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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack George Bivoino Natasha Dworkin Sean Griffin Vincent Hagel
Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Jacques White Russ Young
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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings,
Wow…another year has come and gone, and the world is forever changing. With the way the world is today we are more grateful than ever to live in the Pacific Northwest. For those of us who live, work and play in this region, it is our responsibility to take care of our waters, land and air. Unless we all pay attention now, we may not always have this pristine environment to recreate and live the lifestyle we cherish. There has been much awareness over the years among environmentalists, geologists, oceanographers, boaters and fishermen that the planet is changing. Our mountains, glaciers, rivers, oceans and air are all affected. We see it in our salmon runs and rivers. Although most of the change is invisible to the naked eye, it is indeed changing—and affecting our wilderness and wildlife. There has always been contrast, if not complete disagreement, between environmentalists and industry, but now more than ever we need to find better, mutual solutions than to destroy what keeps us alive. We encourage everyone here in the Pacific Northwest to identify an organization to support to keep our land, sea and air clean and free of pollution, and to protect from extinction the creatures that inhabit them—and that includes us humans. Please join us in making 2016 the year to support such causes and leave a pristine environment for our youth and their children, and their children, to nurture and enjoy. Happy New Year! In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, stay safe and enjoy the journey.
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
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2016 January/February
Features
14
Flying to Beyond
22
Band of Birders
30
“Made in Washington” Boats
38
HARBORS Happenings
40
Travel Maps
46
On the Waterfront
56
Glenwood Springs Chinook
68
Gear Guide
72
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
Home-Grown Alaska Seaplanes Richmond, BC
The Cutwater 26
Ranger Tugs/Cutwater Rendezvous Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways Yarrow Point, WA Orcas Island, WA
(photo by AJ Hunt)
Cover Photo: Roche Harbor during the Ranger Tug and Cutwater Rendezvous 2015.
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Flying to Beyond Home-Grown Alaska Seaplanes by Terry W. Sheely
N
ishan Panwar nailed it. Left wing up, right wing down, pilot Paul Lerma slides us over the mountain pass, banks to the right and—whoosh!—I’m eye-to-eye with a glistening ice-streaked spire that’s gushing a white waterfall into a scarlet-bush basin. A game trail is etched into the alpine and I’m willing to bet it hasn’t seen a footprint without hooves or claws in eons. “Travel not for the destination,” wrote Panwar from his home in India, “but for the joy of the journey.” That’s never truer than in Southeast Alaska, where getting there is at least half the adventure— often the most spectacular half. Especially, when that half is looking through the whirl of a single prop on pontoons or small wheels, feet above humpback whales, saltwater fjords, scarred glaciers and mountain scenery that staggers the senses. Lerma, vice president of flight operations for Alaska Seaplanes, levels the de Havilland Beaver, tilts the nose slightly down and we juke along the ragged mountainous spine of Admiralty Island, surrounded by scenery so dramatic I quit trying to describe it. When we splash down at the dock in the Tlingit tribal village of Angoon, midway down the island, Jim Kerns and I will off-load into a week of great fresh and saltwater fishing, but it’s the flight that we remember.
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Small planes are the threads that hold roadless Alaska together, linking remote villages, carrying life-anddeath supplies, and delivering critical cargo and recreationalists to spectacular yet otherwise unreachable destinations. In the puzzle of islands, fjords, mountains, fish camps, lodges and remote communities that make up Southeast, that thread is connected to Alaska Seaplanes. Headquartered in Juneau since 1997, Alaska Seaplanes is a workhorse fleet of Pipers, Cessnas and Beavers; on wheels and pontoons, they reach into a dozen curious and recreationally rich communities, many of which you’ve probably never heard of: Kake, Angoon, Tenakee Springs, Hoonah, Pelican, Elfin Cove, Excursion Inlet, Pack Creek and Gustavus/Glacier Bay National Park. As well as some that you have: Sitka, Juneau, Haines, and Skagway. “Charters are a big part of what we do,” says General Manager Carl Ramseth. Getting into remote destinations is vital for kayakers, fishers, hunters, hikers, campers, climbers and others looking off the beaten trail for an Alaskan adventure. His company will drop you into isolated high mountain lakes, and their de Havilland Beavers are instrumental in getting vacationers into the economical US Forest Service rental cabins scattered across Tongass National Forest. “We can customize a ‘flightseeing’ tour to fit any budget or timeline,” he adds. The “flightseeing” spectaculars are a designed by-product of Alaska Seaplane’s here-to-there destination flights. “Safety is first,” Ramseth says, “but our pilots also try to make the flight as special as possible.” It’s been my experience that “special” is an understatement. Soaring between spires and peaks, looking down on isolated coves and bays, discovering mountain lakes that never see a hiker, wrinkled glaciers bleeding into saltwater, miles of ice fields, watching bears walk beaches
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Arriving by Alaska Seaplanes at Pelican. and whales blowing, looking down on the backs of soaring eagles, and seeing waterscapes artistic with streamers of ribboning clouds that wrap around miles of wilderness conifers so green they look black. “I never get tired of it,” says a pilot into the headset on my flight to the tiny outpost of Pelican. “Alaska is always changing. Every flight is different.” The man loves his job. Pelican is an old “fish” town built on pilings pinned into the mountainside on the east shore of Lisianski Inlet, a narrow fjord carved by glaciers between Yakobi and Chichagof Islands. Nearby, Deer Harbor and Cross Sound on the ocean side are the first places 18
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that migrating salmon hit Southeast. The town has 89 full-time residents connected by a boardwalk built on historic pilings and shared remoteness. Our inbound low-level flight skirted the magnificent 15,000-foot icy peaks in Glacier Bay National Park, flew over the diminutive harbor community of Elfin Cove and covered the wild length of Icy Strait. The fishing was good; the flight was great. My Pelican stop was typical of a day in the life of an Alaska seaplane pilot. During a week they will bring passengers to typically once-in-a-lifetime adventures and sights: the world’s largest totem pole in Kake (128 feet); world’s longest zipline in Hoonah
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(5,330 feet long, with a 1,300 foot vertical drop—60 mph!); brown bears on the beach at Pack River; a soothing 104-degree hot spring at Tenakee Inlet. The roots of Alaska Seaplanes grow out of Southeast aviation history. Owner Mike Stedman was born and raised in Sitka, and was director of operations for Wings of Alaska. The company that eventually became Alaska Seaplanes goes back to the 1950s and made Ken Loken the largest seaplane operator in the world. Loken changed the airline’s corporate story in 2011 when he sold Alaska Seaplanes to Stedman and Kent Craford. The partners expanded into the
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wheel-plane market, acquired longtime Gustavus-based air taxi company Air Excursions and in the spring of 2013 merged the two companies into Alaska Seaplanes. They’ve since partnered with several tour companies to offer “flightseeing” and scheduled flights into remote attractions, like the Pack Creek Bear Sanctuary on Admiralty Island and the massive Juneau Ice Field above Mendenhall Glacier. As a frequent Alaska Seaplane’s flyer and diehard Southeast fisherman, I find one of the company’s best features is a freezer. The appliance is behind their Juneau International ticket counter, and is where fishers and hunters can store fish and meat while taking off for another destination or enjoying the trappings of Juneau (e.g., the Alaskan Brewery tour or getting a little sawdust on their Extratufs at the Red Dog Saloon). Last summer, in a few no-hassle minutes after returning from Pelican with a load of succulent fish fillets, I arranged freezer storage that allowed me to spend two days in Juneau, including a local halibut and salmon trip with Moore Charters, then another flyout for three days in Icy Strait at Gustavus. Fishing with Jim Kerns of Fairweather Adventures, I brought in more salmon and halibut. Back in Juneau I added the fresh fillets to the fish box in the Alaska Seaplanes freezer, banded it, transferred it to Alaska Airlines and headed home to Seattle. For outdoorsmen, the dexterous aircraft in the Alaska Seaplanes fleet are a memorable ride through spectacular calendar-quality scenery deep into the beyond.
Alaska Seaplanes 8907 Yandukin Dr. Juneau, AK 99801 907.789.3331 www.flyalaskaseaplanes.com
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FIND YOUR ESCAPE
Learn more at cubcrafters.com Yakima, WA | 509.248.9491
Carl Ramseth General Manager, Alaska Seaplanes; Juneau, AK Carl’s aviation career began with a summer job in 1989 as a customer-service agent at Wings of Alaska (WOA). He arrived in Juneau earlier that year, following his future wife Heather to the Last Frontier. Carl grew up outside Minneapolis and graduated in 1987 from St. Olaf College with a degree in physical education. He came to Juneau hoping to teach, but other than a couple weeks of substitute teaching, his newly acquired passion for aviation has him close to the airport for nearly 27 years. Carl worked his way up through the ranks at WOA, although in 2008 he decided it was time to get away from aviation. (In retrospect, he says it was a “mid-life crisis.”) He resigned, but after a short time away, Carl rejoined WOA for about a year. He then moved to Alaska Seaplanes in 2010. Still seeking a change, Carl and Heather moved to Wisconsin, but after a year, it became evident it wasn’t time for a permanent move. They returned to Juneau, where Carl rejoined Alaska Seaplanes. Beyond his coworkers, Carl’s passion for his job is centered on his customers. His relationships with some Alaska Seaplanes customers span 25-plus years; Carl’s seen children born, graduate from high school, go to college, get married and start families. These relationships, and being part of the communities the airline serves, are the reason he does what he does. Aviation is an important part of life in Southeast Alaska. Alaska Seaplanes delivers U.S. Mail, UPS and freight; they safely transport passengers for business, medical and recreational travel. Carl and Heather have five children, ranging in age from 10 to 25; the couple say they feel “blessed” with the opportunity to homeschool their kids. The entire family loves to be outdoors – whether on the water, hiking, fishing, camping, hunting or exploring.
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Band of Birders by Vincent Hagel
M
y wife Tracy and I spent this past Thanksgiving at the Fairmont Hotel at Vancouver International Airport, which we thought would be a different way to celebrate the holiday— and different it was. When I inquired about the Fairmont’s Birding Pack-
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ages, General Manager Ken Flores invited us to join him banding birds early Saturday morning on nearby Iona Island. Little did I realize during a short, frosty drive that I would meet a band of birders whose passion and professionalism gave me an inside look at “citizen science” in action.
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Iona Island, technically a spit, is just a stone’s throw from the airport. Ken suggested arriving about an hour after sunup. The WildResearch group would be there before dawn, checking nets in preparation for the day’s banding. My car’s thermometer read 28º Fahrenheit—minus 2º Celsius.
Opposite: Banding station Above: Bewick’s Wren with tail fan Left: Fox Sparrow ready for release
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After parking, I walked along the frozen edge of a pond to the banding station, a six-by-ten-foot solarpowered building, where Ken introduced me to the other members of the group. Christine Rock is the current president of WildResearch Board of Directors. Christine earned her Master of Science from Simon Fraser University, where she studied brood parasitism in Yellow Warblers. She was one of the six founders of WildResearch in 2010. Biologists and graduate students, they wanted to create innovative ways to contribute to conservation, expand educational opportunities and field experience in biology, and conduct conservation outreach. I learned this as Christine led me along a frosty path, checking nets as we talked. In other seasons, the bird banders might capture more than 200 birds per day, but during winter they will find only a few dozen in the 14 nets within two acres. Each net is about the length of a volleyball net and about 10 feet high. The netting is black and fine, like that used to protect cherries from flying foragers. Each net is divided into three tiers, each tier containing a “pocket” at the bottom so that when a bird flies into the net, it falls into the pocket. At the fourth net we found a Ruby Crowned Kinglet in the pocket, which Christine carefully extracted. This little beauty looked like an immature Golden Crowned Kinglet, but Christine blew gently on the bird’s head, exposing a brilliant red of the Ruby Crown. Once done, she placed the kinglet into a small, white bag, “Handmade by WildResearch,” she added. Angela Bond, director of member services for WildResearch, walked with us and extracted a Fox Sparrow from another net. This bird was a little more tangled and took several minutes to remove safely before being placed in the white bag. Both Angela and Christine are well practiced in 24
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the gentle touch required to protect the birds from injury. The sparrow had been previously banded, which is essential to developing the database necessary to monitor the lives and habitats of these creatures. Having returned to the banding station, Angela and Christine turned their catch over to Andrew Huang, a biologist hired to band the birds and examine them for all of the particulars necessary to track them. “One of the factors determining a bird’s health, is its fat content,” Andrew told me. He then blew on the sparrow’s belly, exposing its skin and small sacs of fat. Beside him, Renae Mackas, also a director of WildResearch, asked, “How is it?” “A four,” Andrew reported, and Renae agreed that this was a healthy bird. She entered the information into a database on a laptop. This information will eventually find its way into a national database. Renae entered additional information into
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the computer as Andrew analyzed the bird. He would do this with all of the birds caught during this wintry day. Andrew then noted that we should be off again to check the nets, which we did. During the winter, Christine, Angela and Ken check the nets about every half hour, but in the prolific months, the checking runs non-stop throughout the day, requiring more volunteers and more biologists to examine them. WildResearch has about 300 volunteers, most of them in and around Vancouver and elsewhere in British Columbia. These are some of the “citizen scientists” who contribute to the vast sea of knowledge necessary to biology. However, there are volunteers from across Canada as well as some in the United States. Back on the trail, Christine received a call via walkie-talkie, calling for assistance with a Tongued Downy. “What’s that?” you might ask. The Downy Woodpecker has two small forks on its tongue, and occasionally one of these forks engages the net and requires more care to free it. By the time we reached Ken, he had freed the downy and held it up for view. Bird banders employ two ways to hold a bird, the first called the “banding grip,” in which you hold the bird in your palm with two fingers gently around the back of its neck. The birds remain docile in the position. The second is called the “photographer’s grip,” by which you hold the bird from below, by its legs, allowing a clear view for the camera. Neither grip will harm the bird. I spent a couple hours with this band of birders and enjoyed myself completely. I learned much more than I can report here. This experience is available through The Fairmont at Vancouver Airport, or you can volunteer with the group. You can learn much about WildResearch at www.wildresearch.ca. You can follow them on Facebook. 28
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“Made in Washington” Boats: The Cutwater 26
I
t’s easy to name many iconic companies that are native to the Seattle area: Boeing, Starbucks, Costco, Microsoft, Amazon and Filson, to name a few. But did you know that Cutwater boats are built here in the Evergreen State? Cutwater boats are affordable, versatile and trailer-able cruisers made by Fluid Motion LLC, also builder of the legendary and successful Ranger Tugs. Fluid Motion is owned by the Livingston family, which has been building boats since 1958. With so many years of boat building, they have created a wealth of experience, and an established record of significant achievement in the continual
by George Bivoino pursuit of innovative design and construction of recreational boats. The Cutwater boats are designed in a classic “down-east” style, and come in four sizes: 24’, 26’, 28’ and 30’ with variations to each model. For this article, we are focusing on the Cutwater 26: a well-sized pocketcruiser for those people who are looking for an affordable cruiser to take on day trips or overnight adventures. The company has targeted couples in their 40s to 60s who want the cruising dream without having to break their bank accounts. The C26 is powered by an economical single Volvo diesel engine to save weight, and fuel, and to provide the low-end torque
necessary to get these boats quickly on plane. Cutwater Boats has three boatbuilding facilities in Washington: in the towns of Arlington, Auburn and Monroe. We recently visited Cutwater in Monroe (about 35 miles northeast of Seattle), and were given a private look at what it takes to make one of the most luxurious, affordable and reliable cruising boats on the water today. Mark Mansfield, Cutwater’s national sales manager, greeted us at the front door when we arrived. He’s known for his ability to build both an excellent team and a loyal customer base. And it’s no wonder, when you
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see how enthusiastic Mark is about the Cutwater boats and how they are made. One might think a modern boatbuilding factory would be full of large machinery and assembly lines with robots—but this is not the case with Cutwater. You might say that each of their boats is made by hand; the hands of a very skilled team of boat builders. Layers and layers of preparation go into just building one of the strongest and high performance hull designs around today. Safety is always the key fundamental when building boats and Cutwater is certainly a “safety-first” manufacturer. There are twenty six separate primary molds and compartments for the Cutwater 26. During the five weeks from start to finish, each layer 32
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and compartment molds together, like a glove to a hand. The fabrication is carefully examined for accuracy and fit, making each Cutwater boat a “work of art” in the boat-building industry. One of the many things that stands out about Cutwater is how well they listen to their customers. Each year Cutwater seeks out new, innovative design details by interviewing their customers to find out what works and what doesn’t. They also take time to personally look at various modifications that Cutwater owners have done to their own boats for possible inclusion in future boat designs. “Comments from our customers educate us on what they need to navigate in comfort and ease,” said Mark. The Cutwater 26’s deck design is The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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practical, and offers a good balance of seating and storage, including a roof-rack hardtop that allows you to bring along kayaks and paddleboards. There are a number of features that cater to boaters who love to fish. Pole holders and the fish box are in the appropriate locations, making it easy to catch and store any king or silver you hook and bring on board. As Mark describes, “She has an open and airy interior with numerous refined comforts and versatile seating.� The large cabin windows, forward hatches and overhead hatches in the main cabin all open to provide ventilation on warmer days, while also sealing the cabin for protection from the elements during cooler Pacific Northwest weather patterns. The large cabin windows also provide 34
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T H E C U T WAT E R H U L L D E S I G N Foremost among these features is the Keel Stepped Hull bottom with tapered
A
radical departure from conventional deep-V hull
geometry, the revolutionary new Cutwater Hull design incorporates
1
intake tunnels to distribute an uninterrupted
2
A keel pad runs the full length of the bottom to concentrate lift and adds directional stability. The entire tunnel-step-keel pad configuration employs a consistent distribution of air along the bottom to reduce
flow of air evenly across specifically
drag for a measurable improvement in hull speed and fuel efficiency.
designated segments of the running surface, while vectoring air away from the propeller.
a number of features that together deliver a smooth ride, straight tracking, agile, responsive performance, and maximum fuel economy. With all these advantages, each Cutwater model offers the range to expand everyone’s cruise horizons while providing exceptional comfort underway.
5
Well forward, the raked stem curves downward near the waterline to a slender, near-vertical forefoot that cuts oncoming waves to ensure a smooth ride.
4 A substantial skeg keel extends along the aftmost third of the hull, to improve straight-
3
line tracking for efficient course-keeping, and to resist rolling for greater ride comfort. Additionally, this keel protects the propeller and running gear against damage from submerged hazards.
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This nuance also extends the waterline to Along either side of the keel where it meets
improve fuel efficiency, and allows fuller
the bottom is a rounded shoulder where the
sections throughout the forward hull
machinery compartment has been expanded
sections for greater usable interior space.
to allow positioning the engine low in the
Together, these refinements enable
hull. This in turn lowers the boat’s center of
the Cutwater hull to deliver an ultra-
gravity for greater stability, and allows lowering
smooth ride and superior performance,
the main deck structure to provide greater
plus an extra measure of comfort and
interior headroom while preserving the boat’s
convenience, adding up to unexcelled
attractive exterior profile.
cruising enjoyment.
outstanding visibility, especially during rain and high-wind voyages. The forward cabin serves as the master stateroom but also converts to a social seating area with a table for four people. A second cabin is tucked below the dinette and offers a seven-foot-long double bunk. For additional sleeping accommodations, the dinette converts to a third bunk. Arranging seating in various configurations makes it easy to accommodate up to six people in close quarters, but the Cutwater 26 sleeps four very comfortably and is the ideal size for any couple wanting to cruise the islands of the Salish Sea. The cabins are spacious; the extended headroom in the cabin makes this design a favorite for boaters over six feet tall. The materials used to make the interior are “top of the line” and attractive, using neutral-blended color schemes with colorful accents resembling state-of-the-art interior design. The Cutwater 26 is an affordable, versatile cruiser for exploring the waters of the Pacific Northwest. The Cutwater’s comfort, style and innovative features will make the voyage as enjoyable as the destination.
More info: Be sure to stop and go on board the many Cutwaters and Ranger Tugs at their display at the 2016 Seattle Boat Show, Jan. 29 - Feb. 6, 2016. If you interested in more info on Cutwater boats go to the HARBORS website and watch our Cutwater videos. Cutwater Boats 17341 Tye St S.E. Monroe, WA 98272 800.349.7198 www.cutwaterboats.com
Mark Mansfield National Sales Manager Cutwater Boats Monroe, WA
Mark is a results-oriented individual with more than 28 years of experience in all phases of marine-product sales and marketing. He was raised in a small town in Indiana, where his father spent 47 years in the boat business—before fiberglass was “born.” Mark attended Purdue University, graduating and moving west to Denver in 1980. He worked in the technology sector selling financial systems until 1988, when he moved to Everett, WA to help support a new brand of boats: Maxum Marine, developed by US Marine in Arlington, WA. Mark acted as national sales manager from 1992 to 2001, growing sales from $0 to $168 million. In 2001, he left to work for Tiara Yachts as a sales manager for the Southeast and West Coast until 2008. While attending the Miami Boat Show, Mark met Dave Livingston, who discussed another new brand: Cutwater Boats. Mark was very impressed with the Cutwater design and in 2009 joined the boat building company, Fluid Motion, LLC, which also builds the well-known Ranger Tug design. He became Cutwater’s national sales manager when the company started production in the fall of 2010 in Monroe, WA. Today Mark lives near Everett surrounded by his lovely wife Lynne and three children: Aleigh (“ex-mayor of Roche Harbor”), Luke and Joel. They love cruising with friends, and always look forward to the Cutwater cruising events and rendezvous. Keep your eyes out for Mark when you are out cruising the Salish Sea, or stop by and meet him at the Seattle Boat Show. He’s a great guy, with a contagious passion for boating in the Pacific Northwest.
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings Ranger Tugs and Cutwater Rendezvous in Roche Harbor
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HARBORS attended the 2015 Ranger Tug/Cutwater Rendezvous at Roche Harbor in September. The owners are understandably proud and love their boats. The rendezvous was a four-day gathering of Ranger Tugs and Cutwater boats, with continuous activities, great food and drink, a dinghy contest and games. The pictures tell the tales of this group of happy boaters. To see more of the Ranger Tug and Cutwater rendezvous view our slideshow at www.harborsmagazine.com.
HARBO Rwww.harborsmagazine.com S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
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HA RBORS happenings HA R B O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
HA RBORS happenings HA The R BO R S happenings HARB O R S happenings HARBORS | Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Ketchikan to Skagway
Alaska
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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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broughton islands desolation sound discovery islands Nanaimo North vancouver island sunshine Coast west vancouver island
bC seaplane service*
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bC Ferries service
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suNsHiNe Coast
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Cape Flattery
Neah Bay
Tatoosh I.
Bamfield
False Bay
Lopez Airport
Friday Harbor
Clallam Bay
Sekiu
SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Lime Kiln Pt.
Roche Harbor Airport
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Lopez I.
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Samish Bay
Portage I.
Lake Samish
BELLINGHAM Lake Whatcom
Bellingham International Airport
Abbotsford
an Indi
White Rock
Blaine
Bellingham Bay
Sandy Pt. Lummi Bay Lummi I.
Sinclair I.
Cypress I.
Boundary Bay
Boundary Bay Airport
Richmond
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Sucia I.
Patos I.
Pt. Doughty
Waldron I. l anne nt Ch e Presid
Speiden I.
Iceberg Pt.
Cattle Pt.
Saturna I.
Lyall Harbour
Point Roberts
Tsawwassen
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VANCOUVER Coal Harbour
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CO AS T ough Chann el n br
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BEDWELL HARBOUR
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San Juan Island
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Vancouver International Airport/ Fraser River
Mayne I.
Miner’s Bay
GULF ISLANDS
Stuart I.
Moresby I.
Port Washington
Sechelt
Strait of Georgia
Galiano I.
Telegraph Harbour
Thetis I.
Silva Bay
MONTAGUE HARBOUR
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VICTORIA INTERNATIONAL N. & S. AIRPORT/PATRICIA BAY Pender Is.
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VANCOUVER ISLAND
Allan I.
Burrows I.
Sperry Peninsula
Decatur I.
Blakely I.
ISLAND
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Camp Orkila
West Sound
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Roche Harbor
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| HARBORS S hi uns
INS NTA Arm
44 U MO
Haro Strait
Nanaimo to Olympia
Puget Sound
* Seaplane service available at all destinations by charter.
Bellingham Gulf Islands Nanaimo Puget Sound Salt Spring Island San Juan Islands Seattle Vancouver Island Victoria
WA Seaplane Service*
Gulf Islands Vancouver Nanaimo Victoria Salt Spring Island
BC Seaplane Service*
Anacortes Bainbridge Island Bellingham Bremerton Clinton Coupeville Edmonds Fauntleroy Kingston Mukilteo Port Angeles Port Townsend Southworth Vashon Island
WA Ferries Service
OLYMPIA
Olympia Regional Airport
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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine American Lake
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Kenmore Air Harbor
Lake Union
SEATTLE
Edmonds
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Port Susan
Paine Field
ss sse Po
Clinton
Possession Pt.
Scatchet Pt.
Double Bluff Useless Bay Pt. No Point
Freeland
Port Gamble
Elliott Bay
Boeing Field
Blake I.
Ba
id br
ge
Poulsbo
Bangor
Keystone
Cove
Oak Harbor
Pt. Wilson
Bush Pt.
Hood Canal Br.
Port Ludlow
Di Port Hadlock
Deception Pass
Decatur I.
NAS Whidbey Island
Smith I.
Iceberg Pt.
Coupeville Penn
Port Townsend
Protection I.
Kiana Lodge
TACOMA
Tacoma Narrows Br.
n ho s Va
Bremerton
Seabeck
bo
Da
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Sequim Bay
Joint Base Lewis-McChord
Tacoma Narrows Airport M cN eil
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Guemes I.
Cypress I.
alg LaConner
Everett
Arlington
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W
Burlington
Lake Samish
Mount Vernon
Samish Bay
Lake Stevens
Lake Goodwin
Skagit Bay
Fid
Freshwater Bay Angeles Pt.
Lake Wa rcer I.
assage
BC Ferries Service
Harts tin
Indian I. Marro wston e I.
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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Resort Living Without Leaving Home Yarrow Point, WA by Russ Young
Rob Abrahamson is no stranger to waterfront living. A lifelong Washingtonian, he has lived at the water’s edge in the communities of Mercer Island, West Seattle, Lake Sammamish, Medina and Yarrow Point. He even grimaces ever-so-slightly as he recalls spending three years “off the water” in the lakeside city of Kirkland. He shares that passion for waterfront living with his wife Sue, who has joined him in the latter two homes during the years they have been married. So it’s no surprise that they say they made a “lifestyle decision” when they purchased the Yarrow Point home in 1989. And in the subsequent years, they’ve focused on further decisions that have been aimed at making their home feel like “a destination resort.” It’s not hard to say they’ve achieved that goal. Their home, five bedrooms and three bathrooms on a half-acreplus at the edge of Lake Washington, offers no shortage of space for rest, relaxation and/or recreation, whether indoors or out. They’ve maintained most of the original 1966 floor plan, although they opened up the kitchen and added a The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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magnificent master suite in 1998. Sue and Rob use the same word when describing the condition of the grounds and landscaping when they bought their home: “wasteland.” That’s about the last word that would come to mind today. The destination-resort feel begins as soon you drive onto the property: there’s a sport-court for basketball, pickle ball, volleyball or hitting tennis balls. It doubles as a parking area when the Abrahamsons entertain, which is often. (More on that later.) Down the hill is the house, 4,200plus square feet of casual comfort. One can barely make it through the entryway without stopping to enjoy the view of Yarrow Bay to the east, along with the living room, dining area and kitchen. 48
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The kitchen, with its custom cabinets—there is an amazing amount of storage space—was, not surprisingly, designed with entertaining in mind. It’s hard to overlook the Lacanche cooktop and the Dacor double ovens, although the wine refrigerator is more subtly tucked under one of the spacious granite counters.
Sue and Rob’s home offers no shortage of space for rest, relaxation and/or recreation, whether indoors or out. A breakfast nook, added during the 1998 remodel, looks out onto a park-like setting to the south; a door opens onto a private deck with a barbeque area. A spiral staircase leads to
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the ground level, although a large east-facing deck along the main floor beckons; it looks like the perfect spot for morning sunshine—ith coffee and a newspaper, perhaps—and afternoon shade. If one does spiral down to the ground level, there’s a heated pool, hot tub and gas fire pit, adjacent to a large outdoor seating and dining area. This is where the Abrahamsons entertained about 50 guests at a mini-concert by family friend Mike Murphy, a comedian/guitarist/singer who is a Sun Valley (Idaho) legend. There is still a sizable lawn to traverse before getting to the 150-foot dock. It has a covered slip for a ski boat, although the 50-foot “T” at its end accommodates Sue and Rob’s 56foot Navigator. They’re avid boaters
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who have explored much of the Salish Sea, although they both smile as they talk about entertaining friends by taking them via boat to University of Washington football games. Husky Stadium is also located at the edge of Lake Washington, about three miles west of Yarrow Point; arriving for games by boat is a Seattle tradition. Because the water of Yarrow Bay often heats to 80 degrees, it’s tempting to dive in and swim from nearly 100 feet of low-bank waterfront, although the Abrahamsons keep kayaks stashed under the deck. Step back into the home and you’ll find a rec room that is large enough to still feel spacious despite the pool table; there is plenty of room to sit down and watch movies or sports. There’s a wet bar, one of the house’s two laundry rooms, and a bathroom—there’s an outside entrance for swimmers—with a steam shower, in addition to two bedrooms and an office with its own private entrance. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Going back to the main floor, go up a few more steps past an additional two bedrooms and you have arrived at the master suite. If there’s such thing as an indoor destination resort, this may be it: the bedroom has its own private deck and cedar-lined storage beneath the lake-view window seat, and shares an in-wall gas fireplace with the bathroom. On the other side of the fire, you’ll find a jetted soaking tub, hisand-hers vanities and an enormous walk-in closet, not to mention a quiet, sunny “task room” and a second laundry room. A graduate of Washington State University, Rob is a “mostly retired” Certified Public Accountant. 52
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SAN JUAN ISLAND to connect
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Sue, Portland-born and educated at Oregon State University, was an elementary-school teacher and Revlon representative before moving to Seattle, meeting and marrying Rob, then focusing on raising their two sons, now 26 and 23. “A mom never retires,” she points out. The Abrahamsons have reached a point in life where they want a smaller house in Washington as a complement to their winter home in Palm Desert, CA—so the Yarrow Point house is up for sale. But, considering their love of the greater Seattle area and Lake Washington, it’s not surprising that they have already purchased their next home: a condominium in nearby Kirkland. Perhaps even less surprising, it’s on the waterfront. 54
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It’s All Here. THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW, is nestled on the shores of the Puget Sound, less than 10 minutes from the west end
of the Hood Canal Bridge. The Resort is home to beautiful residential neighborhoods, a 37-room boutique waterfront inn, a 300-slip marina, and a championship 18-hole golf course, recognized as the “Most Scenic in the World” by Esquire Magazine. Whether you’re looking for a get-away or a new place to call home, explore Port Ludlow.
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Glenwood Springs Chinook The Fish That Started “Long Live The Kings” by Natasha Dworkin and Jacques White
O
n a former fruit orchard overlooking Orcas Island’s East Sound, Long Live the Kings’ Glenwood Springs Field Station is the site of something remarkable. When Jim Youngren hatched a plan to create a Chinook run on 56
| HARBORS
Orcas Island, WA where none had existed before, some folks thought he was crazy. That was 1978, and those folks might have been right. But 37 years later Jim’s wild idea has paid off: the Glenwood Springs Chinook program is contributing to valuable
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and sustainable fisheries in Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia. Because no wild Chinook originate in the San Juan Islands, the Glenwood program is able to serve sport, tribal, and commercial fishers—and help support our iconic Southern
Resident killer whales—without posing a threat to endangered fish. Just as importantly, the salmon at Glenwood Springs are reared in natural, earthen ponds—unlike traditional hatcheries that have concrete raceways. This results in fish that ap-
pear more like their wild cousins. The nonprofit organization Long Live the Kings (LLTK) took over management of the facility in 1986, and they have worked hard over the years to improve and expand the Glenwood Springs program; creating
new rearing, research and recovery projects, and building and nurturing the facility itself as a hub for community involvement and education. “We’ve earned scientific credibility, or ‘stream cred,’ through decades of
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running a sustainable program on Orcas Island, and grown the organization to have much broader influence,” said LLTK Executive Director Jacques White. This credibility has been critical as LLTK has expanded its role in Chinook recovery by partnering with federal and state agencies, tribes, and other nonprofits to pursue broad changes to management, improved restoration planning, and basic research-focused populations in both fresh-water and saltwater environments. Programs at Glenwood Springs create opportunities for the public to interact with salmon in diverse ways. The Chinook are the undisputed stars of LLTK’s annual Salmon Homecoming Celebration, which brings more than 100 people to the former orchard each fall to get up- close and personal with hundreds of Glenwood-hatched fish. Glenwood Springs also hosts year-round tours for hundreds of students, community organizations, politicians, researchers and interested citizens. About Chinook Salmon Chinook are the largest of all salmon species, known to grow to more than 50 inches in length. Revered as a prize by sports fishers, Chinook earned the nickname “kings,” and are LLTK’s namesake. But, like other salmonids, Chinook populations have suffered in the face of factors such as climate change, habitat loss, over-harvesting and inappropriate hatchery practices. Puget Sound Chinook were listed as threatened under the U.S. Endangered Species Act in 1999. LLTK’s Chinook-recovery projects range from in-the-stream tactical work with native fish populations to high-level strategic planning, and are driving results from the San Juans, through Puget Sound, to Hood Canal and beyond. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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2015 Glenwood Springs Chinook Program Highlights “Since retiring to the San Juans, I’ve averaged 500 hours per year fishing for Pacific salmon. If it wasn’t for LLTK’s Glenwood Springs Hatchery, I would have done more ‘fishing’ than ‘catching.’ Glenwood Springs provides a major boost to sport fishing throughout the Salish Sea, and consequently, LLTK has gained my support.” –Mike Sear, North Puget Sound fisherman and LLTK supporter
• Glenwood again saw a banner return of Chinook: nearly 900 fish. • Guests at LLTK’s annual Salmon Homecoming event in September had a rare opportunity to view hundreds of Chinook up close, jumping the ladder from Eastsound to Glenwood Springs. • The sizeable returns made for a significant contribution to north Puget Sound fisheries; provided excess fish for the Orcas Island Food Bank and Public Schools; and sold the highest-grade returning fish to local markets and restaurants to help support the program. • Glenwood Springs facility manager Mike O’Connell continued our highly popular “Salmon in the Classroom” program with local schools throughout the San Juans. • Mike worked with Moran State Park and Friends of Moran State Park, rearing kokanee for Cascade Lake and installing a kokanee-display tank at the park’s Summit Science Center on Mt. Constitution. • Mike also assisted NOAA scientist Josh Chamberlin with research on juvenile salmon and steelhead survival as a part of the Salish Sea Marine Survival Project. How to visit Glenwood Springs on Orcas Island Tours are by appointment only; contact LLTK’s main office, 206-382-9555 to arrange a visit. www.lltk.org
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By Seaplane or Boat. . . However you arrived – We’ve already been there. From Washington to Alaska, Your Source for Marinas, Restaurants, Services, Points of Interest and much more.
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HARBORS
VISIT US AT BOOTH # 1132 Jan 29 - Feb 6
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Did you know this about the Seattle Boat Show? • In addition to contributing to the local economy (through boat and accessory sales), the show is a unique asset of Seattle tourism and a destination event • Largest boat show on the West Coast • Attendance: 50-55,000 • Duration: 9 days (Jan 29 – Feb 6, 2016) • Hotel nights booked in Seattle: 1,431+ • Attendees travel from at least 31 states and six Canadian provinces, and as far away as Dubai and Sao Brazil | HARBORS 66 Paulo, www.harborsmagazine.com
Washington boating by the numbers: • Households in Washington state own a boat: 26% • Total value of all boats (new and used) sold in WA for a calendar year: $454M • Boat sales in Seattle are up 23% last year • Average value of a boat sold in WA: $12,000 • Registered boats in WA: 238,000* • Fishing and crabbing licenses sold in WA: 939,500** *Does not include kayaks, canoes, SUPS, etc.
**1 in 9 residents
George Harris President and CEO Northwest Marine Trade Association Seattle, WA
Before taking the helm of the NMTA six years ago, George was the Seattle Boat Show director for 10 years. A lifelong boater and avid fisherman, George often starts his day at the crack of dawn fishing for salmon on Puget Sound before heading to the office. The NMTA is the nation’s oldest and largest regional marine association, representing more than 700 companies—from stand-up paddleboard dealers to super-yacht builders, and everything in between. Members include boat dealers, boat brokers, marinas, boatyards, manufacturers, retailers, publications, and suppliers of boating accessories and services. While the NMTA is best known for the Seattle Boat Show, it is also an indispensable voice for its members at Washington’s state capitol in Olympia: advocating on their behalf for boating, recreational fishing, tourism and workforce issues. It also has created three non-profit organizations: Clean Boating Foundation, Fish Northwest and the NMTA Health Trust. George has been working in or around the water since he was 15, in his hometown of Menominee, MI. He started working at the local scuba-diving shop before he could drive—he got there on his skateboard. In high school and college he taught scuba diving and worked on a diving-charter boat in the Great Lakes. It was his first job out of college at Michigan State University, where he received his Bachelor of Arts in zoology. He was one of 15 outdoor recreation leaders appointed by Washington Governor Jay Inslee to his 2014 Blue Ribbon Task Force on Outdoor Recreation. They developed an action plan and recommendations to manage, transform, better leverage, and/or develop Washington’s outdoor recreation assets and state programs to increase outdoor recreation activities, as well as promote the jobs and business associated with outdoor recreation. George lives in Seattle with his wife Lisa and teenage daughters Bailey and Jackie. In between work, school, soccer practices and everything else that makes up a modern urban lifestyle, the Harris family likes to be on their Seasport 24 whenever they can. The San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands and Princess Louisa have been favorites the last few years. Prior to George becoming salmon-obsessed the family cruised on board their Crown 34 sailboat all over Puget Sound and British Columbia.
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Paddling Products To Peruse by Tom Tripp
During these dark, coldest days of winter, I thought it would be fun to thumb through (okay ... click through) the pages of some of our favorite outfitters’ catalogs to see whether there might be something useful to pick up before spring. Whether you are a dedicated kayaker or canoeist, or you keep a kayak or two at your island house or on your boat—or even just rent every so often while traveling—there are a couple of pieces of gear you might consider. Bags and Storage You know you will be taking your cell phone with you out on the water, if for no other reason than it’s the only camera you use these days. So make sure you can protect it and still use it. The Sensor Dry Envelope from Outdoor Research ($16 USD) has a 68
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Outdoor Research Duct Tape Dry Bags
clear, touchscreen-compatible side. It comes in three different colors, and it’s both waterproof and submersible. It also comes in three sizes, from 6” x 7” up to 13” x 15” and even the largest one only weighs three ounces. The smallest size will accommodate all but the largest of cell phones. Outdoor Research also has a nifty set of dry bags that pay tribute to the inimitable outdoors “do it yourself ” tool; i.e., a roll of classic silver duct tape. The Duct Tape Dry Bag ($27 USD) will keep your stuff dry in nearly every condition except extended immersion. They come in volume sizes from 5 liters to 35 liters, with a classic roll-top closure and radio frequency-welded seams. Like all OR products, they’re guaranteed forever, so you’ll only need to buy dry bags once in your lifetime. Wearables Perennial paddlers are probably familiar with the NRS line of products, but one that’s particularly nice for exploring some of the remote coves and beaches is the NRS Paddle Wetshoe ($55 USD), which will not only keep your toes warm and cozy but protect your feet when you haul out on a beach to take a rest and a gander at the local flora and fauna. You’re not going to go hiking with these on, but for getting around a beach and for staying warm and dry in the kayak, they’re perfect.
NRS Paddle Wetshoe
Lee Hoffman Manager West Marine Store Port Townsend, WA
Originally from Santa Monica, CA, Lee Hoffman moved to Manette, WA in 2013 to be a financial services consultant. Providing complete financial services, from simple term-life to complex retirement strategies, Lee worked with individuals, businesses and households to help them secure a positive future. After a time Lee reset his goals and priorities, and started thinking about where his heart and passions really lie. After long talks with his wife Lisa, Lee did some soul-searching and discovered he was tired of trying to convince people how to manage their finances for retirement. Lee wanted a change—so he set out to find his passion. Lee now lives in Port Townsend, WA where he manages the West Marine store, running day-to-day operations, and establishing strong ties in maritime industries, as well as growing a strong community presence. He is founder and CEO of Bremerton Historical Vessels, and stays busy restoring his boat Lady Dianne, a 174-year-old historical Victorian vessel. Lee and Lisa enjoy traveling around the waters of Puget Sound; a favorite destination is Coupeville, WA. They also love the Gulf Islands and the Inside Passage. They are avid cooks; ranging from barbequing salmon to cooking five-course French meals on their Lacanche range. Lee has two libraries in his home filled with books on maritime topics, science fiction, history and cooking. When asked about his memorable experiences on the water, Lee says, “There are just too many to recount, but my fondest memory is an early morning in the late 1960s: only me and my granddad on the flying bridge nosing past a pod of orcas, heading up to Princess Louise Inlet.” If you have a chance stop by the Port Townsend West Marine store and say hi to Lee Hoffman—he is a great resource for marine products and vessel restoration.
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Ruffwear K-9 Float Coat
Paddlers Supply Company SKWOOSH
Sea to Summit Paddle Leash
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Does your dog come with you out on the water? REI offers the ultimate in poochly PFDs – the Ruffwear K-9 Float Coat ($80 USD). It’s designed to help your dog float in a natural position and comes in four different, adjustable sizes. The best feature to my mind is the strong, wide handle at the top for hoisting the dog out of the water. The REI website even offers a video from Ruffwear showing you how to measure your dog’s girth in order to pick the right size. There’s also a smaller loop on the top for attaching a safety light or flasher. I’m going to stretch the term “wearable” a bit here, but if you’re like me and longer hours in a kayak leave you fidgeting to relieve the pressure on the part of you that contacts the kayak, then the Paddlers Supply Company SKWOOSH paddling cushion ($50 USD) at REI will bring you back to posterior nirvana. The seats in most kayaks are pretty good, but a little extra padding—in this case, lightweight gel in combination with a thin layer of cross-linked foam—can relieve the pressure. The pad has a nonskid bottom surface, a waterproof cover and—just in case you capsize—it floats. It also has a hanging loop for storage and drying. This would be the perfect kind of paddling accessory to bring along even if you’re just renting. Lastly, how about a “wearable” for your paddle? When the kids drag the kayaks down to the water, you will naturally make sure they’re wearing PFDs and they know how to communicate if they get in trouble. But one kind of trouble kids often get into when they’re paddling is losing the paddle itself. At REI you can pick up a Sea to Summit Paddle Leash ($20 USD) that will eliminate that particular risk. We don’t always think about it, but losing your paddle means you could end up being up a creek ... uhh ... well, you know. www.outdoorresearch.com www.rei.com
PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
H A R BO RS
West Coast Wilderness Lodge
Fly in, fly out West Coast Wilderness Lodge is an unforgettable wilderness destination on Canada’s Sunshine Coast. Fly round trip with Kenmore Air from Seattle to the Lodge. Enjoy three night’s accommodation, two dinners, daily breakfast, kayaking, hikes into Skooumchuck Rapids and a tour for two of famous Princess Louisa Inlet.
Where wilderness adventure happens
From $1407 CDN per person 1.877.988.3838 |
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WWW .WCWL.com
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
The Cove Lakeside Resort, West Kelowna, BC
Standing on the balcony of my hotel room, I’m dazzled by the sun as it shines through the trees, bouncing diamonds of light off both the turquoise swimming pool and the adjoining lake. The annual fall Okanagan wine festival has started and I’ve checked into the Cove Lakeside Resort in West Kelowna, British Columbia for three nights. The resort, which is located on the shore of 89-mile long Lake Okanagan, is no ordinary hotel. There are 120 suites—ranging in size from one to three bedrooms—each with its own private balcony, offering views of the lake, mountains or lush gardens. Each suite has a full kitchen, complete with granite countertops, stainless-steel appliances and Keurig coffee maker. Our 72
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suite also contained a wine fridge, a nice addition as it ensured that our wine was always the perfect temperature. The suites are each individually owned, but many owners choose to put their condo into the rental pool, which is run by a property-management company. Although some owners do live here year-round, the majority of the suites are occupied by resort guests. The Cove lies on Gellatly Bay, across the lake from the bustle of downtown Kelowna—the third-largest metropolitan area in the province—and is the perfect place for a summer vacation. Its lakefront location and private beach are ideal for those who wish to swim, participate in other aquatic activities
www.harborsmagazine.com
by Pat Awmack
such as stand-up paddle-boarding, or simply relax and enjoy the views of the lake. Resort guests who wish to moor their boats in the secure, private marina can do so for an additional charge. Those who arrive by floatplane could likely disembark at the dock, but there isn’t adequate space for the plane to remain docked during a visit. Although the brilliant sun was persuasive, the cool October breeze dissuaded us from taking a plunge in the pool. The temperature wasn’t a deterrent to a few younger guests, who spent hours enjoying themselves on the waterslide. Both pools and hot tubs are open seasonally. Barbeques on the grounds offer guests the opportunity to grill their
own meals and there are three outdoor gas fire pits which make convivial gathering spots, particularly in the evening hours. The weekend I was there, everyone was very respectful of honoring quiet hours and groups all dispersed to their individual suites by 10 p.m. The Cove’s farm-to-table eatery, the Bonfire Restaurant, is helmed byExecutive Chef Brian Fowke—formerly of Vancouver’s popular Kits Daily restaurant—who is passionate about serving fresh West Coast ingredients. He’ll have a steady supply of local produce from the resort’s Bonfire Culinary Garden, which sits across the street. Here, a team of gardeners produces 75-plus varieties of tomatoes, a number of different squash varieties, beans, herbs and much more. As I explored the garden, I stopped to visit the pen where three pigs (blissfully unaware that their days were numbered) happily snuffled and snorted a welcome. The restaurant’s wine list contains a diverse selection of local Okanagan wines as well as a selection of international vintages. Although it wasn’t warm enough when I visited, I can’t imagine anything better than relaxing on the restaurant’s patio, enjoying a chilled glass of rose as I soak up the warmth of the summer sun. There’s plenty to keep you occupied during your stay at the Cove. There are dozens of award-winning wineries to visit, numerous golf courses nearby, hiking, biking and winter skiing. Visit during the summer and book a flightseeing tour of the area through AirHart Aviation. I guarantee you won’t be bored!
The Cove Lakeside Resort 4205 Gellatly Road West Kelowna, BC V4T 2K2 877.762.2683 www.covelakeside.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Alderbrook Resort, Union, WA
Union, Washington, may not be in the middle of nowhere, but it’s sufficiently close to “nowhere” that when the Alderbrook Resort & Spa opened in 1913, it was only accessible by boat and by foot. The resort was orignally tents and rustic cabins, a place where Seattle artists could get away from the hustle and bustle by boarding a steamship to Hoodsport, then hike to a place where they could create art inspired by the natural wonders around them. It took nine years before Alderbrook had electricity, courtesy of the Dalby Waterwheel, which still turns today. Union is now accessible by boats, seaplanes and automobiles, and has every modern convenience—yet it retains the charm of “getting away from it all.” This is a world-class “nowhere.” It’s next door to Olympic National Park. It abuts the shoreline of a gla74
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cier-carved fjord—the inaptly named Hood Canal. And it offers some of the best birding, boating and hiking activities anywhere. The crown jewel for a visit to Hood Canal is the Alderbrook resort. Located on the fjord’s south shore, it encompasses 12 acres, including 5.5 miles of hiking trails, 16 cottages complete with fireplaces and kitchens, and 93 well-appointed lodge rooms. “It’s a relaxing destination, but we want people to experience the Hood Canal, the Olympic Mountains, some of the best crabbing and spot-prawn fishing, and every kind of salmon,” said Room Manager Jake Geist. The Restaurant at Alderbrook is one of the beneficiaries of the fjord’s bounty. The Oysters Mignonette are harvested straight from Alderbrook’s waterfront. If you can find fresher oysters, odds are you’re sporting gills.
www.harborsmagazine.com
by Sean Griffin
We arrived just in time for lunch. I ordered clam chowder and the house chardonnay, and both were extraordinary. Clam chowder often seems like potato soup with a few clam remnants; this was more like clam soup with a sprinkling of diced potatoes and focaccia croutons. The service was very good—what you would expect of such a resort— but after we departed the restaurant and checked into our room, it slipped into the extraordinary. As we were about to explore the grounds, my wife noticed that she had misplaced a glove, so she left the orphaned glove in the room. When we returned, the mate was on the counter alongside it. That’s world class. It’s little wonder that Alderbrook consistently rates among the Pacific Northwest’s top destination resorts in magazines ranging from Condé Nast Traveler to Seattle Bride. (HARBORS, too!)
Even so, Alderbrook’s location guarantees that, compared with some regional destinations, there’s not as much competition for space. “In terms of boating, it’s an uncrowded cruising ground—except for the holidays. You pretty much have the place to yourself,” said Cindy Sund, Alderbrook’s director of Marine Services. The area is enough of a getaway destination that Microsoft co-founder Bill Gates built a sizeable compound next door, complete with dock, seaplane float and helipad. The Alderbrook dock has both 30amp and 50 amp power, pump-outs along the length of the dock, and space for two seaplanes. Fuel—ethanol-free gas and diesel—is available at the nearby Hood Canal Marina in Union, about two miles away. Two boats are regularly moored at the Alderbrook: the 54-foot Lady Alderbrook, which guests may rent as a party yacht or scuba diving; and the Pleiades, a working replica of an 1830 Eastport pinky schooner, available for excursions ranging from a few hours to several weeks. The Alderbrook is a year-round destination. During our visit on a drizzly December afternoon, a number of chum salmon were still making their final voyage up Alderbrook Creek. The main lodge was ablaze with holiday decorations, including a model train set. And the enticing glow of a Christmas tree could be seen through the windows of each of the cottages. I didn’t think to ask whether the resort would substitute a menorah on request, but given my other experiences there, I wouldn’t be surprised.
Alderbrook Resort & Spa 7101 E. State Highway 106 Union,WA 98592 360.898.2200 www.alderbrookresort.com
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Brentwood Bay, Central Saanich, BC
At the time, it struck us as odd. After telling several people about our upcoming visit to the Brentwood Bay Resort & Spa, they all said the same thing: “Make sure you try the sushi!” So upon our arrival, we tried it at a fireside table with a great view, accompanied by a nice British Columbia Pinot Gris—and we quickly understood what the fuss was about. The sushi was fresh and delicious; the preparation was impeccable, as was the service in the Dining Room. What I’m even happier to say is there are many other things to love about Brentwood Bay. (That includes those of you who don’t yearn for sushi— 76
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the menu that rainy evening included seafood, chicken, pork, beef, lamb and a vegetarian gnocchi.) Nestled along the bay it is named for, Brentwood Bay features 33 wellappointed rooms, along with one of Canada’s best spas, a year-round pool and hot tub, and its own private marina. We settled into a Deluxe Ocean Suite with a king-size bed, a fireplace, two comfy leather chairs and floorto-ceiling windows that provide a view of the bay from the jetted soaking tub. Like every other room, we had a private terrace furnished with table and chairs.
www.harborsmagazine.com
by Russ Young
While my companion was pampered in the spa—which has its own poolside lounge and fireplace— I walked the property with Housekeeping Manager Pablo Reyes. He’s a native of Colombia with extensive hotel-industry experience. Pablo passed up opportunities with larger Victoria-area hotels to join the team at Brentwood Bay. When asked why, he responds with words like “family,” “culture,” “warmth” and “human element.” Those words came alive in our interactions with the staff. The hotel was built 11 years ago, but is maintained with such care that it looks brand-new. That’s why it’s
even more surprising that a major refresh of the rooms and common areas will begin during 2016. The decor is both contemporary and casually elegant, while feeling inviting and comfortable. The extensive use of glass and natural wood keeps guests in touch with the natural beauty of the setting. The entire building is a gallery for Canadian artists; everything on display is available for sale. Although Central Saanich is 20 minutes from the heart of Victoria, Brentwood Bay offers unique access to one of the area’s major attractions: Butchart Gardens. You can make a visit even more memorable by taking the resort’s EcoCruising boat to the gardens’ back entrance—Pablo calls it the “VIP entrance”—avoiding a wait in line that can be up to an hour during the summer. The boat is also used for tours of the bay, Saanich Inlet and the surrounding shores. The marina also offers kayaking and scuba diving. If you come on your own boat to stay ashore, or are interested in short-term moorage, there are 50 slips; washrooms with showers, a laundry facility and a fitness room are all located on the dock. Back inside, you’ll find the Brentwood Pub, which is a favorite of friendly local residents. We found it equally suited to enjoying a Sunday-morning Caesar while discussing football and hockey with a genial bartender, as well taking in a casual meal, complete with a fine selection of BC beers and wines. We recommend taking an opportunity to visit the Brentwood Bay Resort & Spa, and enjoying everything it offers. Oh—and don’t forget to try the sushi ...
Brentwood Bay Resort & Spa 849 Verdier Avenue Victoria, BC V8M 1C5 250.544.2079 brentwoodbayresort.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Don’t Miss Our Next Issue March/April 2016 Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle
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North Island Marina Craft Brewing
Grumman Goose
Port McNeill , BC
Island Waterfront Living
Alaska’s Ward Air Bear Creek Outfitters
USD $6.95 CAN $7.95
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PUZZLE
Solution on page 71
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What do you say to the best room in town in one of the world’s most perfect harbors?
Hello Victoria.
• 4 moorage locations, just steps away from Victoria’s vibrant downtown • Short and long term moorage
• Laundry, washroom & showers available • 30, 50 and 100 amp available plus Wi-Fi • Full dock security with gate access
• Moorage for vessels up to 375 ft
GVHA.CA | 250 383 8326 ext. 265 | 1 877 783 8300 | reserVAtions@GVHA.CA
Q U A L I T Y C R U I S I N G, REAL COMMUNITY You’re not just buying a boat, you’re joining our family.
W
hen you buy a Ranger Tug you expect the fuel efficient Volvo diesel performance, the convenience of trailering and the generous accommodations. What may come as a surprise is the passionate group of owners known as “Tugnuts.” Most everything you want to know about our boats, along with camaraderie, cruising, tips & customer service are just a few clicks way on our online forum Tugnuts.com.
“We see boating as a lifestyle choice more than a recreational activity and as such we were drawn to Ranger Tugs because, overall, we felt that being a member of the Ranger Tugs family would provide us with a feeling of community while doing what we love to do most… boat!” — Jim & Lisa Favors, R-27 TrailerTrawlerLife.com
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