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HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368
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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS MANAGER George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns MARKETING & MEDIA DEVELOPMENT Greg Bennett ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com Katherine Kjaer, Canada Bob Johnston, US CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack George Bivoino Sue Frause Simon Kelly Todd Martin
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View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Adventure & Lifestyle Videos
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Island Webcam Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
PHOTO CREDITS Sean Bondaroff pgs. 16-21 Shane Carlson, pg. 20 (top) Duncanby Lodge, pg. 20 (bottom) Salt Spring Air, pgs. 22-29 Bart Rulon, pgs. 30-39 Sotheby’s Bellevue pgs. 42-48 Pat Awmack, pgs. 50-54
Bart Rulon Michael Sealfon Anne Yeadon-Jones Russ Young
AJ Hunt, pgs. 58-62 Doug Wilson, pg. 64 Todd Martin, pgs. 65, 68-69 US Coast Guard, pgs. 66-67 Harbour House, pgs. 72-73 Ship Harbor Inn, pgs. 74-75 Fairmont Waterfront, pgs. 76-77
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HAR B O R S
Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher If you haven’t already booked your summer adventures, this issue of HARBORS will certainly get you motivated to explore some great destinations! This issue features not only some great destinations like Rivers Inlet and Granville Island, but also a spectacular sampling of Pacific Northwest whale photographs by wildlife photographer Bart Rulon. I’m certain they will make you want to go whale-watching. Last month our editor Russ Young took a flight on Salt Spring Air to British Columbia’s Salt Spring Island and shares his adventure in two articles about the island in this issue. Salt Spring Island is a wonderful summer destination, accessible by seaplane and boat. It’s one of the Gulf Islands, in the Strait of Georgia between mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island. Once you put down the magazine, take a look at our website www.harborsmagazine.com – we’ve given it a facelift and added some exciting video on HARBORS seaplane and boating adventures, including a good video about “How to become a seaplane pilot.” You can send us a note from the website, or by email (info@harborsmagazine.com), and tell us about your adventures this summer as well. Or post your photos on our Facebook page at #harborsmagazine. Whether you are exploring the Pacific Northwest by seaplane or a boat, I know you will enjoy the exciting destinations in this issue of HARBORS. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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2014 JULY/AUGUST
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Features Fishing Rivers Inlet Northern BC
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Salt Spring Air
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Pacific Northwest Whales
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Waterfront
50
Granville Island Marina
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Gallaghers’ Where U Brew
The Islanders’ Airline Salish Sea Wildlife
Hood Canal Waterfront Estate, Lilliwaup, WA
Vancouver, BC
Edmonds, WA
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Latest Trends in Boating Gear
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US Coast Guard Auxiliary
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Travel Savvy
(photo by Sean Bondaroff)
Cover Photo: Aerial view of Rivers Inlet Sportman’s Club Lodge, BC.
Cooler Bags for your Catch Recreational Boating Safety is our Mission Boat Launch Etiquette
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Seaplane & Boating Destinations
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Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
Salt Spring Island, BC • Anacortes, WA • Vancouver, BC
Meet the Faces of Harbors Destinations
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HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club
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San Juan Classic Day Sailing
Hotel Grand Pacific
San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching
Fairholme Manor
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Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast
Prime Steakhouse & Lounge
Tucker House Bed and Breakfast
Royal BC Museum
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Olympic Peninsula
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Notes From Our Readers AZ Summer Visitors We really enjoyed the magazine on our boat this spring. Lots of places we’d like to see. We love sharing HARBORS with our friends in AZ, they come north regularly to beat the heat. Keep up the good work. Diane and Jeff Edmonds, WA
Shellfish Fans Great article on the Penn Cove Mussels. One thing we love about the Northwest is the shellfish. We come up to Puget Sound every summer to fish and cruise the islands. Please renew our subscription for another year. B. Jarvis Santa Barbara, CA
Ahoy Being a veteran boater and fishing guide I picked up a copy of HARBORS on a float plane ride out of Richmond, BC. Would be interested in more articles on the Broughton Islands and Desolation Sound. I may have to subscribe so I don’t have to chase down the next issue. Good Stuff. Capt. Jake Salish Sea
Promoting Safe Flying Protecting Washington Waters
WASHINGTON SEAPLANE PILOTS ASSOCIATION The WSPA is a group of over 200 friendly and knowledgeable "old-timers" and individuals new to the sport of Water Flying. We try to have some fun while doing it. We gather together on a number of occasions each year to share our interests and lives.
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Our main objective is to Keep Washington Waterways OPEN.
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Fishing Rivers Inlet By Simon Kelly
By Marianne Scott
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R
ivers Inlet, on the central coast of British Columbia, holds a mythical spot in the minds of salmon fishermen. It is a place where trophies are caught, records are broken and legends are made every summer. The salmon that return to spawn in the rivers of the inlet each year are larger than those from most other Pacific Coast watersheds. This is due to the unique gene pools that produce larger fish in the Chuckwalla, Kilbella and Wannock rivers at the head of the inlet. The largest King salmon ever recorded in Rivers Inlet was caught in a gill net and weighed 126 lbs; the biggest one caught on rod & reel was 83 pounds, 3 ounces. There is a rich history of commercial fishing in the inlet, dating back to the late 1800s. At the peak in 1940s there were nine canneries operating in the area, taking advantage of one the world’s largest Sockeye salmon runs. By the 1960s the last of these operations closed down, due to depleted fish stocks and technological advances (refrigeration, ice, faster boats, float planes). The scenery around this 35 milelong fjord is spectacular, with snowcapped mountains descending to the shoreline. Wildlife abounds in Rivers Inlet with some of the best whale watching on the Pacific Coast. In addition, there are the complement of eagles, seals, sea lions, river otters and many types of seabirds. Located 300 miles northwest of Vancouver, access to Rivers Inlet is only by seaplane (except for the occasional, very hardy boater). There are no roads; you are truly in the wilderness. If you take the two-hour direct flight from Vancouver on Seair Seaplanes, you won’t lose a lot of fishing time getting there. There are a number of lodges located along the inlet, as well as a marina (if you’re one of those hardy boaters.) The lodges provide self-catered or allinclusive packages (including your airfare from Vancouver, lodging, food, HARBORS |
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boat, tackle, fish processing and fishing instruction). They also provide the option of self-guided or partially/fully guided trips. You can custom-cater your package based on your knowledge and experience. However, you don’t need to have any fishing equipment or previous fishing knowledge to enjoy the Rivers Inlet experience. The fjord is a place where young and old alike can enjoy a safe, comfortable fishing trip. There are many fishing spots in close proximity to the lodges, and the waters are usually calm, especially between the islands. In the past few years, fishing for salmon & halibut in and around the inlet has been exciting due to the Coho (Silvers) and Chinook (Kings/Springs) being in abundance during July and August.
This is a place where you can still use old-school techniques like mooching for salmon, where you drift with the current using a cut-plug herring at shallow depth on light tackle. When the bite is really on you can even catch them on a fly! The typical setup is a limber-tipped 10-½ foot rod with a single action, Canadianstyle “knuckle buster” reel. Recently, the downrigger has become increasingly prominent, allowing anglers to get down deeper to where the fish are -- when that top-water bite is not happening. There are also plenty of bottom-fishing opportunities for halibut, lingcod, rock fish and whatever else lurks in the depths. The gear for this is much heavier, with 6-foot sturdy stick rods, multi-action reels, 1-pound leads and
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(Top) Aerial of Rivers Inlet. (Bottom) Fishing at Duncanby Lodge. (Opposite) River’s Inlet Sportsman’s Club celebrating the catch.
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at the head of the inlet, where these monster salmon hold until conditions are right to head up the rivers to spawn. In this small zone anglers are limited to two fish per year and downriggers are banned–an initiative of the lodges, put in place to help protect this unique fishery for future generations. If you are looking for the ultimate remote wilderness trophy salmon fishing destination, then Rivers Inlet is that place.
More Information: 100 pound-test line. There is even a culture of “bass fishing” where anglers use spin caster and surface casting lures to coax the rockfish and smaller lingcod out of the kelp beds. If you spend some time and effort bottom fishing – and are lucky -- you might get a trophy halibut over 100 pounds or a lingcod more than 25 pounds.
Unique to Rivers Inlet is a privately funded hatchery, operated for nearly 30 years by the association of lodges. This program has successfully aided in rebounding the stocks of these legendary trophy Chinook and Coho salmon back to historic levels. Equally unique to the area is a trophy fishing special-management zone
Rivers Inlet Sportsman’s Club www.riversinlet.com Duncanby Lodge and Marina www.duncanbylodgemarina.com Hakai Lodge www.hakailodge.com
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Salt Spring Air “We are the ‘Islanders’ Airline.’” By Russ Young
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sk any of the 22 people who work for Salt Spring Air to describe their company, and that’s the answer you’ll get. Present the same question to the residents of British Columbia’s Salt Spring Island, and you’re likely to get the same reply. Not only is that the airline’s advertising tagline, it’s also a statement of fact: Salt Spring Air is headquartered in the island town of Ganges. Granted, that’s an easy claim for the company, its passengers and neighbors to make, since Salt Spring Air is the only seaplane company that calls the island home. But spend some time with the people of Salt Spring Air, and it becomes clear that the claim of being the “islanders’ airline” is as every bit as figurative as it is literal. First, it helps to have a sense for this very special locale. Located in the Gulf Islands between mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island, 173 square-kilometer Salt Spring is the year-round home to approximately 10,000 residents, including significant numbers of musicians and artists. (The local chamber of commerce points out that’s just the human population: there are also several thousand sheep, a “sizable” deer population, and HARBORS |
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an occasional bear or cougar, believed to swim across the Sansum Narrows from Vancouver Island to visit.) Known for its laid-back, relaxed island vibe, Salt Spring grows to more than 16,000 summer residents, along with day, weekend and longer-term visitors. Other than swimming along with the bears and cougars, the preferred means of getting to Salt Spring Island are via the BC Ferries -- with departures from Victoria and Vancouver – or by seaplane, with scheduled service from Vancouver and, on a seasonal basis, Seattle. Not surprisingly, the most frequent flights to and from the island are provided by Salt Spring Air. During the peak summer season there are five roundtrips per day between Ganges and the (downtown) Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre, with another four trips per day to and from Vancouver International Airport. The airline also provides daily service between Vancouver Island’s Maple Bay and Ganges, in addition to several dozen popular destinations in British Columbia. They offer scenic flights ranging from short aerial tours of Salt Spring and whale-watching excursions, to visiting Vancouver’s Butchart Gardens or cruising British Columbia’s dramatic west coast. Salt Spring Air isn’t the only seaplane company that serves the island, but – as mentioned early – upon meeting the people who run the airline, you’re likely to develop a sense as to why they are the favorite. It starts with the company’s founder, St. Clair McColl. Known by his team, and local residents, by the enviable moniker of “Saint,” he flies regularly, sometimes clad in a leather flying helmet, goggles and a white silk. That’s probably not coincidental with the fact that he is an active performer in the local theater community. (A Google search reveals that he portrayed himself in the 1995 film, “Far From Home: The Adventures of YelThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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(Top) Salt Spring Air flying over scenic BC mountains. (Bottom) Aerial view of Vancouver, BC from Salt Spring Air seaplane.
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low Dog.”) He’s carrying on a family tradition of flying; his father was a decorated fighter pilot during World War II’s Battle of Britian, and two members of his extended family were World War I “flying aces.” He began flying to and from the island in 1985. From its inception in 2003, with a single four-seat Cessna 185, “Saint” has sought to operate the island’s own air service: “floatplanes flown for the locals, by the locals.” Since then, the airline has grown to owning and operating four DeHavilland Beavers. Working with “Saint” since those early days is one of those locals: Lisa Cherneff. She’s a Salt Spring native who has been with the airline for 10 years. Lisa semi-fondly recalls the days when Salt Spring Air’s “office” was a 78 square-foot dockside structure in Ganges that might be generously referred to as a “lean-to.” In those days, three employees and the passengers who were checking in would huddle under the roof, drinking coffee that Lisa and other employees had toted across the village. Today, the airline has a more comfortable office/waiting area, just a few steps from the seaplane dock. But, as Lisa points out, they take pride in knowing how frequent-flyers take their coffee, and often have it ready for them as they arrive. The waiting area is truly unique in that it is decorated with paintings, carvings and sculpture from Steffich Fine Art, a gallery that shares a retractable wall with the seaplane company. When both businesses are open, so is the wall, allowing strolling and artbrowsing between the two. As if “Saint” and Lisa aren’t interesting enough, there is a third partner in the airline: Philip Reece, a witty Brit who worked in the oil-and-gas business, and lived in Ghana and Texas, before relocating to Salt Spring Island. Upon experiencing seaplane travel, he vowed to learn to fly floatplanes –
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The islanders’ airline is full of spirit and dedication – they love what they do.
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which he has – and to work for the airline – which he does. It’s still Philip’s hope to fly passengers some day, but that moment has yet to come. He understands that, saying “Our pilots have a passion for flying. I enjoy it; they love it.” So as he waits for his opportunity, he is Salt Spring Air’s director of business development, maintaining an active presence for the airline on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube, as well as generating and executing growth plans for the business. Philip helps oversee an impressive level of community involvement on the part of Salt Spring Air, saying, “We give a lot back to the community … so much, in fact, that our accountant probably says ‘too much.’” However, he says that with an everpresent smile and sense of humor. The airline’s website (www.saltspringair. com) lists three dozen organizations and events that they have supported, and Philip adds that in the spirit of
being the island’s own, they frequently provide gratis transportation to Salt Spring residents in need. Philip attributes that airline’s success to the differing personalities of “Saint” and Lisa; his artistic flair and bold spirit as a pilot, coupled with her sense of organization. “Meld the two together, and that’s where we are,” he says. It’s also in everyone’s willingness to pitch in and work long hours during the peak season. A “workday” may be 15 or 16 hours during the summer. Even with the lighthearted camraderie that’s evident, running an airline is a serious business. Salt Spring Air has distinguished itself in terms of safety, becoming the first carrier to install emergency pop-out windows in its Beavers. “Saint” and the airline were not only the unanimous winners of Transport Canada’s 2011 Aviation Safety Award, but he also was honored by the Lifesaving Society of British Columbia in 2007 for landing and
rescuing capsized boaters in the Strait of Georgia. His mantra is, “If it’s not safe, we aren’t flying. If it’s not fun, we are not interested.” With such notable community spirit, a well-earned reputation for safety, and a dedicated, hardworking team, what is it that makes Salt Spring Air the “islanders’ airline?” “Everyone likes to root for the local,” says Lisa. “Nobody smiles as much as we do,” says Philip, with an ever-present grin.
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Pacific
Northwest
Whales By Bart Rulon
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y heart was in my throat. I urgently tapped the paddle on my kayak as a black and white submarine surged out of the water, aiming straight for me! An adult male orca (killer whale), with a sixfoot tall dorsal fin, seemed oblivious to my presence as he swam underneath me. I looked straight down and saw his white eye patches glide by against the dark green color of the water. It was a heart-stopping experience that I will never forget. Twenty years ago, this experience sparked a fascination with whales that changed the rest of my life. Two friends and I were on a weeklong seakayak adventure, circumnavigating the San Juan Islands. Near the end of our trip we spent two days along the west side of San Juan Island watching orcas. After the first day we found a precarious place to sleep in a rickety barn near Lime Kiln Lighthouse, a well-known whale watching spot. We crawled up to the barn’s second floor, but it shook every time we moved. I had trouble sleeping, with thoughts of the barn collapsing. The evening air was still and the moon was full. As I lay awake I began to hear the faint sound of exhalation blows in the distance. Gradually they got louder and louder until it became obvious that a
(Opposite) A female southern resident orca breaches in Georgia Strait in front of the Cascade Mountains (Top right) A 42 day-old orca, J49, plays next to his mom HySqua, J37, who was only 12 years old at the time of this photo. Females can reproduce as young as their early to mid-teens. (Bottom right) A young orca calf plays with some bull kelp near Deception Pass after chasing a young playmate.
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pod of killer whales was right out in front of our impromptu motel. I sat up and saw one of the most unforgettable sights of my life; the pod was grouped very close, and the whales were surfacing and submerging together. Their blows lit up in the moonlight and I could see the orcas very clearly with the full moon glistening on the water behind them. Two ecotypes of killer whales are found in the Salish Sea: resident orcas and transient orcas (Brigg’s Orcas). “Resident” is misleading because they do not live in this area year round. Resident orcas spend much of their time in the Salish Sea, especially during the summer, but they venture into the Pacific, off British Columbia, Oregon and California. . Thave been spotted as far away as Monterey Bay, California. The southern resident community is made up of three pods (J, K, and L) that totaled 81 whales
as of September 2013. Resident orcas only eat fish, and they are surprisingly finicky about their piscatorial pursuits. They prefer Chinook salmon by far, and chum salmon as a second choice. By contrast, transient orcas don’t eat fish at all, primarily eating marine mammals. Seals, sea lions, porpoises and other whales are among their targeted prey. Residents and transients don’t mix with each other, and appear to purposely avoid one another. The west side of San Juan Island, and in particular Lime Kiln State Park, is one of the best places in the world to see killer whales from shore. The resident orcas often swim north and south along this side of the island feeding on salmon, and they frequently swim right along the rocky shoreline, especially at Lime Kiln Lighthouse. Every day during the summer people line up on the rocks near the lighthouse hoping to catch a glimpse of these whales Courtesy National Weather Service
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(Above) Two orcas surface in front of Lime Kiln Lighthouse (Whale Watch Park) on the west side of San Juan Island. (Opposite top) Gray whale number 22 (cataloged by Cascadia Research) surfaces after feeding along the eastern shoreline of Whidbey Island. Individual gray whales are identified by mottling and patchwork on their backs and the underside of their tail flukes (Opposite bottom) A gray whale spyhops to take a look above the surface, showing the barnacles that grow on their bodies, especially on their heads.
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as they pass by. For years whalewatching companies have voluntarily agreed to stay a certain distance as a courtesy to the whales and the shorebased viewers alike. During fall and winter these resident orcas regularly venture into Puget Sound to feed on chum salmon returning to their native rivers; they can even be seen off Seattle. Recently the resident orcas have been seen less than in the past. Researchers speculate this may be due to declining Chinook salmon runs. At the same time, sightings of transients are rising. Their primary food source, harbor seals, has been increasing in numbers. The transient orcas’ movements are less predictable than the residents’, and it can be difficult to predict where they might show up from one day to the next. When it comes to whale watching, killer whales are definitely the most sought-after species in the Salish Sea, but three other species are also found here: gray, minke and humpback whales. A small, but regular, group of gray whales visits between March and early May. Ten whales, believed to all be males, visit while migrating northward from their mating and calving waters in Mexico to their cold and fertile summer feeding waters. While in Mexico they don’t eat, or eat very little, so they are extremely hungry as they migrate north. This group swims more than
(Opposite top) Humpback whales are known for their spectacular breaches. Sightings of these whales have been increasing in recent years. (Opposite bottom) Echo, J42, a two year-old female at the time of this picture, breached nine times in a row off Fidalgo Island.
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(Left) Lunge-feeding minke whales can take out a whole school of candlefish or herring in one gulp, ruining a feeding frenzy for the birds at the same time. (Opposite) L27, Ophelia, breaches in Rosario Strait. 200 miles (round trip) out of their way in order to fill their bellies. Feeding primarily on sand shrimp, these big whales are seen from Possession Point at the south end of Whidbey Island, northward toward Everett, Saratoga Passage and Port Susan. Gray whales are seen from shore in many places within this range, including the east side and south end of Whidbey, both sides of Camano Island (especially the southern half ), Gedney Island, Everett and Mukilteo. Gray whale blows shoot 15 feet upward and can be seen for miles under the right conditions. Boat trips departing from Everett, Seattle, Whidbey and Port Townsend seek out the gray whales during the spring. Lucky passengers on the Mukilteo-Clinton ferry run might also catch a glimpse of these seasonal visitors. Gray whales are also spotted from land on the northern Olympic Peninsula, along Highway 112 in Sekiu, Neah Bay, Shipwreck Point, Crescent Bay and Cape Flattery, especially during summer and fall. Minke whales are the smallest of the baleen whales visiting the Salish Sea, ranging between 20 and 30 feet long. They are commonly found feeding over shallow banks in open water. Salmon Bank and Hein Bank are where minke whales are spotted the most, but Eastern, Partridge, McArthur and Middle Banks can also be productive. Most of these hot spots are only visible by boat, but Salmon Bank is visible from the south end of San Juan Island, at American Camp, making it the best shorebound spot to see a minke whale. 36
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Humpback whales are the largest regular visitors to the Salish Sea, reaching 40 to 50 feet long. They tend to stay closer to the ocean than any of the other whales. Many of the sightings happen in the open water of the Strait of Juan de Fuca from Victoria and Port Angeles westward, making those locations ideal for watching humpbacks watching trips boat. However, almost every year there are sightings near the San Juans, in Georgia Strait and even in Puget Sound. Whale watching by boat is still the best opportunity to see these behemoths in the Salish Sea unless you go closer to the ocean and view them from areas such as Sekiu, Neah Bay or Shipwreck Point. Late summer and fall are the best times to watch for humpback whales. Arguably, your chances of seeing whales are highest if you go by boat. None of the whales are tagged, but whale-watching captains work together to cover different waters, searching by sight, and then spreading the word when they find whales. Whale-watching companies depart from a variety of locations, including Anacortes, Port Angeles, Victoria, San Juan Island, Orcas Island, Port Townsend, Vancouver, Bellingham and Seattle. Many whalewatching companies now guarantee
The tails of gray whales (top), and humpback whales (middle) can be used to identify individual animals, but not with killer whales (bottom). The dorsal fin and saddle patch are used to identify individual orcas. (Opposite) Small plumes of sand and mud billow out from the mouth of the only bottom feeding baleen whale species in the world - the gray whale.
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that if you don’t see a whale you return for free until you do. You can see whales from shore at many of the spots listed here, but you have to be in the right place at the right time. Fortunately, for those that want to focus on land-based whale watching there is a network that can help make the process easier. Orca Network was founded in 2001 by Howard Garrett and Susan Berta. This nonprofit organization is a web based network: their Facebook page is the best way to stay informed of whale sightings. For more information visit http://www. orcanetwork.org. www.thewhaletrail. org is also a good source for learning more about good spots to find whales from shore. If you attempt to watch whales from your own boat there are rules that you must be aware of. In Washington you are prohibited from approaching any orca closer than 200 yards. You may not intercept a whale by positioning your vessel in its path. This applies to
all types of boats, including kayaks and sailboats. For other types of whales the distance is 100 yards. Law enforcement authorities keep an eye on boaters viewing the whales, so beware. If you are a wildlife lover and are on or near the Salish Sea, you owe it to yourself to do some whale watching. Hopefully you will find these whales to be as fascinating and inspirational as I have over the last 20 years.
If you enjoyed this article on whales go to our website www.harborsmagazine.com and watch an awesome video on whales in the Pacific Northwest.
Biography Bart Rulon is a professional wildlife artist, photographer, and naturalist living on Whidbey Island, Washington. He is the author of five books, and his work has appeared in numerous museums, books, and magazines. Travels have taken him all over the world to research wildlife subjects including places like Africa, India, South America, and Alaska. You can view Bart’s award winning art and photography at www.bartrulon.com.
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Walter Massey Wildlife Artist Copper Art Work Classes and Workshops Commissioned Pieces 360-344-3611
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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties
Indescribable? Unforgettable! Spectacular Hood Canal Waterfront in Lilliwaup, WA By Russ Young
To put it mildly, the Lilliwaup, Washington home of Gayle and Doug Shinstine creates a conundrum for the first-time visitor. Viewed from outside, is it reminiscent of a Swiss chalet … or a French chateau? No, wait … perhaps the stone entryway and hand-carved front door say “mountain cabin?” Then step inside, and the spectacular living area -- with a wraparound balcony, stone-and-copper fireplace, and carved beams and posts -- almost shouts out, “Northwest fishing lodge.” Doug calls it the “ultimate craftsman.” Perhaps the best description is “all of the above.” Or maybe it is, “almost indescribable.” 42
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. Come Live the
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Regardless, the Shinstine’s home pansive views of Hood Canal. Gayle will never be described as “forgetta- smiles as she recalls watching orcas ble.” Situated mere yards from Hood jumping from the water not far offCanal, the home, the 40 acres of shore; Doug says it is common to property that it sits on, and its 2,150 see groups of ten or more swimming feet of waterfront, will leave an in- together in search of a meal. Other delible impression on any visitor. wildlife visitors to the beach and surBuilt in 1949, the home was up- rounding woods include eagles, seals, dated after the Shinstines purchased otters and deer. Elk can be heard, if it in 2001. Left in disrepair for the not seen, nearby and cougars leave previous ten years, it took a year’s occasional tracks on the property. work by Doug – a retired general The couple are also worthy stewcontractor who studied architectur- ards of the site’s history. The original al engineering – to make it livable home on the property – a tiny cabin again. The roof was built by the patriarch completely replaced, Most of the materials – beach of the Johnson famit was rewired and a rock, fir and cedar – likely ily, who would later new heating system came from the site or nearby. develop the nearby was installed. The Only the pine used for some Alderbrook Resort – kitchen was com- trim and cabinetry appears to remains, although it pletely modernized; now serves as a playhave been brought in. the original rock house for the Shinbase of the breakfast stine’s grandchilbar is all that remains. dren. The lower floor of the adjacent Still, the Shinstine’s dedication to guesthouse – built by the patriarch’s the original design and materials is son – serves as Gayle’s painting sturemarkable. The original footprint dio, although it was originally a cawas not changed; the room layout noe-building shop. The main house, was not altered. There is no sheet- and adjoining patio/solarium, were rock in the house – all of the walls built by the grandson of the original are wood and/or stone. (Most of inhabitant. the materials – beach rock, fir and The partially enclosed solarium cedar – likely came from the site or is an intriguing and inviting strucnearby. Only the pine used for some ture, with a stone fireplace – “great trim and cabinetry appears to have for cooking oysters,” says Doug – a been brought in.) The original win- spring-fed pond and stream, and dow openings were not enlarged, but even a drained counter for preparing completely upgraded with modern oysters, crabs and clams. It’s easy to dual-pane panels. Doug wirebrushed imagine spending long summer days and refinished many of the original and nights without leaving its composts and beams. The bathrooms are fortable confines. largely original, but the fixtures, tile A small deck with a pair of Adironand trim are immaculate. dack chairs makes it equally easy to Where changes were made, they imagine relaxing with a cold drink look appropriate: Doug built a burl- on a sunny day. It overlooks a covand-driftwood counter/desk in the ered boat-launch with a roll-in dolly living room; Gayle’s great-grand- mounted on rails. mother’s woodstove is the centerA stroll uphill from the house and piece of a pantry area they call the beach reveals not one, but two ga“antique kitchen.” rage buildings. The lower of the two The 3,400-plus square foot home is what Doug calls his “dirty shop;” has three bedrooms and an enviable including a hydraulic lift, and space balcony sitting area/office, with ex- for welding and other heavy-metal
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The Shinstines were devoted to maintaining their home’s historic Pacific Northwest character, including the original cedar siding, carved posts and beachrock fireplace.
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The master bedroom, kitchen and office are oriented to offer dramatic views of Hood Canal.
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Even when the day comes that a new owner moves in, their dedication to the craftsmanship, their attention to detail, and their love of the home’s history will likely be passed along. work, which are necessary for his car-restoration hobby. The uphill garage is his version of a “man cave.” It features a second shop where he performs the fine-detail work on his restorations. Three rollup doors open to reveal a spotless garage, showcasing some of his collection of vintage cars and motorcycles. The Shinstines spend part of the year at another house in Nevada, and are now seeking a smaller home closer to Seattle. Even when the day comes that a new owner moves in, their dedication to the craftsmanship, their attention to detail, and their love of the home’s history will likely be passed along.
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Vancouver’s
Granville Island Marina By Pat Awmack
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’m sitting on a 27-foot Catalina sailboat, with the anemic winter sun warming my back and gulls soaring overhead, raucously screeching their displeasure at my presence. As I watch, my son-in-law Desmond hoses the deck free of the mess left by the avian community. Judging by the number of crab and mussel shells that are swept back into the water, the gulls have been enjoying the shelter of the deck-covering tarp for weeks. Desmond’s boat is moored at Burrard Civic Marina in False Creek, Vancouver, minutes from downtown and adjacent to Granville Island, one of the city’s most popular attractions. Once an industrial area, today the island is a tourism and entertainment hotspot. Located on False Creek, across from downtown, it’s readily accessible by boat. As a result, the surrounding waters are buzzing with aquatic activity. Two companies, False
Creek Ferries and Aquabus, carry passengers across False Creek to downtown, and along the length of the inlet. Not far from Aquabus’ dock are berths for personal boats, which can tie up outside the Public Market for up to three hours (spaces are limited). Desmond and his friends often motor to the Market to pick up supplies. Shopping done, they can be in open water within 20 minutes. Because of its location, boaters – local or transient - would be hardpressed to find more convenient moorage than in False Creek. Duart Snow, West Coast editor of Canadian Yachting and long-time Vancouver boater, says, “There are pockets of moorage throughout Vancouver, with False Creek as the prime location.” The marinas are protected from waves and high winds; however, there is a lack of berths for bigger boats. Snow adds, “There is demand for more
slips to accommodate larger boats, but this would require a capital outlay to dredge False Creek.” Granville Island is home to two marinas and a large boatyard. The Maritime Market and Marina - with 160 slips - is the larger of the two and has some of Vancouver’s best moorage. Boatyard Manager Jason Burnip says, “The boats here are largely charter boats and those for sale through yacht brokers. There are perhaps ten private boats and there’s no transient moorage available.” The marina’s location, close to downtown hotels and the seaplane terminal, is ideal for visitors who wish to charter a boat. If you’re hoping to see orcas, Wild Whales of Vancouver Eco Tours would be happy to assist. Or perhaps you want to book a fishing charter. That’s no problem; Bonnie Lee Charters and Bon Chovy Fishing Charters offer guided fishing trips from Granville Island.
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Granville Island Marina is full of landmarks and boating activity.
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Cooper Yacht Charters has sailing expeditions, with a wide variety of boats available, while Ecomarine Paddlesport Centres offers ocean-kayaking lessons and rentals. Blue Pacific Yacht Charters specializes in bareboat charters for both power and sailboats. They offer a customized “Cruise and Learn” program which allows you to combine a vacation with a learning experience, such as learning to sail. If you’re like me and have always wanted to ride a Jet Ski or Seadoo, this is the perfect opportunity. Vancouver Water Adventures’ tours are listed as #5 on Trip Advisor for activities in Vancouver. You’ll be able to take in the stunning views of the city and mountains from the water. The boatyard caters primarily to yacht brokers who are sprucing up the boats they’re selling and the charter companies doing “pre-season” work on their craft; however, it is also open to the general public. Pelican Bay Marina, on the east side of Granville Island, has 50 slips available for year-round rental. Located adjacent to the Granville Island Hotel, this marina also offers temporary visitor mooring. Sea Village, the island’s houseboat community, is a unique pocket of Vancouver real estate. I love the bright colors and architecture of these funky homes. Located just east of the Public Market and with thousands of visitors to the island, it’s likely the residents don’t have much privacy. But talk about “location;” they had memorable views of the grey whale that got lost and swam up False Creek last year. Among my favorite reasons to visit Granville Island is the Public Market, with its fishmongers and butchers, bakeries and cheese shops, local produce and specialty stores. If there’s ever a strange ingredient needed for a recipe, I can almost guarantee I’ll find it there. There are artisans’ workshops and artists’ studios, theaters and restaurants, and even a lovely boutique
hotel (for those times when you want to go ashore and enjoy a real shower). It’s easy to while away a day visiting the shops, or sitting outside with a fresh seafood dish and a glass of BC wine. Although there is limited transient moorage on Granville Island, there are two marinas immediately west of it, a 15-minute walk along the sea wall. The nearest is the False Creek Harbour Authority Fisherman’s Wharf. Fishing boats, some up to 100 feet long, are in the majority here, There is also recreational and transient moorage available. You’ll find electrical and water hookups, laundry, washrooms and showers. The wharf is where I go to buy salm-
Among my favorite reasons to visit Granville Island is the Public Market, with its fishmongers and butchers, bakeries and cheese shops, local produce and specialty stores. on, halibut and spot prawns straight from the boats. For some of the city’s best fish and chips, visit the “Go Fish Ocean Emporium,” a tiny shack located at the marina’s entrance. On a sunny day you may have to wait in line, but once you sit on the seawall, eating and looking at the ocean and the North Shore mountains, you
couldn’t ask for a more visually-stunning experience. The Burrard Civic Marina - with 423 water berths, 162 land-storage spaces and 69 spaces for storing canoes, kayaks and paddleboats - is the largest marina in False Creek. Here you’ll find a launch ramp and a crane. Most of the boats have long-term moorage and pay annual fees. There is a waiting list to acquire a long-term spot. Transient moorage is available at $2.00 per-foot per-day. The Heather Civic Marina is located east of Granville Island. Its rates differ slightly from those at Burrard and live-aboards are allowed here. It also has a waiting list for long-term moorage but there are transient spots
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Beautiful city landscapes and market shopping make Granville Island an urban oasis for boaters and seaplane travelers.
available on a perfoot per-day basis. As my visit on his boat ends, Desmond says, “As the city’s aquatic culture continues to grow, it’s apparent there is a need for more services along False Creek. It would be nice to see more parking available. I think most boaters agree that we’d be willing to pay on a metered system.” Whether this is likely to happen remains to be seen, due to the exorbinant land values in Vancouver. I’ve been lucky enough to be on his boat to watch the annual fireworks display. It’s thrilling to be among the hundreds of boats coming out of False Creek to English Bay. With everyone waving and calling to one another, you feel like you’re part of the False Creek boating community, if only for a few hours.
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Gallaghers’ Where U Brew By George Bivoino
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arly in May I had finished getting my boat ready for summer cruising and fishing just as the Seattle area encountered a rare spring heat wave. Being an avid boater, I could not resist the temptation to seize the brief minisummer and take a short cruise from Des Moines to Edmonds to make sure everything on the boat was in good working order. The cruise north was refreshing and the view of the Olympic Mountains was spectacular. Arriving at Edmonds, I tied up to one of the three guest-moorage docks and checked in, deciding to spend the night. This is a fabulous marina that draws boaters all along the west coast of North America. Most of the amenities (a waterfront plaza, restaurants, stores and a beachfront park) are within walking distance of the marina. I spent the day strolling through town enjoying the sights and having a fantastic lunch at Chanterelle. I came across a couple who were carrying growlers (two-liter glass bottles filled with beer) back to their yacht. On a warm day, the thought of having a refreshing, fresh-from-the-tap-beer was instantly appealing. They said that when they tie up at Edmonds, they always walk up to Gallaghers’ Where U Brew for the craft-brewed beer. “You cannot find magnificent beer
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like this in any store,” they told me. Now curious, as well as thirsty, I set off to check this place out; it’s only a few blocks from the marina. Arriving at the brewery, I immediately noticed that not only do they sell beer by the glass, growler and/or keg, Gallaghers’ is also where people come to brew their own beer, wine, ciders and root beer. (Make note that it’s not a place where you can order food – just pretzels. It’s more of a “workshop with beverage benefits” than a tavern.) Gallaghers’ is primarily a brew-yourown facility. The place was bustling with people in various stages of brewing unique beer blends; their unique concoctions or one of 50 tried-andtrue formulas in Gallaghers’ recipe book. One can replicate some famous beers like Mac & Jack’s or Fat Tire, or create their own flavor. Shortly after I arrived, I saw a familiar face– the owner, Dennis Gallagher. We attend the same church but had never officially met. He showed me around, and shared some history of how he and his wife Sandy got started. Dennis and Sandy launched their namesake brewery in 1995 and it has grown rapidly in popularity. Today, scores of mugs hang from the brewery walls and are labeled with the names of their Mug Club members. Their goal was to create a quality do-it-yourself brewery with a warm, friendly atmosphere. As Dennis says “It is all about being fun. But if that was all it was we wouldn’t get people coming back for 19 years. We make a really nice product and we stand behind it.” Take his word for it - there are many brewing awards hanging on the walls. Gallaghers’ has everything you need to do your own brewing in their facility. The atmosphere is both fun and educational, with people engaging and sharing their techniques in brewing. To make a batch of beer at Gallaghers’, you should plan to spend approximately two hours. Upon arrival, they will determine what styles of beer you enjoy, and help you choose HARBORS |
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a brew from among their recipes. That may be the hardest step in the process; they have everything from wheat beers and pale ales, to ambers and stouts. You may wish to try some samples in their rasting room to see what suits your tastebuds. Once you have chosen your recipe, you’ll get an easy-to-follow instruction sheet and be assigned one of their steam fired, professional kettles to begin crafting your own beer. Upon completing the brewing process, they’ll help you transfer your brew into one of their fermenters and set a date for you to bottle it. The fermenting/aging process takes about two weeks; when you return to bottle your beer, you’ll need to spend about an hour sterilizing your bottles, then bottling and capping your beer. Crafting a full batch results in about 138,12-ounce bottles of the finest beer you’ve ever tasted, costing between 62
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US$150 and $185 (not including bottles). (That’s about US$1.10 to $1.35 for a 12-ounce bottle.) When you bring your beer home, store it in a cool, dark place, and it will be good for between three and six months. Gallaghers’ also offers more than 45 do-it-yourself wine varieties that you can make in their facility. Making your own wine is easier than you think; the initial process takes only 15 minutes, and you can return to participate in the four additional steps. The cost for a wine kit varies from $165 to $235 (not including bottles) and makes 28 bottles (750ml) of wine. Dennis had to get back to his patrons, so I ambled over to the tasting bar to sample their brews. Gallaghers’ features seven taps of outstanding draft beers and root beer . Although I’m primarily an India Pale Ale fan, I tried a sampler of each one – and they all were fantastic. It was a tough decision, and it came down to one of two choices - the Galley Mac Amber and the White Knuckle IPA. I took a growler of Galley Mac Amber back to the boat. After putting the beer on ice, I took a quick walk up to the Beach Café for fish and chips to go. Back on the boat I poured myself a nice cold one, silently toasted Gallaghers’, and enjoyed the beer, my dinner and the wonderful view.
Gallaghers’ is open Tuesday through Friday 2pm to 8pm; Saturdays 10am to 5pm; and Sundays 11am to 3pm. They’re at 180 West Dayton, Suite105, in Edmonds, WA, 425-776-4209. You’ll find them at: www.whereubrew.com or on Facebook FB/GallaghersWhereUBrew
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New cooler bags keep your catch fresh By Todd Martin
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ou’ve had a great fishing trip -- and now need to transport your catch home so you can show off your barbeque skills. Perhaps you have a long drive and want to make sure your fish does not spoil on the way home. Maybe you are looking for a better option to hold and preserve fish on your boat, or when river-fishing from shore. Traditional rectangular plastic coolers are bulky, take up valuable space on your boat deck and are difficult to handle when you already have your hands full of fishing gear. Two companies are now providing a better option. Soft sided, durable cooler bags specifically designed for the steelhead and salmon angler to better protect and transport fish are now available from Silver Horde and Reliable Fishing Products. All of these coolers, commonly known as “kill bags,” have been developed and tested by professional fishing guides. 64
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Directions for use and cleaning directions are similar from both manufacturers: clean and bleed your fish, place them in a plastic bag and then into the cooler bag. Place ice on top of the fish for better cooling properties. Either crushed loose ice or gel freezer-packs can be used in these bags, but if you use crushed ice you will need to drain the water from time to time. Cleaning is a snap; rinse with a hose, and then drain and wipe down. All of these bags collapse when empty for easy storage. These fish-cooler bags are ideal for the steelhead and salmon angler with a small boat, where space is at a premium, or larger boats that don’t want to share their food cooler with fish. Save space and preserve the flavor of your catch with one of these new bags. Then all you have left to do is prepare your best salmon barbeque marinade and invite some friends over for dinner.
Find a g ift wo r th its s alt. Reliable Fishing Products (www.reliablefishing.com) is located in Mission Viejo, California and offers cooler bags in nine sizes, ranging from the smallest RF1836 at 18”x36”, to the cavernous model RF3090 at 30”x90”, which would be suitable for several large Chinook salmon. All of the Reliable bags are made with a vinyl coated, heavy-duty nylon exterior, feature ½” closed cell foam insulation and include a bottom drain spout. They also feature a full length, topaccess zipper and are made with UV-/mildew-resistant thread.
Silver Horde (www.silverhorde.com) is based in Lynnwood, Washington and manufactures the KatchKooler II. This 16”x40” closed-cell foam cooler features a waterproof fabric exterior, fulllength top zipper and wraparound handle. I’ve used this cooler bag when bank fishing for salmon; it is very handy indeed. It currently only comes in one size and is the more economically priced option. The KatchKooler II is also distributed in Canada by Gibbs Delta Tackle (www.gibbsdelta.com).
www.O L D S A LT ME R C HA NTS.c o m
8 8 8 -9 9 5 -S A LT
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US COAST GUARD AUXILIARY Recreational Boating Safety is our Mission By Michael S. Sealfon
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ashington state has more than 200,000 registered recreational vessels which traverse 6,000 miles of navigable coastline and waterways. Maintaining the highest level of boating safety is a 24/7 task, especially during the abbreviated Pacific Northwest summers. Educating the boating public and maintaining vessel seaworthiness is the primary responsibility of Puget Sound’s low-profile guardians—the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary. The Coast Guard Mission One of five missions of the Coast Guard missions is maritime (marine) safety. Due to the increased demands for continental maritime defense and security, this mission is tasked to the USCG Auxiliary. This exclusive group of highly trained, 66
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dedicated and knowledgeable parttime “Coasties” can usually be found at area marinas, local boat shows and in classrooms, promoting and striving to maintain the optimal standards of boating-safety awareness and safe maritime operations. By day these individuals, many of whom are retired military veterans, are mid-level and professional managers for a wide variety of Puget Sound enterprises. On the weekends and evenings, business-casual attire gives way to Coast Guard blue and silver. (The active-duty side has gold uniform accoutrements, while the auxiliary wears silver.) Realizing the critical skill level required for maintaining the highest standards of boating safety and boater education, the Coast Guard provides training for Vessel Examiners (VEs),
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recreational Boating Safety Visitors (RBSVs) and Public Education Instructors (PEs) at an exacting level of expertise.
Vessel Safety Check Program
At the core of the Coast Guard’s Safe Boating Program is the voluntary Vessel Safety Check. Any vessel operator/owner can request this procedure, which permits an Auxiliary Vessel Examiner to board the vessel and conduct a thorough Vessel Safety Checklist (VSC). The successful completion of this inspection results in the issuance of a Coast Guard Inspection decal, which is posted in a specific area of the inspected vessel. Many maritime-insurance companies recognize the risk-reduction value of VSCs and subsequently offer a boater insurance rate reduction.
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Each qualified VE must pass a challenging 50-question written examination and annually perform a minimum of five VSCs. Currently, there are more than 300 VEs in Coast Guard District Thirteen, which includes the Puget Sound area of operations. They combined to perform more than 4,600 VSCs in 2013.
Additional Coast Guard Auxiliary Maritime Missions
The Recreational Boating Safety Visitor Program targets the area boat sales and maritime-supply vendors, and provides them with a continuous stream of current boating safety regulations, educational materials, and an updated list of Auxiliary-sponsored boating-safety educational events. In 2013, the 156 District Thirteen RBSVP specialists concluded more than 4,100 visits to area dealers and marinas. Another group of specially-trained Auxiliary volunteers significantly contributes to the annual inspection and maintenance of Puget Sound’s 256 critical aids-to-navigation (ATONs). Some Auxiliary members are quali-
indoor heated pool full service spa free wi-fi and beach cruiser bikes
EarthboxInn.com 800.793.4756 fied to inspect commercial fishing vessels and examine the seaworthiness of life rafts aboard commercial vessels; others participate in the Derelict Vessel Monitoring Program. And during 2013, Auxiliary instructors provided more than 5,300 hours of public boating-safety education. Auxiliary coxswains and pilots are always prepared to be diverted from their original missions to respond to urgent marine search-and-rescue requests.
The Community Role of the Coast Guard Auxiliary
The Auxiliary is an integral member of the Active and Reserve Coast Guard family, and is continuously seeking qualified and motivated members. The minimum age requirement for membership is 17 years old, with no maximum age limit. There are many varied and exciting specialty areas open to new Auxiliarists of either gender. These include: vessel examiners,
recreational boat-safety visitors, public education and member instructors, coxswains and boat crews, pilots and observers, communications operators, public-affairs specialists, aids-to-navigation technicians, and continuity-ofoperations officers. If you qualify, you can use your previously acquired civilian and/or military skills to serve the Auxiliary, or learn new skills that can prove useful in career building. You can become a member of a nationally respected organization with a creed of honor respect, and devotion to duty. Now is a special time to join the Auxiliary, as it celebrate its 75th anniversary of volunteer service to America. Semper Paratus — “always prepared” is our motto. Dr. Sealfon is a board-certified clinical chemist and laboratory director; a retired Colonel, U.S. Army Medical Service Corps; and a ten-year member of the Coast Guard Auxiliary, as an active pilot in the Auxiliary Air program.
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Boat Launch Etiquette
Avoid the carnage and comedy By Todd Martin
U
nfortunately, there is still some truth to the old joke about an afternoon’s entertainment involving a six-pack of beer and a lawn chair beside the local boat launch. Boat-launch etiquette is one of those common-sense tasks that need to be revisited from time to time. All too often when launching my boat I encounter complete mayhem and carnage. Long lines of boaters are waiting, usually impatiently, for that one person who has lost all reason and courtesy. Tempers get short and it makes for an unpleasant start to your day on the water. I’ve seen trailers parked sideways on the launch ramp; watched people loading coolers, kids and a day’s supplies while tying up launch space; and witnessed a boat dropped onto the concrete ramp by people who were so unnerved by the ongoing chaos that they made critical mistakes. On one occasion I had to perform emergency repairs to two other boats at the dock before I could launch my own boat.
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It does not need to be this way. Launching and retrieving your trailered boat can be both quick and easy if you put some thought into it, before you arrive at your chosen waterway. Develop a basic plan before you leave home: once you decide which boat launch you are going to use, review the layout for parking, preparation areas, and access to the ramp, before you arrive. When preparing to launch my own boat, my wife and I usually pull into a nearby parking lot for some quick pre-launch preparation. We unhook the rear tie-downs, hang the fenders, get the key in the ignition, and load all the coolers and beach supplies ahead of time. We discuss the basic procedures with our guests. We get everything ready to go -- and then we get in line for the boat launch. This way, all we have to do is wait for our turn and launch our boat. We don’t need to focus on anything else. The same applies when retrieving your boat at the end of the day. Drop
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off a crew member at the dock with keys to your truck, and off-load your guests and gear. Complete all nonessential retrieval activities ahead of time, and move away from the ramp and out of the way. Once you see your tow-rig in the lineup, move in to start the retrieval process. Boat launches are for launching and retrieval; they are not a place to loiter and make dinner plans. Another trick to making things go smoother on a busy summer weekend is to practice launching and retrieving your boat during the off-season or on a weekday. This lets your inexperienced crew members get some practice in prepping the boat and backing up on the ramp–without the added stress of an audience. For a pleasasnt overall experience, train your family, friends and crew to be competent, useful assistants. Always be courteous to other boaters. With a little advance planning, and a little practice, boat launches need not be a forum for carnage and comedy.
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Harbour House, Salt Spring Island, BC
Spend a little time on British Columbia’s Salt Spring Island, and certain adjectives will come to mind: words that include “welcoming,” “casual,” “relaxing” and ‘unpretentious.’ Then spend a little time at the island’s Harbour House Hotel, Restaurant and Organic Farm, and the same adjectives will apply. Couple with that great views of Ganges Harbour, an outstanding restaurant that redefines “farm to table,” live music on the weekends, and an almost slavish devotion to sustainability, and there is something about the Harbour House that should appeal to almost anyone. The hotel is located just a pleasant stroll away from the Ganges seaplane dock and marinas, and the activities 72
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and shopping of Ganges Village. You can walk across the road to charter a sailboat or rent a kayak, and if you don’t buy too much at the Saturday Market in Centennial Park, you’ll be able to walk back to the hotel with your purchases. (And burn off some of the calories from the variety of foods that the market’s vendors are offering. Make sure you visit the market during a weekend stay.) Many of the 38 rooms face Ganges Harbour; this traveler had a corner room with a large, sunny balcony that offered views of both unfurled spinnakers, and the farm’s goats and sheep grazing alongside a split-rail fence. Deluxe rooms have covered balconies, fireplaces and jetted tubs.
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By Russ Young
The hotel also has its own yoga studio, offering yoga/wellness packages. In-room spa services are a phone call away. Harbour House is completely non-smoking, and pet-friendly rooms are available. And if you just can’t spend a little time without a wi-fi connection, the hotel’s is complementary, and genuinely does perform at “high speed.” For those who may not be visiting Salt Spring to get away from it all, Harbour House also prides itself on hosting events including conferences, banquets and weddings. The larger of two banquet/meeting spaces can accommodate up to 160 attendees. Every traveler has their preferences and pet peeves, so this traveler gets to point out how Harbour House fared in
addressing three of his: First, the plumbing fixtures do not require an instruction manual, unlike those in an increasing number of hotels; Second – the room key is a real key. Not a plastic card that may take two or three swipes to open the door, but a real metal key; Third – but perhaps foremost – the bed is covered with a real down comforter between two soft cotton sheets. There are no polyester covered, synthetic ”comforters” at the Harbour House! Nestled underneath, I slept for almost 12 hours one night. (The curtains don’t leak light, either – another plus!) Okay, perhaps those are small details, and maybe they only appeal to this particular guest – but feeling comfortable and relaxed in a hotel is often based the little things. The little things extend into the restaurant. They include a server who wants to know how you like your eggs poached – soft, medium or hard? – and a busy bartender who still takes the time to properly chill a martini glass. The Harbour House may reflect Salt Spring’s casual vibe, but that doesn’t mean there is a lack of attention to quality or service. In a world where “locavore” and “farm to table” appear to being adopted as buzzwords, the Harbour House is the real deal. The distance from the farm to the table is measured in yards (or metres), not miles – the 2.5acre organic farm is behind the hotel. (The restaurant and farm deserve their own story. We’ll feature a story about the partnership between chef Brooke Winter and farmer Rob Scheres in our next issue.) The farm is open for tours, and the goats get along well with pintsized guests. And while almost every hotel touts “sustainability” in terms of optional changing of linens and bath towels, the Harbour House takes sustainability seriously – and to the next level. The bathroom amenities are allnatural local products; the cleaning materials and paper products are all
eco-friendly. The coffee and tea are organic. The eggs served in the restaurant are from the farm’s free-range chickens. The beef is grass-fed and, along with the chicken, free range; the seafood is ocean wise. The restaurant and farm both compost, and the waste cooking oil is used to make biofuel. Oh – and the hotel’s website is
powered by solar energy! Perhaps it is just this traveler, but don’t be surprised that after availing yourself of the fine food and drink, casual comfort and friendly vibe, you’re giving serious thought to missing your flight back to Vancouver and extending your stay, or – at least – planning your next visit to the Harbour House.
Harbour House 121 Upper Ganges Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 2S2 250.537.5571 888.799.5571 www.saltspringharbourhouse.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Ship Harbor Inn, Anacortes, WA
Anacortes, Washington is known as the hopping-off point to some of the most beautiful islands in the Salish Sea. It’s the terminus for two of Washington State Ferries’ popular routes, the San Juan Islands and Vancouver Island. But what many travelers don’t realize is that Anacortes is also located on an island -- Fidalgo Island, the eastern-most isle of the San Juan Archipelago. The seaside town was incorporated in 1891, nearly two decades after a general store and post office were established. Today, half of the city’s 15 74
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square miles are comprised of public parks and recreational lands and waters, with 12 miles of shoreline and 67 miles of public trails. In the city’s early days, fishing and logging were its main industries, but today the focus is on on marina and tourism related businesses. Anacortes is also a popular retirement community. The Anacortes Ship Harbor Inn, located just ½ mile from the ferry terminal, opened in 1962. Most recently, it was purchased by Linda and Neal Harvey, and the 30-room inn has been remodeled and upgraded. Now sport-
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By Sue Frause
ing a fresh white coat of paint and bright red roof, the sun-splashed lobby has views out to the Guemes Channel and Cypress Island -- as do most of the inn’s rooms. This is not a cookie-cutter hotel, and accommodations range from a deluxe king fireplace with jetted tub to a cabin suite with kitchen. Many of the rooms are pet-friendly, and amenities include a microwave and refrigerator, free wireless internet and cable TV. Most recently, the Anacortes Ship Harbor Inn has become a wedding venue, with an expansive lawn and deck overlooking the water
and islands beyond. A continental breakfast is included in the room rate and among the morning offerings are fresh fruit and makeyour-own waffles. There’s also a nightly social hour in the cozy lobby, featuring a complimentary glass of wine or beer. The lobby’s espresso bar offers locally roasted coffee from Samish Island, and a variety of snacks and beverages are available for purchase. The friendly staff is happy to help travelers, whether wanting to book a whale watching package or looking for dining suggestions. Two of the more popular restaurants in Historic Downtown Anacortes are located just a block from each other on Commercial Avenue: Adrift and A’Town Bistro. Both are open for lunch and dinner. Don’t miss the Anacortes Museum, housed in a former Carnegie Library and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. And Marine Supply & Hardware is the oldest continuously operated hardware store west of the Mississippi. Outdoor activities include numerous walks and hikes. Washington Park is a city park close to the inn that features a 2.2 mile loop and views of Guemes Channel and Burrows Bay. Further afield is Mt. Erie, Fidalgo Island’s highest point at 1,300 feet, with views to the San Juan Islands, Olympics and Cascades. In addition to whale watching, there are other water-based activities, including half-day or full-day kayak trips with Anacortes Kayak Tours. And yes, you can always make a day trip over to one of the San Juan Islands or Sidney, BC on Vancouver Island -- the inn will even shuttle you to and from the ferry.
Ship Harbor Inn 5316 Ferry Terminal Rd Anacortes, WA 98221 360.293.5177 800.852.8568 www.shipharborinn.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Fairmont Waterfront Hotel, Vancouver, BC
City hotels with rooftop gardens are rare; to discover one with a chefharvested herb garden, honeybee apiary, and views of the city, harbor and mountains is to find a gem. Vancouver’s Fairmont Waterfront offers all this, plus a superb location connected to Stanley Park’s Seawall, Canada Place, the Cruise Ship Terminal and the city’s Convention Centre. It’s also only minutes away from the downtown seaplane terminal. 76
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My husband Laurence and I are sailors with a combined interest in mapping, hidden gardens and the fascinating life of bees. As we entered the marble-floor lobby of the graceful Fairmont Waterfront, we were drawn to a magnificent, larger-than-life chart that hung on the far wall titled “Voyage of Discovery”. Commissioned by local Seattle artists Peggy Vanbanchi and Emily Standley, they describe their work as a visionary map depict-
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By Anne Yeadon-Jones
ing Captain George Vancouver’s third and final voyage to the Pacific Northwest in 1770. We had a few more treats in store that day. After freshening up in our comfortable room that overlooked the third-floor terrace, herb garden and honeybee apiary, we met up with Michael King, the hotel’s “bee butler” -- a soft-spoken man with a wealth of knowledge on the daily rituals and requirements of bees. In keeping with
the hotel’s sustainable management, honeybees were introduced in 2008, providing a symbiotic relationship between the hives and the existing rooftop garden. Mason bees were added and although they don’t create honey, they are zealous pollinators and part of the Fairmont’s collaboration with Hives for Humanity. The sunny, south facing sanctuary creates a unique microclimate favorable to honeybee survival, and the bee garden is designed with a constant supply of fresh running water. To encourage distinctive honey flavors, the surrounding gardens are planted with clover, lemon balm, medicinal thyme and purple-blue Spanish lavender, which is a honeybee’s favorite colour. The bees are so happy here that between May and September the five hives can produce up to 600 pounds of honey, which is used in the kitchen for the ARC Restaurant’s culinary delights; the Fairmont ‘Stinger’ honey lager is crafted in partnership with Whistler Brewing. Committed to fresh, sustainable and local ingredients, Executive Chef Dana Hauser nurtures the 2,100 square-foot roof terrace that accommodates eight individual herb and vegetable gardens sheltered by low boxwood hedges. Under her guidance the harvest this summer and fall will include strawberries, leeks, garlic, rainbow chard, basil, rosemary and thyme – although her newly planted fig trees will have to wait a few years. That evening we enjoyed a view of the harbor and a selection of West Coast fare from the ARC tasting menu, paired with local wines. Chef Hauser is an avid supporter of neighboring farmers who supply her with artisanal cheeses, free-range eggs from happy chickens, and tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers from a local farm using leading-edge environmental practices. The menu also offers in-house smoked dishes; meat and poultry are organic and seafood is “Ocean Wise” approved. Spice rubs, mustards, mari-
nades and dressings are made from scratch, and their delicious ice creams are hand-churned. Laurence and I have lived in Vancouver for 26 years. Discovering the Fairmont Waterfront’s hidden gems was a charming surprise, and we plan to embark on a “voyage of discovery” in our own city as often as possible.
Fairmont Waterfront Hotel 900 Canada Place Way Vancouver, BC V6C 3L5 604.691.1884 604.691.1999 www.fairmont.com/waterfront
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest. If you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
BETSY DAVIS Occupation Executive director, Seattle Center for Wooden Boats Birthplace Seattle, WA
Marty Allard
SHERRY Pottinger
Hometown Seattle Favorite PNW Destination
Lake Quinault, Olympic Peninsula
Vancouver Harbour Flight Center
Occupation Manager for Seair
Seaplanes, Vancouver, BC
Birthplace Vancouver, BC
Birthplace Winnipeg, Manitoba
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Bell Harbor
Hometown I have been living in Vancouver for a year now. I moved over from Victoria in April 2013
Hometown Nanaimo, BC
Occupation General manager,
Favorite PNW Destination
Whistler- Summer or Winter there’s always something fun to do outside
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Haida, Gwaii, BC Favorite Eatery Sushi Village,
Whistler, BC I have a weak spot for the Spicy Agedashi Tofu
Tigh-Na-Mara Resort in Parksville, BC
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Anywhere the fish are biting
Favorite Eatery Rimrock Café in
Whistler, BC
Best Meal My best meal experience
Best Meal Fresh caught salmon on
was a gourmet food tour with Savor Seattle - really enjoyable and a variety of samples.
Favorite Read Just finished reading
crimes
Hobbies Skiing, Fishing when I have
travelling
the BBQ
Shogun. Long but good. time.
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Fishing out of Peregrine Lodge in Hadia Gwaii with my two cousins we caught two big Chinook salmon on the same day. The first was 51lbs, which we released. The second was 61lbs, which we had smoked; that fish made quite a bit of sliced lox.
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Favorite Read Biographies and true Hobbies Golfing, cycling, cooking,
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Catching my first fish near Stuart Island, BC. Although it was only 7 pounds, it was still exciting to reel it in.
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Marina (fish from Pike Place Market)
Favorite Eatery Portage Bay Cafe,
Seattle
Best Meal Breakfast fare … Dungeness Crab Cake Benedict Favorite Read Any mystery by
Dick Francis
Hobbies Reading, walks, bike riding, meals with friends Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
I enjoy bringing my boat to festivals that happen all around the Puget Sound region. Over the 4th of July weekend it’s fun to bring my boat to the Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival. It happens right in the City and there are tons of activities for kids and families, and it’s incredible viewing for the fireworks. Over Father’s Day weekend I like bringing my boat to the rendezvous of classic wooden cruisers held at Bell Harbor Marina on the downtown waterfront. It’s amazing how much character and history each of the boats represents. In September there’s nothing more fun than cruising to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival. The salt water is gorgeous, and the collection of vessels that gathers is truly incredible.
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
PETER Hanke
Kevin Carlton
RUSS YOUNG
Occupation Owner of Puget Sound
Occupation Harbormaster at Roche
Occupation Editor, Harbors Magazine; retired director of Communications, Boeing
Express and Port Commissioner District 3 in Port Townsend,WA
Birthplace Seattle, WA Hometown Port Townsend, WA Favorite PNW Destination Priest Lake, ID
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Winter Harbor, BC Favorite Eatery Mazama Store,
Mazama, WA
Best Meal Breakfast at the Roche
Harbor grill with my wife. We flew in on a beautiful fall day and loved the walk from the airport down to the harbor.
Favorite Read Unbroken Hobbies Flying flying flying. Love to fly my Bonanza as much as I like to fly radio control. Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW Be-
ing anchored at Roche Harbor and having John Wayne hail the boat and come alongside, at 6:00 am, for a tour because he thought she was a beautiful boat. We owned the 65’ schooner Alcyone at the time. He spent an hour our in our galley talking about cruising in the PNW and then invited us for a tour of his boat the Wild Goose. It was a pretty big morning for a twelve year old. Here is a picture of yours truly 1971.
Harbor Marina, San Juan Island, WA
Birthplace Arcadia, CA Hometown Roche Harbor, WA Favorite PNW Destination San Juan Islands
Best Boating & Fishing Destination San Juan Islands Favorite Eatery Haley’s Bar & Grill
Friday Harbor, WA
Best Meal New York steak
Birthplace San Diego, CA Hometown Seattle, WA (Fremont, aka, ”The Center of the Universe”) Favorite PNW Destination
Vancouver – the most cosmopolitan West Coast city
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Salt Spring Island, BC (I miss Marblehead, MA, though)
Favorite Eatery Epulo Bistro
Favorite Read Lone Survivor
Edmonds, WA
Hobbies Boating, coaching softball
Best Meal Dungeness crab, King
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Boating with the family in the San Juan Island, Victoria, Canadian Gulf Islands. I feel completely blessed that I live and work in one of the most beautiful places in the world. For my beautiful wife Colleen and I to be able to raise our children and help raise our grandchildren in Roche Harbor words can’t explain. The long life friendships I have made with Pacific Northwest Boaters have been remarkable. One that stands out was meeting Johnny Carson who came for 2 days aboard his boat the MV Serengeti and stayed for a month and also a chance to meet the General Manager, John Schneider of the Seattle Seahawks. GO HAWKS!
salmon and mussels – oh yeah!
Favorite Read Besides HARBORS Magazine? Anything by Jon Krakauer Hobbies Mountain biking; brushing up on golf, sailing and guitar now that I’m “retired” Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
My first summer of sailing in the San Juan Islands, 1987: bringing a C&C 25 up from Shilshole to Anacortes with two very seasick companions … Dahl’s Porpoises darting under the boat … meeting up with less-adventurous friends at Roche and Friday Harbors … plotting mutiny against our skipper – we thought better of it, since he was a former Navy SEAL … sleeping and dining aboard at Active Cove (Patos Island) … and some unforgettable sunsets.
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HARBORS Seaplane/Floatplane
Passenger Guide Things you need to know...
Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage iin the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isn’t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.
Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.
Knowing how to find and use exits Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up. Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.
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Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.
Passenger Briefing Checklist
Getting out safely! Underwater egress
• Baggage limits
In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.
• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)
1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. DO NOT INFLATE IT until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot swim underwater with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit. 6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise. 7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.
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HARBORS: Pacific Northwest Adventures The Harbors journey brings together travelers and the Northwest! Art, culture, nature and wildlife, fishing, boating, seaplanes, resorts, spas, wine and culinary destinations are just waiting for you to enjoy. See how many you can find in this word seek grid! □ �
ART GALLERY
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ELLIOTT BAY
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OREGON
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CAMPING
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EMERALD ISLE
□
OUTFITTERS
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CARAVAN
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FISH □
PENINSULA
□
CASCADE BAY
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HOUSEBOATS
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COAST
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KAYAKS
□
PHOTOGRAPHY
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CYCLING
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LAKE CHELAN
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RAINFOREST
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DISCOVERY
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OCEAN
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ROCHE HARBOR
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SALMON
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SEA AIR
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SEA LIONS
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SEAPORTS
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SEATTLE
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STRAITS
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TACOMA
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TRAVELERS
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WHALES
T C G P C K F B A P U B N S A
□
WINE
R L H K A Y A K S N E O T E T
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N H R W E L S I D L A R E M E A O H I H B R S T R O P A E S E U M N A A E S E A T T L E N C S U L Y A L S T I A R T S O O E S K A W E E C N O P G E G Y B M R B S V S S F H V N A E R O C H E H A R B O R A I
L R
E A A C D T R L T R L W L
I O
L T M W A K T O U E A I C O A L S P H C R G I H S O N Y N M A A I O S R A C F T N E C S O G O N T A I E V T T L
I H S C
A Y W L F Y R E V O C S I D P Copyright © 2014 PennyDellPuzzles.com
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OCEAN ALEXANDER MARINE YACHT SALES INC. OA
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