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HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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volume 6 issue 2
HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT 3214 45th Ave SW Seattle, WA 98116
E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com
PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS MANAGER George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Biff Burns Sue Frause A.J.Hunt Marianne Scott
Elayne Sun Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Russ Young
PHOTO CREDITS Oak Bay Beach Hotel, pgs. 14-20 Marianne Scott, pgs. 22-27 Pat Awmack, pgs. 28-32 Mark Bergsma, pgs. 36-41 Terry W. Sheely, pgs.46-53 Walter Massey, pgs. 54-57
PSF, pgs.58-61 Richard Duval, pgs. 66-67 Tom Tripp, pg. 69-70 Loden Hotel, pgs. 72-73 Bird Rock Hotel, pgs. 74-75 Colette’s B&B, pgs. 76-77
HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State The Seattle Center for Wooden Boats Mahogany and Merlot, Land, Sea and Air Event HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Northwest Marine Trade Association Northwest Yacht Brokers Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association PUBLISHED BY HARBORS Magazine is printed on recycled paper. © 2015 by All Ports Media Group
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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.
HAR B O R S
Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, I would like to take the opportunity to thank all of our advertisers for their support and participation in HARBORS. Without our advertisers we would not be able to share all the wonderful destination articles that motivate you, our readers, to venture out and explore the Pacific Northwest. We are very excited to be adding Alaska destinations to our content, encouraging adventure travel in the Last Frontier, as well as in Washington and British Columbia. As a small business, HARBORS Magazine depends greatly on the support of our advertisers and subscribers. We are growing and value our relationships with local businesses, regional agencies, seaplane and boating associations, and fish and wildlife groups. These relationships keep us and, as a result, our readers informed about what is happening in our backyard, which is the ultimate adventure destination for many people around the world. The Pacific Northwest is one of the most sought-after destinations in the world of adventure travel. We are very excited to be able to bring attention to unique places that many will read about, and then plan their own adventures to these destinations. One of the reasons we started the Who’s Who section in each issue is to introduce people our readers may meet during their travel, boating and seaplane adventures. They’re the kind of people who would be delighted to meet you and help you make the most of your adventures in Alaska, British Columbia and Washington. We are very proud to have this magazine and are always looking for ways to improve it. We encourage our readers send us feedback about HARBORS Magazine. So send us an email (info@harborsmagazine.com), let us know what you think, and we might even add your comments to our “Notes From Our Readers” page in an upcoming issue. You can subscribe online at www.harborsmagazine.com, and share HARBORS with your friends and family. We think HARBORS is a beautiful gift for anyone who loves the great outdoors, and hope you will agree. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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2015 March/April
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Features Oak Bay Beach Hotel
Luxury, comfort and history
22
Hoonah, Alaska
28
Sea to Sky in Squamish
36
On the Waterfront
46
Wild Alaska Fish-In
54
Walter Massey
A treat for the senses Gondola above Squamish, BC Crane Island, WA
Floatplane fishing day trips
Northwest wildlife artist
(photo by A.J. Hunt)
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2015 Salmon Stamp
Cover Photo: Seattle’s Elliott Bay Marina
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Reflections on Northwest Boating
68
Gear Guide
72
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
78
Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
Pacific Salmon Foundation fundraising tool Photo essay Go-to gear for this summer Vancouver, BC • Friday Harbor, WA • Port Angeles, WA
Meet the faces of HARBORS destinations
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Notes From Our Readers HARBORS Brings Back Memories I was waiting in a doctor’s waiting room yesterday and picked up your magazine, which I’ve never seen before. It was the most recent issue, Jan/ Feb 2015. I was taken by the article and pictures on the tribal houses and totem poles, both saved and new-cut, in Ketchikan. I would love to get a copy of the issue. Please tell me the amount, with postage, and I’ll send a check. I’m a native Seattleite, retired now and living on Vashon Island. I grew up in Seattle, and lived in West Seattle for thirty years before I moved to Vashon. I sailed for many years, in all the Sound races, Swiftsure and the Strait of Georgia. I took the ferry once -- when it still sailed from Seattle -- to Ketchikan and back. None of what you showed was there in my time. And I once did the car version of the trip from Seattle to Tofino and back. My uncle used to own a floatplane and had a house on the island in Friday Harbor. He flew me once across to the Anacortes ferry dock. I don’t know that I’d ever try one of your trips, but it fascinates me to read about them. Cal Kinnear Burton, WA “Sailboat People” Love HARBORS We picked up several copies of your magazine at the Seattle Boat Show -- we were so impressed with the articles and the great pictures. We lived in Puget Sound for most of our lives but recently moved to Oregon. We are mostly sailboat people but love the destinations you write about in this maga-
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zine. We would love to subscribe and have it sent to our home in Portland. Lon and Geri Portland, OR San Juan Airlines Passenger Looking Forward to Alaska Trip I read one of your magazines in my doctor’s office in Bellingham a while back and then saw it again recently on a flight to the San Juan Islands on San Juan Airlines. It is a beautiful magazine. I hope to see more articles on Alaska as we plan to take our boat up to Southeast Alaska next summer. We plan to go to Ketchikan to see those fabulous totems. P. Thompson Bellingham, WA
New Subscribers are Fans of Wildlife Photography Please sign us up for a subscription. We would like to get the magazine to put in our guesthouse on Vancouver Island. Many of our guests come from back east and would love to look at how you represent the Northwest. I especially like the wildlife articles by Bart Rulon. His photography is amazing! Please start our subscription with the current issue with the article about Whistler; we go there every year to play golf. The Petersons North Vancouver, BC
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Oak Bay Beach Hotel By Russ Young
It’s a cold, rainy night on British Columbia’s Oak Bay. My traveling companion and I are alone, bobbing in neck-deep water, looking across the dark waters toward Discovery Island. There are no passing boats, or aircraft overhead, and the distant shoreline is equally devoid of activity. And we couldn’t be much happier.
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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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hat’s because this particular January evening is being spent in one of the three heated mineral pools at Victoria’s iconic Oak Bay Beach Hotel. We have a generously sized hotel umbrella to keep the raindrops out of our hair, and we’re sipping wine from pool-safe plastic glasses. There is a eucalyptus-infused sauna nearby, waiting for us to step out of the outdoor pools, along with showers and the lockers in which we are keeping our plush hotel bathrobes warm and dry. Needless to say, life is pretty good tonight at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. A landmark near the “Millionaire’s Mile” since 1927, the hotel was “deconstructed,” then “upgraded and upscaled” between 2006 and 2012. The results are impressive. It is the only oceanfront hotel in the Victoria area, and it makes maximum use of its spectacular setting and impressive views. It offers a blend of elegance and luxury, balanced with relaxed, casual comforts. Those comforts include the mineral pools – open 24/7, and free of charge – which are adjoined by the Boathouse Spa. Inside you will find a lengthy menu of choices for spa treatments, ranging from a variety of transformative massages to more than two dozen different facial treatments, not to mention hand and foot care. As if the treatments aren’t invigorating enough, all are given in rooms with views of the Pacific Ocean and Mount Baker. If you prefer, the spa services are also available in the privacy of your guestroom or suite.
The “upgraded and upscaled” hotel sits on the site of the original 1927 building. (opposite) The Boathouse Spa, fitness center, sauna and changing rooms are steps away from the mineral pools. The three mineral pools offer views of Oak Bay, Discovery Island and Mount Baker.
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The Grand Lobby reflects the elegance of the original hotel building. During the summer months, the pool deck features a bar and casual dining. However, inside the building you’ll find three choices for food and beverages: The Dining Room, which offers impressive menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner; The Snug, a pub that is a Victoria landmark in its own right; and Kate’s Café, which provides light fare, grab-and-go meals and coffee. The latter is welcoming to people strolling past the building or riding bikes, as well as being a neighborhood coffee shop and gathering place. And naturally, since it is Victoria, you can enjoy your afternoon tea in the glassenclosed conservatory. Twenty-four hour room service? Of course. 18
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The hotel’s longtime pub, The Snug, was one of the city’s first, and as the plans for renovating and reopening the hotel emerged, there was great concern and input from longtime guests and the community about the look and feel of the new pub. Although the impressive ocean view has been enhanced by larger windows, balanced with some of the original décor, there are still some who say they miss the darker, cozier confines of the old Snug. Fortunately, those folks are likely to feel at home at Kate’s Café on the street side of the hotel – it captures the feel of the old pub, from the hotel’s original front doors to the hand-adzed beams, bricks, leadedglass windows and English Manor fur-
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nishings that were recycled from the old building. The hotel staff is understandably proud of the recycling efforts; only about 5 percent of the materials from the original hotel building were relegated to landfills. Back at The Snug, you’ll find a full bar staffed by creative mixmasters, a nice selection of British Columbia craft beers and wines, and all manner of comfort food, from steak and mushroom pie to fish and chips. But here’s a tip: try the sushi. You will be more than pleasantly surprised. Once you’ve satisfied your appetite and/or thirst, you’ve got a plethora of choices: a soak, or swim, in
Each of the 100 guest rooms has a fireplace; many offer ocean views. The numerous decks and patios on the property offer year-round opportunities to enjoy the views and the ocean air. All guestroom baths feature spa-style tubs and showers, dual sinks and heated tile floors. the pools? A spa treatment, or two? Water aerobics, yoga or cycling? Golf at the nearby Victoria Golf Club, or the Uplands Golf Club? A short boat ride to Discovery Island will give you the opportunity to hike around the marine provincial park. In the evening, you can take in a first-run film at the hotel’s weekly movie night, or enjoy the dinner-theater productions at the David Foster Foundation Theatre. Not only are the shows professionally produced – and include a three-course dinner prepared by Executive Chef Rob Budlong, along with wine selections from the sommelier – but a portion of the proceeds go toward the Foundation’s support of Canadian families whose children are awaiting major organ transplants. In addition, the Theatre holds special events throughout the year, including the annual premiere of the Downton Abbey television series and an Academy Awards party, complete with red carpet. Or you can just retreat to the comforts of your room. All of the 100 guestrooms feature oversized soaking tubs, separate rain showers and heatedtile bathroom floors. There are microwaves and refrigerators in all rooms; the suites have stoves and impressively outfitted kitchens. Although the fireplaces are electric, they can be set to generate heat, or only the flickering light of a fire – can you say “romance?” While you’re in your suite, take a moment to appreciate the paintings and prints by notable British Columbia artists, which were selected in The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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partnership with Victoria’s Winchester Galleries. You’ll also find rotating exhibitions of the galleries’ works in the hotel’s Grand Lobby, The Dining Room and The Snug. The list of complimentary amenities is substantial: fast, reliable WiFi; nocharge local telephone calls; free valet parking; the mineral pools; and the adjacent 24-hour fitness studio and sauna. And you won’t be unpleasantly surprised by a “resort fee” sneaking onto your bill; there is no such charge at Oak Bay. Despite all the reasons not to, if you do get the urge to leave the property, there’s a free shuttle service to local destinations. (Oak Bay is only about 4 miles from Victoria’s harbor and city center.) The weekend we stayed at the hotel, the hotel’s Mercedes was in for service and unavailable. A disappointment? Not quite – we were chauffeured to a harborside pub in a RollsRoyce Silver Seraph that was pressed into service. As I said, life is pretty good at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel …
Information: The Oak Bay Beach Hotel has been awarded three 2015 Traveller’s Choice Awards by TripAdvisor: Top 25 Hotels in Canada (#9) Top 25 Luxury Hotels in Canada (#4) Top 25 Hotels for Romance in Canada (#20) Oak Bay Beach Hotel 1175 Beach Drive Victoria, BC V8S 2N2 (800) 668-7758 www.oakbaybeachhotel.com 20
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Hoonah, Alaska
a treat for the senses By Marianne Scott
O
ral traditions reveal that the Huna Tlingit people once lived within Alaska’s Glacier Bay region. They were pushed out when advancing glaciers obliterated their homes during the “Little Ice Age” between 1400 and 1750, and moved to their present location in the 18th century. Today, Hoonah is Alaska’s largest native village, with a population of 800. The town hugs the northeast corner of Port Frederick, an inlet on Chichagof Island, separated from Glacier Bay National Park by Icy Strait. It’s near the top of Alaska’s Panhandle. We’d cruised from Victoria, British Columbia to the port of Hoonah, Alaska on our sailboat, Beyond the Stars, a Hanse 411. On the way in, we passed a well-maintained century-old cannery, now a tourist attraction and museum. The town’s modest homes are painted a wide panorama of color—there are no 5,000 square-foot mansions here. But as one of the locals told me, “this is the genuine Alaska. It’s not cruise-ship glitz. People live in this village and make a life.” Harbor clerk Sherry Mills is helpful to visiting boaters, be they fishermen or yachties, and told me why she returned to Hoonah after living in Washington, DC and Juneau. “I spent many childhood summers in the Aleutian Islands. We did subsistence fishing, hunted deer and collected berries. Then we’d smoke, freeze, can and vacuum-seal those foods, combining traditional food-gathering with modern food-processing. It’s all part of my customs.
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Master carver Gordon Greenwald preparing a screen design with black paint. “While I was away, I missed being on the water. I have lots of family here. If I want to do something and tell someone, soon 15-20 people will participate and we have a very festive occasion. Away, I felt I was missing out and I didn’t want to miss it anymore.” Sherry’s father, George Mills, 71, dropped by later to share a coffee with his daughter. He showed me a photo of himself on his iPhone: a 22-year24
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old paratrooper in uniform. He spent a year in Vietnam, “but before the heavy shooting started.” Despite having lived in various places in the “lower 48,” he returned to Hoonah in 1973. To most of us who live in cities, it may be tough to understand why he’d choose to live in a tiny, rainy, isolated village only accessible by boat and plane. For George, the answer is simple: “It’s home.”
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The Carving Shed The U.S. National Park Service and the Hoonah Indian Association are building a Tlingit tribal house near Glacier Bay’s park headquarters. The embellishments are being prepared in a Hoonah carving center where artists have been working for the past four years. Inside, master carver Gordon Greenwald was outlining the design of a
house screen in black paint. He and two other carvers, Owen James and Herb Sheakley, assisted by trainees, have completed screens and four house posts representing the four Huna clans. The posts and screens were hand-carved and adzed without electrical tools or sandpaper, leaving the cedar surfaces satiny and smooth to the touch. One totem depicts a giant octopus, complete with sculpted suckers, one arm curled around a human. A shark’s backbone is starkly outlined with black paint. A goat’s head, another unusual portrait, graces a pole. In a well-sculpted action scene, four figures shout a warning that a glacier’s ice is tumbling down with deadly force. A round “spirit of a blowhole” honors whales and dolphins. These highly sculpted posts, using only traditional black, red and blue-green decorative paints, tell even more stories than those that portray stylized animal faces. “I haven’t seen an octopus on a totem before,” I said to Gordon. “And I bet you haven’t seen a goat either,” he responded. “Will your people object when your designs go beyond traditional portraits?” “Ah, there are some. But I always remember what one elder told me. ‘We must perpetuate our culture, not preserve it. If we preserve it, it will die.’ I follow that advice.” Gordon Greenwald’s Norwegian grandfather bequeathed him his bright blue eyes and another relative left him his German last name. He trained as a shop teacher but because the school district was small, also taught math, physical education and art. A grey ponytail escapes from the dark-blue bandanna covering his head. His mixed ancestry and northern European physiognomy doesn’t faze him: he’s a Tlingit of the Chookaneidi Eagle Clan. He took up carving in his late twenties. “I had an opportunity to learn,” he said. “I’m retired from teaching and it was important for me to participate in this project.”
Artist Owen James with a tribal house screen, paddle, painted hat and silver nose ring.
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Vintage fishboats in rainy Hoonah Harbor. Eagles dive for herring outside Hoonah’s breakwater. Inside the Icy Strait Cannery . Owen James, like Gordon, retired from his former job as carpenter. Unlike Gordon, 59-year-old Owen looks like he could have crossed the Bering Strait from Asia recently—although his ancestors have been here for millennia. While working, a backwards baseball cap sits atop his dusky face. “As a boy, I used to watch my grandfather carve,” he said, brown eyes sparkling. “I’ve worked on the external and internal panels and posts.” Owen explained the three colors used to decorate the screens and posts. “They’re traditional. In the past, to make the blue-green paint, we’d scrape oxidized copper and mix it with salmon eggs and saliva. For the black, we’d mix the eggs and saliva with charcoal, and we’d add rusted metal scrapings for the red.” He guffawed. “Today, we eat the salmon eggs and buy the paint at the hardware store.” But some traditions persist. “I had a lunch of baked salmon heads at the Salvation Army Church today,” Owen continued with an impish smile on his face. I got the strong impression he was trying to épater les bourgeois. But I didn’t bite. “Salmon heads? What parts are edible?” “Well, the eyes, some meat, and the crunchy part, you know. Kind of like cartilage. It’s really good.” Would I ever be invited to such a luncheon, I wondered afterwards. If so, what would I eat? I’d certainly be pleased to join the lunch but I’d skip the eyes, maybe try the “crunchy part,” and definitely chow down on the meat. Much like visiting Hoonah, such a meal would be genuine, fascinating and memorable. 26
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Getting there: By air to Hoonah: Wings of Alaska 907-789-0790 www.wingsofalaska.com Alaska Seaplanes 907-789-3331 www.flyalaskaseaplanes.com Alaska Marine Highway: www.ferryalaska.com 800-642-0066 www.alaskaferryadventures.com 800-439-5780 For more information: www.visithoonah.com
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Sea to Sky in Squamish By Pat Awmack
F
illed with anticipation, I step off the gondola. The views on the way up have been spectacular, and I can’t wait to stand on the viewing platform and be able to soak in an unobstructed view of the surrounding mountains, Howe Sound and the town of Squamish, British Columbia. I’ve just experienced the area’s newest attraction – the Sea to Sky gondola – and the rave reviews I’ve read are well justified. Situated at the head of Howe Sound (an arm of the Pacific Ocean) and flanked by towering peaks, Squamish was recently named by CNNMoney.com as “the mountain
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town to visit in North America.” The self-proclaimed “Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada” used to be just a pit-stop on the drive along the Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to the ski resort of Whistler, but is working hard to become a destination in its own right. The heritage of the indigenous people – thought to have occupied the land for approximately 5,000 years – is evident throughout the area. Totem poles stand proudly outside some buildings, and all highway signs appear in both English and the language of the Squamish Nation. To gain more insight into the his-
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tory of the Squamish Nation, you should plan to visit the Cheakamus Centre in neighboring Brackendale. The Centre offers a unique cultural programs allowing you to experience life in a traditional Coast Salish bighouse. The programs (half-day or fullday) include a hands-on opportunity to cook a traditional lunch – including making bannock, a welcoming ceremony by local elders, hikes through old-growth cedar forests, traditional arts workshops and more. Initially settled by Europeans as a farming community, the Squamish Valley became famous for growing hops, which were shipped to breweries
throughout the British Empire. In the early 1900s, with easy access to both the ocean and the rail line, forestry became the mainstay of the economy. Large lumber and pulp mills operated within the town. The mills have since closed and tourism has taken over as the town’s economic focus. The Sea to Sky gondola, opened in May 2014, has already surpassed its predicted 200,000 to 300,000 visitors in the first year by more than 30 percent. I waited until after the summer rush to visit and, after purchasing my ticket, walked straight onto the gondola. The ride is a ten-minute glide from sea level to roughly 2,900 feet. With each gondola cabin holding a maximum of eight passengers and boasting floor-to-ceiling windows, as you ascend it’s easy to take in the views of adjacent Shannon Falls and the famed climbing peak, Stawamus Chief. Upon reaching the top, I headed straight for one of the main viewing platforms; the Summit Lodge Viewing Deck is a 5,000 square-foot platform attached to the lodge and cantilevered off the side of the mountain. Although the weather wasn’t really participating the day I was there, the railings were packed with people taking photos of the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain peaks and the Howe Sound fjord below. Gathering all my courage, I crossed the 328-foot Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge which connects the Summit Lodge Viewing Deck to the Spirit Trail Viewing Deck. At the latter I found a series of interpretive posters detailing the history of the Squamish Nation and the importance of the surrounding land to the Stawamus Nation. During the summer, demonstrations are conducted, allowing visitors to learn about the mythology of the First Nations people of the region. Unless you’re deathly afraid of heights, I strongly recommend you walk the suspension bridge – there’s nothing like hanging out over the treetops, The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Squamish Yacht Club marina offers a scenic view of Stawamus Chief. Squamish plays host to one of the largest congregations of wintering bald eagles in North America. hundreds of feet from the ground. The gondola offers easy access to hiking trails, interpretative walks, rock climbing and mountain biking in the summer; winter adventures include snowshoeing or winter walking a network of trails as well as a four-lane tubing park. There is also access to some of the best terrain and deepest snow for those seeking ski touring. However, it’s important to note that this alpine terrain is not for inexperienced ski tourers and that there are no patrols in the area. Leaving the gondola and heading into town I passed the world-famous Stawamus Chief (often referred to as simply “The Chief ”), a 2,300-foot granite monolith which towers over the town. While the Squamish Nation consider it a place of spiritual significance, its main claim to fame – along with other peaks in the area – 30
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is as a world-class rock-climbing destination. Climbers of every skill level are drawn to its rock faces, and if you happen to pass by during the summer months you’ll often see a number of climbers clinging to the side of the rock. After driving through town, I headed out along The Spit: a sliver of land sticking out into Howe Sound, it is the first point of land to be hit by the strong summer winds, creating the ideal location for wind sports. Because I was there in the early fall, all was quiet, but visit between June and September and you can sit on the rocks for hours watching the windsurfers and kite-boarders – who flock there by the dozens – skim across the crystalline waters with their colorful sails and kites. Between the months of November and January, Squamish plays host to one of the largest congregations of wintering bald eagles in North America. The influx of eagles is due to the annual return of spawning salmon to the Squamish River watershed. In an effort to see this phenomenon, I returned to Squamish on a crisp, cold day in late November. Although the majority of birds had yet to arrive, I saw as many as 30 eagles perched in trees and among the rocks along the riverbank. A few were even tearing into fish as I watched. My daughter and I agreed it was worth the trip. We wound up our chilly excursion at the Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Company, a boutique hotel. The brewery recently won a 2014 award as “Best Brewpub in B.C.” With a cozy fire crackling, a glass of the local brew and a piping-hot bowl of cheddar ale soup, we thawed out amid dozens of mountain bikers relaxing after an active day on the trails. In 1888, ore was discovered in nearby Britannia Beach, with a copper/ lead/zinc mine opening in 1904. The mine was in operation for 70 years before closing and falling into disrepair for a number of years. The mine site
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was eventually reopened as a museum and remedial work is continually being done to improve water quality and repair damage created by the mine. Despite my initial hesitation about visiting, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Part of the tour is an underground ride on an actual minetrain. Kids, both young and old, will enjoy trying their luck at panning for gold. Easy access to a multitude of worldclass outdoor activities and a commute of less than an hour to job opportunities in Vancouver have brought an influx of new, young blood to the town, allowing it to complete the transformation from a rough-and-tumble logging town to a vibrant bedroom community. Squamish also has its own municipal airport and water access for floatplanes. It’s well worth a visit if you’re in the area. 32
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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Going to Plan(e) B: Katie and Skip Jansen’s Island Home Crane Island Waterfront Home By Russ Young
Like so many of us who have been in the market for real estate, Katie and Skip Jansen knew exactly what they were looking for: property in the San Juan Islands where they could dock their boat and enjoy some weekends sitting on their waterfront lot. And like so many plans, theirs didn’t quite work out the way they originally thought it might. First, they became the proud owners of that dock and five acres of adjacent property, which included a custombuilt mid-century home and a guest cottage. Oh – and then they bought an airline to help ease the back-andforth travel between their homes in Bellingham, Washington and on Crane Island. If you’re not familiar with Crane Island, welcome to the club. The 200plus acre island sits roughly between the southwestern corner of Orcas Island and the northwestern corner of Shaw Island. Unlike the other two, Crane Island has no ferry service – The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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and no on-island amenties such as stores -- so the handful of permanent residents and their weekend/summer neighbors travel by their boats, or one the five Cessnas operated by Katie and Skip’s company, San Juan Airlines. The Jansen’s waterfront-living story begins with their search for a weekend getaway destination. Avid boaters, they were interested in finding a spot with a good dock, and a minimum of noise, traffic and worries. “We weren’t at all interested in owning a structure,” said Katie. On the lookout for a year, they narrowed their search to two small islands that met their criteria: Crane and Fawn. But once they discovered the fiveacre parcel on Crane with a magnificent southwestern exposure, the 2,700 square-foot main home and the adjacent Panabode cedar guest cottage quickly grew on them. “The ground did feel good under our feet,” Skip said. As a result, it’s been their home-away-from-home for the past ten years. Then there is the airline. The parents of three children, they found that their “weekend getaways” were frequently punctuated with schoolrelated events and activities. So they were often taking advantage of the air-taxi company that serviced Crane Island, Northwest Sky Ferry, accompanying or sending the kids back and forth between Bellingham and the island. (Much like the house, the island’s 1,500-foot grass and gravel runway was not a factor in them choosing Crane. “We didn’t even pay attention to it initially,” said Skip.) They eventually became so reliant upon the air-taxi service that when they became aware the company was for sale, the Jansens bought it. They have since acquired San Juan Airlines and merged the two companies under that name. Their airline does a brisk business flying commuters and building contractors between Bellingham and nine of the San Juan IsThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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lands, as well as serving as a freight contractor for both FedEx and UPS. Katie and Skip were both born and raised in Bellingham. His primary business is still construction and development; she is a former elementary-school teacher. Their three-bedroom, three-bathroom main house looks very contemporary, with its clean lines, enormous windows and unadorned, clear-cedar exterior. That’s why it is so surprising to learn that the house is nearing 50 years old. It was built by the island’s developer, who chose what is now the
Jansen’s property as the best spot for his own home. Inside, the décor is tastefully understated, with a welcoming, wide open and warm feeling. During the cooler months, an ultra-wide fireplace serves as a room divider – Skip had a log-splitter custom made so that the fire can be fed with four-foot lengths of wood. Other than the kitchen, most of the mid-century fixtures remain as a reminder of the home’s vintage. The Jansens haven’t felt the need to change much other than the carpet-
ing since they moved in. But outdoor living is really what makes their Crane Island home so special. The surrounding water is home to sea otters, seals and orcas; the nearby wooded areas host eagles, heron, deer, raccoons, minks and squirrels. The decks outside both houses provide excellent viewing platforms for nature’s cavalcades. Sometimes life turns out to be vastly different than planned. But Katie and Skip Jansen can point to their Crane Island home and assure you that it’s not necessarily a bad thing.
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Catch the Afternoon Floatplane Shuttle to Adventure and Experience a Remote and Salmon-Packed
Wild Alaska Fish-In By Terry W. Sheely
I
finally caught my breath. Less than two hours after the 737-400 from Seattle touched down at Juneau International, I was already in waders and polarized fishing glasses, balancing on the pontoon of a drifting de Havilland Beaver in a remote inlet on Chichagof Island. The pilot was handing out dry bags bulging with gear, the young guide was splashing to the bank with an armload of rod cases and tackle, and we all pretended not to look at the bruiser of a brown bear prowling for salmon just up the beach. A few minutes later I was standing in fresh bear and eagle tracks, fumbling to knot a purple egg-sucking leech onto my line while staring into a gin-clear freshwater stream black with salmon backs. The only other fishermen in sight were the four others who flew with me through the time warp from metro-Juneau to wild Chichagof. My first salmon was a wickedly big silver that ripped into the streamer before the Beaver was off the water for its return to Juneau. Before I could bank the thrashing coho we were alone in a remote, roadless section of the Tongass National Forest with four hours to fish a smokin’ hot salmon stream. The day was a whirlwind of transition, much like stepping through a
A de Havilland Beaver floatplane heading into Southeast Alaska backcountry. time curtain into another world. Less than an hour before, I was enjoying a halibut burger and an amber ale in the Red Dog Saloon in the urban heart of Alaska’s capital and poof! -- then I was standing in a remote, wild world in a stream packed with swirling salmon and flashing Dolly Varden. The only tracks in the sand were ours and the fishing bears’. The new generation of fly-in “fishfit-
ters” make it possible to fish remote, wild Alaska without committing buckets of dollars and most of a week to an isolated lodge. Only better—we don’t have to wait for the fish to come to us, we only land at the hot spots. And this was a hot bite. All five of us were hooked up and scrambling. Our guide, Evan Fritz, was grinning and waiting for someone to work a fish close enough to the bank for
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(above) Go where the only other fishermen wear fur coats.
(opposite) A spawning pink salmon in the hand. You can fish where the only tracks are yours and the bears. Salmon flies – and everything else you need -- are providedby the outfitter. Fireweed is abundant in Alaska from July to September.
him to grab and release. In his day pack were half a dozen boxes of spare barbless flies, extra leaders, weights, bottled waters, upscale snacks and a 12-gauge bear “dissuader” that he’s never had to use. This floatplane warp between rugged wilderness and white-tablecloth niceties is not an everyday, every-city option. It’s a Southeast Alaska specialty available from Juneau, Ketchikan and Gustavus to fish isolated streams on Chichagof and Admiralty Islands, Chilkat Peninsula, lakes and streams in Misty Fjords National Monument and a gushing river that seemed choked with silvers west of Glacier Bay National Park. I understand that fishfitters also operate shuttles seasonally in Sitka, Skagway and Petersburg. The type, quan-
tity and quality of provided tackle and guide service varies with each floatplane service, as will the policies on catch-and-release and bonk-and-eat. Some fishfitters allow anglers to pack home a limit; others a fish or two and some none. Ask in advance. Flight-fishing from a Beaver or Cessna shuttle compresses a lot of wild fishing experiences into a few hours of adventurous excitement, yet still gets you back to your hotel for dinner. On a quick-hit trip to Chichagof we circled a pod of bubble-netting humpback whales, buzzed the landing beach to bump the brown bears back into the brush and caught bright silvers until our arms ached. The highlight, though, was when one of our party -the lady wearing too many diamond rings, with fingernails glistening in
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Eric Michaelson, catching cutthroats on a float shuttle to beautiful Misty Fjords National Monument. layered lacquers and a hairdo that came straight from a salon -- yanked a flopping silver into the grass and mud, screamed when the fly pulled out and belly-flopped across it. With mud on her cheeks, salmon slime on her diamonds and fish ends sticking out on both sides, she giggled like a schoolgirl. Flight-fishing specialists provide everything you need: airport shuttles, floatplanes, guides, licenses, rods, reels, tackle, lures, flies, rain gear, waders andlunch. They provide daily updates on which stream is hot. And they deliver the wilderness flavor, adventure and fast action of high-end lodges at a fraction of the time and cost. Tony Weber is a typical flight-fisher. He’s 75 yards upstream from me, locked into a big chum salmon on a 6-weight fly rod, watching line zing off the spool while shouting encourage50
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ment to his wife Cindy, who’s chasing a streaking something downstream. A Texan, Weber had flown into Juneau on business, and with an afternoon between meetings, booked a four-hour adventure with Bear Creek Outfitters. Picked up at their downtown hotel the Webers were outfitted with Alaska non-resident fishing licenses, waders, boots, all-weather jackets and baseball caps, holding Sage fly rods and Ross reels. Tony asked our guide Evan where we would be fishing. Evan told him they’d decide just before takeoff, after finding out what was hot where. Which species targeted on a floatplane shuttle depends on the time of year fished. Salmon, Dolly Varden, cutthroat, rainbow trout and steelhead are anadromous and catching the incoming runs is critical. A few streams offer steelhead as early as April and May. In June and early July most
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streams offer only trout and Dollies feeding on tiny alevins and salmon fry. But from mid-July into September adult salmon hit the rivers in force. Chums and pinks start showing in July, and by August even the smallest stream is crowded with small but aggressive pinks and non-stop action. From mid-August until snow major runs of big chums and silvers are making memories. The tremendous number of aggressive salmon in these mostly unfished streams makes up for less-than-expert fishing skills. For example, there’s a guy we’ll just call Ryan. Ryan wasn’t a beginner; he hadn’t advanced to that level yet. The first fishing rod he’d ever handled was handed to him by our guide, who demonstrated a basic roll cast. Ryan attempted, but barely managed, to flop the fly a few feet beyond his boots. But on his
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Fly-fishing between shuttles. Morning shuttle to fly-in adventure. Bear Creek Outfitters brought us to fish until our arms ached. (opposite) A typical Misty Fjords National Monument fly-in stream.
second flop he hooked his first fish. My fishing buddy Jim caught one salmon, then another, another and then it was four. “Four casts, four salmon,” he shouted. “If I can do it anybody can!” Back at the beach, waiting on the Beaver from Juneau, we stowed our rods, inhaled cold water and grinned when Evan opened a container of smoked-salmon spread, handed out bagels and energy bars, and asked if we enjoyed our afternoon. Silly question! Hours later I am back in Juneau, showered, dressed and arm-weary from dozens of fish fights. I’m in a restaurant with a piano bar, sitting down to a thick ribeye slathered in portabella wedges, side-dressed with thumb-size prawns. I realize I’m babbling across the table, excitedly describing the afternoon’s shuttle into a wild, remote salmon honey-hole and back again. It’s been that kind of day.
Contacts: Alaska Seaplanes, Juneau: www.flyalaskaseaplanes.com Bear Creek Outfitters, Juneau: www.juneauflyfishing.com Family Air, Ketchikan: www.familyairtours.com
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Walter Massey Northwest Wildlife Artist By Biff Burns
It seems fitting that artist Walter S. Massey was born in a town called Florence – Florence, South Carolina – because the magic of another Florence, where Donatello, Leonardo and Michelangelo spent many productive years, had a profound influence on this Pacific Northwest artist and sculptor. Raised in a rural community by an artistic family, he first took up pencil and brush at a very early age, spending hours at his grandmother’s elbow as she created “floral snapshots” of her garden in oils and acrylics. In his later youth, Massey’s interest turned to more “structural” media in the building of intricate model ships, automobiles and airplanes, and, eventually, in copying historical armor and weaponry. Having lived in various parts of the United States, travel has always been a part of his life. His academic studies and military service took him from the Carolinas, Florida and Georgia, through Texas and California, to the Pacific Northwest where he took up graduate studies at Seattle Pacific University. Massey explains the path he took from there: “A true student of the 1970’s, I spent nearly the entire decade traveling, studying and ‘searching for myself ’ – searching for a vo-
Massey is constantly developing more and better ways to fabricate figures “in the round.” cation by which to make my way in the world and provide for my family. Result: exhaustion. “Thus began a hiatus from my studies in psychology and counseling into the comforting and familiar arms of my avocation – the visual arts. I’ve been there ever since, still traveling, still studying and still doing a little self-searching. Result: a wide range of work – designs fabricated primarily in copper from whimsical garden stakes to architectural enhancements
for garden and home as well as largerthan-life figurative sculpture.” In 1978 he returned to the home where he first began painting with his grandmother and embarked on the task of developing his military training as a welder into a less costly way of producing large metal sculpture and still evoking fine art. He began by working on detailed figures from nature, constantly developing more and better ways to fabricate figures “in the round.”
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Massey’s love of color often leads to adding art patinas as well as silver-washes and translucent dyes. His work led him to the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina where his fabricated, three-dimensional birds of prey became weathervanes that suggested historical reproduction. Other architectural enhancements included lamps, lanterns, chandeliers and wrought-iron gates, decorative fireplace doors and other accents. “In search of a more versatile medium, I shifted emphasis from metal casting to fabricating copper in the late 1970s. On moving to Washington state nearly twenty years later, I began exploring and creating images of Pacific salmon. I am gratified by the reception this work has received and constantly search for more ways to illustrate salmon,” said Massey. “More recently I began a new process of producing my individual natural 56
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copper and red salmon, in a new portrait style. I wanted to do something new that would show off the beauty of the metal itself. Since then, the newer styled salmon, together with other wildlife images, remain a major emphasis of celebrating the versatility in copper.” Copper is an “agreeable metal.” It yields to the artist’s hand, while still retaining its own character and delivering delightful and unexpected additions to each piece. Much of the color that appears on the copper is induced by torch flame. Massey’s love of color often leads to adding art patinas as well as silver-washes and translucent dyes. These images are literally carved into shape, hand-forged and hammered, incorporating the principles of repousse’ with other fabrication techniques
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Massey has developed. You will see the same image repeated, in multiple pieces, but no two are exactly alike. It is the copper itself that makes the difference, providing a versatility of application that appears to be endless. Massey currently lives in Port Townsend, Washington, where, assisted primarily by his three apprentice sons, he has continued to expand his skills to larger and more varied pieces of architectural art for homes and gardens. His work has been shown in various art centers, galleries and shops on both coasts of the United States. Pieces are owned and displayed by private collectors in 23 states and four countries; others are on public display in Washington, Oregon, Connecticut, West Virginia, Texas, Florida and the Carolinas.
Copper Workshops: Walter Massey’s passion for his craft is expressed in desire to share his talents and artistry with students wishing to learn the craft of metalwork. He offers classes at his home studio just outside Port Townsend, WA. Massey offers a set of “The Joy of Copper” classes, including workshops on hand-forged copper bowls, jewelry, candle holders, wall hangings and frames. Those interested in taking one of his classes can contact him at: Massey Copper 360-344-3611 120 Fredericks Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.masseycopper.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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2015 Salmon Stamp By Elayne Sun
T Artist April White with Pacific Salmon Foundation CEO Brian Riddell. The Salmon Conservation Stamp is required to be purchased by all anglers who wish to keep Pacific salmon caught in BC saltwater.
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his fishing season, anglers can expect a new look for their Canadian Salmon Conservation Stamps, because for the first time in 25 years a First Nations artist has won the honor of having her image displayed. Haida Nation artist April White - Sgaana Jaad won the annual art competition with her acrylic painting “Salmon Tale,” an image inspired by a traditional First Nations story about Raven. “Salmon Tale is a formline painting, in the red and black colors of my ancestral traditions,” said White. “It captures how Raven came to bring salmon to human beings and why they continue to spawn in coastal streams and rivers. In the story, Raven takes the son
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of the salmon chief to present to the daughter of the humans’ chief. Raven advises the Shaman, ‘Many salmon will try to rescue this young salmon. You must weave a huge net to catch all the fish.’ Which they did, but out of respect many were spared, and these fish swam off to continue their futile search of the forest streams. While grieving, they spawned in the shallows beneath the sheltering arms of a cedar tree.” In the tale, the salmon return to continue their search and the humans are thankful for their return. But the underlying message is one of conservation. The humans catch only what they need to feed the village, and the rest are left to ensure the lifecycle con-
Breaking ground for the new Mossom Creek Hatchery, being built with the aid of $100,000 in Salmon Stamp funding. Salmon Stamp funds helped restore a dried-up channel of the Indian River in Squamish in partnership with the TsleilWaututh First Nations. Michael Meneer, VP, Marketing, Communications and Development, Pacific Salmon Foundation shows his daughter a new connecting channel funded by the Salmon Conservation Stamp funds, through the Pacific Salmon Foundation.
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(top and bottom) Imagses of salmon in healthy habitats by Barrie Kovish. In late 2013, Mossom Creek hatchery tragically burned down. A new hatchery is being built with the aid of $100,000 in Salmon Stamp funds. tinues. “The message to people is to respect the rivers that flow from the land to the undersea world,” said White. The message is fitting for the conservation-inspired decal. The decal was first created through a partnership with founders of the Pacific Salmon Foundation and the federal government as a mechanism to connect anglers with supporting salmon restoration and enhancement. Since the first stamp came out in 1989, $7.75 million of salmon stamp revenue has been directed to more than 2,000 community conservation projects. The funds are collected by Fisheries and Oceans Canada, which has purview over saltwater fishing licenses. This year, in partnership with Fisheries and Oceans Canada, the Foundation announced $1.5 million in grants to 121 projects in 72 communities across British Columbia. The total value of these projects including volunteer time and in-kind donations was $9.1 million in 2014. Studying and appreciating the natural world has been a common theme through all aspects of White’s life, be it cultural, professional or educational. Born on Haida Gwaii, White is of the Yahgu’jaanaas Raven Clan and draws inspiration from her heritage when interpreting the natural and mythological world through her art. She is also a relative of the late Bill Reid, a famous contemporary Haida sculptor, carver, printmaker and jewelry designer. But, before becoming a full-time artist, White received her Bachelor of Science degree from UBC and worked as a field geologist. Immersed in the environment, translating three-dimension60
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al visions into two via mapmaking, and rendering the natural world honed her inherent artistic inclination. This was the fifth entry in the annual art contest for White, who lives in Powell River and in Masset on Haida Gwaii. “In a tired moment at the end of the summer bed & breakfast/ studio-gallery season, I briefly entertained the thought that I wouldn’t enter the contest again this year. But I found renewed energy with my resolve to continue entering until First Nations art was featured on the salmon stamp,” said White. “I am a food fisher and salmon are, from time immemorial to present, integral to the First Nations of the Pacific coast - spiritually, culturally, and for sustenance. We are ‘salmon people.’” The Pacific Salmon Foundation is happy that White persevered. “We’re thrilled that for the first time a First Nations representation of Pacific salmon will appear on the salmon stamp,” said Dr. Brian Riddell, president and CEO, Pacific Salmon Foundation. “More than 200,000 people buy the salmon stamp each year and we know that the artwork on the stamp is a meaningful representation of the significance of Pacific salmon in British Columbia to all anglers. It’s particularly gratifying that April White, a long-time friend and supporter of the Pacific Salmon Foundation, has won this historic honor.”
To Purchase: Signed prints of ‘Salmon Tale’ will be available for purchase in June through the Pacific Salmon Foundation’s online store at: www.psf.ca/support/ order-prints
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Go-to Gear for this Summer
By Tom Tripp
As the lengthening daylight begins to brighten our dinner hours and we start making plans for summer excursions, we thought you might want to take a look at a few pieces of gear to bring along that could make a difference in safety, convenience or just pure entertainment.
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A Personal Locator Beacon Rescue technology has come a long way in the past several years and it’s going to get even better in the very near term with more low-orbit satellites in the system and smaller, less expensive beacons available for personal use. This summer, consider taking along a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) with you out on the water, or hiking in the wilderness. A good example is the ResQLink+ from ACR Electronics. It has a built-in GPS and a flip-up antenna, and it floats. If you find yourself in a life-or-limb-threatening emergency far from help, activate this PLB and a signal with your GPS location will go via satellite to rescue forces in your area. Cost is about $270. www.acrartex.com
An Inexpensive High-Tech Fishfinder for Your Small Boat While the scenery above the Salish Sea is magnificent, your interests as an explorer or angler may be more focused on the undersea picture. The new Elite-3x DSI color fishfinder from Lowrance will give you photo-like images of underwater structure and features, as well as finding the fish. It can switch between 455 kHz and 800 kHz and its special transducer will track the bottom at speeds up to 55 mph. It’s a perfect fit for any small boat. Cost is $129. www.lowrance.com
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The Latest in Sunglasses Fashion Everybody knows Seattle is the sunglasses capital of the U.S., right? That’s because an unusual number of pairs get misplaced between sunny days. Anyway, this might be the pair to take with you when you get out on the water (and then accidentally leave them there). A recent new line from Ocean Racing gives you some high-quality polarized specs at surprisingly reasonable prices. The latest is the Waypoint line, with a classic look in hightech materials. The lenses are impact-resistant, and feature broad-spectrum UV protection and saltwaterproof mirror and hydrophobic coatings. Several other styles are available. All are $59.95. www.oceanracing.com.
Upgrade the Tunes With Some Fusion Sound
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Someday you may be cruising through the San Juan Islands and look off to the east toward Mt. Baker … and suddenly need to hear “Climb Every Mountain.” Or, perhaps you’ll be watching the aircraft carrier USS Nimitz departing from Bremerton and crave the soundtrack from “Top Gun.” So consider investing in one of the brand-new stereo systems from FUSION. The 650 and 750 series are designed to take the harsh marine environment while providing the best possible sound and features. They offer multiple audio zones, the ability to handle nearly every audio format, and are controllable via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi (750 only) or from any NMEA 2000 networked device. Both units are available in a UNI-Dock configuration that will hold, charge and play from your smartphone. They’ll be available in March with MSRPs that range from $550 to $799, depending on unit and configuration. www.fusionentertainment.com.
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating Loden Hotel, Vancouver, BC
Have you ever found a place so special you wish it could remain a secret, undiscovered by the rest of the world? That’s how I feel about the Loden Hotel, a haven of peace and quiet located in the heart of downtown Vancouver. However, it appears – based on the number of awards it’s won – that the world has already discovered this European-styled boutique hotel. Its most recent accolade is the Condé Nast Traveler 2014 Readers’ Choice Award for Best Hotel in Western Canada, making it the country’s only hotel to make the list of Top 100 Hotels and Resorts in the World. Enter the massive wooden doors and you’re embraced by the hush of the peaceful lobby, with its combination of textures, marble fireplace, squashy cushions, wood paneling, tile floor, textured mirrors and warm hues. You 72
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won’t find a loud party atmosphere at this hotel; management has deliberately aimed for a relaxed atmosphere, where people can escape to sleep after a busy day of meetings or a night on the town. Amacon, Vancouver-based residential development company, developed the Loden as the “crown jewel” of their collection. When discussing the décor, Director of Sales Daniel Tennant, said, “Not being a part of a franchise, we can deviate; we can kind of do whatever we want.” My room, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, was a mingling of Old World charm and modern-day amenities. The coral-pink wingback chair, modern lamps, teak workstation, 42” flat-screen TV and huge bed surprisingly created a harmony of sorts, despite the diverging elements. The win-
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By Pat Awmack
dow-walls, which actually open, shed heaps of natural light on the room. Additional, welcome touches included sizzling-fast Wi-Fi, a bedside carafe of water and the reusable shopping bag in my room – a great idea; who thinks to take one along when they travel? Other “green” features include low-wattage LED lighting and an electric car plug-in in the hotel parkade. All 77 guestrooms face west, and while views depend on the floor you’re on, the higher levels enjoy vistas of the nearby marina, the Vancouver Rowing Club and Stanley Park, minutes away and easily accessible via Vancouver’s seawall. The second floor is considered its peaceful sanctuary. Guests on this floor stay in Garden Terrace guestrooms, with step-out terraces overlooking a reflection pond and an
urban garden. Down the hall is the Spa Suite and its infra-red sauna, and the adjoining Befit Fitness Studio. For a hotel of this size, the gym seemed extremely well equipped (not that I had time to use it.) The 3,000 square-foot, two-bedroom Halo Penthouse Suite offers a huge wraparound deck and occupies the entire top floor. It can be configured for a residential stay or as a venue for an intimate wedding or other event. The view from the deck is stunning. Immediately outside the front door is one of Vancouver’s designated bike lanes; during the summer, enjoy complimentary use of the hotel’s 12 cruiser bicycles. The best way to see the city is from a bike; the time limit of three hours is plenty of time to ride around the entirety of Stanley Park. Located on a one-way, tree-lined street in Coal Harbour, the hotel is a three-minute walk from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre Seaplane Terminal, close to the financial district and five minutes from the high-end shops on Alberni and Robson streets. If you’d rather travel to your destination in style, reserve the private car service – it’s an authentic London cab. The roomy car seats five and offers plenty of room for luggage for those bound for the downtown terminus of the Canada Line metro to the airport. Another highlight of my stay was dinner at the adjoining Tableau Bar Bistro, a separately run entity with its own branding. This French bistro was created to serve both hotel guests and residents of the surrounding neighborhood. Its casual atmosphere is comfortable as is the menu, making it an ideal spot to chill after a long day. In the summer the front wall opens to the outside patio, where patrons sip cocktails and indulge in such fare as French onion soup, mushrooms on toast or steak frites. My tuna tartare was amazing, as was my daughter’s lemon ricotta ravioli: puffy pillows of freshly made pasta which melted
in our mouths. If you’re looking for a wine pairing with your meal, ask Restaurant Manager and Sommelier Alain Canuel, to choose for you; he was spot-on in our wine selections. It’s clear that the standards of service are high, and both the hotel and restaurant rise to the challenge.
Loden Hotel 1177 Melville Street Vancouver, BC V6E 0A3 877-225-6336 www.theloden.com
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Bird Rock Hotel, Friday Harbor, WA
Take a deep breath of the fresh sea air and shed the hectic city pace— because you are now on island time. For a memorable getaway in the heart of the San Juan Island town of Friday Harbor, there’s no more convenient place to stay than the Bird Rock Hotel, where owner/manager Laura Saccio offers plush, classic hospitality in a retro-contemporary setting. The Bird Rock Hotel is a combination of a historic old-island structure and a clean, modern urban remodel. The authentic, original hotel exterior shelters a stylish contemporary decor ranging from simple, European-style sleeping rooms to deluxe, harborview suites. Earth tones with subtle beach-house highlights reflect the ecology of the island. It all combines to ensure a peaceful respite from ac74
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tive days spent hiking, paddling and exploring San Juan Island. Features such as custom beds with organic fair-trade linens, iPoddocking radios, flat-panel satellite high-definition TV, and complimentary WiFi provide all the comforts of home for guests who enjoy lounging in their rooms. For the more adventurous there are beach-cruiser bikes for exploring the island, along with access to an off-site heated indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna and fitness studio. Each of the 15 rooms and suites at Bird Rock is unique, allowing guests to select the features that satisfy their individual island-getaway style. Depending on the room, amenities may include king or queen beds, oversized whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces, harbor views and private patios. A gourmet
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By A.J. Hunt
continental breakfast is included in the rate. Evening room service from the island’s iconic Backdoor Kitchen Restaurant, widely considered one of Friday Harbor’s finest, is available on request. Downtown Friday Harbor features a variety of choices for dining and entertainment, including wine bars and brew pubs; burgers; seafood; Chinese, Mexican, Greek, and Thai cuisine; and specialty coffee shops with homemade desserts. If the weather isn’t cooperating, you can always catch a first-run movie at the local theater, a performance at the San Juan Community Theatre, and/or visit the new San Juan Islands Museum of Art. Friday Harbor is accessible by seaplane from Seattle and Vancouver, BC, and serviced by the Washington
State Ferry system. Once you arrive, there is really no need for a car as virtually everything is within walking distance of the hotel. (If you want to venture out of town for a quick jaunt to San Juan Vineyards for wine tasting or the Duck Soup Inn for dinner, the taxi fare is minimal.) Ideal for taking in Friday Harbor and the local scene, the Bird Rock Hotel is a convenient destination perfect for some San Juan Island flavor and fun.
Bird Rock Hotel 35 First Street Friday Harbor, WA 98250 800-352-2632 www.birdrockhotel.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Colette’s B&B, Port Angeles, WA
By Sue Frause
Colette’s Bed & Breakfast, located 10 miles east of the town of Port Angeles, is a lovely, romantic getaway on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Spread out over ten acres, the fiveguestroom B&B perches on a high bank overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Unobstructed views of Mt. Baker, the San Juan Islands, and Victoria, British Columbia mark the horizons. Colette’s is an ideal vantage point for exploring nearby Olympic National Park or touring the nine wineries that comprise the Olympic Peninsula Wineries. There are also several 18-hole golf courses nearby—and the Sequim-Port Angeles 76
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area boasts 290 days of sunshine. (Thus the reason it is referred to as the state’s “Banana Belt.”) For fans of “Twilight,” the Olympic Peninsula is the setting for the popular series of vampire books and films. Self-guided tour maps -- including some of the locations featured in the novels and movies -- of Port Angeles, Forks and First Beach at La Push are available. The five suites at Colette’s (Spruce, Cedar, Iris, Lavender and Azalea) feature king beds and fireplaces, plus oversized, jetted tubs for two and plush robes. Other amenities include fine linens, comfy beds, TV/DVD/ stereo and complimentary WiFi. Cedars and other evergreens tower over lush gardens featuring stone patios and an outdoor fireplace on the main patio. The gardens have been artistically groomed and manicured for more than five decades, and flagstone pathways wend their way throughout the property. Benches and a courtyard pool invite you to pause and reflect in the meditation garden. Breakfasts at Colette’s are bountiful events. Menu items range from Northwest Eggs Benedict (with smoked wild salmon and rosemaryinfused Hollandaise) to a hashed Dungeness crab featuring fresh vegetables, crab and garlic-dijon aioli. Or you can enjoy unique twists on traditional breakfast items, such as walnut buttermilk pancakes with sautéed apple rings and apple cider syrup, or Belgian waffles with berries and lavender-infused maple syrup Complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres are offered in the Great Room prior to going out for dinner (Bella Italia and Michael’s Seafood & Steakhouse are two excellent choices). A 40-foot wall of windows brings the outdoors in, and it’s a great spot to cozy up with a book by the stone fireplace. If you left your book at home, there are plenty of good reads to borrow, along with a wide selection of movies and music.
Throughout the day, complimentary soft drinks and other beverages are available, along with yummy homemade cookies and other treats. As day winds down, the lights of Victoria glimmer across the strait as ships quietly pass by.
Colette’s Bed & Breakfast 339 Finn Hall Road Port Angeles, WA 98362 877-457-9777 www.colettes.com
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest. If you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
Boris Popov Occupation Owner of Andersen Island Fishing Lodge - Cordova, AK Birthplace Munich, Germany
Robin Blanchard Occupation Oiler with the
Washington State Ferries on the Kennewick in Port Townsend, WA
Birthplace Bellingham, WA Hometown Port Townsend Best Boating & Fishing Destination La Push, WA and Port Townsend
Favorite Eatery Mediterranean
Kitchen
Best Meal Dungeness crab feast Favorite Read History books about
the Puget Sound
Hobbies Fishing, crabbing, clamming,
restoring boats and rod building.
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
I was trolling at Hanford Reach on the Columbia River about 20 years ago. I looked back and saw my pole bent over, with line rolling off slow and steady. I couldn’t run down river with the fish for fear of running my boat onto the rocks. I applied pressure to the reel, then the Chinook jumped out of the water, snapped the line and was gone. He was twice as long and fat as any 30-pounder I have caught; I believe he was 60-plus. I was happy just to see him, because it keeps alive the dream of a big Chinook.
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Katie Jansen
Hometown Stillwater, MN Best Boating & Fishing Destination Cordova and Abacos,
Occupation Co-owner of San Juan
The Bahamas
Birthplace Bellingham, WA
Favorite Eatery Any sushi bar … outside the Midwest …
Hometown Bellingham
Best Meal Self-picked mussels and
Airlines
Favorite PNW Destination
razor clams, and baked rough grouse
San Juan Islands
Favorite Read My granddaughter’s birth announcement
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Desolation Sound, BC
Hobbies Flying, tennis
Favorite Eatery
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Wild Ginger – Seattle
Best Meal Raw oysters right off the beach
Favorite Read The Phantom Tollbooth by Norton Juster Hobbies Boating, skiing, cooking Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Staying at Campbell’s Resort on Stuart Island, BC -- and catching a 50-pound white king near Bute Inlet on my birthday!!
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While trolling at 30 feet near Cordova, my port-side downrigger started bouncing. I thought we had hit a reef, but my wife, at the helm, said the depth finder showed 120 feet. I looked down and saw a 400+ pound salmon shark with my downrigger ball in its mouth. We were about to lose the downrigger, the railing system and everything attached to it. As I reached to cut the cable, the shark spit out the ball. But then the starboard downrigger began bouncing. We had hooked a winter king, so I grabbed the rod, set the hook, and all hell broke loose, as the same shark or another grabbed the salmon and took off. The line snapped, and as I was retrieving the flasher, a gaping-toothed maw surged against the transom, just like in “Jaws.” I stumbled backward, screaming. My wife stepped out into the cockpit, and got very quiet, as we counted 11 shark fins circling the boat. I began to rig up for sharks. She rigged up for getting the hell out of there. She won …
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
Carl Ramseth
Anna Frederick
David Sullivan
Occupation General manager, Alaska Seaplanes
Occupation Account executive at HARBORS Magazine
Occupation General manager, Alaska Seaplanes Cedarbrook Lodge, Seattle
Birthplace Silver Spring, MD
Birthplace Juneau, AK
Birthplace Silver Spring, Vancouver, BCMaryland
Hometown Juneau, AK
Hometown Juneau
Hometown Juneau, Issaquah,Alaska WA
Favorite PNW Destination
Favorite PNW Destination
Favorite PNW Destination
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Elfin Cove, AK
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Elfin Cove, AK
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Elfin Cove, Alaska Twenty miles off the
Favorite Eatery
Favorite Eatery
Favorite Eatery middle of the Pacific Ocean
Best Meal Prawns oreganata from
Best Meal Blackened-salmon Caesar
Favorite Eatery Best Meal Prawns oreganata from I like relaxed environments. Two of my
Hoonah, AK
The Island Pub – Douglas, AK the Fiddlehead Cookbook – Juneau
Favorite Read Little Britches series
Seattle
The Rookery Cafe, Juneau salad
Favorite Read Into the Wild by Jon
by Ralph Moody
Krakauer
Hobbies Fishing, hunting, new experiences with family
Hobbies Fishing, running, painting, camping and cooking
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Fishing from a 16-foot skiff with family in 1990. We were trolling where Icy Strait, Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal meet, about 15 miles as the crow flies from where we launched at Auke Bay … but a two-hour, 30-mile trek on the water. Everything was spectacular: glassy calm water, 70 degrees and the bite was on. I think we caught four kings in the 40+ pound range and mixed in a dozen nice silvers. I was concerned about the weight on our boat. Bubble-feeding humpbacks, porpoise and some orcas on the way home – what a day!
My most memorable experience on the waters of Alaska was when I was about eight years old. My parents had a racing sailboat named Satisfaction and the mainsail, full of Southeast Alaskan winds, had the Rolling Stones’ emblem. My cousin, one year my junior, and I dipped our toes off the front bow into the Gastineau Channel. She sat starboard and I was on the port side. A sunny day in Juneau is a once-in-a-lifetime experience; there was music in the air, snow-topped mountains all around and the beautiful Mendenhall Glacier in a real-life post card. The other most memorable? My wedding, on Seattle’s Lake Union!
Hoonah, Alaska Semiahmoo Resort, Golf & Spa
west coast of Vancouver Island, in the
The Island Pub – Douglas, Alaska
the Fiddlehead – Juneau, favorites are VJ’sCookbook in Vancouver and the Alaska Brave Horse Tavern in Seattle
Favorite Read Little Britches series Best Meal Hands down the fiveby Ralph Moody course tasting menu with wine pairings at Copperleaf Restaurant Hobbies Fishing, hunting, new experiences with family Favorite Read Boys in the Boat by Daniel James Brown Most memorable experience on the waters ofand therunning PNW Hobbies Cycling
Fishing from a 16-foot skiff with family in 1990. We were trolling where Most memorable experience Icy Chatham Lynn onStrait, the waters ofStrait the and PNW Canal meet, about 15 miles It was an August fishing trip as offthe thecrow flies we launched Auke westfrom coast where of Vancouver Island.atMy Bay but a and two-hour, mile trek on two … brothers I spent30 four days the water.theEverything spectacular: enjoying best of thewas Pacific Northglassy calm water, 70Port degrees and BC the west. Camping near Alberni, bite was on. but I think four was magical, thatwe wascaught just where kings in the 40+and pound range each day began ended. Ourand days mixed dozen silvers. was startedin at a4:00 am.nice After layingIcrab concerned and shrimpabout traps,the we weight headed on 20 our miles boat. Bubble feeding offshore. We shared thehumpbacks, open ocean porpoise some orcas on the way only withand cruise ships, freighters and home – what aorca day!pod. The fishing was the occasional intense, the photos incredible and the memories forever lasting. But the best part? The salmon, halibut, cod, crab and shrimp we devoured each night by the fire. As I was reminded daily, “Work is for people who don’t know how to fish!”
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HARBORS Seaplane/Floatplane
Passenger Guide Things you need to know...
Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage in the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isn’t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.
Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.
Knowing how to find and use exits Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up. Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.
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Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.
Passenger Briefing Checklist
Getting out safely! Underwater egress
• Baggage limits
In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.
• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)
1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. Do not inflate it until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot exit the aircraft with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit. 6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise. 7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.
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Solution on page 71
H A R B O R S CROSSWORD PUZZLE
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C-30
R-31 Command Bridge R-21EC
R-25SC
R-29
C-30 Command Bridge R-27
C-30 Sport Top
C-26 C-28
T
he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow and stern thrusters for effortless handling, coupled with fuel-efficient diesel power to bring even remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. Our boats are designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have emerged as leading builders of family cruisers, and the favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide. Check out our family of owners at Tugnuts.com.
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