HARBORS Fall/Winter 2013 by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

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Eagle Nook Resort

Ucluelet, British Columbia

Shop Victoria Steelhead on the Brink

Waterfront

Houseboat Living USD $6.95 CAN $7.95

Dragon Boat Racing

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SEEN IN ALL

THE BEST PLACES

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he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow

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A PERFECT LANDING Seattle’s award-winning Elliott Bay Marina offers an urban oasis with two distinct culinary variations. Enjoy our park-like setting for lunch, dinner, or a weekend getaway on your boat – just 3 miles from downtown Seattle.

STOP BY FOR A FREE CUP OF CHOWDER Try a rich cup of our signature seafood chowder at either Maggie Bluffs or Palisade by visiting elliottbaymarina.net and downloading the coupon. Free 3 hour parking – or call the marina for free shuttle service from Kenmore’s Lake Union hub. Coming by boat? Ask about guest moorage. For details please contact our Harbormaster at 206.285.4817.

elliottbaymarina.net | maggiebluffs.com | palisaderestaurant.com

LOVE THE WATER?

We’re your friend with a boat. The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.

A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise.

...And Admission is FREE!

ENJOY A GIFT SHOP DISCOUNT! We have t-shirts, hats, mugs, toy boat kits, cards, books and more! Mention this ad for a special HARBORS Magazine discount!

The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | 206-382-2628 | www.cwb.org

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BOATING SAFETY TIPS

photo by: Doug Wilson

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Always wear a properly fitted life jacket. Always operate your boat at a safe speed. Be sure to have the proper safety equipment on your boat and maintain it. When operating a boat never drink alcohol. Know the laws “rules of the water” for boat owners. Take a boating safety course. Learn to swim. Know how to recue yourself and others. Be conscious of environmental issues: fueling, habitat damage, and wildlife harassment. Avoid making too much noise. Boat operators need to hear signals and warnings of danger. At all times be aware of your surroundings, including weather conditions, waves, currents, storms, fog, etc. Check the weather forecast for your destination. Plan clothing, equipment and supplies accordingly. Travel responsibly on designated waterways and launch your watercraft in designated areas. Comply with all signs and barriers. This includes speed limits, no-wake zones, and underwater obstructions. Make every effort to always go boating with a partner. Make sure you have your owner’s manual and registration on board in waterproof containers. Make sure you have enough fuel and oil for the entire trip. Always have a designated lookout to keep an eye out for other boaters, objects, and swimmers. Always carry a Coast Guard approved working fire extinguisher. Know your limitations. Apply sunscreen, drink lots of water, and watch your energy level. Know the distress signals and warning symbols. Always travel slowly in shallow waters and avoid boating in water less than 2.5 feet deep. High speeds near shorelines leads to large wakes which cause shoreline erosion. Do your part by leaving an area better than you found it, properly disposing fuel, oil and waste, avoiding the speed of evasive species and restoring degraded areas. Join a local boating enthusiast’s organization.

Boater education prevents accidents and saves lives. Whether or not their state or province requires it, all boaters have a responsibility to learn about boat operation, communications, navigation, and life-saving techniques before taking to the water. Statistics bear out what logic suggests—those without boater education put themselves and others at risk. -American Boating Association The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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HA R B OR S

The Pacific Northwest Seaplane Adventures Website

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin EDITOR Susan Colby editor@harborsmagazine.com COPY EDITING Vincent Hagel Russ Young CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Susan Colby Joshua Colvin Betsy Crowfoot Natasha Dworkin

Sue Frause Karen McGeorge Sanders Terry W. Sheely Russ Young

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View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Island Webcam Boating & Adventure Blogging Navigation Maps Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas

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PHOTO CREDITS Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 16,20,21 Long B. Nguyen, pg. 17 Eagle Nook Resort pgs. 18-19, 20 Long Live the Kings, pgs. 31-33 Susan Colby, pgs. 44-49, 63(t), 64(m/b), 65(t) AJ Hunt, pgs. 50-57, 74-75 Seattle Dragon Boat Club, pgs. 58-61

Clint Ferrara, pgs. 62, 63(b), 64(t), 65(tr) WA St Dept. of Ecology, pgs. 6364(maps) Betsy Crowfoot, pg. 66 Sidney Pier Hotel, pgs. 70-71 Sue Frause, pg. 71(t) Rosewood Hotel Georgia, pgs. 72-73

WEB DESIGN Danny McEnerney HARBORS Magazine is the proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State The Seattle Center for Wooden Boats HARBORS Magazine is the proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Washington State Seaplane Pilot’s Association PUBLISHED BY

SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE www.harborsmagazine.com All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.

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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher Due to the popularity of the magazine and the need for expanding distribution, HARBORS is now The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine, the in-flight magazine for Kenmore Air as well as other seaplane carriers and boating communities throughout the Pacific Northwest. This change will increase our distribution to the Greater Puget Sound area and Vancouver, BC /Salish Sea area (covering some of the most sought-after boating and yachting destinations in North America) as well as availability on newsstands and retail stores. This expanded distribution offers a readership potential of over 500,000 per year and remains the same high-quality publication readers have come to enjoy, with exceptional content and spectacular photography from Pacific Coast writers and photographers. HARBORS’ superior quality reflects the excellence of the seaplane carriers and destinations represented in featured content. In addition, we are changing the frequency of the magazine to bi-monthly starting in March of 2014, publishing five issues per year. HARBORS magazine will continue to offer endless adventures like the ones featured in this issue. In this issue you will experience adventure fishing at the Eagle Nook Resort on Vancouver Island, go shopping in Victoria, BC, explore some of Puget Sound’s historical lighthouses, and be welcomed aboard a beautiful waterfront houseboat on Lake Union. We will introduce you to dragon boats and some interesting work being done by the Department of Ecology to protect the waters of Washington State. Please Like us on Facebook, if you haven’t already, and check out our new website. We want to hear from you, so please send us your seaplane and boating adventures from the spectacular summer we had this year. Enjoy the magazine, your journey and your destination!

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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Whatever your destination, Red Lion has a location for you. Whether you’re boating the Columbia River, soaring above Seattle atop the Space Needle, skiing the fresh power of Idaho mountains or enjoying the open sky of Montana, we know you’re going to need a good night’s sleep. Wherever your Pacific Northwest adventure takes you, Red Lion Hotels will help make it comfortable.

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LOCATIONS IN

WASHINGTON • OREGON IDAHO • MONTANA redlion.com 800–Red Lion

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2013/2014 FALL/WINTER

Features

Eagle Nook Resort

Lighting the Way

Steelhead on the Brink

Destination Maps

Shopping in Victoria, BC

Waterfront

Seattle’s Flying Dragons

Testing the Waters

Fishing the West Coast of Vancouver Island Visit a Few Puget Sound Historic Lighthouses Saving Washington’s State Fish from Extinction South Zone / North Zone

From Cuban Cigars to Irish Lace

An Incredible Lake Union Houseboat The Sport of Dragon Boat Racing Puget Sound Water Monitoring

Northwest Artist Spotlight

Gyotaku - The Art of Fish Printing

Travel Savvy

Seaplane Flyaways

Good Hydration

Sidney, BC • Vancouver, BC • Friday Harbor, WA

Cover Photo: Eagle Nook Resort on the West Coast of Vancouver Island, BC by pilot

and photographer, Long Bach Nguyen. www.longbachnguyen.com

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www.mahagonyandmerlot.com Pacific Northwest Region

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HARBORS Travel Club Card

HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club

Participating Businesses & Organizations Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

Kings Marine Center

Abigail’s Hotel

Orcas Suites

Bear Mountain Westin

States Inn & Ranch

Bear Mountain Golf Resort

San Juan Classic Day Sailing

Brentwood Bay Lodge

San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching

Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa

San Juan Vineyards

Hotel Grand Pacific

Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast

Fairholme Manor

Tucker House Bed and Breakfast

Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa

Waterworks Art Gallery

Prestige Oceanfront Resort

Olympic Peninsula

Prime Steakhouse & Lounge Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge Sooke Harbour House Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim San Juan Islands

Susie’s Mopeds

Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge

Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel

EhaArt, Pender Island Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge Seattle

Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company

Center for Wooden Boats ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness

See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.

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If you would like to sign your business up as a participating vendor for our travel club members, just send us an email and tell us what amount of discount you would like to offer to our HABRORS Travel Club Members (10%, 15% or 20%) and we will add you to our list.

DiStefano Winery (Woodinville)

Coho Restaurant

Attention Business Owners

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Notes From Our Readers London Chef Article I just want to take a quick moment and let you know that numerous people have commented on how great the London Chef article was that Jane Mundy wrote for HARBORS spring issue. More than one person has expressed what a thoughtful and interesting article is was. I just wanted to pass that on to you. Thanks! Micayla Hayes The London Chef, Victoria, BC HARBORS Aurora Explorer Article Intrigues Seattle Television Producer I was enjoying your magazine and came across the Aurora Explorer article in the spring issue of HARBORS. There was a photo of a mill worker or logger on a log pond near Loughborough Inlet on Frazer Bay, British Columbia. I would like to find out what the name of the place where that photo was taken? I am a television producer interested taping some footage with them. Thank you so much and I have really enjoyed your publication! Sincerely, Christina Kindwall Director of Development Screaming Flea Productions, Inc. Seattle, WA

Seattle Travel Agency Uses HARBORS to Inspire Clients HARBORS magazine is my favorite local publication…..The pictures are amazing and the local flavor stories always surprise me….It gives other travel agents in the office and our clients great ideas for local travel destinations, both well and lesser known. We look forward to each issue and learning about our Pacific Northwest destinations! Thank you for this wonderful resource. Sue Kenney Scan East West Travel, Seattle, WA Whidbey Island Resident Golfer Enjoys HARBORS Magazine I’ve really enjoyed the articles on golfing in the Northwest, especially the ones about golfing in Canada by Vince Hagel. As a golfer one sees lots of articles by travelers about golf but most of them are by non- golfers and they don’t have the same feel and give the reader a good idea of how the course would be. I can tell by the photos and the writing that the writer is a golfer and cares about the game. Thanks for the great magazine and keep on traveling.

Reader in Cheney WA Seduced by HARBORS Magazine From reading HARBORS magazine (received in the mail) I felt seduced by both the photography and the quality of the selected articles. I often read Harbors from cover to cover and had increased desires to visit many of the places visited by your authors. The Pacific Northwest is a terrific place to live and visit and the Harbors staff not only capture the essence of what it means to enjoy our area, but their articles and photos pay tribute to how fortunate we are to be residents of such a beautiful part of the world. But you know that because you help capture the beauty. Jack Martin Cheney, WA

To send a “Note From Our Readers” email: info@harborsmagazine.com

W. Brown Oak Harbor, WA

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Fishing Vancouver Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West Side with Dan Brunet 16

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A Fisherman’s Paradise Eagle Nook Resort on Vancouver Island By Terry W. Sheely

Eagle Nook Resort dockside parking lot. The second rod bucks down while the first chinook is still running wild and this is ... just the first of our salmon doubles. Dan Brunet swings the net, there’s a splash, a grunt and a thrash as our skipper derricks my wife Natalie’s dozen pounds of beautifully blued and spotted salmon into the boat, drops the handle and grabs a second net for Jan’s. Natalie and Jan Conner hit the double just as their thin-blade trolling spoons flashed into a huge ball of baitfish, herring showing on the depth sounder 99-feet down. “Been like this for a week,” Dan grins.

He has reason to be confident. His fishing area between Port Alberni and Tofino is at the mouth of one the most productive salmon factories in North America, Robertson Creek Hatchery and is on the migration routes for salmon rivers from Vancouver’s Fraser River to the Columbia on the Washington-Oregon border. Dan is lead guide for Lucky Sportfishing, the in-house guide service for Eagle Nook Resort, a four-star wilderness adventure tucked into a remote, roadless calendar setting, where Vancouver Island’s Barkley Sound meets the jigsaw channels and reefs in the

Broken Island Group. Our nose-to-the-window low-level flight through mountains, over saltwater and island scenics, from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union base in Seattle to the southwest side of Vancouver Island, including a stop at Canadian Customs in Nanaimo took a little under two hours. Then it took less than 40 minutes from when the DeHavilland Otter skimmed to a reflected landing in Jane Bay to board the 27-foot Grady White, pop out into Barkley Sound, hit eight chinook salmon, landing five and keeping three. Then we went in to Eagle Nook Resort for lunch.

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Eagle Nook Resort one of Vancouver Islands most popular fishing and seaplane destinations. It was an eye-opening start to one of the most diverse, well-conceived and spoil-me-rotten adventures Natalie and I have been on. The two-story lodge at Eagle Nook Resort and Spa is on a narrow isthmus of rock and lawn between Jane and Vernon bays. It’s a remote setting with wilderness and saltwater views front and back. Managing resort partner Dick Beselin proudly points out, “No roads lead to Eagle Nook. Float plane or boat, that’s how we get here. This is where wilderness and comfort meet.” Comfort, in this instance, is defined as 23 big, airy guest rooms, two separate log cottages with all the artistic trimmings plus privacy, vaulted ceilings, library, fireplaces, wildlife and nature art, sculptures, four-star kitchen, an energetic staff that handles our questions and totes our bags before we 18

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even know we need help. And then we discover the massage center, Jacuzzi, outdoor hot tub, patio dining and smooth benches around the fire pit at the edge of Vernon Bay where oysters pop, shrimp sauté and the outside world disappears. If this sounds like idolatry then perhaps I should leave out the part about the humpback whale. It appeared in Vernon Bay in the purple light of late evening, following a school of panicking anchovies, spy-hopping and feeding. A fledgling bald eagle watched from a stick nest, a seal broke the surface and we watched it all from a white linen-topped table where Natalie and I are enjoying our salmon in dill sauce with a “smoky” white wine. On the Jane Bay side of Eagle Nook is a tidal lagoon, a natural aquarium of sea stars, crabs, oysters and poggies darting through kelp fronds. Attached

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is the wharf where float-planes, kayaks and boats are moored. A trailhead is marked by the wooden sculpture of a life-size hiker and a cluster of convenient hiking staffs. The resort is one of three dozen remote destination fishing lodges directly serviced by Kenmore Air’s fleet of float planes. On our last morning Captain Dan and guide Kylan Buameler point the twin 225 outboards toward “Phantom Reef ” where we’ve been nailing chinook. Phantom Reef is Dan’s private joke—“It exists on the charts but not in the water. There’s no reef. That’s why we call it the Phantom.” This morning Phantom Reef has attracted whales, sea lions, couple of colorful harlequin ducks, and a few hundred (thousand?) chinook. A pink and white Coho Killer spoon is on the left rod, an Okie Kinetic Ti-

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tan spoon on the right; both trolled behind transparent Okie Flashers off electric downriggers at exactly 99 feet—a “lucky” depth that has become magical this trip. “Fish ON! Fish ON! FISH ONNNNNN!” Kylan shouts and we jump. Natalie’s rod is bowed and banging into the water. Line is flying off the reel, a glistening blue, singleaction knuckle buster. Twice the salmon comes to the boat and twice it leaves, rolling and tail whomping. Line hisses. Natalie works the fish back only to see it roll and dive again. Kylan gets the net. The next pass will be it. Natalie plays the fish perfectly, rod tip up, constant tension, tight line, no slack, under control. Slowly, reluctantly the big fish comes in just under the surface gliding toward the net. It’s beautiful. Dark blue back, huge spots, snowy belly, rigid fins. Biggest of the trip, 25 maybe 27 pounds, Dan estimates. Kylan extends the net, the fish manages one last head shake. The line pops and time stops. Just beyond net range, the big king gives us a tail slap and glides into the green. Kylan is heartsick. Big ones always get away, we tell him. There will be others. And there are. The bite is smoking. We catch ten chinook, and keep two each, (Top to Bottom) Resort namesake in rounding out our Canadian action. Jan Conner caught this beauty. possession limits of four A Grady White fishing guide boat. each in two hours of bulldog fights, double hookups, scrambling backdeck dances. Four consecutive times on this incredible morning we have double hook-ups. A pair of bald eagles watch us play with their food and they seem amused. On the boat radio, we hear chatter between Eagle Nook and a passing sportfishing boat. “It is just crazy good this morning,” the mystery angler says, “Most fun I’ve ever had fishing. Just crazy,” Natalie and I grin. 20

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Eagle Nook Resort PO Box 289 Ucluelet, B.C., V0R 3A0, Canada 604.357.3361 www.eaglenook.com

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HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine is a proud sponsor of the Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada

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Lighthouses of Puget Sound

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Lighting the Way By Karen McGeorge Sanders

They lit the way for early travel and trade into Seattle. Lighthouses are an important part of Puget Sound’s history, since roads were scarce through the thick timber, but water abundant. Puget Sound’s lighthouse history is brought alive in six nearby lighthouses, including Browns Point, Point Robinson, Alki Point, Mukilteo, West Point and Point No Point: let them light your way to Northwest adventure. Browns Point Foggy. Reputed to have the longest periods of dense fog in the Puget Sound, Browns Point is at the entrance to Commencement Bay leading to Tacoma’s port. On December 12, 1887, it got its first light, a lantern on a pole, which was upgraded to a wooden lighthouse in 1903, then changed to a unique art deco concrete lighthouse in 1933. Coincidentally, the first resident keeper at Browns Point was Oscar Brown. A talented musician, he gave local children music lessons and attended concerts in Tacoma by rowing across Commencement Bay. But much of his time was spent fighting the fog. The striking mechanism for the 1200-pound fog bell had to be wound every 45 minutes. Worse was when the machinery failed. Then, Brown’s wife, Annie, would time the The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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required 20 second intervals and signal Oscar to strike the bell. The Points Northeast Historical Society offers renters a chance to stay in the keeper’s cottage and experience lighthouse life. Jeff Gales, U.S. Lighthouse Society executive director says, “The rehabilitation of the keeper’s quarters at the Browns Point Light Station is one of the finest examples of a restored historic keeper’s dwelling.” Point Robinson Fog net. Point Robinson’s location on Maury Island marks a sandy shoal extending into Puget Sound in an area referred to as the “fog net”. The Wilkes Expedition in 1841 originally named the area in honor of crewmember John Robinson. Point Robinson began as a fog signal in 1885, a lens lantern was added in 1887, and a wooden tower was built in 1894. In 1897 the keeper noted that the fog whistle blew a total of 528 hours and that he shoveled 35 tons of coal into the boiler. Recognizing the difficulty, an assistant keeper was assigned in 1903. The current lighthouse was constructed in 1915. 26

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Point Robinson has two quarters available for rental. Alki Point Alki Point has a tale of theft in its history. Located at the southern entrance of Seattle’s Elliot Bay, Alki Point was the spot where the first white settlers arrived in 1851. In 1868, the point’s owner, Hans Hanson, hung a lantern as a private navigational aid. An official lens lantern was placed on the site in 1887 and Hanson was paid $15 a month to tend the light. In 1913 a more permanent light and structures were built at Alki Point and Hanson’s lamp was put on display in the fog signal building. The Hanson lamp was stolen in 1970. It reappeared when a woman inquired at an antique dealer about a lamp purchased by her late husband, and returned it after finding it had been stolen. The lamp hadn’t been polished since the theft, so the original thief ’s fingerprints were still on the lamp, leading to his arrest. The lamp now resides in Seattle’s Coast Guard Museum. Alki Point is the site of the Coast Guard Admiral’s quarters. The

grounds are closed to the public, but lighthouse tours are available. West Point West Point is a hike. West Point Light marks a hazardous shoal and the northern entrance to Seattle’s Elliot Bay. A lighthouse was recommended as early as 1872, and a 27-foot tower was finally built in 1881. Fort Lawton became its neighbor in 1901, until it closed in 1964. In 1985, West Point became the last Washington lighthouse to be automated. West Point is located in Discovery Park, the largest Seattle park at 534 acres, occupying most of the former Fort Lawton site. West Point recently underwent a major renovation after receiving a $600,000 grant. It’s a 1.75-mile hike to the lighthouse, although driving passes are available for those physically unable to hike.The interior is closed, but visitors can walk around the lighthouse’s exterior, and it is a favorite spot to watch sunsets.

Mirabella Put yourself in the middle of it.

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Looking at Lighthouses This is the information for 2013. As these are mainly volunteer groups, times and rates may change, so check before going.

Browns Point: Open Saturdays, 1-4 pm from April through November. A three-bedroom keeper’s cottage is available for rental by the week at $880 for June-September, $950 July-August, and $550 from October-May, plus tax and a $25 membership to the historical society. Shorter stays available in winter at $125 weekdays and $175 weekends, with a two-night minimum. Contact www.pointsnortheast.org or (253)927-2536. Point Robinson: Open for tours May-September on Sundays 12-4 pm. To book tours call (206)463-6672 or captainjoe@ centurytel.net. Two keepers’ cottages rent at $1,380 to $1,580/ week peak season. Off season rent is $975 to $1,200/week with shorter stays at $225/night, with a two-night minimum. Contact www.vashonparkdistrict.org or (206)463-9602. Alki Point: Limited tours due to the homes still being used as Coast Guard residences. Open for tours June through August, Saturday and Sundays. Search “Alki Point lighthouse” online and look for the most current information. West Point: Open year round, 6 am - 11 pm, as part of Seattle’s Discovery Park, but only the lighthouse exterior. The Discovery Park visitor’s center is open Tuesday-Sunday 8:30am-5:00pm (206)386-4236. Mukilteo: Open April through September 12-5 pm weekends and holidays in Mukilteo. Contact www.mukilteohistorical.org or (425)513-9602. Point No Point: Open from April through September, weekends, 12-4 pm in Hansville. Contact www.pnplighthouse.com. Keeper’s quarters rent at $215/night with a minimum twonight stay on weekends. Contact the U.S. Lighthouse Society at (415)362-7255 or jeff@uslhs.org.

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Lighthouse Keeper Oscar Brown

Mukilteo A priceless artifact. Relatively new, the Mukilteo Lighthouse, with its 38-foot tower, was built in 1906 for $27,000. A local paper called it the “Best Lighthouse on the Sound.” It is easier to photograph than many, with shots available both from the ground and on water due to the neighboring Mukilteo ferry terminal. An important attraction for the town of Mukilteo, the lighthouse grounds are part of a $1.7 million remodel. Dubbed “a priceless artifact” by Jeff Gales of the Lighthouse Society, Mukilteo has the only working antique Fresnel lens system remaining in Washington lighthouses. “As lenses are replaced…any remaining lenses in service become invaluable as historical icons and cultural amenities,” states Mukilteo Historical Society President John Petroff.

Point No Point Odd name, with a combative start. In 1841, Lt. Charles Wilkes spotted a conspicuous spit, naming it Point No Point when it was found to be less prominent than originally thought. The oldest lighthouse on Puget Sound, the first signal was sent by former dentist, J.S. Maggs, via kerosene lamp on New Year’s Day 1880, before construction was completed on a day he described as “very cold and disagreeable.” More disagreeable was the relationship between Maggs and his assistant keeper, Manning. Numerous clashes were recorded in the keeper’s log including arguments about ringing the bell, name calling, locked doors, pistols, and threats until Manning was finally escorted off Point No Point. Point No Point is also home to the United States Lighthouse Society, an excellent resource for information, tours, and renting the Point No Point lighthouse keeper cottages. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Steelhead on the Brink By Natasha Dworkin

Saving Washington’s State Fish from Extinction On a misty, cool Pacific Northwest morning, beneath moss-draped evergreens, our tall rubber boots are trudging through verdant undergrowth toward the remote banks of the Duckabush River. Dressed in waders, we are on a mission: packing nets, snorkels, hoses and a machine that looks like a giant shop-vac. If all goes well, when we return down this path a few hours from now, we’ll be carrying hundreds of tiny seeds of hope for Washington’s imperiled state fish. We’re on our way to search for wild steelhead redds-- the loose, piled gravel nests that steelhead construct in the rivers and streams of our region; where they lay their eggs before returning out to sea. An experienced eye can easily spot a steelhead redd through the rippling water and amidst a gravelly camouflaged background. Fortunately, our

team includes two of the best steelhead redd surveyors around. Rick Endicott and Joy Waltermire, employees of Seattle-based non-profit Long Live the Kings (LLTK), have been seeking out steelhead redds in the Duckabush and other nearby Hood Canal rivers for a combined 20+ years. In partnership with NOAA and seven other agencies, they’ve been working on an expansive, basin-wide and scientifically based effort to revive struggling steelhead runs in three different rivers that empty into Hood Canal. Their work on the Hood Canal Steelhead Project is aimed at discovering whether or not salmon hatcheries can effectively play a role in helping to sustain wild steelhead populations in rivers where they might otherwise disappear. The Project, begun in 2007, has shown impressive results as well as

the potential to dramatically improve the ways that salmon and steelhead are managed in the long term, in Hood Canal and beyond. Here’s how it works: Rick and Joy (LLTK’s Lilliwaup Creek hatchery manager and steelhead biologist, respectively), often accompanied by staff and volunteers from one or more of the other partnering agencies, survey for steelhead redds on three different Hood Canal rivers-- the Duckabush, Dewatto, and South Fork Skokomish. Fertilized eggs are removed, or “pumped,” from the steelhead nests and brought into a hatchery environment to be reared until they are large and healthy enough to survive on their own in the wild. At that point, they are returned to their natal streams to be released. They live out the rest of their lives just as they would have had

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they hatched without any human intervention. To assure changes in steelhead populations are due to their efforts, the team also survey fish in three other rivers with no supplementation to control for natural variation. This work to help wild steelhead by rearing them in the protected context of a conservation hatchery is a critical backstop, as the populations have been on the decline for decades. One hundred years ago, steelhead returns to the Puget Sound region ranged from 325,000 to 800,000 annually. Today, that number has declined to roughly 13,000. Five distinct populations of Washington steelhead, including Puget Sound/Hood Canal steelhead, are now listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act. When the Hood Canal Steelhead Project’s early precedent-setting research began on the Hamma Hamma River, less than 20 adult steelhead were returning each year to spawn. After several years of hatchery-rearing the young fish to give them better odds of successfully facing the pressures brought about by a changing climate, overfishing, and other environmental factors, more than 100 steelhead now return to the Hamma Hamma annually (Inset, Top to Bottom) Long without human Live the Kings staff pump a assistance. steelhead redd-- or nest-- on “This project the Duckabush. Separating the demonstrates eggs from the gravel pumped that great from a steelhead redd. Eyed--or things can fertilized--eggs are measured and happen with a recorded before being transported well-developed to the hatchery for rearing. plan, welldefined goals, and a cooperative effort,” says Joy. In addition to driving real results in terms of the increased numbers of wild steelhead returning, the Hood Canal Steelhead Project is also helping to answer critical questions about the benefits and risks of conservation hatchery programs and the basic life-history 32

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of steelhead. It is providing guidance to federal and state fisheries managers as they design and implement new steelhead hatchery, management and recovery policies. The lessons being learned in Hood Canal are being looked to as a model of a new way to incorporate salmon hatcheries--traditionally utilized to produce the highest number of fish and without much regard for their health or the health of other fish in their watersheds--as a tool for wild fish recovery. On this day, we take several hundred fertilized (or “eyed”) eggs from two different redds on the Duckabush River. They will be carefully transported to LLTK’s Lilliwaup Creek Hatchery, where they’ll spend their early lives in an environment that closely resembles what they’d have experienced in the wild. They’ll live in low densities and clean spring water, free of pathogens and at an ideal temperature for steelhead; as they grow, they will resemble their wild-reared cousins—in appearance, behavior, and genetic makeup— more closely than they do most traditional hatchery fish. When they are ready, the young steelhead will be brought back to the Duckabush to be released. Strong, vibrant, and healthy, they’ll make their (Top to Bottom) LLTK way into the cold Hatchery Manager saltwater of Hood Rick Endicott and Canal, through Puget Steelhead Biologist Sound and the Salish Joy Waltermire with Sea. Some will vena young steelhead ture as far north as being reared at Alaska before turnLilliwaup Hatchery ing around to swim . Waltermire carries home to the Duckaand adult steelhead bush, and the ento the rivers edge for tire cycle will begin release. again. “I am excited,” Joy says, “about making a different kind of human impact; about nurturing wild steelhead and the waters on which they depend for my sons to enjoy throughout their lifetimes.” The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Cape Flattery

Neah Bay

Tatoosh I.

False Bay

Friday Harbor

San Juan Islands

Lime Kiln Pt.

Lopez Airport

n es at Ca t dS e it Un

Sekiu Clallam Bay

Jones I.

Roche Harbor Airport

Speiden I.

a ad

Pillar Pt.

Orcas

Island Rosario

o ait

Str an Ju d Port Angeles

Freshwater Bay Angeles Pt.

Sooke

Hrb

Nanaimo

ose

Nan o

Kuper I.

Discovery I.

Victoria

Butchart Gardens

Valdes I.

Silva Bay

James I. Sidney I.

Sidney

San Juan Islands

Lopez I.

Shaw I.

Pre

Smith I.

Deception Pass

Decatur I.

Blakely I.

Anacortes

Guemes I.

Cypress I.

Sinclair I.

Coal Harbour Indi

Abbotsford

Lake Samish

Bellingham Lake Whatcom

Bellingham International Airport

Blaine

White Rock

Skagit Regional Airport

Samish Bay

Portage I.

Bellingham Bay

Sandy Pt. Lummi Bay

Birch Bay

Semiahmoo

Boundary Bay

Sky Pilot Mtn. 6,663 ft./2031m

Squamish

Mt. Burwell 5,056 ft./1541m

Boundary Bay Airport

Richmond

Lummi I.

Matia I.

Sucia I.

Patos I.

Point Roberts

Pt. Doughty

Speiden I.

nne t Cha siden

Waldron I.

Iceberg Pt.

Cattle Pt.

Saturna I.

Lyall Harbour

Mayne I.

Miner’s Bay

Gulf Islands

Tsawwassen

Westham I.

Vancouver

Pt. Grey

Burrard Inlet

Pt. Atkinson

Bowen I.

Anvil I.

Horseshoe Bay

Gambier I.

ough Chann el n br

Coa st

Olympia to Nanaimo

Thor

How e So und

Keats I.

Vancouver International Airport/ Fraser River

Johns I.

Griffin Bay

San Juan Island

Henry I.

Gibsons

Bedwell Harbour Stuart I.

Moresby I.

Port Washington

Montague Harbour Ganges

Sechelt

Strait of Georgia

Galiano I.

Telegraph Harbour

Thetis I.

Victoria International N. & S. Airport/Patricia Bay Pender Is.

Duncan

Maple Bay

Chemainus

Ladysmith

Nanaimo Airport

Inner Harbour

Sooke Lake

Fidalgo I.

Anacortes

Vancouver Island

Allan I.

Burrows I.

Sperry Peninsula

Decatur I.

Sinclair I.

Mt. Constitution 2,407 ft./734m

Matia I.

Sucia I.

Eastsound

Blakely I.

uc eF Lake Crescent

Camp Orkila

West Sound

Fisherman Bay

Shaw I.

San Juan Deer Harbor Island

Roche Harbor

Henry I.

Waldron I.

Skipjack I.

ss I. Cypr e

Johns I.

Isla

Lopez

Bamfield

s I.

Soun

Patos I.

me Gue

Stuart I.

Sa an ich Inlet

East

Parksville

Bay

sula

Sound

an ich ow

d ich P enin

Barkley

Islan

Orcas

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rait

West Sound

nel

spri

io St

Stuart Chan

Salt

Ros ar

a I. l anne San Juan Ch

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Gab

Saan

Haro Strait

t Bay

as e Co lla

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s ntain u o M Arm

South Zone Destination Map

Miles 60 70 70 70 130 160 200 210 230 300 310

Olympia

e Cas

Gig Harbor

Inl

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Joint Base Lewis-McChord

an Isl

Tacoma

Tacoma Narrows Br.

Port Hadlock

on ssi

nd Sou

Hat I.

Auburn

Lake Youngs

Kenmore Air Harbor

Issaquah

Lake Sammammish

Kirkland Bellevue

gto

Seattle-Tacoma Renton International Airport

n shi

Lake Union

Seattle

Elliott Bay

Lake Tapps

Clinton

Langley

Port Susan

lla

LaConner

Pad i

Everett

lley

Arlington

lag

uam ish V a

lley

Burlington Mount Vernon S kag it V a

Skagit Regional Airport

Lake Stevens

Lake Goodwin

Skagit Bay

Fida l

Port sse Gamble Possession Pt. Po Paine Field Kingston Edmonds

Scatchet Pt.

Double Bluff Useless Bay Pt. No Point

Freeland

Cove

Keystone

Pen n

Oak Harbor

Pt. Wilson

Bush Pt.

Hood Canal Br.

Boeing Field

Blake I.

dg bri

e I.

Poulsbo

Bangor

Kiana Lodge

Maury I.

sh Va

Bremerton

B ob

Clam Cannery Retreat

Deception Pass

NAS Whidbey Island

Coupeville Port Townsend

Protection I.

Port Ludlow Quilcene

Sequim Bay

Sequim

Dungeness Spit

Smith I.

Destinations from Olympia to Nanaimo

American Lake

Fox I.

ach

y Re uall Nisq

Ne il

r Car

Belfair

Tacoma Narrows Airport

Inl

I. on ers

And

Alderbrook

Kit

ula enins P p a s

Brinnon Seabeck

7,756 ft./2364m

Mt. Constance

7,788 ft./2374m

The Brothers 6,842 ft./2085m

ana od C

7,365 ft./2245m

ins

Mt. Deception

ou nta

6,454 ft./1967m

Mt. Angeles

ic M

West Peak

Lake Cushman

Olympia Regional Airport

Time 35–40 mins. 35–45 mins. 35 mins. 45 mins. 1hr., 15 mins. 1 hr., 30 mins. 1 hr., 50 mins. 1 hr., 55 mins. 2 hrs. 2 hrs., 35 mins. 2 hrs., 40 mins.

Times are approximate for non-stop flights

From Seattle Friday Harbor Orcas Island Port Angeles Victoria Nanaimo Sechelt Peninsula Desolation Sound Campbell River Big Bay Port McNeill Sullivan Bay

Route Distances & Flight Times

let

Lake Quinault

7,969 ft./2429m

Mt. Olympus

d In Bud

e I.

Inlet

Oly

Harts tin

sco very Bay

Puge t

assage

Saratog a

Isla nd

Whidbey Ho lm

es H arbor

no I. Cam a

Port Angeles

Indian I. Marro wston e I.

So u nd Lake Wa rcer I.

Adm iralt y

s Three Fingers 6,850 ft./2088m

nta in de M Cas c

ay Oak B

l Sti

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Critter Cove

t Tlupana Inle

Bligh I.

Strange I.

Tahsis

Sou

lls We

ize

Sey mou

Bel

Psge.

Inl et

Sou

ughto n

N. Bro I.

ow n

led

Ha rb I.

r I.

Tur n

Blackfish Lodge

Baker I.

Vernon Lake

5,440 ft./1658m

Victoria Peak 7,083 ft./2159m

Tribune

Kwatsi Bay

Kingcome Inlet

W. T hur low I sla

ke I .

wic

and Chn

Inlet

Kn i gh t

Lower

Campbell River

Blind Channel

Har d

Sunderl

Hkusam Mtn. 5,397 ft./1645m

Sayward

Port Neville

Call

gh rou hb o

Hill I.

Marina I.

Gorge Harbour

Subtle Is.

Okisollo

nle

Cor de

d lan d Is Rea

Maurelle Island

Sonora Island

Mt. Van der Est 5,909 ft./1801m

Stuart I.

Ram

Raza I. P age ryce Pass Deer

West

Estero Peak Bute 5,459 ft./1664m

Cordero Lodge

Knight Inlet Lodge

Discovery Islands & Desolation Sound

n el

a Tob

Stuart Island

Raza I.

Big Bay Nanook Lodge

r ne A

Inle t

t Eas

Bliss Landing

Prideaux Haven

Mink Island Gov’t Dock Seattle Yacht Club

Cortes Bay

Refuge Cove

Teake

West Redondo Island

Rendezvous Lodge

Toba Wildernest

Hernando I.

Twin Is.

Hollyhock

Cortes Island

Penn Is.

Maurelle Island

Hole in the Wall

nd sla I ad Re k yn Hos

Main Lk.

April Point

Heriot Bay

Quadra Island

Ka nis h

Island

Sonora Resort

Sonora

Dent Island Lodge Morgan’s Landing

Dolphins Resort Steep Island Mansons Landing

el ann Nodales Ch

Quadra Island

Tyee Spit

nzi

Passage

Campbell River/

East Thurlow Island

g Lou

Inlet

Knight Inlet Adventures Lagoon Cove

Thompson Snd .

Pierre’s at Echo Bay

Channel

Shawl Bay

Frank’s Fishing Lodge

Corsan Peak 6,345 ft./1934m

Gilford Paddler’s Inn Island

Upper Campbell Lk.

Farewell Harbour Jo W Laton Lodge hnsto . Cracro ft I. ne Mt. Derby Port Harvey

Hanson I.

Alert Bay

Bonwick I.

Sund’s Lodge

Eden I.

Nimmo Bay

Sullivan Bay

Jennis Bay

Inle t

son

Ali

Greenway Sound Bro ugh ton I

Numas I.

Nu gen t

Pacific Outback Resort

Telegraph Cove

lcol

trai t

ver u o nc

Channel

Nootka Sound

Nootka Island

Esperanza

Inlet

Zeballos

ton S

Rugged Mtn. 6,106 ft./1861m

Deserters Group Is.

False Head

Peel & Deer Is.

Hardy Bay

Port McNeill

Port Hardy Airport

Fair Harbour

Esperan za

Sound

Kyuquot

Port Alice

Inl

Lake

Drake I.

erg

Ho lb

Neroutsos Inl

Port Hardy

Lake

Alice

Zeballos In let

nd.

Wakeman S

Walker Group Is.

ish Lak e Nimpk

Victori a

nle

sa I

ino

Esp

Lak e

an n el

Nigei I.

Inl

Tahs is

Lewis Channel

Hope I.

Passage

Nanaimo to Port Hardy

Discovery l Calm Chnl.

a it Str

ne Chan

say A

f t I. E. Cracro

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ug Bro

Pe n

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Mo u n t ains

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s Ch

eta Gol

Inl

40 ry Dru

Re do n

North Zone Destination Map

C ha n

Islan

Hes qui at

a sul

Hesqu ia t H rbr

Island

Long Beac

dy Lk

Vancouver Island

Gillies Bay

Parksville

Hrb

Gab riol a I.

ic Cow han

Galiano I.

Silva Bay

d Hotham Hea Sound Foley of nce Pri

Garden Bay Madeira Park

Princess Royal Reach

Sechelt

Pt. Grey

Burrard Inlet

Pt. Atkinson

Anvil I.

Horseshoe Bay

How e So und Keats I.

Bowen Island

Gibsons

Gambier I.

ough Chann el n br

Salmon Inlet

I Narrows

Phantom Mtn. 6,181 ft./1902m

Malibu Camp

Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

Mt. Tinniswood 8,550 ft./2606m

West Coast Wilderness Lodge

Egmont

Pender Harbour

Strait of Georgia

N. & S. Thormanby Is.

Secret Cove

Sakinaw Lake Lodge

Nelson I.

Jerv is In let Hardy I.

Powell River

Lake

Goat Island

e ll Pow

let

Nanaimo Airport

Lund

I. Nanaimo

ose

Nan o

Qualicum Beach

Hornby I.

o n S o u nd olati Des Mink I.

on Red

t Eas

n el

Sun s Coa

e Lak

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Destinations from Nanaimo to Port Hardy

Mt. Arrowsmith 6,296 ft./1919m

Cameron Lake

Horne Lake

Denman I.

Cape Lazo

Blubber Bay

Harwood I.

Savary I.

Hernando I.

Twin Is.

West Redondo Island

ne shi

Pachena Pt.

Haggard Cove

i ern Alb

Inle

Port Alberni

S pr oat La ke

Elsie Lake

Courtney

Comox

Mittlenatch I.

Marina I.

eti

Bamfield

Cen tra

ox Lake Com

Discovery Cape Mudge

Cortes Island

qu Las

Henderson Lake

Eagle Nook

ea t

The Red Pillar 6,673 ft./2034m

Mt. Harmston 6,591 ft./2009m

Oyster River

Campbell River Airport

Lower Campbell Lk.

nl. Wad dington Ch

Campbell River

Broken Group Is. nel Chan l Eagle ia r s I. e Imp Tzartu Trevor Channe

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

ann on Ch Loud

ke La nn

Barkley Sound

Kenn e

I Tofino

Golden Hinde 7,201 ft./2195m

Gold River

Elkhorn Mtn. 7,198 ft./2194m

nd Sou

a Ch

Amphitrite Pt.

Ucluelet

let

t In

Inlet Ho mfr ay Channel

do I.

Sutil Ch

Sa e bin

ber Her

Tofino

Tofino-Ucluelet Airport

Clayoquot Sound

Vargas I.

Ahousat

Hot Springs Cove Flores

Shelter Inlet

Boat Basin

Cha nn

Mil lar

Lake

Buttle

nin

chal a

d un So we ll Be d

let

Me are s

Coast ach Wales Re

Sound

Isla Texada

Sechelt

Penin sula

Baynes

Inlet

Ma Strait

Sechelt

sula Penin

ina lasp

nle t

Ranges Reach

Thor

land Malaspina

ens

Mo n t a gu C han n

n Que

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Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004 With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

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Daily scheduled seaplane flights between Seattle’s Lake Union or Lake Washington and downtown Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Complementary shuttle to/from Sea-Tac Airport.

From Cuban Cigars to Irish Lace...

By Susan Colby

...and everything in between. Victoria, British Columbia, that very English, yet very cosmopolitan city is an international shopper’s paradise. Within the downtown area of this eminently walkable city, visitors and residents alike will certainly find whatever their hearts desire. Recently, a friend and I headed into Victoria on a quick shopping trip (after all, it’s more fun to shop with a friend!) and were fortunate to stay at the Magnolia Hotel and Spa, a boutique hotel on Courtney Street, right in the middle of the shopping action and within an easy walk or taxi ride of the seaplane base in the Inner Harbor. After checking in to our luxurious room and armed with cash and credit cards, we set out to explore. Of course, along the waterfront and along Government Street, we ran into the usual tourist shops, with t-shirts, mugs and other unnecessary gewgaws. (Does your mother really need a cheap teaspoon with the Victoria seal on it?) But tucked in between and hidden down alleys are the true treasures of Victoria. First Nation and Canadian art and jewelry is well represented here. We browsed Artina’s and were wowed by the quality and variety of art and 44

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jewelry. The artists include aboriginal West Coast carvers and contemporary jewelers who work with gold, silver, titanium and other materials. I was particularly entranced with the glassware, beautifully etched with traditional First Nation emblems. A short walk up Fort Street and right across from our lunch spot at the London Chef is the aptly named Cuban Cigar Shop. Not being a cigar smoker, but loving the smell of (unlit) cigars, we ventured inside to find an astonishing array of cigars and smoking supplies. Not just the 24 brands of Cuban cigars fill the temperature and moisture controlled cases, but cigars from all over the world. Some of the

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prices for the specialty smokes are out of this world, but for cigar aficionados, it is heaven. Remember, though, you can’t take them back into the States! Strolling back towards the Inner Harbor, we stopped in at Choux Choux Charcuterie, a tiny sidewalk shop filled with delicious meats, cheeses and specialty food items. You can enjoy a delightful plat du jour, perhaps duck confit salad with boiled duck egg, cucumber and pickled red onion, at one of the tiny sidewalk tables. As we had just had lunch, we simply inhaled the delicious aromas and meandered on. You can rest assured that no matter how long and hard you shop, you will never have to go far to find food in Victoria, which boasts the second-highest number of restaurants per capita of all North American cities. And the variety is endless, from traditional English pubs with pub lunches and beer, to fine dining in restaurants like Catalano, the establishment attached to the Magnolia. Going along with the foodie theme, for those who love to cook, there are numerous kitchenware stores, jammed floor-to-ceiling with

Shopping in Victoria, BC

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kitchen goodies! We stopped in at several during our explorations and were amazed at the variety and the unique goods that are available. After stopping in at a used bookstore along the way, we headed to Johnson Street and Market Square, both areas filled with eclectic shopping. In the summer, there are buskers all around town, and LoJo, or Lower Johnson Street often has musicians playing on the sidewalk. Bastion Square, at View and Government Streets has a lively open-air market from April through October. This a pedestrian-only zone and is home to the Maritime Museum of BC, which is reputed to be haunted and hosts regular ghost hunts throughout the year. The stands that line the walk are intriguing, ranging from seasonal treats of chocolate-dipped, local and organic strawberries to hand-crafted, soft dolls in a variety of styles, including the pirate Jack Sparrow and Little Red Riding Hood. Another hidden gem on Government Street is the Irish Linen Store, which is housed in a building that was originally the Brown Jug Inn. In business since 1910, the store is a treasure trove of fine linens, dishtowels and handkerchiefs, just like the ones we carried as children, all embroidered and trimmed with lace. You’ll also find rare, linen bath towels, bright tablecloths and napkins, all carefully folded and stored in tissue paper. Entering this store is like stepping back into the past, right down to the handwritten receipts. We were pleasantly surprised to see very few “Made in China” labels in the general downtown area, which of course were prevalent, and rightfully so, in Chinatown, which is the oldest in Canada and second in age only to San Francisco’s in North America. A visit to Victoria is not complete without a visit to Chinatown. With its classic entrance, The Gates of Harmonious Interest, the area is a thriving retail center, with Chinese grocery 46

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spur of the moment that we had to be content with shopping for exclusive Empress teas, jams and preserves at the store in the classic hotel. Besides the hundreds of unique shops, restaurants and bars in the city core, you can still find brand name stores unpretentiously tucked into the mix, including Tilley and Eddie Bauer. What you won’t find are big box stores or flashing neon signs; fast food chains are non-existent. What you will find is old world charm, eclectic shopping, stunning architecture, great international food and friendly people. The Magnolia Hotel often runs Shopper Specials, a favorite being the Victoria’s Secret Shoppers Package, which is available during the off-season, starting in September. After a long day of shopping at a list of handpicked boutiques, guests can relax in the spa or enjoy dinner and enjoy the luxurious accommodations at special rates.

“#2 Best Hotel in Canada”Travel+Leisure-2012

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and clothing stores and numerous restaurants. You’ll also find some of Victoria’s contemporary home decor and furnishings stores in this area. The streets are redolent of incense that wafts from the stores. And don’t miss Fan Tan Alley, reputedly Canada’s narrowest road. For tea lovers, Chinatown’s Silk Road is deemed Canada’s most beautiful tea store by Wine Access Magazine. The experts there offer tea tastings and workshops, including interesting combinations such as tea and chocolate pairing, or learn about the traditional Chinese Tea Ceremony, said to be one of the best methods of brewing tea. All the products, including Silk Road’s spa and aromatherapy products are organic. When I think of Victoria, I think of the Empress Hotel and Afternoon Tea! This is a time-honored tradition at the Fairmont Empress and usually requires a reservation. Our trip was so

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MEET BOUTIQUE. The Oswego Hotel offers a unique boutique meeting experience by day and the ultimate retreat by night. Visit oswegovictoria.com for special meeting packages and bookings.

Victoria Shopping Artina’s 1002 Government St Victoria, BC V8W 1X7 250.386.7000

Chou Chou Charcuterie 830 Fort Street, Victoria, BC V8W 1H8 250.382.7572 Irish Linen Stores 1019 Government Street Victoria, BC 250.383.6812 Magnolia Hotel & Spa Catalano Restaurant & Cicchetti Bar 623 Courtney Street, Victoria, B.C. Canada 877.624.6654 Silk Road Tea 1624 Government Street Victoria, BC V8W 1Z3 250.704.2688 (press 2)

500 Oswego Street | Victoria, BC | T:250.294.7500 | 1.877.767.9346 reservations@oswegovictoria.com | oswegovictoria.com

CHIC. URBAN. INDIVIDUAL.

IN THE HEART OF VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA

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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties

An Alternative Waterfront

By Russ Young

One of Lake Union’s Most Attractive and Sustainable Houseboats

Patti & Mike Sherlock and their housboat “Aurora”

It’s probably safe to say that almost anyone who has lived in Seattle has wondered what it would be like to live on a houseboat. And they are joined by the millions of people worldwide who have dreamed about the same thing after seeing Tom Hanks’ floating home in “Sleepless in Seattle.” Patti and Mike Sherlock are living that dream in a very big way – at home on their 4,700 square-foot, three-level houseboat, “Aurora.” In Mike’s words, “Life aboard Aurora is like waking up every morning on vacation – for 10 years.”

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Despite its size, their home is a collection of relatively small spaces, including three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a movie theater that seats eight in overstuffed leather chairs, an office, and a spacious-yet-compact kitchen and dining nook. An outside deck overlooks a barbeque area that once held a lap pool. The pool was taken out to give more space for entertaining family and friends. As Mike says, “If we really want to swim, we just jump in the lake,” although a hot tub is planned as an alternative to cold water. The “Ranch Room,” so named in honor of Patti’s upbringing on a ranch in Vale, Oregon, features four of her father’s cowboy hats and his leather chaps, along with an eclectic mix of collectable items. The adjacent sunroom offers an almost priceless view of Lake Union and houses a collection of handmade birdhouses that are replicas of actual lighthouses. The Sherlocks have more than 100 such models stashed in various nooks and crannies. Aurora holds a number of other collections: walking canes, yard birds, miniature carvings from Alaska and Alice in Wonderland memorabilia. Mike jokes that the houseboat was built for their collected treasures, while Patti points out that the collections are actually a means of storytelling – “we like our homes to tell stories.” Their storytelling ability – and their incredible attention to detail – ome to light as they point out the Bertazzoni range and its Ferrari Burgundy finish; the 14 Art Deco theater sconces that are reproductions of an antique they loved; the poured-glass cabinet fronts; and the custom-milled moldings. Every interior light is dimmable; each of the 150 double-hung windows open, tilt and lift out for easy cleaning. Selfleveling tanks in the hull mean that congregated guests at one end do not make Aurora list. A hatch in the floor and a hidden passageway at the end of a window seat lead to a secret under-stair “fort”

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A comfy theater room perfect for viewing movies on a rainy Seattle day. built with grandchildren in mind. As much as that sounds like every kid’s dream, Mike points out that the laundry chutes are sized to be too small for adventurous kids. There are 26 varieties of wood used throughout the home, with a minimal amount of painted space. Mike says, “Wood is sustainable, warm, comfortable and never goes out of style.” The flooring includes cherry, hickory and fir, while the walls are primarily birch, maple and cherry. The ceilings throughout are clear cedar. Despite the Arts and Crafts styling of the home, it is a model of modern technology and energy efficiency. Solar panels generate a share of their electricity; two pellet stoves provide most of the heat; rainwater is captured for watering plants; and all of the lighting is low (12-volt) voltage. Aurora is named for the 2,500 foot-

long bridge that passes almost directly overhead; the path of Aurora Avenue, also known as State Highway 99. It’s one of 17 houseboats built by Mike’s company – the suitably named Sherlock Homes. A dozen can be found on Lake Union, three are in Alaska and two are afloat in Portland. Mike, who was raised in Washington on Whidbey Island, is a cross between a rugged Pacific Northwestern fisherman/boatbuilder and a Renaissance man, who says that “everything that someone does is a form of art.” Aurora’s design was hatched from Mike’s imagination. He used pencil and paper to produce properly scaled overhead views of each room, including furnishings. He also hand drew each wall surface to consider details and to make the design come to life before it was turned over to architects for construction specifications.

It took five years to build, using an eight-person full-time crew. The Sherlocks say they are often asked what Aurora would sell for; they won’t speculate. Their first houseboat was “Alice”, an 1,800 square-foot home they describe as a “cool little cabin,” built to see if they would like it. Mike says, “We didn’t realize how much we were going to love it. We immediately began asking, ‘How fast can we get rid of our house in Mukilteo?’” Among the things that captivated them are the sights and sounds of their dockside home, including the neighboring rowing club; the horn on the nearby Fremont drawbridge; seaplanes flying overhead; and a nonstop stream of boats ranging from kayaks to barges laden with gravel and sand. (Surprisingly, there is very little noise from the bridge, more than 150 feet above.)

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Spacious jacuzzi tub with a view. Master bathroom.

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Master bedroom with lookout. Open dining area adjacent to gourmet galley.

Eco-friendly and contemporary laundry room. A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. 54

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Are you heading Home or to a mArinA? Consider setting course to YoUr oWn PriVATe DoCK AT YoUr neW Home!

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Both the Sherlocks are entrepreneurs, having sold their past businesses (Patti’s custom-software company and Mike’s shipyard) to devote their energies to their latest enterprise, the Fremont Mischief distillery. It’s a short stroll or bike ride to work, along Seattle’s Burke-Gilman Trail. “Aurora is about the second half of our lives,” says Patti. Indeed, the couple built in an elevator that stands ready if/when the stairways become too much of a challenge for them. Their home is not without controversy. Seattle placed a moratorium on new floating houses in 1990, but Aurora is a boat registered in Washington state. Some critics, including the Seattle Department of Planning and Development, question if it is truly a live-aboard vessel. Mike and Patti say their “foundation” is an aluminum barge built to U.S. Coast Guard standards. Aurora is steerable, is powered by twin 35-kilowatt

diesel/electric motors with 22-inch propellers and has a bow-thruster for maneuvering. Responding to claims that houseboats are not environmentally friendly, they describe the storage tanks for sewage and greywater that are pumped out regularly for disposal, as well as the bilge-water filtration system, and point out the salmon fingerlings and bass that live under their dock, as well as visiting raccoons, beavers, a heron and a genial river otter. The Sherlocks are staunch defenders of the live-aboard lifestyle – and they intend to fight vigorously to maintain it. “We can no longer imagine living anywhere other than here,” says Patti. “And we can’t imagine Seattle without houseboats.” Controversy notwithstanding, there are dreamers – both local and global – who would agree … and would no doubt be enchanted by Aurora.

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ED HANDJA Personal Real Estate Corporation & SHELLEY MCKAY Your BC OCEANFRONT TEAM Specializing in Unique Coastal Real Estate in British Columbia

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Scenic view of Lake Union from Aurora’s front deck. The main floor sitting room reflects the lifestyle and family memories of Mike and Patti’s past and future. “Guardians Of The Lake” The Lake Union Liveaboard Association is dedicated to protecting Seattle waters and is frequently involved in environmental cleanups, green boating activities and public awareness. The community is deeply concerned about our waters and their commitment to keeping our waters clean and green is second to none. They frequently protect the waters, save lives, and protect property. Their proposals relating to living on the water are sound, reasonable, and in the best interests of the liveaboard community, Seattle waters and the Seattle lifestyle. They support all styles of vessels. www.lakeunionliveaboard.com.

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Dragon boats are 41â&#x20AC;&#x2122; long and carry up to 20 paddlers on ten benches. A standing steersperson guides the boat and a seated drummer pounds out the paddling cadence.

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Seattle’s Flying Dragons The Sport of Dragon Boat Racing By Sue Frause

It’s a Wednesday evening on Lake Union. Kenmore Air float planes are taking off and landing, sailboats are plying the summer waters and a group of three dozen or so people are doing warm up exercises in the Kenmore Air Terminal parking lot – all wearing PFD’s (personal flotation devices). So what’s up with the PFD’s? Turns out the men and women are all members of the Seattle Flying Dragons, a group that participates in the sport of dragon boat racing. For the uninitiated, dragon boat racing is the oldest continuously practiced team sport in the world, dating back 2,400 years to China. Today, it’s that country’s national sport and has evolved into an international competitive sport. An estimated 50 million people participate in dragon boat paddling in more than 100 countries, making it one of the fastest growing water sports in the world. Fong Ng, who was born in Malaysia and is of Chinese descent, joined the Seattle Flying Dragons in 2011. “I was looking for some form of exercise other than running,” said Ng, a computer consultant who moved to Seattle three decades ago. He considered rowing, but while watching the Windermere Cup, which marks springtime’s opening day of boating season, the lead boat caught his eye. It was one of Seattle Flying Dragons’ three dragon boats, adorned with a colorful head and tail. Ng went to the group’s practices and ended up becoming a member of the team. Today,

With all of its multiple uses Seattle’s Lake Union is a fascinating place to be on the water. he’s a passionate promoter of the club, saying that it’s more than just about paddling around the lake. “It’s about learning, having fun and the camaraderie amongst the people you meet,” said Ng. “And we’re also here for community outreach and getting everyone interested in dragon boating.” The Seattle Flying Dragon Boat Club, a non-profit corporation, has been operating out of Seattle’s Lake Union since 2004. That’s when Kenmore Air donated free moorage for the group’s three dragon boats, which are tied up on the backside of one of the company’s float plane docks. The club has 100 members and practices are held four times a week. The 41-ft. concave-bottom fiberglass boats, made in Germany, each hold 20 paddlers plus a steer person at the stern and a

drummer at the bow. During competitions, an ornate dragon’s head and tail are affixed to the ends of each boat. The dragon boats are designed to go straight and fast, reaching speeds of up to 15 mph, covering a 500-meter course in less than two minutes. Traditionally, dragon boats sprint race on straight-line courses of 250, 500 or 1,000 meters. Occasionally, races of 6-8 miles are also held. Ng emphasizes that dragon boat racing is a team sport and there are no “heroes” on a boat. “Each paddler is an equal contributor,” said Ng. The Seattle Flying Dragons’ website describes it as “a team sport in its purest form that encompasses the elements of power, speed, synchronization and endurance.” It accommodates a broad spectrum of skill levels, from novice to competitive. And it’s a

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low-impact, full-body workout. Practices are held year round and only snow, ice or heavy fog stops the show. Donna Zeller, one of the group’s newer members, attended her first practice in February of 2013. She was on a third date with Mike Grove, a three-year member of the Seattle Flying Dragons. It was dark, it was cold, and Zeller was a non-swimmer. “I was scared,” said Zeller, “but now I really enjoy it.” Both Zeller and Grove were part of two teams that represented the Seattle Flying Dragon Boat Club in the 2013 Kaohsiung Dragon Boat Festival in Taiwan. In late 2012, the Seattle-Kaohsiung Sister City Association received an invitation from the Kaohsiung City Government to send a dragon boat team to the competition. Two teams were recruited by the Seattle Flying Dragon Boat Club, resulting in a mixed team of 12 men and eight women and a women’s team of 12 women. Some were experienced paddlers, many were new to the sport. The Seattle teams flew to Taiwans’s second largest city of Koahsiung in June of 2013, where they participated in the five-day international competition and cultural exchange. They were the only teams representing the USA out of 135 (Top to Bottom) Seattle from around the world. Flying Dragons have An estimated 40,000 introduced more than people watched the colorful races from the 5,000 new paddlers shore. In the end, the Seto the sport. Fong Ng. attle mixed team placed Boats are decorated third overall in internawith ornate dragon tional “traditional boat” heads and tails. racing category, which earned them $10,000NT ($337.20USD) in prize money. They donated it to a Kaohsiung middle school to be used for programs in international relations. The women’s team placed sixth in international traditional racing out of nine teams. Back at home, the paddlers on Lake Union range in age from 14 to 87. Although there’s a minimum age of 18, youth 12 and older may paddle when 60

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accompanied by an adult. The Seattle Flying Dragons offers a unique program, where the first three practices are free to interested paddlers. It’s a good way to test the waters to see if the sport is a good fit. After that, the dues are $100 a year. All equipment is provided, including the 4-foot paddles and PFD’s. Regular practices are held Mondays and Wednesdays at 6 pm, Saturdays at 8 am and Sundays at 3 pm. During spring and summer, paddlers can opt to compete in a variety of dragon boat races and events. Races are held around the Pacific Northwest, from Vancouver BC to Portland. Annual events include the Windermere Cup, Clean Sweep of Lake Union and the Seattle Dragon Boat Festival in July.

The Seattle Flying Dragons represented the City of Seattle in Kaohsiung, Taiwan (Seattle’s sister city) in June, 2013 winning 3rd place in their festival’s International Division. Team member ages ranged from 19 to 87 demonstrating the broad appeal of the sport.

Seattle Flying Dragon Boat Club (425) 954-3129

www.SeattleFlyingDragons.org The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Testing the Waters

By Susan Colby

Puget Sound Water Monitoring Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a match made in heaven, or at least in the skies over Puget Sound. For many years, the Kenmore Air deHavilland Beaver has been an integral part of the Puget Sound Marine Water Quality Monitoring project, a Federal program run under the auspices of the Washington State Department of Ecology (ECY). With the ability to fly low and slow over the Sound and with experienced pilots, the program provides important and timely information to the Department about the health of Puget Sound. With 39 core stations, which are 62

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visited once a month (weather permitting), understanding and respecting sea and weather conditions are paramount, as these stations are, to the uneducated eye, random points at random spots around the Sound. These are actually historical points of reference used by a number of agencies, including the University of Washington, to collect data. They are all marked as waypoints in the onboard GPS, with no actual buoys or X to mark the spot. The testing stations extend from the North Sound and the San Juan Islands, to the Central Sound and

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Whidbey Basin, Hood Canal, South Sound and all the way out the coast at Grays Harbor and Willapa Bay. A Unique Partnership What makes this partnership so unique is not only that it is the only marine water monitoring project in the world that uses floatplanes as the testing platform, but more importantly, the relationships that have grown within the program; friendships that continue long after leaving either employer and even the Puget Sound area. The friendships and collaboration

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between government employees and those in the private sector is gratifying and an uncommon occurrence. Chuck Perry, Kenmore Air’s Chief Pilot flew the Ecology trips for many years, but seven years ago handed the responsibility to Joe Leatherman, who Chuck says is the consummate pilot for the job. For Joe, this has added a whole new dimension to his flying. He said, “From day one, we started working together as a team.” He has come to understand and appreciate what the technicians do and in his on-the-job training, has become experienced in water sampling and other aspects of the tech’s jobs, which help facilitate completion of the tasks required on each flight. And the understanding and appreciation go both ways. Laura Friedenberg, one of the Ecology Marine Water Technicians who flies with Kenmore Air said how important it is to have pilots who understand what the techs are doing and are willing to work around some of the obstacles. Mya Keysers, also a technician said, “Joe is amazing. I don’t know if I could do this without his help.” Although the pilot’s primary function is to fly the plane safely, they understand how important it is to everyone involved, to get the job done. It takes a different mind-set and a thorough understanding of weather and water conditions to accomplish the type of flying required. Chuck, a former Alaska bush pilot, has an uncanny knack for flying. He plays the plane as he would a fine instrument, finessing it to perform and cooperate, a necessity for the type of flying required for these flights. For these water-monitoring trips, the usual passenger seats are removed 64

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Citizen Scientist to make space for the equipment necessary for the testing. For each flight, all the testing equipment has to be loaded and installed securely on board. This is not small, lab-style test tubes and gauges. First, an ungainly modular gantry for the electric winch is erected over the floor hatch; then two large and heavy-duty 12v batteries to power the winch are battened down; and the very expensive and complex CTD (conductivity-temperature-depth) profiling package, the core testing unit in the program, is carefully suspended from the gantry. Next comes all the actual testing equipment, sample bottles and vials to transport the samples back to the lab and the Toughbook laptop used to record the data, plus all the cords and cables associated with the equipment. In the end, Mya and Laura are left with a tiny space to squeeze in to and work. Teamwork Well-oiled teamwork kicks in as the floatplane comes in low over the water and the pilot calls distance to mark. Sometimes with a little help from a headwind or tailwind and the ever present current, but always with great skill, he brings the plane to a standstill within feet of the waypoint. For Chuck, it’s a matter of pride. “Every time I do this, I try to do better,” he claims. Once the plane is on site, Mya and Laura get to work, lowering the

CTD to the exact depth – with the pilot assisting with timing the drop and helping to record results of the water tests. With so much equipment on board, there are inevitably breakdowns and glitches. Joe and Chuck are always ready to assist, repairing or jury-rigging anything they can, in the interest of keeping the project on track. The Kenmore pilots and the ECY technicians not only consider each other colleagues and team mates, but friends as well. They talk about their families – Mya recently had a baby and Chuck and Joe follow Louella’s progress as concerned friends. The onboard discussions switch easily between the state of the current algae bloom being collected, the DO (dissolved oxygen) content in a sample, the up-coming weekend weather, vacation days coming up and the fun they all had at a recent party attended by both Kenmore Air and ECY people. “It’s a different vibe,” Joe asserts, “when you spend 11 to 12 hours in a small plane with people. We’ve ended up with a working family.” From an outsider’s perspective, there is no division of loyalties within this group. This is a cohesive team forged through years of cooperation and understanding that is providing results that ultimately benefit the waters of Puget Sound and all who live here.

The primary pilot for the Department of Ecology Marine Flight Program, Joe Leatherman, is an eight-year veteran Kenmore Air pilot and regards his position as unique. Although he has no official scientific background, other than basic high school science and physics, he has become an integral part of the team, with what he calls his on-the-job training. He assists with the paper logs, hand sampling water and data entry and says working long days in the confined space of the floatplane adds a different vibe to the job. But even more than working with the team, he has learned to be a keen observer of the Puget Sound’s condition while flying his normal passenger flight schedule around the Sound and northern islands. Joe’s observations go beyond the weather and sea surface conditions, as he scans the water surface far below for anomalies like algae blooms, water plumes and jellyfish. He understands what the gradations in water color mean and makes notes to report to his Ecology colleagues. If he sees oil spills, he is able to report them long before they are visible from other vantage points. Joe Leatherman has become a Citizen Scientist. HARBORS |

Northwest Artist Spotlight By Betsy Crowfoot

Gyotaku - The Art of Fish Printing

For generations Japanese anglers have recorded the size and species of their catch by making an impression of the fish on cloth or paper, a practice called Gyotaku. Well before the advent of photography, fisherman were able to boast of their prowess in catching sizeable, quality fish – in fact, Gyotaku is perhaps one of the earliest forms of a marketing brochure. These life-size impressions of ‘trophy’ fish also documented the natural beauty of the species and over time became a revered art form, worldwide. Today, this ancient craft has inspired everything from workshops in South Africa and South Korea, to a museum collection in Maine and printed board shorts in Hawaii. Gyotaku (pronounced ‘gee-ohtah-koo’) translates literally into ‘fish rubbing.’ Fishermen in 19th century Japan would make hasty black and 66

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white rubbings of their catch on rice paper, and rush these to market ahead of their bounty. Nowadays the process remains remarkably the same. Eiji (“A.G.”) Umemura of Quadra Island is both a Gyotaku artisan and expert saltwater angler, and on a recent fishing trip off Campbell River, our fishing guide. A.G. is skilled, friendly and humorous, and smoothly guides us novices to a hook a rapid succession of Coho and Chinook salmon. When I land a sizeable Chinook, it meets a gentle demise at A.G.’s hand. He pats it dry and places it gently in my arms, then positions the boat so the lighting is just right and the photo is snapped. Even in dispatching fish aboard a bouncing Grady White Cruiser, A.G.’s attention to aesthetics is unmistakable. He describes the Gyotaku process from here. After the fish is delicately cleaned and dried, water base colors are carefully daubed on, mimicking and enhancing the natural patterns and hues of the fish. These handmixed paints are non-toxic, so the fish

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remains edible even after the process. Subsequently a cloth is pressed against the fish and gently worked over the carcass to capture all of the details, then it is hung to dry. Later, the print will be embellished. “Each fish has a unique coloration,” A.G. points out. “One tiny scale may have seven or eight different colors on it. I try to draw out the natural beauty of the fish ... bring out the blue-greens in the salmon, and make them pretty.” He draws attention to the fine scales and delicate lace of the dorsal fins, and I realize I have never seen a fish so striking as this. Each print will take several days, between pressing, drying and touching up. Lastly, he will paint the eyeball. “It’s the most critical part, and the most difficult,” A.G. admits. “It makes the fish come to life.” A.G. brought his love of angling and Gyotaku to Quadra Island from his native Japan. “I don’t even remember when I first started fishing: I was maybe two years old,” he says. “Someone handed me a rod and I have been fish-

ing ever since.” His passion for Gyotaku began early as well. He did his first rubbing at the age of 10, teaching himself the art over several years. In his mid-20s, A.G. moved to Canada to enjoy the unparalleled fishing of the Campbell River area. Since then, he has expanded his practice both as a fishing guide and Gyotaku artist, and has broadened the scope of Gyotaku to include diverse compositions of texture and color. Over the past two decades, he has done more than onethousand Gyotaku prints. In addition to direct method Gyotaku (chokusetsu-ho) which A.G. performs, where color is applied to the fish and transferred to the cloth; there is also an indirect process of the art (kansetsu-ho). In this second method the fabric is placed over the fish and the color painted on with a silk and cotton ball. Both are authentic. A.G. adds that custom Gyotaku prints can be commissioned, using stock impressions of various species and sizes of fish, colored to match a photograph taken of your catch. Whether direct printed from your catch or commissioned, it’s a prized memento of a fishing adventure – and a great alternative to mounting a fish. “Some people don’t like hanging dead fish on the wall!” A.G. laughs. And after the Gyotaku print is done, you can still serve your catch for dinner.

BE transported

Want to try your hand at Gyotaku? For a schedule of “The Art of Fish Print” workshops. Contact the Nature Printing Society: www.natureprintingsociety.org AG-Fish Enterprises Eiji (AG) Umemura P.O.Box 458 Quathiaski Cove, Quadra Island, BC, V0P 1N0 (250) 285-2770 www.agrishprints.com

Don’t just savor the scenery, devour it — as you ski, cycle, paddle, dance, dine, explore, and recharge yourself in the healthiest, happiest, most vibrant corner of Washington State. Find us between the mountains and the sea. One destination, many adventures. 800.487.2032 | bellingham.org

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Travel Savvy:

By Betsy Crowfoot

Good...Good...Good ...Good Hydration

Lethargy. Headache. Dry skin. Heart palpitations. Muscle cramps. Confusion or irritability. These are symptoms of what dreaded malady? Malaria? Yellow Fever? Plague? Dehydration. Staying hydrated while traveling is one of the most important things you can do for yourself. Proper hydration – drinking sufficient water for your size, environment and activity level – not only makes you feel good; it’s critical to the functions of your vital organs. Ridding your body of waste, maintaining proper body temperature, aiding digestion, lubricating joints and boosting your immune system are some of the important benefits to your overall health. You can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make it drink. Key to good hydration is having 68

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a personal water supply on hand, whether on land, sea or air. Two litres of fluid per day is a rough minimum for the average adult: consider that caffeine and alcohol work as diuretics, so add more liquids accordingly. Before moderate to high-intensity activity, the American Council on Fitness suggests you top off your tank, so to speak, with 20 oz. of water beforehand, and consume seven to 10 oz. more every one-quarter hour or so, throughout energetic pursuits. But the environmental impact of disposable water bottles is grave – and the economic waste also severe. Reusable water bottles make sense for both the planet and your wallet. When choosing a refillable water bottle, it’s important to select one suited to your sport or endeavor, keeping in mind what the best material, design, size and method of closure might be. Bottles with sport tops flip open eas-

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ily for a quick sip during a marathon, but could accidentally pop open and leak if stuffed in a briefcase. Likewise, a screw-on cap will close securely for safe stowage with cameras or electronic equipment, but are inconvenient if both hands aren’t free. Think through what kind of activity you’ll be doing, then choose the right method of closure to match your movements. Will you be carrying the bottle by hand? Squeeze a sip on the fly? If so a design with a secure grip, the proper size for you to comfortable grasp, is critical. Or will you hang the bottle from a pack or railing with a carabineer? Will it be banging around? Or tucked safely away? Based on these criteria, do you want plastic, metal or glass? Flat, round or squared? Or even a water reservoir in a back- or fanny pack, with a convenient-to-reach straw, for hands-free drinking? Plastic Fantastic. Look to plastic

Hydration Resources

www.camelbak.com www.pureglassbottle.com www.thewatergeeks.com

Complete puzzle on page 82

bottles for versatility and variety in look, size and design. Most you’ll find today will be free of the carcinogen BPA: check the labeling to be sure. Pros: inexpensive, available in a variety of sizes and styles. Cons: may retain odor, not suitable for hot drinks, probably not microwavable nor dishwasher safe. Pedal to the Metal. Metal bottles – aluminum or stainless steel – are a good option if you’re concerned about the possibility of leeching toxins, and if you’re pursuing rugged activities. Stainless bottles are preferable to aluminum ones, which can react with acidic drinks so are generally lined with other materials. Pros: durable yet lightweight; odor-free. Cons: contents will warm up if exposed to sunlight. Flashback. Glass bottles are making a comeback thanks to new shatterproof designs, and health concerns about plastics. Look to models with foam or plastic sleeves or shrink-wrapping that will deter breakage. Pros: easy to clean, won’t leech chemicals nor absorb odors. Cons: fragile, may break during rugged sports. More advanced products include the AQUAMIRACLE bottles and packs, which have a filtering top that allows you to safely drink from a stream or other freshwater sources, without concern about parasites or bacteria. And a Swedish engineer has developed a method to transform perspiration into potable water. But why ‘sweat it?’ Bring an ample supply of water with you wherever you go with a reusable bottle. And keep in mind: good hydration is an individual issue. Excessive thirst, a decrease in urine, and dark, amber-colored urine are all signs you might need to drink more water. Bottoms up!

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

Seaplane Flyaways Sidney Pier Hotel, Sidney, BC

The town of Sidney on Vancouver Island’s Saanich Peninsula is a charming spot for a family adventure, weekend retreat or romantic getaway. Located 30 minutes north of British Columbia’s capital city of Victoria, it’s a popular retirement community, but with an upbeat flair and flavor appealing to all ages. Known as Sidney-bythe-Sea, it features two miles of waterfront, along with stunning views of the Gulf Islands and Mt. Baker rising high above the Salish Sea. Anchoring one end of town is The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa. The bou70

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tique hotel opened in 2007 and is sleek and contemporary in design, but old-fashioned in comfort and service. From the front-desk clerks to the concierge, the staff is friendly and accommodating. The 55 spacious guestrooms and suites have either town or water views and many feature balconies. Amenities include complimentary WiFi and local phone calls, coffee and tea maker, mini-fridge and plush robes. The hotel is dog-friendly and if you didn’t bring yours, they’ll provide you with a canine companion to meander along the new Sidney Sea-

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By Sue Frause

side Sculpture Walk. The Walk starts at Beacon Park, located in the front yard of the hotel and continues along the waterfront promenade. There are a couple of dining choices on site. Haro’s Restaurant & Bar overlooks Haro Strait and has a seasonal, heated outdoor terrace for alfresco dining. The West Coast menu features locally sourced food from the peninsula, Cowichan Valley and the Gulf Islands. Just off the lobby is the Georgia Cafe & Deli, which is also a local hangout for coffee and lunch. Room service is available if you prefer soak-

ing up the view in your guestroom or suite upstairs. Also located off the lobby is Haven Spa, featuring Aveda products and offering massages, facials, body treatments and aesthetics. There’s an ocean- view mani/pedi room and hair salon, and the his/her guest lounges include showers, lockers and steam rooms -- plus there’s a 24-hour fitness center. Also located in the hotel is the Shaw Ocean Discovery Centre, the “Aquarium of the Salish Sea,” featuring tanks and exhibits for a hands-on, handswet adventure. For shopping, there are more than 100 independently owned shops in Sidney, from Baden Baden Boutique to Muffet & Louisa. Sidney has the distinction of being Canada’s only Booktown, with seven independently owned bookstores downtown. Each one is unique, from The Children’s Bookshop to The Haunted Bookshop, Vancouver Island’s oldest antiquarian bookshop. In addition to Haro’s Restaurant & Bar at the hotel, other dining options include the 3rd Street Cafe for a traditional breakfast; Fish on 5th, featuring tasty fish ‘n chips; Chef Lucien Frauenfelder’s Bistro Suisse for authentic Swiss cuisine such as fondue, rosti and schnitzel; and the 109-yearold Sidney Bakery for traditional “breads and buns.” The hip little Toast Café is also close by for a quick bite. Beacon Landing, just across the street from the Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa, is a good spot for a pint or glass of your favorite libation. Then take a stroll and soak up Sidney-by-the-Sea, one of Vancouver Island’s finest walking towns.

The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa 9805 Seaport Place Sidney, BC V8L 4X3 866-659-9445 www.sidneypier.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Rosewood Hotel Georgia, Vancouver, BC

By Pat Awmack

The Rosewood Hotel Georgia is a grande dame of Vancouver hotels. Built in 1927, she has seen her share of celebrity guests. It has been the hotel of choice for British royalty, Elvis, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Nat “King” Cole and Louis Armstrong. When I asked about more recent celebrity visitors, however, I was told with a smile that their names could not be shared. Clearly, the hotel prides itself on its discretion. The hotel reopened in July 2011, after being closed for four years while it underwent a $120 million refurbishment. The number of rooms was cut from 350 to 156, doubling the size of most guest rooms. While modern amenities such as air-conditioning, heated bathroom floors and rain showerheads were added, the hotel has retained its original elegance and charm. The warm, wood-paneled lobby, with its original crown moldings, marble floor and vintage elevator display are where you really see the vast history of the building. Rosewood Hotels prides itself on creating a sense of place. It isn’t a cookie-cutter chain and this is portrayed in the artwork on display as well as the food and beverages on offer. You’ll find one of the largest privately-owned collections of Canadian art throughout the hotel. Pieces that I fell in love with included the First Nations piece in the lobby lounge and a truly stunning 3-D portrayal of the city of Venice, Italy in the main lobby. The main dining restaurant is Hawksworth, run by award-winning chef David Hawksworth. Its most recent accolade was being awarded Best Restaurant in Canada by Maclean’s magazine. Having wanted to dine there since its opening, I took this opportunity to make a reservation. If you do stay at the hotel you’ll want to book your dinner reservation as early as you can, as it’s extremely popular. I 72

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can recommend the Pan-Seared Scallops or Hamachi Sashimi as an appetizer along with the Yarrow Meadows Duck Breast or Yellowfin Tuna for a main. It was worth the two-year wait! When a friend heard that I was spending the night at the Hotel Georgia, she told me that I had to check out the cool patio lounge on the fourth floor. Walking into Reflections - a seasonal lounge with reflecting pools, waterfall and private cabanas - I felt that I could be on a rooftop patio in Miami, Manhattan or Los Angeles. The other lounge in the hotel is 1927, a cozy, intimate, velvet-accented space, where the cast of “Mad Men” would feel right at home. At Bel Cafe,

also run by Hawksworth, you’ll find a selection of coffee and ready-to-go items such as freshly baked pastries, sandwiches and soups. Located in the center of the busy downtown core, you’ll find yourself within easy reach of many activities and attractions. If arriving in Vancouver via seaplane, it’s a 5 - 10 minute walk from the seaplane terminal. Walk five minutes in the opposite direction and you’ll reach Robson Street, Vancouver’s premier shopping district. For longer excursions (within about three miles) to places such as Gastown or Stanley Park, you can book the complimentary Bentley car service. I didn’t have time to enjoy this luxury

but had a lovely exchange with Jim, the chauffeur. When I asked to take a photo of the car, he was charming and spent five minutes of his day taking my photo with the car and letting me sit in the driver’s seat - probably the only time in my life that I’ll ever sit in a Bentley.

Rosewood Hotel Georgia 801 West Georgia St. Vancouver, BC V6C 1P7 604.682.5566 888.ROSEWOOD www.rosewoodhotels.com

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The Island Inn Friday Harbor, WA

We never turned on the television on—but then why would we? The floor-to-ceiling windows in the Island Inn’s suite number two (or Sweet 2, as they call it) offer a wide-angle view of island life that beats anything we’ll find on the tube. Perched on the hillside, just a stone’s throw from the water, the Inn faces northeast, looking out over the Port of Friday Harbor, the ferry terminal and the little roundabout that serves as the 74

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main artery for the largest town (pop. 2162) in the San Juan Islands. We sit and watch as the hustle and bustle of the little village swells and recedes, much like the tide, with the arrival and departure of each green-andwhite Washington State ferry boat, as passengers disembark on foot, bicycle and by car. A whale-watching vessel motors away from the dock in search of the 89 resident orcas that frequent the

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By Joshua Colvin

island, then a local schooner, the 80foot Spike Africa, sets sail across our window and eventually out of view beyond Brown Island. As if on cue, a yellow-and-white Kenmore Air floatplane appears through the mist and begins its slow, steep approach into Friday Harbor. After landing, it taxis into port and the captain hitches the plane to the dock before his passengers step out to begin the next phase of their adventure.

Even without the spectacular views our room is an aesthetic treat, with its high ceilings, luxurious bed and posh bathroom with its deep angular bathtub and organic woven towels. Our room comes stocked with complimentary local-blend coffee and gourmet tea of course, but also organic granola, fresh fruit, with orange juice and milk in the refrigerator. Built on a site that originally served as a fuel- and oil-storage facility for the local fishing fleet, the Inn’s concrete walls and big metal storage tank look like holdovers, but they’re really just a nod to the property’s industrial roots. The tank is actually part of the Silver LEED property’s rainwater irrigation system—just one of many green design choices. The Island Inn is about relaxation, but also repurposing and reinvention. In addition to penthouses and suites, the Inn features so-called Euro accommodations—smaller, streamlined rooms with minimalist European-style washrooms, and access to a communal “view lobby,” that acts as an extension to the rooms and a place to enjoy a glass of wine and watch the waterfront. The Island Inn feels more like an urban apartment than a tourist hotel, which in turn makes it feel like we’ve been living here, not just visiting. Only forty-eight hours into the trip we’ve got our favorite bistro (The Coho), our favorite pub (Cask and Schooner) and our favorite movie theatre (the Palace), but of course the best show of all is still back at our room—the one right outside our window.

The Island Inn at 123 West 123 Front Street Friday Harbor, WA 98250 877-512-9262 www.123west.com (See Ad on inside back cover.)

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FRIDAY HARBOR Film Festival

October 11-12-13, 2013 Stories of the Pacific Rim Entertain â&#x20AC;˘ Inspire â&#x20AC;˘ Enlighten Join us for the first annual Friday Harbor Film Festival featuring award winning documentary films about the diverse cultures and environments of the Pacific Rim. Films will feature fascinating island cultures, revealing marine ecology, heroic adventures, sustainable agriculture, social justice, current environmental issues and stirring human interest stories. Discover the Historic Seaport of Friday Harbor, located on San Juan Island, Washington and experience why TripAdvisor has selected it as the USA's #1 island destination and #4 best island to visit in the WORLD.

Visit www.fhff.org for more information. 76

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HARBORS

BI-MONTHLY PHOTO CONTEST

Send us your best photos in the following categories and enter our Facebook Photo Contest. Each issue one winner will receive a $50.00 cash prize and have their winning photo featured in HARBORS Magazine. At the end of the year all winning entries will be entered to win a trip for two to the San Juan Islands.

• Wildlife or Nature Photo • Fishing Adventure Photo • • Seaplane Photo • Boating Photo • First go to our Facebook page and like us…then email your photo in high resolution 300 dpi at 8 x 11 to photo-contest@harborsmagazine.com All entries will be posted on our HARBORS Facebook page and readers can vote on their favorite photos!

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Seaplane/Floatplane

Passenger Guide Things you need to know...

Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage iin the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.

Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.

Knowing how to find and use exits Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up. Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.

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Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.

Passenger Briefing Checklist

Getting out safely! Underwater egress

• Baggage limits

In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.

• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)

1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. DO NOT INFLATE IT until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot swim underwater with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit. 6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise. 7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

Pacific Northwest Spectacular destinations for adventurous travelers and outdoor enthusiasts await you! Let HARBORS Magazine lead you on a word seek journey to see how many words about the Pacific Northwest including people, places, and adventures you can find in the grid and on your travels! □ �

ADVENTURE

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COLUMBIA RIVER

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INLETS

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BALD EAGLES

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CYCLISTS

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ISLANDS

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BEARS

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EUGENE

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LAKES

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BOATING

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FISHING

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CANADA

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FORESTS

MOUNTAINS

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CITIES

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HARBORS

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NATURE

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COAST

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HIKERS

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OLYMPIA

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OREGON

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PACIFIC OCEAN

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PARKS

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PORTLAND

E R F E A M L V G N L R A R S

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PORTS

K B E T T D O N U U E O N O L

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PUGET SOUND

A A T K L S I U M O C V A B A

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SALMON

L L S I

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SEATTLE

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VANCOUVER

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VICTORIA

T G N I T A O B G U E L N K I

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WASHINGTON

A L V N L

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WILDLIFE

L A B N A E C O C I F I C A P I D N A L T R O P E U G E N E F N B E A R S U F P D U C D T S F L V R E E I T D T O C S I

I H V B N S C R D R N

E D W A S H I N G T O N A A D R E R I

L A C E O E A W A H S

U A F W R M T T D G L

I S V E

I R N M P O R T S T

N E C Y C L

I S T S E R O F I

Solution Solutionon onpage page69. xx.

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Fast. Convenient. Stress-free Daily seaplane & wheeled aircraft Express flights from Seattle to more than 45 spectacular Northwest destinations

866-435-9524 • KenmoreAir.com 84

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