Men's Folio Singapore May 2010

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LET THERE BE LIGHT

SEXY & UPLIFTING SUMMER STYLES

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MEN’S FOLIO CONTENTS MAY / J U N 2 0 1 0

FASHION 106 WINNING STREAK: Dress like a high roller. No sleight of hand required 116 FLEX ABILITY: Turn up the heat in sleeveless tops 124 URBAN EXCHANGE: Louis Vuitton indulges in bold, blinding colours

COVER

DANIEL C wears LOUIS VUITTON yellow cotton jacket, yellow knit sweater and pale grey leather messenger bag Photography: JEFF CHEN/Calibre Pictures Styling: KIEN KOH assisted by JACK ONG Hair & grooming: LARRY YEO/Mosche Hair Salon using Clinique Skin supplies for Men and Redken for Men hair products

PHOTOGRAPHY JEFF CHEN/CALIBRE

132 LAND MINE: BOSS Orange’s relaxed urbanwear gets inspiration from nature

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INSIGHT 138 RETURN OF THE PEACOCK: Menswear gears up for a new age of flamboyance ESSENTIALS 142 Top wardrobe add-ons this May VANITY & VITALITY 150 THIRD BASE: SK-II opens a new Spa Boutique in the heart of the city 152 MANE EVENT: Sculpt your hair with the latest waxes, gels and clays COVET 153 GREY MATTER: Add a dash of enigma with accessories in cool and collected grey DETOUR 158 RATED-R: Nissan GT-R leaves Porsche trailing in its wake FORM 162 SPACE AGE MEETS NEW AGE: The Rolex Learning Centre in Switzerland offers a peek into architecture’s future 164 VERDANT HAVEN: John Erdos corners Demspey Hill with a sprawling enclave

162

PICTURE COURTESY OF ROLEX

MEN’S FOLIO CONTENTS MAY / J U N 2 0 1 0

MEN’S FOLIO CONTENTS MAY / J U N 2 0 1 0

INSTRUMENTS 169 TWO-PART HARMONY: Ermenegildo Zegna seeks Girard-Perregaux’s

expertise for its centennial timepiece

PALATE 185 JUST LIKE MAMA’S: Italian authenticity comes first at Otto’s in Red

Dot Traffic Museum

171 HIT PARADE: News-making timepieces from the Basel and Geneva

watch fairs

DESTINATIONS 188 NATURE STUDY: Discover a lost Eden at the Galapagos Islands off

Ecuador

175 PLAYING IT COOL: Jasper Morrison and Rado collaboration sees two

legendary proponents of less-is-more design go head-to-head

UTILITY 192 GROOVE PATROL: Summer-appropriate kerbside chic by The Hereen

179 WORK IT OUT: Wallet-friendly sports watches 183 MOVING ON UP: Nokia’s travel buddy application Ovi Maps steals the

spotlight at the mobile giant’s 2010 showcase 184 LIFE, RELOADED: Enhance your life with these nifty smartphone

applications

188

A dramatic lava landscape hints at the very recent volcanic activity that is still forming Fernandina Island, westernmost of the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVE G HOUSER

177 ELEMENTARY ELEGANCE: ck Watch’s latest timepieces keep it clean

and chic

NEW INSTRUMENT BR 01 CARBON FIBER 46 MM . CARBON FIBER CASE

Bell & Ross Boutique : 333A Orchard Road #01-15 Mandarin Gallery Singapore 238897 • Tel : (65) 6884 6471 • Fax : (65) 6884 6472 • bellross.mandaringallery@fjbenjamin.com

www.bellross.com

Available at: All Watches Wisma Atria Tel: 6733 2823 • Cortina Watch Ion Orchard Tel: 6509 9218 Millenia Walk Tel: 6339 1728 Raffles City Tel: 6339 9185 • Dickson Watch & Jewellery Wisma Atria Tel: 6737 6451 Sincere Fine Watches Lucky Plaza Tel: 6737 4593 Ngee Ann City Tel: 6733 0618 Suntec City Tel: 6337 5150 VivoCity Tel: 6278 1698 • Swiss Watch Gallery Resorts World Sentosa Tel: 6732 8022 • Watches of Switzerland Paragon Tel: 6732 9793 Tampines Mall Tel: 6783 6535 F J Benjamin Service Centre • 230 Orchard Road, #04-230 Faber House, Singapore 238854 • Service Centre: (65) 6736 3933 • Office: (65) 6737 0155 • www.fjbenjamin.com

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M E N ’S F O L I O T E A M M AY / J U N 2 0 1 0 Publisher/Editorial Director EDDY KOH Managing Editor ALVIN WONG Fashion Editor KIEN KOH Assistant Editor JOSHUA YAP Editor At Large MARC ALMAGRO Copy Editor SHEILA OLIVEIRO Senior Writer WONG KEE SOON Assistant Stylist TOK WEI LUN Marketing Managers SHAMIL ABIDIN JOY LEE Sales & Marketing Executives BRENDA FANG CJ LOH INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS

Marketing Coordinator KAI

MEN’S FOLIO MALAYSIA HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor Mail Box 334 KL Plaza 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur Malaysia Tel (603) 2148 9923 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia

Art Directors GINA TOH HAN Graphic Designer JEREMY GOH Design Director YEE WAI FONG

MEN’S FOLIO HONG KONG HEART MEDIA LIMITED Unit 2001 20th Floor 9-11 Leighton Road Causeway Bay Hong Kong Tel (852) 2573 9983 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia

MEN’S FOLIO MICA (P) No. 041/01/2010 & ISSN 0219-0982 is a publication of HEART PUBLISHING PTE LTD 129 Devonshire Road Singapore 239886 Telephone (65) 6733 9931 Facsimile (65) 6733 5661 Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd No part of MEN’S FOLIO may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written consent from Heart Publishing Pte Ltd MEN’S FOLIO 22

MEN’S FOLIO INDONESIA PT. KINGPIN MEDIA PO Box 6169 JKUPL 1440 Tel +62 21 5790 1128 / 5785 2888 Email info@kingpinmedia.co.id

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V O I C E text: alvin wong

THE

PURSUIT

OF

HAPPINESS Fashion magazines, as this rag obstinately believes, are built on escapism. Never mind the economy/taxes/mortgages/ heartbreaks/health scares – let’s celebrate! The world has nothing on us when solace can be sought from artfully bound parcels promising the delights of a new wardrobe.

Each summer typically blooms with seasonal fashion evoking cheerfulness – bright colours, assertive prints, cheeky accessories, languid silhouettes... It is almost like the opposite of a psychosomatic treatment. Instead of positive thinking to influence physical well-being, the material world helps perk up the mind. But what happens after the clothes have been sent to the dry cleaners and the heavily weighted boxes are discarded? How do we stay happy?

A recent World Happiness Survey by the London School of Economics revealed that people in richer nations like Switzerland and Austria are far unhappier than their poorer counterparts in Dominican Republic and Armenia. (The Bangladeshis ranked as the happiest, by the way). Now, we know money cannot buy happiness. But the report also tellingly infers that the more we have, the more we want.

As much as this magazine extols the benefits of luxury distractions, we also believe in stopping to smell the roses. In fact (excuse the olfactory obsession), the sooner we get rid of the proverbial carrot in front of our noses, the better we can start feeling better about ourselves. We normally resist the urge to slip into an Oprah moment but the talk-show guru wins this time. “Be thankful for what you have; you’ll end up having more,” she once said. We can’t help but agree.

Summer’s ready when you are.

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C O U T U R E text: wong kee soon

C H A T

combined classic

Here’s another reason to swoon at the new Peugeot SR1 Concept Car – a futuristic dashboard souped up by Swiss watch brand Bell & Ross’ BR 01-inspired timepiece. This exclusively designed watch fits neatly into a special slot, acting as a temporary timekeeper onboard the four-wheeler.

Anchored by asymmetrical dial engravings, this 46mm monochromatic watch in steel with leather strap matches the upholstery, embodying the elegance and futuristic virtuosity of the automobile.

road warrior

Unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show and then at BaselWorld 2010, the TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster is the new ride celebrating the Swiss marque’s 150th anniversary. Inspired by the new TAG Heuer concept watch, the electric car’s exterior boasts watch movement graphics on its grey body flanked by iconic green and red hues on rear view mirrors. Its cabin is a mix of past and present, exemplified by a TAG Heuer Meridiist mobile phone and a one-fifth second Heuer limited edition stopwatch, which pays tribute to its vintage stopwatches.

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UNIT 01-48, PARAGON, TEL. 65.6738.3323 • LEVEL 1, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE TEL. 65.6738.2212

C O U T U R E

C H A T

oriental bliss

Hermes pays homage to its Tunisian-born designer Leila Menchari with OrientHermes, an exhibition that features eight of her most imaginative window displays for the French fashion house since 1978.

At the exhibition, visitors get to view demonstrations from specialist trades including a stone cutter, a coppersmith, a glassmaker and an Hermes saddler. Held at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, Orient-Hermes will end its run on June 6.

family values A pocket watch manufactured in 1897, offered by Rama V, King of Siam

Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition makes a stop in Singapore from May 27-30. Held at The St Regis Singapore, and titled The Values Of A Family Watch Company, the exhibition will showcase over 250 new and rare timepieces from its 171-year archive, the most complete and comprehensive set of Patek Philippe timepieces shown outside of Switzerland. This is its first stop in South-east Asia after stints in New York, Los Angeles and Milan.

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fashion brief

Gucci’s pop-up sneaker store hit London for three glorious weeks in April, its third worldwide appearance after New York and Miami. The London stint held special significance as it is the birth city of English musician Mark Ronson, who collaborated with Gucci on designer sneakers such as New York Gucci Ronson and Miami Gucci Ronson.

parcel prosperity Paul Smith brought his whimsical fan-based exhibition from its successful stint at Thailand’s Siam Paragon to the opening of his new boutique in Ocean Centre in Hong Kong. Formerly housed in his office, the Stamped Objects Exhibition features a huge collection of random, unpackaged objects stamped and posted to him by a secret admirer since 1998. Quirky items on display include a watering can, a bicycle saddle, a wheelbarrow, a bucket and rubber gloves.

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helping hand

agnès b. lends a helping hand to the victims of the Haiti earthquake with proceeds from the sale of limited edition badges and T-shirts. The label designed a new logo to commemorate the charitable cause – a caricature of the Haiti map enveloped by an agnès b.-style heart. This initiative sees 100 per cent of the proceeds donated to the Action Against Hunger organisation.

Available at all AGNÈS B. boutiques

century high Samsonite celebrates 100 years with a two-week outdoor exhibition, Samsonite – A Century Of Going Places. Held at TANGS Orchard promenade in April, the American travel luggage label displayed original pieces from the 1940s to the current crop of modern designs, highlighting the progress and craftsmanship since its founding in Denver, Colorado. To commemorate the occasion, Samsonite launched a limited edition Attaché, an interpretation of 1960s attachés.

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C H A T Andy Garcia and Jeff Bridges

film frenzy Piaget remains an avid supporter of cinema and the arts, sponsoring the Independent Spirit Awards for the third consecutive year. In conjunction with the ceremony, the high-end jewellery and luxury watch label hosted a preview of its latest products at the Piaget lounge, which was attended by celebrities including Adrien Brody, Pierce Brosnan, Tom Ford and Lenny Kravitz.

Adrien Brody

Ryan Seacrest in Burberry

Jake Gyllenhaal in Burberry

suit locker

Stars in sharp suits charmed the red carpet at the 82nd Annual Academy Awards. Especially deserving of plaudits were Oscar nominee Jeremy Renner, who wore an Emporio Armani three-piece tuxedo with notch lapels; Ryan Seacrest and Jake Gyllenhaal, who were in Burberry custom-tailored black tuxedoes; Taylor Lautner in a Dolce & Gabbana black shawl collar tuxedo with cummerbund and bow tie, and Jeff Bridges, who picked up his Best Actor award in a suave Gucci black suit.

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Taylor Lautner in Dolce & Gabbana

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F R O N T L I N E text: joshua yap

BRIT BRED Church’s shoes, the footwear of choice for the elite, bring its blend of innovation and time-honoured craftsmanship to the well-heeled in ION Orchard

Imagine a world where shoes come in identical pieces instead of mirror images of one another. Well, this world actually existed before 1881 until Church’s introduced the concept of left and right shoes that follow the natural form of the foot. The brand which revolutionised footwear recently debuted here with a flagship boutique at ION Orchard. But connoisseurs of fine footwear seek it out knowing that Church’s has got a lot more going for it than history.

Church’s ION Orchard boutique underlines the brand’s shoemaking ethos with a juxtaposition of old-world charm and contemporary elements

MEN’S FOLIO 38

EXACTING STANDARDS

Church’s full range of travel gear, leather goods and shoe accessories are also available at ION

Established in 1873 by Thomas Church and his three sons, the legendary English footwear company is renowned for being an innovator as much as a traditionalist. While it still hand crafts its footwear in its Northampton workshop like it did 136 years ago, it also embraces modern construction like the Goodyear Welted Flexible sole that produces lithe and light shoes.

Each pair of Church’s shoes takes up to eight weeks and 250 steps to produce. Goodyear Welting is integral to the shoe’s construction. It involves first joining the insole and the upper of the shoe by sewing them onto a welt or strip of hand-cut leather. This is then stitched to the bottom of the shoe to enable the sole to be easily detached for repairs and resoling, a convenient feature that former UK’s Prime Minister Tony Blair appreciates as he reportedly had his 18-year-old Church’s shoes resoled only once.

Each pair of Church’s handcrafted footwear takes up to eight weeks to produce in its Northampton workshops

DASHING ENTRANCE

Previously available here in limited quantities, the ION boutique stocks Church’s full collection along with leather and travel goods, accessories and ties. Occupying 250 sqm, the boutique is designed by Italian architect Roberto Baciocchi, famed for his work on Prada and Miu Miu boutiques.

Taking stylistic cues from Church’s stores in London, Venice, Milan and Hong Kong, the Singapore outlet juxtaposes luxurious wood panelling with linear polished steel elements to convey intimacy and refinement. Lavish leather settees elevate the fitting experience and the hours will whizz past if one’s not careful.

Church’s neophyte will do well to invest in a pair of classic dress shoes from its continuative range that one might have seen on Pierce Brosnan as James Bond. However, for more adventurous designs, check out its off-white Spring/Summer 2010 offering that sees the brand reworking some of its best-loved brogues and loafers in bleached-out styles – the perfect accompaniments for lightcoloured summer suits. o Go light-footed this season with Church’s off-white Spring/Summer 2010 collection

CHURCH’S ION Orchard #02-08 Tel: 6238 1089 www.church-footwear.com

MEN’S FOLIO 39

SHARPEN UP AR0428 in stainless steel with black croco-embossed leather strap

Sartorial distinction is never in doubt with Emporio Armani. But to truly complete the get-up, accentuate the look with a well-considered timepiece or jewellery AR0455 in stainless steel with black smooth leather strap

Emporio Armani

AR5876 in stainless steel with textured silicon strap

watches come in a range of styles spanning sporty sexiness to black-tie refinement, allowing one to rock both the boardroom and the bar with equal confidence. Crafted in polished stainless steel, each watch features pronged hour and minute hands and easy-to-read markers.

AR5878 in stainless steel with textured silicon strap

EMPORIO ARMANI

WATCH & JEWELLERY

FEATURE

EG2755 sterling silver and Picasso stone pendant

EG2766 Necklace with sterling silver tag EG2767 Sterling silver ring with groove details

EG2759 Cufflinks with wood inlay

Like its Italian made suits, Emporio Armani’s jewellery dishes out sophistication in spades. Taking centre stage this season are sterling silver rectangular and square pendants, textured rings and cufflinks with wood inlay.

FLIRTING F R O N T L I N E text: wong kee soon

WITH FEMME Celebrated ladies’ bag labels get in touch with their masculine side

Coach redesigns its ‘C’ monogram into a modern op art version

Furla explores classic men’s bags with Furla Uomo

Longchamp’s men’s line displays a sombre front, highlighted by aged cowhide leather and a new logo

Loewe downsizes its quadruple ‘L’ insignia for its male Amazona handbags

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F R O N T L I N E

Coach renders a new carriage logo and monogram for its travel bags and works on new materials like treated canvas for its totes

Furla Uomo utilises playful material combinations in classics such as a nylon-opaque leather messenger bag

The strong and regal silhouette of the Amazona totes personify the Loewe man

LIFE IN MONO

Redesigning a recognisable monogram is as risky as Roger Federer’s ‘RF’ insignia faux pas at Wimbledon, but a change is in order at Coach. Its famed ‘C’ monogram became a popular status symbol for women at the start of the 21st century. Two years ago, the American label released a radical outline ‘op art’ monogram to update its traditional-looking predecessor. Today, its symmetrical appeal is embellished on its Spring 2010 men’s collection of slim, striped totes, luxurious Boston bags and sporty duffels.

Despite changing its appearance with a subtler logo and new fabrics like treated canvas and cotton, Coach’s men’s line retains signature silhouettes like the box shape of its Harrison leather totes reminiscent of Madison carryalls, and the use of lightweight leather on its Thompson range.

Ian Bickley, president of Coach International, says: “Our trademarks have always been modern, relevant and fused with unparalleled craftsmanship. You may not always see our classic monogram and details, but you will experience quality leathers and fabrics that are our true hallmarks.”

BASIC INSTINCT

Italian fashion label Furla, which launched Furla Uomo in 2007, sticks to the classics for Spring/ Summer 2010. With its famed material combinations, the versatile collection caters to modern and trendy everyman with the elegance and exuberance of its feminine range. Highlights include creased sheep skin totes, nylon-opaque leather messenger bags and oiled crocodile-calfskin briefcases.

Like Coach and Longchamp, which started with small leather goods for men in 1941 and 1955, respectively, before finding success with ladies lines, Loewe’s rich heritage in men’s leather goods helped pave the way for its current ready-to-wear collections and grooming products.

The ‘Loewe man’ was conceptualised before 1900 and expressed in exquisite leather overnight bags. But in the 1940s and 1970s the Spanish label became famous for the classic boxcalf handbag and Nappa bag, making it a favourite among the ladies. However, this Spring/ Summer 2010, its men’s collection continues its line of iconic Amazona bags with a military-inspired construction in suede and calf leather stamped with the famed quadruple ‘L’ insignia. The focus is on strong silhouettes with the logo downsized for its Amazona and Anagram collections.

Far from forsaking their popular identity, men’s bags from celebrated women’s labels encapsulate a feminine DNA that excites with livelier and more creative designs. They have the imagination and, ironically, the balls to create worthy imitable pieces rather than manufacture endless basics that serve the status quo. For now, perhaps, the women know best.o MEN’S FOLIO 44

INFO: 65-6533 8480 • 02-07-223 2898

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F R O N T L I N E text: brian cheong

PICTURE PERFECT MEN’S FOLIO 47

Tod’s iconic status goes under the spotlight in a series of blackand-white family portraits by renowned New York lensman Elliott Erwitt If a picture paints a thousand words, then Elliott Erwitt’s 40 black-and-white photographs make a very strong case for the Italian label’s place in the upper echelons of modern fashion. In them, the veteran photographer captures cosmopolitan families across Europe and the US wearing Tod’s classics.

F R O N T L I N E

The Gommino shoes are crafted entirely by hand

The collaborative project, Icons by an Icon, is aimed at “representing Tod’s contemporary elegance”. It was first seen in Milan at the Spring/Summer 2010 shows and will go on a world tour with stops in London, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Icons by an Icon bears similarities to Italian Touch, Tod’s coffee-table book which features distinguished Italian families wearing Tod’s.

The 82-year-old photographer’s participation came as a result of his acquaintance with Emanuele Della Valle, the eldest son of Tod’s founder, Diego. “My Italian agent introduced me to Emanuele who is passionate about photography. We became good friends and one day he proposed this idea. It was interesting since I’ve known Tod’s far longer than I’ve known Emanuele!

“It was the perfect project for me,” he adds. “The pictures are very natural and they are in complete harmony with the kind of work I’ve always done.”

Elliot has been described as “a master of indecisive moment”, known for capturing irony and humour in everyday situations. Early in his career, he helmed Magnum Photos, a prestigious photojournalist agency founded by Robert Capa. He has exhibited at MOMA in New York, The Chicago Art Institute, Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Barbican in London and Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid, and has published some 20 photography books. An erstwhile documentary maker in the 1970s, Elliot’s most notable work was 1977’s Glassmakers of Herat, Afghanistan.

Commenting on his biggest foray into the fashion world, Elliott is unabashed in his compliments for the Italian label. “I appreciate simplicity and true beauty that last, as well as a little bit of wit and eclecticism that make life more fun.

Tod’s embodies a lot of these elements with timeless style, an informal approach and unfettered elegance.”

For more information on Elliott Erwitt, visit www.elliotterwitt.com

Tod’s Gommino shoes, instantly recognisable by the 133 pebbles on each sole, are among today’s most coveted fashion items

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F R O N T L I N E Diego Della Valle

ICON ON ICONS

Diego Della Valle sheds more light on the making of Icons by an Icon

On the birth of Icons by an Icon

The project is an evolution from Italian Touch, a coffeetable book on modern Italians that we launched in September 2009. Just like our very own icons such as the Gommino driving shoes, Elliott Erwitt’s photographs are timeless and unique, and through his brilliance and wit, he captured the essence of Tod’s world. The portraits of these (European and American) families shot in their homes celebrate Tod’s DNA and, above all, Tod’s iconic products.

Elliott Erwitt

On working with Elliott Erwitt

Elliott is a family friend and his works convey a world of understated elegance that is also Tod’s philosophy. It just so happened that Elliott understands the brand and his concept was very much what we were looking for. We agreed on the details almost immediately. The portraits are very natural and exactly as we have expected from his concept of life.

On the message behind the photographs

On Tod’s own icon

An icon is a celebration of craftsmanship, design and art. The Gommino was created with the intention of combining classic Italian style with functionality, and a shoe that can be worn at any occasion. Each pair underlines Tod’s commitment to the finest Italian craftsmanship from using the best leather to its hand-stitched production.o

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PICTURES COURTESY OF TOD’S

I hope people can understand Tod’s message of timeless elegance and modern luxuries in everyday life a little better. These portraits tell a story of three generations of quality and good taste. All the families chosen are people who lead and enjoy normal lives.

Laurel at Ann Siang | Orchard Cineleisure | ION Orchard | Takashimaya

Dolce & Gabbana menswear from 1990 to 2010

F R O N T L I N E text: seraphina woon portrait: mario testino

NO APOLOGIES Armed with a searing vision of male vanity and disregard for armchair critics, Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana marks the 20th anniversary of its menswear collection this year.

Men’s Folio pays tribute

Stefano Gabbana (left) and Domenico Dolce

The debut menswear collection from 1990, while hinting at future outlandish styles, placed strong emphasis on traditional tailoring and luxurious fabrics

Milan, January 1990. Two intrepid Italian fashion designers embarked on a new advent in their career

with a debut menswear collection. They were confident enough in the lead-up to the fashion week, but one never knows. Five years ago, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed their first womenswear collection in a small apartment in Milan, with Dolce’s sister and brother at the door. But their exuberant designs caught on and the Dolce & Gabbana label was quickly hailed as a new maverick of Italian fashion.

But will its highly opinionated fashion vision be as well-received by the men?

Menswear fashion was at a crossroads in 1990. Consumers were hungry for something fresh; many eager to shed the excessive styles of the 1980s. For its menswear launch, Dolce & Gabbana hoped to assert its disdain for frivolous trends. Evoking a dressy Mediterranean style, the inaugural collection featured handsewn jackets, reversible coats, liberal use of scarves and luxurious fabrics for shirts. Like a uniform, there is a straight-forward quality to the clothes. But while Dolce & Gabbana announced its arrival in menswear with quiet and lofty statements, it wasn’t going to be defined by them.

In the past two decades, Dolce & Gabbana menswear has lilted from the precariously opulent to the severely austere, but impeccable tailoring has always been a cornerstone. For a “truthful” aesthetic, the duo proclaimed that their designs must be in sync with the moment. The result is a back catalogue of diverse styles that fuelled many dinner conversations. From wacky geometric shapes, loud animal prints and ripped denims, to bafflingly plain, classic suits, Dolce & Gabbana has toyed with them all. While this looks schizophrenic to the untrained eye, fans of Dolce & Gabbana see it as one of the label’s most inimitable traits.

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F R O N T L I N E

Inspired by their Sicily hometown and classic Italian movies, Dolce & Gabbana’s 2010 collection is not short of dandified exuberance despite a muted palette

For this year’s 20th anniversary collection, the label decides to go full circle by flagging Sicily, the hometown of its founders. Wearing its heritage like a badge of honour – and as if admonishing money-grubbing financiers responsible for last year’s financial meltdown – the duo paraded muted greys, browns and beiges for Spring/Summer, and contrasted fine tailoring with distressed work wear, newsboy caps, worn-in tank tops, frayed jeans, long johns and dusty, beat-up boots for Autumn/Winter.

Twenty years on, Dolce & Gabbana menswear has become integral to an empire that includes its women’s line, the D&G diffusion label, underwear, accessories, watches and fragrances. The only creative constant in its famously chameleonic collections is the founders’ refusal to be pigeon-holed. “We could never work in a company where we have to justify our creations,” Stefano asserted in an interview with The Guardian.

It seemed almost appropriate that the 2010 menswear collections echo its debut by focusing on the core tenets of men’s fashion – highly luxurious, impeccably crafted and unapologetic. The final sentiment rings especially true, and was tellingly manifested in 2007, when Dolce & Gabbana was accused of promoting misogyny in its Spring/Summer 2007 advertising campaign that showed images of men pinning women to the ground. The label eventually pulled out the ad, but not before calling its detractors “a bit backward”.o MEN’S FOLIO 55

PICTURES COURTESY OF DOLCE & GABBANA

Celebrities enamoured by Dolce & Gabbana include David Beckham, Colin Ferrell and Robert Pattinson

special

INTO

Bull’s skull pendant with black zirconia pave

THE

Rebel boot pendant

WILD Scorpion pendant

THOMAS SABO’S REBEL AT HEART COLLECTION RALLIES THE INNER BEAST

Be a rebel with a cause. Thomas Sabo parades tenacity and defiantly alternative designs with sterling silver pendants, calfskin leather bracelets and rock-solid stainless steel watches from the Rebel At Heart line. Masculine pendant charms are brandished with a bull’s skull or a scorpion, conjuring images of harsh elements of sand dunes and desert storms. To evoke the rough riding spirit, statements are made with motorcycle and biker motifs. Meanwhile, plaited bracelets and embossed bracelet timekeepers equip the wrists of city slickers, bracing for the extremes of the urban jungle. It is all about answering primal passions with Thomas Sabo, and we dare you not to be chicken about it.

Rebel At Heart watch with black leather bracelet embossed with cross pattern

Rebel At Heart chronograph with black leather bracelet with rivets Plaited leather bracelet

ION ORCHARD,

2 Orchard Turn, #B1-26

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F R O N T L I N E text: li haohan

MAD DOGS, ENGLISHMEN

AND ELEPHANTS Audermars Piguet wins the 9th King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament, a sporting extravaganza that raises funds for Thai elephant care and rehab camps

Trust bored expatriates, particularly the Brits, to come up with downright ridiculous activities that are eventually embraced worldwide as a sport. Theories abound about the elephant polo’s origins but it’s far easier to imagine that all it took were a few sun-addled, G&T-pickled expats saddling up a pachyderm and knocking a few balls about with a broomstick.

But this less-than-dignified apocryphal history matters little – if at all – for at least two reasons: elephant polo has indeed become a surprisingly exciting game played on four continents. The governing World Elephant Polo Association (WEPA) counts member organisations across the globe and the game itself is registered as an Olympic sport with the Nepal Olympic Committee. There is even talk that it might be included in the London Olympics in 2012.

More importantly, it has benefitted elephant conservation causes in tremendous ways. Asian tournaments are now held in Thailand, Sri Lanka and Nepal – the first hosts the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament that is now a nine-year-old social and money spinner. WEPA itself has raised funds for the International Trust for Nature Conservation. Obviously much slower than traditional polo, it is fast catching up in upper-class appeal.

The Kalaan brothers and Peter Prentice hoist the trophy

A scuffle breaks out to the delight of spectators

In March, the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament once again thrilled the throng gathered on the field by the compounds of the Anantara Resort Golden Triangle in the northernmost Thai province of Chiang Rai, where for a week 12 teams battled it out to win the Cup and raise money for the National Elephant Institute, originally launched as the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre.

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F R O N T L I N E

Finesse and technique know no gender

PICTURES COURTESY OF AUDEMARS PIGUET

Elephants break into semi-canter

The AP team line up before his Majesty’s portrait

The tournament’s beneficiary runs elephants camps throughout Thailand that serve as homes to retired logging elephants as well as those that are disabled, sick or rescued from harsh circumstances. They also house the mahouts – elephant trainers – and their families. The sporting extravaganza has raised about US$300,000 since the time it was launched in 2001 and has funded elephant health care and rehabilitation, camps upkeep, mahout training and the like. Elephant population in Thailand has dwindled to just about 4,000, of which only 1,500 are in the wilds.

This year, Audemars Piguet returned as principal sponsor of the tourney and also emerged as winner of the Cup. Team Audemars Piguet features Angad ‘Dark Horse of Delhi’ Kalaan who has earned renown as pony and elephant polo prodigy, and his brother Uday Kalaan, who has led the Indian national polo team and now runs the 30-acre Haryana Polo Club that their family has started outside New Delhi in 2001. (Their father, Col. Raj Kalaan, was captain of the Indian Polo Team.) Team captain is Peter Prentice, an elephant polo veteran and captain of the six-time world champion Chivas Scotland Squad. Oliviero Bottinelli, CEO of Audemars Piguet South-east Asia, is the team’s steward.

If one were to go by AP’s sports sponsorship history, the elephant polo would be an anomaly given that Audemars Piguet has been associated with high-profile, high-octane racing – Alinghi’s back-to-back triumphs at the America’s Cup and Sebastien Buemi’s exploits on the Formula 1 circuit. AP has also collaborated with other F1 drivers Juan Pablo Montoya and Rubens Barrichello, producing limited edition pieces for the brand’s iconic models. The speed angle, not to mention public adulation, is conspicuously absent in the pachyderm polo.

MEN’S FOLIO 60

But if one were to consider the seldom glimpsed aspect of the brand, particularly the Audemars Piguet Foundation, its participation in the tournament is not unnatural. In 1992, to mark the 20th anniversary of its Royal Oak collection, Audemars Piguet set up a foundation dedicated to environmental conservation and featured programmes for reforestation, forest conservation and ecological awareness. Today, the not-forprofit Foundation is the force behind fine efforts in conservation – from replanting fire-ravaged forests in Portugal and France to halting desertification in Namibia and Brazil, and rallying ethnic tribes behind forest conservation in the Congo and Thailand.

With the appropriate green team uniform, Audemars Piguet’s participation in the game is an extension of its commitment to environmental causes. Not only does the brand sponsor and compete in the event, it also gives generously to the cause. Indeed, for the auction held at the gala dinner preceding the finals game, a gem-encrusted Audemars Piguet Millenary Pianoforte was the top lot that brought in the biggest single-item bid.

Goodwill was palpable at the end of the weeklong tournament. Players and spectators who occupied clearly marked territories on the playing field have at last mingled for drinks and laughter.

Promises to return next year were frequently exchanged. But the real winner of the tournament, as one pundit rightly put it, were the elephants. o

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3/15/10 10:15:00 PM

F R O N T L I N E text: kien koh

MAKING

WAVES

After breaking ties with the America’s Cup, Louis Vuitton is setting its own benchmark for competitive sailing with the Louis Vuitton Trophy

I confess to being not much of a sea-sports person, so it was with some surprise that I found myself glued to a live broadcast of the Louis Vuitton Trophy regatta.

And there they were on the screen, Team New Zealand battling it out with Italy’s Team Azzura and Team Mascalzone Latino, just a few nautical miles away from the comfort of the Louis Vuitton VIP yacht off Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour.

True sailing fans will hate me for this, but hey, it’s Louis Vuitton, so soaking in the outdoors in style was never debatable.

Competing teams head out of Waitemata Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand’s city of sails

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F R O N T L I N E The coveted Louis Vuitton trophy

Team New Zealand in action

Yves Carcelle congratulating sailors of the winning Team New Zealand

Hollywood actor Sam Neil with chairman and Louis Vuitton CEO Yves Carcelle

What was once the Louis Vuitton Cup, a preliminary round challenge where the two top teams would go on to compete in the America’s Cup, the Louis Vuitton Trophy has evolved into a full regatta. Formed in 2009 following the success of the Louis Vuitton Pacific Series in Auckland in 2008, it attracts the world’s most competitive sailing teams. Sailing enthusiasts might even go further to say that the Louis Vuitton Trophy, which has nine teams from seven countries competing for top honours over 12 days, is more gruelling and exciting than the long-standing America’s Cup which comprises just two teams.

“In some ways, this regatta helped save the sport,” says Yves Carcelle, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton. “We wanted teams to compete on equal technical terms using equalised boats so that the race boiled down to tactical strength and the quality of the sailors. The America’s Cup has been rather autocratic so we felt a need, in the spirit of competition and sportsmanship, to take matters into our own hands. I think it has paid off.”

Like an F1 race for the high seas, the world of competitive sailing is moneyed and loaded with glamour, drawing keen coverage in the US and Europe. The trophy might bear Louis Vuitton’s name, but luxury brands from Emirates to Audi are more than happy to join the party as team sponsors.

After all, a little brand association doesn’t hurt.

“Louis Vuitton feels close to the sport because both the sport and the brand have a long-standing tradition dating back to the 1800s,” expounds Yves. “We possess elegance in our DNA and have evolved with the times. We also share a passion for modernity, tradition and universal reach.

The regatta brings teams from all over the world and is held around the globe, just as the Louis Vuitton brand is constantly expanding our borders.”

An avid sailor himself, Yves would not discount the possibility of the Louis Vuitton Trophy mounting a serious challenge to the America’s Cup as the world’s most prestigious sailing competition. Meantime, like the rest of us on the VIP spectator boat, he is just happy to hop onboard for the ride. o

The Louis Vuitton Trophy collection includes aerodynamic athletic shades

MEN’S FOLIO 64

F R O N T L I N E

text: wong kee soon photography: frank oudeman, sean sime and skot yobbagy

FIRST BITE Ten years after its maison’s opening in the Big Apple, Hermes returns to familiar grounds with a flagship men’s boutique, Hermes Man

“It’s serendipity,” says Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermes general artistic director, on the choice of New York City for the Hermes Man boutique, the first men’s store for the 173-year family-owned business.

Pierre-Alexis is referring to the timely availability of 690 Madison Avenue – a charming four-storey building opposite its existing women’s boutique – just when the French luxury house decided to raise the profile of its gents’ line.

Veronique Nichanian, artistic director of men’s ready-to-wear, describes the Parisiandesigned boutique as “the boy next door”, alluding to the proximity to its female counterpart and its reserved appearance, marked by an austere brownstone facade.

References to a coy neighbour, however, end the moment one steps inside. A radical departure from the exterior’s sobriety, the interior is an amalgamation of a traditional tailor’s shop and the original Parisian store at 24 Faubourg SaintHonore. The modern and spacious 2,450-sq ft store is virtually a walk-in wardrobe framed by high ceilings, luxurious tinted wood panels and luscious tiled and carpeted floors.

F R O N T L I N E One is greeted with Greek key elements bordering the doorway, and a grey and white tiled floor similar to its original Parisian boutique

The view of the ground floor from the mezzanine

The prestigious fourth level provides custom orders and made-to-measure services

The exclusive brick red-themed collection for Hermes Man includes baseball gloves, quicker shoes, shoe polish set and an overnight bag

MEN’S FOLIO 66

PICTURES COURTESY OF HERMES

Each of the four levels provides an insight into the Hermes Man. The ground floor stocks essentials like shirts, silk ties and small leather goods, while the mezzanine carries knitwear, sportswear and travel accessories. The highlight is on the upper floors, furnished with cherrywood fixtures and leather armchairs that evoke the privacy of a lavish abode.

Coined as the “floor of dreams” by Veronique, it is a haven for suits, shoes and briefcases. The highest floor, the boutique’s most prestigious, is devoted to special orders and made-to-measure wear with an in-house tailor on standby.

Hermes’ propensity for the finer things extends to limited edition handcrafted objects, created to match the facade’s ‘Hermes red’, and available exclusively at the Hermes Man boutique. A handcrafted leather baseball glove pays tribute to its American home and flaunts the label’s first-rate handstitching. Other exclusive keepsakes available include a Statue of Liberty-Eiffel Tower silk tie, a shoe polish set, a pair of sneakers and an overnight bag.

“My greatest wish would be for a customer to start to write his own story with an Hermes object,” says Pierre-Alexis. Although inaugurating Hermes Man in New York City before Paris would raise a few eyebrows, the former saddle-maker’s foresight to affirm its place in the core of a competitive retail district is anything but accidental.o

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EXPRESS SERVICE Put your own stamp on a businesswear icon with a made-to-measure Armani suit

The Armani suit has been a dominant

force in corporate wear since 1980 when Richard Gere buttoned up in one for the movie American Gigolo. Smart, sexy and cocksure, its austere, unconstructed silhouette, articulated in a selection of supple materials, practically moulds itself to the wearer in a way that exuberantly padded varieties do not.

Imagine then the same suit custom-made, its make and material dictated by the owner in order to highlight or downplay specific qualities as he wishes.

What you get is a highly personalised garment, reflecting in detail the wearer’s taste. Known as Armani Collezioni Fatto a Mano su Misura, the garment also benefits from the high-level personalisation and exclusivity of commissioning a bespoke suit as well as the speed and flexibility of selecting from a prêt-a-porter line.

MEN’S FOLIO 68

F R O N T L I N E The client becomes the ‘designer’, from choosing his own fabric to the position of buttons and linings

The trader cut is recommended for the Asian frame with its narrower waist and trendier design

Armani’s custom tailoring engages the client in the creative process, handing him the role of designer for his own label. As proof of his ‘collaboration’, his name is embroidered above the inside breast pocket, next to Mr Armani’s.

With the help of an in-house tailor, the process begins by selecting a flattering fit from the ‘sartorial’ and ‘trader’ silhouettes. The first is a classic cut that generally suits a tall and lean physique, while the second is a trendier design with narrower waist, and fits the slimmer Asian frame well.

On the client, the master garment is adjusted and tucked with pins until the desired shape, length and hang are achieved, and measurements are taken. The client then focuses on fabrics – at his disposal is a selection of 300 classic and seasonal samples – for the shell and the lining, types and colours of buttons, number and placement of pockets, vents, lapel and other minutiae of a highly personalised suit. Other requests are taken into consideration, and the measurements are sent to Italy where the suits are made. After six weeks or so, the custom suit is ready for collection.

This initial procedure ensures more efficient service in the future as the client’s measurements are retained for future reference; fabric swatches can also be sent to his home or office for selection.

To ensure comfort even in warm weather, Armani offers superfine wools such as Super 180s (weighing only 180g) that are suitable for humid weather.

Wool is a traditional, lightweight suiting material that drapes well on the body. It is also durable and can withstand years of dry cleaning without losing its shape. In the hands of Armani professionals, these qualities are brought to the fore for years of pleasurable, distinctive dressing.o GIORGIO ARMANI Fatto a Mano su Misura is available at #02-09, ION Orchard. Tel: 6304 1368

MEN’S FOLIO 70

Located above the inside breast pocket, the wearer’s initials are sewn next to the fashion icon’s name as proof of this ‘collaboration’

The boutique at ION Orchard has a dedicated area for the made-to-measure experience

Renoma Special

The Guy’s Guide to Style Details You may be wearing the sharpest of suits or most dapper of shirts, but the secret to true style is in the details. French fashion brand Renoma has some sartorial sidekicks you can’t leave home without.

REP folded top shopper bag, $259.

REP laptop bag, $259.

REP document bag, $229.

F

REP messenger bag, $199.

STR coin purse, $49.

STR passport holder, $49.

or the average guy, accessories are probably the farthest things from his mind, but any David Beckham-in-training knows that what you wear isn’t all about the clothes on your back. Accessories like bags, wallets and shoes can make or break your outfit. Whatever you do, don’t be afraid of mags (read: man bags). Just because your girlfriend carries one, doesn’t mean that you can’t. They’re the best way to carry your stuff around without looking clumsy and you can forget about losing your phone or file when they’re all tucked into one neat package. For work, stick to structured hold-alls like slim briefcases or shopper styles to make an impression — check out the REP document bag ($229) or REP folded top shopper bag ($259). Carry-alls can also make a statement on the weekends: The ubiquitous messenger bag is a style staple for the average guy. Case in point: The REP messenger bag ($199).

When it comes to smaller goods, watch out that your wallet doesn’t look as ratty as your oldest pair of sneakers, instead opt for high-quality leather that doesn’t wear out so easily and says volumes about your sense of dapper fashion like the STR line.

Choose neutral colours like black or brown, so your sidekicks will go a long way in matching the rest of your closet.

When in doubt, don’t be afraid to ask for help from your most trusted fashion female friend. Yes, we know you don’t want to have to resort to this, but it will be worth the effort to look as good as you feel. R ALL BAGS BY RENOMA. AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING DEPARTMENT STORES.

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H O T L O T

styling: weilun photography: jeff chen / calibre

1 D&G

grey two-tone suede leather desert boots

STOMP WARRIORS A CULT CLASSIC INSPIRED BY CREPE-SOLED BOOTS WORN BY BRITISH OFFICERS DURING WORLD WAR II, THE DESERT BOOT MARCHES ON IN STYLE

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pale grey leather desert boots

H O T L O T

3

DIOR HOMME

black leather desert boots with zips

BURBERRY

olive green canvas backpack with leather trim

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H O T L O T

4

DR. MARTENS

dark brown leather Sawyer boots with orange piping

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DIESEL

black leather desert boots * Metallic reflective coasters all by pt. from Molecule, Orchard Central, #03-07/08

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L O O K

B O O K

photography: samson poon styling: jonathan yee assisted by kim woo hair: kenax leung grooming: karen choi models: michael grundstein / style & hao yun xiang / calcarries

MAKE A DASH EYE-SNAPPING SPORTS BLOUSONS IN NYLON AND SOFT LEATHER ENSURE STYLE MUSCLE THAT EXTENDS PAST GYM HOURS

BOSS BLACK

Orange nylon zip-up jacket

BOSS ORANGE

Black and white knit cardigan

FRANCK MULLER

Conquistador Tourbillon Grand Prix in rose gold and titanium with black alligator leather strap

D&G

Dark grey nylon biker blouson

PRADA

White cotton shirt, silver grey silk tie

BURBERRY PRORSUM Black lightweight skinny trousers, black leather boots

CARTIER

Calibre de Cartier in 18K rose gold with brown leather strap

LOUIS VUITTON

Dark grey cotton mesh zip jacket, dark grey matching short-sleeve shirt, tie-dye silk scarf

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in stainless steel with leather strap * Trilby hat stylist’s own

L O O K

GUCCI

White multi-pocket nylon zip jacket, red Inca motif print sweater, white cotton pants with parachute buckle

BOTTEGA VENETA

Tribal leather necklace

BOSS ORANGE

White leather high-cut sneakers with silver piping

MONTBLANC

TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic in white ceramic with white leather strap

B O O K

L O O K

B O O K

ALFRED DUNHILL

Black cotton evening suit with matching trousers, tangerine silk pocket square

LOUIS VUITTON

Light brown cotton jersey T-shirt

DIOR HOMME leather desert boots DOLCE &Black GABBANA Multi-coloured perforated HERMES

nylon zip Dark jacketbrown leather pochette.

EMPORIO ARMANI

*Beret stylist’s own

Grey lightweight cropped cotton pants

GUCCI

Blue stripe satin tuxedo belt

RUDOLF DASSLER X PUMA High-top sneakers

* Sunglasses stylist’s own

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text: kien koh

SHORT

This season’s versatile day-to-night shorts are tailored, tapered and smart enough for the sharpest dandy

DSQUARED2

HERMES

( ) Add a touch of impish boyishness to your shorts with this fun DSQUARED2 wallet chain

FRED PERRY

TOD’S

(

GIORGIO ARMANI multi-coloured belts MEN’S FOLIO 86

LEVI’S X JEAN PAUL ( ) GAULTIER denim shorts )

(

ETRO coloured straw hats are a sure-fire way to spice up relaxed looks

)

LOUIS VUITTON

DUNHILL

EMPORIO ARMANI

(canvasBURBERRY tote bag )

(

)

ZEGNA SPORT sand beige leather boat shoes

MEN’S FOLIO 87

R U N W A Y

R E P O R T

TOMMY HILFIGER

(

LOUIS VUITTON black and gold aviators

)

PRADA

KENZO FERRAGAMO

(

)(

BURBERRY LONDON’s versatile slim-cut cotton grey blazer provides a formal counterpoint

MEN’S FOLIO 88

EMPORIO ARMANI two-tone leather shoes

)

PLAID ) ( IN FULL

It’s hip to be square.

Veering from coy librarian styles to Kurt Cobainesque intrigue, geometric checks and plaid motifs are perennial crowd pleasers

FRED PERRY ENERGIE

BOSS ORANGE

D&G

( (

ETRO plaid fabric and leather shoes

(

) MEN’S FOLIO 89

BURBERRY LONDON red cotton plaid shirt

)

7 FOR ALL MANKIND’s distressed dark denim jeans lend bad boy attitude to preppy checks

)

R U N W A Y

R E P O R T

( ) Inject punk cool with CK JEWELLERY glint pendant and necklace

DSQUARED2

EMPORIO ARMANI DRIES VAN NOTEN

)

(

ADIDAS O BY O KAZUKI tartan check zipper hooded jacket

MOSCHINO

)

(

LOUIS VUITTON Damier check leather belt

(

)

BOSS GREEN black and grey check high-top sneakers and matching tote bag

BURBERRY LONDON

MEN’S FOLIO 90

ART ( )

R U N W A Y

R E P O R T

The high-fashion cognoscenti borrow liberally from the art tribe for evocative prints and textured patterns

WEAR

GUCCI ISSEY MIYAKE

JIL SANDER

(

) )

JIL SANDER print canvas tote bag with leather straps

(

(

ZEGNA SPORT pink paisley print shorts

)

JEREMY SCOTT X ADIDAS multi-coloured sneakers add a dash of sports inspired eccentricity

MEN’S FOLIO 92

SpidoLite rose gold Skeleton case and dial Svend Andersen movement Blue gold rotor SGD 33,800

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mensfolio april10_fullpage_white line.indd 1

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R U N W A Y

R E P O R T

(

LOUIS VUITTON print silk scarf

)

( ) Wear your neck scarf artfully as exemplified

by HERMES

PRADA

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DKNY white leather belt

GIVENCHY

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ALEXANDER McQUEEN

MEN’S FOLIO 94

)

YSL canvas print tote bag

MFolioSing(Apr10)b.pdf 9/4/2010 11:11:58 AM

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F I R S T P E R S O N text: wong kee soon

BOSS Orange’s new creative director Eyan Allen believes that innovation and identity are key to a bright future for the casualwear label One can’t help but draw comparisons between Eyan Allen, BOSS Orange’s creative director,

and Christopher Bailey, chief creative director of Burberry. Both are 39-year-old Englishmen and graduates of London’s prestigious Royal College of Art. And like Christopher, whose career skyrocketed after he was brought into Buberry’s fold to revitalise the traditional English label, Eyan looks similarly set for the big time with BOSS Orange.

Eyan has been tasked to transform the fortunes of the casualwear label, starting with his first collection this Spring/Summer. The 11-year-old diffusion label has no storied heritage to bank on, save the links with its established main line, Hugo BOSS. While a carte blanche-style rebirth was on the cards, the newly minted BOSS Orange creative director, who has been at the job since end2008, says it is not just about designing a new wardrobe.

“For the new direction to be a success, BOSS Orange needs to break out of the traditional Hugo BOSS mould and find its own identity,” he says. And Eyan’s definition of identity entails a holistic vision of the brand.

Apart from a streamlined collection which showcases Eyan’s knack for incorporating stylish sportswear elements into casualwear – thanks to his background as a sportswear designer for adidas, Nike, Puma, Ellese and New Balance – the designer has reworked the label’s logo and boutique concept. He is also exploring digital communication to connect with customers.

In March, Eyan presided over an online T-shirt design contest where customers can reinterpret the label’s parrot print T-shirt from the Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Giving new meaning to customer involvement, the winning creation will be featured in a future BOSS Orange collection.

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“The fashion world is constantly reinventing itself. To stay ahead of the competition, we need to be on the lookout for fresh inspiration,” he says.

But it is the clothes that Eyan will ultimately be judged on and he has been ticking the right boxes so far. He wants to create “modern daywear for metropolitan dressers” and duly delivers that promise.

Eyan’s debut collection extols a laid-back dressiness with an emphasis on mix-and-match qualities, featuring an amalgamation of denim, jersey and leather pieces. The look is relaxed but refined, with an emphasis on soft tailoring and understatement. It is also an emphatic reminder that the BOSS brand isn’t just about sharp Hugo suits and structured BOSS Black dress shirts.

“I think this is a modern way of dressing,” he says. “What’s great about designing the BOSS Orange collection is that I can take inspiration from fashion and sportswear, I use styling as a key element to my creative vision. For me, it is important to evolve the look of a collection.” o

“When I design, I think like a stylist and put looks together in my head”

PORTRAIT COURTESY OF BOSS ORANGE

– Eyan Allen

F I R S T P E R S O N text: li haohan portrait: jeff chen / calibre pictures location: e’collezione @ mandarin gallery

International architect Paul Tange’s deliberate, meticulous wardrobe-building is an enterprise that is partly sentimental, partly intellectual and wholly professional Paul Tange picks his way through a sombrely suited crowd like a rare bird heralding spring.

He is decked out in a melange of colours that would make better sense in a meadow than in downtown Singapore where he is attending a battery of meetings. He pops by E’Collezione watch boutique at the Mandarin Gallery for this interview. Between takes he inspects the exquisite shop he has designed for his friend as if marvelling at what he is seeing for the first time. The faultless construction of his midnight blue wool jacket is compromised by a jaunty red silk pochette and the white accent stitching that outlines its lapel and breast pocket; some of the jacket’s buttonholes, one finds on closer inspection, are traced in periwinkle and aubergine threads.

His golden brown pleated trousers are cinched high on his waist by a brown Hermes belt with a worked silver buckle, while their cuffs rest lightly on a pair of bespoke Ferragamo saddle oxfords in inky blue calf leather and bright mustard yellow ostrich skin. When he raises his hand to keep his rakishly long hair in place, his jacket momentarily exposes its lining: Blue and pink on the right-hand panel and ochre and fuchsia on the other. From time to time he absently adjusts his tie, a knitted number in buttercup yellow.

Just as Paul learnt the rudiments of his profession from his father, the late great Kenzo Tange, before coming into his own as an architect, he received his first sartorial lessons from him as well. “My father took me to his tailor at Ichiban Kan in Tokyo’s Ginza district when I was about 15 to have a raincoat made,” the 52-year-old scion fondly recalls. Its collar was hand-stitched with a technique that has since become arcane, turning the garment into a veritable collectible. For years Ichiban Kan has attempted to acquire the piece for its archive, but Paul has so far resisted successfully. He continues to return to the same shop, however, now run by second-generation tailor Shing Watanabe with whom he hatches elaborate sartorial projects.

Men of means and propensity for luxury will always demand the best, but few of them will go the lengths that Paul has – from long-drawn search for fabrics to fevered discussion on buttons. The results are now part of the growing Tange-Watanabe sartorial lore of antique obis and aloha shirts ending up as jacket lining and exotic hardwoods as buttons.

Friendships inspire Paul’s imaginative dressing. “I have many friends who are in the design and creative fields – watchmakers, tailors, designers,” Paul admits, “but I find a special connection with watchmakers because we share similar challenges. We work within a defined, often limited space, where we have to put in everything. Watches, like architecture, are ubiquitous; they’re comprehensive and functional.

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With wardrobes filled with bespoke garments – he places it at about 80 per cent of what he wears – globetrotting Paul is expectedly well turnedout wherever he lands. “My wife says that I would probably be a much better architect if I spent less time packing,” he says in jest. In truth, however, he keeps clothes wherever his practice has an office – Vancouver, London, Shanghai, Taipei and Singapore – ensuring that he has something appropriate to wear from a blustery London to a blistering Singapore.

Jackets and ties comprise Paul’s work uniform. “I always put on a jacket and a tie out of respect for my clients and the people I work with,” he declares. “Dressing up well is an extension of what I do. Someone once said that I’m a walking showcase of my practice and I think that was fairly accurate.”

It means, Paul explains, that he, and by extension his company, is progressive, creative, meticulous and thoughtful, that he pays attention to details as much as the general picture. “Architecture is a service industry. Clients give us jobs and dressing up for meetings is a way of acknowledging them. But I don’t dress up for anyone but myself,” he says by way of emphasising the vintage Paul flourishes that distinguishes his style.

Paul’s affinity for colours does not extend literally to his works. “I’m colourful in the sense that I am expressive,” he clarifies. Indeed, in the hands of lesser mortals, Paul’s fearless approach to colour will easily lapse into the ludicrous, but given his trained eye it becomes a great asset. Canary-yellow socks, anyone? o

“Someone said that I’m a walking showcase of my architectural practice and it is fairly accurate” - Paul Tange

F I R S T P E R S O N text: joshua yap portrait: michael tan / mika images

Being born with a silver spoon in one’s mouth does not guarantee instant success. Scion of luxury home entertainment equipment company Atlas Sound & Vision, Michael Tien, remembers the time he was roped in earlier than expected to revive the family business Michael Tien might appear as someone who’s set for life. After all, the 45-year-old is the CEO of

Atlas Sound & Vision – the premium audio and visual equipment empire that his late father AB Tien founded in 1962. However, behind his cheery demeanour and seemingly privileged life lies a tale of grit and tenacity.

Reclining on a plush sofa in a living room installation at his sprawling Windstedt Road showroom, Michael recalls a time when things weren’t so rosy. Twenty-five years ago, the company was badly hit by one of the worst recessions in Singapore. As a result of heavy losses in its real estate investments, Atlas had gone into voluntary liquidation and the family was literally left with nothing but the clothes on their backs. But a silver lining came in the form of Michael’s education insurance payout that was used to resurrect the business in place of his academic pursuit.

“It was never intended or necessary for me to join the family business,” he shares. “I was 21, just completed my National Service and had to forgo my studies in the United States as I was roped in to help rebuild the business from scratch.”

Nonetheless, Michael never regretted the decision because what his peers were learning from lectures and books, he got to learn in real life. And it has paid off well. Under Michael’s charge, Atlas has doubled its turnover every five years, growing at a consistent rate of 20 per cent each year.

Michael says it was achieved through prudent decisions in its capital spending and investments, having learnt the consequences of myopic business decisions the hard way.

“Instead of a formal education, I went through the school of hard knocks,” he jests. “I may not have been able to get a degree but I read a lot and apply what I read. If I have the chance to start all over again, I’d probably choose the same route.”

SHREWD ENTERPRISE

The lessons Michael learnt in his early years in the business not only armed him with a resilience that will see him through various financial crises but also prepped him to take on its leadership position when his father passed away in 2003. Michael subsequently instituted a series of changes that transformed Atlas from a family business to an enterprise. Systems and processes were installed to conform to ISO certification standards, and finance and human resource departments were set up. More importantly, he created the Atlas customercentric engagement (AC 2ES) programme that has become somewhat of a legend in the local hi-fi retail industry.

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“The whole idea behind AC2ES was to engage our customers on a personal level,” explains Michael.

“We set ourselves apart from the typical hi-fi store by providing lifestyle solutions. This is done by first understanding the needs of the customers before presenting them with recommendations. We go through the benefits of our suggestions rather than a list of features like others do. Then we will let them experience the products with a live demonstration.

This worked so well that Bose flew its team down to observe us and understand why our sales record for its products rated as one of its highest globally despite our relatively small market.”

Even though Michael has been winning business accolades, including the Rotary-ASME top entrepreneur of the year award, and currently holds the sole distributorship of high-end brands like Bose, Ad Notam and Loewe in Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, with five showrooms in the region, he is not showing any signs of letting up. In fact, he is preparing to roll out the second phase of the AC2ES programme to meet changing market conditions while working towards an MBA. At press time, he is putting the finishing touches on his latest showroom at TripleOne Somerset.

“One thing I’ve learnt from past recessions is how easily a company can become redundant if it does not embrace change,” he says. “The world is moving so fast and the only way you can stay in the game is to effect change actively and plan for the long run so you will not become obsolete.” o

“Who I am today is the result of everything that I went through in the past. I wouldn’t have it any other way.”

– Michael Tien, CEO of Atlas Sound & Vision

E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

P E O P L E

portrait: ivanho harlim & shysilia novita

TURNING THE PAGE For his final Extraordinary People piece, Woon Tai Ho meets up with Tan Swie Hian, who recalls a life-changing moment that set him on the path to literary greatness

Tan Swie Hian jokingly refers to himself as a ‘yogi’. He is often in

slippers, shorts and a short-sleeve shirt even in posh restaurants. But the owners of these restaurants let the multi-disciplinary artist be – wellaware not only of his reputation as a foodie, but also of his standing in the international arts community.

It is difficult to discern Swie Hian from appearance alone. He lives in Geylang, where covert secret societies abound and the world’s oldest profession thrives in the alleyways. But like Geylang, which also houses temples and vibrant gastronomic enclaves, Swie Hian’s demeanour can be misleading.

After publishing his first poetry collection, The Giant, in 1968, Swie Hian went on to write over 50 books of poems, short stories and essays, as well as the first translation of works by Henri Michaux, T.S. Eliot, Samuel Beckett and Marin Sorescu. A self-taught artist, he belies his unadorned air with cutting-edge paintings and sculptures, working with anything from oil and Chinese ink to cement.

A sampling of Swie Hian’s official accolades will stun even accomplished artists. In 1979, he earned a French Knighthood of the Order of the Arts and Letters. He would later cement his association with the French when, at age 44 in 1987, he became the youngest person to be conferred Correspondent of the Institute of France; joining Henry Moore, Salvador Dali, I.M. Pei and Kenzo Tange as an inductee of the world’s oldest art institution. The same year, Swie Hian was awarded Singapore’s Cultural Medallion, the country’s top artistic award.

Now in his mid 60s, Swie Hian looks back at his early life with amusement. Born in Indonesia and schooled in Singapore, he remembers skipping classes and getting into gang fights. He admitted to being hopeless in mathematics and science, and was on the verge of dropping out. On one occasion, he had his 100-mark score for a mathematics test reduced to zero when the teacher found out his answers were identical to the student’s sitting next to him. Suffice to say, his parents were disappointed.

Then something happened during composition class one afternoon. Other students had finished their assignments and promptly left the classroom. Swie Hian, feeling particularly inspired, could not finish his work on time. Finally, it was just him and his teacher in the classroom.

The teacher approached him and he feared the worst.

“You can continue,” the teacher said, “I’ll wait for you to finish.” He had been impressed by Swie Hian’s previous submissions.

The comment lifted Swie Hian’s spirits. Moved by his teacher’s belief that he had something worthwhile to express, he wrote on. As a repeat student, Swie Hian suddenly felt the pang of regret. He thought of his envy for the good students – the ones that did not get into trouble – and wondered why he had sunk so low. He knew he was traumatised by the rigidity of formal education and that it was easier having fun than memorising textbooks. But he also knew then that he had wasted precious time and the good intentions showed by his parents and now, this teacher.

When he finished the composition and walked out of the classroom, he felt affirmed that at least one person recognised his writing talent. He vowed that things were going to be different. Not only would he excel in class, he was determined to be the best. At the end of the term, Swie Hian topped his class in literature and English. Despite his weakness in the other subjects, the teacher spoke up for him, and Swie Hian was allowed to pursue literature and the arts. The rest, as we know, is history.

In 1968, he graduated with a degree in modern languages and literature from Nanyang University.

During a chance meeting years later, the teacher told Swie Hian that he had written an article about that day he wrote his composition for a Chinese magazine. “I knew you would be someone great some day and I was right,” the teacher said. “But what you write these days is simply beyond me. Perhaps it is too deep and I don’t really understand it. So you are the teacher now.”o

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photography: jeff chen / calibre pictures text: kien koh styling: weilun assisted by shahida taha & kherray loh grooming: may tay & angel gwee hair: leodric from jeric hair salon models: dainius & justus / mannequin, natalia / ave location courtesy of scarlet hotel, 33a erskine road

Dainius:

GUCCI White cotton honeycomb half voile-lined palma jacket, cobalt printed satin shirt, ink and cobalt silk knit tie TOM FORD Black acetate optical frames PRADA Grey canvas and ostrich leather tote bag

WINNING

STREAK The stakes are high; dress the part

Justus:

BURBERRY Dark navy cotton voile twobutton jacket, dark navy cotton crew neck bondage strap jumper DOLCE & GABBANA Embellished black silk scarf Natalia:

HERMES Navy viscose jersey crepe one-piece jumpsuit, white water-repellent double-face jersey shawl collar jacket, Torsade silver bracelet, Debridee silver necklace KENZO Cobalt leather belt

Natalia:

CHRISTIAN DIOR Silver draped dress with sequins, retro-glam necklace with gunmetal and Swarovski rhinestones ROGER DUBUIS Ladies Easy Diver in rose gold with white alligator strap Justus:

DOLCE & GABBANA White cotton shirt with black trim D&G Black and white twill pattern vest ZZEGNA Navy cotton tail jacket LANVIN Geometric print silk pocket square, lilac flower pin brooch ROGER DUBUIS Easy Diver in rose gold with black rubber strap

Natalia:

CHRISTIAN DIOR Silver draped dress with sequins, retroglam necklace with gunmetal and Swarovski rhinestones

Dainius:

DOLCE & GABBANA Midnight blue striped silk shirt, black cotton sequined pants, black and white embroidered bow tie D&G Red velvet jacket with black silk lapel CK JEWELRY CKJ print stainless steel bangle, stainless steel strong ring TOM FORD Black acetate optical frames

On Dainius:

BURBERRY PRORSUM Chalk pink cotton ribbon striped shirt GIORGIO ARMANI Grey cotton jacket DOLCE & GABBANA Grey hat with band LANVIN Blue flower pin brooch PAUL SMITH Grey silk polka dot tie HUGO BOSS Black acetate optical frames

Justus:

DIOR HOMME Light beige linen shirt DOLCE & GABBANA Black jacquard jacket with satin-trim lapel BALLY Black leather double buckle monk strap shoe PAUL SMITH Cream printed silk scarf PIMABS Black and grey cotton striped pants GUCCI Black acetate aviators

Dainius:

ZZEGNA Grey cotton striped jacket, black nylon two-pleat pants PIMABS White cotton slim collar shirt ALEXANDER McQUEEN Amber tortoise shell acetate optical frames

Justus:

PRADA Dark grey cotton jacket HUGO Black cotton mandarin collar shirt DOLCE & GABBANA Black silk scarf with sequined patch

Dainius:

BURBERRY PRORSUM Grey cotton slim lapel jacket with matching pants GIORGIO ARMANI Grey and mustard cotton striped shirt Natalia:

GUCCI Black viscose crepe gown with crystal detail and horse bit LOUIS VUITTON Gold chain and locket DOLCE & GABBANA Black and gold embellished bracelet

PIMABS White cotton vest LANVIN Chocolate brown cotton pocket square with sequins HD3 Raptor tourbillon in white gold with black leather strap

Dainius:

PIMABS White cotton shirt with slim lapel D&G Black silk printed vest BURBERRY PRORSUM Navy nylon slim cut pants PRADA Black and white jacquard lace-ups ALEXANDER McQUEEN Amber tortise shell optical frames

Justus:

DIOR HOMME Light beige linen shirt PRADA Light grey poplin compact cut pressed sleeveless shirt PIMABS Black and grey cotton striped pants

Justus:

PRADA Grey cotton slim-cut jacket with matching pants, black cotton mesh sleeveless knitwear BURBERRY PRORSUM Beige cotton bondage strap jumper ZZEGNA Dark navy slip-on shoes YVES SAINT LAURENT Black acetate optical frames ALFRED DUNHILL Two-tone straw hat

Natalia:

BURBERRY PRORSUM Silver sequined jacket, pale chalk grey duchess satin double reef knot skirt, honey enzyme washed gabardine back reef knot trench, pale rock trench faceted bangle, twisted trench leather band platform sandal BALLY Python skin leather belt

Dainius:

LOUIS VUITTON Wool and mohair dress suit, lurex jacquard silk scarf, three-coloured suede calfskin oxford shoe DOLCE & GABBANA Baby blue silk polka dot bow tie *Poker cards set, all by Prada.

Casino poker cards and chips box set, all by Philippi from Molecule, #02-33A, Great World City, 1 Kim Seng Promenade

FLEX ABILITY Shed the sleeves for a sizzling summertime statement photography: jeff chen / calibre pics stylist: weilun grooming: may tay hair: alicia from mosche hair salon model: derik / mannequin

JIL SANDER White fine stretch cotton tank top DIOR HOMME Black cotton pants, black leather desert boots with zips PAUL SMITH Olive green floral print silk scarf LANVIN Mirror necklace THOMAS SABO Sterling silver chain necklace and bracelet

PRADA Grey mesh sleeveless top, grey slim cotton pants DIOR HOMME Black cotton vest LOUIS VUITTON Black Cabas Zippe Taiga leather tote bag

BURBERRY PRORSUM Beige cotton tank top with straps Z ZEGNA White cotton pants, white and grey bi-coloured boots CALVIN KLEIN White lightweight sheer jacket

D&G White cotton tank top DSQUARED2 Black soft leather biker jacket *A.P.C New Standard raw denim jeans CK JEWELLERY Black gloss ring, stainless steel billet bracelet *COSMIC WONDER Crystal pendant necklace *A.P.C and Cosmic Wonder are available at Front Row, #02-08/09, Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Road

JIL SANDER Foujita print stretch cotton tank top, lightgrey cotton pants THOMAS SABO Sterling silver motorcycle wheel pendant, sterling silver dog tag with necklace, sterling silver chain necklace, sterling silver chain bracelet

GUCCI Dark-grey cotton tank top, black leather high-cut shoes with nylon straps *EVISU Grey slim-cut denim jeans THOMAS SABO Sterling silver chain bracelet *Evisu is available at Bread & Butter, Mandarin Gallery, #01-10, 333 Orchard Road

DIESEL Maroon wrinkled leather sleeveless jacket BOSS ORANGE Blue washed denim jeans TOM FORD Silver frame aviator shades *GILES AND BROTHER Hook and toggle necklace *Giles and Brother is available at White Room, 37 Haji Lane

LOUIS VUITTON Burlywood cotton silk suit, colour stained jersey T-shirt, charcoal grey silk scarf, sequinned richelieu shoes *NIXON Straw hat

photography: jeff chen / calibre pics stylist: kien koh assisted by weilun grooming: may tay hair: christine / jeric salon ion Model: bernardo / ave location courtesy of *scape skate park

URBAN

EXCHANGE Louis Vuitton decks out in electric hues, high-tech materials and aerodynamic silhouettes

LOUIS VUITTON Off-white nylon racing bomber jacket, taxi yellow ribbed sweater, cream cloque denim shorts, beige calf suede derby sneakers

LOUIS VUITTON Black wool mohair evening suit with matching trousers, butterfly print cotton poplin shirt, two-tone calf suede derby shoes, black acetate sunglasses

LOUIS VUITTON Taxi yellow denim jacket with matching shorts, two-tone calf suede derby shoes

LOUIS VUITTON Liberty print nylon trench coat, navy lurex cardigan

LOUIS VUITTON Black nylon rider hood, Tambour watch in blackened steel and rubber strap

LOUIS VUITTON Black calfskin nylon and cotton blazer, navy wrinkled silk twill shirt, black nylon shorts, black leather sandals, taiga leather suitcase

* NIXON is available at Billabong, #01-02/03/04, The Heeren Shops * Rock-climbing accessories all available at CAMPER'S CORNER OUTDOOR OUTFITTERS, 11 Stamford Road, #01-13, Capitol Building

LAND

MINE Taiwanese star Ethan Yuan gets close to nature and brandishes his brand of machismo in Boss Orange’s rugged casualwear photography: wen hua stylist: anson shum

Beige stripe knit cardigan, washed denim shorts, grey leather, canvas shoes

Denim shirt, denim tie and denim jeans

Denim jacket, pink cotton T-shirt, plaid cotton shirt, washed denim jeans

White cotton shirt, denim overalls , grey leather, canvas shoes

I N S I G H T

IS MENSWEAR READY FOR ANOTHER JOLT OF FLAMBOYANCE? TRACING THE LINK BETWEEN THE PEACOCK REVOLUTION THAT BEGAN IN THE 1960S AND THIS SEASON’S SPRING OFFERINGS, BLUE CARREON CERTAINLY THINKS SO

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I N S I G H T

In the stylish

television show Mad Men, the characters descend from the Long Island Rail Road train into Manhattan dressed impeccably in tailored suits and starched white shirts, topped off with classy fedoras and sombre briefcases. Very impressive. Collectively, though, they look like a soul-less battalion as one man blends seamlessly into the next in a sea of grey.

Mad Men is set in the 1960s, a decade where propriety was limited in fashion, as evinced from the patriarchal attitudes of the men then. However, towards the end of this handsome uniformity, or shall we say monotony, emerged a livelier and decorated form of dressing. Perhaps as a reaction to the stiff suits of the early 1960s, the late 1960s and early 1970s saw men’s fashion swinging emphatically to an elaborate and colourful beat. Fashion watchers referred to it as the Peacock Revolution – so called because of the fancy plumage of its namesake avian.

As grey tones transitioned to brighter and more vibrant colours, it felt as if some kind of fashion liberation was in place. In fact, one finds it easy to join the dots between the Peacock Revolution and the recent Metrosexual phenomenon.

The Peacock Revolution challenged and questioned the male archetype. Valerie Steele, renowned fashion historian and curator of the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York wrote: “With the rise of the youth culture in the 1960s, old ideas about elegance and appropriate attire were increasingly discarded by men. The so-called Peacock Revolution transformed men’s clothing, ushering in a period of radically new male fashions. Men’s fashions even emphasised sexual display – tight trousers, open shirts, colour and jewellery.”

So the emperor had new clothes, but it also posed the question: If clothes are supposed to make the man, then what is a man who favours a fancy way of dressing?

The answer is simple: Man can be beautiful. The poster child for the Peacock-era was ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev who, with his plunging V-neck shirts, thigh-high boots and fisherman hats, breathed new life to dusty men’s attire. Fashion historians have referred to his look as a “glamorous crisis of masculinity”. And his influence surfaces every couple of seasons as it does with the current Spring 2010 menswear collections.

The colours at Gucci – cobalt blue, fire engine red and butter yellow – as well as geometric prints carry the spirit of the Peacock Revolution to contemporary fashion. A pair of shiny trousers with a folkloric print paired with a ribbed cardigan and a blue shirt accessorised with an effete scarf suggests a nod to the decorated male. Another look from the collection, a red polka-dot iridescent suit worn with a matching red V-neck sweater is an obvious homage to the men of the 1960s who pushed the menswear envelope past preconceived boundaries and limits. Imagine wearing it to a black-tie benefit gala. Oh, the heads you’ll turn.

Gucci has been flying the flag for loud-and-proud men’s high-fashion since creative director Frida Giannini took over the department in 2006. After referencing New Wave pop music last season, she returns with a zesty sportswear-inspired collection this spring

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Fashion bloggers like The Sartorialist’s Yvan Rodic shows how the man-on-the-street exercises flamboyance without looking like a Mad Max cast off

Waving the middle finger at conformity, Prada wants to free men from the shackles of the ubiquitous grey suit with sexy mesh and perforated tops

But this doesn’t mean that such looks are plain wacky or non-wearable. Au contraire. If one scans street-style blogs like The Sartorialist or JakandJil, one finds examples of men parading stand-out pieces without sacrificing sartorial sanity. It is just that they do not conform to oldfashioned concepts of a masculine wardrobe. They are men who favour purple loafers over classic black brogues, young guys who are making the ascot chic once again, and lads who can pull off a bow tie and leather motorcycle jacket combo. Brad Pitt’s character in The Fight Club who rocks bold prints and loud colours with aplomb is a case in point. Here was a man’s man – strong, muscular and brute – who was not afraid to wear motifs and colours that were previously the domain of the fairer sex.

Miuccia Prada’s spring collection is the anti-grey suit. Her show notes read: “Men are stuck with grey suits.” In response, she rolled out suits in mesh and perforated fabrics, cutting them in looser, blouse-like shapes but keeping to shades of grey and pewter. Less outlandish but attentiongrabbing nonetheless, what man would not command attention in a mesh sleeveless cardigan?

Likewise, beyond the obvious sportswear influence at Louis Vuitton are expressions of male vanity in the forms of butterfly wing prints and layering of colours. A blinding combination of a bright orange trench coat and a sunflower yellow shirt suggests a man who dares to dress joyously.

Even at Alfred Dunhill, a brand rooted in classic tailoring, one sees hints of affectations in the tilt of a fedora or a carefully knotted scarf worn over a sweater. And who would don the purple blazer or the mottled eggplant-coloured suit at Ermenegildo Zegna except someone who is man enough to express himself? If you agree, then rejoice, as this is your season. o

Ermenegildo Zegna

It is not just about flashy colours or off-kilter volume play. While rooted in classic tailoring Alfred Dunhill shows that one’s outfit can be augmented with well-placed accessories

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E S S E N T I A L S text: wong kee soon

CHOPPER COOL

THOMAS SABO’s motorcycling-inspired sterling silver pendant charms avid bikers with tyre thread and wheel details. The German marque pimps this ‘spare tyre’ with its Rebel At Heart collection’s signature flamboyance, sporting a lily cross on a hubcap accented by ball bearings.

Available at THOMAS SABO Raffles City Shopping Centre #01-31 ION Orchard #B1-26

LOVE TOKEN

PIAGET’s iconic Possession ring that symbolises romance with two rings rotating around each other has been updated with a chain band in celebration of the collection’s 20th anniversary.

Available at PIAGET Ngee Ann City #01-11

FAST WRITE

CARTIER parades a sleeker and shinier silhouette for its latest Roadster writing instruments.

Each pen features engravings inspired by racing and vintage cars, like a radiator grille-like pen cap and wheel spokes motif, on its rhodium-plated 18k gold nib.

Crowning its dashing form is a blue sapphire-coloured resin cabochon. It is available as a rollerball, ball point or fountain pen in two-tone or metal.

Available at CARTIER ION Orchard #01-20 Ngee Ann City #01-33

STEER CLEAR

PORSCHE DESIGN’s industrial-style stainless steel cufflinks with onyx inlay mimic a nut and a bolt, featuring a hexagonal centre flanked by circular grooves on its well-finished body. Also available in black titanium with onyx inlay and stainless steel with titanium inlay.

Available at PORSCHE DESIGN ION Orchard #01-08

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E S S E N T I A L S

CITY MAN

BOSS BLACK’s navy blue calf leather form-shifting weekend bag complements the label’s relaxed urban uniform with adjustable handles that allow one to carry it like a briefcase or sling it over the shoulder.

Available at HUGO Ngee Ann City #01-13/18

WORK IT OUT

DIOR HOMME’s black lambskin leather bag is a stylish alternative to the duffel bag. Like a biker’s jacket, its smooth, dark leather is accented by shiny metallic zippers on its exterior pockets. Also available in white.

Available at DIOR HOMME ION Orchard #01-22

MEMORABLE MOULD

RENOMA’s nostalgic soft leather coin pouch and passport holder are crafted from leather with a fabric-like woven pattern that looks gracefully aged, topped with a striped gun metal double-r logo.

WORK WARRIOR

Sharpen corporate style with BRAUN BUFFEL’s Schnitt soft leather briefcase. Stylish and functional, its interior is fitted with useful compartments while a detachable leather strap allows you to sling-carry it.

Available at select department stores

Available at select department stores

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BUCK THE TREND

HERMES reinvents the common belt buckle with a silver hook-clip. This subtle addition helps the wearer remove the belt without distressing the leather.

Available at HERMES Liat Towers #01-02A Ngee Ann City #02-02

FLUTTER FLAIR

LOUIS VUITTON’s black or grey panama straw hats are whimsical nods to New York City’s bike messengers.

Studio director Paul Helbers calls them “gentlemen butterflies” and duly plays tribute with an eye-catching butterfly pin that sits rakishly above the hatband.

Available at LOUIS VUITTON ION Orchard #01-23 Ngee Ann City #01-20

SPOT KICK

TOMMY HILFIGER kicks off World Cup-fashion with limited edition polo shirts of 10 participating countries including Spain, Brazil and Argentina. Each polo shirt comes in its respective country’s team jersey colours and features a national flag sewn over the label’s vintage icon on the right while the left sports another old-school Hilfiger crest. The embroidered number 85 on the right sleeve indicates the American label’s founding year.

BACK BOOST

BURBERRY’s canvas backpack makes an ideal companion for a short getaway.

Available in black or sandy brown, the distressed fabric ensures comfort on one’s shoulders, easily accommodating a load of overnight clothes and a laptop. Its luxe factor is discreet, highlighted by durable leather trims on its handle and strap.

Available at BURBERRY ION Orchard #02-16 Ngee Ann City #01-28

Available at TOMMY HILFIGER Raffles City Shopping Centre #01-38/39

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STREET SMART

BALLY’s Elton Euler low-cut kicks channel 1980s hip-hop inspiration with its shoelacesand-Velcro strap upper. Still classy, nonetheless, the shoes are decorated with brogue detailing like the label’s famous leather wingtips.

Available at BALLY ION Orchard #01-12

CANVAS CASUAL

FRED PERRY’s colourful plimsoll gets the summer vibe going with playful dual-toned stripes on the rubber outsoles that complement the sprightly hues of the canvas.

Available at FRED PERRY ION Orchard #B3-01

AGENT ORANGE

High-street fashion gets a high-fashion nod with EMPORIO ARMANI’s orange high-top sneakers. Perforated details punctuate its calfskin leather body, highlighted by an eagle motif at the ankle.

Available at EMPORIO ARMANI Mandarin Gallery #01-12/13

SUAVE SETTINGS

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO adds quirk to class with suede and patent leather elements on its leather shoes’ toe caps, heel counters and uppers. Big on details, each pair comes with dual-tone soles, asymmetrical stitching and engraved logos on uppermost eyelets.

Available at SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ION Orchard #01-10 Paragon Shopping Centre #01-04/05

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V A N I T Y text: seraphina woon

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THIRD BASE

SK-II third Boutique Spa at TripleOne Somerset is a revitalising cocoon from city stress

With new spa facilities mushrooming all over town, spa goers might have a problem sifting wheat from chaff. If one is unsure, bet on pedigree. And Japanese mega-skincare brand, SK-II, is a no-brainer for a perkme-up in the city. It has just launched its latest Boutique Spa at TripleOne Somerset.

Known for its high-performance products, facials here that use SK-II’s formidable range of cleansers and toners are a top draw. Highly recommended are the Aura Lucency facial using premium SK-II Cellumination masks and skin boosters to treat dull and unevenly toned skin, and the aromatherapy-based Cloud 9 facial. Both come with neck massages.

Opened in February, the new outlet is lavish, spanning 1,800 sq ft with a duplex storefront. The spa is designed to evoke the feel of a luxurious home. Upon entering the spa, guests are ushered into the living room-style lounge area for consultation and to browse through the spa menu. First-time guests are required to do a quick facial analysis to determine suitable treatments for their skin type. At the two lounges, guests can spend a languid afternoon reading magazines, surfing the internet or sipping tea before or after treatments.

There are also seven treatment suites, an SK-II retail bar, a skin counselling room and two powder rooms. On top of that, each room is equipped with SK-II’s renowned Senzational Bed known for its comfort.

The spa’s central location is another compelling reason to visit. The TripleOne Somerset branch follows the mantra of convenience as emphasised by its outlets in Scotts Road and Raffles City, opened in 2004 and 2007, respectively. Great for frazzled office-types, it is another option in which to hooky when the going gets tough.o Boutique Spa #01-16 TripleOne Somerset Tel: 6733 1765

OTHER FACIAL PRODUCT BRAND SPAS IN THE HEART OF TOWN Jurlique Day Spa

#04-02 Wheelock Place, Tel: 6735 7177 Managed by premium skincare brand, Jurlique, the Day Spa uses customised herbal blends to restore the skin’s natural balance. The spa has five treatment rooms and offers a range of therapies including facials, body exfoliation, body wraps and massages.

Institut Clarins

#05-05 Wheelock Place, Tel: 6838 5060 Opened here in 1996, Institute Clarins is the spa division of the French skincare brand known for its botanical-based facial products. Offering a wide range of facials for men, popular treatments include Truly Matte facial that helps prevent acne breakouts and the Shaping Lift facial that firms the skin.

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V A N I T Y text: wong kee soon

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MANE EVENT

Lose the Brylcreem and sculpt the tresses with versatile wax, gels and pastes

L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL Play Ball Extreme Honey

The successful Tecni.Art Play Ball paste now has a gel spin-off that is as fun-looking as it is useful. The nectar-textured gel is contained in a bullet-like rubber tube dispenser. Perfect for short to medium length crops, it is fuss-free with fast-drying hold and shine ($32).

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL OSiS Rough Up

Schwarzkopf allows creative freedom and easy definition on short crops, thanks to the OSiS Rough Up modelling clay. Made with volcanic sand, it lets one restyle the hair through the day without reapplication. Despite the clay’s colour, it actually accords a healthy, natural shine that even Robert Pattinson would be proud of ($37).

SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL Microweb Fiber

Those with thick and coarse hair often apply more styling products than necessary. Microweb Fiber spins a silky spider web-like texture for styling fuller or damaged hair in just the right amount. The citrusscented web creates an instant strong hold that works on any hair length. Massage into the roots for added volume. Meanwhile, the palm-size, travel-friendly canister supports quick-fixes for bad hair days ($48).

REDKEN FOR MEN Mint Shape Forming Paste

Fans of Redken’s cooling, mint-infused line of shampoo, conditioner and gel can add this advanced forming paste to their grooming kit.

Developed with gym rats in mind, its refreshing peppermint and citrus scent provides an energising boost after a long workout. Plus, its medium hold leaves hair soft and natural without feeling sticky or greasy – applicable on even towel-dried hair ($36).

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C O V E T text: kien koh

GREY MATTER

Whether pale ash or dark cement, cool and collected grey is the new black this summer

GUCCI Grey embossed leather bag

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EMPORIO ARMANI Grey cotton newsboy cap

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C O V E T

BALLY Presebe high-top canvas sneaker with opal grey leather trim

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DIOR HOMME Grey leather wallet

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C O V E T

LOUIS VUITTON Grey leather belts

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D E T O U R

text & photography: nick hall

R-RATED

THE NEW NISSAN GT-R ELICITS WANTON PLEASURESEEKING WITH A GREATER LUST FOR SPEED THAN PORSCHE’S 911 TURBO AT HALF THE PRICE

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Torque:

434lb/ft

Power:

473bhp

Top Speed:

311kph

0 – 100kph:

3.5 seconds

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F O R M text: li haohan

SPACE AGE

MEETS NEW AGE

From a distance, the Rolex Learning Center looks like the Mother Ship marooned on Earth waiting to refuel. It is a gleaming white structure with four definable edges and gaping holes all over. In a neighbourhood of traditional buildings set on a grid, it is remarkably out of place in both size and appearance. From the front elevation, however, it looks like a series of modern buildings connected by sloping ramps so that although it does not remotely resemble anything, it is a benign – even a welcome – presence. The building is open and accessible on all sides.

Located at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL) campus, the CHF110-million project was put up for tender in 2004, constructed between 2007 and 2009, and launched in February this year. The exciting development is quite unlike any in the area, but on closer inspection its graceful contours and playful unevenness actually mimics the undulating topography of the environment. And if one were to extend the metaphor, one could liken the holes that randomly break up the structure to lakes. Architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of SANAA practice were in fact influenced by the surroundings. “After we had the final shape, we used stairs and ramps from Lausanne and the Swiss landscape as precedents to learn how the gentle slopes could be used and enjoyed,” the architects share.

Artificial geography, rather than actual enclosures, defines space at Rolex Learning Center, which comprises a library, multi-purpose hall, cafe, restaurant and offices. This absence of physical boundaries between areas within the building reflects the seamless nature of human knowledge for which it is a shrine. Originally conceived as a vertical structure in which various functional areas are stacked on top of each other, Kazuyo and Ryue later decided on a single floor, single-room plan instead. “We arrived at what we thought was the most appropriate shape by studying the required programme and the relationship between individual parts. We asked ourselves: “What kind of a space can a lot of people, doing different activities at the same time enjoy being in?” The answer is a cavernous 88,000-sqm space, with meandering slopes that rise into walls and plateaus, with gaping fenestrations that look out to courtyards or to the distant horizon, with node-like slopes that connect one area to another. It is organic, playful, open and intuitive.

Out of the uneven surface, the architects created barriers and cues for different domains, effectively demarcating areas into activity hubs. On the crest of a slope sits a restaurant with views of the Alps and Lake Geneva, while on another platform a clutch of boulder-like stools is arrayed before the glass walls. Depressions and valleys become enclosures for quiet rooms and intimate study areas.

A large expanse is reserved for the library with its staggering collection of 500,000 printed works – one of the largest scientific collections in Europe – four large study areas that can accommodate 860 students and offices for 100 EPFL and other employees.

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Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa’s design for the Rolex Learning Center in Switzerland propels architecture to a distant galaxy while retaining a spirit of calm that is hauntingly familiar The Rolex Learning Center within the EPFL campus

A system of ramps connects various parts of the buildings

The building is also home to an amphitheatre, the Rolex Forum, where lectures, performances, conferences and other large-scale events can be held. With space for 600 people, the amphitheatre is served by a range of catering outlets.

Not all facilities and attractions are oriented inward. Kazuyo and Ryue worked out five external patios along with intimate courtyards with informal seating. They also effected a constant exchange between the inside and the outside. “This building has both architectural and topographical qualities so the experiences are diverse. The act of entering or exiting a room or studying at a desk might be an architectural experience but to crisscross a slope, or to climb it with the funicular-like inclined elevator might be an experience closer to being on a hill outdoors. Also, the topography created by the architecture will induce architectural experiences that have not been felt in traditional buildings,” the design partners expound.

From the interior, a glass facade with anodised aluminium fascia and a sun protection box provide ample views of the breathtaking exterior. A louvred sun protecter, meanwhile, ensures that sunlight can be tempered. Some of the meeting rooms and offices are enclosed with curved and flat glass walls that eliminate visual restraints. Covered walkways and gentle slopes offer access to different areas, so does the innovative inclined elevator or ‘horizontal lift’.

The activity hubs are furnished with pieces that encompass contemporary and modern classics such as the SANAA flower chair, Vitra office furniture, and Fritz Hansen tables and chairs among others.

The Swiss government and major Swiss businesses financed the project. Rolex, which has a long-standing relationship with EPFL in material science research and micro technology for watch design, is among them. The project, therefore, has manifold significance. It is a leading repository of information and knowledge, a centre for learning as well as a fine result of collaboration between the government and private sectors. Kazuyo and Ryue, however, hope it becomes an inspiration to its users. “The building is not traditional but new, so we hope that the people will use it in a new and original way.” o

The large one-room space undulates up and down in an impression of Lausanne's own topography

PICTURES COURTESY OF ROLEX

Architects Ryue Nishizawa and Kazuyo Sejima

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VERDANT HAVEN

text: joshua yap

John Erdos has literally moved to greener pastures with a new lifestyle enclave on Dempsey Hill

A meandering timber boardwalk invites you to take a leisurely stroll around the compound and discover the various facets of the enclave

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181876

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Rustic exposed beams, raw concrete floor and lush greenery provide the ideal setting for John Erdos’ brand of teak furniture

Reminiscent of the focal point in its former showroom, a pond of flowing water enhances the restful ambience of John Erdos Home

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Luxuriant rainforest all around allows you to dine in the tranquillity of nature

PICTURES COURTESY OF JOHN ERDOS HOME

Attracting art aficionados since its opening last November, John Erdos Art is a dedicated gallery for local and international artists

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I N S T R U M E N T S text: alvin wong

TWO-PART HARMONY

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’S CENTENNIAL LIMITED EDITION TIMEPIECE BY GIRARD-PERREGUAX IS A STATEMENT OF QUALITY AND DISTINCTION

BY TWO LUXURY-OBSESSED HEAVYWEIGHTS

Throughout Ermenegildo

Zegna’s 100-year history, the Italian label has been as fiercely independent as they come. But it also understands what it’s like to work with the best. Consider its made-tomeasure Centennial Vellus Aureum suit, issued for this year’s centenary celebration. The family-run company culled fleeces from award-winning growers for just 85m of top-notch merino wool devoted to the suit. For some, it will be the lightest and finest suit money cannot buy.

When Zegna decided to complete the look with a timepiece, it naturally gravitated to a collaborator that is just as storied and esteemed.

Swiss brand Girard-Perregaux (GP), like Zegna, is a family-run operation that prides itself on quality products made entirely in-house. That the 219-year-old GP is also helmed by Italian, Gino Macaluso, seems almost serendipitous.

“Gildo Zegna (CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna) is a close friend,” says Gino, GP’s CEO. “Having a 100-year-old business is a significant milestone and it was a pleasure for me to be a part of it.”

“My great-grandfather Angelo Zegna was in the watch business before textiles,” adds Gildo. “We felt that a centennial watch would be significant.”

Like an impeccably sewn Zegna jacket, the centennial watch is austere, elegant and demands close inspection. Fans of GP will find the design familiar – the round case and refined dial echoing the aesthetics of its 1966 line. However, the watch’s functions comprising a smallseconds counter and annual calendar display with a sub-dial and arched window – the result of slight modifications on GP’s automatic 3300 movement – is unique to Zegna.

With its name stamped on the dial of a GP timepiece, Zegna joins Alfred Dunhill, Louis Vuitton and Polo Ralph Lauren as a fashion label that has forged links with a specialist watch manufacturer. Unlike its peers, which are eyeing a slice of the luxury watch market, Zegna is doing it for pure vanity. This means only timepieces that measure up to the strict codes of both Zegna and GP will be allowed out of the latter’s Le Chaux-de-Fonds factory. It also means that there won’t be plenty of them to go around – only 100 pieces, to be exact – but we think it may be a slightly easier buy than the Centennial Vellus Aureum suit.

GINO MACALUSO DISCUSSES FASHION AND ZEGNA’S CENTENNIAL WATCH Creative Control “Zegna doesn’t do watches. If it wants a wellmade timepiece, it has to work with another watchmaking house. That might involve licensing agreements and possibly the loss of some creative control. I told Gildo about the pitfalls and when we agreed on the project, it was more like a friend helping another friend.”

Less Is More “It was a very simple project. We did some modifications on the movement – simplified it, actually – and kept the dial clean. We wanted something classic that expresses quality and heritage.”

Staying Rooted “Change is a constant in fashion. There is always the need to come up with something new each season. But for Ermenegildo Zegna, I respect the way the way it has grown into a global brand without losing sight of its heritage and core values.”

I N S T R U M E N T S text: alvin wong

HIT PARADE

CONSIDER THIS AN ENTREE BEFORE NEXT ISSUE’S BUMPER WATCH SUPPLEMENT. MEN’S FOLIO PICKS THE MOST NEWSWORTHY TIMEPIECES FROM THIS YEAR’S BASEL AND GENEVA WATCH FAIRS AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Finally, a Royal Oak Offshore that does economic justice to its rabid fan horde. Retailing at approximately S$22,900 and up, the Offshore Diver places AP’s most desired collection within reach of a wider populace of Offshore fanatics. But that is not to say that AP’s skimming on quality. Ticking off on signature Offshore design and technical codes, the stainless steel line, powered by AP’s proprietary automatic Calibre 3120, is fortified by mechanical robustness with anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties, and salt-water resistance with the capacity to explore depths of up to 300m. With its very do-able price and solid mechanical lineage, this is a great AP option for serious first-time collectors.

FRANCK MULLER Liberty

Enough of wild time displays circa the Crazy Hours and Secret Hours collections. Franck Muller shows that it, too, can do simple with the new Liberty watch. The timepiece’s unadorned style featuring a sparse, sun-stamped lacquered dial and an 18K white gold case looks subdued, but that’s the point. One’s attention ought to be drawn to what’s inside – Franck Muller’s latest inhouse automatic movement (FM2210 with central second hand, or FM2211 with a small-seconds counter at ‘9’), which does its job quietly and reliably. Armed with Franck Muller’s proprietary crank-handle rod winding system that ensures greater winding efficiency, the Liberty watch might not raise eyebrows like the 36-complication cousin, the Aeternitas Mega. But it shows that Franck Muller still has what it takes for restrained and elegant horological statements.

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PIAGET

Limelight Jazz Tourbillon Relatif

Not everyone can ‘get’ Piaget’s Tourbillon Relatif – both figuratively and literally – but the piece-unique collection has been the brand’s star at each Geneva fair and this year is no different. Earlier versions paid tribute to Venice, New York and Paris with champlevé enamel decorations set against the Calibre 608P, a manually wound movement with a flying tourbillon.

Taking on the world of jazz this time, Piaget crafts an evocative number. The watch comes alive with musical notes as indexes, keyboard motifs and silhouette of a saxophonist on the case back, set off by the deep lustre of glossy black enamel. Strictly made-to-order, a piece takes about six months to complete – just in time for your Christmas shindig.

MONTBLANC

Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Chronograph

Of the slew of tourbillon-chronographs issued this year, Montblanc’s version ranks as one of the best. Why? Simply because the ExoTourbillon Chronograph is cleverer and more graceful. Set against a regulator-style dial, complication connoisseurs will marvel at the tourbillon’s construction where the balance resides above the cage instead of within it. It is a masterstroke that apparently optimises the mechanism’s anti-gravity function and uses 30 per cent less energy than conventional tourbillons. Meantime, the chronograph features a mono-pusher construction with column wheel, allowing for more precise interval measurements while accentuating the watch’s overall refinement. Decorated with an engine-turned dial, circular graining and refined finishing, it comes in platinum, and 18K white and red gold.

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TAG HEUER

Carrera 1887 Chronograph

Benefitting from technological leaps since it was created in 1964, the Carrera, TAG Heuer’s most celebrated chronograph, has undergone an overhaul under the hood to emerge with a new engine that promises better performance and precision. Key to the hype is the Calibre 1887, an integrated column-wheel chronograph movement with a proprietary oscillating pinion that guarantees smoother actuation of the chronograph function. The movement also features a new winding system that is supposedly 30 per cent more efficient compared to traditional chronographs. The official release describes the Carrera 1887 as a “third-millennium chronograph”. We’d like to think it simply as a classic that got better with time.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2

Further proof that JLC’s future lies in the field of tough and technically advanced watches, the Extreme Lab 2 supersedes anything the brand has achieved in, well, extreme horology. An offspring of the 1958 Chronometre Geophysic sports watch, and the Extreme Lab 1 that is famously ultra-resistant and requires no lubrication in its movement, the Extreme Lab 2 nudges the tough factor further north. It comes with an extremely light and hardy titanium alloy case (TiVan 15) and a scratchproof high-tech zirconium bezel. A chronograph with GMT function, the watch’s advanced construction is augmented by a jumping minutes counter and a power reserve indicator that outlines the top of the inner flange like a trail of laser. But just how tough is the Extreme Lab 2? Well, the watch set out on an expedition to conquer a virgin peak in the Himalayas and emerged unscathed. The summit has since been christened Antoine LeCoultre’s Peak.

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BREGUET

Tradition Fusee Tourbillon with Silicon Balance Spring

Do not trust your eyes because it is not the enigmatic tinge on this Tradition’s silvered 18K gold open-worked dial and platinum case that is the highlight here. The real deal is at the dial’s 2 o’clock, where a tiny thread-like coil called the balance spring expands and contracts like a metronome to regulate the watch’s heartbeat. Usually made of metal, Breguet’s version is constructed in silicon, an ultra-resistant material considered by the watch industry as the future gold standard for movement parts. But the brand’s not new to silicon technology; it has been creating silicon parts since 2006. Despite a demeanour that says vintage classicism, Breguet gets our props for constantly thinking ahead of the curve.

CARTIER

Calibre de Cartier

Cartier seems to be on a roll. Barely two years after launching the Ballon Bleu collection, Cartier introduces another new collection this year with the Calibre de Cartier. Endowed with the elegance of a Pasha and measured robustness of a Santos, the collection amplifies signature Cartier codes including classic Roman numerals on the dial and cabochonset crowns. Most of all, it features the brand’s first in-house automatic movement, the Calibre 1904 with 48-hour power reserve and Cotes de Geneve decoration. The new collection is not just an aesthetic or mechanical feat. Cartier’s R&D department must be doing something right as a new collection takes time and investment. The next couple of years look bright indeed for the French label.

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I N S T R U M E N T S text: jason kwong

PLAYING IT COOL LIKE-MINDED IN THEIR PURSUIT OF ELEGANCE, JASPER MORRISON AND RADO’S COLLABORATIVE R5.5 COLLECTION HAS BECOME A HIT FOR THE WATCH MARQUE

The Rado r5.5 in glossy (top) and matte finish

Jasper Morrison

Both are renowned for their simple designs – Rado is a champion of

minimalist horological style with glossy, high-tech ceramic watches, while British designer Jasper Morrison is feted for his eye for simple aesthetics using familiar forms. And it was a sense of ‘why didn’t it happen earlier’ that pervaded their collaboration on the occasion of Rado’s 50th anniversary in 2008.

To celebrate, Rado engaged Jasper to restyle its Ceramic Chronograph. The designer came up with five versions, each featuring a different gold tint on the sub-dials and rounded edges on the minute track

that appears to espouse the collaborators’ less-is-more design sensibility with ease. But Jasper remembers he was full of anxiety while working on the project.

“I had to quickly absorb the knowledge which others have acquired over a number of years. The watch had to be convincing or it would be my last assignment as a watch designer,” says the decorated designer. But he really shouldn’t have worried. The collaboration proved to be so successful that the following year, Rado signed Jasper on to create a full-fledged quartz collection called r5.5.

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Basic three-hand r5.5

Matte version of the r5.5 chronograph

Black matte ceramic chronograph with metallic blue dial and silvered sub-dials

Named after the radius of its curved corners, the r5.5 sees Jasper introducing a ‘soft’ square case with rounded edges to Rado’s typically sharp and structured lines.

He also introduces simpler dial designs – severely pared-down for three-hand models, and featuring only two chronograph sub-dials instead for the chronographs. This year, the collection welcomes new automatic variants, as well as a white ceramic model with champagne dial festooned with diamonds.

As for Jasper, whose works span furniture and kitchen appliances to office spaces, his success with watches adds another well-earned feather to his cap. And the horological world is knocking hard on his door too. Since r5.5, he has gone on to collaborate with another legendary Swiss watch brand, Jaeger-LeCoultre, to design its limited edition Atmos Clock.o

r5.5 Automatic

The Ceramica chronographs Jasper Morrison designed for Rado’s 50th anniversary

PICTURES COURTESY OF RADO

The new automatic r5.5 comes with a crystal case back to showcase its movement

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I N S T R U M E N T S text: joshua yap

ELEMENTARY ELEGANCE

DESIGN SIMPLICITY CONTINUES TO BE CK WATCHES’ STRONGEST SUIT, EXEMPLIFIED BY ITS 2010 PRE-BASELWORLD SHOWCASE IN BOROBUDUR

Arlette-Elsa Emch, president of ck Watch & Jewelry (centre) and models flaunting ck’s timepieces at its pre-BaselWorld 2010 presentation

Not all fashion watches are created equal. While some gun for short-term gratification with faddish designs, others transcend flashing fancies with timeless looks. ck’s watch collection belongs to the latter.

A collaboration between the Calvin Klein and the Swatch Group, the watches merge the American designer’s contemporary minimalist sensibilities with the Swiss conglomerate’s watchmaking expertise. Its 2010 collections are no different, oozing with elegance and finesse.

“We draw inspiration from the world we live in; from the shape of a stone to the lines of contemporary architecture,” says Arlette-Elsa Emch, president of ck Watch & Jewelry at its pre-BaselWorld 2010 presentation at Amanjiwo Resort in Borobudur, Indonesia. “We also maintain very strong links with Calvin Klein so that we can align our collections with what he presents on the runway. The collection is all about modernity, simplicity, sensuality and most importantly, sexiness.”o

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Deluxe

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District Bold

Deluxe

For those who like a dash of eccentricity, the tastefully quirky ck Deluxe offers an off-centre time display on a cool grey or silver dial. Otherwise, the timepiece is a picture of studied restraint from its fluid round case to the classic croco-effect black leather strap.

District

Fans of architecture will fall for ck District. Inspired by modern buildings, the asymmetrical watch features a guilloche-engraved dial that emulates the idiosyncratic case shape.

Bold

Strive

This failsafe dress watch is one of ck’s most enduring collections. Epitomising the brand’s minimalist ethos, Bold is marked by simple lines and a distinct modernism that is unmistakably Calvin Klein. Available in basic three-hand as well as chronograph and big date versions, it comes with leather strap or stainless steel bracelet.

Strive

Blending sportiness and sophistication, ck Strive will appeal to weekend warriors. Fronted by a handsome dial in iridescent silver or cool grey with sunray and circular details, its brilliance is amped up by a classy round case and matching bracelet that juxtapose polished and brushed stainless steel.

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text & styling: weilun photography: ching / capsule productions

Watches from top: HAMILTON Below Zero 1000M in stainless steel with black leather strap U-BOAT Classico 1001 limited edition in titanium with black rubber strap ORIS William F1 Team Day Date in stainless steel with black rubber strap Accessories from left: GUCCI Black rubberised python messenger bag with flap PRADA Black perforated leather document bag

WORK IT OUT FINESSE SMART-CASUAL FRIDAY LOOKS WITH A SPORTS-INSPIRED FLOURISH

I N S T R U M E N T S

Watches clockwise from top: CROCODILE CR307 in steel case and bracelet TITONI Airliner in black PVD-coated steel with black rubber strap VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY Summit XLT in stainless steel with matching bracelet ADIDAS ADP3005 analog/digital multifunction watch in polycarbonate case and rubber strap Accessories from left: ZEGNA SPORT Navy perforated leather gym bag DIOR HOMME Black leather belt with silver buckle GUCCI Black rubberised python messenger bag with flap ALFRED DUNHILL Black leather double-zip travel companion case

Watches clockwise from top: DIEVAS Vortex in titanium case and James Bond Nato strap CYMA Champion in stainless steel case and bracelet CK CALVIN KLEIN CK75 Celerity in stainless steel with black leather strap Accessories clockwise from left: PRADA Black perforated leather document bag BURBERRY Black leather detachable high-cut sneakers HUGO Black leather strapped sandal GUCCI White leather loafer with silver buckle clasp

I N S T R U M E N T S

Watches clockwise from top: GUESS COLLECTION Gc Sports Class Chrono I30005G1 in stainless steel with black rubber strap KENNETH COLE Round watch in black stainless steel with white rubber strap LEVIS LTF10 Core in black stainless steel with black leather strap ODM MY01 Reverse in matt plastic with black rubber strap

Accessories clockwise from top: BURBERRY Black canvas sling bag with flap and buckle GUCCI Black rubberised python messenger bag with flap PRADA Black perforated leather hat DSQUARED2 Silver matchstick pendant with necklace *Cocoon mirror candy bowl, all by Philippi from MOLECULE, #02-33A , Great World City, 1 Kim Seng Promenade

I N S T R U M E N T S text: joshua yap

MOVING ON UP

NOKIA’S NEW OVI MAPS APPLICATION, POSSIBLY THE BEST TRAVEL BUDDY ONE CAN FIND, STOLE THE SHOW AT THE BRAND’S SHOWCASE 2010 IN BANGKOK Ovi Maps’ walk navigation function with 3D landmark renderings makes exploring cities by foot a cinch

Ovi Maps Landscape View

If one

has attempted to track down an elusive Michelin-starred restaurant in London only to head back to the hotel for room service, or tried locating that quaint and highly rated Florentine pension only to end up in a cheap motel, Nokia’s Ovi Maps will be a godsend. The best part is it comes at no extra cost with a Nokia GPS-equipped mobile device.

Nokia’s Ovi Maps is not new, but it has undergone a considerable upgrade since its rollout in 2007. Launched in late January, the improved Ovi Maps sounds the death knell for standalone GPS companies like Garmin and TomTom. Leveraging on its strategic acquisition of navigation software developer gate5 and digital mapping company NAVTEQ, Nokia’s navigation application is a force to be reckoned with.

While NAVTEQ scours the globe to compile up-to-date data, gate5 provides the know-how to build digital mobile maps. The result is a comprehensive and reliable navigation solution that provides maps of more than 180 countries, driving or walking navigation for over 70 countries, and real-time voice guidance in 46 languages. It also allows you to create and plan your journey online on a PC and sync your itinerary to your handset wirelessly.

Need more than mere directions? Ovi Maps sweetens the deal with attractions, dining, accommodation, retail and nightlife listings for over 1,000 destinations from Lonely Planet and Michelin, as well as events listing via its search function. Facebook junkies too will have a ball updating their profile status seamlessly and sharing their location details.

Lest you think you can achieve the same with GPS-enabled mobile devices from other brands, Nokia will have you know that its Ovi Maps is unbeatable when it comes to savings. Employing dynamic hybrid vector maps that are stored into the device, the application functions even when there is no 3G or data connectivity. Compare this to Google Maps navigation which needs to constantly download map information over a network connection, and we have a clear winner. As Ovi Maps needs no roaming data connectivity to operate, it means there are virtually no data charges. If all these don’t get your wanderlust up and running, we don’t know what will.o

Ovi Maps gives you voiceguided car navigation with updated traffic information before you can say Garmin and TomTom

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With hotel, dining and attractions information at your fingertips, you no longer have to second-guess your next move in a foreign land

I N S T R U M E N T S text: joshua yap

LIFE, RELOADED

MAKE YOUR SMARTPHONE WORK HARDER WITH THESE TOP-OF-THE-RANGE APPLICATIONS

PERSONAL ASSISTANT

TRIPIT

Works on: Android, BlackBerry, iPhone and Windows Mobile

Works on: Android, BlackBerry and iPhone

DOCUMENTS TO GO

ISSUU MOBILE

Works on: Android, BlackBerry, iPhone, Symbian, Maemo and Windows Mobile

Works on: Android and iPhone (available soon)

FRING

SHAZAM

It’s as good as having a secretary, accountant and concierge at no extra cost. Personal Assistant combines 10 organisational tools – from finance management to email tracking – to keep one’s life in order.

Get some work done as you commute.

Documents To Go lets you create, download, edit and share Microsoft Office documents through an Exchange server connection – a useful application to keep from your boss.

Although Skype still has a stronghold on VoIP calls, fring is taking it to a whole new level. Just sync it with MSN messenger, Facebook and Twitter accounts to make free calls without a PC. Works on: Android, iPhone, Symbian and Windows Mobile

Like a personal tour guide, TripIt organises travel plans into a neat master travel itinerary. Just forward all confirmation emails to its website and you will be able to get maps and directions as well as connect directly to airlines, hotels and destinations.

Do your bit for the environment and catch up on your reading at the same time.

With Issuu Mobile, you can access over one million free publications including magazines, newspapers and books minus a paper trail.

Shazam has a database of over eight million artists, albums and track information.

Simply power it up, hold your phone to any music source and all you need to know about the song that’s playing will be available in a matter of seconds.

Works on: Android, BlackBerry, iPhone and Windows Mobile

PHOTOSHOP.COM MOBILE

SPORTYPAL

The mobile version of the popular photo editing software may not offer the same set of features as its full version but it is handy enough to edit and enhance pictures onthe-go. In addition, it also provides onebutton uploading of images to an online photo library.

Works on: Android, iPhone, Windows Mobile

MEN’S FOLIO 184

One of the top-rated fitness applications around, SportyPal maps your movements to calculate calories burnt as you run, cycle, walk or rollerblade. Upload your performance onto its website and you can engage in a virtual cardio challenge with SportyPal’s global users.

Works on: Android, Blackberry, iPhone, Symbian and Windows Mobile

P A L A T E text: li haohan

JUST LIKE MAMMA’S

Chef Michele Pavenello whips up specialities at Otto Italian Restaurant that were originally and exclusively served in Italian homes It’s nearly 2pm but the lunchtime crowd at Otto

is still lingering around the tables. The ladies are enjoying their limoncellos as the men work out the bills between sips of espresso. The 75-seat main dining room of the Italian restaurant at the Red Dot Traffic Building is almost full and there are parties asking for the wine list in two of three private dining rooms. Paolo Zanin, the manager, does his best to rise above the confusion, doling out charm and grappa and making sure that no one has to wait too long for service.

In the kitchen, Chef Michele Pavenello also has his hands full. In a couple of days he will roll out a fresh menu for the restaurant – just as he does every three months – and in April he will serve special World Gourmet Summit meals for an entire week capped by an all-cheese, one-night-only dinner. There’s also a family trip in June to his native Treviso for a joint birthday celebration for his son and his father.

But for now, he banishes those distant errands and focuses on preparing a starter of seared slipper lobster with Jerusalem artichoke veloute. A deceptively simple dish, it hinges on the earthy tuber and the sweet crustacean – both of which have delicate yet distinct tastes. To add flavour and seal in the moisture, Chef Michele wraps the lobster in cured Tuscan lard and balances the dish with a garnish of fine Jerusalem artichoke chips. Although elemental, such a dish is obviously a treat in Asia where, despite slipper lobsters’ availability, Jerusalem artichoke remains a novelty.

For a year now, Chef Michele has been creating menus at three-year-old Otto based on the seasonal produce of Italy. It’s not a remote possibility that what he serves in Singapore is being enjoyed at that very moment in some Italian trattoria. This is the same modus operandi that caught the attention of diners at restaurants he has helmed previously. Key to his strategy is procuring the season’s best ingredients direct from Italy and finding the rest nearby. If health officials, say, suddenly lift the ban on Italian pork, Chef Michele will be among the first to import the black Calabrian or Caserta pigs to put on his menu.

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Otto is the gem of Red Dot Traffic Building

It does not help either that Chef Michele remains a staunch supporter of original Italian cuisine who never thinks of expediency as an excuse for substituting ingredients. Mention tiramisu with liquor other than the classic Marsala and be prepared to get an impassioned lecture on the original Italian recipe. Nightmarish as it might be for restaurant owners, it’s a dream come true for diners. That he has never been led astray by popular demand for what passes for fusion food is remarkable considering the arduous task of assembling menus whose ingredients lie halfway around the globe. One of his dirty little secrets, however, is a swishy Italian version of the local laksa that he cooked for friends – a venial sin that he will never dream of serving in his restaurant despite wide acclaim.

Just as well. Chef Michele is putting foie gras agnolotti on the new menu – yet another deceptively simple dish that succeeds only with elaborate preparation, precise technique and very fine ingredients. His pasta calls for Idaho potatoes that make for smooth and strong yet tender casing. The foie gras filling is a naughty touch that adds a rich contrast to the potatoes. A coat of rich hazelnut butter and a sprinkling of nutty, bitter cocoa nibs provide another layer of contrast to the dish. (Up to that point, the dishes can be enjoyed with the Prosecco that Paolo dispenses as welcome aperitif, but switching to a hearty Merlot is a much better idea.)

Lunch progresses with tagliatelle, but the highlight here is undoubtedly the ragout of truffle-scented lamb. A reminder to the gastronome: ragout is a rich, well-seasoned stew of meat, fish or poultry; ragu is meat sauce for pasta. Chef Michele’s is the former – a hearty dish of lamb that can stand on its own, but proves much better with any of the reds on the restaurant’s long wine list.

With two other mains coming up, Chef Michele emerges from the kitchen to see how diners are rating his new menu. A large man who could easily pass for a rugby prop or hooker, he reserves an accessible man-boy mien for his patrons. “My wife taught me how to see the restaurant beyond the four walls of the kitchen,” he confesses. Indeed, Singapore has seen the charmers – from the Diego Chiarinis to the Beppe de Vittos – of the Italian restaurant scene but few have exchanged words with Michele Pavenello.

But as part-owner of the establishment, an appearance in the dining room has become de rigueur that he is starting to enjoy.

A private dining room has space for a party of 10 or 12

Another private room easily accommodates 20 diners

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P A L A T E

Pan-roasted halibut fillet with baby spinach and langoustine sauce

Crispy suckling pig lacquered with black locust tree honey and aged balsamic vinegar

OTTO ITALIAN RESTAURANT Red Dot Traffic Building 28 Maxwell Road Tel: 6227 6819 Mon – Fri: lunch and dinner Sat: dinner only

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Potato and foie gras agnolotti with hazelnut butter and cocoa nibs

PICTURES COURTESY OF OTTO ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Chef Michele takes time to introduce his next dish, a pan-roasted halibut fillet with baby spinach and langoustine sauce. Versions of this dish abound – a token fish with poached vegetables on the side and perhaps a slightly sweet veloute or creamy mashed potatoes, but his base of langoustine sauce is a worthy effort that stratifies the fillet with rich seafood flavour. It is not a haphazardly constructed dish. The flavours do support each other to provide focus on the fish. The restaurant has a selection of white wines that might have been a more appropriate accompaniment, but with another big dish coming up, it is wise to retain the bottle of Merlot.

Crispy suckling pig suffers from sheer ubiquity; there’s hardly any restaurant, including noodle shops and hole-in-the-wall eateries, which does not dabble in some interpretation of it. Chef Michele must be aware of this commonness that he has lacquered his pork with tree honey and fortified it with aged balsamic vinegar. It might find proper place amongst appetisers, but some diners might find it deserving of more attention as a main.

Giamaica coffee tiramisu – with Marsala wine, of course! – and candied orange peel and ricotta cheese trifles with dark warm chocolate sauce round out lunch. Desserts are often denied the consideration they deserve, and are sometimes regarded as an afterthought. Chef Michele reverses this by opting for a strong finish. These desserts are thoughtful endings to a powerfully structured new menu, one that highlights balance of taste, fresh seasonal ingredients and discernible structure.

The pinstripe crowd is gone and only a handful of regulars hangs around. Paolo brings out the grappa – if not for anything the Italians must be praised for their choice of digestif – and the potent coffees. The new menu starts with an easy yet surefooted vivace and gradually builds up to a crescendo that is sustained to the last sip. o

D E S T I N A T I O N S text & photography: dave g houser

NATURE STUDY Leap straight into a National Geographic Channel and discover what Adam missed out on with a visit to the Galapagos Islands off Ecuador MEN’S FOLIO 188

The Galapagos Archipelago is a bit like a lost Eden. Situated some 975 km off the Ecuadorian coast, it comprises a cluster of 19 enchanting isles adrift in a blue tropical sea. Within it, a veritable eco-tapestry teems with the colour and life of nature’s untouched splendour. One finds gigantic tortoises, flightless seabirds, seagoing lizards, blue-footed boobies, red-throated frigate birds and four-eyed fish well-protected within the boundaries of a national park.

Then there is the land itself. Fractured and forbidding for most parts, these islands were recently formed by volcanic cataclysm. Situated at the confluence of the Pacific, Cocos and Nazca tectonic plates, the archipelago is a highly active geologic area. The youngest of the islands, Isabella and Fernandina, remain especially volatile and were blistered by major volcanic eruptions as recent as in 2005. Major ocean currents bathe the islands, contributing to the tremendous diversity of species that congregate here, including over 500 species of fish, 800 species of mollusks and 430 varieties of flowering plants.

Visiting the Galapagos is both a terrestrial and a nautical adventure. One flies in from Guayaquil or Quito, Ecuador. After that, the island-hopping is done by boat. There are a number of excursion vessels that can be booked, mostly converted motor and sailing yachts.

Typically carrying 20 or fewer guests, they’re based at marinas on both San Cristobal and Santa Cruz Islands. Airports on both islands also handle passenger traffic from the mainland.

I arrived for my voyage on San Cristobal. There, I was met by crew members from Ecoventura Cruises and then promptly escorted to Eric – one of three identical 20-passenger motor yachts owned by a family-run company. Quickly settling into one of its cabins – the yacht also comes with plush salons and spacious decks for wildlife viewing – we sailed into a warm breeze for our Galapagos discovery.

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The local markets and shops on the sleepy Santa Cruz island offers a nice touristy respite A blowhole spouting seawater on the north coast of Espanola Island

The week-long voyage takes guests on a well-charted course through the archipelago covering Genovesa to the north of the Galapagos, Fernandina in the far west and Espanola at the southern extreme of the archipelago. We managed to visit nine islands, all equally distinctive with their own beguiling charm and peculiar mix of flora and fauna.

In Darwin, for instance, I found myself privileged to observe nature at such close quarters that even the island’s namesake scientist might never have dreamed possible. The experience is made even richer thanks to the insights of our accompanying Ecoventura naturalists, Ivan Lopez and Harry Jimeinez. One not only observes this exciting ecosystem, but interacts with it by way of guided hikes, swimming, snorkeling, diving and kayaking – with Ecoventura providing all the necessary gear.

While taking a backseat to Mother Nature, there is a considerable human dimension to life in the Galapagos. Human settlement is largely contained to the San Cristobal and Santa Cruz Islands. In fact, it is only in the populated areas of these two islands that visitors are permitted to roam about without a National Park guide. We called on Santa Cruz to view the Galapagos tortoise in the wild and to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station.

Along the picturesque harbour of Academy Bay en route to the Darwin Research Station in Puerto Ayora, we encountered a bustling fishing port where men filleted their catch under the watchful eyes of sea lions, boobies and pelicans. Amazingly enough, all waited patiently for the occasional toss of a scrap. Farther afield is a tourist market offering everything from Colombian emeralds to cheap T-shirts.

The main attraction, however, is the Charles Darwin Research Station. This is where tourists get their prized photo taken with the island’s famed giant tortoise that bears a striking resemblance to Spielberg’s ET. Guides told us the most important work of the Station at the moment is to grow the population of these endangered creatures through a captive breeding program.

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Mediterranean beauty abounds in Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz Island

D E S T I N A T I O N S The islands’ well-preserved ecosystem allows travellers to get up close to rare exotic species including tropical penguins, fur seals, lava lizards, giant tortoises and marine iguanas

At the cruise’s end, we docked in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island. Here we shopped for freshly roasted Ecuadorian coffee, enjoyed lunch at a sidewalk cafe and then toured the impressive new Galapagos National Park Interpretation Centre. Funded largely by a grant from the government of Spain, the Centre features three state-of-the-art galleries devoted to the natural and human history of the islands and to the conservation of natural resources.

For nature lovers, though, a visit to these islands is a once in a lifetime experience. After all, it is not every day that one gets to snorkel with playful sea lions, graceful sea turtles and complacent reef sharks. I’ve witnessed the mating dance of the blue-footed boobie, great waved albatross with a wingspread that of a Piper Cub, and a 300-kg tortoise lumbering as if in a Jurassic vision among the lush highlands of Santa Cruz Island. I also contemplated delicate Sally Lightfoot crabs skittering about the lava shores of Isla Santiago, photographed rare tropical penguins, a Galapagos hawk (the world’s most endangered raptor), marine iguanas, mockingbirds, lava lizards and Galapagos fur seals.

These indigenous exotics have no fear of humans and would elicit immense curiosity elsewhere. In Galapagos, however, they are the stuff of everyday beauty.

MORE INFORMATION:

Weather in the Galapagos is cool and dry between June and November, and warm with brief but heavy rain from December to May. 2010 rates for Ecoventura’s motor yachts Eric, Flamingo and Letty range from US$3,225 to US$3,925 (per person, double-cabin) for an eight-day, seven-night voyage. Galapagos National Park entrance fee (US$100) along with transit/departure taxes, airfare and gratuities are extra.o Visit www.ecoventura.com and www.galapagospark.org.ec for more details

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U T I L I T Y

text: wong kee soon styling: weilun photography: jeff chen / calibre hair and grooming: angel gwee model: jhony / upfront

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