Athleisure reworked Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares her take on athleisure wear for the autumn
Working with knit fabrics I like to talk fashion trends instead of just bringing you a product review but I couldn’t help to gush a little about this rib knit. This fabric is pure softness, and is warm but not bulky. It also sews really well, keeps it shape, and the colours selections are lovely. Sewing with this sort of fabric can seem a bit daunting so here are my tips on working with it: Two- or four-way stretch Two-way knits will stretch crosswise from selvedge to selvdge while fourway stretches crosswise and lengthwise. Use a stretch gauge Knit patterns including the Nikko dress will have a gauge to make sure the finished measurement will fit correctly. Fold the knit fabric crosswise and cut a 10cm sample. I personally avoid using the edge as I’m not sure if it has been stretched or distorted out of shape. If you’ve never sewn with knits always follow the designer recommendation on the percentage of stretch.
As the weather starts to change and nights become longer, the colour palette of my wardrobe moves from bright and light to earthy deep tones. Autumn is my favourite season and isn’t a season I had experienced growing up. In Brazil, we have two defined seasons – rainy or not! The blue skies and the slight chill inspires me to make clothes that are cosy, easy to layer but that are still streamlined and elegant. Athleisure is one of the biggest recurrent trends over the last couple of years. It means wearing casual sports-like clothing outside a sporting occasion When looking for inspiration, my aim was to find something easy to wear yet also easy to care for, and quick to make with lots of styling possibilities. The Nikko dress from True Bias and Modelo’s sweater rib knit in brick red fitted the bill perfectly.
Seam allowance Most knits designs have 1cm seam instead of the 2.5cm traditionally seen in woven. Don’t assume this. I personally like to have my seams cut to 0.6cm, which I trim with an overlocker after using the correct stretch stitch but you don’t need to as knits don’t unravel. I actually stitched this dress on my sewing machine. Cut notches outward Select the correct notions and use a ballpoint needle, polyester or knit thread. Please don’t confuse with elastic used for shirring. The knit thread is wooly nylon.
Choose the right stretch stitch Check your sewing manual to find all the different stretch stitches your machine can do, and swatch test them with the sewing gauge. You may need to adjust your sewing machine tension and the length of the stitches.
Don’t skip on the stabilisers Place elastic on the shoulder seam, and use knit hem tape for sharper edges. Pressing Unlike woven fabrics, stretch knit should only be pressed with a cool iron when finished. That is only after you have tested a sample.
Editor’s notes Rachel has used Modelo’s new range of mélange rib sweater knit. Made from 85% polyester, 10% viscose and 5% Lycra, this fabric is perfect for garments that need stretch. The range includes 10 rich muted tones that are great for autumn/winter but will work equally well all-year round. To view the full selection of colourways – click here To view the dress pattern featured (The Nikko from True Bias) - click here
