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ION ORCHARD TAKASHIMAYA THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS Hilfiger AD_Men Folio Oct.indd 1
3rd Proof
Job No: Title:
CW0810-68 / 4228 Tommy Hilfiger Denim Ad_Men Folio Oct
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ION ORCHARD TAKASHIMAYA THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS Hilfiger AD_Men Folio Oct.indd 1
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Job No: Title:
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M6-Franck AD 1
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CONTENTS MUSE
FASHION: 140 TICKET TO RIDE
Hit the road in rugged casualwear
148 REIN CHECK
Get a grip on equestrian fashion and countryside chic
156 SOMETHING’S BREWING
Issey Miyake gets inspired by a morning cuppa
162 PEAK TIME
D&G scales the apex of alpine style
INSIGHT: 180 ART OF WAR
190 STARDUST MEMORIES
184 SKIN DEEP
192 HOW TO ... LUGGAGE
The impact and evolution of military-inspired fashion
Italian inspirations abound in Bonia’s Asianmade leather goods
182 AMERICAN IDOLS
Tommy Hilfiger revisits his childhood heroes for his new Icon collection
186 NO WHITE FLAGS
Singapore streetwear pioneer Surrender grows up
188 WELCOME BACK
Alfred Dunhill’s Marina Bay Sands boutique boasts the same impeccable personality of its global Home concept stores
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189 MAKE YOUR MARK
Dior Homme’s Marina Bay Sands boutique exclusives
188
Alfred Dunhill Marina Bay Sands boutique
Malaysian celebrities lend star power to Royal Selangor
Style and security tips for the jet-set
198 IT’S PERSONAL
Five-star hotels and fine dining restaurants do not impress celebrity hairstylist Kim Robinson
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CONTENTS MIX
Top wardrobe add-ons this October
FORM: 209 NOCTURNAL FRINGE
RENEW: 206 TIGHT TURNAROUND
210 UGLY PRETTY THINGS
200 WEAR:
Ultherapy is the latest non-invasive aesthetic treatment for the time-starved
207 HYDRO THERAPIES Thirst quenchers for the skin
Foscarini’s Diesel lamps mine the underbelly of Goths and garages
British industrial designer Matthew Hilton discusses unconventional aesthetics
212 CRYSTAL CHARGE
Sparkling sensations from Milan Fair 2010
208 THE CHOSEN ONE
Matthew McConaughey discusses sexiness and D&G’s latest fragrance
210
From top: Matthew Hilton’s Light Extending table, Mars round table and Fractured table
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CONTENTS MIX
TIME: 215 ECLECTIC DREAMS
TECH: 230 THE FUTURE IS NOW
216 START SWEATING IT
SENSATIONS: 232 FEELS LIKE HOME
Outlandish horological beauties
Park your money on a sportive timepiece
217 UP FOR AIR
Reasons to love Porsche Design new diver’s watch
Make 3D gaming a reality
The swankiest service residences from around the world
236 SCENE
218 LOVE-IN
Renoma’s Rolling Stones exhibition in Paris, Audemars Piguet’s Gold Cup polo tournament, Azimuth’s Back In Time watch party
219 RETURN TO GRACE
239 THE ART OF ... LOSING ONESELF
Panerai’s new limited edition Luminor is a Paneristi’s dream come true
Elegant timepieces from fashion labels
220 CRICKET CLUB
Vulcain CEO Bernard Fleury reflects on the legacy of the brand’s Cricket Alarm mechanism
222 ANYWHERE, ANYTIME Globetrotting GMT watches you can trust
DRIVE: 226 ON THE PROWL
The Wildcat 300 STR is a competition offroader with a licence plate
COVER
YUN XIANG wears BOSS BLACK black leather quilt biker jacket, ARMANI EXCHANGE black and grey striped cotton pants, DIESEL black and white chain print cotton scarf and black leather high-cut studded boots. FRANCK MULLER Conquistador Tourbillon Grand Prix in rose gold with black leather strap DUCATI 1098 from 6Speed, 31 Loyang Drive, S508946 Photography: Munster/T2 Pictures Styling: Kien Koh assisted by Weilun Grooming: Larry yeo using Lancome Men Genific HD and Redken Hair: Leoric/Jeric Hair Salon With special thanks to Denny Koh/6Speed for his kind assistance
Sometimes self-expression means being someone else
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Clockwise from left: Hong Kong CHI residences, 279 Shanghai Street, 314 Nathan Street and 393 Shanghai Street
NEW INSTRUMENT BR 01-92 RADAR DISK-BASED DISPLAY SYSTEM LIMITED EDITION TO 500 PIECES
Bell & Ross Boutique : 333A Orchard Road #01-15 Mandarin Gallery Singapore 238897 • Tel : (65) 6884 6471 • Fax : (65) 6884 6472 • bellross.mandaringallery@fjbenjamin.com www.bellross.com Available at: All Watches Wisma Atria Tel: 6733 2823 • Cortina Watch Ion Orchard Tel: 6509 9218 Millenia Walk Tel: 6339 1728 Raffles City Tel: 6339 9185 • Dickson Watch & Jewellery Wisma Atria Tel: 6737 6451 • Sincere Fine Watches Lucky Plaza Tel: 6737 4593 Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 9782 Ngee Ann City Tel: 6733 0618 Suntec City Tel: 6337 5150 VivoCity Tel: 6278 1698 • Swiss Watch Gallery Resorts World Sentosa Tel: 6732 8022 • Watches of Switzerland Paragon Tel: 6732 9793 Tampines Mall Tel: 6783 6535 F J Benjamin Service Centre • 230 Orchard Road, #04-230 Faber House, Singapore 238854 • Service Centre: (65) 6736 3933 • Office: (65) 6737 0155 • www.fjbenjamin.com
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TEAM Publisher/Editorial Director EDDY KOH Managing Editor ALVIN WONG Fashion Editor KIEN KOH Features Editor WONG KEE SOON Senior Writer FEROUZ Features Writer ANDRE FROIS Assistant Stylist TOK WEI LUN Assistant VP, Sales & Marketing AILEEN SOH Consultant, Sales & Marketing SHAWN ANG Executive, Sales & Marketing HUDA KARIM Marketing Coordinator KAI Art Director HAN Graphic Designer JEREMY GOH Design Director YEE WAI FONG MEN’S FOLIO MICA (P) No. 041/01/2010 & ISSN 0219-0982 is a publication of HEART PUBLISHING PTE LTD 2 Alexandra Road #07-08 Delta House Singapore 159919 Telephone (65) 6733 9931 Facsimile (65) 6733 5661 Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd No part of MEN’S FOLIO may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written consent from Heart Publishing Pte Ltd
INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS MEN’S FOLIO MALAYSIA HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor Mail Box 334 Fahrenheit 88 (formerly known as KL Plaza) 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur Malaysia Tel (603) 2148 9923 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia MEN’S FOLIO HONG KONG HEART MEDIA LIMITED Unit 2001 20th Floor 9-11 Leighton Road Causeway Bay Hong Kong Tel (852) 2573 9983 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia MEN’S FOLIO INDONESIA PT. KINGPIN MEDIA PO Box 6169 JKUPL 1440 Indonesia Tel +62 21 2555 4450 / 2555 4451 Email info@kingpinmedia.co.id
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UNIT 01-48, PARAGON, TEL. 65.6738.3323 • LEVEL 1, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE TEL. 65.6738.2212
CONTRIBUTORS MUNSTER, photographer
Contribution: Cover, Ticket to Ride, Great White My favourite mode of escape is: Spending a quiet day at the beach with my partner and our lovely dogs
MAY TAY, make-up artist Contribution: Great White My favourite mode of escape is: To first of all pray very hard, then ... run!
LARRY YEO, make-up artist Contribution: Great White My favourite mode of escape is: Eating at champagne brunches, pigging out on fresh foie gras
FREDERIC ARANDA, photographer Contribution: Something’s Brewing My favourite mode of escape is: The swimming pool, about a hundred laps
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VOICE
FOR A SONG They sang – all 33 Chilean miners trapped beneath half a mile of earth when they first made contact with rescuers. It was Chile’s national anthem, I believe, sung with gusto and joy, probably starting with one voice and joined by the others towards a quick, steady crescendo. It might not be until early Christmas when all of them will be excavated. But for a moment, upon hearing the good news, the miners sang and it took them someplace else.
A song is refuge, consolation and medicine for the spirit. A song is also a jailbreak, not just for the trapped miners, but for those of us who embrace and grant it memories to give it meaning. Each time I listen to Massive Attack’s Safe From Harm, I am 20 again – bold, brash, intoxicated, and having the time of my life. Other times, especially after a tedious argument, a dose of Don MacLean’s Everyday reminds me that life’s too short to stay unhappy. The powers and pleasures of escape are often equalled by our fervour of their pursuit. And why shouldn’t we? A good escape soothes, inspires, excites and amplifies life itself. And there are many ways to go about it too – private islands, space travel, aural drugs, off-road racers, reclusive furniture… the list goes on and we’ll leave you to decide your preferred treat. But for me, my most rewarding journeys have been made alone, on my bed and with a thumb on the iPod click wheel.
ALVIN WONG
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“THE PERSON SUSCEPTIBLE TO WANDERLUST IS NOT SO MUCH ADDICTED TO MOVEMENT AS COMMITTED TO TRANSFORMATION” – PICO IYER
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Luxury travel isn’t only about the hardware. Louis Vuitton would know. As a 16-year-old apprentice packer, Louis helped stow suits of European aristocrats into trunks, ensuring that they stayed wrinkle-free. By the time he built the world’s first flattop trunk in 1845, Louis understood that luxury travel is about melding new experiences with old habits; that how one travels defines the promise of his journey. LV trunks have since served the picky upper echelons of society, from the Pasha of Egypt to Karl Lagerfeld. Their lure and legend, while impossible to encapsulate in words, can now be experienced at the Voyage En Capitale exhibition at Paris’ Carnavalet Museum. Featuring vintage pieces, archive drawings and other historical artefacts, the showcase runs from mid-October to 27 February 2011. AW
X10
3D INSTIGATORS INSTIGATORS 3D
LUMIERE BROTHERS
Cinema folklore has it that during the 1895 screening of Louis and Auguste Lumiere’s L’arrivee d’un Train (The Arrival Of The Train) – one of the first motion picture screenings ever – several members of the audience were so traumatised that they fled the theatre screaming. It is not quite Avatar, but the 2D short, a 50-second clip of a locomotive pulling into the station, unequivocally sowed the seeds for 3D entertainment. Even during cinema’s infancy, the Lumeiere brothers were keenly aware of the medium’s dramatic potential. Film historians vouched that the brothers had tried, but failed, to achieve a 3D image with stereoscopic technology even before their first screening. They eventually succeeded with a 3D remake of L’arrivee d’un Train in 1935. AW
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PLAY LOUNGER LOUNGER BY DEDON
Innocuous looking sofas, armchairs and settees are open invitations for mindless banter with banal company. When a speedy exit is not an option, precious me-time can be sought with thoughtfully constructed furniture that offers seclusion minus the isolation. Dedon’s Play lounger by Philippe Starck and Eugeni Quitlet shields one away from worldly distractions with a cocoon design that shuts out unwelcome attention. JY
Takashimaya Level 2 . 6735 8600 . www.kenzo.com Men's Folio Oct'10.indd 1
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TREEHOTEL Trust the Swedes’ architectural pedigree to morph godforsaken woodlands into an upscale escapade. In the remote northern Swedish town of Harads lies the Treehotel, a plush eco-friendly abode designed by five creative supremos including Tham & Videgård Architects and InredningsGruppen. Nestled atop tree trunks and branches are six thematic luxury suites that leave Banyan Tree and Andaman resorts in the dust. One could take a relaxing bath inside a man-made bird’s nest, immerse in a light read on a faux spacecraft or observe wilderness from a suspended cabin. For the ultimate isolation jaunt, we recommend The Mirrorcube, a science fictionesque one-way glass box that enforces another rain check on reality. WKS
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THAM & VIDEGÅRD ARCHITECTS AND TREEHOTEL
www.treehotel.se
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SPACE TRAVEL TRAVEL SPACE BY VIRGIN GALACTIC
How’s a three-and-a-half hour extraterrestrial escapade for an exotic getaway? Sir Richard Branson’s latest business endeavour involves catapulting affluent individuals into the final frontier. For the world’s first large-scale space tourism venture, Mr. Virgin himself has designed an extravagant experience like no other. For US$200,000, one is propelled at three times the speed of sound, in a vertical 105-km blast-off from the Mojave Desert, where he may then float off into weightlessness and star-gaze through 17inch portholes which perforate the semi-circumference of the six-seater Virgin craft. Aspiring astronauts may sign up at www. virgingalactic.com. AF
LONDON
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AURAL HIGHS BY I-DOSER
Finally, happiness that you won’t get hung for! Snap on your headphones and float off with Major Tom, because this trip is perfectly legal, says digital drugs manufacturer, i-Doser. Apparently, these high-fidelity highs are harmless, non-addictive, and claim to help one lose weight, as well as overcome addiction, anxiety and greying hair. i-Doser’s proprietary technology produces binaural tones – two sounds of slightly differing pitches – that alter brainwaves to frequencies which mimic various narcotic highs. Get your fix at www.i-doser.com AF
Chai Ming OptiCal ph. +65 65338480 Style DQ0058 DSQuareD2.COM
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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF PRIVATE ISLANDS INC
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RETRO-FITTED BICYCLES BICYCLES BY VANGUARD DESIGNS
Porsches and Lamborghinis aren’t the only vehicles of choice for spiriting away quarter- to mid-life predicaments. Recent tete-a-tetes with local luxury industry honchos have inadvertently led to the talk of racers and mountain bikes. “It keeps us fit,” one happily reports. We totally dig the health bit, but for fashion folks, sweat and grime can be a real sticky issue. For two-wheelers that pump adrenaline sans the spandex and mud, we look instead to Vanguard Designs. Inspired by classic car and urban architecture, it makes custom cruisers, low-riders and messenger bikes with recycled steel and vintage parts. One might not go fast or far on these, but as far as style mileage goes, these babies will leave a trail of envy. AW www.vanguard-designs.com
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AMOUR CLUB CLUB TOKYO
Two things we know and love about the Japanese: 1) they can get really kinky behind closed doors, and 2) they love karaoke. Put the two together and throw in members-only cachet, an asset-flushed otaku would’ve thought he had stumbled upon heaven on earth, which is the case with Tokyo’s Amour club. Opened by Swedish graffiti artist Andre Saravia and designed by Marc Newson, Amour shines like a solitaire in a city of over 21,000 karaoke bars. Four sexy, secretive suites with themed interiors spanning opulent baroque style to a boudoir complete with strip-joint lights and dancing pole equal a night of willful pleasures that may, or may not, include singing one’s heart out. KK 1F Aoyama Centre Building, 3-8-40 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo www.amour-bar.jp
Xtreme-1 Deep Diver - Water Resistant 2000m - Helium Gas Escape Valve - Anti-magnetic
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SINGAPORE HEAD OFFICE & SERVICE CENTRE: AZIMUTH WATCH CO.
52 Taman Warna T +65 6557 0057
SINGAPORE BOUTIQUES: Mandarin Gallery, Orchard Road #02-20 T +65 6736 1766 Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue, #B1-87 T +65 6688 7856 RETAILER: BEZEL Raffles City Shopping Centre T +65 6333 5833 KRASNAYA The watch Art Gallery, ION Orchard #B3-03 T + 65 6509 8606 RED ARMY WATCHES Millenia Walk T + 65 6341 9007
SINGAPORE . SWITZERLAND . JAPAN . HONG KONG . MALAYSIA . INDONESIA . UNITED KINGDOM . BELGIUM . DENMARK . LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS . FRANCE . RUSSIA . SPAIN . MEXICO . USA . CANADA . QATAR . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . DUBAI . ABU DHABI . OMAN
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WHITE TIGER CHEST CHEST TIGER BY SHANGHAI TANG
A well-thumbed Lonely Planet guide promises budget thrills and DIY adventures off the beaten track. A Luxe City Guide, on the other hand, cuts to the chase by fastidiously compiling the chicest and most luxurious places to stay, dine, shop and sightsee. If cost isn’t a consideration this holiday season, peruse Shanghai Tang’s Luxe City Guides box-set comprising 30 guidebooks in a maple and ebony veneer maquetry chest lined with kumquat silk. Limited to 70 sets, they are available online at www.luxecityguides.com. AW
ESSENTIAL
N.TYLER White cotton shirt, black cotton suit, white silk pocket square, white silk tie
DKNY JEANS White cotton shirt, grey wool padded vest, CK JEANS Blue washed denim jeans, RADO True Sport in black high-tech ceramic with matching bracelet, POLO RALPH LAUREN Olive cotton weave belt
(TOP) ASTON BLAKE White cotton striped shirt with wing tip collar, TATEOSSIAN LONDON* Silver octopus cufflink, THOMAS SABO Silver chain with coin pendant, CK JEWELRY Stainless steel ring, LEVI’S Core LTG14 in blackened stainless steel with black leather strap (LEFT) DOLCE & GABBANA White cotton shirt, BOSS SELECTION Light brown cotton check pants, GUCCI G-timeless in stainless steel with matching bracelet, brown suede leather belt, light brown nylon monogram umbrella *Tateossian London is available at Aston Blake, #01-83 Millenia Walk, 9 Raffles Boulevard
N.TYLER White cotton shirt, navy cotton check bowtie, CK JEWELRY Stainless steel fractal bracelet, HAMILTON Jazzmaster Slim in rose gold with black leather strap
PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER/T2 PICTURES STYLING: KIEN KOH ASSISTED BY WEILUN GROOMING: MAY TAY USING COLOURS FROM M.A.C COSMETICS HAIR: SEAN ANG USING PRODUCTS FROM L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL MODEL: RAPHI / UPFRONT
ESSENTIAL
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GUCCI HORSEBIT The double-ring and bar is one of the most recognisable fashion emblems and continues to take on a multitude of incarnations today TEXT: ANDRE FROIS
The Gucci
horsebit mimicks a horse tack used in equestrian sports and is inspired by founder Guccio Gucci’s love for horseriding.
The jointed brass horsebit first appeared in the 1950s on Gucci’s heavy tan leather, saddle-stitched handbags.
Manifestations of the horsebit motif are endless; it has been embossed, printed, burnt-out on fabric, and even sculpted onto precious stones. This season, it adorns Gucci’s gilded bracelets. The horsebit first appeared on Gucci loafers in 1953, and is now synonymous with the footwear. Pictured on the right is a crocodile skin loafer from Fall/Winter 2010.
Gucci opened a store in New York in 1977, a gleaming glass phalanx which stands on 5th Avenue, specially dedicated to horsebit-emblazoned shoes.
SPORT B. mines grunge attitude and rebellion, revisiting the revolutionary black leather jacket and distressed denim jeans that evoke badass confidence
Play It Cool
SPORT B.
Red cotton tartan shirt ($215), black leather biker jacket ($1,490), black waxed denim jeans ($285), blue leather belt ($135), black canvas shoes ($165), black nylon haversack ($375), gold plated necklace ($135)
Text: Wong Kee Soon Photography: Sean Lee Styling: Weilun Hair: Christine from Jeric Hair Salon Grooming: Angel Gwee Model: Vladimir A / ave
Grey and white wash long-sleeve pullover ($245), black leather biker vest ($1,390), olive parka jacket ($455), blue distressed denim jeans ($265), silver lightning plate necklace ($115), gold bracelet with black adjustable strap ($95), lizard emblem ring ($95), black enamel ring ($145), silver and gold detachable ring ($155)
*Hedford Velocommute Bike in morris cream and chrome. Available at VANGUARD DESIGNS, 7 Rodyk Street, #01-30 Watermark Robertson Quay
SPORT B.
SPORT B. FEATURE
Reversible bomber jacket, $495
Purple knit neck warmer, $115
Sneakers, $165
SPORT B. leather bracelet, $85 Lightning leather bracelet, $85
*agnès b. SPORT B. is located at Isetan Scotts Shaw House Level 3 and Isetan Orchard Level 2
NEWS
1. SCULPTURAL WONDER American artist Alyson Shotz injects an ethereal quality to the new Louis Vuitton Maison in Kobe with a seven-foot sculpture made of lenses and mirrors that evokes water frozen in mid-air. Alyson joins a prestigious line-up of artists including James Turrell, Olafur Eliasson and Wen Jiabao who have been commissioned by LV for art installations. 25 Kyo-machi Chuo-ku Kobe
2. iTOD’S In line with ‘My Life Is In My Bag’ ad campaign, Tod’s launches its first iPad app, which allows fans to browse Tod’s merchandise virtually in 3-D, as well as snoop around the contents of six celebrities’ bags.
3. DOUBLE SCORE Emporio Armani opens its first stores in Vietnam and Mongolia. The former is located in Vincom Centre in Ho Chi Minh City and houses the first Emporio Armani Cafe in Asia-Pacific. Meantime, the Ulaanbaatar store in Central Tower Building at Sukhbaatar Square in Mongolia flaunts minimalist flair, a design signature of the brand’s global boutiques. Sukhbaatar Sq 2, Central Tower, Level 1 Maanbaatar City, Mongolia Vincom Center L1-24, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton Street, M-14, Ben Nghe Ward District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
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4. CHASING THE DRAGON Independent horological wunderkind DeWitt opens its first flagship store at Beijing’s prestigious Legendale Hotel. The esteemed brand renowned for its inventive movements and refined finishing seeks to capture a fast-evolving Chinese market demanding watches with niche appeal. G/F Shop 5 Legendale Hotel, 90-92 Jinbao, Beijing
5. YES WE CANALI Canali has opened a Singapore flagship store in Paragon Shopping Centre. The 76-year-old label known for its sophisticated contemporary menswear looks set to be the next go-to shop for savvy executives. #01-43/44 Paragon Shopping Centre
6. HOUR NEW PLACE The Hour Glass takes up residence at One Raffles Place ( #01-08/09), carrying all its most popular brands, such as Frederique Constant, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk. This is further bolstered by the opening of the retailer’s exclusive brand Hublot’s first stand-alone boutique in Singapore at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (#01-58).
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ANDRE ZIEHE
2xist.com b.h.g . i s e t a n . m e t r o . r o b i n s o n s . t a n g s . t a k a s h i m a y a
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10. GREEN HEART Since retiring his Indiana Jones fedora, Harrison Ford has been championing environmental causes by co-designing the Khaki Team Earth collection with watch brand Hamilton. Part of the proceeds from the watches’ sales will go towards funding the Team Earth project that promotes sustainable practices worldwide.
11. ARABIAN KNIGHT Malaysia’s foremost proponent of Kufi calligraphy, Shukor Yahya, collaborates with Caran d’Ache on limited edition pens bearing the unique geometrical script. Found in mosques and sacred books, Kufi is the world’s oldest existing Arabic script. The fountain or roller pen (each limited to 101 pieces) boasts a gold hexagonal body and nib.
12. FASHION AID Gucci has pledged US$1 million to UNICEF’s School for Africa programme to help construct new schools for children afflicted with HIV/AIDS. This is the sixth year that Gucci is working with UNICEF, having committed US$8 millon to the cause so far.
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13. LEATHER BOUND Hennessy’s X.O. Mathusalem cognac requires no fancy packaging but we are not about to resist this custom leather trunk by Berluti. Limited to 150 pieces, the box takes 70 hours to craft.
14. HIGH SEAS Porsche Design enlists Olympic sailing gold medalist Jochen Schumaan to develop a nautical-themed collection for Fall/Winter 2010. Highlights include the AC Bowman and AC Grinder sailor shoes equipped with shock-absorbing adiPRENE and sticky rubbers outsoles. This season, Porsche Design also presents two new ambassadors, Real Madrid coach Jose Mourinho and Grand Slam tennis legend Stefan Edberg.
15. WATCH OUT Hong Kong actor Daniel Wu collaborates with renowned photographer Keibun Miyamoto, who previously shot ads for Louis Vuitton, Apple and Nike, for an ad campaign for Seiko. The campaign depicts Daniel indulging in his favourite hobbies – kickboxing and jumping rope – to illustrate the Japanese brand’s vibrant collections.
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16. GAME ON Stella McCartney becomes the first fashion designer commissioned to work on a full wardrobe for an Olympic team. Sponsored by adidas, Team Great Britain will don her sportswear at the 2012 Games in London while supporters can buy her special tops. This marks Stella’s debut in menswear.
17. BOOK CLUB Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto will release his biography in October, titled Yohji Yamamoto – My Dear Bomb. The appellation infers the 67-year-old’s creative explosions from his debut on the Parisian runway in 1981 to his current collaboration with adidas in the Y-3 collection.
18. PLUS THREE Royal Selangor collaborated with Dick Lee, Eunice Olsen and David Tay to design an exclusive collection for the Singapore Heritage Society. Slated for an October launch, the Plush 125th Anniversary Limited Edition line consists of contemporary pewter accessories inspired by the local heritage. Each design is limited to 1,000 pieces.
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“STILL THE WORLD IS WONDROUS LARGE, -- SEVEN SEAS FROM MARGE TO MARGE, -AND IT HOLDS A VAST OF VARIOUS KINDS OF MAN; AND THE WILDEST DREAMS OF KEW ARE THE FACTS OF KHATMANDHU, AND THE CRIMES OF CLAPHAM CHASTE IN MARTABAN.” - RUDYARD KIPLING
muse
RUNWAY REPORT
On Guard Camouflage prints, brass buttons and smart epaulettes stand at attention as menswear salutes military style teXt: Kien KoH
PRADA BURBERRY PRORSUM military green canvas and leather tote
BURBERRY PRORSUM
BURBERRY PRORSUM
BALLY Tekaro military green tote
IZREEL
HERMES leather and silver dogtag
DIOR HOMME biege leather ankle-boot
PRADA camouflage print leather wallets
LOUIS VUITTON brown leather belt
SHANGHAI TANG washed patchwork denim jeans
RUNWAY REPORT
That ‘70s Show The exuberance and colours of The 1970s are updaTed for The 21sT cenTury sophisTicaTe
TOD’S brushed tan leather loafers
FRED PERRY Laurel Wreath knitted T-shirt
GUCCI PRADA
MARC JACOBS burgundy aviator tinted shades
GUCCI bag POLO RALPH LAUREN
THOMAS SABO brown stone silver ring
ETRO biege skinny leather belt with horseshoe buckle
HERMES
LOEWE tan leather tote bag ALFRED DUNHILL
RUNWAY REPORT
Contrast & Conquer IdIosyncratIc twIsts add punch to your ensemble. choIce pIcks Include jackets and coats wIth contrastIng patchwork or leather trIm LOUIS VUITTON cashmere scarf
ETRO fabric and leather lace-up shoe
KENZO
COMME DES GARCONS
HERMES grey printed silk tie
DRIES VAN NOTEN
PAUL & JOE brown zip jacket with contrast check print
FORTIS B-42 Black & Black
LOUIS VUITTON
MARC JACOBS optical frames with multi-coloured arms
ETRO tan woven leather skinny belt with contrasting orange trim
DRIES VAN NOTEN
RUNWAY REPORT
Hit The Road Hell’s Angels get tHe runwAy treAtment witH snug leAtHer jAckets And beAt-up boots. mAcHo swAgger not included LOUIS VUITTON aviator shades DSQUARED 2
BOSS BLACK
DIOR HOMME black leather bracelet
7 FOR ALL MANKIND tuxedo denim jeans
G-STAR cruiser jacket
RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
LOUIS VUITTON black leather boot
BOTTEGA VENETA
BOTTEGA VENETA dark brown leather gloves DSQUARED 2 leather wallet with metal chain
BOSS ORANGE
DOLCE & GABBANA black distressed leather bag
FJB-GC men's Folio.indd 1
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RUNWAY REPORT
Sportswear Illustrated Performance-driven sPortswear fabrics bestow functionality and street flair in Polished dress codes
D&G leather hi-top sneaker
EMPORIO ARMANI EMPORIO ARMANI
GUCCI white aviator shades
ZEGNA SPORT coat
CANALI EMPORIO ARMANI backpack
EMPORIO ARMANI bright yellow gloves
HERMES
G-STAR cobalt blue jersey track pants BOSS GREEN golf set
LOUIS VUITTON
JUNYA WATANABE D&G dark green nylon duffel bag
RUNWAY REPORT
Double Up Double-breasteD suits make an official comeback but with lean anD trim silhouettes ETRO printed pochette
THOMAS SABO barrel-shaped cufflinks
DOLCE & GABBANA GIORGIO ARMANI half-frame optical glasses
LOUIS VUITTON
BOSS BLACK
EMPORIO ARMANI suede gloves
GIORGIO ARMANI black leather belt
ALFRED DUNHILL
LOUIS VUITTON navy printed silk tie
ETRO lapel pins
EMPORIO ARMANI black leather billfold and wallets
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA GUCCI
BALLY Segusti tan leather brogues
D&G black leather briefcase
RUNWAY REPORT
GIVENCHY black leather cuffs
DIOR HOMME silver bracelet
DSQUARED 2
YVES SAINT LAURENT hardware necklace
Z ZEGNA
7 FOR ALL MANKIND geometric dagger suspender denim
THOMAS SABO brown stone cross pendant NICHOLAS ANDREA TARALIS
BALENCIAGA blue leather wallet
KRIS VAN ASSCHE black leather strap boots
DSQUARED 2 black leather messenger bag DSQUARED 2 bird’s claw necklace and ring
MenFolio_SHCM_Nov10.pdf
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2:18
PM
RUNWAY REPORT
Check Back ClassiC or eCleCtiC, CheCks show its versatility this season
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO brown checked scarf
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL
COMME DES GARCONS
ETRO PRADA checked fabric tote
GIORGIO ARMANI hat
Z ZEGNA
ETRO checked shirt
LOUIS VUITTON checked cashmere travel kit with matching eyemask
GIORGIO ARMANI gloves
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO checked fabric bag
RUNWAY REPORT
Double Collars Why stop at one When tWo is tWice as fun? Double collars aDD a Whimsical touch to classic suits anD shirts TRUE RELIGION denim jacket with hoodie PRADA SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
BALLY brown Tedro backpack tote
PRADA
BURBERRY
FIFTH AVENUE double-collar white shirt
EMPORIO ARMANI double-collar blazer
BALLY dark brown Seskin double-strap leather shoes
DIOR HOMME black leather belt
V IC T O R I N O X S W IS S A R M Y F E AT U R E
TAKE THE
PLUNGE!
THE SUN POLISHES THE OCEAN AND THE DEEP BLUE BECKONS. ALL THAT STANDS BETWEEN YOU AND FREEDOM IS A TIMEPIECE YOU CAN TRUST Emblematic of robustness and functionality, Victorinox Swiss Army invites us out to sea with the new Dive Master 500 collection. Made for divers and serious style hounds, the quartz Dive Master 500 Black Ice Chrono and the automatic Dive Master Black Ice Mecha feature unidirectional bezels, and are fortified by proprietary Black Ice PVD coating and 500m water resistance. Available in zesty colours, these virile watches guarantee a performance whether at sea or out on the street.
Dive Master 500 Black Ice Chrono • Swiss-made quartz chronograph movement (ETA 251.262) • 3mm stainless steel case with Black Ice PVD coating • Screw-in case back, screw-down chronograph pushers and crown • Available with orange, Victornox red and black dial with matching rubber strap
Dive Master 500 Black Ice Mechanical • Swiss-made mechanical self-winding movement (ETA 2829-A2) • 43mm stainless steel case with Black Ice Mechanical PVD coating • Screw-in exhibition case back with mineral crystal • Available with blue dial and matching rubber strap
Victorinox Swiss Army timepieces are available at ALL WATCHES Wisma Atria and Lucky Plaza, TANGS Orchard, OG Orchard Point, OG People’s Park and authorised watch retailers.
14819M6-Advertorial Ad.indd 1
9/16/10 5:48 PM
RUNWAY REPORT
Thick Of It Give the docile cardiGan a rest. thick knit sweaters keep one sartorially hot
EMPORIO ARMANI grey knit beanie HUBLOT King Power UNICO
D&G PRADA
HUGO BOSS
FENDI knitted cardigan
GIORGIO ARMANI dark green knitted gloves
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
EVISU Miura distressed faded denim jeans
JIL SANDER ETRO mustard yellow knitted fringed scarf DOLCE & GABBANA
Z ZEGNA
EMPORIO ARMANI
YVES SAINT LAURENT tan leather Y-buckle bracelet
HERMES brown suede desert shoe
RUNWAY REPORT
Long Time Voluminous capes and lengthy coats exemplify sharp winter wear
3.1 PHILLIP LIM GUCCI black optical frames
DIOR HOMME
HERMES printed grey scarf
GUCCI PRADA black leather loafers with oversized fringe detail
ALFRED DUNHILL Bladon black leather duffel bag
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO NICHOLAS ANDREA TARALIS
GUCCI PAUL SMITH
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO tan leather wallet
EMPORIO ARMANI aviator shades
DIOR HOMME black patent leather shoe
Trek & Field winter woods and ski-runs proVe fertile inspiration for actiVe looks featuring utilitarian outerwear and rugged footwear
DEWITT Blackstream chronograph in PVD-coated titanium
POLO RALPH LAUREN
JUNYA WATANABE
RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
THOMAS SABO silver horse pendant
BALLY Sanar grain leather ankle boot
PAUL SMITH TOD’S camel leather luggage
CHURCH’S leather-sheathed travel flasks BURBERRY PRORSUM shearling lined leather boots
TOD’S Gommino boots SHANGHAI TANG safari jacket
THE YOUNG MANHOOD Stirring styles! Exclusive giveaways! And lots and lots of champagne! Men’s Folio parties hard for our 13th anniversary… and survives to file this report TEXT: MAK KUM WENG PHOTOGRAPHY: ADAM MICHAEL
Adrian Tan and Tony Chow Mahmud Karim and Lydia Wong
(L-R) Tan Gek, Roslinda and Lucia Sng
Michelle Yow, Geraldine Wee
(L-R) Wong Kee Soon, Andrew Yap, JC, Patricia Yap and Donato
(L-R) Cindy Tan, Frances Low, Frederic Sai and Ricky Leong
(L-R) Sha’an Ng, Ashley Chiam and Eileen Tan
(L-R) Marc Motschmann, Simone Motschmann, Ulelina Kranwald and Kennth Marin
Pace Cinza and Marcello Pace
Lawrence Ng and Shirley Ler (L-R) Woon Tai Ho, John Erdos and Ray Lim
(L-R) Aileen Soh, Sheryl Tham, Lisa Chai, Lim Sok Chen, Shu Lee and Rosemarie Heng Jacky Ng and Agnes Goh
(L-R) Carol Lee, Cindy Sim, Victoria Zhuang, Constance Zhao, Rachel Lee and Monica Tan
(L-R) Kenne Cheong, Kenneth Chiang, Charmaine Khoo, Evander Choo and Sean Chua
Sharon Chia and Jeffrey Leong
Debbie Yip and Johan Tan
(L-R) Melody Chong, Stallone Benjamin, Felicia Lee
THE E
(L-R) Douglas Khee, Holly Grabarek, Chloe Grabarek and Shawn Ng
PEOPLE!
Aldo Martinez and Andrea Martinez
Lokies Khan and Candis
(L-R) Benjamin Chua, Darren Ho and Jonathan Wee
Patrick Normand
(L-R) Michelle Ang, Kien Koh and Ashley Thng
CYC
IC R E D FREI SA
ELECTRIFYING AND ECLECTIC were the operative words for the party’s runway presentation. CYC kicked off the show with sharp tailored suits in luxurious fabrics. Singapore designer Frederic Sai followed with a debut collection that focused on comfort and preppy styles. British labels Topman and Ben Sherman also showed off their latest. The former took to the stage in elegant autumn wear infused with a youthful attitude, while the latter interpreted Mod-inspired casualwear with denim patterns and textures. Alexander McQueen’s underwear line raised the temperature with an exotic and sensual collection replete with jungle motifs, while Tang + Co ended the show much drama and variety, marching out labels like Lad Musician and SOE that harnessed a wide range of influences from military chic to rock ‘n’ roll.
TOPMAN BEN SHE RMA N
THE
STYLES!
TANG + CO
R ANDE X E L N A UEE McQ
Nadia Huschke and Angie Yang Rachel Yee and Redzuan Abu Bakar
(L-R) Winnie Kok, Leong Hui Shan, Valencia Teo and Kien Koh
Janet Ow and Shujun Yak
(L-R) Auston Cai, Conelia Foo and Weizhi Lee
(L-R) Vincent Woo, Kenny Tan and Greg Yap
(L-R) Marcus Soh, Darius Zheng and Ashley Chiam
TH HE
SCENE! Redzuan Abu Bakar
Terence Chan
Romain Rodriguez and Min Mohd Ali
Sheryl Tham
Auston Cai
Jennisa Tham
Cecilia Tan
SEVEN SALUTATIONS Seven brands serve up seven limited editions for Men’s Folio 13th anniversary. These covetable pieces were given out to our supporters during the grand lucky draw
TEXT: JOSHUA YAP PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER/T2 PICTURES
U-BOAT CLASSICO 45MM MEN’S FOLIO LIMITED EDITION
We might be biased but U-Boat’s Classico watch never looked this good. This virile piece unique tips its hat to Men’s Folio’s 13th birthday with its ‘1’ and ‘3’ indexes in green, and the magazine’s name laser etched on a transparent case back.
PEDRO MEN’S FOLIO LIMITED EDITION SHOES
FABRIX X KEVIN SEAH Usually available on a made-to-order basis, these bespoke cases which fit a 13� Macbook Pro or A4 documents, are created by local case maker Fabrix in collaboration with designer Kevin Seah using noble English fabrics from Thomas Fisher.
ENGLISH HERITAGE FABRIC DOCUMENT AND LAPTOP CASES
MAGIS FROM XTRA CHAIR ONE SPECIAL EDITION
An intriguing work of art featuring an ergonomic cradle, the iconic Chair One by German designer Konstantin Grcic pledges its allegiance to Men’s Folio with a discreet engraving of the 13th anniversary logo on back of the seat.
MYS YST YS STIC VINTA TAGE TA AGE LULLABY SHADES
Don’t’ go looking for these shades by local eyewear specialist Mystic Vintage. Rocking a 1970s-inspired tortoiseshell frame with gold accents, it comes with custom crimson-tinted lenses made exclusively for this magazine.
JOHN ERDOS CHAMPAGNE STOOLS
John Erdos pops the bubbly for Men’s Folio with the debut of his Champagne stool. Shaped like a champagne cork and made from solid reclaimed teakwood in his workshop in Java, Indonesia, it is limited to 12 numbered editions.
PORTER
INTERNATIONAL DESIRE LIMITED EDITION SHOULDER BAG
A collector’s piece, this shoulder bag is the result of a collaboration between Porter International and Yoshida & Co. Distinguished by the infinity logo, it features the brand’s signature Milky mock leather material.
CHARACTER
ESCAPE ARTISTS
Dreams and fantasies are a reality for these engineers of faraway pleasures
CHARACTER
MIKE SIMPSON Founder, Simpson Marine TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: SAMSON POON
Mike
Simpson’s
idea of adventure is not for the average Lonely Planet aficionado. The daredevil recalls voyages between the ‘60s and ‘70s including getting shipwrecked in Martinique; discovering a village in the Andes; touring the drug cartel-filled streets of Colombia; and surviving the poisonous manchineel fruit in the Caribbean. These days, tanned and lean at 65, the Britishborn adrenaline junkie has turned in his maps for blueprints, opting to brokering and building “toys” for the ultra-rich and famous. Since 1984, his company Simpson Marine is at the heart of luxury yacht dealerships in Asia, distributing brands such as Azimut and Beneteau in six countries, including Singapore, Hong Kong and Malaysia. Despite the recent growth in competition, the uber-rich continue to park their millions with Mike for their dream yacht. “I have always lived by my word. If I promise to deliver, I will,” says the former British Army captain.
Even with costs of superyachts escalating to €80 million each, the buying continues unabated. “The Russians would buy several, while the Middle Easterners want it to be bigger and better than ‘the other guy’,” says Mike. The Hong Kong-based boating magnate also caters to outlandish wish lists, from diamond-encrusted taps and gold toilet roll holders to complementing the superyacht with submarines and mini-sea planes. Despite spending most of his time developing dream projects for others, Mike’s madcap love for the wild life still runs deep. When asked whether he has retired his ‘sense of wander’, he points to his office cabinet of vintage Supermarine Spitfire model planes. “I’ve spent 10 years rebuilding an actual one from its W WII remains, and I finally got it in the air,” he says, grinning at the thought.
“Travelling alone in Colombia is safer than being in New York’s Central Park”
CHARACTER
LOH LIK PENG Boutique Hotelier
TEXT: JOSHUA YAP PORTRAIT: MICHAEL TAN/WWW.MIKAIMAGES.COM
The man behind some of Singapore’s most eccentric boutique hotels ironically cannot afford to take a holiday. Having just launched three hotels across the globe, Loh Lik Peng hardly has time for a breather, let alone an extended timeout. “I tell myself to slow things down all the time, but when something great comes along, I can’t resist,” he says. By that, the lawyer-turned-hotelier is referring to his love affair with old buildings and his itch to morph them into funkier-than-thou hotels. “Old buildings excite me and get my blood going,” he says. “How I found them, on the other hand, is largely by accident.” Lik Peng’s happy coincidences include a derelict property in the red light district of Chinatown that he turned it into the hip Hotel 1929, which jump started his career in hospitality in 2003; and the old town hall in London and a 1920s trading office and warehouse in Shanghai that he transformed into Town Hall Hotel & Apartments and The Waterhouse at South Bund, both of which opened to critical acclaim earlier this year.
Second to Lik Peng’s weakness for heritage sites is his passion for design. He likes “beautiful and welldesigned things”, especially designer furniture, which he collects and adorns his hotels with. His latest venture, the 29-room Wanderlust Hotel in Little India is enlivened with Frank Gehry sofa, Trent Jansen stools made from reclaimed road signs, and vintage barber chairs. Lik Peng’s creative fervour is infectious. He has convinced Singapore’s award-winning creative agencies to dress up Wanderlust. Asylum, :phunk Studio, fFurious and DP Architects – all luminaries of the country’s design scene – have each designed one level of the four-storey hotel. “The whole idea is to leverage on their creative talents and have fun,” reasons the atypical business owner. And that pretty much sums up Lik Peng’s approach to his ventures. “Some hotels take themselves too seriously. We want our guests have fun and not worry about what to wear for dinner.”
With an eye for eccentric designs and love for old buildings, Loh Lik Peng hopes to put the fun back into boutique hotel stays
CHARACTER
MATTHEW LEE Illusionist
TEXT: ANDRE FROIS PORTRAIT: CAROLYN STROVER
“I’ll have
to fine you 50 cents for smoking indoors,” illusionist Matthew Lee jokes when I ask if I could smoke. I light up and press a coin into his open palm, but before I can take a puff, he relieves me of my cigarette. “Magic,” he says while extinguishing it against the palm of his hand, “is the simulation of an impossible act.” He briefly shows me the charred butt and then the same cigarette unscathed. ‘Close-up magician’ paints a portrait of a street performer with a drug-addled mug and droning, hypnotic monotone. Matthew pulverises this typecast. His stage persona is anything but that of a hyperactive weddings-and-birthdays harlequin, the kind that plies uninterested guests with unwanted tricks – the kind that Matthew cannot stand. “Most people who have never seen good magic don’t care for it. In my opinion, an appreciation of magic is essential to an individual’s well-being,” he insists. “It involves accepting that the limits we place on what is possible are not set in stone. My job is to free my audience’s minds from whatever mental box they have built for themselves. “What I always set out to do,” he continues, “is to make you ask questions – to see possibilities and ignite your imagination. That is why the illusions which we perform today become anecdotes in 20 years.”
This captivating entertainer is a computer engineering graduate who specialised in neurotransmitters and artificial intelligence. He recalls the fateful dash he made from his final exam to a magic store where he purchased his first magic set. Soon he was cutting his teeth opening for other performers at a nightclub, eventually landing a position at Channel U where he taught magic to television personalities. Recently, he won the People’s Choice award for Singapore Magic Circle 2010 competition. “I like to walk the fine line that divides the possible and the impossible, then s**t on it. Or least, pretend to. Is your 50 cents still with me?” Nope. I open up my supposedly empty right palm, and there it is. Did he sneak the coin back into my closed fist, or had the little rascal been hidden between my own fingers all this time? From bending spoons of solid steel to teleporting cards in and out of sealed wallets, all the magic Matthew does happens in his audiences’ own hands. If you ever have the fortune of bumping into him, give him your hand and let him bring you out of your own dreaded box, or at least sneak a shilling in it.
“My job is to free my audience’s minds from whatever mental box they have built for themselves”
CHARACTER
REBECCA WILKINSON
Eco-tourism & Cultural Entrepreneur TEXT: JASON KWONG PORTRAIT: SHAWN LOR / BLINK STUDIO
Tiger Rock
Resort harbours no pretentions of a five-star retreat, despite upscale trappings like bungalow residences, plush bed linens, infinity pool and impeccable hospitality. A jungle hideaway in Pulau Pangkor, it represents Malaysia’s gold-standard for eco-tourism; an untouched tropical paradise for travellers seeking solace. Owner Rebecca Wilkinson, however, sees Tiger Resort a bit differently – once a family home, it is also a personal tribute to her country’s naturalistic and cultural splendour. “Tiger Rock represents the way of life we wanted for our children,” says the 47-year-old, who founded the resort with her husband David in 1995 to “escape from the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur”. The couple plotted the landscape and houses – modelled after tea plantation quarters and Kenyan architecture – and engaged the local community to build the resort using locally sourced materials. When the Wilkinsons relocated to Penang in 1999, the couple relinquished the daily operations of Tiger Rock to their local staff. But moving to the city hasn’t diminished Rebecca’s role as a torchbearer of local culture.
A torchbearer of cultural heritage, Rebecca Wilkinson recreates the magic of olden Malaysia through nature and architecture restoration A Penang Heritage Trust council member, Rebecca remains deeply engaged in cultural preservation. A project she is renowned for is Penang’s Tropical Spice Garden, an abandoned rubber plantation that David and her transformed into an award-winning ecotourism destination. Her most recent project is China Tiger, a boutique guesthouse in George Town, which opened in July. Comprising two previously derelict shophouses, China Tiger lets guests experience old Penang through nostalgic architecture and decor. Housing two suites and two self-contained private apartments, both units have been lovingly restored – one of which a late 19th century Chinese merchant shophouse with large courtyards, and the other a 1940s swift house with handsome terrazzo exterior. “My passion lies in design that incorporates textures and patterns inspired by nature and tradition,” Rebecca explains. China Tiger will probably be a commercial success, flagged by travellers seeking exotic experiences. For Rebecca, however, who has made it her personal mission to recreate the magic and memories of home, China Tiger means more than that – it is another cultural jewel in a long line of many waiting to be unearthed.
CHARACTER
CHARACTER
REAL LOVE Issey Miyake’s creative director Dai Fujiwara espouses esoteric theories while staying grounded TEXT: KIEN KOH
While other
fashion designers plunder movies and music for inspiration, Dai Fujiwara gets his buzz from Mother Nature or a cup of coffee. Forget Mick Jaggeresque threads or film noir references, the creative director of Issey Miyake prefers to dig deeper and cast his net wider – previous collections have seen him seeking fabrics that “move like the wind” and rich palettes that evoke that of the Amazon jungle. “If we think like the others we can never develop anything new. We must have pride in what we do and maintain distinctiveness,” he says. After dalliances with kaleidoscopic Turkish prints in his Spring/Summer collection, Dai soaks up romantic street-side Parisian cafes for inspiration this Fall. “Starting my day at a café during winter has always been my little pleasure and I wanted to express the joy of this ritual in the clothes,” he explains.
The result is a languid autumnal collection anchored by espresso and caramel tones, as well as CREMA, a cotton and raised wool hybrid, conceived with the help of a café owner and proprietary to Issey Mikyake. “We made moulds of T-shirts and pants, poured in cream coffee-coloured liquid and observed how the bubbles float. We then replicated this look as a woven pattern. I want the fabric to express the warmth one feels when he mixes coffee and cream. I want the customers to feel the sensitivity of the textile not just by touch, but sight as well.” Dai is a dreamer, but one who is incredibly rooted in reality. While he believes that this era is “stimulating and exciting” for fashion and sees “elation in customers” as a measure of creative success, he says he is constantly challenged to “move the business forward” by predicting trends and being original. “Menswear is not as rich or varied as womenswear. As such, it is even more important to enrich it with value and spirit. As for Issey Miyake, we will always strive to make clothes that are timeless, sophisticated, functional and easyto-wear,” he says. To do so, Dai wants his team to seek “concrete inspirations” instead of simply referencing what’s new or predictable. In his world, it could mean anything from the ethereality of the way an object catches light, to grasping technical concepts like structural dynamics and fabrication. “It’s not an easy task,” he admits, “but I’m enjoying it.”
“We will always strive to make clothes that are timeless, sophisticated, functional and easy-to-wear”
PICTURE COURTESY OF ISSEY MIYAKE
+FACTOTUM
+ SOE +SOE
+LAD MUSICIAN
+GREYHOUND
+DIET BUTCHER SLIM SKIN
+DAVID
MAYER NAMAN
TICKET TO RIDE
PE AK TIME KEEP WARM, STAY COOL – THE TOP IS A HARSH AND LONELY PLACE TO BE Lounge, 1 Fusionopolis Way, Connexis. (Courtesy of JTC Corporation | Communications Division)
D&G
Maroon nylon jumpsuit, black and white wool knit scarf
D&G
Black wool blend pullover, black wool coat, yellow nylon jumpsuit, black wool scarf, black wool beanie, olive ski boots
D&G
Olive wool knit sweater, purple and grey wool knit hooded jacket with matching gloves, silver nylon jumpsuit, khaki ski boots
D&G
Grey cotton print T-shirt, grey wool vest, grey wool suit, black leather document bag, maroon nylon leg warmers, white ski boots
D&G
Grey cotton print T-shirt, grey fur and wool neck warmer, blue distressed denim jeans with fur trim
TE XT: Joshua Yap PHOTOGRAPHY: Sean Lee STYLING: Weilun HAIR: Christine from Jeric Hair Salon GROOMING: Angel Gwee MODEL : Gonzalo / Upfront
CYC
SPECIAL
In The
Mood for... CYC’S FALL/WINTER DRESS SHIRTS ARE A THEATRICAL SHOWCASE OF PRINTS, STRIPES AND LAYERED COLLARS
...LOVE
Channel the inner Casanova with a brown collar striped shirt with purple asymmetrical placket and discreet floral detail *Black pants, stylist’s own
...Drama Stand out from cookie-cutter drones with a dramatic three-layer collar on a black cotton striped shirt
...Classics Enliven a classic getup with a white cotton striped shirt with subtle front panel stitching and four-layer collar
...Nature Indulge in pleasing earth tones with a dark brown cotton shirt with three-layer collar
INSIGHT
ART OF WAR
Blue Carreon goes on a reconnaissance mission to investigate why dressing like a soldier is SOP this season
One could
argue that Prada and Ermano Scervino’s camouflage coats are paying homage to embattled soldiers in Afghanistan and Iraq, or that they are making a statement on the impasse on the war on terror. But at a risk of sounding shallow – and we’d much rather be honest – the epaulettes, brass buttons, officer overcoats and camouflage motifs marched out during numerous Fall/Winter 2010 runways are really an attempt by menswear to reclaim its machismo after the intrusion of laces and gender-bending silhouettes in recent seasons. The good thing is that the clothes, which are armed with handsome utilitarian details, look and perform much better for it. Military-inspired fashion first surfaced in the 1960s at the height of the Vietnam War. Then, antiwar protestors took to the streets of Washington, New York and San Francisco, and delivered a huge dose of sartorial irony in fatigue trousers, combat boots and berets while carrying placards that urged politicians to ‘Make Love Not War’. At Woodstock, The Grateful Dead, The Who, Joan Baez and Janis Joplin rocked the stage in similarly mangled interpretations of standard issue army fatigues, accenting them with hippie beads and flowers in their hair.
Burberry Prorsum
Salvatore Ferragamo
Since then, the military look has been adopted as a point of reference by the fashion community. In recent seasons, we have had Air Force-style overalls by Bottega Veneta, nautical stripes by Jean Paul Gaultier, and even Viking and Napoleonic influences from John Galliano and Dior Homme in Fall 2007 and Spring 2006, respectively. Burberry, which once made garments for the British Army, could not be more apropos this season. Extending the lineage to Burberry Prorsum, the diffusion line heaves with heavy olive coats and chunky boots. Elsewhere, Salvatore Ferragamo has a suede hunter green trench coat that could serve a CIA spy operative well, while aviator-style jackets can be found in the collections of Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton and Etro.
Menswear is reclaiming its machismo after the intrusion of laces and feminine silhouettes in past seasons
Ralph Lauren Louis Vuitton
Burberry Prorsum
Prada
Etro
Part of the appeal of military style is functionality and comfort. Thick coats, multiple pockets, sturdy leather boots, knapsacks, and worn-in T-shirts are on-trend items that owe much of their utilitarianism to knowledge gained from battlefields. Military references also reinforce the image of a hulking testosterone, lending the wearer the aura of machismo. Marlon Brandon parlayed this to great effect in The Wild One where he sported a black leather motorcycle jacket with epaulets. But in case one needs further convincing that manliness by way of fashion is indeed achievable, always remember that it’s true what people say – women do have a thing for men in uniforms.
INSIGHT
AMERICAN IDOLS Steve McQueen and Iggy Pop provide fashion fodder for Tommy Hilfiger’s silver jubilee TEXT: JASON KWONG
James Dean by Michael Zavros
Michael Zavros
Tommy Hilfiger
Heroes need
heroes too, Tommy Hilfiger reminds us. Now that a 25th anniversary celebration provides ample reason for reflection, the American designer gets in the mood with the launch of a coffee table book, an anniversary themed fashion show, and a heritage-focused collection that pays tribute to his childhood heroes. Famed for reinventing the preppy American style, Tommy aims to distil the allure of his personal heroes, including Steve McQueen, Clark Gable, and James Dean, for the limited edition Icon collection. Comprising 25 wardrobe essentials such as white Oxford shirt, varsity shawl cardigan, leather jacket, weekender bag, blazer, sweater, and denim jeans, the capsule collection steers clear of style plagiarism to encapsulate the individualism and dynamism of the personalities.
Painting of Icon pea coat by Michael Zavros
Ankle boots
Leather motorcycle jacket
Varsity shawl cardigan
Weekender bag
Barracuda jacket
“There’s really no formula. That’s the fun of it. All I
Blue blazer
White Oxford shirt
Tommy Hilfiger challenges himself by reinterpreting 25 wardrobe essentials for the Icon collection
can tell you is that it’s always possible to put a fresh spin on a timeless piece,” says the designer. He accentuates the collection with a variety of materials and details, from cardigan in mercerised wool and cashmere blend, to shirt seams and inner collars lined with signature redwhite-blue stripes. Tommy has also enlisted Australian photorealist artist Michael Zavros to create custom paintings for the ad campaign, depicting the personalities and apparel from the collection. “It was an opportunity to explore their resonance in the context of American pop culture and beyond,” says Michael. “So much of what American culture represents abroad includes these legendary faces and personas.” While heroes are probably best admired from afar – their mystique too immense and delicate to be subjected to close scrutiny – Tommy clearly believes otherwise. “Every so often, individuals burst onto the scene by force of sheer charisma and exert a tremendous influence on our culture. It is endlessly inspiring to me as a designer,” he reasons.
INSIGHT
SKIN DEEP How Bonia captures the design and style legacies of Italia TEXT: JASON KWONG
The ‘Made
in Italy’ mark can assuage doubts among luxury shoppers and justify hefty price tags. Italian craftsmanship, after all, whether in a Bottega Veneta valise or Bugatti roadster, stands for traditional craftsmanship of the highest order. This is not lost on Malaysian entrepreneur Chiang Sang Sem. Three years after setting up a leather goods manufacturing and wholesaling business in Singapore, he attended the Leather Trade fair in Bologna in 1977 to learn from the masters of the craft. Upon his return to Singapore, he registered Bonia, a brand dedicated to celebrating Italian leather craftsmanship. A year later, Bonia opened an office in Malaysia, where it is now a listed company. It recently opened another outpost in Shanghai in 2008.
A Bonia bag in production
IMAGES COURTESY OF BONIA
Geoffroy de Drouas
Bonia’s monogram luggage collection
Black leather shoulder bag
Manufactured mainly in Malaysia (its biggest plant is in Melaka), Bonia sources leather from the bi-annual Lineapelle leather trade fair in Bologna, and works with Italian designers. A recent collaborator is Gaetano de Franchesci, chief designer of Italian design firm Synergy Design Group, whom the brand commissioned to design its Spring/Summer 2010 collection. “We have a team of in-house designers but we also like to explore working with European designers to broaden our style sensibility,” says business development director Geoffroy de Drouas, who oversees business expansions in Asia, Middle East and Europe. For Fall/Winter 2010, Bonia presents a collection dubbed Mystique. The palette is muted, dominated by blacks and browns; the silhouettes are straightforward as seen in the range of briefcases, wallets and loafers. Details are subtle and tasteful, from leather trims on a canvas briefcase, to weave patterns on leather wallets. The ‘Made in Italy’ mark may be absent, but its spirit is captured in full.
Classic silhouettes dominate as exemplified by these leather shoes
Black leather wallet with perforated detail
INSIGHT
NO WHITE FLAGS Former Harajuku street fashion purveyor Surrender grows up but not out of touch
PICTURE COURTESY OF SURRENDER
TEXT & ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDRE FROIS
Most retail businesses get in a bind over consumer demographics. Not Surrender. The pioneering multi-label streetwear boutique might have started out catering to young skateboarders and alternative music lovers, but it isn’t about to be pigeonholed as a result. In fact, founders Samuel Hong and Earn Chen say Surrender addresses the street style needs of an entire generation, not a specific age group. Now that its customers have matured into working professionals, the half-decade-old Surrender hopes to meet their sartorial demands with more sophisticated threads while staying true to its antimainstream credo. Stocked at its new store in Raffles Hotel Arcade are more upscale and off-kilter labels for newly fangled corporate cats looking to accent their getup.
PICTURES COURTESY OF SURRENDER
Cire Trudon candles
Band Of Outsiders
Thom Browne
While one still finds slogan T-shirts from BBC/Ice Cream and chic rucksacks from Headporter that hark to the store’s early days, there is also a wide selection of fitted suits, wing-tips and corduroy boat shoes from the likes of Visvim, Thom Browne, Band Of Outsiders and Montcler Gamme Bleu. Earn describes Surrender’s current direction as “masculine” and “conventional”, and its choice of garments as “what a man would wear”. Most importantly, he cites individualism and longevity as key to Surrender’s modus operandi. “We carry what we like,” he says. “We want customers to be able to wear our clothes even after the season is over.” After all, Surrender is about never bending to trends or compromising one’s own style. SURRENDER Raffles Hotel Arcade #02-31 Tel: 6733 2130
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WELCOME BACK Even without the razzmatazz of its global Home Concept stores, Alfred Dunhill’s new MBS boutique is a venerated shrine for devotees TEXT: ALVIN WONG
ALFRED DUNHILL The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands #B1-108, Galleria Level Tel: 6688 7108
PICTURES COURTESY OF ALFRED DUNHILL
Boutique
ac c ommodation, s p a, inhouse barber and laundry service – Alfred Dunhill customers have been spoiled silly by the perks of its Home Concept stores. Whether in London, Tokyo, Shanghai, or Hong Kong where the ‘homes’ are located, Alfred Dunhill’s suggestion that it is more a way of life than a mere fashion label has been lapped up by those who have been capping their shopping with a bottle of 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild at its Hong Kong Home. So where does that leave the new Marina Bay Sands (MBS) boutique? While it is true that the bells and whistles of its Home Concept stores are conspicuously absent, the draw of the English label’s third outpost in Singapore cannot be underestimated, says Roberto Mancini, Alfred Dunhill’s Asia-Pacific managing director. “The general concept is similar to the Home stores,” says Roberto, pointing to the elegant oakdominated interior and exquisite Fall/Winter wares that line the shelves. More importantly, he reminds, it is the Alfred Dunhill spirit that will be its main draw. “The spectacular side of this store comes through with our service and product offerings,” he adds. Indeed, as this writer had experienced at Alfred Dunhill’s Paragon and Ngee Ann City boutiques, the brand’s amiable and knowledgeable staff makes the difference between a browse and a buy. “When you walk into our store and tell the staff that you like a certain product, our staff will show you 10 more things to like about the product,” explains Roberto. “We pride ourselves on making customers feel at home. It’s just that it’s a smaller home here at MBS.” And one that Alfred Dunhill fans will find reassuringly familiar.
MAKE YOUR MARK A new Marina Bay Sands (MBS) Dior boutique bearing exclusive store products give eagle-eyed loyalists plenty of reason for cheer TEXT: FEROUZ JEREMIAH
It takes
PICTURES COURTESY OF DIOR HOMME
a devotee to spot the nuances. From restrained tweaks in colour to slight variation of materials, Dior Homme’s limited editions commemorating the label’s MBS store opening are quietly different and clearly not meant for mass consumption. Prestige and distinction are the order of the day here. There are calfskin wallets and money clips, designed by creative director Kris Van Assche and capped at 50 pieces each, as well as the Chiffre Rouge T01 watch, limited to 100 pieces worldwide of which one is available at the store.
While Dior Homme’s store exclusives stem from the brand’s main collections, each is decorated for members-only cachet. The wallets and money clips, for instance, come with gold trim (as opposed to the usual silver) and galvanised gold finish, respectively. Elsewhere, the Chiffre Rouge T01 features a ‘satellite’ eight-hour display window uniquely ringed by red, white and black. The modifications are almost impossible to discern if one is not a hardcore Dior Homme fan. But then again, if one needs to rack his brains to spot the differences, maybe the MBS exclusives are not meant for him after all.
INSIGHT
STARDUST MEMORIES Artists and entertainers celebrate Royal Selangor’s 125th anniversary with a designer collection that showcases Malaysia’s rich cultural heritage TEXT: JASON KWONG
There are
two sides to every story – or in this case, eight, as Royal Selangor ropes in eight Malaysian creative vanguards to work on its new designer collection. Comprising works by fashion designers, artists and entertainment celebrities, the collection takes a meaningful, multifaceted look at Malaysian heritage through the eyes of the collaborators. “We work with personalities who have either put Malaysia on the world map or have contributed to the preservation of the country’s heritage. Through them, we hope to see and appreciate different perspectives on our heritage,” shares Royal Selangor general manager, Yong Yoon Li. The collection, created with help from Badan Warisan Malaysia (Malaysia Heritage Trust), also commemorates Royal Selangor’s 125th anniversary. Based on the theme ‘Learn from the past, live in the present and dream of the future’, each design is limited to 1,000 pieces and retails for RM160. Half of the proceeds is donated to Badan Warisan Malaysia. Men’s Folio gets a first-hand account of the design inspirations.
Clockwise from top left Melinda Looi (Fashion Designer), Rebecca Wilkinson (Artist), Asha Gill (Model/TV Host), Zang Toi (Fashion Designer), Laurence Loh (Creative Director), Khoon Hooi (Fashion Designer), Dato Sheila Majid (Singer) and Yusof Gajah (Artist)
“We work with personalities who have either put Malaysia on the world map or have contributed to the preservation of the country’s heritage. Through them, we hope to see and appreciate different perspectives on our heritage”
Dato Sheila Majid “The design is a modern take on the traditional cameo pendant. It features an image of a woman and incorporates fluid curves from the kerawang (Malay embroidery) commonly found on traditional Malay woodcarvings.”
Yusof Gajah “Through the image of an elephant decorated with patterns inspired by nature, I wanted to create an awareness of the destruction of the natural wildlife habitat.”
Melinda Looi “This is a tribute to the legends of Malaysian arts. The pendant features seamless twists, which represent integrity and passion, while brilliance and individuality are represented by a Swarovski crystal.”
Rebecca Wilkinson “I designed this pendant to look like a ‘happy’ fish and anemones. I also wanted the pendant to be versatile enough to be worn either on the wrist or around the waist.”
PICTURES COURTESY OF ROYAL SELANGOR
Khoon Hooi
Asha Gill “The pendant shows the tree of life. I like the idea that we are all leaves on a huge tree connected in a cosmic, spiritual and biological ways. My design Laurence Loh also echoes old amulets and I “The motifs are borrowed from the architecture of wanted it to look worn and soft.” my birthplace, Penang. The egg-and-dart design is found on classical cornices, while the Chinese geometrical patterns are reminiscent of timber lattice fanlights. The shape, which features a hole carved out of a solid piece of metal, could be interpreted as an oculus or a palette on which gifts are presented.”
“The design on the cube pendant is inspired by the weaving of mengkuang (screwpine leaves), an indigenous craft that has survived for generations. The suede tassel adds an elegant touch.”
Zang Toi “The orchid flower reminds me of my childhood growing up in Kelantan. I decided to merge the orchid with my affection for the opulent style of King Louis XV.”
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IT’S PERSONAL … Celebrity hairstylist Kim Robinson is an insatiable globetrotter. Despite living a self-professed “extraordinary life”, he still seeks his great escape TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: SAMSON POON
“Most of my friends share their private lives on social sites like Facebook, but I am the exact opposite. I cherish privacy; I rather go home, watch some television and eat a can of baked beans. Having a five-star dinner is lovely, but only if you have never had it – I have had them for many years. “I look for exceptional experiences in hotel stays, from the design to the attitude of the staff. I have stayed in boutique hotels that are ‘good from far, far from good’, including some in Singapore and Hong Kong. It’s not that I am blasé about travel but even the glamourous architecture of Middle Eastern hotels appears normal to me. What is the ultimate experience? Something money can’t buy, like the luxury of privacy. “For peace and quiet, I visit my hometown of Margaret River in Western Australia. My parents still live there in a Tuscany-style house on a seven-acre plot of land. I would take my parent’s car for a spin with the roof down for the fresh air, and stop to take pictures of animals and wild flowers. The irony is that I hated growing up on a farm, but now find myself enjoying this as I get older.”
“IF WE TOOK A HOLIDAY TOOK SOME TIME TO CELEBRATE JUST ONE DAY OUT OF LIFE IT WOULD BE, IT WOULD BE SO NICE” - MADONNA
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6. The Caten twins join the rock fraternity with a metal disc-studded
DSQUARED2 wristband. DSQUARED2 ION Orchard #01-24
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7. Sheathed in quilt and corduroy,
PEDRO’s soft sneakers are a fashionable comfort statement. PEDRO boutiques
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8. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’s wallets and money clips brim with solid colour contrasts. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Paragon Shopping Centre #01-36C
9. If you have a penchant for versatile dress shoes, ALESSANDRO’s leather and canvas lace-ups double up nicely for work and casual wear.
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Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Level 3, Men’s Shoes Department
10. Lose the tiger’s claw and jade pendant for a modern yet exotic black onyx tooth necklace by THOMAS SABO. THOMAS SABO ION Orchard #B1-26
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TIGHT TURNAROUND Here’s good news for weekend warriors whose triumphs in the battlefield are writ large on their faces TEXT: LI HAOHAN
DAVID LOH SURGERY 501 Orchard Road #05-16 Wheelock Place Tel: 6733 5300
PICTURE COURTESY OF DAVID LOH SURGERY
If you
have less than an hour in your hands and more imperfections than you can pass off as character lines, Ultherapy might be for you. The non-invasive aesthetic therapy combines ultrasound imaging and focused ultrasound energy to effectively lift the skin for immediately visible effects. Dr David Loh, who performs the therapy in Singapore, lauds the benefits of this new technology. “For a long time we have been using what were essentially variations of Thermage technology,” he says. “Ulthera represents a breakthrough because it is based on ultrasound technology, which allows for much greater precision.” Ulthera has a built-in ultrasound scan that targets a specific tissue layer beneath the skin’s surface – the same layer that is worked on and tightened in surgical and thread face lifts. Ulthera machine focuses ultrasound energy on this layer sending sound waves that causes vibration on the target tissue. This vibration produces heat of about 70°C and in turn triggers a natural reaction from the body to increase collagen supply in the affected area. “It is similar to the body’s way of naturally healing a wound,” Dr Loh explains. “Once collagen fibres are supplied to this particular layer, it stays tight and supple again.” The entire procedure generally takes no more than 30 minutes. The positive results are generally immediately visible, while the top layer of the skin remains completely unaffected. Slight discomfort, redness or slight bruising is very rare following the treatment. Clinical trials show that the procedure is effective in lifting, tightening and firming areas around the eyes, neck, cheeks and jaw line. The condition continues to improve and, depending on the patient’s skin type and lifestyle, remains apparent 10 months or even a year after the previous treatment.
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THE BODY SHOP Vitamin C Daily Moisturiser SPF 30 Boost your daily vitamin C intake with this moisturising sun block enriched with Amazonian camu camu berries and Brazil nut oil. Available at all THE BODY SHOP stores
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KIEHL’S Facial Fuel Age Combat A combination of Baobab tree and rice proteins, and sunflower and kiwi extracts works to maintain skin elasticity and reduce signs of ageing. This oil-free moisturiser now comes in a user-friendly pump dispenser. Available at all KIEHL’S stores
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THE CHOSEN ONE Matthew McConaughey personifies D&G’s The One Gentleman fragrance. The husband, father and Hollywood sex symbol shares some tips on manly elegance TEXT: WONG KEE SOON
How would you define a gentleman? A gentleman has a certain style, strength and grace. One spots a gentleman by the way he makes decisions, or the way he sits still and says nothing at all. And treating those around you with grace and respect is the most gentlemanly thing of all.
You are frequently spotted with board shorts and little else. How would you describe your sense of style? My style is about being practical and stylish. I like to wear comfortable clothes that I can move about freely in. I can go from a pair of board shorts on the beach to a sharp suit and a nice white shirt in the evening with ease.
How do you stay in shape? What are your thoughts about The One Gentleman fragrance? The scent is elegant, intimate and not at all ostentatious. The packaging looks great too.
I enjoy playing sports and taking care of myself – I like to feel healthy rather than bulk up for the sake of it. I like team sports as well as working out on my own. Basically, I get into shape by having fun.
What have you learnt about being in the public eye?
I’m focused on being good at what I do – being a good parent, a good partner and a good man. That’s pretty sexy to me. Matthew McConaughey
Never take yourself too seriously. And make sure to zip up your fly before leaving the house.
“The most masculine thing about a gentleman is his understated charm.”
The One Gentleman lures with a strong peppery note before unveiling hints of patchouli and vanilla
PICTURES COURTESY OF D&G FRAGRANCE
How do you feel about being referred to as a sex symbol?
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NOCTURNAL FRINGE
Foscarini’s new Diesel lamps mine the underbelly of Goths and garages TEXT: XAVIER XU
Fear is built into the human psyche. While some are afraid of sinister shadows that make their skin crawl, others embrace it, imagining themselves as conquerors of werewolves and vampires. Slicing its designer scythe like Merlin’s wand, Foscarini crafted Perf after the traditional North African perforated lamp. Here, the metallic diffuser is punctured with small holes that allow light to filter through for a hypnotic effect strangely akin to the menacing beak of a prehistoric pterodactyl. A similar flying monster link rears up in its Pet lamp; the sharp angular veins of the diffuser jutting insistently while the four paws of its arching stem are poised like the claws of a bird of prey.
PET
PERF
IMAGES COURTESY OF XTRA
TOOL
Even as Foscarini deviates from fiction and dips into fashion brand’s Diesel’s themes of tough brawn mechanics and roughshod garages for the Tool lamps in rubber, metal and cement that mimic foundry moulds and lathe wheels, they repackage the grit and grime of industrial archaeology with an insidious edge. Foscarini just knows we love danger – but only with the promise of safety offered by a soft glow in the darkness. SUCCESSFUL LIVING FROM DIESEL with FOSCARINI is available at XTRA Park Mall #01-01 / #02-01 Tel: 6336 0688 www.xtra.com.sg
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UGLY PRETTY THINGS British designer Matthew Hilton seeks beauty in the unconventional TEXT AND ART DIRECTION: RYAN WU PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL TAN / MIKA IMAGES
Matthew Hilton gives the impression of one who’s constantly up for a go at the status quo. “I often start a design with something that looks quite ugly,” he says. “If there is something really ugly in the initial concept, I find it a good omen, because it means there is something fresh about it.” To make such fearless statements, one has to be supremely confident or experienced. Matthew is both. In his 28-year career, he has designed products for Paul Smith; British retailer and manufacturer SCP; Italian bigwigs Driade, Sawaya & Moroni, Livit and Ycami; and Habitat. He struck out on his own in 2007 with his eponymous brand and hasn’t looked back since. Matthew Hilton Limited makes solid wood furniture, produced by Portuguese manufacturer De La Espada. While the tables and chairs evoke cracked earth and bare autumnal branches, they are also sculptural, organic, minimalist and full of quiet stateliness. In fact, one would be challenged to call them ‘ugly’.
Tapas chair
Fin dining chair
Colombo dining chair
Technical ingenuity meets sculptural sensuality in Matthew Hilton’s solid wood furniture Which designers and movements influence you?
My education stems from the Bauhaus movement and the Modernists. I was also impressed by the Memphis movement as it was so blatantly against everything else that everybody was doing at the time – it was like punk rock; a big kick up the arse for everybody.
What attracts you to wood? Wood is a fantastic material for furniture as it ages well. When forested properly it is also completely sustainable. Customers who buy wood furniture are paying for craftsmanship. It is economical for me to work with wood – we usually get the design right by the third prototype.
What are your main design considerations? I try to produce things that have spirit, personality and an aesthetic point of view. I challenge myself constantly, and will not produce things that people do not want or need.
Tell us about some designs that are of personal significance. There was a table I made in 1987 called the Antelope Table, which had a round top and three legs – two in cast metal and one in wood. Back then I thought that I was naive and inexperienced, but those early design elements are things I still see in my work now. Another is an armchair called Balzac has been curated in private collections and museums.
Fracture table
How has the recession impacted the design industry? I started my own business just as the recession began at the end of 2007. But I was not particularly affected as the works were well received. The recession changed people’s attitudes about what they bought. It also cut a lot of rubbish out of the industry. Designers are now more aware of the things they produce, so in a way it is a good thing.
How has technology changed the way you work? Completely. Everything used to be done on my laptop, but now I use an iPhone. Production-wise, I can also make things exactly the way I want with computer-controlled CNC milling machines. De La Espada has five such machines in its factory in Portugal. The work could be done by hand but it would take too long and cost too much. The mechanised process is faster and more precise.
Is your living space filled with your own furniture? Yes, I have my Fin and Tapas dining chairs and a prototype of the Light Extending Table, a bed and a sofa. If I am proud of them, I want them to be around me. MATTHEW HILTON LIMITED is available at DREAM INTERIORS 456 River Valley Road Tel: 6235 0220 www.dream-int.com Mars tables
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CRYSTAL CHARGE
Barovier&Toso, Baccarat, and Swarovski launched a sparkling realm of dreams and fantasies at the Milan Fair 2010 TEXT: ASHLEY LIN
The whimsical Marinaretti bedside lamp was designed in 1927 by Ercole Barovier for his young son
BAROVIER&TOSO BLU
The Blu installation at Superstudio Piu riveted our attention with a luminous meadow of macroscopic glass fronds, an aerial-floating display of glass anemones lit by LEDs, Gothic-type wall sconces, and an ostentatious ceiling-to-floor chandelier. The shimmering display of blue, cobalt and aquamarine installed by Paola Navone in a scenographic manner was ensconced in a dark maze of coarse wood and rusty iron to evoke the famous glassmaking region of Murano in the old days. And in a nod to the genius of Ercole Barovier, the firm reinterpreted the small bedside lamp designed by him in 1927 for his son Angelo. Named Marinaretti, the quirky sailor boy holding up the shade comes in Klein blue crystal and mouth-blown matt red crystal. Unfortunately, it is for the firm’s archives and not for sale. Available at MODLIVING 7 Magazine Road #01-01/02 Central Mall Tel: 6336 2286 www.modliving.com.sg
Barovier&Toso produced the loveliest shades of blue from the classical sconces and opulent chandeliers, to the avantgarde LED-lit fronds and anemones
Marcel Wanders’ United Forest of Dreams for Baccarat could well be a crystal version of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream
BACCARAT
UNITED FOREST OF DREAMS Under the auspices of Baccarat, Marcel Wanders crafted his version of a magical forest. The creations comprise a family of three slender reindeers (Spirits of the Woods) sporting cut and engraved crystal bud vases, candlesticks and votives for antlers; and small tabletop slabs of marble, crystal or metal with the same bud vases, candlesticks and votives mimicking trees and shrubs (Forest of Dreams). The designer, who garnered fame at the avant-garde Moooi by sticking a clown nose on his head as his leitmotif, has implanted his circus face on a crystal medallion in the middle of the stem of the l’ivress des bois collection of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne glasses. He has also stamped his iconic likeness into a red crystal stopper for the decanter. But as if in redemption of his sanity, the collection of four vases named Kings of the Forest are regal rather than satirical.
Nature has always inspired crystal makers like Rene Lalique and Jean Daum. Wanders steals a march by making the crystal bud vases, candlesticks and votives interchangeable in the Spirits of the Woods and Forest of Dreams collections so that the user can create their own ‘forest’
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SWAROVSKI
CRYSTAL PALACE Launched eight years ago as an annual incubator for cutting edge lighting that fuses art, design, science and technology and, of course, Swarovski crystals, the five designers commissioned for this year’s show held visitors spellbound with creations that ranged from a gigantic Zen-like globe and quaint ‘paper’ lanterns to a stardust trail garland and tall thin frigid icicles. Some of the best pieces presented at the Swarovski Crystal Palace exhibitions over the years will now be sold via the brand’s own lighting business which was launched after Swarovski acquired Schonbek, one of the largest chandelier manufacturers in North America.
French-born, Tokyo-based Gwenael Nicolas conceived the 10m-long crystal garland incorporating LED lighting programmed to jump-lit and set off ‘sparks’
Belgian architect Vincent van Duysen’s glow beam features a random assortment of crystals spread on resin that sandwiches a flat mirror wired with LED lighting. The designer says it is a poetic expression of water and ice
Swiss-born, San Francisco-based designer Yves Behar hooded a single LED-lit Swarovski crystal inside a paper lantern that replicates the facets of the crystal
Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka with his contemplative Stellar globe encrusted with Swarovski crystals and lit from within with LED
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ECLECTIC DREAMS
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LOVE-IN Inbreeding in the cult of Panerai TEXT: ALVIN WONG
There ought to be a ‘members only’ disclaimer stuck somewhere on Panerai’s latest Luminor watch. There are 300 pieces of it around but they have all already been accounted for – sold out within minutes after its availability was announced on www.paneristi.com, the brand’s online fan portal. A big-hearted ‘thank you’ to Panerisits (official moniker for Panerai fans), the Luminor for Panerisiti’s Anniversary is a watch created for – and by – the fans. Panerai took notes from the online community celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, and constructed a black beauty fortified by high-tech DLC coating and WWII styling. Melding the old and new, the 44mm watch must have been a dream come true for hardcore Panerisits, who rallied hard for the inclusion of classic Panerai signatures such as large numerals and index markers. Sadly, the watch will also remain a dream for those late for the party, although one might spot a piece resurfacing at a Bonhams auction in the not too distant future.
Limited to 300 pieces, the special edition Luminor was snapped up within minutes of its launch by passionate Paneristis
TIME
CRICKET CLUB
Vulcain’s CEO Bernard Fleury explains why we should junk electronic alarm watches for a Cricket timepiece TEXT: JOSHUA YAP
Bernard Fleury, Vulcain CEO
Personalised for Barack Obama, the Cricket Anniversary Heart continues the grand tradition of The President’s Watch started since 1953 with Harry Truman
“With over 152 years of watchmaking history, Vulcain’s magic lies in its ability to maintain its roots while innovating for the next generation”
TIME
From left: AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Dual Time in stainless steel with matching bracelet TUDOR Iconaut in stainless steel with matching bracelet TAG HEUER Grand Carrera Calibre 8 GMT Automatic Chronometer in steel with black leather strap
ANYTIME, ANYWHERE Home or away, rain or shine, globetrotters can stay on track with a trusty GMT watch TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER / T2 PICTURES STYLING: WEILUN
From left: LINDE WERDELIN 3-Timer in steel with black calfskin strap ICELINK Ambassador 6 Time Zone in 18K rose gold and titanium with black crocodile leather strap DEWITT Perpetual GMT Nebula in 18K rose gold with black crocodile leather strap
TIME
From left: FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Dual Time Carree in stainless steel with black leather strap VULCAIN Cricket Dual Time Aviator in stainless steel with brown leather strap OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronograph in steel with matching bracelet
DRIVE
ON THE PROWL
The Wildcat 300 STR might be the baddest ride on the road right now TEXT: NICK HALL
From the BMW X6 to the trusty Porsche Cayenne, big 4x4s now roam our cities like big game. But the truth about most of these asphalt-tuned beasts is that they are lifestyle choices for upgraders rather than real trail runners. The Wildcat 300 STR, however, is a different beast — it is a competition offroader with a licence plate. This car was spawned on rugged tracks; on the grueling continent-crossing Dakar Rally and other brutal endurance races through deserts, snow and ice. Previously manufactured by British engineering legend Bowler, the Land Rover-based Wildcat has won countless off-road trophies and reportedly squeezed squeals of delight from Top Gear’s Richard Hammond.
The rigidity of the space-frame construction gives a taught positive feel to the driver
QT Services, a British motorsport firm, has since taken over the task of propagating the Wildcat legacy. And it does so convincingly with the 300STR. The new ride’s shape is based loosely on the Land Rover Defender, but the similarity ends there. Today’s Wildcat is built around a space frame, a motorsport-sourced chassis that satisfies the FIA’s stringent safety standards. It is also designed to withstand haphazard landings after launching off dunes, so the rugged look is all real here. Its super strong spine in composite bodywork weighs next to nothing and the utilitarian, two-seat interior is clean and no nonsense. If one is prepared to pay, he can go for broke with a more luxurious interior with bespoke Motordrive seats, iPod connectivity and a top stereo system. The Wildcat, however, is all about the driving experience. The company uses a quarry near its base in the south of England to demonstrate the car’s skills and from the moment the 270bhp, four-liter V8 Rover engine roars into life, you know this is going to be special.
This car can accelerate faster than a Porsche Boxster on the road but that’s not the point. Here, the Wildcat is up against a minefield of ramps, hills, ruts and valleys that would rip mainstream SUVs to shreds – but it launches at the scenery and confidently bounds off each bump. QT’s managing director Dave Marsh produces a far more able display of off-road heroics than I can manage, skipping the car up impossible ascents, rocketing it into the air and landing confidently without letting up. The suspension comes with 30cm of travel to cope with the rugged ‘road’ we’re running on, keeping the wheels on the floor as it powers forward. In competition, that’s the difference between victory and defeat, but here it just makes everything much more fun.
IMAGES COURTESY OF QT WILDCAT
DRIVE
IMAGES COURTESY OF GARRY STUART
QT offers more extreme cars than this for pure competition, without the legal niceties and with space for tools and spare wheels. But as this is a road car, it’s fully compliant and can simply turn out the quarry and go to the local shops. So we do, and on the tarmac, the Wildcat transforms into a borderline race car. The low weight and power are part of the equation, as are its super stiff chassis and near racing spec suspension that prevent the Wildcat turning clumsy corners like bigger, heavier SUVs. The five-speed gearbox provides slick changes and constant acceleration, along with a transfer box for handling minute movements. While the Wildcat is no match for a Ferrari on the track, it is an imposing presence on public roads. Even on the tarmac, the Wildcat delivers pure entertainment with advanced four-wheel-drive to drive circles around supposedly quicker cars. It might be a little coarse for long motorway drives, but really, this is an impact car for the seriously rich to floor their friends’ jaws.
Everybody turns and stares as we roll through town, and I have a feeling it could roll up to a red carpet premiere just as easily as it could roll off the dunes in a desert race. The Wildcat STR 300 may have been created in the white heat of competition, but it’s future is much brighter than that. This is a car that can become a fashion accessory for the occasional off-roader – more so than the BMW X6s and Porsche Cayennes of this world. POWER:
270bhp
ENGINE (S):
4.0 litre Rover V8
TOP SPEED:
200kph
0 – 100KPH:
4.2 seconds
TECH
THE FUTURE IS NOW Nifty gadgets for that out-of-body 3D gaming experience TEXT: JASON KWONG
SENSATIONS
FEELS LIKE HOME A guide to the finest and soonto-open luxury service residences offering the trappings of five-star hotels and the comforts of home TEXT: BRIAN CHEONG & JASON KWONG
SINGAPORE
THE RESIDENCES AT W, SENTOSA COVE W stands out for its signature Whatever/Whenever service that grants travellers their most decadent wishes as long as they are legal and don’t defy the law of physics. One can expect the same bespoke treatments at the 228-unit The Residences, which features private lifts, pool terraces, tree-lined boulevards and an uninterrupted sea vista. Best of all, one never has to lift a finger for business or leisure pursuits, not when a W concierge is at his disposal. The Residences at W Singapore Sentosa Cove is scheduled to open in October 2012. www.wowresidences.com.sg
Artist impressions of The Residences At W, Sentosa Cove
FRASER PLACE
KUALA LUMPUR
When it comes to location, business travellers will find Fraser Place Kuala Lumpur hard to beat. Located in Jalan Perak at the heart of the financial district, the city’s own ‘Golden Triangle’, it is mere strides away from the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Suria KLCC and the Bukit Bintang shopping district. Fraser Place Kuala Lumpur is the latest property by awardwinning Frasers Hospitality, a Singapore company that boasts properties in Shenzhen, Seoul and London. The KL property incorporates quirky charm with sleek, contemporary design. Ornamental bird cage lamps greet guests at the lobby, while its 215 rooms, which span studio suites to fourbedroom penthouses, come with the latest mod-cons such as fully-equipped designer kitchens and Peter Thomas Roth bathroom amenities. Business folks will appreciate facilities like the business centre, gym, F&B outlets and a stunning infinity sky pool on the 18th floor. Rates start from $5,000++ per month. kualalumpur.frasershospitality.com
BANGKOK
THE RESIDENCES AT THE ST. REGIS If an extended stay in Bangkok is on the cards next year, check out The Residences at The St. Regis Bangkok. Located along Rajadamri Road (between Sukhumvit and Silom), the property is due to open in January 2011 and appears to be an ideal base for both business and leisure activities. It will boast 53 well-appointed units ranging from three-bedroom to duplex penthouses, with classic decor by Brennan Beer Gorman Monk Interiors from Australia. The deal-clincher may be its convenient access to the adjoining hotel’s famed luxurious services, including facials and massages at Signature Spa with complimentary champagne, Jacques Torres truffles and Kashwere towels. www.stregisbangkokresidences.com
The Residences at The St. Regis Bangkok at Rajadamri Road
SENSATIONS
HONG KONG
CHI 120 at Connaught Road, Sheung Wan
CHI RESIDENCES
Boasting four boutique properties in prime locations around Hong Kong (Sheung Wan, Yau Ma Tei and Jordan), CHI Residences is popular for its grand but intimate living spaces. Apartments in CHI 120 in Sheung Wan, the chain’s newest and most upscale property, comes with private balconies, stunning harbour views and an outdoor garden terrace. Designed by Dillon Garris and John Shostrom, who are based in Paris and Hong Kong respectively, CHI Residences comprise mainly studio and onebedroom units. Its upcoming property, CHI 130 - 136 in Wan Chai, scheduled to be completed in 2013, will be the chain’s most ambitious yet, featuring four different room types – studio, one-bedroom, twobedroom and duplex – as well as a swimming pool and a rooftop garden. Rates start from HK$13,400 (about $2,350) per month.
Artist impression of CHI 130 - 136 at Johnston Road, Wan Chai
www.chi-residences.com
CHI 393 at Shanghai Street, Yau Ma Tei
SAN FRANCISCO MILLENNIUM TOWER
The elegant Club Level
Millennium Tower combines upscale hotel and home comforts so impeccably that it was awarded ‘Deal of the Year’ by San Francisco Business Times a year after it opened in April 2009. Its 419 units comprise The City Residences, The Residences and The Grand Residences, each progressively more luxurious with a view of the San Francisco skyline, Azul Velverde kitchen tops, Valli&Valli doors and Studio Becker furniture. Gastronomic experiences and cultural immersion are also readily available, courtesy of RN74, a restaurant on the ground floor by Cairo-born Michelin-starred chef Michael Mina, and the in-house La Vie service, which organises film screenings, concerts and wine tasting. Rates start from US$4,000 (about $5,400) per month. www.millenniumtowersf.com
SCENE
RENOMA ‘The Story Of …’ exhibition, Paris French label Renoma brandished its rock ‘n’ roll roots with a showcase of vintage wardrobe creations for The Rolling Stones and a photography exhibition at its Parisian boutique WKS Tony Frank
Henri Cueco Caroline Loeb
Gerard Fusil and Maurice Renoma
PICTURES COURTESY OF RENOMA
Jean-Pierre Kalfon
AZIMUTH Back In Time Roulette Gala Baccarat tables, cheongsam-clad hostesses and watch giveaways – Azimuth Watch Company raised the stakes for watch parties at the Back In Time watch launch WKS Azimuth founders Christopher Long (far left) and Alvin Lye with Jeanne Lim
PICTURES COURTESY OF AZIMUTH WATCH COMPANY
(From left) Sugiharto Kusumadi, Eric Chua, Denis Ta, Alvin Lye, Christopher Long and Kenny Tang
Azimuth SP-1 Roulette
Joanne Loi with dancer
Kemmy Sim and Jonas Wulff Moller
(From left) Christopher Long, Gerard Lim and Sharine Ang
(From left) Kelvine Chong, Christopher Long, Kelvin Foo and Alvin Lye
SCENE
AUDEMARS PIGUET International Polo 2010 Gold Cup Over 800 guests headed to the Singapore Polo Club in June for the prestigious Gold Cup polo competition held under the auspices of Audemars Piguet WKS
(From left) Andrew della Casa, Audemars Piguet South-east Asia CEO Oliviero Bottinelli, and Marco Bardelli
Ignacio Figueras and Philip Mekelburg
Iqbal Jumabhoy
Presenting the trophy to Team Audemars Piguet Singapore Teo Ser Luck
THE ART OF …
LOSING ONESELF TEXT: LI HAOHAN
I don’t dress up for the rest of the world; I don’t even dress up for me. Ultimately what you see as my style comes from a higher being – my inner Superhero.
Just yesterday,
I was Nanook of the North. It was pouring heavily as I was getting dressed and I decided to wear my down parka with fur-lined hood. The rest of my ensemble comprised what I normally wear everyday but was thoughtfully coordinated to effect an outfit worthy of a stroll in the tundra. I had on a sturdy pair of Prada boots and a pair of leggings under my roomy shorts. I was debating between a rather large LV foulard and an Hermes losange scarf, but as I was already running late, I had to content myself with a Dunhill neckerchief. Not a week ago, I was the Count of Monte Cristo. I was in jeans, that’s true, but it was a slim pair from 7 for All Mankind that looked more like skintight leather hosen. I paired them with long boots from DKNY and a loose shirt with band collar from Etro. The effect was satisfyingly dashing. I casually draped a linen jacket from Zegna – it was too warm to put it on – and as I strode across Orchard Road with my jacket flapping in the breeze, I felt like I was off to settle the score with de Villefort. I have to admit that there are days when I like nothing more than be a hero. Unfortunately, very few opportunities for swashbuckling heroism present themselves in the office where fate has deposited me. Changing the printer’s toner or prying a stuck lift open with a trusty umbrella doesn’t make the grade so I have to improvise. To assume heroic guises, I have clothes and imagination at my disposal. Although I work for a fashion magazine, my aim at dressing up has little to do with trends of the day or current fashion. I aim for something more sublime and that is to dress up like a superhero. And I lose myself happily in the process. To date, I’ve channelled Jean Valjean, Count Robert de Montesquiou, the Marlboro Man and even Dirk Bogarde as Gustav von Aschenbach in Death in Venice. My possibilities, I have come to know, are endless.
I am not alone – if men will only openly admit – in this diversion. Not one of us dresses just to cover our privates or to keep safe from inclement weather. If that were the case, the fig leaf will still be in fashion. But we all have that person in our minds that we dress up as when we put on our trousers and shirts and jackets. And that image is our inner Superhero – the one that we indulge with all forms of apparel and accessories. He is the one who dictates the colour of our neckties, the length of our jeans, the breadth of our lapel. Even if we are conscripted to wear uniforms, we find him expressing himself in the way we button up our suits, or roll up our sleeves, or loosen up our necktie. Who is he but the image of our better selves, our actualised selves, the one that we constantly try to become. King Lear berated one of his daughters thus: Thou art a lady; If only to go warm were gorgeous, Why, nature needs not what thou gorgeous wear’st, Which scarcely keeps thee warm. But, for true need,Well, obviously, he didn’t get the memo either.
THE HEEREN FEATURE
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SPIRIT AWAY WITH DREAMS OF A WELL-DESERVED HOLIDAY IN SHARP PARISIAN PANACHE From top:
FOURSKINSTORE Dark navy paperboy beret ($19.90), navy cotton jacket ($119.90), white cotton shirt ($55.90) FLESH IMP Gold frame aviators ($29.90) JEAN PERRIE DESIGNA White and blue striped cotton pullover ($65.90) FLASH N SPLASH Khaki cotton zip-up sweater ($109), blue cotton towel ($65) QUEEN’S COUTURE Nudie raw denim jeans ($289) 77TH STREET Matt silver chain bracelet ($9.90) SWATCH YOS 441 in stainless steel case with brown leather strap ($279) CACTUS & PINE Silver studded rings ($3.90 each), gold square ring ($3.90) BILLABONG Silver metal water bottle ($29.90) 310 WOODLAND Red Wing iron ranger tan brown leather boots ($458), camouflage print duffle bag ($160) This page is brought to you by THE HEEREN DEFINE YOUR SELF *limited to the first 100 shoppers
TE XT: Wong Kee Soon PHOTOGRAPHY: Sean Lee STYLING : Weilun HAIR : Christine from Jeric Hair Salon GROOMING: Angel Gwee MODEL : Vladimir / ave
THE WELDING OF TIME K29
ø 53mm Chrono 3-Timezone - 8003
EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR
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