summer sewing

Seasonal Bouquet Plum in Flannel

SEASON & SPICE LOVELY LINENS The new Carbury fabric collection from Modelo Fabrics combines the cool, natural feel of linen with the practicality of cotton.

It is ideal for spring and summer garments, and comes in eight beautiful colours in narrow and wide stripe as well as solid colours.

To see more from this collection – click here

If autumn is your favourite season then you can sew it now as the Season & Spice fabric collection is in stock. Designed by the AGF studio, with this range of fabrics you will be able to smell the fruit waiting to be picked, and the sound of crunchy fallen leaves beneath your shoes.

Embrace the most wonderful things that come with this season in this collection like fall harvests, spices, and herbs.

All Art Gallery Fabrics collections contain 100% premium cottons but many also have rayon, flannel and knit options too.

Paisley Bloom in Knit

Artifact Terra in Flannel

Intrinsic Deep in Rayon

SHINE ON! Another beautiful collection from Sharon Holland for AGF, it reminds us of nature’s promise and renewal to keep glowing, growing, and shine on! As spring unfolds from winter with a light and airy freshness of golden yellow, blushing peach, slate, sepia, and milky white efflorescence - this collection says spring has definitely arrived!

CAPRI, A TASTE OF SUMMER The new collection from Katarina Roccella for AGF will definitely get you in the mood to holiday again. Prepare for a sightseeing venture through the stunning island of Capri with this fabric designer’s signature style of painted florals, coastal tones, and zesty summery prints that will fulfil your wanderlust desires.

Carpi Toile in Rayon

Limoni Righe in Knit

To view more current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here

SUMMERY FABRICS IN RAYON!

RAYON JERSEY The Santa Anna Rayon Jersey from Modelo has some beautiful new super summery prints.This high quality range of jersey knits are perfect for garments such as tops, dresses, leggings and leisurewear. Rayon jersey has all the benefits of jersey and the soft, light properties of rayon making it a comfortable fabric to wear.

To see more of the new colours and designs from the Santa Anna Rayon Jersey collection - click here

RAYON The Mistral collection of rayon from Modelo is made from 100% viscose and has new summery designs that combines an eclectic mix of seashore, speckles, shards and fun animal prints.

To see more of the exciting designs from this new Modelo collection - click here

GO WITH the flow Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shows off her free-spirit with a modern take using tie-dye fabric and a simple but stylish slip dress!

FASHION ARCHIVE: TIE-DYE SLIP DRESS

If you’re feeling you’ve travelled back in time to the ’90s with slip dresses popping up in fashion magazines and social media - I can reassure you, we are just experiencing a new interpretation of a garment that actually has its beginnings in the Middle Ages. This simple straight design has fallen in and out of use until fashion nostalgia of inner wear as outwear brought it back!

Talking about long history – the process of tie-dye dates back as far as 6000 BC. The folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric to create beautiful patterns when dyed is an ancient art practised across continents and cultures. With our times going through a mood transformation not dissimilar to the late ’60s and ’70s, tie-dye is once again prominent in people’s psyches. There is a collective feeling of excitement to come out of a long period of isolation and the effects of the pandemic, and tie-dye conveys an image of change and optimism!

FUN FACT: Tie-dye is called different things in different cultures and countries: Japan – shibori India – bandhani or leheriya Indonesia – plangi or tritik Nigeria – adire Peru – amarra China – zha ran Portuguese, we use the English word – tie-dye!

PATTERN CHOICE I decided to make the Saltwater Slip from the Friday Pattern Company. This simple slip dress has adjustable straps and is a lovely tea-length with side slits. I made size M but I probably could have made size S as I found the ease generous. I made my own loops instead of using lingerie fittings too.

HOW I’M GOING TO WEAR IT I needed a beach cover up and this combo of fabric and pattern was just perfect. I got to wear it on a girl’s weekend spa trip to Ragdale Hall, Melton Mowbray in Leicestershire. To make it modern in style, I wore sneakers instead of sandals or flip-flops.

EDITORS NOTES THE PATTERN: The pull-on Saltwater Slip can be layered or worn on its own. The pattern comes with two length options: above the knee, and tea length with side slits. It also comes with optional side ties to add a bit of waist shaping. Wear this slip over a tee shirt, under a sheer dress, or on its own! The pattern comes in sizes XS-7X and includes multiple cup size options (B/C and C/D).

To view this pattern and others from Friday Pattern Company – click here

THE FABRIC: Rachel used the traditional navy tie-dye Double Gauze from the Sibu collection from Modelo Fabrics to make her dress. This Oeko-tex certified double gauze fabric is available in two other colourways – ochre and rust.

To see more double gauze fabrics from the Sibu collection from Modelo – click here

DOUBLE gauze

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses all there is to know about double gauze and sewing with it Double gauze is currently a popular trend with ready-to-wear garments and this fabric is ideal for making your own clothes all year round but especially in the warmer weather.

This fabric has a feminine feel, and is perfect for making tops, blouses, shirts and dresses that have volume. It’s also great for

children’s wear. Double gauze usually comes in neutral colours like black, white, grey and cream but we’re now seeing dusky pinks, soft greens, warm orange, rust, navy and wine too. You can even buy tie-dye double gauze like Rachel Pinheiro has used to make her Saltwater Slip Dress in this issue.

What is double gauze?

Double gauze is a lovely lightweight, loose open weave fabric that’s made up of two layers of finer fabric that are tacked and joined together to make one crinkletextured fabric. If you look closely you can see that the layers are held together with tiny stitches that form a light embossing on the fabric.

Double gauze is breathable, and the two layers trap cool or warm air when it’s worn. It’s soft and becomes even softer the more you wash it! It has a slightly crinkled look to it but if you prefer you can iron it flat but I think, this is part of this fabric’s charm! The fabric has some drape but it also stays in shape. However, it does tend to fray more than other cottons due to this very loose weave.

Prewash

Suitable patterns

Make sure you always pre-wash this fabric.

Double gauze does shrink and after the first wash, it looks a little crumpled too but once air-dried, iron gently with some steam, and the wrinkles should disappear!

The Nikaho collection has a lovely embroidered design and comes in 11 colours

Any sewing pattern that says cotton and cotton blends is suitable for double gauze.

Garments with a relaxed fit are best like loose blouses and dresses. This fabric can be a little see-through in lighter colours so you may need to line the garment or wear a slip with it!

Cutting out

Double gauze is very delicate and can snag easily so to avoid this happening, use extra fine pins and pin in the seam allowance only.

It also unravels and frays when cut but can usually be hidden in the seam allowance.

Sewing

This type of fabric is fairly easy to sew but the crinkled texture can make it creep when it’s sewn and cause the layers to feed through the sewing machine a little unevenly resulting in rippling stitches and puckering.

Choose a new sharp machine needle either 70/10 or 80/12 and use a walking foot on your sewing machine. This will help grip the layers together evenly. You can also lower the presser foot pressure a little to accommodate slightly thicker fabrics and use a longer stitch length between 2.5-3mm.

Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Co

TIP: Always start sewing double gauze away from the edge as the fabric can get stuck under the plate and become all chewed up!

Finishes

As this fabric frays – it’s a good idea to use a seam finish that encases the raw edges like overlocking the seam allowances or using a French seam.

Modelo has four collections of 100% cotton double gauze – Nikaho, Sibu, Sakata and Milsato. The Milsato range has an extra texture with a subtle Dobby dot pattern.

To view the full range of double gauze fabrics – click here

I love this funky tie-dye with the vibrant colours, perfect for summer!

From the Sibu collection from Modelo Fabrics

Lightweight & DRAPEY 3 patterns that are perfect for sewing with double gauze!

Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Company

The Wilder Gown is a raglan sleeve dress or top that is pulled in and tied at the neckline.

This garment is as comfortable as it is cute and it’s modula design lends itself to customising. Make as a long two tiered dress or a single tier short dress or top. Designed for light-weight wovens.

To find more sewing patterns from Friday Pattern Company - click here

Coram Top & Dress from Allie Olson The Coram Top and Dress sewing pattern is a loose-fitting raglan ideal for woven fabrics with drape. This design has bust and shoulder darts for better shaping. The sleeve cuffs offer a clean finish and a curved, dolphin hem provides extra visual interest. The top has a lovely hi-low hem, while the hem of the dress is even from front to back.

For more sewing patterns from Allie Olson – click here

Mave Skirt from True Bias

Cool and collective, this skirt pattern has a comfy elasticated waist skirt with a drawstring, inseam pockets and optional lining. The skirt can be made with or without ruffles in different lengths to create lots of lovely options. Make in light to medium weight fabrics with drape like double gauze, rayon challis, crepe, linen, cotton lawn, voile, silk, chiffon, and georgette.

To find more patterns designed by True Bias – click here

Felt Coaster Kits These new coaster kits contain four coasters and can also be made as ornaments.

Each one measures approximately 4-5in in diameter. The kits contain wool felt and embroidery floss for appliqué and embellishments, pattern, templates and illustrated instructions to make.

Choose between furry felines, cute canines and beautiful bird houses. These sweet designs make great gifts for a loved one, cat or dog lovers or bird enthusiasts.

WHAT’S

NEW

Rachel’s of Greenfield is a niche company that’s committed to creating sewing kits that have a broad appeal, are high quality, and excellent value.

These include Wall Quilts, Christmas Ornaments, and Punch Needle kits that are ideal for beginner and intermediate crafters. Here’s what’s new...

Patchwork Table Centre Kit The Dahlia Star Centerpiece is the perfect addition for your table in navy, burgundy and cream. The striking pattern gives any dinner party the wow factor or simply make your kitchen table stand out all year round. Machine sewn it measures approximately 36in. The kit includes all fabrics needed to complete it with patterns and illustrated instructions (batting and backing are not included).

To view these products from Rachel’s of Greenfield – click here

T LAS TO NCE CHA TER EN

e g n e l l a ch

The closing date is approaching and this month is your last chance to show us your creativity with the Pure Solids collection from Art Gallery Fabrics!

With improved dip-dye technique the most brilliant and purest colours, Art Gallery Fabrics now has the biggest range of Pima cotton Pure Solids with the highest quality of base cloth making them perfect for all sorts of sewing.

They are Oeko-Tex certified, so you can rest assured that the dyes are the most environmentally safe to use. Commonly known as ‘Pima’, Art Gallery Fabrics’ premium cottons have the softest hand and the lowest shrinkage percentage between one and two per cent and almost don’t fray!

To view the full collection – click here

We want you to get sewing and make a project using this go-to fabric collection. Two lucky winners will receive the complete collection of Pure Solids in fat quarters plus a colour card, which is worth more than £400. We’ll also feature the best projects in a future issue of Modern Sewing Starts Here!

How to enter...

1.

Design and make a small project using only the Pure Solids range from Art Gallery Fabrics. This can be a wall hanging, small bag, cushion, accessory – the choice is yours!

To view all stockists and to purchase fabrics for this Pure Solids Challenge – click here

2.

To enter the challenge - click here Closing date - Saturday 30th April 2022

3. After the closing date, the winners will be notified by email as well as the projects to be featured.

Share your makes on #PureSolidsChallenge

modelo fabrics Details

Summer Rayon Soft, drapable and available in a variety of fashionable designs and colour-ways visit www.modelofabrics.co.uk/rayon

Find the right fabric for your next project …