WELL-FITTING TROUSERS

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses things to consider when making your first pair of trousers

Evaluate your wardrobe

Have a look through your wardrobe to see what trouser styles you tend to like wearing, and evaluate what it is that you really like about them and what you don’t! This will help you choose the right pattern for you!

Take accurate body measurements

Using a measuring tape, measure the following:

Outside leg – Measure from the start of the waist down the outside of the hip to your ankle.

Inside leg – Measure the inside of the leg extending the tape from the groin to your ankle.

Hip – Measure the widest point of your hips.

Thigh – Measure the circumference at the widest point of your thigh.

Ankle – Measure around your ankle but allowing room to get your foot through.

Groin – Measure the distance from the waistband at the front to back waistband, following the groin line.

Choosing a simple pattern

Start by getting to grips with a simple trouser pattern, perhaps without a zipper or a more flowy style that doesn’t require as much fitting to begin with.

Make a toile

If there was a time when skipping making a toile was possiblethis really isn’t it! Make sure the fabric you choose is the same or similar in weight and stretch to the fabric that you are intending to sew with so that any fitting and alteration issues can be sorted out at this stage. Don’t stress the flaws in your toile, this is why you’re creating one in the first place!

TIP : Don’t worry about facings etc on a toile

Fitting

This is probably the thing that sewers dread the most. The key is reading the wrinkles and finding a solution for any drag lines. Go easy on yourself as even your favourite trousers will have wrinkles and pull-lines! The goal is to have the least wrinkles when standing!

Adjustments

Remember that most of us will need some sort of adjustment. Make any adjustments slowly and one by one. This way, you can tell which adjustment has worked and avoid making things worse with another adjustment.

Start by making your first toile straight based on your measurements on the pattern and see how it fits. Stand in front of a full-length mirror with your feet hip-width apart. Are the side seams in line with your legs? Does the waistband sit where it’s most comfortable?

Look at the front to see if there are any drag lines along the following areas - tummy, crotch, thighs or knees? Does anything feel too tight or uncomfortable - these are areas that you might like to adjust.

LOOKING FOR TIPS ON ADJUSTMENTS & FITS:

I recommend visiting the blogs and websites of pattern company designers. For example, here’s a link to Closet Core Patterns

Fabric choice

Select a fabric that’s easy to sew for your first pair of trousers but avoid slippery fabrics like satin and fabrics that are harder to manipulate like faux leather. Choose a fabric that is easy to work with like cotton, viscose or linen.

The most common adjustments and fixes:

Waistline - Does it gape away at the back? You will need to do a swayback adjustment.

Is it too tight on the waist? You’ll need to remove the darts. Bottom - Are they too tight on the bottom and gaping at centre back? A seam method adjustment may be necessary. Are they loose around the bottom? You will need to do a fisheye dart or full tummy adjustment.

Crotch - Are they pulling at the crotch? You will need to lower or raise this area.

Are there any tight horizontal lines? You will need to let out the side seams a little.

Thigh - Are they pulling tight around the crotch or loose on the thigh? You will need to add more width or take away from the front of the trouser.

Leg - Is it tight across your leg? Then a full calf adjustment is required.

Sewing tips

Grainlines - Make sure you cut your fabric/pattern on the grainline to avoid any twists in the fabric. Cut your pattern and seam allowances accurately too.

Tiny adjustments - Trousers don’t have much ease so even a small 5mm adjustment can have a big effect on how the garment fits.

Creasing - Always pay extra attention to pressing and creasing your trousers for best results.