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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, Although winter’s rain, snow and ice have often left us inclined to stay on the couch and close to the fireplace, we’ve been busy the last few months attending boat and aviation shows, and exploring new destinations for the upcoming Pacific Northwest travel season. As always, we want to share with you the places and people we’ve met along the way. And because we discover so many great lodges for fishing, wildlife and spa retreats, we have created a service for planning company-incentive trips, called “HARBORS Adventures.” If you’ve ever thought about putting together such a trip for you and your employees or friends, but thought it was either too challenging, or too expensive, see page 78 to learn more about HARBORS Adventures. Spring is upon us and we have some great destinations in this issue for you to explore. North Island Marina, in Port McNeill, BC is a favorite of many boaters. We will also take you on an adventure to Alaska with Ward Air seaplanes and Bear Creek Outfitters. We look back in history at the origins of the Grumman Goose seaplane and bring you up to date on British Columbia’s craft-brewing scene. If you’re interested in waterfront living—whether it be for an investment or second home—check out our On the Waterfront section for inspiration and opportunities. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels and enjoy the journey!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
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HARBORS RBORS Calling all Captains, Pilots and Adventure Enthusiasts…. we appreciate your support and look forward to bringing you more and more exciting boating and seaplane destinations.
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2016 March/April
Features
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North Island Marina
22
Deep into the Wilderness & Back in Time for Dinner
30
Craft Beer Revolution
36
HARBORS Happenings
38
Travel Maps
44
On the Waterfront
56
The Legendary Grumman Goose
68
Gear Guide
72
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
Port McNeill, BC
Ward Air and Bear Creek Outfitters Sip and Savor BC’s Best Beers
Faces of the 2016 Seattle Boat Show Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways Camano Island, WA A Flying Icon
(photo by AJ Hunt)
Cover Photo: A Grumman Goose docking in Northern British Columbia.
Take a Look Under Your Boat Tacoma, WA • Vancouver, BC • Bellingham, WA
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North Island Marina by Deane Hislop
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A
t the eastern entrance to British Columbia’s Broughton Strait, tucked south of Ledge Point on Vancouver Island’s northeastern shoreline, lies the small bustling community of Port McNeill, also known as “The Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago.” With its marinas and nearby amenities, this port has plenty to offer boaters. Port McNeill is also a popular location to hole up and wait for a favorable weather window for crossing Queen Charlotte Strait when cruising north to BC’s Great Bear Rain Forest and on to Alaska, or rounding Cape Scott when circumnavigating Vancouver Island. The harbor breakwater provides additional protection from easterly winds. Port McNeill Boat Harbour offers three diverse moorage facilities – the Federal Docks accommodate the commercial fleet, while the Port McNeill Harbour marina provides local and transient moorage.
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Our preference is the third: the family owned and operated North Island Marina. From the first time we visited Port McNeill, Arlene and I fell in love with the facility and the Jackman family, who offer 2,100 feet of year-round moorage on sturdy docks capable of hosting yachts to 285 feet. They also offer diesel, gas, Avgas, jet fuel, inberth fueling, 30-, 50- and 100- (single and three-phase) amp power, water, a laundromat, concierge service, a courtesy car, propane, garbage and recycling, and Wi-Fi. Reservations are highly recommended during the summer months. During that first visit, we had been cruising the Broughton Island area for a couple weeks and we needed a fullservice marina, which also provided us with opportunities to provision, stretch our sea legs and enjoy a meal or two. Since then, we have returned many times. Founded in 1986 as the “Port McNeill Fuel Dock & Marina” as the harbor’s first and only marine-fuel facility, the Jackman’s business has grown to what it is today: the North Island Marina. According to Steve Jackman, the energetic and accommodating general manager, the name change a few years ago was to reduce confusion between the two marinas and better represent that the marina was more than just a fuel dock. The name may have changed but the marina’s motto has not: “What can we do to make your stay more convenient and comfortable?” Visitors will discover a 40- by 40foot activity float that serves as a gathering place at the end of the day to trade stories and information, according to Steve’s wife Jessica. The Jackmans also host events such as art shows, live music and barbeques on the float through the summer. Should you need to return home to take care of business or rendezvous with new crew members, family or friends, North Island Marina is a yearround terminal for Pacific Coastal
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Airlines, and is serviced by Kenmore Air and Northwest Seaplanes from June through early September. Also, the marina staff will be happy to provide shuttle service to Port Hardy Airport and care for your vessel while you’re away. The area was first settled by the Kwakiutl First Nation people who hunted and lived off the abundance of area sea life. Port McNeill was named for William McNeill, who arrived in 1825. He was known for being the skipper of the Hudson’s Bay Co. ship S.S. Beaver, the first steam-powered vessel on the West Coast. Today, Port McNeill (population 2,700) serves as a hub for northern Vancouver Island and the islands of the Broughton Archipelago. Though the town radiates out from the harbor, 18
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seemingly with no center, its sense of community runs large and deep. It’s a vital, friendly place with the motto, “If I can’t help you, I know three people who can.” The town is perched on an escarpment overlooking the boat harbor, with all the amenities of a small seaside village. A stroll along the seawall for photo opportunities such as a scenic view of the Coastal Mountains, a colorful orca jumping skyward in the park or a 1938 “steam donkey” that was once used in a logging operation. Up in town, only a five-minute walk away, visitors will discover a hospital, clinic, post office, drugstore, liquor store, marine supplies and fishingtackle shops, as well as restaurants and art galleries. At the well-stocked IGA and SuperValu grocery stores, you can
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fill your shopping cart with provisions, wheel the cart to your boat and then park it at the head of the dock for pickup. When Easy Goin’ is in port we like to let someone else do the cooking. We always enjoy sharing a pizza or a platter of calamari at the Sportsman’s Restaurant. For pub food, it’s hard to beat the ambience at the friendly Gus’ Bar & Grill. We have also heard, from other boaters, Harbour Sushi is worth a visit. Finally, Northern Lights Restaurant has a fine selection of fresh seafood dishes. They also offer take-out and delivery service with an extensive menu that includes everything from appetizers to filet mignon. If you have the time, let the marina staff schedule a tee time and arrange transportation for a round of golf at
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nearby nine-hole Seven Hills Golf & Country Club, or the nine-hole par-3 Cedar Park course. The staff is also happy to arrange First Nation cultural tours, whale watching and helicopter tours, charter fishing or a dive boat. A couple of must-see exhibits when visiting are the Port McNeill Heritage Museum, housed in a beautiful log building, with its extensive displays of logging paraphernalia and what life was like in Port McNeill in the early days. Next door, sitting under a wooden shelter is the world’s largest tree burl. A burl is a rounded knotty growth on a tree; they’re usually used to make bowls, but at 24 tons—and estimated at over 525 years old—it’s not well suited for that purpose!. One of the best aspects of the area is the abundance of wildlife. It’s quite common to encounter eagles, orcas, Dall’s porpoises and seals. As we approached Port McNeill, on our last visit, we were greeted by a humpback whale. When we departed a school of white-sided dolphins escorted Easy Goin’ back into the Broughton Islands. Even the sea life is friendly and accommodating when you visit Port McNeill ...
If you go: North Island Marina: www.portmcneill.com Port McNeill Harbour: town.portmcneill.bc.ca/harbour
Fly in or out: Kenmore Air: www.kenmoreair.com Pacific Coastal Airlines: www.pacificcoastal.com Northwest Seaplanes: www.nwseaplanes.com
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STEVE JACKMAN
Steve Jackman grew up in Port McNeill, British Columbia working at his family’s auto-parts store as well as at their fuel dock. Leaving Port McNeill for university after a year of traveling, Steve found his way into the hospitality industry in Victoria, working at various restaurants as a bartender, server and manager over a four-year period. Moving on to Whistler, BC to live out his “ski bum” fantasy, Steve spent the next five years running restaurants and bars before deciding to return home in 2007. There he would help expand and transform the family fuel dock into a marina. Working with his father Bruce, they installed 2,100 feet of linear moorage. Today, along with his wife Jessica, Steve runs the marina, keeping his hospitality roots close to heart. The simple mantra of “treating other people like you want to be treated” can be seen with the welcoming attitude both Steve and Jessica extend in their daily work ethic. Besides being outdoors all day on the water, they say the best part of their job is dealing with the outgoing, passionate people that make up the majority of their clientele. In their free time, Steve and Jessica love to travel to a wide variety of places: some warm, for their tropical beaches, surf and diving; some cold, for their big snowy mountains. Wherever they go they love to bring along their two dogs, Stewart and Harley, to join in on the fun.
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Deep Into the Wilderness and Back in Time For Dinner by Terry W. Sheely
I
’m standing on the sawdust that spills out the front door of the infamous Red Dog Saloon in Juneau, Alaska. The shuttle van pulls up. I step in, shake hands with four East Coast urbanites who have never held a fly rod, and two hours later we’re decked out in waders, standing in a quick little river that’s gushing out of a conifer-crammed wilderness under the mountains on Chilkat Peninsula. Two of the four are already playing wild salmon on $400 fly rods; the other two are roll-casting like they know what they’re doing. There are bear tracks etched into the sand behind us, while our guide/instructor/protector is readying the net and grinning. Three eagles stare down their hooked beaks at us from a skeleton snag. The red, white and blue Ward Air floatplane is long gone when a humpback whale breaches just beyond where this nameless freshwater stream rushes into the saltwater of Lynn Canal.
Arne Johnson, Bear Creek Outfitters.
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Staring out at glacier-capped peaks, watching wild salmon rocket past my waders, it’s staggeringly hard to believe that just a little while ago we were standing on concrete, dodging cars in the downtown hustle of Alaska’s capital city. It will be even harder to explain that evening, when I’m seated at a table in the Westmark Baranof enjoying braised scallops, a white-linen tablecloth and piano music, while swirling a really smooth Sauvignon Blanc and trying to describe the indescribable. After the van ride we walked into a little room at the edge of Juneau International Airport in urban Alaska. Just a blink later we stepped out of a de Havilland Beaver floatplane into knee-deep crystalline water and a real-life adventure in a remote wilderness with more brown bears than people, fishing a smoking-hot salmon river that no one else has fished this year. Arne Johnson makes it happen. A bush pilot, 4th-generation Alaskan, fanatical fisherman and trained accountant, Arne teamed up with his wife Holly and bought Bear Creek Outfitters a few years ago. They’ve since partnered with Ward Air, a floatplane operation with four decades of Southeast experience. Their business plan: plunge everyday people into the unforgettable, flying them into the calendar-photo scenery of outback Alaska, while making it convenient, comfortable, safe and quick. At the heart of Bear Creek’s business are four-hour floatplane adventures that in reality are compacted dream trips: low-level flights through breathtaking scenery to remote wilderness beaches; getting dropped off at the peak of salmon, trout and char fisheries; neighboring up with brown bears, whales, wolves and maybe a moose. This is the outback Alaska: the rugged, breathtaking, edgy Alaska that most people can only see, feel and smell by bookThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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ing expensive multi-day stays at isolated lodges. Bear Creek Outfitters and Ward Air make it happen in an afternoon – at a fraction of the costs of a lodge stay. This isn’t a “buzz the ice field, see the whale and photograph the friendly bear” trip. This is a boots-in-the-gravel, bears-in-the -bush adventure; getting dropped off on a distant roadless chunk of remote outback, watching the floatplane leave and quietly hoping it will come back. It’s following a guide who packs a quiver of fishing rods, tackle, flies, snacks, bear spray and a 12-gauge shotgun. It’s not knowing where you’re fishing until the last minute, when the guides put their heads together, come up with the hottest stream in the region and tell the pilot. If you don’t fish, there are options: Ward Air can take you to the renowned brown-bear sanctuary at Pack Creek on Admiralty Island with a Bear Creek guide, or fly you to an afternoon with wildlife on Admiralty and Chichagof Islands and the Chilkat Peninsula. If you want to do it, they’ll figure out how. Climb into the Beaver, lift off the narrow strip of water that parallels the jet runway, circle past the apron of Mendenhall Glacier, buzz the ravens on Gastineau Flats and head off in either direction. Within minutes Juneau, and the rest of the world, disappear into the distinctive roar of the powerful piston engine. A friend told me a long time ago, “you know every time these planes fly it’s to an adventure.” He was so right. Ward Air was started in 1974 by Ken Ward with a single floatplane. Nineteen years later, he sold it to Ed and Randy Kiesel, who have grown the business into a fleet of nine backcountry Beavers, Otters and Cessnas. In addition to flying Bear Creek The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Outfitters’ anglers into remote streams, Ward shuttles adventurers into the two dozen isolated U.S. Forest Service rental cabins scattered across Southeast, charters fly-in fishing and hunting trips to camps in the Tongass National Forest, and delivers hikers, campers and kayakers wherever they need to be. I’ve flown Ward Air a lot during two decades of chasing outdoor stories across Southeast Alaska; invariably getting there and getting back is a huge part of the experience. Winging over saltwater about as high up as an old-growth Douglas fir, I’ve watched whales bubblenetting herring, buzzed clam beaches to move the brown bears back into the forest before we land, looked down on the backs of eagles, stared into streams streaked black with salmon backs, slipped past the icy cracks of prehistoric glacier ice and wrapped around mountain peaks that I doubt have ever been climbed. I’ve been mesmerized by the low afternoon light that paints the islands, mountains and fjords with a golden brush, puts fire in the ribbons of mist that wrap the hillsides, and turns the palette of seawater into purples and blacks. With the planes in its fleet carrying four to 10 passengers, plus gear and equipped with floats —or, during the winter—skis, Ward Air says it’s flexible enough to “travel almost anywhere within Southeast” and there are few places they haven’t touched down. As the floatplane lifts off and fades toward Juneau, guide Mark Hieronymus walks us across the beach to a surging stream, past bear tracks, eagle feathers, fish bones and reefs of blue mussels. He hands out high-tech 7-weight fly rods to guys who’ve never handled any kind of fishing rod, attaches reels loaded with weight-forward floating lines, knots on a variety of flies, demonstrates a basic casts. My Connecti28
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cut companions are skeptical. Mark positions us along the bank, goes from one to the next with quick, light-hearted, efficient instructions and within a few minutes one of the guys, with soft office hands, is clutching a bucking rod— hollering, splashing, mystified by his success and his predicament. Mark grins. “You’ve got him, just hang on. Enjoy it.” In the next few minutes, Juneau, Connecticut, the cruise ship and the rest of this guy’s world disappears. He doesn’t hear the two anglers above him hook up and shout; he doesn’t hear the eagle scream. He’s riveted on a salmon he can’t see and a fat line that’s slicing a mean curve across the river. I’m glad I’m here. Ward Air and Bear Creek Outfitters didn’t take us fishing—they took us for a magical ride on a flying Beaver that can swim, into a four-hour adventure that will last a lifetime.
Flyrods and bear guns--Juneau flightfishing.
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British Columbia’s Craft-Beer Revolution by Joe Wiebe
B
ritish Columbia’s craft-beer community reached a significant milestone late in 2015 when Foamer’s Folly Brewing opened in Pitt Meadows, becoming the province’s 100th craft brewery. What makes this achievement especially impressive is the fact that there were only 50 craft breweries in BC at the end of 2012. Craft beer is booming in BC, as more and more consumers turn away from big multinational breweries to seek out more flavorful and diverse options from local microbreweries and brewpubs. While it took only three years for the 50 newest breweries to open in BC, the origins of the first 50 span three decades, dating back to 1982 when Canada’s first microbrewery opened
in Horseshoe Bay, a small community just north of Vancouver that is best known for its ferry terminal, which links mainlanders to Nanaimo, Bowen Island and the Sunshine Coast. Two years later, Spinnakers, Canada’s first brewpub, opened on the picturesque shore of Victoria’s Inner Harbour. The Horseshoe Bay Brewery closed long ago, but Spinnakers is still going strong; it definitely tops the list of breweries to visit in BC if only for its historical status, but the beer and food are outstanding, too. The restaurant side has been part of the localfood movement since the early 1990s and sources many of its ingredients from nearby farms. Spinnakers also began making cider in 2015. Victoria has another three brewpubs
and five craft breweries, with another three just outside the city. There are plenty of great choices, including Phillips Brewing, whose founder, Matt Phillips, maxed-out all his credit cards when the banks refused his loan requests back in 2000. He has since grown the operation into one of Canada’s most successful craft breweries. Or visit Driftwood Brewery and Hoyne Brewing, which share a parking lot in the Rock Bay neighbourhood, then sit down for lunch and a pint at the nearby Moon Under Water Brewpub. If you are driving over to Vancouver, be sure to stop at Category 12 Brewing in Saanichton, about halfway to the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal. And on the other side, plan to stop at Four Winds Brewing in Delta, which was
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named Brewery of the Year at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. While the wealth of options in Victoria has earned it the unofficial title of BC’s “craft beer capital,” Vancouver has experienced an explosion of new breweries in recent years, making it the most exciting place to enjoy craft beer in BC. The city now has 22 breweries and brewpubs, including 16 that have opened since 2012. There are another dozen new breweries in the immediate suburbs around the city and several more poised to open in 2016. Most of these new operations are situated within walking or cycling distance of each other in one of two distinct brewery districts: Brewery Creek along Main Street in Mount Pleasant; and “Yeast Van” with a string of breweries mainly located along Clark Drive and Powell Street. What fuels Vancouver’s scene is a focus on brewery lounges where customers can sample a flight of beers or drink their favorite by the pint if they prefer, perhaps washing down a taco or other delicious meal from a gourmet food-truck parked out front. Brassneck Brewery does not package its beers, so you have to go there in person if you want to sample its One Trick Pony Imperial IPA, which won “Best in Show” at the 2015 BC Beer Awards. Other unique spots to visit include 33 Acres, Strange Fellows and Callister Brewing, which acts as a “brewery incubator” by hosting three other brewers who don’t have their own facilities. Up in Whistler, craft beer is brewed and served at the Brewhouse, right beside the Olympic Plaza in the heart of the Village. Whistler Brewing offers tastings and tours at its facility in the Function Junction neighborhood. Expect Sea-to-Sky Craft Brewery to open nearby in 2016. And if you’re driving back to Vancouver, check out Howe Sound Brewing in Squamish. The Sunshine Coast is home to two unique and enticing craft breweries. Persephone Brewing is based on a farm in Gibsons, complete with its 32
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own fields of hops. Up in Powell River is Townsite Brewing, led by the talented Cédric Dauchot, the only Belgian brewmaster working west of Montréal. The brewery is named for Powell River’s original Townsite neighborhood, which was named a National Historic Site in 1995, and is itself located in an architectural treasure of a building dating back to 1939. Back on Vancouver Island, there are now a wealth of craft-beer options. The Comox Valley is home to three breweries, all younger than two years old. Cumberland Brewing has a welcoming tasting lounge and outdoor patio with gourmet options available from Rider’s Pizza next door. In nearby Courtenay, there is Gladstone Brewing, also with great pizza options next door, and Forbidden Brewing, a tiny nanobrewery based in the Westerley Hotel. Nanaimo has three breweries to choose from: Longwood, Wolf, and White Sails, which just opened late in 2015. Look for new breweries in Port Alberni and Chemainus in 2016, joining Red Arrow Brewing, which opened in Duncan last year. Finally, no Vancouver Island vacation is complete without a visit to Tofino, and that includes a stop at Tofino Brewing, which has been supplying surfers with suds since 2011. The largest of the Gulf Islands is home to Salt Spring Island Ales, a rustic brewery located in an old barn at the base of Mount Bruce, using only the freshest of water from a spring up on the mountainside. The brewery grows its own hops in a nearby field, and embraces ancient beer styles such as Heather Ale and Gruit, which is brewed with herbs and spices instead of hops. If you’re visiting Prince Rupert, say hi to the great folks at Wheelhouse Brewing, one of a new wave of craft breweries that have opened in northern BC in the past two years. There seems to be no stopping BC’s craft beer revolution! 34
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10 Canadian Beer Facts
1. The oldest brewery in North America is Molson’s in Montreal, where they have been brewing on site since 1786. 2. The “fact” that Canadian beer is stronger than American beer is a fallacy. Canadians measure alcohol content by volume, not weight, so when measured equally, Canadian beer is only a little bit stronger than American beer. Which some say, it all comes down to the fact that Canadians can just outdrink their American neighbors! 3. In one year, Canada sold enough beer to fill Toronto’s 54,000seat Sky Dome. 4. The real beer drinkers of Canada are the Yukoners. In a year, they drank an equivalent of 18 “two-fours” (cases) of beer per capita; followed by Quebecers at 11 and Newfoundlanders at 10.5. 5. Canada holds the third-highest tax rate in the world; 52 percent of the retail price of beer is various taxes. 6. Canadians like bottled beer. Approximately 69 percent of Canadian domestic beer is sold in bottles, 19 percent in cans and 12 percent on tap. 7. In Canada 97 percent of all bottles and 86 percent of all cans are returned and recycled. 8. Canada ranked 17th in the world for beer consumption per capita. The world’s top countries are the Czech Republic, Ireland and Germany. 9. More than two billion liters of domestic beer are consumed in Canada every year; they collectively spend more than $11 billion. 10. There are 100 semi-trucks filled with Canadian beer travelling into the U.S. every week. The U.S. is the biggest export market for Canadian alcoholic beverages.
British Columbia Beer Festivals 2016 March 4-12, 2016 Victoria Beer Week April 8-9, 2016 Okanagan Fest of Ale in Penticton May 12-14, 2016 Great Okanagan Beer Festival in Kelowna May 27— June 5, 2016 Vancouver Craft Beer Week Sept. 9-10, 2016 Great Canadian Beer Festival in Victoria Sept. 16-18, 2016 Whistler Village Beer Festival Oct. 15, 2016 BC Beer Awards in Vancouver The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
HA RBORS happenings HA R B O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
F a ces of t h e 2016 Sea t t l e B oa t S ho w
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Ketchikan to Skagway
Alaska
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broughton islands desolation sound discovery islands Nanaimo North vancouver island sunshine Coast west vancouver island
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INS NTA Arm
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Haro Strait
Nanaimo to Olympia
Puget Sound
* Seaplane service available at all destinations by charter.
Bellingham Gulf Islands Nanaimo Puget Sound Salt Spring Island San Juan Islands Seattle Vancouver Island Victoria
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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A “Houseboat” on Not-SoDry Land Camano Island, WA by Russ Young
As is so often the case, when the leaky, sagging roof of their Camano Island, Washington cottage forced Brenda and Mike Adams to think about repairs, they had a rather modest project in mind. “We thought we would just rebuild what we had—a little rustic 1937 beach cabin. And this is what we got,” says Mike, gesturing as he welcomes visitors to their home that, while still relatively small, is anything but rustic. As he and Brenda began exploring the possibilities for repairs, it became apparent that the original structure was incapable of supporting the load of a new roof. Enter Tom Rochon and Dan Nelson of Designs Northwest Architects, who were charged with translating the Adams’ wishes into an updated design. Among the immediate challenges facing the significant remodel—or The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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perhaps closer to a complete teardown-and-rebuild—was the fact that the Adams’ house is in a “Zone V.” That’s a U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency designation for “Areas along coasts subject to inundation by the 1-percent-annualchance flood event with additional hazards associated with storm-induced waves.” At that point, if Dan and Tom were to explain to you what that meant in terms of design considerations, you might have decided to shutter your old beach cabin, or tear it down and leave the lot vacant. But that’s not what Brenda and Mike did. The Adams purchased the 1937 cabin not long after Mike began exploring Camano Island during a break in a nearby youth-baseball tournament. They began searching online for island homes, and discovered the cottage that became their second home. They were in almost total agreement about its condition: Brenda called it a “disaster;” Mike said it was a “complete disaster.” He went to visit and saw bald eagles overhead and seals swimming by. Brenda went to visit and said she saw “a dump. I had to suspend disbelief.” Nonetheless, they bought the twobedroom, one-bath house in 2000, and made relatively minor changes, tearing out carpet and replacing flooring, but leaving the knotty-pine walls and ceilings, and the log siding outdoors. Now fast-forward to 2006, and the Adams’ discussion with the architects about designing for a “Zone V” floodplain. In layman’s terms, that meant the ground floor of the house had to be designed for potential flooding by high waves and tides. “We started with the idea of loving the experience of what we had (with the original house) but we got excited by the possibilities,” Mike said. So began a six-year project to design and build something significantly different. 46
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The most obvious elements of the flood-tolerant design are on the ground floor. The walls include three roll-up glass doors, engineered to break away if high water is putting an unsustainable load on them. Electrical outlets (and switches) are 48 inches off the floor, to avoid any contact with potential floodwaters. Two Murphy beds along one wall are designed so that the bedding sits above the flood line when they are folded up. Even the interior siding can be easily removed and replaced if it gets wet. Despite the conditions for which the ground floor is designed, it’s not all that bad. The roll-up doors make the room an extension of the waterside patio, which was designed with sufficient drains to help prevent flooding. The indoor furniture can be easily moved outside for sunny days and summer evenings. Going up the stairs, it’s clear that the architects—in collaboration with the Adams’s son Colin—met one of Mike and Brenda’s design requests. They wanted their new, improved beach cabin to be much like a houseboat, optimizing the storage space, and making sure that every nook and cranny was put to use. That’s not to say that the upstairs space feels cramped or spartan, by any means. You’ll find radiant tile floors and a glass-bead fireplace with a tile surround in a wave-like design. The kitchen, while efficient in its design, is hardly a galley; it includes Wolf and Sub-Zero appliances. The dining table and bench are from Seattle’s Urban Hardwoods. The houseboat feel continues as you look out onto the water. At high tide, one has to stand at the windows and look almost straight down to realize that the house is on dry land. (At low tide, the water can go out more than 100 yards into the Saratoga Passage, although the views of Mount Baker and Whidbey Island remain unchanged.) Brenda and 48
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Mike own a 26-foot Rinker, which they tie to a buoy off shore. Above the living room, which looks across the water through a wall of glass, is a loft area that likely makes kids of all ages think about spending nights up there in a sleeping bag on inflatable mattresses. (Brenda’s sister, when visiting from Arizona, loves the loft citing the warmth and the incredible view, which may be even better than the one from the living room below.) The home’s design is certainly in keeping with Pacific Northwest aesthetics; there is lots of maple upstairs, and cedar downstairs. Outside, Formica siding with stainless-steel accents means “low maintenance” and “weatherproof.” 50
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Although it’s not particularly chic to talk about dealing with sewage, the 1937 cesspool was out of touch with modern standards. It was replaced by a modern drain field along the front of the house, topped by a freestanding patio that the couple jokingly refers to as the—you may have guessed—“poop deck.” While their primary home is in Woodinville, closer to Seattle and Mike’s job at Microsoft, the Adams spend at least one week per month on Camano Island, sometimes hosting as many as 20 guests. And being there for the Fourth of July is an unbreakable tradition—Brenda, Mike and family even camped on the slab during construction so as not to miss the Independence Day celebration. Try doing that on a houseboat! 52
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DESIGN northwest ARCHITECTS
Dan Nelson, Principal Architect Although it’s easy for most of us to dream about our very own waterfront homes, it’s anything but simple to translate those dreams into reality. Just ask Dan Nelson and Tom Rochon of Design Northwest Architects in Stanwood, Washington. Their specialty is designing waterfront homes; they’ve done “hundreds” of them, averaging about 15 per year. And while their goal is to make it seem easy from the waterfront homeowner’s perspective, it can be a considerable challenge. The considerations include engaging federal, state and local governments; keeping up with frequently changing regulations and building codes; and dealing with the literally shifting tides at construction sites. And it’s a team effort. To complete the Adams’ Camano Island home, they engaged the services of consulting structural engineers, biologists, septic-system designers, archaeologists
and historians. Of course, that’s in addition to builder J. Pat Land, and interior designers Wendy Kennedy and Garrett Kuhlman of h2k design. Both attended Everett (WA) High School, growing up close to the Puget Sound waterfront. Dan, who originally graduated from Pacific Lutheran University with a degree in philosophy, went on to study at Boston Architectural College. Tom, originally inspired by Better Homes & Gardens, has his architecture degree from the University of Washington. Tom and Dan are passionate supporters of Housing Hope, which offers housing solutions for low-income and homeless families. As part of a fundraising auction, they built a twostory, 6-by-8-foot playhouse styled after the Adams’ beach house. It was won by two enthusiastic bidders: Brenda and Mike Adams, who moved it to their primary home for the enjoyment of their grandkids.
Tom Rochon, Senior Project Designer
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The Legendary Grumman Goose by Cindy Phillips and Gordon Baron
T
he iconic Grumman Goose seaplane has been flying to waterfront destinations for more than three-quarters of a century. In British Columbia, the sky still comes alive with the unique sounds of the twin 450-horsepower engines, as people, supplies and the mail fly to remote coastal locations on the mid-coast.
The Goose was originally designed and built for a wealthy group of businessmen in Long Island, NY by the Grumman Aircraft Engineering Corporation. They saw an airplane as a faster way to commute from their homes in Long Island to New York city’s Wall Street financial district. They wanted a luxury airplane that could be used for both business
ventures and family getaways; they needed an aircraft that could take off from their private airstrips and land in New York’s harbor. The businessmen commissioned Roy Grumman to build a small fleet of airplanes. In May of 1937, the first G-21 aircraft took flight. The luxury commuter was the first amphibious twin-engine monoplane built, and
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the first of this type to enter the commercial airline service. At the outbreak of World War II, the higher-gross-weight G21-A was put into military service around the world. In 1937, the Goose’s “flying yacht” design was modified to carry two 30-caliber machine guns, bombs or depth charges. The U.S. military had ten variants of the G-21A aircraft, each designed for a special purpose. It was the British Royal Air Force that designated the name “Goose” with its models Goose Mk.1 and Goose Mk. II. The versatile amphibious Grumman Goose could go just about anywhere and was put to the test serving as a transporter for troops and cargo, and a submarine chaser, to doing coastal patrols, air-sea rescues, reconnaissance and navigation training. Between 1938 and 1956 there were 31 Gooses (Geese?) used by the Royal Canadian Air Force for patrolling Canada’s coastal borders.
After the war, the eight-seat commuter Grumman Goose was in demand by the commercial airlines because of the design, versatility and its heavy-duty construction. Antilles Air Boats, based in St. Croix, Virgin Islands, had the largest fleet of Gooses used by a commercial airline. The fleet of 19 aircraft were owned by Capt. Charles Blair and his wife, actress Maureen O’Hara. She was the first woman to be CEO, president and owner of a U.S. commercial airline. Today, Pacific Coastal Airlines (PCA) in Port Hardy, Vancouver Island uses the Grumman Goose to fly to remote locations on British Columbia’s mid-coast. Seaplane base manager Vince Crooks said, “We keep coming back to the Grumman Goose. This is the workhorse of our seaplane fleet; this is the only aircraft that really fits our demands.” The Goose’s engines handle short oneto two-mile hops better than turbo-
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props, and the design of the aircraft handles rough-water landings and carries a heavier payload. PCA has a fleet of five Gooses, three of which are used for daily scheduled flights. Having lived in remote locations in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest for 20 years, I have witnessed these airplanes landing on the ocean many times. There is never a dull moment as a passenger, as water sprays on your window during water landing, or when the plane leans to one side as the wing tip touches the water. It has always amazed me what the pilots have to know about docking the aircraft in severe coastal weather conditions, and how difficult it must be to maneuver the aircraft around obstacles on the water or at the docks. When you hear the sound of the engines, and see a Grumman Goose come into view, it’s “showtime.” People still stop what they are doing and gather to watch, just as they did more than 75 years ago. From 1937 to 1945, Grumman built only 345 aircraft of this design; today you can see the Goose in more than a dozen aviation museums around the world. But if you want the experience of a lifetime, fly on a PCA Grumman Goose from Port Hardy to one of their remote destinations. They have incorporated special return flights starting at less than $200 per passenger, stopping off at logging camps, fishing lodges and floating communities in the inlets and bays scattered along the Central Coast. It won’t be long before the only place you will see these airplanes will be with private owners, museums, old TV series or in the Arnold Schwarzenegger movie “Commando.” Watching the legendary Grumman Goose in action is something that I will always remember; flying on one is even more unforgettable. It is is truly an unsung hero in aviation history. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Don’t Miss Our Next Issue May/June 2016 Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle
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Time To Take a Look Under Your Boat by Tom Tripp
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If you’ve ever traveled to a tropical ocean resort, you know that one of the most popular on-water excursions is the so-called “glass-bottom boat.” It’s always utterly fascinating to find out what’s underneath the boat. Sometimes it can be useful, too. So now you’re back home from your vacation and thinking about how great it would be to be able to see under your boat here in the Pacific Northwest. I have just the piece of cool boating gear to satisfy that need. (It is a need, right?) Check out the AquaLens from a company called Aquabotix. This is a high-quality video camera inside a waterproof housing, with built-in LED lighting. The camera and its adjustable mount simply screw onto any standard ACME-threaded pole. That means it will screw onto almost any kind of standard boat hook or other pole that you can buy in a typical marine-supply store. You simply screw the camera sphere onto your boat pole; the included 15-foot cable has a small control box that clips to your waist. This turns the camera and the lights on and off. There is also a small cable that connects to a 3-1/2 inch LCD screen that straps to your wrist. Lower the camera into the water and now you can see the bottom of your boat, your prop, your anchor line and anchor (depending on the depth, of course), and anything in the water around your boat. Obviously, the visibility depends on the clarity of the water, and how close your pole can get to the object you want to inspect. But since the AquaLens will attach to any standardthread pole, and since you can buy optional cables at lengths of 25, 50 and 75 feet, you can check out quite a bit of the area around you. The light runs on eight AA alkaline batteries, but there is also an optional DC power adaptor available. The LED lights provide about 80
The AquaLens underwater viewing system from Aquabotix lets you explore underwater around your boat from a camera mounted on the end of your boat pole.
Robotix provided this photo of a sandy bottom taken by its HydroView Sport ROV in Puget Sound.
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Here’s an example of a sheriff using an AquaLens on the end of a boat hook.
lumens of illumination, at a temperature of about 6800K—a little whiter than normal sunlight, which should help normalize the colors underwater. The basic unit has a list price of $600 direct from Aquabotix, but I checked some big-box marine supply stores and it’s usually available for about $495. There is an AquaLens PRO version available that comes with a standard, rechargeable lithium battery pack and standard, 25 foot, Kevlar-reinforced cable. You can also buy a Topside View Station that will display the video feed on a 7-inch LCD and record it on an SD memory card. Let’s face it, the summer watertemperature in most of the Sal70
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ish Sea doesn’t get much above the mid-50s and any location more exposed to the open Pacific currents may be closer to the mid-40s. So you don’t really want to go overboard just to see if you’ve got a line wrapped around the propshaft. And it would be really nice to see if that anchor actually found a spot of mud to bury itself—and isn’t just barely caught up on a rock. There are lots of routine situations on the water that could benefit having live underwater video available. Now it might be that you got a really sweet tax refund this year and you’d like to upgrade the underwater video experience. Naturally, there’s an Aquabotix product for that budget, too. It’s the HydroView Sport
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ROV—your own little remotely operated camera sub. It looks like a tiny orange torpedo with two motors, one on either side, and a clear camera-dome in the nose. This one will run on a two-hour lithium battery and dive to 150 feet, if you have enough cable. You can view the video directly on your iPad or laptop, and the ROV can store up to 8 gigabytes onboard. The camera is also full high-definition, with 1080p resolution. Naturally, this kind of fun is a lot more expensive. At the big-box marine supply store, it will run you a little more than five large. (Yup, $5,000.) But if you’re the kind of person who really wants to impress the other folks at a marina, well ...
H A RBO RS
PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating Hotel Murano, Tacoma, WA
The first thing you notice at Tacoma’s luxurious Hotel Murano is the art. It’s everywhere. And the art collection— valued at $2.8 million—resonates with one particular feature of this community’s 20-year renaissance: the International Museum of Glass. That’s no accident. When Provenance Hotels acquired the former Sheraton, it wanted its new property to be reflective of the surrounding community. The Dale Chihuly-inspired museum is just blocks away, and is emblematic of Tacoma’s revival. So what better theme to run through the hotel than art? Each of its 25 floors features a world-renowned glass artist and examples of their work.
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In all, the work of 45 different glass artists from around the world is displayed. Glass art also inspired the hotel’s name. Murano has been the center of Italian art-glass since 1291, when Venetians expelled glassmakers to the island of Murano because of their concerns about fire. As visitors to the “hot shop” at the Museum of Glass can attest, it takes a lot of heat to make glass; no wonder the Venetians were alarmed. Glass art greets you as you pull up to valet parking, adjacent to “Orizon,” a 104-foot-high glass masterwork by Costas Varotsos. It continues in the lobby, where even the registration desk is illuminated glass art. You would be
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by Sean Griffin
forgiven if you thought that you had entered a museum, though one without the usual cool detachment of a museum. This one has a cozy warmth to it. “There is no other hotel in Tacoma that stands out the way the Murano does,” says Greg Joines, who is in charge of the hotel’s 319 rooms. And that’s not just his view. It’s the only hotel between Seattle and Portland awarded a 4-star rating by Forbes Travel Guide, and the first Tacoma hotel to earn that distinction. It’s not surprising it was chosen as the host hotel for the 2015 US Open Golf Tournament. The rooms are ample, and well appointed, and the views can be extraor-
dinary. Our stay in Suite 2300 featured stunning views of Tacoma to the north and east, capturing downtown, the museum district, the waterfront and — in the morning—a spectacular sunrise alongside Mount Rainier. You’ll find a a Pillow Menu. If the bed pillows are harder or softer than you prefer, just touch your phone’s Help Me button, and select from soft, medium, firm, extra-firm, neck and body pillows. Bite, the fourth-floor restaurant, overlooks the lobby atrium and features classic hotel dinner fare. Entrees included steaks, grilled chicken, kobe burgers, wild cedar-plank salmon, seared halibut, and scallop and prawn fettucine. Vegetarians could choose from truffle mac-and-cheese, beet carpaccio, risotto and grilled tofu. The rib-eye steak I ordered was more than ample—16 ounces—and flavorful, as a rib-eye should be. But my wife’s cedar-plank salmon was absolutely delectable. When a Pacific Northwest native pronounces some salmon as the best she’s ever tasted, you know a restaurant has delivered on its promise. And our waiter, Michael, was impeccable in his attention to detail and perfect in his timing. For just relaxing, working on a laptop (did I mention the Murano offers free Wi-Fi?) or chatting with a companion, the lobby in general and the Lobby Bar in particular can’t be beat. The hotel’s location is ideal. You are within six blocks of Tacoma’s Antiques District and the University of Washington Tacoma campus. Within four blocks you’ll find the Theatre District, the Tacoma Art Museum, the Washington History Museum, the Bridge of Glass and its connection to the International Museum of Glass—located along the Thea Foss Waterway with its marinas, seaplane float and walking paths. And you’re just one block away from Tacoma Link, the city’s free lightrail system, which travels from downtown to Tacoma Dome station, with its Sounder train to Seattle.
Hotel Murano 1320 Broadway Tacoma WA 98402 253.238.8000 hotelmuranotacoma.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Auberge Vancouver Hotel, Vancouver, BC
A still relatively young city, Vancouver’s pioneering entrepreneurial spirit began to emerge in the late 1800s. The Canadian Pacific Railway was completed—connecting the city to the rest of the country—and the city had begun its journey toward becoming one of the world’s leading seaports. It was at this time that the mayor, along with a group of entrepreneurs, formed a businessman’s club, which eventually became known as the Terminal City Club. Ever since the club’s inception in 1892, it has been located at 837 West Hastings St., right in the center of the downtown business core. Its original home, the Metropolitan building, 74
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was demolished in 1998, replaced by new Terminal City Club Tower. This 31-story tower houses high-end condos, offices, the Auberge Vancouver Hotel and, of course, the Terminal City Club. The façade of the hotel is unobtrusive—so much so that I almost walked past it without realizing I was passing one of the city’s most conveniently located boutique hotels. When I arrived, I immediately felt I was entering the exclusive atmosphere of a private club. Although the club and the hotel are no longer affiliated, they continue to share the massive marble lobby. The Auberge occupies only a small
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by Pat Awmack
portion of the tower—a mere five of the 31 floors—and consists of 30 standard rooms and 30 suites. Hotel guests have access to an elevator that is separate from that of the other tower inhabitants. Our harbor-view suite was huge, offering stunning views of the convention center and cruise-ship terminal with a backdrop of Burrard Inlet and the winter sun setting on the snowcapped mountains of the north shore. The king-size bed was wonderfully comfortable, and considering that the hotel is located on a busy street in the heart of the business district, I was surprised at how little noise there was. While there were no dishes or
cutlery in the kitchenette, access to a refrigerator and microwave is always a nice addition to any hotel room. All rooms also have a pull-out couch, great for those traveling with children. Although the hotel doesn’t have its own restaurant, guests can cut through the Terminal City Club to access the Lions Pub downstairs. There are also dozens of excellent restaurants in the area. My daughter and I walked to nearby historic Gastown and enjoyed a wonderful tapas meal. Continental breakfast is complimentary for all hotel guests. The hotel is no longer managed by the club, but hotel guests do have access to its first-class swimming pool and fitness center. It’s not often you get the chance to use the facilities of a top-notch members-only club. The hotel’s location is perfect for anyone visiting Vancouver, whether it’s on business or for pleasure. Within minutes you can be at the convention center or at a business appointment at any of the many surrounding office towers. It’s a three-minute walk to the cruise port, and the hotel staff will even volunteer to walk your luggage over for you. Arriving by floatplane? The Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre is less than a ten-minute walk away and you are minutes from the Seabus or rapid transit stations. While the Auberge Vancouver Hotel may have begun as an offshoot of the Terminal City Club, it appears to be thriving as a separate entity. Its wonderful friendly staff and great location almost certainly have a lot to do with that.
Auberge Vancouver Hotel 837 W. Hastings St. Vancouver, BC V6C 2X1 604.678.8899 www.aubergevancouver.com
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Hotel Bellwether, Bellingham, WA
by Deane Hislop
The smell of a morning cup of coffee brewing, flames in the fireplace, and views of Squalicum Harbor, Zuanich Park and Bellingham Bay from the balcony are just a few of the amenities guests of the Hotel Bellwether enjoy. Located in Bellingham, Washington, this luxury hotel with European flair is situated above the southern entrance to Squalicum Harbor. This intimate, upscale establishment provides exceptional accommodations, with attentive service, and personalized amenities that pamper the leisure or business traveler. All but four of the 66 guestrooms have a fireplace, marble shower, deep airjetted bathtub, balconies, lavish linens, oversize pillows, complimentary Wi-Fi and large screen TV. As we entered the well-appointed and spacious Premier Suite, a platter of complimentary fresh fruits and card with a handwritten note signed by the staff made for a delightful personal welcome. The evening turndown service—with freshly baked cookies—was a lovely touch. A stay in the hotel’s signature Lighthouse Suite is one of the most unique experiences in the Pacific Northwest. The three-story, freestanding lighthouse-shaped building offers the most indulgent option. The third floor of the suite is a sitting room with big, comfortable chairs and a 360-degree view, providing a wonderful location to watch the sunset across the bay and behind Lummi Island. Pets and children are not allowed in the Lighthouse Suite, but are otherwise welcome at Hotel Bellwether. The Bellwether also has a 210-foot private dock for hotel visitors want to arrive by boat. Carlee Sanders, frontoffice manager, suggests calling ahead to reserve dock space. The Lighthouse Bar and Grill of76
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fers breakfast, lunch and dinner with a fine selection for all tastes. Executive Chef Michael Grogan and his staff are dedicated to the finest starters and entrees while maximizing the use of fresh local produce. You can savor a cocktail or dinner out on the waterfront patio and witness a romantic sunset, then settle in around the firepit and enjoy the rest of the evening. Live music is available in the lounge five nights a week. Between June and August, guests can enjoy “Blues, Brews and BBQ” on Thursday nights from 5-9 pm on the hotel’s Waterfront Terrace. The live music, locally crafted beer and grilled food is popular with both hotel guests and locals. The hotel offers a fitness room for working off some of the calories from the night before, and Zazen Salon Spa offers massages and a full line of spa services if you need pampering. Location is one of the hotel’s assets. You can stroll the park-like grounds surrounding the hotel and take up residence on one of the many benches to watch the boat traffic entering and exiting the marina. Another option is to walk along an esplanade that will take you around the marina. Downtown Bellingham is less than a mile away; it’s an easy stroll or an affordable taxi ride. There you can easily stroll between boutiques, galleries, restaurants, pubs, breweries and more. With all Hotel Bellwether has to offer, it’s easy to understand why it was voted the 2015 Best Northwest Luxury Hotel in Evening Magazine’s “Best Northwest Escapes.”
Hotel Bellwether One Bellwether Way Bellingham, WA 98225 360.392.3200 www.hotelbellwether.com
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Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle
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ADVENTURES
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Imagine... Arriving by seaplane to some of the most secluded remote Pacific Northwest destinations, being greeted by your hosts, and sitting down to a gourmet dinner in a setting fit for royalty, is an awesome experience to offer your management team and/or highest producers. Being whisked away in a Grady White or a Boston Whaler and taken to some of the most spectacular fishing areas in the Northern Hemisphere, seeing whales, eagles, sea lions and bears is an everyday experience in the Pacific Northwest. Recording in your mind’s eye the sweeping views of islands and hidden coves only seen by a select audience of adventure enthusiasts.
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Let us custom build a company or group fishing, spa or wildlife retreat, your group will never forget‌ There are so many lodges and resorts out there that it is hard to decide which one is right for your group. Let us help make your adventure plans easier and customized to what you want to do and spend. We have great partnerships with lodges and resorts in WA, BC and AK. Each unique package will give you the experience you want at the best price available. All packages are inclusive with seaplane airfare out of Seattle or Vancouver, meals, boats, tackle and lodging. Just tell us what you want and we will do all the research and planning for you. We handle groups from 5 to 20+. We can customize your meals and activities to satisfy all your hospitality needs.
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PUZZLE
Solution on page 71
HARBORS
ACROSS:
1. Certified for, and capable of, safely sailing at sea. 5. The system of masts and lines on sailing vessels 7. The horizontal direction of a line of sight between two objects on the surface of earth. 9. A cry to draw attention. Term used to hail a boat or a ship. 10. Position of an anchor just clear of the bottom. 12. An eating place aboard a ship. 14. A round opening in a ship’s side, for admitting light and air. 16. The side of a ship sheltered from the wind. 18. A person who steers the ship. 19. A rope used to tie something off. 20. A structure above the weather deck, extending the full width of the vessel, which houses a command center. 24. A period of time during which a part of the crew is on duty. 26. A motor mounted externally on the transom of a small boat. 27. The compartment at the bottom of the hull of a ship or boat where water collects so taht it may be pumped out of the vessel at a later time. 32. The lower part of a stern drive. 33. One nautical mile (1.8520 km; 1.1508 mi) per hour. 35. A suitable place for a ship to anchor. Area of a port or harbor. 36. A vessel with two hulls. 37. The anchor line, rope or cable connecting the anchor chain to the vessel. 39. Relationship of ship’s hull to waterline. 40. In the direction that the wind is coming from. 41. To capsize a boat end over end, rather than by rolling over.
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DOWN:
2. The toilet or latrine of a vessel. 3. The height of a ship’s hull ( excluding superstructure) above the waterline 4. A vessel that is moving under control; i.e., that is, neither at anchor, made fast to the shore, aground nor adrift. 6. Location on a ship where the wheel is located; also called the pilothouse or bridge. 8. The wedge-shaped part of a an anchor’s amrs that digs in the bottom. 11. To attach a boat to a buoy or post, or dock a ship. 13. A valve in the hull of a boat 15. A post mounted on the ship’s bow, for fastening ropes or cables. 16. In the direction that the wind is blowing toward. 17. Shallow water that is a hazard to navigation. 21. A docking facility for small ships and yachts. 22. To join lines (ropes, cables etc.) by unraveling their ends and intertwining them to form a continuous line. 23. A ball woven out of line used to provide the heft to heave the line to another location. 25. A specially knowledgeable person qualified to navigate a vessel or seaplane. 28. Drunk, from having consumed a lot of grog. 29. A method of using sound pulses to detect, range, and sometimes image, underwater targets and obstacles. 30. The maximum speed of a ship. Faster than “full speed.” 31. A movable bridge used in boarding or leaving a ship at a pier; also known as a “brow.” 34. The waves created by a moving vessel. 38. A small cabin in a boat.
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