HARBORS Winter 2011 by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle. HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com Winter 2011

South Lake Union Seattle’s Revitalized Historic Neighborhood

Learn to Fly a Seaplane

Victoria’s Secret Clayoquot

San Juan Vineyards San Juan Island

Wilderness Resort, BC

Steelhead Fishing

Olympic Peninsula

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On the Olympic Peninsula The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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WINTER 2011

Features

South Lake Union

Clayoquot Puts the “Wild” in Wilderness Resort

A Revitalized Historic Neighborhood Sparkles with New Life

An Ultimate Adventure Travel Destination

In Search of the Last Best Steelhead On Washington’s Olympic Peninsula

A Rich Family History

Kenmore Air Destination Maps

Victoria’s Secret

Northwest Clams

San Juan Vineyards

Winter Blackmouth Fishing Tips

2011 Winter Flyaway Destinations

Cover Photograph Neil Rabinowitz www.neilrabinowitz.com Aerial photo of South Lake Union from a Kenmore Air flight

The Kenmore Air Legacy

South Zone / North Zone

Abigail’s Hotel

Bounty from the Sand

Hosting Acres of Vineyard on San Juan Island

A Quick Lesson

Bird Rock Hotel, Port Ludlow Resort, Rosario Resort

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volume 2 issue 1 HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey GRAPHIC DESIGN Danny McEnerney EDITING Annika S. Hipple CONTRIBUTORS A.J. Hunt Allen Cox C. Marin Faure Crai S. Bower

Michael Fagin Robyn Roehm Cannon Roy Stevenson Terry W. Sheely

ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com

WEB DESIGN

workin’ man creative

PHOTO CREDITS Courtesy of:

Roger Ward, pg. 10 Vulcan Real Estate, pgs. 11-16 Anders Presterud, pg. 12 (upper left) Chase Jarvis, pg. 12 (lower left) Lara Swimmer, pg. 13 (both lower right) Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, pgs. 20-26 Terry Sheely, pgs. 28-31 Anglers Guide Service, pg. 29 Pete Harrison, pg. 31

C. Marin Faure, pgs. 32-35 Abigail’s Hotel, pgs. 40-44 Alan Bauer, pg. 41 Paul Bratescu, pgs. 46-49 San Juan Vineyards, pgs. 50-55 Bird Rock Hotel, pg. 58 Roy Stevenson, pg. 59 Rosario Resort and Spa, pgs. 60 and 61 Kenmore Air Harbors, pgs. 62 and 63

HARBORS magazine is printed by Mitchell Press, Vancouver, British Columbia.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper.

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To have HARBORS Magazine sent directly to your home send name and address with a check for $12 postage to All Ports Media, PO Box 1393, Port Townsend, WA 98368. © 2010 by All Ports Media Group All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.

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Happy New Year 2011 from HARBORS magazine!

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher

Welcome to HARBORS magazine and Happy New Year 2011. It is hard to believe another year has passed, but it’s great to have a new year ahead full of possibilities. The winter 2011 issue of HARBORS is full of great stories and articles on some exciting and spectacular destinations. Our main feature highlights the impressive transformation taking place in Seattle’s South Lake Union. The revitalization of this neighborhood has brought a new dimension to Lake Union’s waterfront. The article provides residents and visitors with a great resource for what the area now has to offer. We also take you to the west coast of Vancouver Island for a look at the beautiful Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, a truly unique destination for anyone seeking an adventure travel experience. Don’t miss the informative articles on steelhead fishing on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state and winter salmon fishing tips useful to even the most seasoned fisherman. Avid seaplane travel enthusiasts and anyone interested in aviation will enjoy the historical family legacy of Kenmore Air and a valuable resource on flight instruction for those ready to fulfill their dream of learning to fly over the waters of BC and WA. Check out the Kenmore Air maps in the center of the issue for all the great destinations Kenmore Air can take you to, and don’t forget to read the advertising because that will tell you what you’ll find once you get to the destination. We have a wonderful profile on a luxury boutique hotel in Victoria, a scenic wine tour of San Juan Vineyards in the San Juan Islands, and a great article offering more than you ever thought you would know about Northwest clams. With the winter months ahead of us there’s no better way to escape the gray skies and the hectic city pace than to take a quick Kenmore Air flight. You can be at any of our featured winter “flyaways” in less than one hour, for a weekend of cozy fireplaces, nature walks, salty fresh air marinas and beaches, unique and artful shopping and new dining experiences—certainly a great way to treat a special Valentine, but who needs an excuse to check out our relaxing winter destinations? Enjoy the magazine, the view and your destination!

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

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Welcome to Kenmore Air Several years ago, when we first considered approaching Alaska Airlines about a possible partnership, we weren’t sure we’d get a second meeting with them. After all, Alaska is one of the big boys, among the top U.S. airlines. And we...well, we’re not. Then I found, in a box of old company papers, an ice-breaker for our discussions. The yellowing lease agreements from 1954, 1955 and 1956 had been executed between Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc. (“Owner”) and Alaska Airlines, Inc. (“Renter”). Yes, surprising as it may now seem, Alaska Airlines used to lease seaplanes from Kenmore Air. So I went into our first meeting with Alaska knowing that our two companies already had a 50-yearold partnership. The question was, would anybody from the big airline care about such nostalgia? I think it says a lot about the appropriateness of our partnership with Alaska that they did care. The managers we met with were airplane people. They were proud of their airline’s historic role in opening up Alaska to the rest of the world, and although all that took place long before their time, they had the perspective to understand how a fabric-covered, radial-engined seaplane leased from a little air taxi operator in Seattle might have fit into that story. Moreover, they knew about Kenmore Air. They knew where we came from, what we do and where we fly. They understood the kind of relationship we have with our customers. None of this made ironing out the details of our partnership quick or easy. Getting our computers talking to their computers has sometimes seemed more complicated than a NASA moonshot. But we got it done through the hard work of a lot of dedicated people at both airlines who understood that this would be a good thing, not only for the companies, but for our mutual customers. With easy connections now available at AlaskaAir.com between our destinations and more than 90 Alaska and Horizon Air cities across North America, customers every day are learning the practical advantages of our partnership. But as importantly, Alaska is a good fit for us culturally. Like us, they are ever mindful of who pays the bills, and the frequent recognition they earn for industry-leading customer service proves the point. Like us, their roots in the Northwest go back decades. As always, thanks for flying Kenmore Air.

Todd Banks President

We’re proud to be associated with Alaska Airlines and a partner in their mileage plan.

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Aerial view from Kenmore Air’s “flightseeing” tour over South Lake Union.

A Revitalized Historic Neighborhood Sparkles with New Life

South Lake Union By Robyn Roehm Cannon

Sometime in the last couple of months, the realization hit me. Instead of giant holes in the ground and a multitude of cranes shadowing the Seattle skyline, I began to notice inhabitable towers of glass and steel, gracious avenues lined with trees, pedestrian plazas, wonderful shops and top restaurants appearing in the ever-evolving urban neighborhood Seattleites now refer to as “South Lake Union.” Though I live in the city, I’d never fully explored this revitalized area and was curious to see if the promise lived up to all the promotion. So one recent sunny afternoon, I put my dog Scarlett on a leash and set out for a leisurely stroll through the new 12-acre South Lake Union Park. It’s the longawaited waterfront centerpiece for the area’s vibrant mix of residential, retail, hospitality and high-tech business development—and proof positive that for a $20 million dollar investment, a glorious silk purse can emerge where a sow’s ear of under-utilized lakefront property sat empty for decades. There’s so much to be enjoyed in this beautifully redesigned green space, not the least of which is a colorful past that connects the heart of today’s South Lake Union with the soul of Seattle’s earliest settlers. As we walked across the Safeco footbridge linking the main park with the section along Westlake Avenue, I saw

much of that past recounted on narrative plaques embedded in the metal structure. It was great fun to stop and imagine what was here over a century ago, then look across the lawn to children frolicking in the fountain and a young couple launching a skiff rented from The Center for Wooden Boats for a romantic turn around the lake. Since it was Thursday, we stopped for fresh vegetables at the weekly Floating Farmer’s Market, which dur-

ing winter months moves onboard the main deck of the historic Virginia V, the last operational wooden steamer in the Puget Sound Mosquito Fleet that linked the islands and ports of Puget Sound in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Available for lake cruises, weddings and events on a chartered basis, the Virginia V is now moored alongside other storied vessels at Heritage Wharf, just outside the Naval Reserve building, which will one day

The annual South Lake Union Block Party demonstrates a true sense of community spirit.

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Local residents and visitors enjoying the new SLU Park providing a 360-degree view of South Lake Union and the surrounding Seattle city landscape.

Kenmore Air seaplane taking off from the South Lake Union seaplane terminal.

become the new home to the Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI). I glanced across the bay at Kenmore Air’s Lake Union terminal, where a seaplane was gliding across the water. Located adjacent to McCormick & Schmick’s Restaurant, Kenmore Air is

one of the longest-standing businesses still in existence on the shores of the lake. In addition to providing daily air service to the San Juan Islands, Victoria and beyond, Seattle’s iconic urban airline offers a spectacular tour of the

“Emerald City” that puts Lake Union in perspective with Puget Sound and Lake Washington. There’s simply no better way to get a sense of Seattle and its geographical landmarks than from a window seat in one of Kenmore’s seaplanes, which have taken off and landed on the lake right across from the new park since 1946. Back on dry land, a great introduction to the history of South Lake Union, a roadmap of all the development that has changed the area in recent years and a summary of the myriad amenities available today can be found under one roof at the South Lake Union Discovery Center, located at the corner of Westlake Avenue and Denny Way. That was my next stop. Although the Discovery Center is

Local residents enjoying a day on the water navigating through the many boats mored at South Lake Union Marina. The 2200 Westlake mixed-use project features a Whole Foods Market at street level and an array of shops and restaurants in the upper plaza. A public art piece commissioned by Vulcan Real Estate for the project called Baladeuse, created by Northwest artist James Harrison.

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Sailing on South Lake Union is an everyday event for local boaters, especially when the sun is out.

in large part a showcase for Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen’s retail/residential buildings managed by Vulcan Real Estate, including Veer Lofts, Enso and Alley 24, it is well worth a visit even if you’re not in the market for an urban condo. Allen was the visionary behind the redevelopment of five contiguous South Lake Union neighborhoods that are physically bounded in all directions by Interstate 5, Lake Union, Highway 99/Aurora Avenue and Denny Way. 14

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In fact, he claimed such a foothold that the area was locally dubbed “Vulcanville”—although that nickname is fading as the infrastructure evolves and a mosaic of more than 100 independent businesses fills in the streetscape. Either way, the Discovery Center offers a fascinating peek into Seattle’s past as well as its future, with a visual timeline that starts in 1851 and projects into 2020, when according to Vulcan’s timetable this current phase of South Lake Union’s redevelopment is predicted to be finished.

Local historian, Seattle Times Sunday columnist and author Paul Dorpat has done a masterful job of collecting old photos and developing a “history wall” that shows Seattle’s early settlers, who operated thriving businesses for generations in many of the South Lake Union buildings that are now being regentrified—and swam and picnicked with their families on the shores of the lake during leisure hours. It gives credence to the fact that this neighborhood was once as bustling as it is again today, and the new development is

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so much richer for that past. Another great reason to stop off at the Discovery Center is to snag a South Lake Union Card, which entitles the bearer to discounts and frequently changing offers at most of the area’s retail shops and restaurants, which are noted on a cleverly designed interactive map linking directly to their website at www.discoverslu.com. I put a card in my pocket and carried on. Right across the street from the Discovery Center, at 2200 Westlake

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Plaza, is one of Trip Advisor’s “Top Best 25 Small Luxury Hotels in the USA,” the AAA Four Diamond Pan Pacific. When the stylish hotel/residential tower was built a few years ago, it was a bit of a lonely soldier waiting for the troops to arrive, but today, this luxurious, green-minded, pet-friendly high rise is the gatekeeper of the South Lake Union neighborhood. The graciously appointed lobby is filled with a wonderful collection of local glass art, while suites and guest rooms offer bright interiors filled with natural light, gorgeous spa bathrooms and unequalled views of the Space Needle and the lake. Simply named, The Bar off Pan Pacific’s lobby is a perfect spot for a late afternoon cocktail. Right next door, sushi and sashimi are prepared sparkling fresh before you at Sea Star Restaurant and Raw Bar. In the upper Westlake Plaza, I often love to grab a seat at the long wooden counter at Tutta Bella and chat up the chefs—it’s one of very few authentic Neapolitan pizzerias certified by the prestigious Associazione Verace Pizza. Although the menu offers a broad selection of apple wood-fired pizzas, calzoni and other Italian classics, my stand-by is their excellent Pizza Insalata Napoli with homemade gelato for dessert. After that it’s probably time to burn off those calories in a Power Vinyasa Yoga class at Be Luminous Yoga across the courtyard. Or I could just detox at the luxurious Vida Wellness Spa in one of their Ayurvedic steam cabinets next door. So many choices! But with Scarlett in attendance, my attentions are focused on Scraps, a bakery and high-fashion boutique for spoiled pets where her favorite “flossies” are sold. With the relocation of James Beard Award–winning chef Christine Keff’s famous Flying Fish restaurant from Belltown and Tom Douglas soon adding more than 20,000 square feet to his culinary empire between two Vulcan properties at Westlake and Harrison and Thomas and Terry, you’ll find no 16

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Stop by the SLU Discovery Center and ask for a free SLU Card. You can use it to score discounts at shops, restaurants, and events throughout the neighborhood.

shortage of spots to wine, dine or sip a latte. Currently, there are in excess of 45 restaurants and cafés in the South Lake Union neighborhood, with more planned for the future. (www.discoverslu.com/eat-drink) The Seattle Streetcar links South Lake Union and the park to the downtown core at Westlake Center. With street cars arriving at 15-minute intervals and 11 neighborhood stops, there’s no need for a car or the hassle of parking it. Visit www.seattlestreetcar.org/map for full details.

Although there’s much to be done in the next decade, South Lake Union is off to a great start. To explore the area, take a walking tour with the Seattle Architecture Foundation, (www.seattlearchitecture.org/tour_slu.html) jump onboard the streetcar—or like Scarlett and I did, simply take a walk and poke around for yourself. You’ll discover any number of treasures, friendly folk and art-filled places to linger, inside and out, on the reenvisioned streets of this historic district. Be it for a day or a lifetime, the promise—and the experience—is grand.

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Clayoquot Puts the “Wild” in Wilderness Resort By Crai S. Bower

“In wildness is the preservation of the world” – Henry David Thoreau Not every passenger is able to recognize Clayoquot Wilderness Resort as the floatplane descends towards Clayoquot Sound, concluding its flight over the breathtaking mountains of Vancouver Island. Proprietor Cowboy John Caton prefers his resort to disappear within its environment. In the 10 years since John and his wife, Adele, took over the former mining and logging site, they’ve worked diligently to return the property to its wild state. Environmental revitalization is but one element of Clayoquot’s allure, however. Cowboy John, together with his staff of 45 (for a maximum of just 40 guests!), has also crafted a green theme park unlike any other ecotourist destination in North America.

Outpost deluxe guest tents are roomy, great white canvas prospector-style quarters built on discreetly-situated raised wooden platforms. Tents are connected by cedar boardwalks, and are hidden under a canopy of the rainforest along the water’s edge or perched “Swiss Family Robinson style” amongst the hillside trees.

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John & Adele Caton

An Ultimate Adventure Travel Destination

Dockside, a team of Belgian draft horses awaits to ferry us back to the main camp, quiet now because no guests have chosen the billiards or library tents over canoeing, mountain biking or, in the case of twin 4-yearolds, return trips to kayak Bedwell River, with each child tucked safely within the embrace of a seasoned guide. Only dogs nap in the sunken chairs that form a half circle around the walk-in fireplace in the outdoor living room. I’ve arrived just in time for lunch: barbecued bison burger with chipotle mayo, salmon chowder and all the chocolate cookies I can eat. (Actually, there are never limits on food or drink for guests.) Cowboy John presents a quick orientation to the property, including his trademark “Bear Aware” speech. He keeps a pack of hounds on the property, trained to harass but not threaten or attack the juvenile male black bears that occasionally meander through the area. Lunch and bear awareness class complete, Cowboy John lays out two-dozen soft adventure options. I can kayak the river, rock climb, shoot some skeet or try my hand with a bow and arrow, all before lunch. There are challenging mountain bike trails and deep sea fishing excursions; an 18year old guest landed a 21-pound King salmon the day I arrived.

The all-natural log structure and furnishings along with the stone fireplace in the main dining room create a rustic warm ambiance welcomed by guests after a day of activity outdoors. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

My itinerary set, I visit my tent for the first time, isolated at the terminus of the alderwood boardwalk, perched high on the banks of the tidal Bedwell River, fronted by Adirondack chairs. Inside the tent, the willowbranch bed also suggests a siesta (I’ll succumb

after tomorrow’s dawn salmon fishing expedition), but I gather my water bottle and quickly return to the activities building to launch a strenuous mountain bike ride. The greatest challenge of this trip, however, remains avoiding the dining

hall, where the bakery’s oven is always going, and there is usually a cook on call to prepare a custom meal. (Beer and wine are also always available for the taking.) I realize that the longer I spend on my adventures, the less I will imbibe. Thus I’ll depart early tomorrow morning on a fishing trip upon Clayoquot Sound, follow it up with a tour into the Pacific Ocean to look for sea lions and gray whales, and conclude with a hike on the fivemile “Walk on the Wild Side” trail. When I return from a ride and hike to the top of Angel Falls, the kitchen is mine, all mine. Or at least it feels that way as I sidle up to the open fires and settle onto a bar stool to find a glass of champagne waiting patiently.

“I want my grandchildren and their grandchildren to experience this place as it once was, with wolves chasing elk, the bear returned to their original number, and the salmon runs forming the calendar for the community.”

Several fireplace settings are scattered throughout the resort, offering cozy warm areas to sit and take in the tranquility.

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I sample three entrées from chef Tim May’s menu. The seared and misoglazed local albacore tuna is excellent. I request a little more wild rice and field-mushroom-stuffed boar chop. Satiated with triple-chocolate mousse and an Okanagan Valley ice wine, I can’t help but envy Tim and his wife, along with Cowboy John and Adele, and John’s two boys and their families who have chosen to homestead this land. “I want my grandchildren and their grandchildren to experience this place as it once was, with wolves chasing elk, the bear returned to their original number, and the salmon runs forming the calendar for the community,” Cowboy John explains. Clayoquot follows environmental protocol in every aspect of its daily

Daily wilderness activities are highly personalized and customized based on each guestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experience level, willingness and desires. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

Chef Timothy May insists on supporting the local economy by buying fresh, letting the very nature of the region inspire exploration of a more natural method of preparation.

operations. The minimal impact is obvious as we ride painted horses beneath the hemlocks and Douglas firs, a verdant canopy through which dappled sunlight sneaks onto the trail like a 13-striped chipmunk. I cast into the river for a couple of hours, catching nothing but enveloped in the rushing sound of the two rivers merging. Not surprisingly, this stretch of river elicits the loudest whoops and hollers when I join several others for a little whitewater kayaking. On this adventure one must control panic more than one’s paddle, and I just manage the fragile dance between adrenaline and fright. Though this river is fairly tame, the guides undergo extensive water rescue instruction in case there is any unforeseen mishap.

Clayoquot follows environmental protocol in every aspect of its daily operations.

Modern natural cuisine is an easy way to explain the chef’s philosophy of clean, simple, fresh food.

Family tents offer queen-bed comfort and are furnished with a convertible chesterfield and a larger lounge area with a small games table.

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Each guide offers expertise in a specific area, but Cowboy John believes it is part of the sustainability model that each staff member develop expertise concerning all elements of the environment. Therefore, he closes the resort for one week in the spring and invites experts in topics ranging from flora to geology to local First Nations culture to teach his staff in intensive three-day, 30-hour courses. “If someone on my staff is talking to a guest and he asks the name of this flower or what that rock formation over there is called, the staff member has to be able to answer,” declares Cowboy John. “It’s the only way we are going to lead others to understand the connectedness of this environment.” That evening I settle into my final dinner (beef tenderloin and Dungeness crab), as well as an exceptional bottle of Kettle Valley méritage, pleasantly exhausted from a day spent

“In wildness is the preservation of the world” – Henry David Thoreau

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Unexpected comforts in a wilderness setting. R

E S O R T

& S

P A

PENDER ISLAND, BC, CANADA

Poets Cove Harbor Magazine Fall outlines.indd 1

8/19/2010 3:43:08 PM

All 11 deluxe tents offer a choice of one queen or two single Adirondackstyle beds with lush down duvets.

casting and riding and paddling. My musings are interrupted by murmurs from diners facing the large lawn that yawns toward the estuary. A young male black bear has meandered down to the shoreline, not more than 50 meters away. As we move to the porch to get a better look, I suspect this young boar doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even realize his evening stroll is providing the entertainment for our cluster of admirers. 26

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The scene plays, I realize, exactly as Cowboy John Caton intended. The Details: Clayoquot Wilderness Resort www.wildretreat.com Box 130 Tofino, BC, Canada (888) 333-5405

Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004 With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport

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In Search of the Last Best Steelhead

Fishing on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula

By Terry W. Sheely

Like a long looping cast of wet black fly line U.S. Highway 101 on the Olympic Peninsula unrolls through the dreams and ambitions of fishermen, meandering across the last best rivers of steelhead and salmon in Washington state. Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah, Hoh, Queets, Quinault, Clearwater—these internationally famous river names are as revered in Europe and Asia as in New York, Detroit and Seattle. The dark, deep rivers roll downhill through boulder gardens, rapids and riffling tailouts flowing out of mountainous glacier basins, the critical headwaters of a dozen great rivers. These rivers host sea-run fish that shatter records, spool reels and leave fishermen shaking and grateful. I have my rod, a good 10-weight, waders and boxes of big wet flies. I’m not yet sure where I’ll stop. There is a cathedral quality to this place, with towers of conifers and old-growth maple, clearings where elk graze and a green that sparkles with raindrops and could humble emeralds. The rivers hold 20- and 30-pound steelhead, chinook salmon that will bottom-out 50-pound scales, coho to brag about and so many sockeye and chum that few count them. Big fish. Two seasons ago Peter Harrison swung a homegrown Spey fly dubbed the English Pete Number 1 into a sullen piece of water on the Hoh River and into the record books. 28

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Forks outfitter/guide Bob Kratzer (left) and a client probe a choice run of winter steelhead water.

When the screaming 200-yard run was over, when the 45 minutes of thrashing and splashing were finished, a gorgeous steelhead was at the bank, a giant that weighed 31½ pounds at Olympic Sporting Goods in Forks. It was officially certified at 29½, the largest winter steelhead taken anywhere by fly with an eight-kilogram (17.6-pound) tippet. It’s record-book country, one of the last places in America where wild steelhead populations support catchand-eat fisheries, although catch-andrelease is strongly advocated, and the regulation is hotly debated. This is a place apart. Peninsula fishing guide Pat Neal (www.patnealfishermansprayer.com) describes his remote home waters as “a hundred years from nowhere,” then teases me with Sol Duc River success that includes a trio of 20-pound plus

late-winter steelhead. curve of most anglers, helping them The town of Forks (population take giant steps toward hookups. These 5,000) is the river-fish capital of the rivers are all best fished from boats, Peninsula and the bunkhouse for a yet with an amateur on the oars they bevy of talentcan be dangerous ed steelhead rock-banging and salmon tests. guides. (www. The forecast for olympicpeninForks area fishing sulaguidesasgoes something sociation.com) like this: floods, It’s a place droughts, squalls where doubleand windstorms, ended drift yet always with The silver challis: a fine winter buck boats and hipthe hope of clearsteelhead. booted pedesing. trians are more common than traffic Runs of rare summer coho (silver) lights, and where Bob Gooding deliv- salmon attract anglers, especially to ers the latest where-and-how informa- the Sol Duc, in August and continue tion across the counter at Olympic through October, when fall silvers arSporting Goods (360-374-6330). rive. Summer coho average 10 to 12 A drift-boat float with a steelhead pounds and are easily caught in the guide lops decades off the learning seasonally low water. The Sol Duc is The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Both bank anglers and drift boat steelheaders can share most Peninsula rivers.

the best for summer silvers. The Peninsulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest fish arrive in late October, when a surge of chinook and coho salmon hit the rivers. Fall chinook can exceed 60 pounds and average around 30. The fall coho weigh 10 to 20 pounds and swarm into Peninsula rivers right behind the kings. On fishing trips in late October and early November itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s common to catch kings and silvers, plus overlaps of late summer steelhead, sea-run cut-

throat and bull trout. The later into November, the greater the numbers of ocean coho rolling in the rivers and free-jumping in pools. These late silvers are the biggest of the year, great hook-beaked cohos. December turns primarily to steelhead. First are the hatchery returns dominated by seven to 10 pounders, progressively replaced by bigger wild fish that peak in late February and continue into April.

Terry Jarmain releases a bright, late winter steelhead.

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The Sol Duc delivers year-round wild and hatchery steelhead, plus summer and fall coho, fall chinook, sockeye, chum, pink salmon, cutthroat and bull trout. Almost two thirds of Duc steelhead are wild fish in the 15 to 20 pound range. This is a good bank fishing option and a spectacular drift boat river, but it can be exceptionally tricky for novice boatmen. The Bogachiel is a legend among steelhead and salmon fishermen, flowing along Highway 101 to join the Sol Duc a few miles west of Forks. Anglers hit the Bogey for winter steelhead, spring and fall chinook, and a solid run of fall coho. The late fall chinook fishery is coveted for the monsters it produces.

The most consistent trophy steelhead river on the Peninsula is the Quinault. Another big name must-fish, the Hoh River is easily the top winter steelhead river on the Peninsula. A wide, powerful, deep sullen river, it starts high in the icefields on Mount Olympus and drops until it reaches the ocean 15 miles west of Forks. The river along Highway 101 hides summer and winter steelhead; cutthroats; spring, summer and fall runs of kings; and fall coho. Huge numbers of hatchery steelhead return to the Hoh in January and February, followed by a solid surge of large wild steelhead that test tackle well into April. Hoh fishing is best when steelhead and mixed salmon runs overlap, from October through December. The most consistent trophy steelhead river on the Peninsula is the Quinault, a fishery managed by the Quinault Indian Nation. This is a

Steelhead are the glory fish on the Peninsula, but salmon like this 21-pound Sol Duc River October coho are another reason that Lyle Brownell regularly makes the trip from Enumclaw, WA to Forks.

complicated river famous for delivering 25 to 30 pound steelhead, which for most steelheaders is the fish of a lifetime. For super-trophy fish, wait until February and March. Fishing the Quinault requires a tribal permit and a guide. Bob Kratzer, a guide and the owner of Anglerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide Service (www.anglersguideservice.com) in Forks, sends photos that make me drool, photos on every river around Forks that would make braggarts humble and humble anglers brag. As steelhead guide Pat Neal points out, the steelhead and salmon are only part of the Peninsulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charms. The other parts are adventure under glacier-crusted Olympic Mountains, rainforest silence, undammed rivers, curious otters, browsing elk, cathedrals of conifers, the occasional black bear on a gravel bar, soaring eagles and moss so deep a napping angler might well disappear into it. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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The Kenmore Air Legacy

A rich family history

By C. Marin Faure

Kenmore Air was started by two mechanics and a pilot and it should have gone out of business decades ago. There was no business plan, no growth plan, and no marketing plan. In fact, there was no plan at all. Six months into its first year of operation, the pilot and one of the mechanics were gone. The remaining mechanic pushed on alone, learning to fly and taking each day as it came.

Fifty-four years later, Bob Munro and the remarkable people he surrounded himself with were still at it. Only now, instead of a one-plane operation based in a chicken coop sagging into a mudhole, they are running the most successful seaplane airline in the world. But the future was the last thing on anybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind when on a crisp March day in 1946 Jack Mines, Reg

Collins and Bob Munro got their tiny floatplane ready to fly. Collins and Munro had purchased the half-rotten, wood-and-fabric Aeronca K for 300 dollars and had spent the last year of World War II rebuilding the plane in their garages. Neither man was interested in flying; they were mechanics, Seattle-born graduates of the famed Boeing School of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and they were

Kenmore Airâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first Cessna Caravan over the Seattle waterfront. 32

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spending the war as Naval Reserve machinist mates assigned to Pan American Airways’ air supply operation out of Boeing Field. Fiercely self-reliant, both men saw the labor union taking hold at Pan Am as an insult to the pride they took in getting every job done right, even if it meant working all night for no pay to get a plane ready to fly in the morning.

Bob Munro instinctively knew that an air service is not about airplanes, it’s about people. So they began thinking about setting up their own aircraft repair service as soon as the war ended. The pathetic remains of the Aeronca K would be their self-administered test to see if their skills were up to the task. While Collins and Munro were rebuilding the Aeronca, Jack Mines was piloting anti-submarine patrols in the Pacific. His friends had written him about their rebuild project, so when the war ended he lost no time in looking them up. “How soon do you think you’ll have this finished?” he asked as he walked around the partly assembled Aeronca. “Maybe a couple of months,” Collins replied. “What are you going to do with it when you’re done?” Munro shrugged. “Sell it, maybe, and get another one to fix up.” “Why don’t you go into business with it? Offer flight instruction, charter flights, things like that.” “Well, that’d be interesting, Jack,” Collins said, “but neither one of us knows how to fly.” “No, but I do. We could start a company. You guys would do the mechanical work and I’d do the flying.” And so the idea was born. They had an airplane; what they needed was a place to base it. It was Mines who found the spot, an abandoned shingle mill beside the north end of

Lake Washington in the tiny community of Kenmore. Fifteenyear-old Ted Huntley had been an enthusiastic helper during the restoration process and as he, Collins, and Munro watched Mines put the gleaming yellow Aeronca through its paces over the lake that March morning, a young man drove down from the highway and asked if they were offering flying lessons. Kenmore Air Harbor had its first customer. The company acquired a couple of battered two-seat Taylorcrafts, rebuilt them, and put them into the flight instruction fleet. The partners dredged the lake, built a seaplane ramp, and put in a dock. A chicken coop was dragged over and attached to the one-car garage on the property to create the Air Harbor’s office and shop complex. Returning GIs signed up for flight instruction by the dozens and the future was bright. Then, in July, Jack Mines died when his plane hit the trees while he was dropping supplies to a search party in the Cascades. Rather than fight with Mines’ widow over the division of company shares, Reg Collins gave his shares to Munro and departed for a job in California. Munro was left to go it alone and suddenly the future didn’t seem quite so rosy. Some people saw only obstacles when they looked around the old shingle mill property. The buildings were dilapidated, the ground was a bog, the seaplane ramp was too small, and the dock was inadequate. Munro saw the same things, but the didn’t

Bob Munro at the Boeing School of Aeronautics, 1941

see anything he couldn’t fix. And he saw something else that other people seemed to have missed. He saw the freedom to succeed. Decades later as Munro’s grandson, Todd Banks, prepared to shoulder the company’s operations as general manager, he found a piece of paper on which Munro had jotted four lines: Dedicate yourself to achieve success in whatever you do. Have your priorities in order. Be willing to take risks and be confident in your ideas. And don’t work necessarily for money but for accomplishment. This is how Bob and Ruth Munro had gone forward, taking things one day at a time. They surrounded themselves with people who shared their passion for doing a good job and who understood what “customer service” meant long before the phrase was discovered by high-priced consulting groups.

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The only known photograph of Jack Mines, Reg Collins, and Bob Munro at Kenmore. The plane is the Aeronca Model K that Collins and Munro rebuilt while working at Pan American.

Bob Munro fueling a company Taylorcraft.

The company’s charter flight operation was given a big boost in 1950 by a phone call from Enos Bradner, the outdoor editor of the Seattle Times. He wanted to hire Kenmore to fly him and a photographer to a river on Vancouver Island to see if the rumors of fantastic steelhead fishing were true. They were, and Bradner’s articles about his fly-in fishing adventures throughout the Pacific Northwest generated a steady stream of customers through the Kenmore office, a stream that continues to this day. As exciting as the fishing and hunting flights were, they paled beside the drama of the glacier flights. Snow and ice is an environment associated with skiplanes and helicopters, not floatplanes, but Munro and his pilots perfected the art of operating heavily loaded floatplanes from the surfaces 34

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A Kenmore Beaver being moved by one of the company-developed forklifts to the railcar for launching.

of living glaciers. Using a four-seat Seabee and a pair of monstrous Norduyn Norsemen, Kenmore flew an entire coppermine onto the surface of the Leduc Glacier in British Columbia. Lumber, fuel, diesel air compressors, dynamite, drill pipe, a small bulldozer, even a washing machine, were loaded, sometimes in pieces, into the planes and flown from a bay in Alaska to the glacier deep in the coast range. They did it again in the 1970s, supplying a research station high above the South Cascade Glacier in Washington. This time the planes were de Havilland Beavers but the challenge was no different and the setting no less spectacular. In the summers they landed on the postage-stamp of a lake at the foot of the glacier. In the winter, they landed on the glacier itself. But the most daring flights of

all were to the Blue Glacier on the summit of Mt. Olympus. The job here was to supply a University of Washington research project. The top of the glacier was large enough to land on, but not large enough to take off from. So the pilots pitched their Beavers over the edge, accelerating down the 45-degree slope of an icefall until the planes were going fast enough to fly. Of course, Kenmore was not just about backcountry adventure flights and pitching floatplanes off the sides of glaciers. As the company moved into its fourth decade of service, it began introducing scheduled flights to the most popular destinations in the San Juan Islands and along the lower reaches of the Inside Passage in British Columbia. In 1991, after a protracted struggle with a competitor that put even Bob Munro’s patience and business acumen to the test, Kenmore established a successful service to Victoria. And it wasn’t just the route network that was evolving. The company’s airplanes were, too. The bulbous Seabees and ponderous Norsemen of the 1950s had given way to Cessna 180s and de Havilland Beavers. The company made so many improvements to the Beavers—from larger windows in the rear of the cabin, to improved seats, to the seaplane fins on the tail—that wrecked or war surplus derelicts that had been run through the company’s total rebuild program came to be known the world over as “Kenmore Beavers.” It’s hard to believe that a simple engine swap could change the course of a company forever, but in 1991 that’s what happened at Kenmore. The Air Harbor had acquired N3125S, a de Havilland Otter, a plane with a wonderful capacity for passengers and cargo but with barely enough power to clear the Aurora Avenue bridge over Lake Union. Munro decided to take a risk and install a turbine engine in place of the plane’s troublesome radial engine. It was an expensive risk for a small company; the turbine kit cost more than

Kenmore Air Harbor, 1947. The company’s hangar sits on the site of the old shingle mill.

half a million dollars. But Kenmore needed the Otter to expand its service and that meant doing whatever it took to make it reliable and safe. As Chief Pilot Bill Whitney spooled up the newly installed turbine and powered Two-Five-Sierra away from the dock on its first jet-powered

flight, Kenmore Air Harbor grew up. The spray whipped up by Whitney’s departure erased forever the small floatplane operator at the north end of Lake Washington and replaced it with an airline. Even the name had changed. Where square letters had spelled out “Kenmore Air Harbor” there was now a new logo with rounded, more modern lettering that said simply, “Kenmore Air.” The four sentences Munro jotted down so long ago are not guidelines for staying the same, for playing it safe. They are guidelines which, if followed intelligently, lead to new opportunities. In 2004, the company saw just such an opportunity on the Olympic

Kenmore Air’s chicken coop corporate headquarters and one-car garage repair shop in the early 1950s.

A Kenmore Norseman and the Republic Seabee on the Leduc Glacier during the copper mine airlift.

Peninsula. With its icedraped mountains, sunbeamed rain forests, and the wheel and cry of gulls above the beach, the remarkable Peninsula is a victim of its own remoteness. At least two hours away from Seattle if the traffic in town cooperates, the Peninsula is just far enough away to make someone think twice about going, or leaving if they’re already there. Horizon Air’s announcement that it was suspending its longtime service to Port Angeles presented Kenmore Air with the growth opportunity it had been seeking. Because there are so many reasons to go there, the Peninsula needs dependable air service. So after almost 60 years in the seaplane business, Kenmore introduced its first landplane service, offering thirty-five minute flights between Seattle’s Boeing Field and Port Angeles with connecting complimentary shuttle bus service to Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. And Kenmore’s employees suddenly had a whole new forum for providing the kind of superior customer service Bob Munro had advocated from the beginning. Within months of launching the Port Angeles route, the landplane service— christened Kenmore Air Express— added routes to the San Juan Islands, providing an all-weather complement to the airline’s seaplane service. Today, nearly as many passengers fly annually on Kenmore Air Express as on Kenmore Air’s seaplanes. Ask a Kenmore employee how today’s Kenmore Air differs from the Kenmore Air Harbor that got its start with a clattering two-seater back in 1946, and they won’t know where to begin. But, in fact, the company hasn’t changed at all. Bob Munro instinctively knew that an air service is not about airplanes, it’s about people. From that first customer who braved the mud bog to sign up for flying lessons, to the businessman, kayaker or steelhead fisherman stepping onto the 7:30 Caravan for Port Angeles, Kenmore Air has never forgotten that they’re in the people business.

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Olympia to Nanaimo

South Zone Kenmore Air Destination Map

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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 â&#x20AC;˘ www.KenmoreAir.com

Nanaimo to Port Hardy

North Zone

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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 â&#x20AC;˘ www.KenmoreAir.com

Victoria’s Secret By A.J. Hunt

Abigail’s Classic Tailored Elegance Flying into Victoria’s Inner Harbour on a Kenmore Air seaplane is a thrilling entry to any winter escape. It takes no more than a glimpse to realize you are somewhere special. From the impressive European architectural rooftops to the boat-and-seaplane filled waterfront, British Columbia’s capital welcomes the most sophisticated of travelers. 40

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Visiting Victoria I felt like I was traveling through time to a special place, one with a flair that reminded me of places I’d visited in Europe. Walking through the streets and shops I met friendly people willing to share and educate me on their local heritage. Victoria is full of places to stay, from high-rise flagship hotels and resorts to vintage hostels and B&B’s, but I was

eager to check out a small hotel I had heard about called Abigail’s. From the marina I walked just a few blocks to a quiet cul-de-sac in the heart of the city, where I found my home for the next two days. It was conveniently located just three blocks from the Inner Harbour area and an easy walk to Victoria’s shopping district and many first-class restaurants and pubs. I couldn’t wait

Aerial view of the spectacular Inner Harbour of Victoria, BC as seen from a Kenmore Air flight.

to get down to the nearby world-class Royal BC Museum, which I knew was featuring some spectacular exhibits including local artist Emily Carr, as well as artifacts and artistry of local native cultures. But first I wanted to explore this gorgeous boutique hotel. Abigailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boasts heritage Tudor architecture and inviting English gardens that evoke the old-world

charm of downtown Victoria. Even the chilly winter weather could not diminish the charm and cozy comfort of this quaint oasis. I was told it was classified somewhere between a luxury bed and breakfast and a first-rate boutique hotel, but I could tell it had a unique style and personality of its own. As I walked through the ivy-covered entry I was struck by the personal touches

that created a comforting ambiance of being at home away from home. While my room was being readied, General Manager Nick Saklas, son of owner Ellen Cmolik, graciously gave me a personalized tour of the property and introduced me to his welcoming staff, all beaming with pride and professionalism. We visited several guestrooms, all of which featured soothing soaker baths, state-of-the-art shower fixtures, deluxe spa bathrobes, luxurious down duvets, rich fabrics and linens, and wood-burning fireplaces. I was amazed at how many complimentary in-room amenities there were, from wireless internet and flat screen TVs to DVD players and iPod docking stations. Each of the 23 guestrooms has its own distinct character, including Tiffany-style lamps and fresh-cut flowers in mosaic vases. Nick was very proud to announce that Abigailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a member of Select

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Abigail’s starts a social hour at 5 p.m. every night providing complimentary appetizers (menu changes daily) for all guests to enjoy.

The interior design creates a “special experience” that remains respectful of the beauty and luxury of the historic past, blended with the sophisticated modern comforts of the present.

Registry and Unique Inns, and the staff continually strives to maintain the highest standard of quality and conveniences to ensure each stay is superb. After just a brief tour of the hotel I felt a strong sense of history, romance and relaxation, and could hardly wait to get settled in my own room. That evening I started out with a visit to the library adjacent to the lobby. It was beautifully decorated with overstuffed plush fabric furnishings, the perfect setting to relax and read a favorite novel or sit with friends and visit over a glass of wine or cup of tea. At 5:00 p.m. daily the chef lays out a complimentary spread of gourmet hors d’oeuvres for guests to enjoy before venturing out for a night on the town. What a surprise it was to see what a feast the chef had prepared: Brie, fresh sliced fruits, stuffed mushrooms and an array of homemade relishes and garnished vegetables. This was not your 42

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typical cheese-and-crackers snack. Soon thereafter, Nick appeared again to pour wine for guests, at a very reasonable $5.00 per glass, while sharing some history of the hotel structure and renovation of the library. I was particularly intrigued by the story of the freestanding bar cabinet in the library. You would never guess that it was purchased secondhand and became the catalyst for the design of the entire library interior, with its very own Victoria secret—a secret hinge on the cabinet whose reputed magical powers made for an amusing story. After a few hours walking around the downtown area and checking out the local night scene I returned to my room and enjoyed my very own bedside fire and a soothing hot whirlpool bath. I couldn’t help but think this was the most relaxed I had been for months. The next morning I started my day with a three-course gourmet break-

fast courtesy of Chef Matt McGinn, who is very involved with the sustainable culinary movement and uses only fresh locally grown ingredients in all his meal preparations—a true recipe for success in creating the ultimate in

Guests find a perfect balance of old and new in Abigailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spacious library, the perfect place to relax in comfort.

gourmet cuisine. The smell of freshbaked bread filled the hallways as I made my way to the cozy breakfast room at the bottom of the main lobby staircase. Had I wanted a lazy morning in bed or a luxurious morning picnic

in front of my private fireplace, I could have enjoyed a beautiful breakfast basket delivered to my room, but since I was traveling alone I decided to seek out the company of the other guests in the main breakfast room.

The friendly staff attended to each guest, offering an array of freshbaked muffins and juices, as they took individual breakfast orders from the personalized menus at each place setting. The open-air kitchen allowed

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the breakfast chef to chat with guests, which made for delightful morning conversation. For guests that want even more of a focus on mouthwatering gourmet food, Abigail’s offers special in-house events such as baking and gourmet cooking classes with the executive chef, and wine tasting seminars by local Vancouver Island vineyards are scheduled during the year. As soon as I learned about this I immediately began thinking about which of my friends might want to join me on a future visit complete with a cooking and wine-pairing class. I wouldn’t be the first to return; in fact, many guests make regular annual visits to Abigail’s, and after my own Abigail’s experience I easily understood why. With Abigail’s blend of comfort, ambiance, and all those special touches, it’s really no secret.

Abigail’s is famous for its gourmet three-course breakfasts. The menu changes daily and can be enjoyed in the cozy bright breakfast room just off the main lobby.

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V I C T O R I A

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Mention this ad at the time of booking and receive complimentary chocolate covered strawberries.

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Reservations must be made by May 1, 2011. Use code “Boat” when reserving. Open from May 31 to September 7, 2011. Other restrictions may apply.

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Bounty from the Sand

Northwest Clams By Allen Cox

A Haida creation myth tells of a raven that discovered the first people inside a clamshell. The raven, playful by nature and lonely for companionship, opened the shell and released the people into the world. The rest is history. Beyond its role as the cradle of humanity, the lowly clam has never achieved much in the realm of greatness — outside the kitchen, that is. It’s doubtful that anyone has ever venerated this mollusk as spirit guide or saluted it as national symbol. Instead, despite its armor of calcium carbonate, we dig it, steam it, fritter it, grind it up and put it in chowder, toss it with linguine, and slice it with precision and call it sashimi. Roughly 250 million years ago, the first bivalves buried themselves in the primordial muck, and, since then, little has rattled the clam’s shell, with the exception of two inventions: fire and the clam gun. Despite man’s appetites, clams have proved to be master survivors. 46

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In our modern diet, the versatile clam constitutes more treat than staple. But long before the advent of supermarkets, the native people who populated the seemingly endless coasts of Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, and Oregon not only counted on the clam as an important source of protein, but fashioned the shells into handy tools, and accessorized with clamshell jewelry. The early settlers relied on clams as well and ate them raw or cooked. In lean times, a harvest of clams could mean the difference between starvation and survival. This invertebrate didn’t have to be hunted like deer or fished like salmon; it simply had to be plucked from its hiding place, but often not without a fight.

The Sex Lives of Clams The clam lives out its years in colonies of fellow clams, not worrying about anything except siphoning water in, water out, and of course reproducing. Divers in Northwest waters have reported witnessing assemblies of clams on the sea bed slowly emitting a stringy tendril-like material from their extended necks while others discharged little volcanic eruptions of a cloudy substance. To survive the harsh, predatory world of the sea, the resulting larvae must swim to a safe environment where they can wait out their development to full clamhood. So, if your child stares across the table at your appetizer of steamed Manilas and asks: “Mommy, where do clams come from?” there is no need to stammer. “They come from Mommy clams and Daddy clams,” you can reply with complete confidence. No need to launch into a description of clam orgies or a lesson on passive fertilization.

Clam Country The coastal Pacific Northwest—with its wide expanses of ocean beaches, its mazes of inland waterways, and its The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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islands as numerous as stars—is quintessential seafood country. And local clams enjoy a top spot on the best menus from Alaska to the southern tip of Oregon, and beyond. The Manila clam, an accidental stowaway from Japan, dominates Northwest clam farming and restaurant menus. Producers create optimal spawning conditions through the careful control of water temperature and feed. The larvae grow in predator free nurseries and can take as long as four years to show up on your dinner plate. Wild clam harvesting is tightly regulated by state and provincial governments. The yield per digger, the time of year, and even the exact days clams can be collected, is calculated to sustain the clam population and ensure the safety of clam consumers. On a few weekends a year, conditions permitting, clam diggers swarm designated beaches to riddle the sand with holes and pull reluctant Pacific ra-

zor clams from their lairs or rake butter clams from the pebbles. It’s a ritual not to be missed among clammers. Once the throngs reach the maximum annual yield, beaches are off-limits to clamming for the rest of the year.

The Clam’s Revenge A tragic incident occurred in Alaska in 1799 at a place now known as Peril Strait. A large band of Aleut hunters was traveling from Sitka to Kodiak and stopped at the strait to camp for the night. Well aware that sometimes shellfish is poisonous and sometimes it is not, they dined on the bounty of shellfish from the beach. Within minutes, many began experiencing symptoms of numbness that quickly developed into the advanced stages of Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP). According to varying accounts, an estimated 80 to a 100 people perished that night.

Toxic algae bloom, commonly called red tide, is caused by a certain type of plankton, which has a long history of wreaking misery up and down the Northwest coast. These organisms produce a powerful toxin (saxitoxins) that causes PSP. During a red tide, clams are a prime carrier of saxitoxins, which are estimated to be 1,000 times more lethal than cyanide. Today, deaths from PSP are rare. Out of a study of 143 recent cases in Alaska, only two victims died. This is in part due to the availability of emergency medical care, and in part to the fact that government agencies are quick to identify toxic algae bloom and shut down contaminated beaches to shellfish collection. Fortunately, the conditions under which farmed shellfish are grown and marketed are so highly regulated that chances of contracting PSP from your bowl of clam chowder are virtually nil.

The giant geoduck (pronounced: “gooey-duck”) is prized from the Pacific Northwest to Japan.

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Clam Culture Clam festivals, chowder cookoffs, clam-themed charitable 10K runs, clam dances, and Ivar’s have all found their places in Northwest clam culture. Clam dishes from all over the world, from the classic clam linguine to breaded razor clams to clam-miso soup, grace the Northwest’s tables.

We’ve heard of geotourism, ecotourism, and even voluntourism, but clam tourism? In some coastal towns, the promise of clams fresh from the beach draws thousands of outsiders on a quest for the bivalve. The clam-loving population of Long Beach, Washington, has so embraced the clam that they erected a wooden sculpture of a man-sized razor clam

on Main Street (next to a sculpture of the world’s largest frying pan). Kitschy, yes, but just looking at it kind of makes you hungry for a plate of pan-fried razors. Now, the geoduck—that behemoth of bivalves that so often elicits offcolor remarks—is a clam to be reckoned with. But that monster merits a story all its own.

Manila Clams Sautéed with Black Bean Sauce ¾ tsp. black pepper ½ tsp. salt (optional) 2 tbsp. sesame oil 3 tbsp. black bean sauce 1 green onion, chopped for garnish 4-5 lbs. Manila clams, scrubbed clean 4 tbsp. butter or margarine 1 medium onion, sliced 1 tbsp. chopped lemongrass 1 clove minced garlic 3 tbsp. cooking sherry

In a pan (with a fitted lid) large enough to hold the clams, melt the butter and sauté the garlic over medium heat, being careful not to burn it. Add the onion, lemongrass, sherry, pepper, and sesame oil. Sauté lightly. Add ¾ cup water and bring to a boil. Add the

washed clams to the mixture, mix well, and cover. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the clams open. To serve, divide the clams into serving bowls, ladle the broth over the clams, and sprinkle with green onions. Serves four. Recipe provided by courtesy of Chef Xinh at Xinh’s Clam & Oyster House, Shelton, WA. Website: www.xinhsrestaurant.com.

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Enjoying the Reds and the Whites at San Juan Vineyards By Michael Fagin

Hosting Seven Acres of Planted Vineyard on San Juan Island since 1996 Are reds better than whites? That was the question my wife and I asked, but the debate would have to wait as the first reds we saw upon leaving Lake Union on the Kenmore seaplane were the fall foliage at the Washington Park Arboretum below us. These reds were followed by the majestic whites of Mount Rainier to the south, Mount Olympus to the west, and Mount Baker to the north. Though I had initially planned to do some reading during our 45-minute flight to the San Juan Vineyards, I soon found the sun glistening off the Puget Sound to be a heady distraction. The book I had intended to read was about the last Ice Age, when glaciers completely covered much of the Puget Sound region as well as the San Juan Islands. I took a minute to close my eyes and imagine what the area might have looked like 10,000 years ago. I was interrupted by my wife, Elizabeth, asking if I had seen the humpback whale in the water below. I opened my eyes and admitted that I hadn’t. After Elizabeth shared her excitement about the whales, I shared my information about the glaciers.

The glaciers of the last Ice Age helped carve the great wine country of the Puget Sound region. These glaciers were 5,000 feet thick and were masterful gardeners at preparing the soil to produce wine. After the initial work of the glaciers, the glacier till (small rocks) was left, allowing the water to drain well along with the finely grained soil. This soil contained abundant minerals, including limestone, which gives the white wines their particularly zesty taste. Geology aside, it was now time to visit the vineyard. We landed at Roche Harbor Marina and then drove 10 minutes by car to the San Juan Vineyards. Here we were greeted by the owner and manager Yvonne Swanberg. Yvonne gave us a quick tour of the grounds, where we explored an old schoolhouse that had been converted to a retail shop and tasting room. We also saw the beautiful chapel that is used for special events such as weddings, as well as the adjacent outdoor pavilion where preparations were being made for the Fall Wine Festival Party.

From the activity around the vineyard, we could see that the fall harvest is a busy time. We noticed a worker on a forklift loading up packing bins. We were told that these would be shipped to eastern Washington and would return filled with the famous Cabernet grapes. When the worker jumped off the forklift, Yvonne introduced him to us, and we were pleased to find he was the vineyard’s winemaker, Chris Primus. Chris and I began talking and immediately found common ground discussing the weather patterns of the last five summers, as well as considering what the coming seasons might hold. While we were talking, Yvonne and Elizabeth retired to the tasting room. Shortly after, Chris and I moved into the barrel room to continue our talk, which turned into a two-hour discussion during which I learned that his first exposure to the finer points of wine occurred during his senior year at college. While studying chemistry, he had taken a break from his core classes to take a wine appreciation class. Chris eventually graduated from the University of Washington with a Master’s

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degree in chemical engineering, having worked a number of summer jobs in the chemical industry. The way Chris has connected wine and chemistry in his career is not surprising since one of his chemistry professors started a now-famous winery

â&#x20AC;&#x153;What is the definition of a good wine? It should start and end with a smile.â&#x20AC;? ~ William Sokolin in the Puget Sound region. This same professor referred Chris to his first job at the winery, where he worked for a brief period before deciding he wanted more hands-on experience. He moved south to Oregon where he worked in the Willamette Valley for several years, an excellent apprenticeship for learning the nuances of cool climate grapes, which the Valley is famous for.

Owner Yvonne Swanberg has been greeting guests at the winery with gracious hospitality since production began in 1999.

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Famous Wine Quotes “Penicillin cures, but wine makes people happy.” —Alexander Fleming, the bacteriologist credited with discovering Penicillin.

“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.”—Ernest Hemingway “Wine improves with age. The older I get, the better I like it.” —Anonymous

“Compromises are for relationships, not wine.” —Sir Robert Scott Caywood

“Beer is made by men, wine by God!”—Martin Luther “Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures.”—Michael Broadbent “Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance.”—Benjamin Franklin “Men are like wine - some turn to vinegar, but the best improve with age.”—Pope John XXIII “I cook with wine; sometimes I even add it to the food.”—W. C. Fields “Wine is life.”—Petronius, Roman writer “He who aspires to be a serious wine drinker must drink claret.” (“claret” is the British term for red Bordeaux)—Samuel Johnson

“Nothing makes the future look so rosy as to contemplate it through a glass of wine.”—Napoleon “No nation is drunken where wine is cheap, and none sober where the dearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the common beverage.”—Thomas Jefferson “Life is too short to drink bad wine.”—Anonymous “A bottle of wine begs to be shared; I have never met a miserly wine lover.”—Clifton Fadiman “Wine brings to light the hidden secrets of the soul, gives being to our hopes, bids the coward flight, drives dull care away, and teaches new means for the accomplishment of our wishes.”—Horace “Wine cheers the sad, revives the old, inspires the young, makes weariness forget his toil.”—Lord Byron

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Winemaker Chris Primus takes special pride in producing awardwinning wines at San Juan Vineyards.

All of these experiences came together in 2006, when Yvonne hired Chris to be the winemaker and vineyard manager at San Juan Vineyards. As our discussion wound down, we decided it was time to join Yvonne and Elizabeth in the tasting room. The first wine we sampled was the Madeleine Angevine, a nice light, dry wine that has won two silver medals. The Madeleine Angevine is an early ripening grape also grown in the famous wine

“I think it is a great error to consider a heavy tax on wines as a tax on luxury. On the contrary, it is a tax on the health of our citizens.” ~ Thomas Jefferson region of the Loire Valley in France as well as in Germany. Our second sample of wine was Siegerrebe, the vineyard’s flagship wine. Elizabeth and I loved the honey-and-fruit smell but were surprised it was not sweet to the taste. The Siegerrebe grape is a cross of the Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer grapes. It is also grown in

Germany where many parts of its wine country are at close latitude to the San Juan Vineyards. This latitude similarity ensures that the weather conditions are comparable. Our wine tasting continued as Yvonne brought out her favorite wine, a 2008 Riesling. We were not surprised to find that this wine has won two gold medals, and we decided to take some home since it would pair perfectly with the halibut we were having. Next we progressed to the Cabernet Franc, which we had tried at home with duck, a perfect pairing, and also with lamb. Chris did a superb job with these grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills of eastern Washington. We had originally boarded the Kenmore seaplane with a question. Now as we once again climbed aboard for the trip back, we had our answer. The question we originally asked was: reds or whites? Thanks to our trip to the San Juan Vineyards, we now knew: reds and whites.

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A quick lesson

Winter “Blackmouth” Salmon Fishing By Terry W. Sheely

It’s the purple sheen from inside the the suntiny scales that grabs my eye, an irides- rises that cent confusion of deep reddish-blue- explode in violet that shimmers into a wet glow orange and pink, shootalong the blackmouth’s backline and ing light spears over the flows like saltwater under the salm- coastal mountain tops, lighton’s dorsal fin, head to tail, above the ing up the snow fields—fishing unbelievable metallic brilliance of its on water that can be as flat as a sides. Its head is surprisingly hard to mirror and filled with reflections the touch and gently oval like a skill- of hacksaw peaks. Winter birds in their brightest seasonal plumage ride fully sculpted black bullet. A bullet—yes, that fits. This fish is easily on the water or whistle past in a bullet, a silver-sided purple-backed tight little clusters. Herring dimple bullet with a black head, blacker lips, the surface in the good fishing spots, wild eyes and sprinter speed. It’s what and almost always we are alone with makes winter salmon special, a breed our thoughts, a companion perhaps apart, a prime-of-life chinook invigo- and sometimes a boat heater. For their part, winter salmon are rated by cold water, energized by winter, gorged with good food and full of an odd branch of the chinook family, resident predators fight. The appeal of Winter chinook that live their entire these fish is lost on most anglers, but to fishermen, I have found, lives close to shore in winter chinook beare as special as the the sounds, straits, coves and reefs of inlievers, the fanatics fish themselves. land salt. Their urge to who ignore the cold and rain and spray of winter white migrate out to sea has long ago been caps, there simply is no other salmon. bred out of them. We call them blackWinter chinook fishermen, I have mouth because of their ebony lips that found, are as special as the fish them- frame an even blacker mouth. They selves. They are salmon anglers, year- are chrome-bright with mulberry round kicker boat diehards. Hang backs, firm-bodied and short-fused. We fish them in the cold months, the weather—they’re going for a tug, a challenge, a fight and maybe a bril- when the season is open, in all of Puget liant orange fillet. For every 20 or 30 Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the summer salmon anglers there is one San Juan and Gulf Islands, the Strait winter fisherman, bundled up, gloved of Georgia and even further north up the Inside Passage. and loving it. Blackmouth are mostly immature We come not just for the fish, but for the esoteric as well—the salt air that salmon, a year or two short of spawnsnaps, the towers of cumulus clouds, ing, weighing seven to 15 pounds— 56

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though some, the great ones, will weigh in the mid-20s. Experienced blackmouth fishers will offer their lures and baits within 10, possibly 20, feet of the bottom and rarely shallower. Fish where the fish are. That’s the rule, and with rare exception, these fish are bottom huggers, scouring the sea floor at depths of 100 to 200 feet for herds of herring, spawning candlefish, sea worms, shrimp or squid. There are three primary fishing techniques: jigging on the bottom with an elongated replica of a skinny candlefish, mooching—that is, bait fishing with a plug-cut sculpted herring and a simple six-ounce crescent sinker for weight—or trolling, which involves towing a large flasher as an attraction ahead of a thin-wiggling spoon, herring-like plug, plastic squid or fresh herring attached to the terminal end. Trollers favor downriggers to reach and hold at specific depths, while herring moochers either drift with the current when possible or, when there is no current, hunt by kicking the motor into and out of gear, raising the herring and letting it fall spinning and vulnerable. Jiggers drift dead-slow above a likely feeding bank, pounding a heavy lure like the Point Wilson Dart or the Buzz Bomb against the bottom, jerking it up and fluttering it down. The strike comes on the drop.

Blackmouths are silver-sided purple-backed bullets with a black head, blacker lips, wild eyes and sprinter speed.

Salmon Trolling Rigs Dodger / Squid 7/0 Snap Swivel 1/0 Snap Swivel 20-40 lb. Main Line

4-8 oz. Keel Sinker

36” 50 lb. Shock Leader No. 00-No. 2 Dodger

Coho Fly or Hoochie Squid

Dodger Size No. 00 No. 0 No. 1 No. 2

Leader Length 12” 15” 18” 24”

Flasher Size 10” 12”

Leader Length 25” 30”

20-30 lb. Leader

Flasher / Squid 36”-48” 40 lb. Leader 3-Way Swivel

Flasher

4-32 oz. Weight

Coho Fly or Hoochie Squid

Rigging Plug-Cut Herring Insert lowest hook in cavity and out the spine. Pull both hooks through the top hole.

Herring Length 4” 5” 6” 8”

Side View

12-15 lb. Main Line Insert lowest hook, turn, and insert top hook on opposite side.

Bottom 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0

Top 1 1/0 2/0 3/0

6’ 12 lb. Leader 4-8 oz. Keel Sinker

Top View

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Winter Flyaways The Bird Rock Hotel, Friday Harbor, WA

By A.J. Hunt

A San Juan Island Urban Retreat Take a deep breath of the fresh sea air, shed the hectic city pace—you are now on island time. For a memorable getaway in the heart of downtown Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, there’s no more convenient place to stay than the Bird Rock Hotel, where owner/manager Laura Saccio offers plush classic hospitality in a retro-contemporary setting. The Bird Rock Hotel is a combination of a historic old-island structure and a clean, modern urban remodel. The authentic, original San Juan Island hotel exterior shelters a stylish contemporary decor ranging from simple, Europeanstyle sleeping rooms to deluxe, harborview suites. Earth tones with subtle beach-house highlights reflect the ecology of the island. It all combines to ensure a peaceful respite from active days

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spent hiking, paddling and exploring San Juan Island. Features such as custom beds with organic fair-trade linens, iPod docking

radios, flat-panel satellite HDTV, and free high-speed wireless Internet provide all the comforts of home for guests who enjoy relaxing in their rooms. For the more adventurous there are courtesy beach-cruiser bikes for exploring the island, along with access to an off-site heated indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna and fitness studio. Each of the 15 rooms and suites at Bird Rock is unique, allowing guests to select the features that satisfy their individual San Juan Island getaway style. Depending on the room, amenities may include king or queen beds, oversized whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces, harbor views and private patios. A gourmet continental breakfast is included in the rate, and evening room service from San Juan Island’s iconic Backdoor Kitchen Restaurant, widely considered one of Friday Harbor’s finest, is available on request. The downtown area features a variety of choices for dining and entertainment, including wine bars; beer pubs; burgers; seafood; Chinese, Mediterranean, Mexican, Greek, and Thai cuisine; and

specialty coffee shops with homemade desserts. If the weather isn’t cooperating, you can always catch a first first-run movie at the local theater. Friday Harbor is only a 45 minute flight from Lake Union and Boeing

Field Kenmore Air terminals. There is really no need for a car as everything is within walking distance. If you want to venture out of town for a quick jaunt to San Juan Vineyards for wine tasting or Duck Soup Inn for dinner, the

taxi fare is minimal. Ideal for taking in the local island scene in downtown Friday Harbor, the Bird Rock Hotel is a convenient island flyaway destination perfect for some serious San Juan flavor and fun.

Port Ludlow Resort, Port Ludlow, WA

One of the Puget Sound’s Most Idyllic Bays The Pacific Northwest boasts some of the most superb scenery in the country and, for that matter, the world. Backdrop scenes of spiky pines, thickly clad cedars and lush Northwest evergreens sprawling down to the edge of calm, scenic coves, with yachts bobbing gently in deep blue waters, are commonplace sights around Puget Sound.

Throw in the snow-capped Olympic Mountains looming in the background, a classy resort, a rich selection of flora and fauna, an art gallery, a renowned golf course, and you have Port Ludlow, one of the Northwest’s finest and most desirable destinations. Port Ludlow Marina harbors a convenient floatplane dock, easily reached by Kenmore Air charter

By Roy Stevenson

flights in less than 20 minutes from Seattle’s South Lake Union terminal. If it’s fine dining you want, the Fireside Restaurant at The Inn is only a twominute walk from the marina. You’ll not be disappointed with the seafood selection in this richly appointed restaurant, which offers breakfast, lunch and dinner service. The Northwest Pacific Rim menu, combined with domestic and foreign wine choices and the waterfront view, makes for an idyllic culinary experience. A bed-and-breakfast style resort modeled on New England’s coastal summer homes, The Inn at Port Ludlow features rooms and suites, fully stocked condominiums and a waterfront beach house. Relaxing recreational activities at Port Ludlow include the Bay Club’s indoor sauna, pool, racquetball court and tennis courts, about a mile or so around the cove from the marina. Further still along the cove is the 27-hole Port Ludlow Golf Course, also designated as an Audubon sanctuary. The golf course actually consists of three nine-hole courses, each designed with a different theme in mind: waterholes, dense natural forest and scenic views.

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Nature lovers should pick up the brochure titled “The Nature of Ludlow Bay” by Larry Eifert, a resident artist of the port. This nicely illustrated and detailed guide is filled with information on the area’s trees, plants, flowers, birds, shellfish and animals, along with tips on where to find them. A map on the brochure indicates where to find the best concentrations of wildlife

and flora. Among the birds, animals, plants and water life that can be sighted around the cove are woodpeckers, quail, ducks, deer, western trillium, yellow monkeyflower, Nootka rose, loons, osprey, bald eagles, kingfishers and great blue herons. The small Village Center is Port Ludlow’s shopping hub, with a supermarket, souvenir shop, salon, gas

Rosario Resort, Eastsound - Orcas Island, WA “In the lower reaches of Puget Sound, looking out through the Strait of Juan de Fuca, toward the Olympic Mountains and lands of romance on the chief trade routes of the world’s future commerce, lies a land unique and apart from anything else in the Western Hemisphere—the San Juan Islands. Unique in charm and beauty, in easy, agreeable living conditions, in healthfulness; unique in the fact that it is an entire county of sea and land, of islands and inlets, 172 in number; varying in size from 58 square miles to the area of a city lot. Of all the islands, Orcas Island is the most picturesque . . . it is a wonderful place in which to forget one’s troubles and worries and get back to Nature in her happiest moods; a delightful place in which to regain health—physical, mental and spiritual.” -Robert Moran, from the 1932 Rosario Prospectus “Rosario: An Estate in the Pacific Northwest”

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station and sundry shops. For art lovers, the Port Ludlow Artist’s League Gallery has some fine print artwork, woodwork, hand-painted game boards, glass fusion plates, masks, cards and jewelry. A stay at Port Ludlow serves as a reminder of the Northwest’s beauty, refreshing our appreciation of the natural treasures the Puget Sound area has to offer.

By A.J. Hunt

A Pristine Oasis on Picturesque Orcas Island, WA Robert Moran pretty much says it all when describing the essence of staying on Orcas Island. The island is an ideal Northwest escape for those who

love nature, outdoor activities and historic cultural attractions. If relaxation is your preference, how about a pampering spa treatment and a gourmet

dining experience? Arriving at the float plane dock at the Rosario Resort Marina is only the beginning of a romantic peaceful getaway worthy of any special occasion or just a time out from the traffic and busy urban lifestyle. Guests at Rosario can expect a restful experience of peace and quiet, fresh sea air and fragrant evergreen scents. This relaxing oasis is perfect even in misty wet winter weather, which only seems to enhance the earthy smells of nature in the lush forest setting. The nearby Moran State Park offers abundant hiking trails and quiet sitting areas with stunning island views. Rosario Resort is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, for reasons that quickly become clear as you stroll through the hallways and resort grounds. Don’t miss the resort museum, which offers exhibits and artifacts explaining the history and culture of the resort and local area. The vintage-photo-covered walls take you back in time and tell amazing stories of this treasured island paradise. Many of the staff and management have a long personal history with the resort and can offer some great storytelling for guests. If you are really looking to get away and relax, indulge yourself with the ultimate Rosario spa experience. The Spa at Rosario has a skilled staff offering a variety of relaxation and rejuvenation services in a spectacular natural setting. The five-star treatments are sure to rejuvenate your body, mind and soul. Facilities include a sauna, exercise and weight rooms, a whirlpool, treatment rooms and an indoor pool. Rosario guest rooms feature stylishly comfortable Northwest furnishings and spectacular views framing the natural beauty of the East Sound and Cascade Bay. The Bayside rooms, which have one king or two queen beds, open onto a patio or balcony with dramatic island views. Room amenities include televisions, small refrigerators, coffeemakers and free wireless Internet. There are also several cozy common

areas for relaxing activities such as reading in front of the historic main fireplace or listening to General Manager Christopher Peacock playing the 1900 Steinway Grand Piano in the resort lobby. The Quilted Pig Restaurant, located in the resort’s Moran Mansion, offers an elegant waterfront dining experience featuring the fresh gourmet cuisine of Chef Madden Surbaugh, whose many accolades include being voted one of the “Northwest’s Best Chefs” by KCTS Channel 9 Public Television in 2008. The Quilted Pig features what Chef Madden describes on the restaurant’s website as “fine dining quality in a fun and casual atmosphere.” Chef Madden created the Island’s Certified Local program and works closely with farmers to ensure that the restaurant is using locally grown, organic goods produced in a safe and sustainable way. In San Juan County such products are not only readily available but world-class in quality. Chef Madden also offers an affordable bar menu complementing local island wines. The Quilted Pig is open Wednesday through

Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. and reservations are highly recommended.

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Flight Instruction Experience the Fun of Flying Off the Water!

Have you always wanted to learn to fly?

Introductory Flight

Experience the joy of seaplane flying with an introductory lesson with Kenmore Air, the leading name in seaplane operations! COST: $99 OVERVIEW Take the controls of the capable Piper Super Cub as one of Kenmore Air’s qualified instructors guides you through a half hour of take-offs and landings on Lake Washington.

This is a perfect gift for any aviation enthusiast or adventurer. Minimum requirements to participate: 15 years of age / Previous flight experience not required

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Seaplane Rating (For licensed Private Pilots)

Kenmore Air Harbor’s SingleEngine Sea Rating Course. COST: $1,595 COURSE OVERVIEW The private pilot single-engine seaplane rating consists of ground training, flight training and a checkride with an FAA designated examiner. During your ground and flight topics and training you will discuss and master maneuvers unique to seaplanes such as: • Float construction and regulations • Aircraft systems • Determining seaplane accessibility of bodies of waters • Preflight considerations • Castoff and taxiing • Reading wind and water conditions • Normal takeoffs and landings • Glassy-water takeoffs and landings • Rough-water takeoffs and landings

• Crosswind takeoffs and landings • Confined-area takeoffs and landings • Sailing • Docking, beaching, ramping, and mooring Lessons will begin with a preflight briefing, followed by a flight lesson, and a debriefing. You will be scheduled for ground sessions at the beginning of your training and again prior to your check-ride. During these sessions, you and your instructor will prepare for the oral exam portion of your check-ride. This will also provide for a time to discuss flight procedures and to answer any questions regarding seaplane operations. Flight training will be conducted on Lake Washington and other nearby lakes such as Lake Sammamish. The check-ride consists of an evaluation of all of the above topics and procedures. During your checkride, an examiner will evaluate you on your control of the aircraft, judgment,

Kenmore Air Harbor’s Seaplane Flight Instruction

and application of aeronautical knowledge according to the Practical Test Standards set by the FAA. Upon satisfactorily completing the checkride you will be awarded with a temporary certificate with the new qualification of “Single-Engine Sea,” permitting you to exercise the coveted privileges of pilot in command in a single-engine seaplane.

surrounded by towering trees, and pristine rock banks. River flying requires special considerations unique to this type of flying. You will learn to identify obstructions, read water current, select proper landing sites and maneuver on the fastmoving fluid surface. de Havilland Beaver Training Kenmore Air is most famous for its

No operator in the country has more seaplane experience than Kenmore Air... so why would you get your rating anywhere else?

Advanced Training (For Seaplane-Rated Pilots)

Kenmore Air is pleased to be able to offer advanced seaplane training beyond the rating. Mountain Flying The Pacific Northwest contains some of the most picturesque mountain lakes, some only accessible by seaplane. Kenmore Air flight instructors will equip you with the knowledge and skills to fly to these remote locations safely and enjoy some of the most peaceful nature there is to see.

Photo by: Michael Hays

River Flying Kenmore Air is located near several seaplane-accessible rivers. There’s no greater thrill than taking off from a narrow ribbon of moving water

legendary de Havilland Beavers. Since the early 1960’s Kenmore Air has become the most trusted name in Beaver rebuilds, modifications, maintenance and training. One of our highly experienced instructors will guide you as you take this amazing plane through its paces. Be one of the few pilots to take the controls of the world’s hardest-working bush planes.

Contact our Flight Instruction Department today to plan your adventure in seaplane flying! 800.543.9595 x2250 instruction@KenmoreAir.com

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w w w. m o l l y m o r r o w. c o m

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Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle. HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com Winter 2011

South Lake Union Seattle’s Revitalized Historic Neighborhood

Learn to Fly a Seaplane

Victoria’s Secret Clayoquot

San Juan Vineyards San Juan Island

Wilderness Resort, BC

Steelhead Fishing

Olympic Peninsula