MAKING
activewear
Tommie Hernández founder of sirenapatterns.com shares her tips for making activewear For many home sewers, making their own activewear is a challenge. But think about how proud you would feel if someone in the gym asked you “Where did you buy your outfit?” and you could answer, “I made it myself!” I encourage you to give it a shot and make your first activewear outfit.
Here are some tips to help you get started with making this type of garment: FABRIC TYPES: •
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Activewear garments have negative ease, which means the pattern is smaller than the actual body measurements. And because of this, you’ll need to use a fabric that has the proper stretch percentage and recovery. Since you’ll probably sweat a lot in this type of garment, I recommend you use a naturally hydrophobic fabric that wicks away moisture. Nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex that stretches at least 50% are great synthetic alternatives that don’t absorb moisture (like cotton). Bamboo/spandex is a more eco-friendly alternative since bamboo is not only a natural fibre but also anti-bacterial. Remember that spandex, elastane and Lycra all mean the same! Lycra is a name brand, and constitutes a small percentage (around 3% to 20%) of the fabric. Four-way stretch fabrics are fabrics that stretch in both directions, warp and weft while two-way stretch fabrics stretch only in one direction (either warp or weft) For very fitted garments like leggings and sport-bras, 4-way stretch fabrics in the fibres mentioned with a stretch of at least 50% or more work great. For loose fitted activewear such as T-shirts – the fabric can stretch less (25%), and can be either two-way stretch or 4-way stretch.
CUTTING:
Cutting knit fabrics can be difficult, especially if they’re lightweight and slippery. If things get difficult when cutting with regular scissors consider using a rotary cutter instead. This cutter allows you to make accurate cuts when cutting multiple layers of fabric, even stretchy ones. Make sure to always use a cutting mat to protect the surface, change the cutter blades regularly, and of course, keep it away from children.
STITCH & NEEDLE:
Both the fabric and the stitch should stretch enough to get the garment in your body, but then recover so you can wear it comfortably. That’s why it’s so important to use not only the correct fabric, but also stitches that stretch. If not you will end up with an ill-fitting garment and popped stitches. •
You can fashion an activewear garment from beginning to end using a regular sewing machine with a narrow zigzag stitch (1.5mm wide x 2.5mm long), but I prefer an overlocker to sew most of the garment (except the hems and topstitching).
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Keep in mind that the seam allowance for knits is smaller, usually 6mm (¼in), instead of the usual 1.5cm (5/8in). You don’t want bulky seam allowance in this type of fabric, especially in fitted garments. Always read the pattern instructions and apply the included seam allowance.
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Always test your stitches in a scrap of the same fabric that you use for the outfit. To prevent skipped stitches, make sure to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The size will depend on the weight of the fabric.
