Making Activewear

Tommie Hernández founder of sirenapatterns.com shares her tips for making activewear

For many home sewers, making their own activewear is a challenge. But think about how proud you would feel if someone in the gym asked you “Where did you buy your outfit?” and you could answer, “I made it myself!” I encourage you to give it a shot and make your first activewear outfit.

Here are some tips to help you get started with making this type of garment:

FABRIC TYPES:

• Activewear garments have negative ease, which means the pattern is smaller than the actual body measurements. And because of this, you’ll need to use a fabric that has the proper stretch percentage and recovery.

• Since you’ll probably sweat a lot in this type of garment, I recommend you use a naturally hydrophobic fabric that wicks away moisture. Nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex that stretches at least 50% are great synthetic alternatives that don’t absorb moisture (like cotton). Bamboo/spandex is a more eco-friendly alternative since bamboo is not only a natural fibre but also anti-bacterial. Remember that spandex, elastane and Lycra all mean the same! Lycra is a name brand, and constitutes a small percentage (around 3% to 20%) of the fabric.

• Four-way stretch fabrics are fabrics that stretch in both directions, warp and weft while two-way stretch fabrics stretch only in one direction (either warp or weft)

• For very fitted garments like leggings and sport-bras, 4-way stretch fabrics in the fibres mentioned with a stretch of at least 50% or more work great. For loose fitted activewear such as T-shirts – the fabric can stretch less (25%), and can be either two-way stretch or 4-way stretch.

CUTTING:

Cutting knit fabrics can be difficult, especially if they’re lightweight and slippery. If things get difficult when cutting with regular scissors consider using a rotary cutter instead. This cutter allows you to make accurate cuts when cutting multiple layers of fabric, even stretchy ones. Make sure to always use a cutting mat to protect the surface, change the cutter blades regularly, and of course, keep it away from children.

STITCH & NEEDLE:

Both the fabric and the stitch should stretch enough to get the garment in your body, but then recover so you can wear it comfortably. That’s why it’s so important to use not only the correct fabric, but also stitches that stretch. If not you will end up with an ill-fitting garment and popped stitches.

• You can fashion an activewear garment from beginning to end using a regular sewing machine with a narrow zigzag stitch (1.5mm wide x 2.5mm long), but I prefer an overlocker to sew most of the garment (except the hems and topstitching).

• Keep in mind that the seam allowance for knits is smaller, usually 6mm (¼in), instead of the usual 1.5cm (5/8in). You don’t want bulky seam allowance in this type of fabric, especially in fitted garments. Always read the pattern instructions and apply the included seam allowance.

• Always test your stitches in a scrap of the same fabric that you use for the outfit. To prevent skipped stitches, make sure to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The size will depend on the weight of the fabric.

FINISHINGS:

To finish hems on activewear with a regular sewing machine you can use a medium zigzag stitch or a twin needle. For a more professional finish, a coverstitch sewing machine is ideal, but not indispensable. with either 2 or 3 needles.

Always test the stitch you want to use first in a scrap of fabric and adjust the tensions accordingly.

ZIGZAG

A medium zig zag (3mm x 3mm) is ideal for finishing hems.

TWIN NEEDLE

Alternatively, you can also use a ballpoint twin needle to achieve a look similar to the coverstitch with two rows of stitching, although it doesn’t stretch as much as the coverstitch one.

COVERSTITCH

This stitch is the most recommended for activewear and achieving a professional looking finish. It looks like two rows of stitching on the outside and on the inside it’s similar to a serger stitch.

REVERSE COVERSTITCH

Here you’ll hem using the same coverstitch sewing machine but you simply make the hem with the wrong side of the garment towards the presser foot. That way, you will have the two rows of stitches on the inside and the serger looking finish on the outside. If you combine different colors of threads on the needle you can achieve a very fun, casual look, great for activewear.

AND FINALLY…..

Practice makes perfect! Keep practising with the equipment you have, and if you’re sewing knits frequently consider adding an overlocker, and eventually in a coverstitch to your sewing machine inventory, both are great investments for sewing knits enthusiasts!

Tommie Hernandez is a Fashion Designer with over 20 years of experience and four years ago, founded Sirena Patterns. Sirena Patterns is the only Puerto-Rican sewing pattern company, and sells to more than 43 countries in digital format and with printed distribution in the UK, US and Puerto Rico. She also uses her experience to teach how to create clothes and swimwear. Her online fashion academy has more than 1,700 students around the world, and Tommie says “For me, technology is a great tool to compensate for inperson contact, even if it doesn’t replace it!” She also helps entrepreneurs launch their own fashion businesses.