HARBORS March/April 2014 Issue by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre

Smoking Salmon

Girls Gone Fishing

Boating Gear Wildlife Adventures

Broken Islands, BC

Steep Island, BC USD $6.95 CAN $7.95

Border Customs

United States/Canada

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A PERFECT LANDING Seattle’s award-winning Elliott Bay Marina offers an urban oasis with two distinct culinary variations. Enjoy our park-like setting for lunch, dinner, or a weekend getaway on your boat – just 3 miles from downtown Seattle.

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STOP BY FOR A FREE CUP OF CHOWDER

he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow and stern thrusters for effortless handling, coupled with fuel-efficient diesel power to bring even remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. Our boats are designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have emerged as leading builders of family cruisers, and the favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide. Check out our family of owners at Tugnuts.com.

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Try a rich cup of our signature seafood chowder at either Maggie Bluffs or Palisade by visiting elliottbaymarina.net and downloading the coupon. Free 3 hour parking – or call the marina for free shuttle service from Kenmore’s Lake Union hub. Coming by boat? Ask about guest moorage. For details please contact our Harbormaster at 206.285.4817.

CutwaterBoats.com | 800.349.7198

elliottbaymarina.net | maggiebluffs.com | palisaderestaurant.com

H I G H L I N E R S B O A T S

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C E N T U R Y Abby Inpanbutr

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T h e C enter for Wood e n Boa t s is p le a se d t o p re se n t t h e s t or y of the Highlin e rs, t h e hist oric p owe r-schoone rs of S e a t t le’s longline fleet. Ma n y of t h e se wood e n ve sse ls we re b ui l t here, on the c ity’s wa t e r front , a n d a re st ill a ct ive ly fis hing a ft e r 100 ye a rs. This project has been made possible by

O P E N T H R O U G H F A L L 2 0 1 4 a t T H E C E N TE R FO R WO O D E N B OAT S 4

The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com Valley Street, Seattle, 98109

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Your weekend getaway starts here Seattle to over 45 spectacular Northwest destinations

BOATING SAFETY TIPS

photo by: Doug Wilson

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Always wear a properly fitted life jacket. Always operate your boat at a safe speed. Be sure to have the proper safety equipment on your boat and maintain it. When operating a boat never drink alcohol. Know the laws “rules of the water” for boat owners. Take a boating safety course. Learn to swim. Know how to rescue yourself and others. Be conscious of environmental issues: fueling, habitat damage, and wildlife harassment. Avoid making too much noise. Boat operators need to hear signals and warnings of danger. At all times be aware of your surroundings, including weather conditions, waves, currents, storms, fog, etc. Check the weather forecast for your destination. Plan clothing, equipment and supplies accordingly. Travel responsibly on designated waterways and launch your watercraft in designated areas. Comply with all signs and barriers. This includes speed limits, no-wake zones, and underwater obstructions. Make every effort to always go boating with a partner. Make sure you have your owner’s manual and registration on board in waterproof containers. Make sure you have enough fuel and oil for the entire trip. Always have a designated lookout to keep an eye out for other boaters, objects, and swimmers. Always carry a Coast Guard approved working fire extinguisher. Know your limitations. Apply sunscreen, drink lots of water, and watch your energy level. Know the distress signals and warning symbols. Always travel slowly in shallow waters and avoid boating in water less than 2.5 feet deep. High speeds near shorelines leads to large wakes which cause shoreline erosion. Do your part by leaving an area better than you found it, properly disposing fuel, oil and waste, avoiding the speed of evasive species and restoring degraded areas. Join a local boating enthusiast’s organization.

866-435-9524 • KenmoreAir.com San Juan Islands • Olympic Peninsula • Victoria, BC • Nanaimo, BC • Vancouver Island • Canadian Gulf Islands BC Inside Passage • Seattle Scenic Flight Tours • Ground Shuttle available to/from Sea-Tac Airport

Boater education prevents accidents and saves lives. Whether or not their state or province requires it, all boaters have a responsibility to learn about boat operation, communications, navigation, and life-saving techniques before taking to the water. Statistics bear out what logic suggests—those without boater education put themselves and others at risk. -American Boating Association | HARBORS

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volume 5 issue 2

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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPEMENT George V. Bivoino ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin EDITOR Susan Colby editor@harborsmagazine.com COPY EDITING Russ Young CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack George Bivoino Dr. Ed Brotak Susan Colby Betsy Crowfoot

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View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Island Webcam Boating & Adventure Blogging Navigation Maps Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas

PHOTO CREDITS VHFC pgs. 16-20 Betsy Crowfoot, pgs. 22-26 Dr. Ed Brotak pg. 28 AJ Hunt, pgs. 32-36 Michelle Mayer pgs. 44-48 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 50-54

Pacific Salmon Foundation of CA, pgs. 56-59 AJ Hunt, pgs. 62-65 Hotel Andra, pgs. 70-71 Chateau Victoria, pgs. 72-73 Channel Lodge, pgs 74-75

HARBORS Magazine is the proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State The Seattle Center for Wooden Boats HARBORS Magazine is the proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Washington State Seaplane Pilot’s Association PUBLISHED BY

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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher HARBORS is thrilled to share exciting new seaplane and boating adventures with our readers. We have a raft of great articles lined up for 2014 and look forward to hearing your feedback on our website, blog and Facebook page. HARBORS is now publishing bi-monthly, focusing on seaplane and boating destinations in the Pacific Northwest, with some fascinating stories from other regions as well. This issue features an article on the Vancouver Harbour Flight Center (VHFC), the new seaplane terminal in Vancouver, BC. We also have a feature called “Girls Gone Fishing,” sharing the special experience of how women, too, can enjoy the outdoor fun of sportfishing at Steep Island, BC. Readers will also learn about Pacific Northwest weather patterns, how to make great smoked salmon and the do’s and don’ts of crossing the US/Canadian border by plane or boat. Other articles include the interesting history behind one of our new partners, Northwest Seaplanes out of Seattle, along with an exciting wildlife adventure and three new seaplane and boating destinations in Seattle, La Conner and Vancouver. In 2014, HARBORS is proud to continue sponsoring The Seattle Center for Wooden Boats, The Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada and Long Live the Kings of Washington State. These organizations are vital to our natural resources and recreation in the Pacific Northwest. We encourage you to check out our advertisers in each issue. All our advertisers have an adventure to offer, whether it is a great destination, a valuable product or a great Northwest opportunity.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.

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2014 March/April

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Features Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre Vancouver’s New Seaplane Terminal

Girls Gone Fishing

Weather Patterns Along the Pacific Northwest Coast

Seaplane Pilot Profile

Destination Maps

Waterfront

Wildlife, History and Adventures

Fishing Again in Our Own Backyard

Steep Island Adventure A Weather Primer for Pilots and Boaters Shane Carlson, Northwest Seaplanes South Zone / North Zone Brown Island, San Juan Islands Broken Islands, BC

Renewing the Salish Sea Fishery

Smoking Pacific Northwest Salmon

Latest Trends in Boating Gear

Travel Savvy: Be Aware and Declare

Seaplane & Boating Destinations

A How-to Guide and Recipe Moisture Management

US/Canadian Customs

Seattle, WA • Victoria, BC • LaConner, WA

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Celebrate Vintage Mahogany Runabouts • Seaplanes • Cars • Hydros

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Notes From Our Readers HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club

Participating Businesses & Organizations Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

Orcas Suites

Abigail’s Hotel

States Inn & Ranch

Bear Mountain Westin

San Juan Classic Day Sailing

Bear Mountain Golf Resort

San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching

Brentwood Bay Lodge

San Juan Vineyards

Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort & Spa

Susie’s Mopeds

Hotel Grand Pacific

Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast

Fairholme Manor

Tucker House Bed and Breakfast

Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa

Waterworks Art Gallery

Prestige Oceanfront Resort

Olympic Peninsula

Prime Steakhouse & Lounge

Bella Italia Restaurant

Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge

George Washington Inn Gift Shop, PA Port Ludlow Resort

Sooke Harbour House

Quileute Oceanside Resort

Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel

Northern BC Islands

Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim

Dent Island Lodge

San Juan Islands

EhaArt, Pender Island

Orcas Island:

Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa

Doe Bay Resort & Retreats

Rendezvous Lodge

Orcas Island Golf Course

Seattle

San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel

Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio

Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa

Holiday Inn Seattle Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights

Friday Harbor House

Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal

Friday Harbor Marine

MarQueen Hotel

Harrison House Suites

Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center

Horseshu Guest Ranch

Trago Cocina

Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company

Attention Business Owners If you would like to sign your business up as a participating vendor for our travel club members, just send us an email at travel-club@harborsmagazine.com and tell us what amount of discount you would like to offer to our HABRORS Travel Club Members (10%, 15% or 20%) and we will add your business to our Participating Businesses and Organizations list.

Florida Reader I cannot tell you how much I enjoy your magazine. I live in South Florida but grew up in the Pacific Northwest. Harbors magazine with its beautifulphotography and informative articles take me on an exciting armchair journey. Keep up the good work! Planning to visit your beautiful corner of the world this summer! John F Sherwood Coconut Grove, Florida PNW Boater Thank you so much for publishing this wonderful magazine about the Pacific Northwest boating scene. We love to read about all the destinations and plan where we want to go next. We keep copies on the boat to share with our guests. Even the ads are nice to see what different destinations have to offer. We were so happy to see that

you are now publishing 6 times a year. We also sent a subscription to our sonin-law who has a boat in Bellingham, Washington. V. Thompson Anacortes, WA More Articles This is a great magazine, but we would like to see more articles on the Broughton’s and Queen Charlotte Strait area. There are so many great places to fish up there. Now that you are in Seaplanes out of Vancouver we hope to see more articles about these waters for boaters. We take our boat up every year and use the seaplanes for visits back to Vancouver, BC. We do enjoy the magazine. Thank you. Char Cummings Vancouver, BC

Lighthouse Fan Just wanted to drop you a quick note to let you know how much I enjoy your magazine. The beautiful photography draws me in and I can see myself enjoying those amazing places! I didn’t know there are so many wonderful destinations available within our reach. Thanks for showing us that the Pacific NW is a great place to live and enjoy! I also loved your article on Lighthouses of Puget Sound. I have always been captivated by lighthouses and I enjoyed getting to read about each one’s history. Sharing the information about visiting these and how to contact, was an extra bonus. Your attention to detail is appreciated. Kathy Creager Cle Elum, WA

To send a “Note From Our Readers” email: info@harborsmagazine.com

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Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre By Pat Awmack

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“Clear,” calls Rob, my SaltSpring Air pilot, as we drift slowly away from the dock. With a flick of his finger, he starts the engine and the propeller begins to spin. Skimming across the surface of the harbour in front of the Vancouver Convention Centre, we head west and before I know it, we’re in the air, soaring over the evergreen forests of Stanley Park, Lion’s Gate Bridge and beyond. We’ve just left the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre (VHFC) on our way to Salt Spring Island. Nothing beats the experience of flying past the towering Coastal Mountains, over large expanses of ocean (remember to watch for whales) and boreal forest to the nearby islands and elsewhere along the BC coast. The VHFC is the new (2011) float plane terminal, located in Coal Harbour in the center of downtown Vancouver. Built by a private consortium as part of the redevelopment of Coal Harbour, in preparation for Vancouver’s Winter Olympics in 2010, it is a state-of-the-art terminal that is open to use by everyone, including private plane owners. Although consultations began in 2004, it wasn’t until 2008 that Ledcor Industries Inc. and Harbour Navigation Ltd. began partnership discussions, eventually forming the VHFC Partnership. Construction began in 2010 and the VHFC was open for business on May 25, 2011. The $22 million facility was designed as a permanent base for Vancouver’s six float plane operators, which had been a fractured group until then. Some had been operating out of temporary structures around Coal Harbour and some had been operating out of the main airport located in Richmond, a suburb of Vancouver. HARBORS |

Aerial view of Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre. When asked to describe the VHFC, General Manager Marty Allard sums it up in one word: modern. Built on the seawall encircling Coal Harbour, immediately adjacent to the new Vancouver Convention Centre, the terminal is sleek and unobtrusive. A wall of floor-to-ceiling glass in the awardwinning passenger lounge captures the stunning views of nearby Stanley Park and the North Shore mountains. Passengers relax in the executive class lounge, watching the planes as they come and go while enjoying complimentary coffee, newspapers and WiFi. In a city that can sometimes be weighed down by low-hanging, oppressive rain clouds, the wall of glass offers the added benefit of maximizing exposure to any available daylight. There were originally two seaplane 18

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docks constructed, with approximately 18 seaplane slips. The docks were built using the SEAFLEX® mooring system, which not only has the ability to withstand hurricane-force winds and fluctuations in tides, but also meets international standards for environmental protection. The high-quality stainless steel moorings offer maximum protection against corrosion and are bolted directly into the seabed with no cables dragging through environmentally-sensitive habitats. The concretesurfaced docks are smooth, with few ramps and bridges and easy to traverse – a good thing, as the terminal offers a wheelchair transfer to the plane, for those with mobility issues. As my husband has a problem walking, I was interested in seeking out the best way of reaching the terminal from

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the street (it’s a bit of a hike, especially if carrying luggage). There’s no shortage of parking, with over 500 underground parking spaces. There are a couple of different drop-off spots if you’re arriving by taxi or other means. The easiest place for a drop-off is in front of Jack Poole Plaza; check out the Olympic Cauldron while you’re there. For those who wish to be dropped as close as possible to the terminal, enter the parking structure for the Vancouver Convention Centre and follow the signs to the Seaplane Terminal. It is steps from the drop-off there to a glass-sided elevator, which will carry you from street level, down two floors to the terminal. The VHFC opened to little fanfare, with only two of the float plane operators on board at that time - Seair

and Tofino Air. It took a while for the other companies to join them. Floatplanes carrying 300,000+ passengers a year fly in and out of this third busiest working harbour in Canada. The Carriers Incorporated in 1980, Seair Seaplanes had been serving BC’s south coast with 11 aircraft, offering charters as well as scheduled routes from their base in Richmond to Nanaimo and the Gulf Islands. According to Sherry Pottinger, Vancouver Harbour Base Manager for Seair, “The opening of VHFC allowed us the opportunity to offer a scheduled flight from downtown Vancouver to Departure Bay in Nanaimo. Using the Cessna 208 Caravan, and with a flight time of only 15 minutes, we have seen our passenger loads steadily increase.” Seair has also increased their scenic flightseeing options to include a variety of tours over glaciers and the Coastal Mountains. Tofino Air is a small, regional seaplane company, originally founded to service the villages, logging camps and

fishing industry on the west coast of Vancouver Island from Tofino. While offering mainly charter service, it does offer a seasonal scheduled service, during the summer, between Vancouver and Nanaimo or Gabriola Island, as well as flightseeing tours from Vancouver to pretty much anywhere on the coast. Their Vancouver base is closed over the winter months. With over 31 years in business and more than 50 aircraft, the Harbour Air Group consisting of Harbour Air Seaplanes, Westcoast Air and Whistler Air has become the largest all-seaplane companies in the world. They originally refused to move to the new terminal, citing high rent, additional fees for customers (a $9.50 terminal fee) and safety concerns. Eventually, after much controversy and an independent safety review, they made the decision to move. Harbour Air planes began flying out of VHFC in November 2012. The move cost them $2 million, as they built a dock for their exclusive use and made some improvements in

CANADIAN SERVICE AND WARRANTY PROVIDERS FOR NORDHAVEN AND SELENE

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the terminal space. “In peak season we have roughly 70 flights a day departing VHFC,” says Meredith Moll, Vice President of Sales and Marketing. 15 percent of their business is private charters and 85 percent scheduled flights and tours. They are the only carrier offering scheduled harbour-toharbour flights between Vancouver and provincial capital, Victoria. Prior to moving to the new facility in April 2013, SaltSpring Air, ‘The Islanders’ Airline’, operated out of a small base elsewhere in Coal Harbour. According to Philip Reece, partner in the airline, their passenger load fluctuates throughout the year; about 50 percent of their passengers are regular commuters and the other 50 percent are visitors – some from as far away as Australia - taking local trips. When asked how their business had changed since moving to the new terminal, Reece responded, “Our passenger load has been on a steady increase and the new terminal has certainly increased our visibility. Since moving to the new base we have found we work even closer with our fellow aviators operating from the same base.” The best part, according to Reece? “The pilots and crew appreciate the camaraderie at the docks; we are never short of a helping hand when things get busy.” This is a sentiment shared by GM Allard, “We love that this is an open access facility and that everyone gets along. There are no conflicts here.”

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HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine is a proud sponsor of the Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada

Girls Gone Fishing By Betsy Crowfoot

The author shows off her catch. 22

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Everyone is familiar with the axiom, ‘Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; teach him to catch fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.” But what happens when you teach a woman to fish ... ? Fishing is thrilling and fun in an indelible way. Most people can tell you the specifics of the first fish they caught: even if it was decades ago. But today women make up only about one-quarter of all anglers in North America. What keeps women from fishing more often? Having the right skills and equipment. Getting to the right place. The perceived ickiness of it. Our mission was to bust this myth (if you’ll pardon the pun!) so HARBORS Editor Susan Colby and I set out for the famed Campbell River, BC fishing grounds. Kenmore Air would deliver us directly from the Seattle to Steep Island Lodge, with a stop in Nanaimo to clear into Canada. The relaxed flight was an ideal transition from the bustle of the city to the wilderness. Soaring at just a few thousand feet, faces pressed to the windows, we zoned out over the

scenery and drone of the radial engine. Somewhere over the islands, my internet access fizzled. Eventually our pilot, Capt. Sam Hale, pointed out our destination: a sliver of green, rising from Discovery Passage. To the south, I was thrilled to see a small armada of fishing boats. “The fishing has been great!” Sam remarked, as he banked the de Havilland Otter on the final approach to the lodge. As we idled to the dock, two cheerful Labs rushed to meet us, trailed by Chantal Krantz, our host. We followed her up a wooden stairway and pebbled path, past the massive totem pole to our cabins – handsome and generous accommodations with king-size beds, desks, fireplaces and a wraparound deck with spectacular views, no matter which way you looked. Chantal already had lunch made: it would be one of many tasty and filling meals at the lodge. We sat outside, warmed by the sun, and enjoyed the menagerie of wildlife, including resident bald eagles Chantal called Frani and Leo, who swept down from their perch with a ‘whoosh!’ when she whis-

tled; and a harbor seal pup who curiously watched the show. To work off our final course of peach and blueberry tart, we endeavored a walk around the 20-some acre island. Splash, one of the dogs, set out on the trail and led us diligently around the isle; stopping at all the appropriate scenic overlooks and peering over her shoulder when we lagged. We had the island to ourselves during our stay, although during peak season (July and August) no doubt, all 22 beds would be full. Later we enjoyed an eco-tour with Mornay Vanzyl, who relayed the history of the area, culture, geography, and so on from the helm of a 32-foot aluminum Eaglecraft. I liked Mornay: he was informed and entertaining, laughed at our jokes, kept our wine glasses full and drove tenderly so they didn’t spill, despite small torrents and whirlpools of water that ripped past the hull. When we returned, Chantal has a surprise for us. She had happy hour set up at what she called, “my favorite spot in the world,” – a wooden deck that doubles as a helicopter landing

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pad on the west side of the island. The still-strong sun was toasty and we watched the spectacular sunset from this lofty site. I came to understand why Chantal is so proprietary about ‘her’ island. It is indeed a slice of paradise. After dinner, Chantal stayed on-island to ensure 24/7 service, although we just crashed in our cabins. The lodge was warm with modern amenities (built in 1989); open mid-May through October, they offer kayaking, hiking and wildlife-viewing excursions in addition to fishing. But it was the fishing we were there for and the next morning, we arose early to prepare for our 7:30am departure. Chantal briefed us on what to expect, then outfitted us with some oversized but cozy jackets. “There are clouds, but they’re too high for rain,” she advised. Not only was Chantal a 24

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fantastic chef, tour guide, purveyor of fishing licenses, trailblazer, den mother and eagle-whisperer, but an accurate weather forecaster too. Our guide pulled up in a 23-foot cruiser, sturdy and seaworthy enough for our adventure, small enough to be swift and maneuverable with plenty of deck space and seating – although we would rarely sit during our charter. Eiji “AG” Umemura is both fishing guide and Gyotaku artist, practicing the ancient craft of fish printing. Soft spoken, with a perpetual smile and easy laugh, he made us comfortable at once. We sped off to the fishing grounds, using GPS to locate the right spot – The Hump – an underwater feature off Campbell River. Here, near the confluence of the cold water from the north and warmer water of the south, ample plankton and baitfish guarantee abundant sport fish. In addition to

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several species of salmon; lingcod, red snapper and halibut can be found here as well. The rods were rigged with Hoochie rubber squid lures plus a flasher to catch the attention of the fish. A 15lb. lead downrigger was then attached, to carry the lure rapidly to the sea floor where the fish are – about 180 feet. That’s a heck of a long way if you have to reel up a fish and the weight; so the downrigger is designed to detach when a fish hits. Then a small motorized winch winds the weight back up to the deck, while the angler reels the fish in. But all this info is moot, because AG handled everything, while we admired the 360-degree scenic panorama. As he assembled the gear, AG pointed out that fishing has improved over recent years, thanks to clean water measures and less over-fishing. As if on cue, the poles began to jiggle – fish on!

Editor Susan Colby is getting a first hand experience fishing off Steep Island. A shimmery bounty of Coho and Chinook salmon. Steep Island Lodge is the sole occupant of the 20 acre island.

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Not 20 minutes passed without the cry “Fish on!” Happy Hour in the waning sun. Steep Island is smack dab in the famed Campbell River fishing grounds.

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He handed Susan and me each a rod and soon we were reeling, laughing, reeling, grunting, and reeling some more. The salmon were feisty, darting back and forth in an attempt to shake the hook (some did). But by 8:30am we had three big fish in our cooler. Once again, AG did all the dirty work. We would bring a fish alongside the boat where AG would net it and haul it in. With a firm bonk to the head, he’d dispatch the keepers (anything under-size or restricted was returned to the water pronto). Then he’d wipe the fish clean, place it gently in our hands, and position the boat so the lighting was just right for the requisite photo. We spent the better part of three hours this way – 20 minutes did not go by without a fish on either (or both) lines. In this manner, the ‘work’ of fishing was exhilarating, but not exhausting. Before we’d set off, Susan had declined to fish, saying she’d rather take photos. But with limits in place on certain species, I wanted a chance to bring home as much fish as possible. She relented. Thank goodness. Our subdued, eco-friendly Editor transformed into a blood-thirsty fisherwoman. “I didn’t think it would be so much fun!” she exclaimed between victims. After each one, she’d declare, “That’s it, no more’ ... until the line went taut and she leapt out of her seat as if on fire. At one point, vigorously reeling a fish in, AG ribbed her, ‘Breathe! Breathe!” They both doubled over in laughter, and when Susan finally landed it – a hefty 27-inch Chinook – he gave her a jolly ‘atta girl’ on the shoulder. Despite 25 years at the same vocation, AG’s passion for his work was still strong, and infectious. The time flew by. As our charter came to an end, we had nearly 100-lbs. of fish onboard. But the joint was ajumpin’ and we were reluctant to turn in. AG declared, “10 more minutes,” and suddenly the pole lurched. Susan started reeling but just as abruptly, it

went slack. The fish was gone, as well as the hook, line and sinker. We could only speculate about the monstrous salmon we’d lost: the proverbial ‘one that got away.’ Our arms were floppy with exhaustion as we pulled up the lines the final time. AG said his more frequent client is the corporate exec, who uses business as, “a good excuse,” to go fishing. But he has taken out couples, families and groups of all ages, “from 5 to 90,” adding, “It’s an ideal sport for a holiday. The Coho are small enough for kids to bring in, making it a fun and exciting vacation.” Most anglers come during peak season but the shoulder season has first-rate fishing as well, with less competition on the water, as we discovered. “Late May and June have really good Chinook fishing and in September you can also catch 10-lb. Pinks and Coho, which are easy but still exciting.” Chantal was ecstatic as we returned to the dock. We were her first anglers

of the season and came back with a bounty of fish – a fine omen for the Steep Island Lodge. We digitally documented our catch, then watched AG clean and prepare the fish for our impending flight home. We would leave Steep Island Lodge sated: with full bellies and cooler; stories to tell, and future fishing trips to plan.

Information For more information on Steep Island Lodge please visit www.steepisland.com. Book AG (Eiji) Umemura as your fishing guide via the Lodge or directly at www.agfish.net Editor’s note: Despite being reluctant to fish, once the first “fish on” was called, I was hooked, literally. I encourage everyone to give it a try, you just might like it.

Steal away

to a great Getaway…

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Weather Patterns Along the Pacific Northwest Coast By Dr. Ed Brotak

Flying and boating conditions in the Pacific Northwest can be challenging. The weather can be unpredictable but there are dynamics in play that are reliable. The weather of the Pacific Northwest is influenced by the Pacific Ocean, the high mountains to the east, the prevailing winds and especially the jet stream. Most of the year, winds are blowing onshore, so the Pacific Ocean has a major impact on the weather. In the summer, the air is cooled by the water, making summer temperatures mild. Occasionally, the winds shift to the east and bring in hot air from the interior. Temperatures can rise into the 90s (F) and even above 100 in the interior. However, these hot spells are usually short-lived. In the winter, the marine air is chilly but not excessively cold. The mountains to the east normally block frigid, Arctic air masses from getting into the region. Rarely, one will make it across the mountains and the ensuing Arctic Express leads to abnormally frigid, stormy weather. The jet stream is a major factor in the weather of the Pacific Northwest. 28

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In the winter, the jet stream moves south, often going right through the region. The jet stream is also the storm track and in winter, a progression of low-pressure systems and their associated fronts move in off the Pacific Ocean. The lows and fronts bring the frequent clouds and rain (and mountain snows). About two-thirds of the area’s annual precipitation occurs between October and March. The more powerful lows are often associated with strong winds and turbulent ocean conditions. For pilots, this means low ceilings, reduced visibilities as well as high winds. Boaters face those same winds and must also deal with rough seas. Small craft advisory conditions are frequent in the winter, with gale and storm warnings accompanying the stronger storms. The more sheltered areas like the Salish Sea and down into Puget Sound are less affected by the stronger winds in comparison to the actual Pacific coast. That’s not to say the weather is always bad in the winter. Yes, there are stretches when it rains every day. However, you can also get breaks and have

a few nice days in a row to get out and fly VFR conditions. One big influence in the winter is the El Nino/La Nina cycle. Although the actual El Nino/La Nina affects water temperatures in the tropical South Pacific Ocean, its effects on weather can be profound and widespread. During an El Nino, warm water adds energy to the atmosphere and literally pulls the jet stream further south, often over southern California. With the main storm track to the south, El Nino winters tend to be drier and warmer. La Ninas, on the other hand, “feed” a more northerly jet stream and this results in many storms and unsettled winter weather in the Pacific Northwest. In the summer, as the cold air retreats to the north, it takes the jet stream and the storms with it. The weather is then dominated by a sprawling high pressure area often centered near Hawaii. As is typical with high pressure, fair skies are the rule. VFR conditions for pilots and smooth sailing for the boater. Summer thunderstorms, which plague other parts of the country, are non-existent outside of the inland

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WEATHER TERMS for Pilots and Boaters

Atmospheric Stability - An indication of how easily a parcel of air is lifted. If the air is very stable it is difficult to make the parcel rise. If the air is very unstable the parcel may rise on its own once started. Ceiling - The height of the lowest layer of broken or overcast clouds. Cell - Convection in the form of a single updraft, downdraft, or updraft/downdraft couplet, typically seen as a vertical dome or tower as in a cumulus or towering cumulus cloud. A typical thunderstorm consists of several cells Chinook Wind - A strong downslope wind that causes the air to warm rapidly as a result of compressive heating; called a foehn wind in Europe. Combined Seas - The combined height of swell and wind waves. Depression - a region of low atmospheric pressure that is usually accompanied by low clouds and precipitation. Disturbance - a disruption of the atmosphere that usually refers to a low pressure area, cool air and inclement weather. Doppler Radar - A type of weather radar that determines whether atmospheric motion is toward or away from the radar. It determines the intensity of rainfall and uses the Doppler effect to measure the velocity of droplets in the atmosphere. Downstream - In the same direction as a stream or other flow, or toward the direction in which the flow is moving. Eddy - A small volume of air that behaves differently from the predominant flow of the layer in which it exists, seemingly having a life of its own. An example of such would be a tornado, which has its own distinct rotation, but is different than the large-scale flow of air surrounding the thunderstorm in which the tornado is born.

Fetch - The area in which ocean waves are generated by the wind. Also refers to the length of the fetch area, measured in the direction of the wind.

Squall Line - Any non-frontal line or narrow band of active thunderstorms. The term is usually used to describe solid or broken lines of strong or severe thunderstorms.

Front - The transition zone between two different air masses. The basic frontal types are cold fronts, warm fronts and occluded fronts.

Sustained Winds - The wind speed obtained by averaging the observed values over a one minute period.

Gale - Sustained wind speeds from 34 to 47 knots (39 to 54 mph).

Trade Winds - Persistent tropical winds that blow from the subtropical high pressure centers towards the equatorial low. They blow northeasterly in the Northern Hemisphere.

Indian Summer - An unseasonably warm period near the middle of autumn, usually following a substantial period of cool weather. Knot - A measure of speed. It is one nautical mile per hour (1.15 mph). A nautical mile is one minute of one degree of latitude.

Turbulence - Disrupted flow in the atmosphere that produces gusts and eddies. At times this can be violent and can cause the up and down movement of a plane.

Leeward - Situated away from the wind; downwind - opposite of windward

Updraft - A small-scale current of rising air. This is often associated with cumulus and cumulonimbus clouds.

Microburst - A strong localized downdraft from a thunderstorm with peak gusts lasting 2-5 minutes.

Upstream - Toward the source of the flow, or located in the area from which the flow is coming.

Nor’easter - A low-pressure disturbance forming along the South Atlantic coast and moving northeast along the Middle Atlantic and New England coasts to the Atlantic Provinces of Canada. It usually causes strong northeast winds with rain or snow. Also called a Coastal Storm.

Visibility - The greatest horizontal distance an observer can see and identify a prominent object.

Ozone - A form of oxygen in which the molecule is made of 3 atoms instead of the usual two. Ozone is usually found in the stratosphere, and responsible for filtering out much of the sun’s ultraviolet radiation. It is also a primary component of smog. Prevailing Wind - The direction from which the wind blows most frequently in any location. Profiler - An instrument designed to measure horizontal winds directly above its location, and thus measure the vertical wind profile. Profilers operate on the same principles as Doppler radar. Rain Shadow - The region on the lee side of a mountain or mountain range where the precipitation is noticeably less than on the windward side. Small Craft Advisory - A marine advisory for winds 25 to 33 knots (29 to 38 mph) or seas of 5 feet or more, that may cause hazardous conditions for operators of small vessels.

Wave - In meteorology any pattern identifiable on a weather map that has a cyclic pattern, or, a small cyclonic circulation in the early stages of development that moves along a cold front. Wave Crest - The highest point in a wave. Wave Trough - The lowest point in a wave. Wavelength - Physical distance of one period. Wind Advisory - Issued for sustained winds 31 to 39 mph for at least 1 hour or any gusts 46 to 57 mph. However, winds of this magnitude occurring over an area that frequently experiences such winds would not require the issuance a wind advisory. Windward - Upwind, or the direction from which the wind is blowing; the opposite of leeward. Zodiac - the position of the sun throughout a year as it appears to move through successive star groups or constellations. Zulu time - Same as UTC, Universal Coordinated Time. Is called Zulu because Z is often appended to the time to distinguish it from local time.

mountain ranges. Unlike the East Coast, the PNW isn’t subject to hurricanes in the summer and fall. Cooler water temperatures and the prevailing winds keep these storms thousands of miles to the south. Summer is a spectacular time to fly and go boating. Sunny, warm days with few clouds, little if any rain and light winds, which are great for power boaters, not so much for sailors. Everything starts to pick up in May. The air gets warmer and there are fewer and fewer cloudy, rainy days. By July and August, the weather is ideal. Highs often reach into the 70s and drop into the comfortable 50s at night. Seattle averages 10 hours of sunshine a day in July. Rain is infrequent with usually only five or six days of rain in July and August and the good weather will often hold through September. Winter weather comes blasting in late October, early November. During the winter months, there are often stretches of mild weather good for flying or boating. Snow is unusual at low elevations and rarely occurs along the actual coastline. Temperatures are usually moderate; in January, the coldest month, highs are normally in the 30s and 40s with lows in the 20s, even a little warmer right along the coast. Although seaplane travel is restricted somewhat during the winter, the carriers maintain scheduled flights but be prepared for weather-related delays and flight cancellations. A great source of weather information is the National Weather Service (NWS) website. Click on your location on the map and you’ll be connected to your local NWS office with the current weather conditions for your area and the latest forecasts. There are specific sections that deal with both aviation and marine weather in great detail. Canada has a similar setup at weather.gc.ca for the Environment Canada website and click on your location on their map. www.weather.gov www.weather.gc.ca

Courtesy National Weather Service 30

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Pilot Profile: Shane Carlson By Russ Young

To get a sense for Nothwest Seaplanes and Shane Carlson, you must visit the company’s reception/waiting area/office at Clayton Scott Field in Renton, Washington. In the shadows of factory-fresh Boeing 737s that are being prepared for their first flights, the converted hangar hosts a collection of artifacts and hardware that is as eclectic as Carlson and his family’s seaplane company: ranging from a 12-string guitar and an antique Mobil “Flying Red Horse” gas pump to a couch made from an early 1940s Dodge pickup and two meticulously detailed snowmobiles. There’s a small sailboat, a “wooden slough racer” powerboat, refinished wooden propellers and an assortment of antlers. It’s a casual, comfortable and fascinating place, which mirrors Carlson’s demeanor and personality. Born and raised in Seattle, Shane is a second-generation seaplane operator. His father Clyde, a former Air Force refrigeration mechanic, used his GI Bill benefits in 1968 to become a commercial pilot. 32

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Clyde began piloting for Seattle’s Lake Union Air Service, flying Cessna 206s to the River Inlet Resort in British Columbia. Today, the Carlson family – Shane’s mother helps keep the books – operates three different flying services: Renton-based Northwest Seaplanes; Chelan Seaplanes, which operates on central Washington’s Lake Chelan; and San Juan Airlines, a wheel-plane operator that serves Seattle, the San Juan Islands and British Columbia from Anacortes and Bellingham, Washington.

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Hakai Lodge

Shane – who eschews a title on his business cards, calling himself an “anti-title guy” – oversees the seaplane operations, while Clyde runs San Juan Airlines. The Carlsons have a highly regarded “boutique” seaplane-maintenance operation, working from an adjacent hangar at the airport in Renton. They not only work on Northwest Seaplanes’ four DeHavilland Beavers and another operated by Chelan Seaplanes, but service another two dozen or so privately owned seaplanes. The family also owns Hakai Lodge in British Columbia, which offers all-inclusive salmon and halibut fishing adventures. It’s a fly-in resort – not surprisingly, served by Northwest Seaplanes. The family business can trace its roots in part to that Canadian fishing resort. Clyde Carlson purchased Lake Union Air Service in 1980, making the Carlsons the pioneers of scheduled seaplane service from the Seattle lake to the San Juan Islands, then Victoria, BC. Lake Union Air provided charter The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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service for Hakai Lodge, which the family would come to own in 2009. By 1986, Lake Union Air Service was the largest scheduled seaplane company in the U.S., with a fleet of eight airplanes. Clyde sold the company in 1987, but a year later started Northwest Seaplanes. Among the early employees was 15-year-old Shane, who worked the docks, and who seized an early opportunity to start his own business when the fish-packing company that served many of the fishermen who flew on the family’s seaplanes proved to be less than diligent. Working with an equally young business partner, Shane said they went to a nearby bank, opened a business checking account and packed fish when they weren’t performing their other job responsibilities. He began his own flying career at 15, taking lessons from the legendary Northwest pilot Elmer Hansen while Shane was a student at Bishop Blanchet High School. Unable to solo before age 16, he set aside his flying ambitions to pursue the adolescent delights of high school, although he continued to work for the family business, which taught him lifelong lessons. “When you grow up in a family business, you learn about working hard. We really humped it – I would be in school while my parents were working, then I would get myself down to the lake and join them for the rest of the day,” said Shane. Once he graduated from high school, Shane had no “crystal clear, vivid vision” about what he wanted to do with is life. But he entered the Commercial Aviation program at Big Bend Community College in Moses Lake, Washington, where he earned an associates’ degree and his commercial pilot’s license. Like many kids in the Evergreen State, he then had to decide between Washington State University and Central Washington University. He decided upon the latter, where he 34

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Flying the majestic skies of British Columbia and Washington State. An active Northwest Seaplane’s South Lake Washington terminal .

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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earned a bachelor’s degree in business. Today, Shane describes himself as someone who is not “obsessed” with airplanes and aviation, choosing instead to describe the enjoyment he gains from interacting with the passengers of NW Seaplanes and Chelan Seaplanes. (Ready, willing and able to take the pilot’s seat himself, he says he flew “a ton” during 2013, but only “minimally” in 2012. He draws on a set of seasonal, but loyal, pilots. Some fly for airlines or private airplane owners; others have their own businesses, which allows for schedule flexibility.) Shane admits that the seasonal nature of the business can be challenging, if not taxing. Chelan Seaplanes operates for about five months of the year; Northwest Seaplanes and the Hakai Lodge business are intensely focused on the summer months. That leaves little time for some of his passions – fishing, waterskiing, jet skiing – in fact, Shane says he spends much of his summers in a car, driving around Washington state, serving the company’s operations in Anacortes, Renton and Lake Chelan. He does find time to visit his modest cabin in Stehekin, at 36

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the north end of Lake Chelan. Shane owns a condo in Seattle’s trendy South Lake Union neighborhood; he fears if he owned a house with a yard he would be “the guy out mowing at midnight, wearing a headlamp.” Among the more unique aspects of Northwest Seaplanes’ business is performing ash-scatterings. Shane says they flew more than 20 such charters during 2013, ranging from being sent the ashes by mail, to arranging elaborately choreographed family events. Northwest Seaplanes flies charters with dock-to-dock service, often picking up passengers at their homes on Seattle-area Lake Washington or Lake Sammamish. It’s the part of the business that has given Shane the opportunity to meet charter clients ranging from rock-and-rollers Jeff Lynne and Joe Walsh, to “The Deadliest Catch” fishing star Sig Hansen. And his interaction with the Pacific Northwest seaplane community has introduced him to fellow Beaver owners and pilots Kenny G and Harrison Ford. Northwest Seaplanes has more than 24 years of accident - and incident-free service – Shane knocks on a wooden

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coffee table as he says their record, although he attributes that to the experience and precision-oriented nature of the company and its pilots and mechanics. But at the end of the day, Shane Carlson says his business is all about his passengers, and the enjoyment that he gains from the relationships, often with fiercely loyal clients. The company’s Beavers are all equipped with headsets at all of the seats, allowing for interaction between the pilot and the passengers. Shane admits that that passengers regard the opportunity on a scale between “cool!’ and “I don’t want to talk,” and that some people fall asleep and snore into the microphones. Still, he can’t help but smile as he talks about taking passengers between Hakai Lodge and Renton. “On the way up you’re dealing with people who are really psyched” to go fishing and take in the beauty of the Pacific Northwest. On the trip south toward the Seattle area, the same people “are often snoozing with a smile on their face. And that’s what it’s all about.” The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Roche Speiden Harbor I. Airport

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Sky Pilot Mtn. 6,663 ft./2031m

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Boundary Bay Airport

Richmond

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Burrows I.

Sinclair I.

2,407 ft./734m

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Blakely I. Decatur I.

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2,407 ft./734m

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Mt. Constitution Eastsound

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South Zone Destination Map

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Port Alice Port Alice

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Cameron Lake Cameron Lake

Horne Lake Horne Lake

Cape Mudge

Quadra Island Quadra Island

Marina I.

Island d lan d Is Rea land s I d Rea

Maurelle Island Maurelle

Gillies Bay Gillies Bay

Mt. Van der Est 5,909 ft./1801m

Nanaimo Airport Nanaimo Airport

Ch k yn Hos Ch n ky Hos

Estero Peak Bute 5,459 ft./1664m

Island Redondo Island

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Stuart I.

Nanaimo Nanaimo

Nan oos Nan e Hrbr oos . eH rbr.

Qualicum Beach Qualicum Beach

Hornby I.

Parksville Parksville

Denman I.

Cape Lazo

Comox Blubber Bay Comox Cape Lazo Blubber Bay

Harwood I.

Twin Is.

Cortes Island Cortes Island

Savary I.

Hernando I. Savary I.

Mittlenatch I. Hernando I.

Mittlenatch I.

Cape Mudge

Okisollo

Cordero Lodge Cordero Lodge Mt. Van der Est Cor d 5,909 ft./1801m East Thurlow orde EastIsland Thurlow el ann Island Nodales Ch el ann Nodales Ch Sonora Island Sonora Okisollo Island

h ug oro ghb gh Lou orou gh b Lou

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Knight Inlet Lodge Knight Inlet Lodge

Sound

Lund Lund

o n S o u nd olati Des Minkn SI.ound o t ola i Des Mink I.

Raza I.

Rendezvous Lodge Raza I. Rendezvous Lodge

Lake

Goat Island Lake Island Goat

e ll Pow e ll Pow

t Eas t s a E on d e R n o d Re

a Tob a Tob

Galiano I. Galiano I.

Silva Bay

Princess Royal Reach Princess Royal Reach

Phantom Mtn.

Malibu Camp Malibu Camp

Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet Princess Chatterbox Falls Louisa Inlet

Mt. Tinniswood 8,550 ft./2606m Mt. Tinniswood 8,550 ft./2606m

Narr

Sechelt Sechelt

Pt. Grey

Inlet Burrard Inlet

Pt. Atkinson Burrard Pt. Grey

e I. Anvil

Anvil I.

Horseshoe Bay Horseshoe Bay

How eS we ound Sou Keats I. nd Keats I.Ho

Bowen Island Pt. Atkinson Bowen Island

Gibsons Gibsons

Gambier I. Gambier I.

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Salmon Inlet

Egmont 6,181 ft./1902m Phantom Mtn. West Coast Wilderness Lodge 6,181 ft./1902m Egmont West CoastI Wilderness Lodge ows Madeira Park Garden Bay Madeira Park

Strait Strait of of Georgia Georgia

N. & S. Thormanby Is. N. & S. Thormanby Is.

Secret Cove Secret Cove

d Hotham Hea Sound Foley d of Hotham ea ince H Sound Foley Pr of nce Pri

Pender Harbour Narrows Garden BayHarbour Pender

Nelson I. Sakinaw Lake SakinawLodge Lake Lodge

Nelson I.

Jerv is In le Hardy I. Jerv t is In let Hardy I.

Inle t Inle t

Toba Wildernest Toba Wildernest

Powell River Powell River

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Destinations from Nanaimo to Port Hardy

Haggard Cove Haggard Cove

i ern Alb i rn e Alb

Henderson Lake Henderson Lake

Eagle Nook Eagle Nook

Port Alberni Port Alberni

S pr oat La ke S pr oat La ke

Courtney Courtney

Oyster River Oyster River

Campbell River Airport Campbell River Airport

Lower Campbell Lk.

Campbell River Lower Campbell River Campbell Lk.

Blind Channel Blind Channel

ox Lake Com ox Lake Com

Elsie Lake Elsie Lake

The Red Pillar 6,673 ft./2034m

Upper Campbell Lk. Upper Campbell Lk.

Mt. Harmston 6,591Harmston ft./2009m Mt. 6,591 ft./2009m

Cen tra Cen tra

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Har icke dw I. icke I. W. T h W. T urlow Isl Hkusam Mtn. an hur 5,397 ft./1645m low I d Hkusam Mtn. sland 5,397 ft./1645m

Sayward Sayward

Port Neville Port Neville

Main Lk. Main Lk.

Island

nd sla nd I ad la West Re ad Is Penn Is. Heriot Bay Redondo West e R Hill I. April HeriotPoint Bay Penn Is. Island Redondo t April Point Hill I. Subtle Is. Island Eas t s Teake SubtleGorge Is. r ne A Ea Campbell River/ Cortes Teake rm Harbour Gorge r ne A Tyee Spit River/ Campbell Island Cortes r m Marina Harbour Dolphins Tyee SpitResort I. Island Marina Steep Island Dolphins Resort Refuge Cove I. Steep Island Refuge Cove Mansons Landing Mink Island Mansons Hollyhock Landing HollyhockTwin Is. Cortes Bay Mink Island Dock Prideaux Cortes Bay Discovery Islands Twin Is. Gov’t Seattle Yacht Club Gov’t Dock Haven Prideaux Discovery Islands Seattle Yacht Club & Desolation Hernando Haven I. Bliss Landing Hernando & Desolation I. Sound Bliss Landing

Quadra Island Quadra Island

Maurelle Island Maurelle Island

Hole in the Wall

S st ast Cionae Co e n hi sh unsSun

Pachena Pt.

Bamfield Bamfield

Barkley Barkley Sound Sound

Group Is. el Broken hann GroupiaIs.l Eagle C nnel I. r a Impe l Eagle Ch Tzartus ria nel s I. Trevor Chan Impe Tzartu

Clayoquot Wilderness Clayoquot Resort Wilderness Resort

l anne on Ch Loud nnel a h C on LoudBroken

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Amphitrite Pt.

achBeach Long Long Be

Ucluelet Ucluelet

Kenn e

I Tofino

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Golden Hinde 7,201 ft./2195m Golden Hinde 7,201 ft./2195m

Gold River Gold River

Victoria Peak 7,083 ft./2159m

Peak Victoria 7,083 ft./2159m

Elkhorn Mtn. 7,198 ft./2194m Mtn. Elkhorn 7,198 ft./2194m

5,440 ft./1658m

nzi Me es B. nzi es B.

Ka nis h Ka Bay nis hB ay

Nanaimo to Port Hardy

Dent Island Lodge Morgan’s Landing Dent Island Lodge Morgan’s Landing Sonora Island Big Bay Sonora Island Big Bay Lodge Sonora Resort Stuart Nanook Sonora Resort Island Stuart Nanook Lodge

StraSitrait iansapina p s la al d Ma M IdsalaInsdlan nnel annel a h TexaTedxaa I. i I. Ch e C ine abin etqi uet u Sab S q s Las La

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Jennis Bay Jennis Bay

Sey mou r Sey mou r

son Ali Soun son d Sou nd Inl et I n Inle let t Inle t

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Shelter Inlet

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6,106 ft./1861m

Critter Cove Critter Cove t Tlupana Inle

Boat Basin Boat Basin

Vargas I.

W Rugged Mtn. Wo Zeballos ft./1861m Rugged Mtn. Zeballos 6,106

Bligh I.

Vargas I.

Peel & Deer Is. Peel & Deer Is.

Hardy Bay

Deserters Group Is. Deserters Group Is.

Walker Group Is. Walker Group Is.

Bel Nu ize gen B Nu t Sou gen nd elize t So un d

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Sullivan Bay Numas I. Corsan Peak sge. Sullivan Bay le ls P N. Bro 6,345 Numas I. W Corsanft./1934m Peak ughto sge. P False Head Nimmo s n l l I. N. Bro We 6,345 ft./1934m ughto Greenway Sound False Head Bay Nimmo n I. Greenway Sound Bay Ma Bro u ton lcolm Bro ghton Port McNeill t SMtraailtco I. Shawl Bay ugh I. Eden I. ton Port McNeill on Strait lm I. Frank’s ShawlFishing Bay Lodge I. Eden I. Frank’s Fishing Lodge Sund’s Lodge Kingcome Inlet Baker I. Tribune Bonwick I. Sund’s Lodge Channel Kingcome Inlet Bay Kwatsi Baker I. Alert Bay Tribune Bonwick I. Channel Kwatsi Bay Blackfi sh Telegraph Cove Alert Bay Pierre’s at Echo Bay Lodge Blackfi sh Telegraph Cove Gilford Paddler’s Pierre’sInn at Echo Bay Lodge Hanson I. Island Gilford Paddler’s Inn Pacific Outback Hanson I. Ha rbl T Island e urn Resort Pacific Outback Ha down Thompson Snd rbl . Tur our I edo I. Resort no . wn Thompson Snd u . I . r Farewell Harbour Jo I. W Knight Inlet Adventures Laton Lodge Johnsto W. Cracro Farewell Harbour Lagoon CoveAdventures Knight Inlet Laton Lodge hnstone . Cracroft I. ft n LagoonCallCove Knigh Mt. Derby PorteHarvey I. t Inlet Kni 5,440 ft./1658m Mt. Derby Port Harvey ght Call Inlet Inle

Port Hardy PortAirport Hardy Airport

Hot Springs Shelter Inlet Cove Flores Hot Springs Cove Island Flores

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Nigei I. Nigei I.

Strange I. upana Inlet Bligh TI.l

Strange I.

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Nootka Nootka Sound Sound

Nootka Island Nootka Island

Esperanza Esperanza

Esperan

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Esperan za

Esp Espin ino osa sa I nle Inlet t

Kyuquot Kyuquot Fair Harbour Sound Fair Harbour Sound

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Port Hardy Port Hardy

Alice Alice Lake Lake ZebalZloesbIanllos Inlet let

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it teraSittra S t e t t t rlo rlo CehnaCha n e e e h gh ug ou Qu Qu Bro Br

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North Zone Destination Map

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Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties

Unique Island Living By Russ Young

Amazing Waterfront Home on Brown Island neighboring San Juan Island Have you ever looked across the water at a home along the shore of a small island and wondered what life there would be like? Joel, June and Henry Arnold have done more than just wonder about it – they live the experience, after making the decision to “push reset” on their lives after thriving in the highpaced corporate world of Silicon Valley. (Okay – that’s not exactly Henry’s story … he was in kindergarten at the time, but he was a major factor in his parents’ desire to slow down and live a more relaxed life, featuring “small town innocence.”) The Arnold’s waterfront home on Brown Island -- it’s a 70-acre private island just to the northeast of Friday Harbor, Washington – redefines “small town,” even in San Juan Islands’ terms. Joel Arnold estimates the full-time population of the island at around ten, vastly outnumbered by the deer, otters, mink and raccoons that reside there, not to mention their aquatic relatives. Many of the homes on Brown Island are relatively modest second/vacation homes, which is how the Arnold’s house began its life. However, Joel estimates it had been added-onto two or three times before they purchased it, at which point he and June began a “three-year ‘full gut’ remodel” of the house, upgrading the electrical, plumbing and heating systems, as well as the aesthetics. It’s the latest of the thirteen (?) – Joel seems to have lost count – homes that the Arnolds have remodeled. Their latest project is a farm on neighboring San Juan Island. They owned a second home on Lopez Island during their Silicone Valley, pre-Brown Island days.

A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. 44

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Spectacular windows offer a waterfront view from every room, creating an island lifestyle ambiance. Modern kitchen layout with views across to Friday Harbor. Today, their 3,665 square-foot, fourbedroom, three-bath home makes maximum use of large windows and skylights to connect not only with the views across the water to the town of Friday Harbor, but also to the mature Douglas Firs and native plantings the surround it. A deck facing town, along with a bulkhead and an attached 50-foot private dock provide the connection with the water and sunsets. But one can walk out the other side of house and immerse oneself in the quiet of a forest trail. Inside, there are two fireplaces, a professional kitchen with Viking appliances and two separate walk-in pantries, wide-plank cherry floors, Brazilian slate and clear-vertical-grain fir cabinets, doors and millwork. A large entry atrium located off the family room features a wall of floor-

to-ceiling windows, seemingly drawing the natural landscape inside the home. One of the things that make Brown Island so special is what Joel refers to as its rather unique “island of an island” status in the San Juans. It takes scant minutes by boat – the Arnolds have two Boston Whalers – to reach the relative (emphasis on the “relative”) hustle and bustle of San Juan Island and Friday Harbor. The island itself – which was originally developed as Friday Harbor Estates by a group of Seattle Yacht Club members – is home to only 60 one-acre waterfront lots, but only 30 homes. Brown Island’s interior is commonly-owned forested land with walking trails through the woods. Friday Harbor is serviced by Washington State ferries and scheduled Kenmore Air flights. Charter flights

are offered by Northwest Seaplanes and the island’s two full-time caretakers offer nautical shuttle service between Brown and its larger neighbor, San Juan. The Arnolds have not completely dropped out of the workaday world; they own a building-supply company on nearby Lopez Island. But June and Joel generally take turns commuting to their business – by Whaler during the summer, state ferry during the darker, stormier months. Henry, who grew up “running around the island like a cannibal,” according to his father, is now old enough to take the other family boat to school in Friday Harbor. Joel Arnold says there is “nowhere else like Brown Island, even in the San Juans.” As one admires the house, its views and the laid-back nature of “island of an island” living, it’s difficult – if not impossible – to disagree.

A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. 46

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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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ED HANDJA Personal Real Estate Corporation & SHELLEY MCKAY Your BC OCEANFRONT TEAM Specializing in Unique Coastal Real Estate in British Columbia

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Wildlife, History and Adventures On Broken Islands By Terry W. Sheely

We’re rocketing through a blur of seascapes and calendar photos riding a 21-foot bench seat in an open boat looking for wildlife, grinning with adventure. At the wheel and throttle in the back of the boat, eyes squinting into the light slap of a sea breeze, head on a perpetual swivel looking for feathers, spouts, fur and landmarks, Phil Lavoie is clearly loving his job. Phil is our in-boat naturalist, navigator, pilot, captain, lookout and historian on this afternoon marine safari. Thirty minutes ago, my wife Natalie and I were in front of the fireplace in the dining room at Eagle Nook Wil50

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derness Resort (www.eaglenook.com) which is perched on a land bridge between Jane and Vernon bays, inhaling bowls of thick chili, savoring the wee bit of pepper kick and rushing to meet Phil at the dock. The morning had already been a whirlwind of grins and guided salmon action producing our limits of chunky chinook now chilling in the lodge freezer. Now we’re off on the afternoon leg of the day’s adventures, carving a neat boat wake across quiet water, zipping past weather-sculpted rocks, down narrow channels, dodging reefs through a puzzle of more than 100 small wilderness islands.

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The scattered scenic islands, islets and winding waterways are called the Broken Group, a unique cluster of shattered topography at the head of Barkley Sound on the southwest coast of British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. The Brokens are between the small Vancouver Island towns of Bamfield and Ucluelet and include roughly 26,210 acres of protected wilderness islands inside Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It’s a marine refuge for sea life, birds and marine mammals and a favorite destination for kayakers, campers, photographers, birders and wildlife enthusiasts. The remarkable islands are barely The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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4½ miles from the docks at Eagle Nook and designating an open boat with a naturalist/skipper for wildlife cruises and marine safaris seemed a natural addition to the lodge’s 4-star attractions, says resort manager Glenn Westrup. The remote, upscale lodge is accessible only by boat or float plane and is also the closest access point for kayakers, boaters and wildlife enthusiasts who otherwise have to arrange passage through the islands on the MV Frances Barkley, a 200-passenger B.C. Ferry heritage vessel based in Port Alberni. Like most resort guests, it was a spontaneous decision for Natalie and I to take the wilderness cruise and we were relieved to find that along with a narrating local guide, Eagle Nook provides binoculars, rain gear, boots and warm float suits. The lodge is less than a 25-minute scenic boat ride up Barkley Sound from the Broken Group, close enough to accommodate four-hour sightseeing tours, and sometimes—weather depending – a lunch break on a beach at one of the designated provincial camping/picnic sites. The islands are a You never know what sights the fascinating mix of Broken Islands will offer, but there’s wildlife, scenery and always a wildlife treat, from bald early First Nation eagles in formation (Top) to a history. pod of humpback whales bubbleArchaeologists benetting and feeding on herring or lieve that Benson seals lazing on a reef at low tide. Island was inhabited (Opposite) The myriad of islands and 5,000 years ago by islets are loaded with early marine Tseshaht First Nation’s people and, and native history and landmarks. according to their tradition, is where the first Tseshaht man and woman were created. As we cruise between the rocks and along the channels Phil the historian points to islands with First Nation middens, village remnants, fortifications, fish traps and ancient community sites and tells us their tales of fishing, whaling and tribal fighting. Off George Island, Phil the ornithologist, hurls a rockfish carcass into 52

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the salt where it’s snatched into the sky by a white-headed eagle. A few minutes later, Phil the zoologist is explaining the sea lion rookery off the bow, which was less than a mile from where Phil the whale watcher hollered out loud when the young humpback crashed through the surface and into the air off Swiss Boy Island just yards away from the boat. “It’s a wilderness setting,” Glenn Westrup had told us, “you never know what you’ll see or when. It’s up to the animals. Last week we watched a doe and fawn on one of the islands. We have photos of a wolf that swam from one island to another, climbed out and shook itself off. “We might see black bears, cougars, otters, seals, porpoises, sea lions, eagles, whales (gray, humpback and orca), all kinds of birds like terns, har-

lequin ducks, cormorants, guillemots, auklets and a lot of others.” In the stunningly clear salt water, we can see anemones, sea stars, giant barnacles, crabs and swaying forests of kelp with silver explosions of small darting fish. Glenn has seen a lot in the Brokens but he didn’t see the eagle fight. It happens along a steep mountainside called simply, “the wall” where a pair of bald eagles perch in hemlocks and stare as we slide underneath. A large blow-downed conifer, now dead and needle-less, leans into the water, roots anchored to the mountainside, its upper two-thirds angling into the salt. A third eagle approaches out of the distance, another mature whiteheaded bird, glides past the blowdown, head-down looking for fish, and is immediately and violently attacked by

one of the perched pair. The attacker strikes like a spear, straight, fast and no nonsense. Talons out, its massive hook beak swinging, wings cupped, it nails the interloper in the back, swings high and dives at it again. The intruding eagle is off balance, falling out of the sky and vulnerable. It hits the water and dives under like a sea duck, avoiding the ripping talons. The eagle surfaces, rolls onto its back, defensive talons flashing at the diving attacker. The big bird veers off, sweeps back and strikes again. This time the eagle in the water dives, disappears beneath the surface and vanishes as completely as a seal. I’ve witnessed a lot of eagle squabbles, but I’ve never seen this before. The second eagle from the hemlock joins the first attacker, searching for the victim, swooping and screaming shrill

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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threats and when the diving interloper finally surfaces they both strike. The bedraggled victim bird flips onto its back, belly and talons up, wards off the next attack then rolls belly-down and wing flaps across the surface disappearing deep into the branches of the downed tree before the attackers can swoop in again. Too late, the attacking pair whirls and darts and scream. When we (Top) Eagle Nook leave, the huge birds are naturalist guide Phil perched on separate sides Lavoie and Natalie of the blowdown, whisexplore the islands, tling, watching, waiting. The bedraggled eagle is with an eye-out for hiding so deep inside the surprises. (Center) skeleton of a tree that we In the Brokens can’t see it. our nature safari It’s an adventure, Glenn seemed to flow told me, and no one ever from one calendar knows what they’ll see scene into the until they see it. next. (Bottom) The “But,” he quickly adds, islands attracts “I’m always delighted and several species of surprised. Nature does whales, which are not work to a timetable. often spotted from The islands are a very guide boats. unique place. Very different.” On the return trip, Phil steers into a ragged gap between rock and conifer islands and blunders into a gray whale feeding in a tiny kelp-filled bay. We glide to a stop and watch. The broad black back rises and sinks and rises again in rhythmic slow motion. Fronds of brown and green kelp stream off the whale’s back. It tolerates us unalarmed. Eventually it raises its tail and fluke slaps the surface, moving a few yards across the water. It blows a frothy stream of vapor and mist that catches the sun and glows silver against a background of dark green conifers. In an almost imperceptible slide, the gray slips under the surface. The sight of that huge tail, glistening, rounded and smooth, sliding away, slowly disappearing into the saltwater reflection of a hemlock-crowded island presents the perfect ending to a natural day. 54

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Fishing Again in Our Own Backyard: Renewing the Salish Sea Fishery By Elayne Sun

At the height of its activity, the recreational fishery in the Strait of Georgia was estimated to be worth $750 million a year … all supporting local communities. But between 1993 and 1995, the fishery literally disappeared. Scientists believe changes in the Salish Sea have significantly affected the abundance of Pacific salmon. The Salish Sea is the shared U.S. – Canadian body of water encompassing the Puget Sound, Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Strait of Georgia. Local communities surrounding the Salish Sea have witnessed the changes with recent catches of coho and Chinook 56

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at historic lows. Plus, residents have noticed many ecological changes such as loss of kelp beds, changes in herring spawning beaches and lack of bait balls, to name a few. While the impact has been felt by communities and there have been numerous studies, there has never been a comprehensive study or focused effort to restore a recreational fishery. That is, until now. In 2009, the Pacific Salmon Foundation designed a study that will be delivered over the next five years in partnership with U.S. partner Long Live the Kings in Seattle. The program will include ecosystem research and habitat restoration intended to restore Chinook, coho and steelhead in the Salish Sea. With the announcement on October 17th, 2013 of a grant for $5 million to deliver the Salish Sea Marine Survival Program, the Pacific Salmon Foundation and it’s U.S. delivery partner, Long Live the Kings received the funding kick-start it needed. This

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Where Your Donation Goes Do your part for the Salish Sea fishery. Text SALMON to 45678 and make a $10 donation. Donations will go directly to important components of the program, such as: State-of-the-art weather buoys, ocean gliders and other high-tech tools to collect biological samples needed to understand the dynamics of salmon abundance Monitoring forage fish spawning and their habitat; these are essential food sources for salmon; Vessels support and innovative acoustic tags to directly determine the survival of salmon in the sea; Field research to answer vexing questions about the impact of seals and other marine mammals on salmon; A dedicated study of the potential interaction of Coho salmon and salmon aquaculture in the northern Strait of Georgia and Johnstone Strait; Planting of eelgrass beds, which function as wildlife corridors for fish, birds and invertebrates; Documentation of the current state of knowledge about contaminants in the Strait of Georgia and Lower Fraser. 58

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will help restore coho and Chinook in the Salish Sea. The full commitment is for $20 million over five years for the joint U.S. - Canada effort. The Southern Boundary Restoration and Enhancement Fund, in association with the Pacific Salmon Commission, provided the initial contribution to the study. The Pacific Salmon Commission is the international body formed by the United States and Canada in 1985 to oversee implementation of the Pacific Salmon Treaty. Since 2004, the committee managing the Southern Endowment Fund has provided more than $29 million for salmon-related projects in British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. To date, the majority of these funds have been used to improve management of fisheries and address factors affecting the freshwater phase of Pacific salmon’s life cycle. Yet comparatively little has been dedicated to understand and improve Pacific salmon survival in saltwater. The new grant of $2.5 million, the Foundation’s portion of the grant, will provide one quarter of the Foundation’s fundraising goal of $10 million. The next few years will be critical as the Pacific Salmon Foundation works to raise the remaining $7.5 million needed to keep the study going and ensure it reaches successful completion. The Foundation will be approaching other foundations, businesses and government entities for additional support. But individuals who care for communities surrounding the Salish Sea also play a key role in reviving this oncegreat fishery. The more individuals who show their support, the stronger the case is to other entities who could be funding this initiative. Even small donations make a difference and donating takes less than a minute. The Foundation is urging individuals to do their part with a $10 donation by texting SALMON to 45678. Larger donations can be made through the Foundation’s secure online portal at psf.ca. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Smoking Pacific Northwest Salmon

Now You Are Ready To Smoke Your Own Salmon by Following the Steps Below:

In a stainless steel or plastic container, thoroughly mix the salt, brown sugar and crushed garlic cloves. The proper ratio is four cups of brown sugar, one cup of salt and 8 to 12 cloves of crushed garlic cloves. You can mix the dry brine cure by hand, but I prefer to use an electric mixer.

By George Bivoino

Here is what you will need to begin:

The Pacific Northwest is a mecca for salmon fishing, with locations along the Pacific coast, in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Puget Sound and San Juan Islands. I have fished all of these waters, enjoying their natural beauty and majestic scenery – and especially catching salmon. Salmon is good however you choose to prepare it; eat it fresh, freeze it or smoke it. Smoking is a popular Northwest method. This is one of my favorite salmon-smoking recipes. To make flavorful and moist smoked salmon, I recommend using fresh fish, as frozen salmon will not be as moist. If you do use frozen fish, it is essential that the salmon is not freezer-burned or your painstaking efforts will result in a mediocre product. Smoking salmon is a craft, so it is important that you have the right equipment and take special steps for success. Preparation and attention to detail are the keys to the quality of your final result. 62

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Salmon King, silver (coho), or sockeye are great salmon for smoking. Some people also like to smoke chum or pink salmon. Smoker Use a good smoker, preferably one that has temperature control, like a Cook Shack. Maintaining proper temperature control during the smoking process is crucial. However, many people do use smokers without a temperature control, like a Big Chief, and get great results; it just takes more and closer monitoring. Salt Using good salt is important. I prefer to use sea salt because it results in the best flavor. If you choose to use it, purchase it in bulk at PCC, Whole Foods or any store that carries bulk sea salt. Otherwise, use kosher salt. All other salts will result in a poor tasting result. Never use iodized salt! Brown sugar Any brand. Garlic cloves Crushed using a garlic press. Curing container An enameled, plastic or glass container to cure your salmon in prior to smoking it. Never use a metal container, unless it is enameled, a metal container will react with the salt and ruin the salmon. Wood chips (for the smoker) I recommend using apple and/ or alder wood chips for the best flavor. You can also use nut woods like pecan, but avoid mesquite as it will add a strong flavor masking the great flavor of the salmon. non-stick spray Any brand. Clean smoker racks preferably washed in a dishwasher.

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Preparing the salmon cure (dry-brine)

Depending on how much salmon you are smoking, you may need to make more batches of this dry cure. See Step 3 below to help you gauge the amount of the dry cure you will need.

2 3

Getting the salmon ready for dry-brine

Thoroughly rinse the salmon and pat it dry with a clean cloth towel.

Dry-brine curing the salmon

When dry-brine curing your salmon for smoking, you must surround each piece of the salmon with the dry cure. layer. Then place another ½-inch layer of the dry cure on the up-facing skin side of the second layer of salmon. If necessary, you can make a third layer of salmon by placing the salmon skin-side down on top of the previous layer and cover it with at least half an inch of the dry cure. Place a ½-inch layer of the dry cure on the bottom of the curing container. Place the first layer of salmon into the container, skin down, on the dry cure. Then place a ½-inch layer on top of the salmon flesh and in between each piece. If you need to make additional layers of salmon, place the next layer of salmon flesh side down on top of the dry cure, covering the first

King salmon, you may wish to add a bit more dry cure in between the layers. Once the salmon is completely covered in the dry cure, place it in the refrigerator. Thinner pieces of salmon need to cure between six-and-a-half and seven hours. For thicker pieces, like large King salmon, it will take eight-to-ten hours, depending on the thickness and width of the salmon pieces. After it is cured, you will notice that the dry cure has turned into brown liquid “goo” which is what it is supposed to do. As the salt cures the salmon, it draws out some moisture, dissolving the brown sugar.

Note: if you are using thicker pieces of

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Getting the cured salmon ready to smoke

Find a cool place on your kitchen counter or somewhere where you can air-dry the cured salmon, then cover the drying location with cloth towels, newspaper or paper towels. Next, spray the smoker racks with a nonstick spray and place them on top of the towels or newspaper. Carefully take each piece of salmon out of the cure, rinse it off well with fresh water, dry it thoroughly with a clean cloth towels, then place it skin-side down on the racks. Separate the different thicknesses on different rack, keeping the thicker salmon pieces on the lower shelves of the smoker. Allow the cured salmon to air-dry at 60 degrees or less for two to four hours, forming a lacquer/gelatinappearing layer on top.

Smoking the salmon

This is the most crucial step in the process. Smoking the fish too long or at too high of a temperature will cause the salmon to dry out. Using too many pans of wood chips or wood pucks will cause your salmon to have an overly strong smoke flavor. Refer to your smokerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manual to calculate temperature and smoking time. Maintaining this temperature for non-temperature-controlled smokers is more difficult and is affected by the outside temperature. Your smokerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manual should have suggestions on managing temperatures and smoking times. One suggestion is to hang an oven-temperature gauge on the top rack and check it often.

You have smoked your first salmon, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next? Additional recommendations If your pieces of salmon are the same thickness, rotate your salmon racks for even smoking. The lower racks are usually hotter than the upper racks. Have a designated test piece for tasting. This helps determine when the salmon is at your preferable smoked state and texture.

Smoking time recommendations You will need to adjust the smoking time depending on your personal texture preferences. Smoking the salmon too long will result in the fat oozing out of the fish, forming white spots on the surface, resulting in a dry texture. Record the time and temperature each time you smoke your salmon, making adjustments as needed to achieve your desired results.

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Packaging and storage Your smoked salmon will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. If you want to keep some of it for longer periods, it should be vacuum-sealed and kept for up to six months in the freezer.

Finally As with any recipe, you will get better and better each time you smoke your salmon. Trying different brines, curing times, smoking Flavor options The dry cure can be times and the amount of wood is all part of the amended with different spices, herbs or liquids adventure! Look for more great fish recipes in as you wish. For example, you can add a pinch future issues of HARBORS magazine or go of cayenne, dried dill or dried rosemary, or online to our website www.harborsmagazine. even a splash of maple syrup. If you choose to com for more ideas on preparing your next add syrup, make sure it is mixed thoroughly! catch! Please send us your own ideas for While smoking, brush teriyaki sauce or maple smoking salmon and other fish by going to syrup on the salmon for special flavoring. our website blog, or emailing us at recipes@ harborsmagazine.com

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Latest Trends in Boating Gear

The good ol’ days of boating were warm and fuzzy only in greeting cards and movies. In truth, cotton long johns got soggy and cold. Wearing foul weather gear was like being wrapped in cellophane and stuck in a sauna. Wool was itchy and disagreeable (except to moths). Hello “Techie 2010s.” It’s a new era in the development of outdoors wear, and boaters couldn’t be happier – with innovative clothing options from top to toe. “Moisture management” have been buzz words since GORE-TEX® was launched three dozen years ago. The GORE-TEX® fabric system allows moisture (aka sweat) to be transported (or wicked) away from the skin to the outer surface of the garment, where it can disperse. The bonus to this being that external sources of moisture (aka rain, snow, and splashy waves) stay out – as trapped moisture can cause discomfort, odor and chafing, and in extreme conditions, chilling, muscle fatigue, and even hypothermia. Moisture management gear is typi66

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cally constructed of synthetic materials, with the garments getting their attributes both from the fiber content and from shape of the extruded fiber, and from the characteristics of the knit or weave of the fabric. But recent advancements in this field have made for even greater performance in wicking and breathability, providing added comfort. Plus, these newer fiber and fabric combos are less prone to pilling and abrasion, resulting in more stylish and longer lasting clothes. In addition, these fibers can be embedded with anti-microbial and antistatic additives; ingrained with insect repellants; fabricated to help shield excess UV rays; or used in conjunction with textiles such as Nomex®, for flame resistance. So now, just like your smart phone, your nautical attire can serve a multitude of purposes, all at once. Case in point: West Marine’s Admiral long sleeve, rapid wicking tee has built-in odor control and UPF 30+ sun protection, in addition its comfortable style. For sea gals, the quick-dry mesh

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By Betsy Crowfoot

Captain Companion long sleeve tee, also has UPF 30+ sunscreen, in a relaxed yet stylish fit. Fabric and fiber technology isn’t the only place where advances are being made. Construction improvements, married with state of the art breathability, and wind and waterproof qualities, have teamed up to create Henri Lloyd’s “Ultimate Cruiser Jacket.” This heavyduty foul weather jacket seems to have been designed by someone who actually goes to sea. It has a high visibility hood that folds away with the flick of one hand (so you can maintain ‘one hand for the boat,’ or in the case of a seaplane, for the float) plus adjustable throat tabs and lined collar to keep the brine and brrrrr out, and more. These jackets are available at West Marine stores and online. For less robust conditions, Patagonia’s Leashless Jacket (in men’s and women’s sizes) can take you effortlessly from the mooring to the mountain. It features a GORE-TEX® shell for breathability and dryness, yet is lightweight and cut for maximum mobility.

What to look for down the pike? “Smart” textiles that adapt to fluctuations in the environment; and Thermos-like fabrics that reflect the sun when it’s hot, and absorb its warmth when the temperatures are low. The addition of moisture management traits to natural fibers such as cotton and merino wool, plus “cooling technology” treatments, which create a cool-to-the-touch sensation in fabrics. Also look for non-bulky, compressible fabrics that offer significant warmth for their weight and breathable ‘puffy’ garments for down-like coziness, utilizing internal padding with advanced moisture liberating properties. Polartec LLC, manufacturer of Polarfleece®, recently teamed up with the US Special Operations Forces (SOF) to create a synthetic insulation batting called Alpha®. With the demanding requirements of the SOF in mind, this insulation has been engineered with extraordinary warmth-to-weight ratio and inherent wind resistance. An added advantage for mariners: it dries quickly, and squishes into a compact little bundle for easy stowage when not in use. Now being rolled out at the retail level, look for Alpha® from Eddie Bauer, Patagonia and other performance-oriented brands. The dynamic Baby Boomer generation has spurred the rapid development of fibers, fabrics and construction – and the successive generations have been spoiled by it. Manufacturers of activewear and its components will no doubt continue to develop products to meet the growing demands of boating and outdoors enthusiasts. Watch for gear that is functional and versatile, spanning a variety of sports and activities and that provides greater comfort and freedom of movement. The gear is stylish and durable – so you no longer have to bundle up in a hodgepodge of gear that looks like you’re painting your garage. Like they sang in the Roaring 20s: here in the Techie 2010s, “Happy Days are Here Again.”

BE transported

Don’t just savor the scenery, devour it — as you ski, cycle, paddle, dance, dine, explore, and recharge yourself in the healthiest, happiest, most vibrant corner of Washington State. Find us between the mountains and the sea. One destination, many adventures. 800.487.2032 | bellingham.org

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Be Aware and Declare By Susan Colby

Cross Border Rules and Regs Crossing the U.S/Canadian border by boat or seaplane doesn’t need to be a traumatic experience if you do your homework before you go. The key is to know before you go so there are no surprises. Both countries have extensive information online to help. As is common with any government agency rules, requirements are “subject to change,” so always check the agency websites before starting your trip. The following information is geared towards U.S. and Canadian citizens. U.S. Department of State’s Visa Waiver Program allows visa-less entry into the United States for citizens of 36 countries and it’s recommended they contact the nearest U.S. or Canadian consular facility in their home country for more details.

Seaplanes Departing from the United States, all cross-border flight operators are subject to U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) regulations known collectively as the Advance Passenger Information System (APIS). When you make your reservation for your seaplane flight on a commercial carrier, be prepared to answer a lot of personal questions: Full legal name (including middle name) as it appears on your passport, date of birth, citizenship, country of residence, passport number and expiration date, and passport country of issue. In addition, for non-U.S. citizens entering the United States, additional information on “person status” is required — specifically, where the passengers are staying in 68

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the United States or connecting flight information if they are in transit to another country through the United States. All passengers are required to present a valid passport for air travel entering either country. And a passport means the good old-fashioned booklet. The new enhanced driver’s licenses are not valid for air travel, only for land and sea travel. U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry are required to have documents that comply with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI), most commonly a U.S. passport, a passport card, a trusted traveler card such as NEXUS, SENTRI or FAST, or an enhanced driver’s license. A couple of exceptions may apply to the passport rule, including U.S. military ID and travel orders and U.S. Merchant Mariner Document when traveling on official business. The latest rules and regulations are found here: http://www.getyouhome. gov/html/eng_map.html

Private Boats and Seaplanes Rules for entering Canada by private boat and seaplane are the same. Pilots arriving in Canada by private, company owned or charter aircraft carrying 15 people or less are required to call a Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) Telephone Reporting Centre (TRC) to obtain authorization to enter Canada. The skipper of any recreational boat carrying 29 people or less must go to a designated telephone reporting marine site and call the marine telephone reporting centre. All passengers must remain on the vessel; the skipper is the only person allowed

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to leave. Pilot and skipper are required to provide all the pertinent details to the border services officer. If all the information checks out, a report number is issued. CANPASS and NEXUS programs streamline the border clearance process for pre-approved, low-risk travelers into Canada and the United States. For complete information on entering and departing Canadian territory, visit the Canada Border Services Agency at www.cbsa.gc.ca

Checking in to the US There are several Alternative Inspection Systems Programs that speed up checking in, including the joint U.S.-Canadian NEXUS card, a preapproved I-68, SENTRI OR FAST card. The catch with these systems is that everyone on the vessel has to have the same pre-approved card to qualify for phone-in reporting. Normal reporting requires reporting to a Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Officer for inspection. According the regulations currently in place, “The master of the vessel reports their arrival at the nearest Customs facility or such other place as the Secretary may prescribe by regulations. These reports are tracked in the Pleasure Boat Reporting System. Pursuant to 8 CFR 235.1, an application to lawfully enter the United States must be made in person to a CBP officer at a U.S. port-of-entry when the port is open for inspection.” Until approved, all passengers may not leave the vessel. Pleasure Boat Requirements can be found here: www.cbp.gov

What’s Allowed Entering British Columbia, if you are 19 or older, you are allowed to import only one of the following amounts of alcoholic beverages free of duty and taxes: • 1.5 litres (53 imperial ounces) of wine; or a total of 1.14 litres (40 ounces) of alcoholic beverages; or up to 8.5 litres of beer or ale. • Generally, one liter of alcohol per person may be entered into the U.S. duty-free by travelers who are 21 or older. • You are allowed to bring all of the following amounts of tobacco into Canada free of duty and taxes: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 200 grams (7 ounces) of manufactured tobacco; and 200 tobacco sticks. The US limits include up to 100 cigars and 200 cigarettes in the $800 exemption from duty. Fruits and vegetables are also subject to numerous restrictions and must be declared entering either country. The admissible product list changes day to day, so best “Be Aware and Declare,” as the Canadians say. The U.S. has a long list of items to declare that includes weapons and ammunition, your pets and monetary items, including traveler’s checks. Items to Declare U.S. https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/1239 Items to Declare Canada http://www.beaware.gc.ca/english/toce.shtml

Other Points to Note Canada has some restrictions in place around what is considered inadmissible behavior and blots on one’s record, which include Driving Under the Influence (DUI) offences within the past 10 years. Immigration officials will ask, “Have you ever been convicted of a crime?” Answer truthfully – Canada and the U.S. share data so if a crime is noted and you fail to disclose, you can be barred from entry, removed from the boat and left behind as the rest of your crew sails over the horizon. U.S. and Canadian children 15 years old and younger are not required to have passports but need certified copies of their birth certificates when crossing the borders. All other nationalities must have valid passports. If a child is traveling with one parent or a guardian, immigration will want a consent letter from the other parent or the parents.

Complete puzzle on page 82

Travel Savvy:

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Destinations

Seaplane & Boating Hotel Andra, Seattle, WA

The lobby of the Hotel Andra offers a welcome respite from the blustery September afternoon. The cheery fire, rich maple bookcases, comfortable sofas and solid wood tables make me feel like I’ve walked into a private living room. Little do I know when I arrive, this is indeed the name of the main lobby, with the upper lobby known as the “Living Room Loft”. The Loft is perfect for casual meetings, quiet reading or a drink with friends. This casually elegant boutique hotel exudes a sophisticated - but relaxed - Pacific Northwest ambiance, with 70

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By Pat Awmack

plenty of water, wood and stone elements throughout the hotel. And what could be more à propos in this particular corner of the country than an umbrella stand by the front door with complimentary loaner umbrellas? Located in Belltown, an area of the city that has been transformed from a semi-industrial arts district to a neighborhood of trendy restaurants, boutiques, nightclubs and residential towers, the hotel is ideally located for anyone visiting Seattle. Within walking distance of many tourist attractions, such as Pike Place Market and

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the Space Needle, it is also mere blocks to shopping and the downtown core for those in town on business. Originally opened in 1926 as efficiency apartments, the building became a temporary transfer station for the Women’s Army Corp from late 1945 to 1947. In the 1970s, it was transformed to a boutique hotel. It was purchased by its current owner and renamed the Hotel Andra in 2004, when it underwent a complete conversion to its current layout. The guest rooms are spacious, ranging from 250 square feet for a Standard

room to 550 square feet in the Lux Suites. Many of the 119 rooms contain a wet bar where there was once a kitchen and you’ll find amenities such as goose-down pillows, Egyptian cotton linens and coffee makers with complimentary Starbucks coffee (this is Seattle, after all, birthplace of Starbucks). Complimentary wireless internet is offered throughout the hotel. The hotel is constantly being updated and thus has a clean, modern feel to it. Finding somewhere to eat nearby isn’t a problem; rather, my issue was that I didn’t have time to try all the restaurants on my wish-list. Hotel Andra partners with restaurateur Tom Douglas, with his restaurant Lola attached to the hotel lobby. Seattle Metropolitan Magazine declares, “Lola’s breakfast is the best in town.” As I stood waiting for our table to be prepared for our breakfast reservation, the steady stream of walk-ins seemed to confirm this declaration. In fact, for those without a reservation, the wait was at least half an hour. Across the street is another Douglas eatery, Dahlia Lounge & Bakery and around the corner is Serious Pie, where you’ll find some of the best pizza in town. We chose to dine at Assaggio, the authentic Italian restaurant next door to the hotel. I’ll definitely be back! From its convenient location, to its outstanding service, including touches such as individual bags of ice in the ice cooler and its cozy, welcoming atmosphere, this hotel has a lot to offer. No wonder it made the Condé Nast 2012 Readers’ Choice Awards for “Top 20 Pacific Northwest Hotels”!

Hotel Andra 2000 Fourth Avenue Seattle, WA 98121 877.448.8600 toll-free 206.448.8600 www.hotelandra.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Chateau Victoria, Victoria, BC

By Russ Young

Chef Garrett Schack

It was the day after Thanksgiving, but there was nothing “Black” about this Friday. To say the least – it began by taking off from glassy Lake Union in Seattle, riding “shotgun” in a Kenmore Air Beaver. After a smooth flight over familiar Puget Sound sights and a gentle touchdown in Victoria’s Inner Harbour, my one-day flyaway was fully underway. My goal: to rest, relax, and eat and drink well … without leaving my hotel, Chateau Victoria. That seemed easy enough, not because of persistent drizzle, but more importantly, the hotel’s renowned Vista 18 restaurant and its award-winning cocktail lounge, Clive’s. Although I arrived mid-morning, the hotel staff – accommodating and outgoing, but not cloying -- checked me in early to a generously sized suite with a fine harbour view. (Note: Chateau Victoria offers something that is increasingly rare in hotels: windows that open and close. I filled the room with fresh air and stepped onto the balcony.) Anticipating the first of three meals 72

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at Vista 18, I visited the workout room and pool to boost my appetite. The Jacuzzi was a nice finishing touch after lifting weights, spinning the elliptical trainer and taking a few laps of the pool. Spruced up, I went to the 18th floor and the aptly named Vista 18. The views are impressive and it would take several visits to enjoy them all – the restaurant offers 360 degrees of skyline and scenery. By then, my appetite was on high alert and I faced questions no one should answer on an empty stomach: Pear/squash soup, or turkey and cranberry lettuce cups? Butter pork with mango salsa on naan, or sturgeon and chips? Local beer? Local wine? Fortunately, a dish of root chips arrived, along with a glass of British Columbia Pinot Gris, to help me choose: a bowl of smoked-potato leek soup and an oyster BLT. I was savoring my first bite of a Fanny Bay oyster when my server brought two things from the kitchen: an apology, and the bacon they had left off my sandwich. It’s never too late to correct

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an error; in this case, they corrected it before I even knew. The Chateau utilizes Victoria Spa Services, which offers in-room massages, facials and manicures/pedicures, among other treatments. (I won’t say which I indulged in, other than to say “real men” take care of their hands and feet. While watching football on TV.) Refreshed, it was time to visit Clive’s Classic Lounge. If you enjoy beer, wine or a traditional mixed drink, you’ll like the bar. If you’re a cocktail aficionado, you’ll love Clive’s. There are international cocktails inspired by the flavors of India, Norway, Colombia, Morocco and other countries. Does your bartender use buchu, beet bitters, infused aquavit or absinthe? ‘Nuff said – try a drink (or two) at Clive’s. Then it was up to dinner at Vista 18, sitting fireside with a terrific view and two genial tablemates: executive chef Garrett Schack (see sidebar) and foodand-beverage manager Kevin Neilson. Thankfully, I didn’t have to make any choices this time. They guided me through their tasting menu: octopus with chorizo; emu carpaccio; a

The actions of Vista 18’s executive chef, Garrett Schack, speak as loudly as his words when it comes to promoting local, sustainable and organic ingredients.

mushroom tart with bleu cheese; sturgeon and root vegetables; duck breast with lentils and poached pear; and local cheeses. All were paired with local wines, including a dry Reisling, Petales d’ Osoyoos rose and the spectacular Brandenburg No. 3 dessert wine. On my next visit perhaps I’ll sample the “Simplicity” and “Culinary Creations” menus – Vista 18 accommodates all palates. Satiated, I dozed on the couch in my suite, dreaming of ways to convince the editor to give me more space to describe Vista 18. (If successful, I’ll tell you about the bar, featuring 22 martinis with names inspired by famous movie lines, including“You Can’t Handle the Truth” and “I’ll Have What She’s Having.”) In the morning, I broke my “rules” and left the hotel for a stroll. It’s a short

walk to the Victoria Convention Centre, the Royal BC Museum, shopping and Harbour Air’s seaplane terminal. Invigorated, I took the now-familiar elevator ride to Vista 18, yet another panorama, and an impressive breakfast menu. As I departed Victoria later that day, I marveled at what 30 hours of outstanding food and drink, a great night’s sleep and welcoming, friendly service does for the body and the mind. Chateau Victoria, I’ll be back!

Chateau Victoria 740 Burdett Ave, Victoria, BC V8W 1B2, Phone:+1 250-382-4221 www.chateauvictoria.com

He is president of Island Chef’s Collaborative, a group that provides micro loans to support local farmers and food suppliers. From the 18th floor of Chateau Victoria, Schack proudly points out some of the farms that are visible from the restaurant. The Collaborative is working on establishing the City Food Hub, a local collective for food processing and storage. Dedication to local ingredients is a plus, but the chef points out “you can only serve so much kale and root vegetables. We have to stand behind what we serve.” And, grinning, he recalls the time that a diner questioned whether the mangoes he used were grown in British Columbia.

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Channel Lodge, La Conner, WA

The small community of La Conner is a popular Pacific Northwest getaway. Located on the delta near the mouth of the Skagit River, the former logging and fishing town is home to a vibrant arts community, thriving since artists began migrating to La Conner and the Skagit Valley in the 1930s. Just steps away from the downtown core is the cozy La Conner Channel Lodge. As the city’s only waterfront 74

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hotel, the two-story inn overlooks the Swinomish Channel. All but seven of the 40 well-appointed guest rooms have views of the channel, featuring either a private patio or balcony overlooking the water. The lodge, built on the former site of Dunlap Towing, opened in 1991. With its cedar-shake siding and woodsy garden, it blends in nicely with La Conner’s surroundings. A flagstone entry welcomes guests to the main lobby,

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By Sue Frause

featuring a river rock fireplace and grand piano, with live music on the weekends. As with the exterior, the interior of the lodge feels oh-so Northwest. Designed by Seattle’s Marcia Johnson Interior Design, the creative force behind both the Salish Lodge and The Inn at Langley, the inviting guest rooms are bathed in a sand-washed watercolor palette. The natural richness of the rooms is achieved through

a combination of slate flooring and carpeting, with fir accents throughout. High-back plush chairs and gas fireplaces make for a cozy retreat, and other room amenities include plush down comforters and pillows, jetted tubs in some rooms, flat screen TVs and DVD players and complimentary WiFi. A bountiful continental breakfast is served in a sunwashed room on the second floor. The morning menu includes homemade granola, pastries and bagels, cold cuts and cheese, hard boiled eggs, yogurt, fresh fruit, juices, coffee, tea and hot chocolate. Also on the second floor is The Lodge Retreat, a spa room featuring massages, body scrubs, facials and other treatments. If you can pull yourself away from the luxurious lodge, go for a stroll along the boardwalks connecting the First Street businesses, or hike up the hill – home to the historic Gaches Mansion that houses the La Conner Quilt & Textile Museum. And don’t miss the Museum of Northwest Art, featuring the works of such Northwest School artists as Morris Graves and Mark Tobey. There’s also outdoor art to be found, easily seen on the self-guided La Conner Sculpture Walk, featuring 20 contemporary pieces throughout the downtown area. Tasty interactive stops along the way include La Conner Brewing Company, Washington Sips, Hellam’s Vineyard Wine Shop and Wine Bar, Silver Bell Winery and Olive Shoppe Ginger Grater – offering beer, wine and olive oil tastings. La Conner is a palate pleaser, ranging from the Calico Cupboard, a cafe and bakery that’s known for “the sweetest buns in town” and the La Conner Pub & Eatery, a waterfront tavern that opened in 1937 and is touted for its tasty fish n’ chips. Just two blocks from the La Conner Channel Lodge is Nell Thorn Restaurant & Pub, adjacent to the La Conner Country Inn (sister inn to the La

Conner Channel Lodge). Nell Thorn is a favorite lunch and dinner spot using local ingredients sourced from nearby farms, ranches and fishermen. Its menu is “tweaked and adjusted” to what’s in season. It has a full bar with craft cocktails, carefully selected draft and bottled beer and wines by the glass. The restaurant is moving to a waterfront location in 2014.

La Conner Channel Lodge 205 North First Street La Conner, WA 98257 888-466-4113 www.laconnerlodging.com

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HARBORS Celebrating Boating in the Pacific Northwest Seattle Boat Show

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We st Coa st M ari ne Services Pet e Fot i

Boys Po rt M cN eill No rth ern BC Ja ck ma n ve Pi erre of Echo Ba y & Ste

Gig Harbor Mayor Jill Guernsey

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Nort hwe st Sea plan es and Hak ai Lodge

Shan e, Clyde & Pricilla Carls on, Jason Wint ers

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Fast. Convenient. Stress-free Daily seaplane & wheeled aircraft Express flights from Seattle to more than 45 spectacular Northwest destinations

BI-MONTHLY PHOTO CONTEST

Send us your best photos in the following categories and enter our Facebook Photo Contest. Each issue one winner will receive a $50.00 cash prize and have their winning photo featured in HARBORS Magazine. At the end of the year all winning entries will be entered to win a trip for two to the San Juan Islands.

• Wildlife or Nature Photo • Fishing Adventure Photo • • Seaplane Photo • Boating Photo • First go to our Facebook page and like us…then email your photo in high resolution 300 dpi at 8 x 11 to photo-contest@harborsmagazine.com All entries will be posted on our HARBORS Facebook page and readers can vote on their favorite photos!

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San Juan Islands • Olympic Peninsula • Victoria, BC • Nanaimo, BC •Destination Vancouver Magazine Island • Canadian Gulf Islands | 79 HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating BC Inside Passage • Seattle Scenic Flight Tours • Ground Shuttle available to/from Sea-Tac Airport

Seaplane/Floatplane

Passenger Guide Things you need to know...

Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage iin the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isn’t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.

Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.

Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.

Passenger Briefing Checklist

Getting out safely! Underwater egress

• Baggage limits

In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.

• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)

1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. DO NOT INFLATE IT until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot swim underwater with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit.

Knowing how to find and use exits

6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise.

Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up.

7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.

Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

HARBORS: Connecting the Pacific Northwest HARBORS connects you to the many exciting adventures ready to be enjoyed by travelers exploring Western Washington and British Columbia. From wineries and culinary destinations to scenic trails and inlets leading to the most spectacular views and natural resources, let HARBORS lead you on a journey starting with this word seek. □ �

ALASKA

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DESTINATION

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HIGH TIDE

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ANCHOR

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EXPLORE

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HIKING

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BEAVERS

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GANGES

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KAYAKING

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CAPTAIN

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GETAWAY

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MARINA

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CHARTERS

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GOLFING

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NAVIGATE

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CRAB

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GRIZZLY BEAR

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NEAH BAY

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ORCAS

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ORCHARD

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SCENERY

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SNUG HARBOR

F Y I N E Y C G I Z P L A S H

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STEELHEAD

I A G N A Z O R T L L Y E C L

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STREAMS

N T E K E L C I A Y O S N V E

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STUART ISLAND

O C I R F R S N N B R R A O E

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TOFINO

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TRAVEL

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VOYAGE

P N A V I G A T E W A P K E G

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WATERFRONT

T M C X E H W T D T V U A A N

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WINERIES

S R O H C N A L E V A R T C A

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K G E K E D I T H G I H Y O E S N U G H A R B O R C H A R D T G K T U A Y K N I E P B C A O W D Z Z R A C O Z X S H A E

S N I

I R T I

I E E N L Y T

G T N O R F R E T A W B A A S K G B E A V E R S R T W S G E

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

Whatever your destination, Red Lion has a location for you. Whether you’re boating the Columbia River, soaring above Seattle atop the Space Needle, skiing the fresh power of Idaho mountains or enjoying the open sky of Montana, we know you’re going to need a good night’s sleep. Wherever your Pacific Northwest adventure takes you, Red Lion Hotels will help make it comfortable. 84

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