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Holiday Gift Guide Crazy for Razor Clams Birding in Alaska

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Everett Seattle

Tacoma Olympia

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Navigator 42

Navigator 42

Performance & Size:

Capacities:

Length Overall: 42’ 2’ / Beam: 13’ 6’

Fuel/Fresh/Holding 450/135/45 gal.

Displacement (Full): 20,800 lbs.

Comfort: 2-3 Berths (Queen beds)

Cruising Speed: 30 knots

Separate Head and Shower

Economy at Cruise: 1.35mpg/22gph

Sleeping Capacity: 5-7

Propulsion: Volvo IPS 500/600

Fish Hold (approx): 9’x4’x3’, ~6,000 lbs.

Adventure.

It can be defined in so many ways. Extreme fishing on the open ocean. A quiet anchorage in the middle of nowhere.

Spontaneously taking your 16 year old daughter to the city - by boat, to enjoy fine dining and the ballet. Whatever your adventure, it matters. And at Lindell Yachts, we build the finest boats available for just that - your adventure.

www.lindellyachts.com

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MAGAZINE

View the most sought-after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

H ARBORS

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine | volume 8 • issue 6

CONTACT 3214 45th Ave SW Seattle, WA 98116 360.821.1047 info@harborsmagazine.com www.harborsmagazine.com PUBLISHER Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITORIAL Kat McKelvey George Bivoino Vince Hagel Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Karen Johnson ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com

Adventure & Lifestyle

CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Sean Griffin Jean Groesbeck Lisa Halvorsen Deane Hislop Brian Kott Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp PHOTO CREDITS LIndell Yachts, pgs. 14-21 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 22-27 Deane Hislop, pgs. 28-31, 46-49 Lisa Halvorsen, pgs. 52-56 Karen Johnson, pgs. 42 (top and bottom right), 70, 72 (top) Tom Tripp, pgs. 71, 72 (bottom left) Canterbury Inn, pgs. 74, 75 (middle, bottom) Sean Griffin, pgs. 75 (top), 76-77 Pacific Sands Beach Resort, pgs. 78-79 HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State Friday Harbor Film Festival The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Northwest Marine Trade Association Northwest Yacht Brokers Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association

Cultural & Culinary Experiences

PUBLISHED BY © 2017 by All Ports Media Group

Fishing Excursions

Resorts & Spas

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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.

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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

A Note from the Publisher

Harbor Lights It’s hard to believe another season has come and gone, and that the holidays are approaching. But this is a wonderful time to be in the Pacific Northwest. Our winters are mild compared to other parts of the world. And there are numerous destinations to explore in the offseason.

This issue is our holiday issue and we love giving our readers ideas for gifts. The trend these days is to give experiences rather than “stuff.” A weekend getaway is always a good choice. If you have never been in a seaplane, most seaplane companies offer local tours, which is also a great gift. I remember the first time I toured over Seattle with Northwest Seaplanes; I thought, why haven’t I done this before? With friends and family visiting for the holidays, a seaplane tour is a great way to show off our beautiful region.

The holidays are a great time to share photos and videos taken during your summer adventures. One of our writers, Russ Young, took a “small ship” cruise to Alaska in July for an article that will appear in the Jan/Feb issue. After sharing his pictures and stories with his sister in Australia, she and her husband took the same trip on Fantasy Cruises in September. Sharing experiences makes for lasting family memories.

All of us at HARBORS want to wish everyone a special holiday season, and wish you all peace and joy in your travels.

Get out and have an adventure!

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Get on board with

HARBORS Calling all Captains, Pilots and Adventure Enthusiasts…. we appreciate your support and look forward to bringing you more and more exciting boating and seaplane destinations.

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HARBORS 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER

photo by Lindell Yachts

COVER PHOTO: Lindell Yachts luxury sport utility vessel for any adventure.

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Lindell Yachts

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Crazy Winter Clammer

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Blake Island Marine State Park

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Travel Maps

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Waterfront Living

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Ladysmith Maritime Society Marina

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It’s for the Birds

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Holiday Gift Guide

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HARBORS Happenings

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Gear Guide

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Seaplane & Boating Destinations

Luxury Sport Utility Boats

A Cure for Off-Season Cabin Fever

Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways WinterizingYour Home and Boat Rich in History and Activity Alaska’s Palmer Hay Flats Gift Ideas for the Outdoor Adventurer 41st Annual Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival

Features

Try it Once and You’ll Be Hooked

Let’s Get Crabby Canterbury Inn, WA • Wisteria Inn, BC • Pacific Sands Beach Resort, BC The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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orthwest

oat Travel

From Washington to Alaska, Your Source for Marinas, Restaurants, Services, Points of Interest & much more.

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We must be the change we wish to see in the world.

Mahatma Gandhi

Cascadia is a non-profit whose mission is to promote the design, construction and operation of buildings in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia that are environmentally responsible, profitable and healthy places to live, work and learn. www.cascadiagbc.org The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Lindell Yachts by boat building legend Jim Lindell

by Brian Kott

I

t’s 5:30 a.m. Jim Lindell unlocks the doors to his factory like he does every morning. At 73, he is still the first one to turn on the lights, compressors, and various equipment to make ready for the crew who will arrive at 6:00 a.m. This seemingly simple shop is tucked almost unnoticeably on Camano Island, Washington where Lindell has quietly worked his magic for over 40 years. At first glance, it looks like any other boat factory— various molds, resin containers, fiberglass material, and of course—dust.

But a closer look reveals a highly intricate and elaborate system for manufacturing Lindell boats—a complex The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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composite process called vacuum infusion technology. Despite its clear superiority over traditional fiberglass techniques, few companies have been able to effectively learn and utilize this process, let alone perfect it. Jim Lindell began using vacuum infusion over eighteen years ago and has refined it to a precise science. As a result, his unique boats are lighter, stronger, and faster than almost all the others. One would never know that a state of the art luxury sport utility vessel emerges from such a humble building—the Lindell 42.

Just what is a luxury sport utility vessel? And what kind of clients buy a Lindell? What do they do with them? Are they fishing boats or cruising boats? Coastal waters or offshore?

To answer these questions, you have to understand Jim’s history and how it is intertwined into the DNA of his boats. Jim commercially fished the rough waters in southeast Alaska for 16

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1-800-277-5421 over 25 years. But from the very beginning, he spent his off-seasons pursuing his passion, building boats and experimenting with fiberglass composite techniques. He built over 50 custom fiberglass gillnetters, known as the “Rolls Royce” of the Southeast Alaska fishery. While all of the other gillnet boats were of wood construction, old, and slow, Jim’s boats were highly sought after for three main reasons— they were luxurious, fast, and overbuilt, three characteristics that would ultimately identify a “Lindell.” His boats could handle the extreme conditions of the Alaskan waters, and did it in style. It’s no wonder there were long waiting lists for one of his boats.

After retiring from commercial fishing in the late 90s, Jim transitioned to building boats full time and moved his focus into the recreational boating market. He brought with him his unchanging reputation for extreme quality and commercial grade. Once The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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again, his boats were overbuilt for their purpose, luxurious, and incorporated many features from the commercial world. His customers ranged from hardcore recreational fishermen to extreme boating enthusiasts—all of whom sought the rugged custom quality of a Lindell. A luxury recreational boat that could handle extreme “anything”—a luxury sport utility vessel.

The Lindell 42 is Jim’s newest creation—a technological machine built with the latest fly-by-wire integrated propulsion system (IPS), dynamic positioning, glass cockpit, vacuum infusion, etc., etc. But, still the same Lindell DNA—luxurious, fast, and overbuilt. “You can always go slower,” says Jim with a smile. His construction process also allows the boat to be light and amazingly fuel efficient for its size. Clients can customize just about anything on the boat—within reason that is. Change the interior layout—sure. Stretch the cockpit four 18

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feet—no problem. Add a fly bridge— done. But as one owner put it, “If Jim says no, then it either can’t be done, or it’s against his principles.” DNA is DNA. And Jim Lindell boats are Jim Lindell boats.

So, the Lindell 42’ really is the sport utility vessel for any adventure.

Extreme fishing or hardcore cruising, Jim’s boats are built for people who use them. It’s no surprise that his clients use their boats often, and work them hard, and at the end of the day, when he slides the doors to the factory shut, this makes this soft spoken old gillnetter quite happy.

LINDELL YACHTS 819 N. Smith Road Camano Island, WA 98282 360.629.4164 www.lindellyachts.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Try it once and it’s likely you’ll be hooked as a

Crazy Winter Clammer

by Terry W. Sheely

S

pecks of light sift like fireflies across the hard-packed sand of Copalis Beach, light emanating from headlamps or lanterns carried by hundreds of razor clam junkies like me, slowly moving toward the soft thump of ocean waves breaking in the darkness and rolling ashore.

Tonight the ocean is pulling back, drawn by a minus tide and revealing a sandy bottom that holds the oldest and largest razor clams on the Washington

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coast, choice finds accessible only a few days of the year during extreme low tides.

A thin skim of saltwater slides out of dark flows, illuminated by the light of my headlamp around my boots. When a wavelet sinks into the beach it reveals a circular, coffee-cup size welt in the sand, and in the center of that welt is a dimple where a razor clam’s neck has extended to the surface, then withdrawn toward its shell. I smile. This is

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why I’m here in the cold water at the edge of the ocean in the early dark of a wet winter night.

I position the narrow, specialized blade of my ‘clam shovel’ half a foot beyond the dimple, on the ocean side, and push straight down hard, the handle pointing slightly toward the trucks parked somewhere behind me on the narrow band between drivable hard-packed sand and soft, tire-burying dunes.

When the top of the blade reaches the sand, I rock the shovel, loosening the compacted sand, and then drop to one knee (which explains why I wear rubber hip boots) and feel through the cold grit for the hard edge of a clam shell.

If I dig too close to the dimple there’s a good chance I’ll shatter the shell, and kill the clam before it can purge sand and grit. Big, small, shattered or whole—the first 15 clams dug are counted as a limit by Washington Fish and Wildlife agents (WDFW) who patrol the digging areas. Where razor clams are concerned there is no dig and release. Dig it, you keep it. Which is why veteran diggers wait to dig until the tide recedes to the farthest reaches where the largest clams live.

Rather than the specialized clam shovel I’m using, some diggers opt for a clam gun, a round metal tube with a handle on top. The open tube is centered on the ‘dimple’ and worked into The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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How to Dig

Washington Fish and Wildlife provides illustrated how-to instructions for shovel and tube techniques, as well as step-bystep information on identifying clam holes, cleaning, preparing, and cooking at wa.gov/fishing/ shellfish/razorclams/howto_dig. html.

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the sand down and around the clam.

When the tube is withdrawn there should be a clam in the core.

Pacific razor clams are up to 6 inches long, distinctively narrow, thin-shelled and the color of polished mahogany.

The edge of the shell is, as the name indicates, razor sharp, and almost the entire clam from neck to foot is edible. This one is deep, the sign of a big clam. My fingers touch the top of the shell. The rest is still buried. I carefully re-insert the shovel and wiggle it to loosen the hole. Fingers, gritty and sticky with saltwater, dig into the deepened hole, and this time I come up with the prize. I add it to the nine clams already in the mesh bag and continue the hunt. Five to go and the tide is still ebbing seaward.

There will be some fat clams on the table tomorrow. After I fill my limit with the next five I’ll wade into knee deep water, and dunk the mesh bag of clams to wash off the grit.

In the distance, at the dune line, I

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see a propane burner come to life with a burst of yellow and blue flame that marks a tailgate dinner. A loaf of good Italian bread, lemon, melted butter, maybe a little egg wash, and a skillet sizzling with peanut oil and razor clams fresh from the ocean create a Northwest experience unlike any other.

Razor clamming is more than seafood recreation, especially on night digs in November and December when the weather kicks up, cold settles in and the ocean rumbles. It’s a festival of night lights and shared adventure that invites camaraderie. It’s part hunt and seek, part craziness, and part endurance, especially if the weather snarls. It’s tailgate cookouts and family fun with a touch of danger if the you get bogged down too far down the beach when the tide rolls in.

It can also become an addiction, and the hook is a delectable slab of iconic Northwest seafood that will build a chowder to die for, fried up succulent and tender to coax you back

again and again.

Copalis Beach, where I’m digging tonight, is one of five public Washington razor clam beaches from the Columbia River north up the Olympic Peninsula managed by WDFW for recreational digs. Each beach is regulated independently and openings vary, but are set to coincide with low tides, especially minus tides that provide the most digging area and spread out the harvest impacts.

Regulated razor clam beaches include: Long Beach, from the Columbia River to Leadbetter Point.

Twin Harbors Beach, from the mouth of Willapa Bay north to the south jetty at the mouth of Grays Harbor.

Copalis Beach, which runs from the Grays Harbor north jetty to the Copalis River, and includes the Copalis, Ocean Shores, Oyhut, Ocean City and Copalis areas.

Mocrocks Beach, extends from the Copalis River to the southern boundary of the Quinault Reservation near The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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the Moclips River, and includes Iron Springs, Roosevelt Beach, Seabrook, Pacific Beach and Moclips.

Kalaloch Beach is the northernmost dig, extending from South Beach Campground to Brown’s Point (just south of Beach Trail 3) in Olympic National Park.

As always, the most remote beaches have the largest, and sometimes, highest number of clams. Most of the beaches are drivable with reasonably wide tires and all wheel drive vehicles which allow diggers, even at popular access points, to reach distant clam areas. Getting stuck in the sand is more common than not, and most clammers are quick to lend a push or a tow, good advice on where not to drive, and why you need a shovel, tow strap, and traction boards. We’ve all been there. Be aware that WDFW prohibits driving on the lower hard-pack areas where razor clams live.

The one thing you can count on is that you’ll have company, even the most adventurous beach driving diggers. WDFW says that, “razor clams are one of the most sought after shellfish in the state,” pointing out that “It is not unusual to have as many as a thousand people per mile during a nice spring day.” Fewer turn out for winter night digs, but you’ll still have plenty 26

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of enthusiastic company. Typically, in a season, according to WDFW, 300,000 clammers will bag 6 to 13 million razor clams.That’s a lot of camaraderie, chowder, fritters, and clam fries.

For the truly addicted, razor clam season settings are like announcing Christmas several times a year. Diggers pack beach motels, hotels, B&Bs, campgrounds and RV parks, and longtime clam junkies will scour the tide book for minus tide days or nights and book rooms long before WDFW sets an opening. The year’s first openings are night digs on minus tides in late October with multiple re-openings in November, December and through the

winter if clam numbers hold up to conservation harvests levels. Seasons and beach openings will vary as WDFW keeps a close watch on harvest counts, and specific algae that produces a toxin harmful to humans. The agency closes beaches at the first signs of overharvesting or algae toxins.

While the glow of lights and the soft dark of winter digs have a fascinating draw, it is the extreme minus tides of spring that produce the best daylight digs of the year.

In March, clam aficionados celebrate an annual Razor Clam Festival at Ocean Shores, where chefs compete for razor clamming’s “Best of the North

Beach” cook-off (samples, you bet) and aficionados and novices alike will find an answer to every clamming question.

(Details at: www.oceanshores.org.) At the Razor Clam Festival several years ago I was tipped off about the big clams on this stretch of Copalis Beach and that was more than enough reason to attend. The blow-my-hip-boots-off chowder was a bonus.

Tonight my 15th clam waits under the dimple at the edge of the light from my headlamp, a foot under the sand.

The shovel blade wiggles down, sand comes out and the head light reflects a sliver of mahogany shell. Tomorrow we feast!

FOR DETAILS ON CLAMMING: www.oceanshores.org

wa.gov/fishing/shellfish/razorclams/ howto_dig.htm

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Blake Island Marine State Park A cure for off-season cabin fever

By Deane Hislop

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O

ne of my favorite off-season locations is Blake Island Marine Park, located within easy cruising distance from anywhere in the southern end of Puget Sound.

Nestled between Bainbridge Island and Vashon Island just seven miles from downtown Seattle’s waterfront, Blake Island’s small harbor, is accessible only by boat. Four to five months of the year it is packed with boats triple rafted on the 1,500-feet of dock as well as on twenty-four mooring buoys surrounding the island, which bustles with visitors.

In the off-season, the island reclaims its anonymity because Puget Sound boaters seem to get amnesia, forgetting that the 475-acre island is easy to reach for weekend or day cruises throughout the year in most conditions. As a result, a sense of remoteness usually reserved for more distant destinations returns to allow one to escape from the hassles and humdrum of everyday life on the mainland. That’s why, from September to May, we often pack our boat with warm clothes and rain gear, along with plenty of coffee and comfort food. We also pull NOAA chart 18449 from the chart locker before setting course for the “sprit” island.

A small-craft basin with floats and pumpout is tucked in behind a rock breakwater on the northeast point of

the island. The entrance is at the north end of the breakwater between green and red markers on pilings that mark the dredged channel. Stray outside the markers and it’s far too easy to run aground.

The floats inside the breakwater provide electrical outlets available for visiting boaters. A self-service pay station is located on shore at the head of the ramps, where fees of $.70/ft. and $6/night for power can be paid. South of the dock ramp are restroom facilities with showers, open year-round, and two covered picnic shelters with fire pits and picnic tables for those rainy days. All garbage must be packed out. Protection is good under most conditions, except when winds blow too hard from the north.

If you prefer to moor away from the dock, you can tie up to one of twentyfour buoys scattered around the island, although boats over 36 feet may not tie to the buoys at the southern end of the island. Limits are posted on the buoys. A mooring fee of $15/night is collected year-round at self-registration pay stations ashore. However, boats over 45 feet are not permitted to moor on any buoy. An annual moorage permit can be obtained online at parks.state.wa.us. One can spend leisurely days and nights here and even contemplate a bit of history.

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Now a cruiser’s rest stop, Blake Island was originally an ancestral campground of the Suquamish and Duwamish Tribes who took advantage of the local resources. It is also believed to be the birthplace of Chief Seattle (See-ahth), for whom the city of Seattle was named. In 1792, Captain George Vancouver of the British Royal Navy anchored off the south tip of Bainbridge Island known as Restoration Point, and sent Peter Puget in his longboats to survey farther south. He noted in his journal “a small round island” but never named it. Using a journal in 1841, Lieut.

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Charles Wilkes of the United States Exploring Expedition, officially named the island after George Smith Blake, who commanded U.S. Coast Survey vessels from 1837 to 1848.

Later, during the mid-1800’s the Port Madison Saw Mill sawed timber logged from the virgin forest on Blake Island. With no more trees to harvest, the island held little value, and the mill fell delinquent on property taxes forcing a Seattle bank to foreclose and take possession. At the turn of the century, William Pitt Trimble acquired the island and re-named it Trimble Island, transforming it into a magnificent

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private estate for his wife and five children. The two story mansion warmed twelve rooms with five fireplaces. For security, when the three caretakers weren’t tending to the lawn, formal and vegetable gardens, they patrolled the shoreline chasing away bootleggers who had nicknamed the island, “Smuggler’s Island.” After his wife died in a drowning accident in Seattle in 1929, Trimble never returned to the property. A small portion of the foundation of his mansion can still be seen, although the home itself was destroyed by fire. The history of the Trimble estate appears on a sign at the site of the former mansion.

In 1958, Washington State Land Commissioner Bret Cole discovered development plans to turn the island into an exclusive housing project with a luxury resort, hotel and marina. He believed the island should be preserved for the general public’s use and in 1959 the island was sold to Washington State and work began to develop it for public use. The property became Blake Island State Park in October, 1974 and the rock jetty and boat basin were constructed in 1975.

Now the boat basin and Tillicum Village Northwest Coast Indian Cultural Center longhouse serve as the people hub to the otherwise undeveloped island. From May through September guests can depart from Seattle on a four-hour tour, which includes a Northwest Indian-style salmon bake and stage show. Visiting boaters can sign up (in advance) for dinner and show at the gift shop or by calling Argosy Cruises, 206-623-1445.

The island also provides a magnificent view of the snow-capped Mount Rainier and Olympic Mountains. On our last visit, a wonderful clear crisp night, the view of Seattle’s skyline was spectacular. The following morning resident deer grazed on the grounds

at the top of the ramp. With so few visitors to the island during the offseason, it’s not uncommon to encounter resident wildlife while walking the beach or hiking the 15 miles of trails. Island critters include raccoons, chipmunks, otters, squirrels, mink, eagles, osprey, geese and many other types of birds. You can also enjoy hiking through the inner island’s quiet lushness, large second growth forest, ferns and fauna, and combing the five miles of beach on a brisk day can be energizing.

Blake island’s tranquility makes an off-season visit a relaxing and rejuvenating day or overnight getaway. It just might be just what the doctor ordered to cure that case of cabin fever.

Annual Moorage Permit If you plan to stay more than four or five nights a year at state park moorages, consider an annual moorage permit. The permit fee is $5 per foot with a minimum of $60, and is good for either park docks or mooring buoys. An annual moorage permit can be obtained online at parks.state.wa.us.

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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IDENTIFICATION OF COMMON GROUNDFISH SPECIES (of Washington, Oregon and Northern California)

Anglers are responsible for knowing current fishing regulations, which can change frequently.

Check the state website for up-to-date information.

Yelloweye Rockfish

Canary Rockfish (Slightly indented tail)

Adult

(Smooth jawline)

Juvenile

Bright yellow eye and raspy ridges above eye.

Fins usually have black edges.

Juveniles have 1 or 2 white stripes along side of body.

Tiger Rockfish

Dark Version

Variants

(Smooth jawline)

Variants

(Gray lateral line)

(Anal fin slanted)

Typically three stripes across side of head and gill plate. Body orange mottled with gray.

Vermilion Rockfish

Pink Version

Strong ridges between eyes.

5 or 6 vertical bars on body.

Lower jawline rough to touch. Body reddish and mottled with gray. Anal fin rounded.

Black Rockfish

Deacon Rockfish

Large mouth. Body mottled with gray. White belly.

Black spots on the dorsal membrane.

Small mouth with extendedlower lip. Vague stripes across forehead.

Blue-tipped pelvic fins. Many small speckles covering sides of body.

Bocaccio Rockfish

Blue Rockfish

Large mouth extending upwards. Slightly concave between mouth and dorsal fin. Body orange, olive or brown.

Small mouth. Vague stripes across forehead. Bluetipped pelvic fins. Large angular blotches on sides of body.

Photos courtesy Vicky Okimura; WDFW

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www.harborsmagazine.com

REV. 2016

Quillback Rockfish

Copper Rockfish

(Deep indentations in dorsal fin)

Variants

Variants

Light colored band along the last 2/3 of lateral line.

Freckles on head and/or throat.

Yellowish saddle markings do not extend to tail.

Yellowtail Rockfish

China Rockfish

Fins yellowish, large mouth. May have pale patches or spots on back. May be confused with Olive Rockfish.

Widow Rockfish

Broad yellow stripe starting on dorsal fin, along lateral line. Yellowish white freckles.

Brown Rockfish

Dark brown patch or spot on gill cover. Underside of throat and lower jaw pinkish. Fins may be pinkish.

Small mouth, anal fin slanted posteriorly.

Kelp Greenling

Cabezon

Lingcod

Flap of skin above eye and on snout. Huge mouth, small teeth.

Body marbled. Smooth skin.

Large mouth and large teeth. Deep notch in long dorsal fin. Elongated body.

Smooth skin.

Male Female Small mouth, small teeth. Blue spots may be faint except when breeding, when they become almost neon. Reddish spots on female. Smooth skin.

wdfw.wa.gov

dfw.state.or.us

wildlife.ca.gov Photos courtesy Vicky Okimura; WDFW

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

psmfc.org REV. 2016

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33

Skagway to Ketchikan

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35

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HARBORS |

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Cape Flattery

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Bamfield

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GULF ISLANDS

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Port Washington

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MONTAGUE HARBOUR

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ISLAND

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INS NTA Arm

38 U MO

Haro Strait

Nanaimo to Olympia

Puget Sound

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Bellingham Gulf Islands Nanaimo Puget Sound Salt Spring Island San Juan Islands Seattle Vancouver Island Victoria

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OLYMPIA

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et Gig Inl Harbor

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SEATTLE

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Cove

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39

Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest

by Jean Groesbeck

Winterizing Your Home and Boat The days are getting shorter, nights are getting colder and there is new snow in the mountains. It is time to winterize your home and boat to avoid any problems in the middle of the winter! As cold weather

40

| HARBORS

approaches, take a few preventative measures to protect your home.

Winterizing is generally a task that can be done relatively inexpensively, but will make a big difference in how comfortable your home is, and

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could end up saving you money on energy bills, too. In fact, many very effective home and boat weatherproofing jobs are something that homeowners can complete without professional help.

Winterizing your Home: The process for winterizing homes varies slightly from home to home, but here is a general checklist to winterize your home and save energy: • Run your ceiling fans in reverse to push warm air down to save energy costs • Drain your irrigation system to avoid freezing • Replace smoke alarm batteries • Have your furnace serviced and filters changed • Install storm doors and windows • Add weather stripping to doors and windows to reduce drafts • Reprogram your thermostat • Insulate water pipes to prevent frozen and/or broken pipes • Check screens under crawl spaces to prevent unwanted critters, but do

not block the vents • Clean gutters and downspouts in mid-fall and double-check them before winter.

• Replace the filter in your furnace.

• Close any vents in your home that may have been opened for the warm weather.

• Disconnect hoses from outside faucets and turn off the water.

• Buy a snow shovel and other winter supplies before the messy weather hits.

• Keep extra water and canned food in storage just in case.

• Test your heating system, so that you know it will work properly when you need it.

• Give your deck a fresh coat of sealer to protect it from the winter elements.

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

41

at some point, put the old canvas on for winter storage. Leave its fuel tank full to prevent condensation and put sweetener in the holding tank and flush. Some manufacturers also suggest putting one tablespoon of cooking oil in the head and let it set overnight, and then flush to keep parts lubricated. Of course, have your engines serviced. Here are a few more tips on boat storage.

Out of Water Boat Storage:

Winterizing your Boat: Winterizing a small boat depends on whether you are leaving the boat in the water or removing it, and whether the boat has an inboard or outboard engine. It is always best to check with the boat’s manufacturer to determine best practices in addition to flushing the engine, changing the oil and having a source of heat to prevent freezing.

Many people today are opting to remove their boat from the water themselves and have it shrink wrapped for the winter season. If you do not live near your vessel this may be an option for you, however many prefer to use their boat year-round. Boating in the winter with crystal clear days and few boats in the water is a favorite for many Northwesterners.

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| HARBORS

If you leave your boat in the water year-round you might want to consider purchasing a boat slip. Covered and uncovered boat slips are available for purchase.

Another thing to consider when preparing your boat for winter is that larger vessels need heat and air movement to prevent mildew. If you leave clothes on board, leave the closets open, empty the refrigerator and turn it off with the door open. Leave a lamp on so the harbormaster can see if the power goes out. Don’t forget to leave your ice maker turned off!

If your boat is not under a cover, it might need more TLC such as keeping up with routine washings and removing any bird droppings off the boat. If you have replaced your canvas

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• Pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs.

• Clean all thru-hulls and strainers.

• Open seacocks to allow any water to drain.

• Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended make a note to tell your service manager.

• Now is a great time to give the hull a good wax job.

• Be sure the batteries are fully charged and switches are turned off.

In Water Boat Storage: • Close all seacocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary.

• Check your battery to make sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure your charging system is working.

• Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working and that float switches

properly activate the pumps and that they are not hindered by debris.

• Monitor your boat regularly to avoid leaks, or animal infestations.

• If your mooring area is likely to freeze be sure to suspend water agitators below it to bring warmer water to the surface so it’s not iced in.

compliments your lifestyle

By following some of the above suggestions, you should be in good shape for the winter. Do not, however, neglect to consult your owner’s manuals for manufacturer’s recommendations on winterizing your boat and other systems. If you have not done a winterization job before, or don’t have an experienced friend to rely on, seek out a professional to do the job for you.

Partial content provided by Boatsafe.com

Jean Groesbeck is a licensed real estate broker with Coldwell Banker Bain and was raised in the Northwest. She and her husband Paul live in Anacortes with their two dogs, Jingles and Belle.

Jean Groesbeck (360) 941-3734 Jean@JeanGroesbeck.com 5 Star Real Estate Services

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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43

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45

Ladysmith Maritime Society Marina Rich in history and activity

by Deane Hislop

46

| HARBORS

www.harborsmagazine.com

T

he 49th parallel forms most of the border between the U.S, and Canada and turns sharply to the south at its western end, preserving all of Vancouver Island within the confines of British Columbia. Just west of that turn lies the seaside community of Ladysmith.

This picturesque town, built on the eastern shore of Vancouver Island, is 16 miles south of Nanaimo and 53 miles north of Victoria, overlooking the glistening waters of its harbor, Stuart Channel and British Columbia’s northern Gulf Islands.

When visiting Ladysmith, we enjoy staying at Ladysmith Maritime Society (LMS) Marina. The LMS is a nonprofit charitable organization of 300 volunteers and a small staff that strives to preserve, promote, and perpetuate a rich heritage.

On our last visit, after hailing the marina on VHF Ch. 66A, and receiving our dock assignment, we met a friendly wharfinger who was waiting at our assigned slip to assist with the lines. Once Easy Goin’ was secured, he shared information about the marinas

amenities and attractions: 1,100-feet of transit moorage, 30-amp power, water, pumpout. The impressive 3,000 sq. ft. floating Welcome Centre includes the registration desk, a fireside lounge, large TV, Wi-Fi, clean washrooms, showers, laundry, book and DVD exchange and a comfortable area for socializing. The building is also the home of the Oyster Bay Café, which is open mid-May through September— daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and lunch. Outside there is also a covered social dock with propane barbecues, tables and chairs for guests.

There is always something happening at the marina. Every other Friday from June through the first week in September, the LMS Marina Dine on the Dock events are a great way to meet fellow boaters and community members. This event has been very popular with visiting boats and area residents and does sell out, so reservations are suggested. Tuesday evenings during July and August is open mic night at Music on the Dock. Drop by with your guitar, or whatever you’d like and join in on the jam session.

During July and August daily twohour tours of the harbour are available aboard Maritimer, a former 17-foot deep-sea lifeboat. The Marina is also the site of a purple martin restoration project. Nesting boxes are attached to every piling, and each morning, at sunrise, the air is filled with the sound of birdsong.

The marina is also home for the floating Maritime Museum where you can be transported back in time to when coal mining and logging shaped the life in the harbour. There are also fascinating heritage vessels of many descriptions on display, including the tug Saravan and the restored water

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

47

taxi Kirkegaard as two fine examples.

Not only are the boats on display, but there is information about their history and photographs of the restoration projects.

The town is a short walk up the hill, and once you have arrived you can ride a trolley that stops throughout town.

It would be easy to spend an entire day exploring the historic main street and its interesting shops.

Ladysmith’s founder, James Dunsmuir, received word on March 1, 1900 that the British forces had finally relieved their besieged countrymen in Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Boer War. To honor that victory, he named his town Ladysmith. Streets such as Buller, Kitchener, and BadenPowell were named after the British generals who led troops in the war, and several beautifully restored historical buildings along the town’s main street evoke memories of the area’s pioneering coal miners and loggers.

Today, Ladysmith is home to a strong community of artists, and ongoing downtown heritage revitalization

Ladysmith Maritime Society Ladysmith Maritime Society (LMS) is a non-profit charitable organization in continuous operation since 1985. Initially, the Society was established to promote local maritime heritage, but its purpose has grown to serve the community by promoting tourism, and protecting and promoting Ladysmith’s maritime heritage as well as public access to the waterfront. LMS also operates a marina, which has become a gathering place for marine events, and for harbour tours in the summer months.

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is attracting visitors. Downtown celebrates and honors the community’s rich and colorful history. Ladysmith’s appealing red-bricked sidewalks evoke some of that history in the quaint downtown core, where one can wander amid restored 100-year-old storefronts and arcane pieces of multilevered, cog-wheeled mining and logging equipment, which have been painted black and make for eye-stopping sculptures.

While in town, visitors may step back in time at the Ladysmith Heritage Museum. Operated by volunteers from the Ladysmith and District Historical Society. The museum features an impressive collection of facts, artifacts, photographs, and local stories. Another interesting historical stop is The Black Nugget Museum, a refurbished hotel, with quirky delights.

There is no shortage of shopping opportunities in Ladysmith, including a health food store, hair salons, bakery, soup and sandwich diner, clothing, housewares, jewelry, pet supplies, shoes, coffee shops, drug store, book/ computer store, auto supplies, home décor, consignment shop, thrift store and restaurants. There’s also a gourmet store with kitchen tools and unique foods. To cure your sweet tooth there

is a sweets shop with its fudge, gourmet popcorn and British sweets. There is also a butcher shop with its sausages and meat pies. At the north end of town is the 49th Parallel Grocery, which has everything you will need for provisioning, and they will even provide free transport back to the marina for you and your purchases.

Of course, shopping is senseless without a little time for eating, and there is no shortage of restaurants. You will find many options for everything from takeout to a leisurely meal. You can enjoy home baking, bistro-style meals, fresh-roasted coffee, Asian cuisine, pizza and much more. Some of our favorites are morning coffee and breakfast at The Bean Time Café, Old Town Bakery for sticky cinnamon buns, for British pub food it’s Fox and Hounds, or check out Roberts Street

Pizza and Wild Poppy Bistro for lunch.

If shopping’s not your thing, or you just wish to zone out, you may visit Transfer Beach Park, a beautiful treed beachfront a short walk south of the marina on the paved Dogpatch Trail.

In the summer, families gather to swim in the bay’s sun-warmed shallows, to romp around the children’s play areas, get a bite to eat at the snack bar or ice cream stand and to enjoy outdoor concerts at the 1,000-seat seaside amphitheater with its stellar view.

Events are year round in Ladysmith.

Check out the Chamber of Commerce website for events and schedules. We understand Christmas is truly special here when thousands of visitors come from December to mid-January to be dazzled by the amazing spectacle of the Festival of Lights illuminating the streets, storefronts and homes.

PLAN YOUR VISIT: LMS Marina: www.lmsmarina.com Chamber of Commerce: www.ladysmithcofc.com

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HARBORS

PACIFIC SALMON ID

Spawning Phase

Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife Available online at http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/salmon/identification.html

CHINOOK (K ING)

Female

• Olive-brown colored body • Large spots on back and both lobes of tail • Mouth is black with black/grey gum line

Male

Female

COHO (SILV ER) • Greenish-black head with red to maroon colored body • Spots on back and only upper lobe of tail • Mouth is black with white gum line

Male

www.dukeschowderhouse.com

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PINK (HUMPY) • Vast majority return during odd-numbered years • Large oblong spots on back and both lobes of tail • Males develop pronounced hump

CHUM (DOG) • No spots on back or tail • Greenish to dusky mottling on sides • Males have reddish-purple vertical markings

SOCK EY E (R ED) • No distinct spots on back or tail • Greenish head • Brick red to scarlet red colored body, female coloration is more dull

Female

Male

Female

Male

Female

Male

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It’s for the Birds

by Lisa Halvorsen

T

here’s a slight chill in the air as darkening clouds threaten rain.

I struggle into my hip-high waders, pausing to zip up my windbreaker. Justin Saunders and wildlife photographer Shane Lamb, my fellow birders, have already loaded up the boat and are waiting patiently for me to stow my gear. I have no expectations as to what birds we might see, only a hope that I can add a handful of new species to my life list. For the moment I am content to simply drink in the 52

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raw natural beauty of Alaska’s Palmer Hay Flats, a 28,800-acre wildlife refuge near Wasilla, 40 miles northeast of Anchorage.

Located on the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet, the refuge has a standout reputation for birding. It has been designated as an IBA—Important Bird and Biodiversity Area—by the National Audubon Society and BirdLife International, signifying a place of global relevance for its diverse animal and plant species and

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conservation efforts to protect birds.

Several declining or threatened species are found here including the rusty blackbird, greater white-fronted goose and Hudsonian godwit.

In spring and fall, attracted by its estuarine habitat, tens of thousands of ducks, geese and other waterfowl descend on the area for a refueling stop on their migration to and from their northern breeding grounds. Tundra and trumpeter swans can be viewed in astounding numbers, primarily in

the spring, as can eagles, hawks and other raptors.

The refuge has several access points, including Rabbit Slough, a tributary of Wasilla Creek, where we launch our small motorized craft. Justin and Shane have seen a great horned owl here on several occasions although they also want to check on an osprey nest that they stumbled upon on a previous outing.

As we navigate the narrow creek, scanning the canopies and thick underbrush for birds, a loud crack pierces the air. Rounding the bend, we discover a young moose browsing on the tender new growth of an alder sapling on the bank. Unperturbed by our sudden appearance, he allows us only a brief look before ambling deeper into the thick brush. Although I am thrilled by the unexpected encounter, this is not the first moose I’ve seen since arriving in the MatanuskaSusitna Valley. A few days prior, en route to the Matanuska Glacier for a glacier trek with MICA Guides, I passed a moose lingering on the side of the highway.

That the flats even exist is due to the catastrophic earthquake of 1964, which caused the land to drop two or more feet in places and water to seep in, creating an entirely new habitat. Historically, this area was agricultural land, worked by farmers from the Midwest, many of whom relocated here through the Matanuska Colony program in the 1930s. This strategy, one of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal programs to bring impoverished farm families from Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota to the fertile Mat-Su Valley, is commemorated each June at Colony Days in nearby Palmer.

This pastureland where livestock once grazed, and farmers grew grains and other crops, now supports large populations of moose as well as black bears, lynx, muskrats, snowshoe hares and other mammals. The waterways formed by the earthquake are flush

Great Horned Owl

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with fish including Alaska blackfish, stickleback and Dolly Varden with annual runs of Pacific salmon, most notably coho salmon, making this a popular spot for anglers.

But I am here to go birding, and Palmer Hay Flats does not disappoint.

The mash-up of natural habitats from woodlands and coastal marshlands to tidal sloughs, mudflats, lakes and creeks makes this area a magnet for numerous resident and migratory species. More than 150 species have been recorded here of the 500 birds found in Alaska.

We’ve just started out when Shane spots a great horned owl perched on

a tree branch overhanging the slowmoving water. As we quietly approach, it stares at us, unblinking, for several minutes before launching into flight.

We follow as it flies parallel to the creek for a short distance before veering north towards the Talkeetna Mountains, one of two mountain ranges that frame the refuge. The other, the Chugach Mountain range, lies to the east and southeast. In the far distance we can see the massive icy-blue Knik Glacier.

Northern shoveler. Check. Ringnecked duck. Check. Lesser yellowlegs.

Check. Mew gull. Check. I quickly add each one to my list.

When the forests open up to fields,

Fritillaria

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Common Loon

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Shane deftly guides the boat to shore, so we can hop out. The bank is muddy, a slick, sticky mud that’s hard to grip, even with the deep-treaded soles of my waders.

In the distance a hawk slowly circles, cutting through the low cloud cover. Before I can pull out my dogeared field guide, Justin identifies it as a Harlan’s red-tailed hawk, a subspecies of the red-tails I am acquainted with back home.

I check the bird off my list as he draws my attention to an alder flycatcher, another new species for me, and two white-crowned sparrows and a yellowrumped warbler. I’m in birder’s heaven.

Yellow-rumped Warbler

Alder Flycatcher

Harlan’s Red-tailed Hawk

Sandhill Crane and Colt

Osprey

Shooting Star

White-crowned Sparrow

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Orange-crowned Warbler

Later we head to Reflections Lake, located at the confluence of Knik and Matanuska Rivers on the southeastern side of the refuge. A one-mile trail with a 35-foot observation tower, skirts the lake, a great place to find red-necked grebes, common loons and several species of dabbling and diving ducks.

The rapid high-pitched trill of the orange-crowned warbler alerts us to its presence although it’s next to im-

Blackpoll Warbler

possible to get a good look as it darts about in the dense canopy. As we walk along the flat loop trail, Justin glimpses a blackpoll warbler. I train my binoculars on the birch tree where he is pointing and within seconds spot the small black-and-white bird with its distinctive black cap.

We don’t have time to visit the Cottonwood Creek section in the refuge’s western end, an area of tidal flats

and wetlands attractive to waterfowl. It also has great historical significance as the Athabaskan people settled on the wooded bluff overlooking the creek.

The remains of that long-ago encampment can be seen today. The Historic Iditarod Trail also sliced through this area, the tireless dog teams that hauled supplies being the only link between civilization and the gold mining camps and isolated outposts.

CONTACT INFO: For fact-checking and info about the Mat-Su Valley: Casey Ressler Mat-Su Valley CVB 907-746-5037 Email: casey@visitalaska.com For fact-checking and info about birding in Alaska and the Palmer Hay Flats: Justin Saunders (907) 746-5032 Email: justin@alaskavisit.com For fact-checking and info about the Palmer Hay Flats: Doug Hill, wildlife biologist Division of Wildlife Conservation— State Game Refuge Management 907-861-2112 Email: doug.hill@alaska.gov

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Toasting the Holiday Festive Cocktails for the Holiday Season This year, do away with the egg nog and treat guests to cocktails that reflect the spirit of the season with festive garnishes, colors and ingredients.

Add a twist to a traditional Irish whisky with a Merry Irishman and toast to 2018 with a Melon Ball Drop. For des-

Very Merry Berry Holiday

2 oz light rum 3 dashes Pernod 1 oz lemon juice ½ oz grenadine Chilled club soda Shake and pour into a rocks glass or martini glass. Top with berries.

Hot Toddy

** *

1 part Irish Whisky 1 slice of lemon 2 lumps of sugar Fill to top with hot water Combine all ingredients and stir well.

Serve in a glass mug and garnish with a cinnamon stick.

** *

Holiday Hopper

1 oz Midori ½ oz Crème de Menthe Green ½ oz Crème de Cocao White 2 oz half-and-half Shake and strain into a martini glass.

Garnish with mint leaves and raspberry.

** *

sert, Zen out and wind down with a warm Zen Latte.

Easy to make and pleasing to the most discerning palates, below are some seasonal cocktail trends and tastes created especially for the holidays. Cheers!

Dreaming of Zen

1 oz Zen ½ oz Midori 3 oz Mango juice White pepper 2 oz cream Shake/strain over ice into a martini glass or champagne flute.

Garnish with mint leaves and a dash of nutmeg.

Merry Irishman

2 parts Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey 1 part Kahlua ½ part mint schnapps Serve over ice in a rocks glass.

Garnish with candy cane.

***

Midori Melon Ball Drop

2 oz Midori 1 oz Skyy Citrus Infusions ½ oz elderflower liquor Juice ½ lemon Sugar Rim Shake and strain into a martini glass.

Garnish with a melon ball on the rim.

***

Irish Iced Coffee

1 part Tullamore Dew Irish Whisky 1 part Carolans Irish Cream 1 part coffee liquor (or a shot of espresso) Shake and pour into a rocks glass topped with whipped cream.

Zen Latte

***

1 ½ parts of Zen 6 parts steamed milk Stir and garnish with matcha powder.

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OUR MISSION

• Protect and grow seaplane access to Washington waters • Promote safe and responsible seaplane operations • Foster communications among owners, operators, service providers and the community www.washingtonseaplanepilots.org

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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings

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Let’s Get Crabby

by Tom Tripp

Maybe it was a neighbor, a friend with a boat, or perhaps it was just a thought at the restaurant the other night while eating some succulent Dungeness crab—whatever the reason, you’ve decided to try your hand at crabbing.

We’ve got some great advice for you, direct from a crab’s worst friend.

Gabe Miller is a marine and fishing gear buyer in Seattle, for Sportco and Outdoor Emporium, at least during the work week. But in his free time, he loves to splash that red and white buoy and plan the perfect crab dinner.

More on the dinner later. I asked Gabe what we need to get started in recreational crabbing. Turns out, it doesn’t have to be expensive, but there are some specific pieces of gear and some techniques to learn.

First, says Miller, start online with the regulatory authority where you live. In Washington and Alaska, it’s the Fish 70

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and Wildlife Service. In BC, it’s Fisheries and Oceans Canada. The seasons vary and are specific to the waters you plan to crab. Pay attention to limits and gear rules, too. For example, that red and white buoy is how you know there’s a crab pot below in Puget Sound.

As far as gear goes, Miller says it depends on whether you’ll be crabbing from a pier or from a boat. From the pier, you’ll want to crab in water that’s at least 10-15 feet deep and Miller suggests a simple crab ring, which lays flat and open on the bottom, enticing your dinner to walk into the middle to nibble on the bait, whereupon you haul in the line, raising the sides of the ring to trap the crabs and bring it all to the surface. Miller says you don’t have to spend a lot. A crab ring, for example, will run you from $15 to $40 or so and comes with a harness to keep the lift vertical. You probably won’t need extra weight in the

ring and typically you will stand by and haul it up to check fairly often.

Crabbing from a boat is a little more complicated, but potentially more rewarding. From a boat, you will be using

a full crab pot. Gabe Miller says inexpensive, collapsible pots can cost as little as $20, but you could spend as much as $200 for bigger and heavier commercial styles.

You can certainly get a pot, appropriate non-floating

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71

leaded rope, and buoy for $50, says Miller.

Obviously, you’ve got to bait these traps and therein lies an opportunity. Stop by a local bait shot shop near you and spend a few minutes talking to the staff about where people are catching crab and what bait they’re using. Not only will you get to know about various crab bait, but you’ll get the most important thing about crabbing—the location of the crabs. That kind of local knowledge is essential—you can spend hours dropping pots in a spots that don’t produce, when the dinner-lode is only a few hundred meters away.

Miller says that when he goes out on the boat, he spreads his pots out a bit and checks on them fairly soon to determine “where they are.” Miller likes turkey thighs or pieces of salmon carcasses for bait. Razor clams and squid work too. Some crabbers, like Miller, like to

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“marinate” their bait with an attractant for a couple of hours before filling the bait box.

Deep-water crabbing from a boat will typically require weight added to the pot; more for deeper water and stronger currents and sometimes as much as 20 pounds.

Remember to use leaded rope, not poly, which floats and can be a navigational hazard. And be sure to account for rising tides when you decide how much rope to use between pot and buoy.

Now that you’re back home with your fresh crab, how will you cook it? Gabe Miller will bring a five-gallon pail of salt water back up to the house, add a combination of Johnny’s and Old Bay seasonings and boil ‘em up. Let us know your favorite recipe.

[Send us your favorite crab recipe and we’ll put them in the May/June issue of HARBORS.]

PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)

HAR B OR S

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Destinations

Seaplane & Boating

Canterbury Inn, Ocean Shores, WA

Popcorn, movie night, dog biscuits and visiting deer make The Canterbury Inn a special delight.

When it first opened 50 years ago, the Canterbury Inn was hailed as “Ocean Shores’ most lavish and varied hotel-condominium-apartment enterprise to date”—the first $1 million building ever constructed along that stretch of Washington’s Pacific coast.

A lot has changed in 50 years— property values, for one. But guest expectations in this beachfront resort have changed as well. Where a pair of bath towels once sufficed for a week, nowadays room guests may go through three or four a day—and not just for 74

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themselves; Fido needs toweling off also after a playing in the surf and sand.

General Manager Shannon Rubin is only too happy to oblige. Since she took over in the spring of 2016, her aim has been to make the Canterbury Inn the cleanest, most family-friendly and pet-friendly resort along Ocean Shores’ hotel row. Not an easy thing to achieve. As property values skyrocketed, and the resident population aged, affordable housing for those engaged in relatively low-wage occupations such as housekeeping, retailing and services has become scarce. The nearest local labor market is a 40-minute drive away in Hoquiam and Aberdeen,

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By Sean Griffin

and almost every business you talk to frets about the challenges of meeting labor needs.

Shannon thinks she has found some of the best staff, and she thinks that’s why the Canterbury Inn’s ranking among the resorts along hotel row has gone from No. 8 to No. 1 on TripAdvisor.com in the time she’s been there. “We’re like a close-knit family.

Our staff take a lot of pride in their work. They care about each other and about our guests.”

Among the family-friendly amenities: a parent’s night off on Fridays, where the kids can come to the common room, watch a movie and dine on

popcorn, all under the watchful eye of a staff member. There is an ongoing treasure hunt, involving a stuffed deer who may be hidden anywhere on the premises. The stuffed animal has a note attached, instructing the finder to bring it to the front desk for a prize, such as a bottle of bubbles. There is an abundance of board games and a lovely indoor pool and jacuzzi for those who find the Pacific Ocean hereabouts a tad too cool for bathing.

Fido gets a watering dish, a dog biscuit and several special towels, and its owner gets a supply of plastic bags for picking up after Fido.

No two rooms at the Canterbury Inn are alike. That’s because it’s a condominium development that is operated as a hotel, with nearly as many owners as there are rooms. Owners are permitted to stay two weeks a year and are responsible for furnishings and themes.

They’ll get contacted by Shannon if an upgrade is needed. She leaves it to the owner to replace a sofa, for example, or she’ll volunteer to find a replacement at the owner’s expense. Some rooms have themes, such as the Octopus Room.

Many have beach themes, such as the room I stayed in recently. The thirdfloor unit had views of the beach from both the bedroom and living rooms, as well as the kitchen.

One of the most valued Canterbury experiences comes courtesy of the deer that abound on the grounds, which are well accustomed to the visitors.

While guests are cautioned that the deer are wild, they are so accustomed to humans that they will often accept a gift of an apple or carrot.

InnCanterbury at Port Gardner Inn

1700 W Marine View Drive 643 Ocean Shores Blvd.

NW Everett, WA 98201 Ocean Shores, WA 98569 425.252.6779 360.289.3317 innatportgardner.com www.canterburyinn.com

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Wisteria Guest House, Salt Spring Island, BC

Operating the Wisteria Guest House on Salt Spring Island is a family affair.

Owners, Beverly and Len Brown figured they were just about the perfect couple to take over a run-down guest house that had begun its life as a senior home and make a going concern of it. “It wasn’t anything special. All the walls were brown and wallpapered.

There was brown carpet with heavy brown drapes. The morning meal offered to guests was breakfast cereal.”

However, it was just a ferry or seaplane ride away from Vancouver, BC, where Beverly and Len had begun their life together.

Despite the condition of the Inn, they saw its potential, put forth a solid offer, and were disappointed when the two English ladies who owned it rejected it and sold the property to another bidder. But several months later, the guest house was on the market again. “The original buyers didn’t get the financing, because bankers know this kind of business is high risk,” Beverly said.

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Both Beverly and Len had backgrounds that might make a lender more comfortable with taking such a risk.

Both had been in the hospitality business for a long time—Beverly as the pastry chef at the Westin Hotel in New York’s Times Square; Len was a hotelier, including a stint as director of the Canadian Youth Hostel Association.

But they still had to convince the owners to sell to them. They enlisted the support of a real estate agent who sat down to tea with the ladies, then reported his findings to the Browns.

“They’re not taking your offer seriously, so you’re fifth and sixth in line among the potential buyers,” the agent told them. The stumbling block was that Beverly and Len lived so far away, in Hoboken, New Jersey. They owned a house there. It would have to sell, and that takes time, and the owners of the guest house didn’t want to wait.

“The agent told us that on a Monday,” Len said. “On Friday, we put the house on the market and sold it the following Monday.” Their agent

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by Sean Griffin

took the ladies to tea a second time, told them about the house sale and the seriousness of Len and Beverly’s interest. Their standing rose to No. 1, and they closed the deal.

That was the fall of 2003. Beverly, her daughter Kimoko, eight cats and a dog drove for 2½ weeks from Hoboken to Ganges, Salt Spring Island, British Columbia. Len remained behind during the off season to make sure there was a revenue stream continuing.

There was plenty of remodeling to do. The complex had six guest rooms, two studios and a cottage. Kimoko busied herself removing wallpaper.

Eventually Kimoko returned to New York City, working in the Finance industry, and she met and married Joe Egan, who led a production team for the A&E Network. This spring, both relocated to Salt Spring Island and work at the Wisteria.

As the remodel was in progress, guests started arriving in dribs and drabs, initially from the province, but in time from all over the world. When a popular

Japanese pop star told fans about her wonderful stay here, there was a sudden onslaught of guests from Japan.

On a recent stay, I met Lee, an elegant British-born mother who has lived in Whitehorse, Yukon for many years and ventured south to visit her daughter. There was Robert, a university professor from Eugene, Oregon, who was accompanied on this trip by his bicycle for exploring the island; and the amiable Darryl and Shary Ruff, a Kelowna, BC couple, who insisted on driving us about the island and entertained us by tickling the ivories on one of Ganges’ public pianos.

This was the Ruff’s second visit to The Wisteria Guest House. “We came because of our experience last year, and the breakfasts are absolutely stunning,” Shary said.

Breakfast entrees included: Dutch baby pancakes—a puffed fruit pastry with Greengage plums baked into it; Greek style eggs, with spinach, feta cheese and smoked salmon, accompanied by a salad and lemon rosemary potatoes; or authentic Swiss muesli, followed by scrambled eggs, bacon and French toast with berries. Many of the ingredients are from the garden on the grounds of the guesthouse.

As scrumptious as the food is, to Beverly that’s not what it’s all about.

“It’s about people making connections with each other,” she said. She often seats people in the dining area next to each other because she thinks friendships might form. In our case, she succeeded, and we have since traded Facebook friendships, emails and photos with the Ruffs.

Wisteria Guest House 268 Park Drive Salt Spring Island, BC V8K2S1 Canada

www.wisteriaguesthouse.com

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Pacific Sands Beach Resort, Tofino, BC

by Pat Awmack

By Pat Awmack

With blankets wrapped warmly around us and wineglasses in hand, my friends and I have settled into the Sand Dollar Suite at the Pacific Sands Beach Resort in Tofino, B.C., and are taking full advantage of our beachfront location. We are ensconced in a row of Adirondack chairs on the west-facing deck, for a front-row seat to the fiery oranges and reds of a spectacular February sunset.

Four girlfriends and I have booked the resort’s winter storm-watching package, but it’s turning out to be a weekend of stunningly beautiful weather and we’re in a prime location to enjoy it. Our two-bedroom suite, with its wraparound deck, is only a few feet from the sands of beautiful Cox Bay, renowned for its surfing and tidal pools.

The family-owned resort, with its 1,000 feet of beachfront, was purchased in 1972 by the Pettinger family and after 40-plus years under their ownership, has only recently changed 78

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hands to new owner, Gordon Nelson, a Vancouver-based entrepreneur. The suites and beach houses that comprise the resort sit on 40 acres and are a short drive from both Long Beach and the charming seaside town of Tofino.

With its vaulted ceilings and floorto-ceiling view of the ocean, our suite in the beachfront building is spacious and comfortable. While the bathroom fixtures could do with some updating, everything is spotlessly clean. There’s a fully equipped kitchen (with complimentary Tofino Coffee Company coffee!), a gas BBQ on the deck, a gas fireplace in the living room and enough rain slickers for all of us. With a queen bed in one bedroom and a king in the other, four of us enjoy the comfy pillow-top mattresses while the fifth sleeps on the queen-sized sofa bed in the living room.

As this is a signature suite, it has own personal hot tub on the outside deck—quite a treat, as we all retire there after dinner to soak and listen to

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the constant roar of the ocean on the nearby shore. A stay in one of the newer beach houses—which have the option of one, two, or three bedrooms— includes upgraded amenities such as a gourmet kitchen, a double soaker-tub, 300-thread count sheets, down duvets and pillows, a fireplace in the master bedroom and in-suite laundry.

Each suite or house comes complete with at least one flat-screen TV and a DVD player. Bring your own DVDs or borrow from the 500-movie library in the main office. It’s requested that you make a donation of $2 to the Raincoast Interpretive Centre in lieu of a rental fee. Although we had the best of intentions and planned to watch movies, we found long walks on the beach and the crisp ocean air a strong soporific, and were all in bed by 10:00 pm every night.

The main office also houses a 24hour coin-operated laundry and an Espresso bar as well as heaps of board games, beach toys and boogie boards.

Bike rentals are available, allowing you

to take advantage of the paved bike path into Tofino. Although complimentary Wi-Fi is available throughout the resort.

Pacific Sands, with its expanse of lawn, easy access to the beach, and kids’ camps and s’mores roasts during the peak months of July and August, is a perfect location for a family vacation. At camp, kids will learn coastal survival skills, go on nature walks, and learn about the local sea life.

The resort is a favorite for girls’ weekends, but also as a romantic getaway for couples—and it really is the perfect place for dog owners to vacation with their pet. Certified as a pet-friendly resort, the resort welcomes furry friends by providing them dog dishes, treats and pet towels. There are even pet-wash stations, handy when your dog has been cavorting on the beach.

There is no restaurant on-site, but every suite does have a kitchen. We’ve dined at the Sandbar Bistro at neighboring Long Beach Lodge in the past, and on this visit we drove five minutes into Tofino to dine at Wolf in the Fog, voted Canada’s Best New Restaurant for 2014 by Air Canada’s enRoute Magazine. I highly recommend both restaurants.

Getting to Tofino involves a ferry from Vancouver and a three-hour drive across Vancouver Island. Or you can fly, on either a charter or scheduled flight, into the Tofino airport or Tofino Harbor. Contact the resort to book the complimentary shuttle from either.

Pacific Sands Beach Resort 1421 Pacific Rim Highway PO Box 237 Tofino, BC V0R 2Z0 800.565.2322 www.pacificsands.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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Always wear a properly fitted life jacket.

Always operate your boat at a safe speed.

Be sure to have the proper safety equipment on your boat and maintain it.

When operating a boat never drink alcohol.

Know the laws “rules of the water” for boat owners.

Take a boating safety course.

Learn to swim. Know how to rescue yourself and others.

Be conscious of environmental issues: fueling, habitat damage, and wildlife harassment.

Avoid making too much noise. Boat operators need to hear signals and warnings of danger.

At all times be aware of your surroundings, including weather conditions, waves, currents, storms, fog, etc.

Check the weather forecast for your destination.

Plan clothing, equipment and supplies accordingly.

Travel responsibly on designated waterways and launch your watercraft in designated areas.

Comply with all signs and barriers. This includes speed limits, no-wake zones, and underwater obstructions.

Make every effort to always go boating with a partner.

Make sure you have your owner’s manual and registration on board in waterproof containers.

Make sure you have enough fuel and oil for the entire trip.

Always have a designated lookout to keep an eye out for other boaters, objects, and swimmers.

Always carry a Coast Guard approved working fire extinguisher.

Know your limitations. Apply sunscreen, drink lots of water, and watch your energy level.

Know the distress signals and warning symbols.

Always travel slowly in shallow waters and avoid boating in water less than 2.5 feet deep. High speeds near shorelines lead to large wakes which cause shoreline erosion.

Do your part by leaving an area better than you found it, properly disposing fuel, oil and waste, avoiding the spread of evasive species and restoring degraded areas.

Join a local boating enthusiast’s organization.

Boater education prevents accidents and saves lives. Whether or not their state or province requires it, all boaters have a responsibility to learn about boat operation, communications, navigation, and lifesaving techniques before taking to the water. Statistics bear out what logic suggests—those without boater education put themselves and others at risk.

—American Boating Association | HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine HARBORS |

photo by: Doug Wilson

BOATING SAFETY TIPS

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