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T he C enter for Wood e n Boa t s is p le a se d t o p re se n t t h e s tor y of the Highli n e rs, t h e hist oric p owe r-schoone rs o f S e a ttle’s longline fleet. Ma ny of t he se wood e n ve sse ls we re b uilt here, on the c it y’s wa t e r front , a n d a re st ill a ct ive ly fis hing a ft e r 100 ye a rs. This project has been made possible by
O P E N T H R O U G H F A L L 2 0 1 4 a t T H E C EN TE R FO R WO O D E N B OAT S The Center for Wooden Boats 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, 98109
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3 days of award winning documentary films about the diverse cultures and environments we all share
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HARBOR
volume 5 issue 3
HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368
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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com COPY EDITING Russ Young CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack George Bivoino Betsy Crowfoot Natasha Dworkin Sue Frause Bart Rulon
Marianne Scott Terry W. Sheely Elayne Sun Austin Watson Charles West Russ Young
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View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Island Webcam Boating & Adventure Blogging Navigation Maps Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
PHOTO CREDITS Marianne Scott pgs. 16-21 Seair, pgs. 23-26 Pat Awmack, pg. 24 (rt side) Bart Rulon, pgs. 28-32 LLTK, pgs. 34-37 Kathy Madsen, Sotheby’s Bellevue pgs. 38-44
Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 46-50 Charles West, pgs. 52-55 AJ Hunt, pgs. 58-64 Betsy Crowfoot, pg. 66 Coast Bastion, pgs. 70-71 Sylvia Hotel, pgs. 72-73 Fairholme Manor, pgs 74-75
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HAR B O R S
Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher Spring is here, and ‘tis the season for seaplane trips and boating excursions around the Pacific Northwest! One of the nicest things about the region is our mild climate compared to the rest of the world: the weather is often unpredictable, but we always manage to get plenty of days that remind us why we wouldn’t live anyway else. This issue we are bringing you a variety of articles that will make you want to get out and explore the beauty of Washington and British Columbia waters. We will introduce you to the quaint village of Bamfield in Barkley Sound, BC, and take you mushroom forging in the San Juan Islands. We always like to keep you informed on what’s happening with the restoration of our salmon in the Pacific Northwest, as well as introducing some of the world’s best fishing destinations. As the Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine for the region, our mission is to feature exciting destinations and tell you about some of the interesting characters that share the love of both flying and boating. Our profile on Peter Clarke, president of Seair, highlights the passion Peter has for the seaplane industry and the new state-of-the-art seaplanes Seair is flying. We have introduced a new section in the magazine called Who’s Who Around the Pacific Northwest–where you will meet people that have a passion for what they do and where they live. You may have noticed our maps are not included in this issue. We are in the process of creating a set of new maps to cover our expanded content. Look for them in the next issue. Whether you are piloting a seaplane or a boat, I think you will enjoy the many destinations in this issue of HARBORS. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
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Whatever your destination, Red Lion has a location for you. Whether you’re boating the Columbia River, soaring above Seattle atop the Space Needle, skiing the fresh power of Idaho mountains or enjoying the open sky of Montana, we know you’re going to need a good night’s sleep. Wherever your Pacific Northwest adventure takes you, Red Lion Hotels will help make it comfortable. 10
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Features Bamfield Marina Barkley Sound, BC
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Seair Seaplanes
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Snowy Owls
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Salmon Restoration
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Waterfront
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King Salmon Fishing
52
Mushrooms
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Pilot/Owner Peter Clarke British Columbia
Resilient Salmon, Resilient Communities Unique Lakefront Home, Forever Lake, WA
Seven Fishing Hot Spots in Puget Sound
Foraging the San Juan Islands
(photo compliments of Lake Union SeaRay)
Cover Photo: No matter what your destination is in the waters of the Pacific Northwest, this SeaRay Sport Yacht will take you there in comfort and style.
Penn Cove Mussels
Coupeville Mussel Festival Chefs
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Latest Trends in Boating Gear
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Travel Savvy:
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Seaplane & Boating Destinations
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Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
Protecting Your Smartphone
Travel Insurance Tips Nanaimo, BC • Vancouver, BC • Victoria, BC
Meet the Faces of Harbors Destinations
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HARBORS Travel Club Card Travel Club
HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club
Participating Businesses & Organizations Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC
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San Juan Classic Day Sailing
Hotel Grand Pacific
San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching
Fairholme Manor
San Juan Vineyards
Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa
Susie’s Mopeds
Prestige Oceanfront Resort
Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast
Prime Steakhouse & Lounge
Tucker House Bed and Breakfast
Royal BC Museum
Waterworks Art Gallery
Sauce Restaurant & Lounge
Olympic Peninsula
Sooke Harbour House
Bella Italia Restaurant
Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim
George Washington Inn Gift Shop, PA Port Ludlow Resort
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Quileute Oceanside Resort
Orcas Island:
Northern BC Islands
Doe Bay Resort & Retreats
Dent Island Lodge
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EhaArt, Pender Island
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Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor
Rendezvous Lodge
Bird Rock Hotel
Seattle
Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West
Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina
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Notes From Our Readers Bi-monthly Fan The magazine keeps getting better and better. We love that you are now bimonthly. We especially like the reviews on destinations as we are always looking for new places to visit in our new boat. Plan to get up to Campbell River this summer, via the Sunshine Coast. Thank you for all the great ideas! A. J. MacKay Richmond, BC Greetings Saw a copy of HARBORS in the Vancouver Seaplane terminal. We were leaving on a fishing trip near Queen Charlotte Strait last September. We subscribed and have been enjoying the magazine delivered to our ranch near Bend, OR. The article on smoking salmon was great we tried it and it turned out so good our friends keep asking for more. Looking forward to another trip up to BC for fishing! V. Thompson Anacortes, WA California Subscriber Found your magazine online and subscribed. We especially like the Waterfront section. Our dream is to buy a place up in the Pacific Northwest for summer vacations. Would like to see more properties on Vancouver Island and the San Juan Islands. We will be up this summer to look around. Would also like to send a subscription to my daughter in college at the University of Washington. D. Newman Sausalito, CA
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Bamfield by the Sea A Unique Village on Vancouver Island’s West Coast By Marianne Scott
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B
amfield, a quaint town with a trademark boardwalk, situated on the southern edge of Barkley Sound, has a remarkably multi-layered history. First settled by members of the Huu-ay-aht First Nation who lived, fished and hunted here for millennia, European settlers arrived in the 1850s—roughly the same time when towns in Washington and British Columbia were founded. The village was named after its first European settler, William Eddy Banfield, Indian agent and trader. But someone erred and put “Bamfield” on a map—an early typo as it were. The “m” stuck and the isolated village never changed its nomenclature. Bamfield relied on farming, fishing and forestry, but early in the 20th century, it became known internationally as the terminus for a trans-Pacific cable that began in Queensland, Australia, and tied the British Empire together. It was quite a feat. The fat copper cable, called the “All Red Route,” stretched 8,000 miles—the longest in the world—in oceanic depths reaching five miles. Many people predicted failure, but in 1902, the cable was connected in a newly constructed building and Morse specialists soon transmitted up to 24 words per minute. They’d put even today’s superfast texters to shame. For more than 50 years, the cable hummed with messages traveling the huge distances. But electronic obsolescence is nothing new and in 1959, new communication systems forced the station’s closing. The Art Deco building sat empty until Simon Fraser professor and seaweed expert Louis Druehl found and recycled it into a home for the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre. Today the BMSC, run by a consortium of five western CaHARBORS |
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nadian universities, attracts marine scientists from around the world and has trained thousands of students. The Centre’s scientists offer tours of the facilities and the weird sea critters they study—and show how important and productive the marine life is on Vancouver Island’s west coast. Getting there Visitors arrive in Bamfield by various means. All have their charms. Rough logging roads lead through the forests into town—we recommend an SUV or pickup truck. Harbour Air, Kenmore Air and Seair offer floatplane charters during daylight hours, landing at the east Government Dock. It’s the grandest way to see the area; from the sky, you catch the splendour of the ocean, fjords and islands. Arriving by sail- or powerboat is another option. Or you can travel to Port Alberni, then take the Frances Barkley that delivers passengers four times weekly. Once in Bamfield, and ensconced in one of its lodges or B&Bs, walking is best. Except for chittering eagles, screeching gulls and the occasional roar Bamfield’s boardwalk and old sail of a sportfishing boat or loft building. Spectacular view from floatplane, the place is Brady Beach. The Francis Barkley quiet, relaxing and full brings supplies to the West Coast of natural beauty. of Vancouver Island. (opposite) The The town is divided Bamfield “cathouse” offers food and into halve—east and west are separated by lodging to the many feral cats. All Bamfield Inlet. To visit adding to the unique culture of the the west side, you travel village of Bamfield, BC. by boat or water taxi. If you bring your own boat and anchor in Bamfield Inlet, you’ll need a dinghy. You can also tie up at the Government Dock (east), or at either Harbourside Marina or the marina at Mills Landing (west). Protected anchorages are also available in nearby Grappler Inlet. “Downtown” Bamfield The boardwalk along Bamfield’s west side requires a slow meander with many stops. The Coast Guard Station 18
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with its bright red roofs serves as a named “Penny Lane” and “Key West” major rescue and training station. The respectively. Farther down, tourists, Frances Barkley delivers fresh food to hikers and locals gather to lunch at the General Store—where you can get the Boardwalk Bistro. Burgers, beer a scrumptious ice cream cone. The “cat and vegetarian sandwiches are on the houses” are one of the delightful spots, menus, as is intense socialization; with feral cats dropping by to snooze everyone talks to everyone. in one of the colorful houses and pick Bamfield is at northwest end of the up a free meal. A bit farther down the 47-mile West Coast Trail, rated as boardwalk, you’ll see hand-painted one of the world’s most rugged hiktown histories just ing trails. It was estabbelow the public toi- The “cat houses” are one of lished in the early 20th lets. You should stop the delightful spots with feral century as a lifesaving and enjoy the small cats dropping by to snooze trail to help those pastouches—a painted in one of the colorful houses sengers who survived window, a dog-shaped the many shipwrecks and pick up a free meal. planter with nasturthat occurred on this tiums, a byzantine rocky coast. driftwood bench. The hedges are made We met some bedraggled hikers up of co-mingled fuchsia, salmon ber- who’d spent up to six days hiking the ries and honeysuckle; if you’re lucky tortuous trail with its dense forests, you can snatch a berry or two. bogs, mud and ladders. Although Near one workshop that’s peeling longing for a shower and clean sheets, its paint, and named it “Paradise by they were elated to have conquered the the Sea,” someone has strewn old but- trail’s obstacles. tons on the path and called it “Button For the less adventurous, a short Alley.” Two adjoining paths are en- hike to Brady Beach is essential. The crusted with pennies and keys, and are wide strand is flanked by craggy rocks
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Scenic view from Bamfield’s boardwalk. Sunset from Bamfield Inlet. (opposite) The Marine Science Centre’s Rix Hall during the day. Musicians performing at the Music by the Sea Fesitval.
Information
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and offers gorgeous sunsets. It’s a great place to bring a picnic or a bottle of wine and lounge on one of the logs. Bamfield hosts a well-known festival, Music by the Sea. Its eleven concerts take place during the second week in July and will have their ninth season in 2014. It’s the brainchild of musician and composer Christopher Donison, who spent years searching for the right venue and found it in the Marine Science Centre’s Rix Hall. It’s a remarkable building—a semi-circular, 140-seat theatre lit by pale hanging lamps resembling jellyfish. Its crowned by a scallop-shell-shaped roof and offers a floor-to-ceiling glass wall that overlooks Trevor Channel, toward Clayoquot Sound’s purple mountains.
Donison is convinced that Bamfield’s remarkable seascape inspires musicians to greater creativity. And he’s right; as we listened to a diverse group of artists, whose music ranged from medieval to modern, from Bach to the Beatles, with Paganini played in gypsy jazz fashion and jazz from the Great American songbook. We were moved not only by the superb music, but by the magnificent views of wind and current patterns on the darkening water.
More Information:
www.bamfieldchamber.com www.bamfieldbc.com
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HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine is a proud sponsor of the Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada
Nanaimo, BC from above
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Peter Clarke of
Seair Seaplanes By Pat Awmack
“I love what I do,”says Peter Clarke, owner of Seair, a floatplane company based in Richmond, British Columbia. That quickly becomes obvious, as he talks about his business and planes. His love of aviation resonates in everything he says.
A
glance around his Richmond office reinforces this impression. Along with fishing gear and a stuffed 50+ pound salmon—a reminder of his fishing background— there is evidence of flying everywhere. A bench made of polished wood and a helicopter propeller is just one of the pieces. There is a dining set constructed from airplane propellers in the attached kitchen and a side-table/ clock combination, also made from a propeller. The seat cushions are covered in tiny embroidered seaplanes. Everywhere you turn, there is further testament to his passion. Peter’s father was an engineer at Pratt & Whitney, General Electric and Boeing before he bought a remote fishing lodge on the coast of B.C., where the only transportation in and out was by seaplane. Long before he graduated from high school, Peter knew that he wanted to fly the coast of B.C. for a living. After leaving school, he subsidized his flying lessons and saved to buy his first plane, a Cessna 185, by working in construction and as a fishing guide.
In 1980, at the age of 20, he founded Seair, leasing himself and his single plane out to anyone who would hire him. Much of his work in those early days was as a bush pilot, flying to fishing lodges and logging camps along the coast of mainland B.C. and Vancouver Island. Today, he is justifiably proud of his fleet which includes six Cessna Caravans 208s–the fastest, most fuelefficient and quietest seaplanes anywhere–two de Havilland Beavers, two de Havilland Turbine Beavers and one Cessna 185. The US$2.5 million Caravans are beautiful planes, complete with Garmin G1000 “glass cockpit” integrated avionics systems. The three computer screens of this system replace the standard flight instruments, improving the safety features available to pilots. There is a primary flight display screen for each of the pilot and copilot, showing the basic flight instruments such as the altimeter, airspeed and heading indicators. The middle computer screen is the multi-function display with a moving map (show-
ing distances of up to 2000 nautical miles), flight plan, indicators for nearby aircraft, engine instrumentation and much more. The Traffic Advisory System with its aural alerts is invaluable, particularly in the busy airspace of Vancouver International Airport. You soon get used to hearing, “Traffic, Traffic,” if another plane gets too close. Seair has customized each of its Caravans to include three buttons which are linked to the Satellite Tracking System in the office: an emergency button; an arrival button which is pushed upon safe arrival in destination; and an ‘ident’ button which the office can use to contact the plane when necessary. Additional features of the modern cabin are leather seats, air conditioning, air vents, reading lights, shoulder harnesses, and perhaps most importantly, the wide doors with large handles, which are unobstructed by seats. Safety is Seair’s primary focus. Along with the easy-open doors and the Satellite Tracking System, Peter has also initiated safety briefings prior
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From fishing gear and a stuffed 50+ pound salmon to a bench made of polished wood and a helicopter propeller, Peter’s office exhibits evidence of flying and fishing in every direction. 24
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to boarding a flight. His pilots have found that people pay more attention before they board the airplane, rather than after. At the other end of the spectrum when it comes to the fleet, is a 1957 de Havilland Beaver, which Peter is convinced will end up in a museum one day. This very special plane, with serial number 1000 and call-sign “Papa Charlie Golf ”, was once owned by Philip Clarke Garratt, former president of de Havilland and father of the Beaver project. The Beaver has been voted one of Canada’s top-ten engineering feats of the 20th century and in 1991, the Canadian Mint produced a de Havilland Beaver commemorative C$20 coin. You’ll find one of these coins inlaid in the console of this plane. The history of this Beaver, the commemorative coin, the maple trim and leather seats are all indications that it will indeed be a museum piece. While Seair offers scheduled service to the Gulf Islands and Nanaimo, more than 50 percent of its business is charter flights. The company holds numerous contracts with fishing lodges, construction companies, real-estate companies, the Canadian Department of Fisheries, and the country’s Department of National Defence, among others. Seair planes are also often used by the movie industry, both in flight and stationary. Peter recalls flying with Katherine Hepburn, who insisted on flying in the Beaver because it brought back memories of staying at the Westin Bayshore Hotel in Vancouver with Howard Hughes—and how they traveled in a Beaver on those trips. During the summer months Seair is busy flying passengers back and forth to many of B.C.’s coastal fishing lodges. Passengers and supplies go in, and passengers and fish fly out. Because the company has aircraft of varying sizes it can shuffle their aircraft used on a particular route, based on demand. Scheduled flights operate from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre to The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Seair flies to the most scenic destinations in British Columbia. Peter Clarke fishing off seaplane pontoons.
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Nanaimo; Richmond to Nanaimo; and Richmond to six of the Gulf Islands. Seair is the only B.C. floatplane company licensed to fly to the U.S. and often flies charters to points in Washington state. Peter is proud of Seair’s dock at Nanaimo. Designed by him and built by International Marine Floating Systems, the dock is a one-of-a-kind “H” shaped structure, with a center panel that is submerged at the touch of a button. The plane is then floated over the panel, which is then raised, leaving the aircraft free of the corrosive salt water. Although Peter began as a oneman operation, he now has a team of approximately 40 employees. Both Nanaimo Base Manager Brian Potentier, and pilot and Operations Manager Terry Hiebert, have worked for Seair for nine years. Some of his employees have been there 20 years, which speaks volumes about the culture of the company. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Snowy Owls
of the Pacific Northwest By Bart Rulon
I
n the minds of bird watchers, the winter of 2012 will undoubtedly go down as the year of the snowy owl. From coast to coast across North America, huge numbers of magnificent snowy owls migrated farther south that year during what is called an “irruption year.” Thousands of these beautiful white owls with feathered toes, strong talons, and striking yellow eyes invaded the lower 48 U.S. states and captured the hearts of both young and old. You don’t have to be a bird watcher to be captivated by these mysterious white owls from the Arctic north. Because of their color and their habitat, snowy owls are much easier to spot than other owl species. They frequent open fields and shorelines similar to the Arctic tundra where they spend most of their time in spring and summer. While they are most active at night, snowy owls can be seen during the day resting in the same open areas where they like to hunt day and night. You’ll often see them perched right on the ground, on driftwood, or on the tops of trees. Fortunately for us, snowy owls seem to be more tolerant of close human presence than most birds of prey, making them easier to see without binoculars. Sometimes they even
choose habitats in close proximity to human activity. For instance, this year at Boundary Bay, British Columbia, many snowy owls spent their entire day perched within 40 feet of a walking trail that teems with walkers, joggers, bikers, and eventually, owl watchers. In 2012, the Pacific Northwest was one of the best regions to view snowy owls. The birds started showing up in November and many of them stayed until late March or April before they finally flew north again. They were seen as far south as Oregon on the west coast, Oklahoma in the Midwest, and Pennsylvania on the east coast. Boundary Bay proved one of the best places to view them and boasted as many as 30 owls this year. Ocean Shores, Washington, was another hot spot, with 13 owls seen at Damon Point. A Photographer’s Delight The snowy owl has long been one of my favorite subjects to photograph and paint, so I didn’t waste any time getting out to see them. Knowing that it might be another five to ten years before I had another opportunity like this, I spent more than 200 hours photographing the owls. Along the way, I rubbed shoulders with photographers from California, Montana, and Louisiana who had come just to see these
Arctic transients. The last time snowy owls were this prevalent was during the winters of 1996-1997 and 2005-2006. Like other photographers, I knew this was a rare opportunity. I spent most of my owl sessions at Boundary Bay. The best time to see owl activity is always at sunrise and sunset. In the mornings, some owls were still wide-eyed and bushy-tailed from an evening of hunting. Most owls were already settled in their resting spot before the sun came up, but some stragglers flew in at sunrise from their nightly haunts. At sunset, they were even more prevalent. The owls would prepare for their nighttime hunts by spreading out and perching on drift logs scattered among the fields. This was my favorite time of the day to photograph, because it provided the best opportunity to capture the owls on interesting perches with mountains in the background. Like actresses in the dressing room before a performance, the birds spent lots of time preening their feathers to get ready for a night’s work. Then, one by one, the owls would fly off to hunt. One night at midnight, under the light of a full moon, I set out to look for owls hunting near their daytime hot spot. To my surprise I couldn’t find a single owl, on land or in the air.
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Courtesy National Weather Service 30
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Behavior Watch Interactions between snowy owls were interesting to watch. The owls seemed to find comfort and safety in being near each other. If one owl flew out to try a new perch, it often started a trend, and he or she would be joined by more owls. I was a quick study and started carefully positioning myself near possible trendsetters. Sometimes the gamble paid off, and it was a thrill to see several owls fly in and land right in front of me. The big gathering spots often changed day by day, but some individual birds definitely had favorite perches. Most interactions between snowy owls appear to be peaceful, but at least one of the owls at Boundary Bay had troublemaking tendencies. On several occasions, I witnessed an ornery owl fly at, and repeatedly attack, other owls for no apparent reason. Sharp talons would spring open, feathers would fly, and acrobatics ensued. It was all dramatic and exciting.
The big gathering spots often changed day by day, but some individual birds definitely had favorite perches. Snowy owls have to watch their backs on the tidal flats for predators such as coyotes. Bald eagles also made the owls nervous whenever they flew nearby. This proved great for photography, because the owls would hunker down and follow the eagles with intense, wide-eyed stares. It made for a funny scene when two or more owls synchronized their “drop, stare, and follow� routines, and became mirror images of one another. One of my favorite moments occurred at sunrise one February morning when I spotted six snowy owls lined up in a row on the ground. They were all minding their own business until a bald eagle flew in behind me. At that point, all six owls turned around and posed in unison, their eyes wide open, fixed on the eagle. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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At Ocean Shores, the owls’ reaction to eagles was a little different. Instead of freezing, these owls frequently took flight when eagles flew by. I quickly learned to keep an eye on owls frightened off by an eagle because it made for good flight photos. I witnessed two feeding behaviors. One happened when a snowy owl spotted a northern harrier eating a bird. The owl flew over and spooked the harrier, stealing his lunch, and taking his place on the ground. For the next 10 minutes, the harrier harassed the owl from the air until the snowy finally had enough and took off. Another time, I spotted an owl land in the water and wade around as if it had lost something beneath the water. It eventually jumped onto a drift log and walked back and forth glaring into the water with purpose. Then it bent down, grabbed a small snail, and moved on. Many of these owls have very unique expressions and character, and, before long, I could recognize and even nickname individual owls. All snowy owls have pure white faces, but their bodies range from heavy dark barring (stripes) to almost pure white. Males usually sport more white than females, and immature birds typically have more barring than adults, but there is enough overlap that owl experts don’t like to use plumage as an accurate judge of gender. As the heaviest owl in North America (four to five pounds), these magnificent birds have wingspans of four to five feet. Snowy owls feed on lemmings, voles, mice, small mammals, waterfowl, fish and other prey. Lemmings comprise most of their diet, but the populations of this small rodent regularly go through boom and bust cycles. Ornithologists believe that crashes in lemming populations usually cause snowy owl irruptions southward. When lemming populations drop, younger, less experienced owls are forced to travel farther south to look for food. 32
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Experts believe 2012’s irruption might have been a little different. The number of eggs a snowy owl lays often depends on the abundance of prey each year. In times of low prey numbers, they might not lay eggs at all, or have just one or two. In abundant years, the owls may raise seven or more fledglings. In 2012 lemming numbers were so high that snowy owls laid more eggs and successfully raised more young owls than ever before. The result was a bumper crop of new owls and, potentially, too much competition for food, pushing more owls southward. All of this was lucky for those of us who don’t live in the Great White North, but love snowy owls. To glimpse of one of North America’s most remarkable birds is exhilarating. You can bet the next time snowy owls fly this far south again I’ll be acting like a kid in a candy store once more. www.bartrulon.com
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RESILIENT SALMON, RESILIENT COMMUNITIES By Natasha Dworkin
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Shaping a Future In Which Wild Salmon Coexist With a Growing Human Population and a Vibrant Economy
W
hether you reside in our region’s mossy woodlands, its arid deserts, or its steeland-glass civic centers, you likely have salmon for neighbors. Salmon have been central to the culture, environment and economy of the Pacific Northwest for hundreds of years. With lifecycles that take them from remote wilderness streams through bustling urban waterways and back again, salmon literally connect our ecosystems and our communities. While oral histories tell of rivers and streams so thick with wild salmon you could walk across on their backs, and while we seem to see salmon everywhere—at the grocery store, on restaurant menus, gracing totems and even painted on airplanes—the fact is that our once-prolific salmon runs are shrinking. Today, according to the National Marine Fisheries Service, 31 of the 52 salmon and steelhead populations in Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and California are listed as threatened or endangered under the U.S. Endangered Species Act (ESA). In British Columbia, all five salmon species have been reduced to between 13 and 50 percent of their historic abundance. So how, in the context of a growing human population and urban expansion, and in the face of environmental realities like climate change, can we sustain salmon and steelhead, and along with them the very qualities that make the Northwest a special place to visit and live? Seattle-based nonprofit Long Live the Kings (LLTK) is working hard to do just that. Much like the salmon it seeks to protect, LLTK’s projects range from stream to ocean and from mountain to coast; restoring wild salmon and steelhead while also providing opportunities for sustainable fishing. What
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follows are just a few of the ways that LLTK is making an impact: Improving salmon and steelhead survival in the Salish Sea Natural resource managers have long acknowledged that poor marine survival is one of the most critical issues facing salmon and steelhead recovery today. But, while much is understood about the factors affecting salmon and steelhead survival in freshwater rivers and streams, relatively little information exists about the ways in which salmon interact with the marine environment. LLTK has partnered with Canada’s Pacific Salmon Foundation to coordinate the largest effort to date to improve understanding of salmon and steelhead survival in the Salish Sea. The Salish Sea Marine Survival Project is a precedent-setting international research initiative that brings together multidisciplinary expertise from two dozen federal and state agencies, Tribes, academia, and nonprofit organizations on both sides of the US/ Canada border. Outcomes from this collaborative research will help managers prioritize decision-making about salmon hatcheries, harvest, and habitat; increase sustainable fishing; and advance the recovery of ESA-listed salmon, steelhead, and Orca whales that rely on salmon during their annual summer residency in the Salish Sea. Restoring wild steelhead in Hood Canal Wild steelhead—Washington’s state Fish—have experienced dramatic declines. One hundred years ago, steelhead returns to the Puget Sound region ranged from 325,000 to 800,000 annually. Today, that number has decreased to roughly 13,000. Although current hatchery practices have been cited as one of the factors contributing to the decline of wild steelhead, hatcheries have also been proposed as one tool that could be uti36
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“We in Washington State recognize that the health of our salmon populations and the health of our state’s economy are intertwined. Restoring and protecting our salmon populations and their habitats do more than just maintain our rivers, streams and salmon. They maintain our Northwest way of life.” – Patty Murray, U.S. Senator, Washington
lized to recover these fragile populations, just as captive-rearing programs have helped other at-risk animals such as the California Condor. To address this apparent hatchery paradox, LLTK launched the Hood Canal Steelhead Project, a basin-wide partnership with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and eight other agencies, which evaluates the use of conservation hatcheries as one mechanism for steelhead recovery. Providing sustainable fishing and community engagement in the San Juan Islands Chinook are the biggest of all salmon species, known to grow to more than 50 inches in length. Revered as a prize by anglers, Chinook earned the nickname “kings” and are LLTK’s namesake.
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Since its inception in 1986, LLTK has propagated a run of Chinook salmon from its Glenwood Springs Field Station on Orcas Island. Because no wild Chinook originate in the San Juans, this new salmon run serves sport, Tribal, and commercial fishers while posing little threat to endangered wild fish. Just as important, Glenwood Springs is a pioneer in natural rearing practices. The results are salmon that resemble their wild cousin—in appearance, behavior, and biochemical makeup—more closely than they do other hatchery fish. Community programs at Glenwood Springs present opportunities for the public to interact with salmon in diverse ways. Each year, the field station hosts thousands of visitors–including students, community groups,
“Sustaining resilient salmon runs in our rapidly urbanizing environment is, in many ways, essential to our own spiritual, cultural, mental and physical resiliency. If salmon cannot survive here, ultimately how can we? And what would we have done to this place we call home?” – Jacques White, executive director, Long Live the Kings
researchers, politicians, and private citizens–for tours of the facility and surrounding grounds. Shaping a future for salmon and people Combining on-the-ground fieldwork and cutting-edge science with sophisticated management expertise, LLTK helps those responsible for managing our salmon and steelhead populations do so in ways that are innovative, scientifically credible, and based always on the needs of the fish first. Having salmon among us as our region grows and prospers is a critically important element of retaining who we are as Northwesterners. Through these programs and others, LLTK is helping to shape a future in which thriving salmon runs coexist with dynamic communities and a vibrant economy. To learn more, get involved, and find out how you can support LLTK’s work, visit www.lltk.org. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties
Unique
Lake Living By Russ Young
Spectacular Dwelling on Forever Lake just North of Seattle Although some might argue that the word “estate” is a term used loosely by realtors, there’s no quarrel that “estate” accurately describes the Marysville, Washington home of Karin and Don Stoltz. Situated on 16 acres, it features a 4,900-plus square-foot home, a four-bedroom caretaker’s house, two horse paddocks, and walking and riding trails, And there’s 3.5 acre Forever Lake, which is stocked with trout and bass, and has an island.
Inside the main house, the extensive use of wood, exposed steel and concrete (floors and loadbearing posts) mirror the owner’s history. But the Stoltz’s estate is not a stately British manor; instead, it’s a casually elegant, comfortable and inviting place, both inside and out. The invitation extends to the pair of resident bald eagles—who can be observed enjoying a lakeside meal of fish—along with deer, otters and raccoons that visit the lake and the grounds. Inside the main house, the extensive use of wood, exposed steel and concrete (floors and load-bearing 38
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A circular driveway with a formal entryway belies the casual, comfortable nature of the main house and its surroundings.
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Come Live the
Salt Spring Lifestyle!
Li Read Sea to Sky Premier Properties (Salt Spring) #4 - 105 Rainbow Road Salt Spring Island, BC 250-537-7647 LiRead33@gmail.com
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posts) mirror the couple’s history. Karin and Don worked together in the timber industry before going into the structural-steel business. They provided materials primarily for industrial buildings, which gave them an appreciation for concrete floors—although those in the main house are acid-washed and geothermally heated. The ceilings—including the 26foot living room ceiling—are red cedar. Many of the walls feature straight-grain fir accents. The paneled doors are Douglas fir; the kitchen cabinets are cherry.
The amenities include brand names synonymous with quality: SubZero, Wolf, Elkay, Rumsford and Loewen. There are two master suites with private decks, a bonus room (currently home to fitness equipment)
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a spectacular kitchen, a large loft overlooking the living room, a mud room, and a pantry big enough to accommodate Karin’s canning projects. (There’s also cold storage in the basement.) Alcoves and loft spaces are welcoming to grandchildren— the Stoltzs have 11—while the living/dining area has seated 31 people for Thanksgiving dinner. The amenities include brand names synonymous with quality: SubZero, Wolf, Elkay, Rumsford and Loewen. There is even a ten-zone audio system featuring Marantz components and Paradigm speakers. However, it’s Forever Lake that is the focal point for the design of the house. Don and Karin, who are avid fly fishers, were introduced to the lake by a friend who told them about the private fly-fishing company that still conducts lessons there. The Stoltzs fell in love with the lake and the surrounding grounds, and purchased the property in 2002.
A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
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The blending of wood, steel and concrete reflects the Stoltz’s history of working in the building-materials’ industry.
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
The lake itself – which is aerated to support the fish – has a small island, dubbed “Promise Island.” They spent three years living in the caretaker’s house, working with Soli Terry Architects on a design that gives every room a view of Forever Lake, but also direct access to the yard and the water. Having lived in a ranch-style home, a split-level and a two-story house, Karin says that —coupled with her dedication to clipping pictures from magazines— they had a strong sense of what they wanted. The house was completed in 2005. The lake itself—which is aerated to support the fish—has a small island, dubbed “Promise Island.” It’s connected to the shore by an 80-foot steel and wood bridge, built by Don and Karin. (As capable as they are, it was lifted into place by a crane.)
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
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Discover QUADRA ISLAND!! * Quality Life Style * Sense of Community * Outstanding Natural Beauty * Lots to Explore and Do * Tons of Local Services * 10 Minute Ferry to City Consider the range of options: Business Opportunities $25,000 to $1,379,000 Waterfront Homes $359,000 to $1,595,000 Inland /View/ Recreational Homes $89,000 to 659,900 Vacant Land & Acreages $134,000 to $1,400,000 For details of any listing or general info, contact: Nancy Allwarden Quadra Island Realtor ® since 1989
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The island has hosted four weddings, so the bridge is aptly named the “Bridge of Dreams.” The caretaker’s home—large enough to house a family itself—is connected to a 1,300-square foot shop area, which Don divided to house metal- and wood-working projects. There are also carports that have housed boats, a tractor, riding mower and Don’s restored 1950 Ford pickup. The pair of horse stalls open onto a corral. Karin grew up in the Marysville area, and it was Montana native Don who came west. Now the couple has moved to his home state, where in retirement he has returned to his ranching roots, raising a few head of cattle—and their hay. The Stoltzs have not begun designing their next home, but it’s unmistakable the home at Forever Lake sets a high standard in comfort, elegance and surroundings.
A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
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Sturt Island: Pristine 85.6 acre private island estate in the Discovery Islands, with a master piece main residence, plus log home and log guest cottage, all fully self-sufficient, expansive decks, gardens, moorage and ocean side entertaining area. $4,950,000
Quadra Island Oceanfront: Private 5.7 treed acres with a 1250sqft 2bdrm home featuring old-growth timber frame features, floor to ceiling ocean-side windows, open living spaces and expansive decks overlooking a serene protected bay. $618,000
Galley Bay: Stunning 4.3 acre oceanfront property located inside Desolation Sound Marine Park. Lindal cedar home, top condition, expansive cedar decks. Community water system, generator, wood stove and fireplace. Substantial moorage facilities. $550,000
Schloss Island, Quatsino Sound: Spectacular 82 acre forested private island. NW Vancouver Island coastal location in Koprino Harbour. Subdividable to 10 acres. Beautiful beaches, well-protected, natural springs. 1km from road and boat launch. $987,000
Farewell Harbour Resort: 9.91 acres, 7500sqft oceanfront lodge facility. $990,000 Lot B: 9.8 oceanfront acres, 1900sqft rustic residence, manicured lawns and forest. $295,000 Lot C: 9.91 undeveloped oceanfront acres. $185,000
Vancouver Island Saratoga Beach: Stunning oceanfront properties just 20 minutes from the Comox Airport. Driftwood Estates, an exclusive oceanfront development, offers privacy, a beautiful walk-on beach and marina facilities and amenities nearby. $479,000ea
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First Kings:
7
Hot Spots for Jekyll & Hyde
Salmon
The first salmon of the summer are also the biggest, baddest kings in the Northwest. To be able to present a coveted fillet of chinook at the dinner table, dripping melted butter and swimming in omega 3 sweetness, will have much to do with where and how you fish. Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands and the Juan de Fuca Strait all support chinook salmon fisheries but the timing and tactics of each varies widely. They range between May to August, and from basic herring mooching to complex downrigger trolls of flashers and plastics glowing in ultra-violet paints, tantalizingly enhanced with irrestible laboratory-flavored aromatics. Why? Because the king of fish has a split personality; the chinook is Mr. Hyde in the ocean and Dr. Jekyll in Puget Sound. To sort it out, old salts remind us that the farther a chinook is from the place it was hatched, the more aggressive, hungry and active it will be. In short: a king salmon at the edge of the ocean near Neah Bay in May will be easier to hook than that same fish when it’s deep inside Puget Sound, lolling off the mouth of the Snohomish River in August. At Neah Bay the king is fresh from the ocean, hunt46
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By Terry W. Sheely
ing, feeding and aggressive. By the time it migrates into Puget Sound, its need to feed has been replaced by the urge to spawn, and its internal organs are converting to their freshwater mission. The “Get Out Of My Space” slash- and -fight attitude at Neah Bay has shifted to the laid-back “Super Cool Dude” that conserves energy for climbing rivers. At Neah Bay if you give a chinook easy food it’ll eat it, chew it up and spit out the hooks. At Everett it’s likely to duck and dodge until you whack its latent feeding instinct or smack it in the face and trigger a reactive defensive strike. The chrome-bright kings of the open Pacific physically darken in the estuaries, ocean-blue backs turning to brown, milky-white bellies reddening into the camouflage colors that will blend with silt and rocks and shadows on the bottoms of natal rivers, hiding spawners from predators. The changeover starts to take place somewhere near Port Townsend, where incoming kings slow migrations to sort out the cacophony of currents spilling out of the San Juan Islands, Strait of Georgia, Hood Canal, Puget Sound and the hundreds of inland tributary spawning options. Chinook fillets are all about timing where you fish.
These lucky seven salmon spots are among my favorites, personal hot spots that start on the far west side of Washington and follow the runs home: Neah Bay: You can’t go wrong starting the season on oceanfresh kings at the mouth of Juan de Fuca Strait. The state fish and wildlife agency often sets a May sport-fishing opener targeting a mix of resident feeder and mature kings. June catches the leading edge of incoming chinook. These mature kings are typically still feeding on herring, candlefish and anchovies. They can be caught anywhere from the breaking surf off the beach to rip lines a few miles offshore. My preference is to mooch close with plug-cut herring with four ounces of weight around the reefs, rocks and sea stacks south of Cape Flattery. Bigger boats uncomfortable with the reefs near shore will head outside to the Whistler Buoy and similar landmark spots. If you see big flocks of feeding birds diving on bait I recommend heading out there, too. The close-to-shore waters between Point of Arches and Cape Flattery is where the big fish have their noses stuck in the kelp beds and behind the reefs often less than 60 feet down. It’s the quintessential Northwest style; fishing for feeding kings, tight to the rocks, with plug-cut bait and a couple of ounces of weight, from a trailerable boat. Chinook fishing will hold up here as long as the law allows, starting in May and running deep into July. You’ll find great marina moorage and solid information at Big Salmon Resort and the marina office/tackle shop.
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Sekiu: This unadulterated fish town on Clallam Bay has an under-fished winter blackmouth fishery from February through April, leap-frogging to July and a raft of close-in chinook options, At the July opener solid numbers The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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of kings have moved into Sekiu hot spots after leaving Neah Bay. Unfortunately, migrating chinook tend to fly through here, heading east along the southern edge of Juan de Fuca and by August kings are rare. One of the inviolate caveats of Sekiu is to be on the water fishing before it’s light enough to cut bait without a flashlight. The pre-daylight and dawn bites carry most of the chinook weight although it is, of course, possible to catch a king at any hour, especially during tide changes. This is another Strait fishery where kings hug the shoreline roughly following the 100-120-foot contour east. Several hot spots are within sight of the town marina, including the Caves, Mussolini Rock and Slip Point. You’ll see a mix of trollers and moochers, and my money goes to herring moochers who can finesse a plug cut along the ledges, and in and out of the kelp.
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(Top) Sign at Sekiu Hwy. 112 turnoff. (Center) Plugcut herring. (Bottom) Seiku kings love to eat plugs. (Opposite) On the water for first light bite.
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Sooke: On the British Columbia side of Juan de Fuca Strait, west of Victoria, Sooke is a notable small-boat chinook hot spot; primarily a bait fishery for feeding kings. The prime salmon zones are more tide-rip oriented than inshore structure. Sooke catches both Washington and BC migrations in June and July. There’s a good harbor and good information available locally.
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Port Angeles: When the July opener hits, those kings that flew past Sekiu are working down the 20 fathom (120 feet) contour past Port Angeles and the good news is that unlike Sekiu, chinook will be there in August, too. Summer kings move around in these waters, following the bait and currents. They can be found in one or more of the several local hot spots, which are invariably marked at peak season by a fleet of sport boats. Northwest from the base of Ediz Hook is a series of lumps that suck in
chinook like a vacuum cleaner. Winter Hole is nearest to shore, followed by 1st, 2nd and 3rd Humps. If this area is king-barren -- and it rarely is -- head east to Green Point and then the west side of Dungeness Spit. The Port Angeles chinook grounds are away from shore in the open Strait, and you’re likely to see more trollers and jiggers than bait moochers. Another reason for hardware is that this area can be loaded with inedible dogfish sharks, another X-factor for bait fanciers.
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Port Townsend: This is an iffy spot, not because of chinook movements but because of state restrictions that often don’t allow chi-
nook fishing until mid-July or later, to protect specific runs of endangered kings. But if it’s on, head for Midchannel Bank in the bay between north Port Townsend and north Marrowstone Island. This bank is a spawning ground for candlefish, a chinook delicacy found on the bottom. It’s also the spot in the Straits where cross currents collide from Puget Sound, the Strait of Georgia and Hood Canal, causing king migrations to stall out here while spawners sort out the right road home. Candlefish-style jigs are preferable or troll (mooch if the dogfish aren’t “barking”) as close to bottom as you can get. The bank is rarely deeper
than 60 to 90 feet. If you slide off the northeast corner you’ll be in 120-plus feet of water. It’s a good place to be; the edge of the bank is a king migration lane.
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San Juan Islands: Sometime in June large numbers of kings will slip into the waters along the west side of San Juan Island, signaling the start of what in recent years has been one of the best chinook fisheries on the inside waters of Washington. Unfortunately, king fishing season doesn’t open here until July 1, which means the hot spots will have loaded up with kings before the opener; the Fourth of July can be dynamite.
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Among the top spots beyond San Juan Island are President’s Channel, Point Lawrence, Tide Point, the northwest corner of Waldron Island, and most of the area around north Orcas Island, including Parker Reef, Point Thompson and Point Doughty. Thatcher Pass, between Blakeley and Decatur Islands, is always a good prospect. There’s a big mix of king runs here: some heading north into BC’s Fraser and Thompson River systems; others south into northern Puget Sound; and some east into the Skagit River system. Areas with hot bites are not kept secret -- ask.
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(Top) Watching for salmon bite in San Juan Islands. (Center) Great first King. (Bottom) Trolling off Mussolini Rock.
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North Central Sound: While the number of prime kings in north-central Puget Sound is well short of the “good ol’ days,” there is still plenty of promise in the old-favorite spots. Chinook start arriving just about the opening of catch-and-eat king season in mid-July, and from then until the season ends there are chinook to be caught. Favorite spots are Point No Point, Possession Bar, Double Bluff, and the east-west line between Olele Point and Foulweather Bluff. Salmon season is permanently closed south of that line to Hood Canal Bridge. Check the regulations for specifics. Inside the Sound, invest fishing hours in the west side of Puget Sound at Jefferson Head, Point Monroe and Apple Cove Point at Kingston. Concentrate on dawn and a couple of hours either side of tide changes. While mooching is still a personal favorite, the odds for nailing a king fit for the table inside the Sound go to downrigger trollers towing large flashers and either plastic squid, thinblade wobbling spoons or standard salmon plugs. It also doesn’t hurt to troll a fresh herring behind a flasher. Go deep—100 to 200 feet—and troll into the current flow. And be ready—the first kings are the best kings.
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Seeking the Elusive Fungi
San Juan Mushroom Hunting By Charles West
S
tanding quietly in the fir forest of our island home, I let my eyes adjust to the soft light that filters through the canopy high overhead to the forest floor below my feet. As the shapes and colors of the mossy carpeting come into focus, with wicker basket slung over my arm, I slowly meander through the woods. After the long, unsettled excesses of a stormy winter, the air is calm and beginning to warm. It is spring. The days have started to grow long. The earth too, cloaked in the bright green gift of the past winter, is starting to warm. That’s why I’m here. The earth is warming, and I am hunting. As temperatures slowly rise in mid-April, my quarry emerges from the forest floor. On this hunt, I may capture the makings of an exquisite pizza or a sumptuous encrusted halibut. Today, I’m hunting for the morels and black morels—mushrooms that sneak into our forest every year at just about this time. A wily quarry, they’re often disguised as fallen fir 52
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cones, up-ended leaves, or are simply camouflaged to match their environment. Success in the hunt takes a special kind of focus. A good morel hunter leaves the baggage of day-today worries behind. For some, it is a meditation. In our house, it’s known as “putting on your mushroom eyes.”. Most of the mushrooms I seek are solitary. I’ll find one here, and one there. Coming across a cluster of morels is a cause for me to celebrate. Morels, like most mushrooms, are the fruit of the fungus. Known as mycelia, most of the fungus consists of interwoven thread-like filaments lying unseen in the soil. A recent forest fire may stimulate a massive flowering of morels. Or, a flowering may happen for no apparent reason. On one recent occasion, responding to a plea for a cure to his infected garden, I picked morels from every pathway, flower bed, and individual flowerpots of a neighbor’s half-acre plot. I was pleased to help -- my pastas and risottos were particularly good that month.
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Although morels are a worthy pursuit, they are not the only pursuit. The forests of the San Juan Islands that I call home are a mushroomhunter’s dream. The morel may be a spring mushroom, but diverse species abound at almost any time of year. I’ve found huge specimens of the almond-tasting Agaricus Agustus—the Prince—in the middle of summer. Most beautiful and intriguing may be those times of the year not commonly considered for outdoor adventures—after the first heavy rains of fall and long before the warmth of summer. If the words “wild mushrooms” conjure up visions of delicious fall comfort food—exotic risottos, elegant pasta dishes, handmade pizzas, rich soups, or a hearty stir-fry—perhaps a fall foraging trip to the islands should be in your plans for a weekend adventure. The best mushroom hunting often occurs when vacation traffic is low, so there isn’t much competition for accommodations and dinner reservations.
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• recipe •
Morel Encrusted Halibut Take a handful of your newly captured morels and set them on a kitchen towel to dry for a few days. No special treatment is required. When the morels are dry, coarsely grind them with a coffee grinder, or mortar and pestle. Set them aside. Place a small piece of halibut on a plate. Drizzle a tablespoon of sherry and a tablespoon of soy over it. Let the halibut sit for half an hour or so, occasionally spooning the soy and sherry mixture from the plate over the halibut to keep it moist. Take any large chunks of ground morels and simmer them in a cup of beef stock until the stock is reduced by about half. Pat the halibut lightly with a paper towel and dredge one side of it in the more finely ground morels. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees and then heat an ovenproof skillet to a high heat on the stovetop. Pour in a rough tablespoon of olive oil and wait until the olive oil begins to lightly smoke. Place the halibut, morel side down, in the skillet and cook for two minutes on high heat. Then, flip the halibut and place the whole skillet in the oven for five minutes, or until the halibut is cooked. Remove from the oven and serve. The stock is a nice addition to the halibut, or can be used as gravy for garlic mashed potatoes, or a variety vegetables roasted to your taste. 54
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In planning your trip, do watch the weather. Look for a warming trend in early April and in the fall; wait for a weather window a couple of weeks after the first series of heavy rainstorms. Wear comfortable outdoor clothing, hiking boots and carry another layer if there’s a possibility of a weather change. A wicker basket lined with a checkered cloth napkin is a nice touch, but it is not required. Prepare to be spontaneous; you will have better luck and fresher mushrooms. As an example, last fall was a banner year, but the weather pattern was out of the ordinary. Instead of the warm, clear, calm September days and cool, clear nights that traditionally mark the last vestiges of a dying summer here in the islands … it rained. Not only did it rain, it rained hard. Then, it rained some more. Later in the month, it poured. Rain thundered down, flooding streets and basements. After it poured, it rained again. Day after day, with the days growing into weeks, it rained. When the rain finally stopped and October mimicked a beautiful September, magic touched the dense evergreen forest of the islands and the forest floors became a gourmand’s delight, strewn with an abundance of Chanterelles, Boletus, Matsutake, Shrimp Russula and many more. They all appeared almost overnight. Watching for that weather window can make all the difference in the hunt! Like most mushroom enthusiasts—whose formal name is amateur mycologists—I have my own secret mushroom patches. But, just a few steps off the many miles of hiking trails in the islands, it’s easy to find your own spot. Discovering the delights of the forest is both a learning experience and a relaxing, pleasant pastime. With a little practice, you will anticipate the coming of each season and will find success easy. But, there are a few pitfalls. Some mushrooms are a gour-
met treat, and most mushrooms are benign, but not all. There is a reason some mushrooms are known by names like Destroying Angel. If you are a novice to the sport of the hunt, —by which I mean you are new to mycology—don’t be afraid, but be cautious. Find at least one good guidebook, or perhaps two or three. I would never be without my copy of Mushrooms Demystified. For good measure, I also carry The New Savory Wild Mushroom, and Mushrooms from Eyewitness Handbooks. If you are looking for real expertise or a group outing, join a mycological society. The Puget Sound Mycological Society, (www.psms.org) offers outings, classes and workshops. Last, but not least, take a look at some websites; www.mykoweb.com offers a wide array of descriptions and photos. While specifically targeting species found in California, most of the species are also found here in the Northwest.
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Mussel Mania 2014 Penn Cove Mussel Fest By George Bivoino
I
was one of the many people fortunate to attend this years’ Penn Cove Mussel Festival. The event is an annual mussel extravaganza held on the first weekend in March, in Coupeville, Washington on Whidbey Island. It is here that mussel enthusiasts from around the U.S. and Canada come to enjoy sampling tasty preparations by local restaurants and chefs. Additionally, this year’s festival included the 4th annual “Mussels in the Kettles” Mountain Bike Poker Ride, and the Spring Art Tour which featured Whidbey Island artists at studios from Greenbank to Oak Harbor. The festival began on Friday evening with the “Tasting Penn Cove: Coupeville’s Mussel Mingle”. It featured live entertainment, starting with performances by Larry Mason and Deirdre (Lord) Fairfax, followed by a combination of local musicians who band together to play Beatles music—which made for a crowded dance floor. House-crafted beers from Flyers and delightful select wines poured by Beth’s Bayleaf added to the festivities. And the evening’s highlight— the first of the weekend’s tastings of the world famous Penn Cove mussels was Thai Ginger Mussels prepared by Serendipity Catering. The next two days were filled with local restaurants serving up scrumptious mussel recipes, a mussel-chowder competition between the local restaurants showcasing their secret recipes, beer gardens with more live music,
mussel-farm tours, the annual mussel-eating contest, and mussel-cooking demonstrations. These chefs for this year’s cooking demonstrations were: Steve Clarke, executive chef at Penn Cove Shellfish; Joe Labatt, the executive chef at Seattle’s Brave Horse Tavern; Larry Cordova, executive sous-chef for Microsoft Catering and Chris Garr, the executive chef, at Seattle’s waterfront Ivar’s Acres of Clams. The chefs created their signature mussel dishes, followed by generous tastings of their culinary creations for the eagerly awaiting onlookers. The cooking demonstrations took place in the “MusselFest” headquarters (Coupleville recreation hall) and were showcased between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. both Saturday and Sunday. I showed up at 9:55—and the place was packed. I was lucky to find a seat or I would have been standing at the back of the hall. Each demonstrations was part cooking show, part history and part comedy, with the chefs engaging with the audience, and answering questions as they prepared their dishes—a whole lot of fun! Each sample was so unique and delicious I could not pick out one that was better than another. By the end of the cooking demonstrations I was pleasantly full; almost too full to continue on to the beer and wine gardens, and the streets of Coupeville, to sample more Penn Cove mussel preparations by the area’s restaurants. I will be back next year—I hope I will see you there!
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Apple Pie Mussels 2014 Penn Cove Mussel Fest
First up in the cooking demonstrations was Steve Clark of Penn Cove Shellfish. His preparation was one of his latest creations – Apple Pie Mussels. 5 lbs Penn Cove mussels 1 Tbsp fresh-grated ginger root 1 whole Granny Smith apple, peeled and diced 1 whole Bosc pear, peeled and diced 4 Tbsp salted butter 1 Tbsp cinnamon 1 tsp nutmeg 1 bunch of fresh chives, diced 1/2 bottle of a sweet/dessert white wine Heat a large pot on medium heat. Add the butter. Once melted, add all the fruit and ginger. Sautee for 10 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes. Add mussels and stir to combine. Add wine. Cover and bring to a simmer, stirring every 2 minutes. When all the mussels have opened, add the cinnamon, nutmeg and chives. Stir to incorporate flavors. Serve and enjoy!
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Mussel Creole 2014 Penn Cove Mussel Fest
Next up was the Brave Horse Tavern’s Joe Labatt, who prepared a delicious and spicy Mussels Creole.
Andouille sausage, cooked and diced 1 small onion, diced 2 small green peppers, diced 4 stalks of celery, cleaned and diced small ½ cup of garlic, sliced 3 Tbsp butter 1 Tbsp dried oregano 2 Tbsp chili flake 2 Tbsp Black pepper 3 Tbsp Salt 2 14-oz cans of good quality tomato puree 5 lbs of Penn Cove mussels 6 oz of your favorite lager beer In an 8-10 quart pot, over medium-high heat, melt butter until it just starts to brown and add the Andouille sausage. Cook until the sausage takes on a bit of color, then add the vegetables. Stir frequently until the onions are translucent, then add garlic. Once the garlic is cooked (about three minutes), add chili flake, black pepper and dried oregano; continue to stir frequently for about three more minutes. Next, add the beer, bring to a simmer and let it reduce to half, then add the tomato puree and salt, and stir well. Let simmer for about 20 minutes, then season to taste. Add the mussels and stir very gently into the sauce. Once the mussels are open, they are ready to serve. Serve with grilled or toasted bread.
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The 12th Man Chowder
2014 Penn Cove Mussel Fest
Then Larry Cordova, Microsoft Catering’s executive sous-chef —and an avid Seattle Seahawks fan—prepared his 12th Man Mussel Chowder. (Make note! The following is a hearty recipe proportioned for serving at gatherings of friends and family, or tailgate parties. It serves up to 20 people. For smaller parties, reduce the amount of ingredients. Allow two hours: one for preparation and another hour of cooking time.) 3 cups celery, diced small 3 cups carrots, diced small 3 cups onions, diced small 1 bulb fennel, diced finely ½ cup olive oil 2 Tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped 2 Tbsp fresh thyme, chopped 6 bay leaves 4 Tbsp fresh diced garlic 4 Tbsp fresh diced shallots 8 cups clam juice 1 gallon heavy whipping cream (or half and half ) ½ cup flour ½ cup butter 1 bunch fresh Italian parsley, chopped ½ lb fresh cooked bacon, chopped 2 lbs fresh steamed Penn Cove Mussels, shelled 6 Yukon Gold potatoes, cooked Salt and pepper to taste. Cook off the bacon under an oven broiler or in a frying pan; place the grease into a large soup pot. Chop up the bacon up and set aside in a bowl -- you will use it last. Place the olive oil with the bacon grease and get the oils very smoking hot. BE CAREFUL! 62
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Add the celery, onions, carrots, shallots, garlic and fennel. Sauté the vegetables for about 8-10 minutes -- don’t burn them. The vegetables should be tender. Then add the rosemary, thyme and bay leaves, and stir for 1 minute. Now it should smell fantastic! Add the clam juice and heavy cream. Simmer until it comes to a low rolling boil -- be patient, you’re creating memories. In another pan melt the butter first and add the flour mix well -- it will be somewhat thick. This is the roux -- the binder to make a creamy sauce. When the vegetable mixture comes to a boil and the vegetables are very tender -- not mushy -- add the butterflour mixture (the roux) and mix well, using a whisk. As you are mixing, let it come to a boil and continue stirring. By now it should start to thicken up. If it looks a bit watery, then make a small batch of the roux, adding a little at a time to get to a creamy consistency -- do not add too much or it will get pasty. When the texture is smooth and creamy, turn off the flame, and add the bacon, salt and pepper. Then add the potatoes the Penn Cove mussel meat (no shells!) and the chopped parsley. Serve and enjoy!
Mejillones Picantes 2014 Penn Cove Mussel Fest
Last, but by no means least, was Chris Garr, the executive chef at Seattle’s iconic Ivar’s Acres of Clams. Chris had a special ingredient—Cuervo Gold tequila—which captured the attention of many spectators.
(aka, Spicy Mussels a la Garr) 1 lb mussels 4 oz Uli’s sausage, grilled and diced 3 oz Anejo tequila ( e.g., Jose Curevo ) ½ sweet onion, grilled and diced 2 canned piquello peppers, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ bunch cilantro, rough chopped 2 oz butter, diced small Sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper, to taste 2 oz olive oil Heat the oil in a large surfaced sauté pan or short-sided sauce pan. Add the mussels and allow to cook until they start to open, stirring a few times so they don’t stick to the pan. Then add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the sausage and peppers, and cook for another minute, then deglaze with the tequila. Cook until the mussels are fully opened and firm, and the alcohol flavor has been cooked out. (You should still taste the tequila, just not the harsh alcohol flavor.) Add the butter and incorporate to make a sauce, then add the cilantro, and season with sea salt and black pepper to taste. Serve with toasted bread for dipping.
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Shellfish Farming Sustainable means taking resources from the environment only if it does not disturb the “Integrity, stability and beauty of the biotic community” and doing so in a way that our world can naturally replenish itself. –Aldo Loepold Penn Cove Mussels, Inc., was established in 1975 by the Jefferds’ family. Twenty years later, Penn Cove Mussels entered into a joint relationship with West Coast Seafoods Company (the largest oyster farm in America), and became Penn Cove Shellfish, LLC. It is not difficult to see that the number one mission of Penn Cove Shellfish is sustainability. Starting with their production hatcheries they follow through by planting, harvesting and distribution. Penn Cove owns shellfish hatcheries in Washington and Hawaii, making them the largest producing farm for Pacific and Kumamoto Oysters and Pacific Mussels in the United States. Going on 20 years, it has been their mission to be the premier provider of high-quality sustainable farmed shellfish products in the industry. Their Penn Cove Mussel rafts create the perfect habitat in the Pacific marine ecosystem. No feed, drugs or fertilizers are used on Penn Cove shellfish, which is a comforting thought in today’s world of food processing. They raise mussels, clams, and 27 varieties of Pacific Oysters. All of their products are harvested, packaged and shipped within 48 hours of receiving an order. They harvest immediately after the order is placed, so the customer gets the freshest mussels, oysters and clams available anywhere.
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Foulies for Your Phone By Betsy Crowfoot
Mobile phones pack a lot of punch these days. And for the boater, a smartphone is more than just a means to “reach out and touch someone.” You can plot your course with a marine navigation application—an “app” —and chart plotter, heck the forecast with the NOAA weather app, mark underwater features and fishing hotspots, and find out what’s biting. You can download the racing rules if you’re a sailor, or check the tides, surf, and time of sunset. So, chances are your phone will be out on deck where you are—and that means it’s more vulnerable to weather, spray and—whoops—the unintentional swim. In fact, the warranty company SquareTrade reports that more than 25 percent of reported iPhone accidents involved immersion in liquid or spilled liquids ... wracking up damages to the tune of $5.9 billion in the last half-dozen years. Luckily, hand in hand with the rapid-fire introduction of high-tech (and somewhat fragile) cellular and smartphones, has been the development of a breadth of cases and contraptions designed to protect phones from the elements. Two key considerations in shopping for a phone case are: how often you’ll be exposing your phone to abuse and the out-of-doors; and secondly, if and how you’ll use your phone underway. For just $39, West Marine has a basic waterproof phone pouch—a plastic envelope that closes like a dry bag, with zippers and snaps for added security. The extra long lanyard means you can hang it around your neck and keep it handy—and it fits a multitude of phone types and sizes. You even talk and take pictures through the crystalclear cover. And it floats. It’s a great temporary solution. 66
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But attractive new permanent covers abound too—and everyone seems to be trying to build a better mousetrap, including features described as: • polycarbonate with silicone bumpers; (Top) A basic waterproof phone • shatterproof Gorilla® Glass; pouch offers inexpensive and • rigid nylon resin snap-on second layer; • meeting standards developed by the military; simple protection. Those terms seem more fitting for a Sherman tank, than a telephone! This plethora of companies, like OtterBox and LifeProof, offer extraordinarily durable phone cases, which snap on securely and protect from debris, water and impact. They run in the $80 to $150 range. When selecting a phone cover, determine whether the case will adequately meet your specific needs: • Can you hear, and speak, in un-muffled tones? • Is it easy to plug in and recharge with the case on? • Is the case waterproof, or just water resistant? Is that sufficient? • Does it need an added ‘flotation devise?’ • Can it fit in your pocket, briefcase, or bag, with ease? • Does the design of the case obstruct any functionally, such as the camera? • How does it look? Like you have a Tonka toy in your pocket? The LifeProof case was a bit more streamlined, but I was ready to sacrifice svelte looks for peace of mind, and opted for the OtterBox Preserver. To add confidence, the packaging included instructions that walk you through a test to guarantee your case is waterproof. Thus assured, my phone is now secure in a sturdy case that protects it from water, dirt, dust and impact—yet still allows me to talk and text, and use all the other features and apps—all while sailing, fishing, and even kayaking.
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And what if your phone does take an unprotected swim? Retrieve it immediately and pat it dry as thoroughly as possible. Even if it’s been doused in salt water, dry it off first; Resist any impulse to turn it on or press buttons, which will only transfer water further into the systems; Detach the back and remove the battery, SIM card and/or microSD card; pat these dry as well as the interior of the phone. Use a cotton swab to gently dab water out of your headphone jack or other hard-to-reach areas;
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At this point, if your phone has been immersed in salt water, consider wiping it down with denatured alcohol, or if that’s not available, distilled water. Saltwater is highly corrosive and you want to remove all traces of it.
Do not • Shake it like you’re Miley Cyrus; • Use a blow dryer on it; • Stick it in the oven; • Or place it in the hot sun.
The Rice Trick Now, place your phone and components loosely in a large tub of long-grain [not Minute] rice, which will help draw out the excess moisture. Adjust it periodically, and be patient ... ,,, for days. Spend this time reading your warranty; After 48-72 hours, remove the phone from the rice and vice versa, reassemble, and turn it on; If it doesn’t work; at least you tried. And if it does? Use that phone to call the closest marine, electronics, or accessories shop, and get yourself a protective phone case -- pronto!
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TRAVEL INSURANCE Fundamental? Or Fluff? By Betsy Crowfoot
It seemed a minor inconvenience when a burglar broke into our charter boat, anchored off a small island near Phuket, Thailand. A cell phone and a few mp3 players were gone, along with a small camera; the photos were more valuable than the camera itself. It wasn’t enough to ruin a spectacular vacation—until one sailor discovered her passport was missing. Unable to fly home without a passport, Debbie was stuck in Thailand. Thankfully a comprehensive travel insurance policy she’d purchased before the vacation covered her 750-mile trip to the US Embassy in Chang Mai, her stay there until a new passport was issued, and her rescheduled flight home to the US. Travel insurance seems a waste of money, or a practice for worrywarts until you wish you had it. In truth, it isn’t for everybody - or more accurately, it isn’t for every circumstance. If you’re taking direct transportation to a fixed destination; if you’re enjoying a low-risk, garden-variety 68
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vacation; if weather forecasts are optimal and you’re fit-as-a-fiddle—comparing the cost to the potential for a claim makes sense. But if you have three stopovers and a cruise ship to catch; if you’ve pre-paid
Travel insurance seems a waste of money, or a practice for worrywarts - until you wish you had it. In truth, it isn’t for everybody - or more accurately, it isn’t for every circumstance. the Presidential Suite at a five-star hotel; if you plan to dogsled, whitewater kayak or bungee jump; and are taking lots of fancy gear along—then consider buying coverage. Basically, travel insurance is a limited-term policy purchased to protect the traveler against unexpected situ-
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ations which can interrupt, delay or cancel a trip; either before or during the journey. For instance, you’ll be reimbursed for the sportfishing trip that left the dock in Prince Rupert, while you sat on the tarmac in Seattle. Or for the ski trip to Whistler you booked before you broke your leg, and so on. Travel insurance comes in different ‘’flavors’ but generally speaking, a short-term policy for an individual traveler can cost about $100-200. Companies like Travel Insurance Center [www.travelinsurancecenter.com] provide comparisons by carrier, to help pick the right policy, bearing in mind the destination, length and cost of your trip, and potential for risk. But before you buy, see what cancellation or loss coverage your credit-card company already provides. Look into your existing life and dismemberment policy. Consider that most airlines will reimburse you if your luggage comes up missing. And if you carry on valuables such as camera equipment and jewelry, you reduce the chance
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that these items will get lost, damaged or stolen. The question of separate medical travel insurance seems to boil down to whether you are leaving the country, or not. Your health-insurance provider probably has a contingency for excellent domestic medical care; but it may not cover you abroad, or cover you to your satisfaction. Consider this note from a young, fit friend vacationing in Africa—after he was airlifted from the middle of Botswana to Johannesburg. “If you are going to break yourself, doing it on horseback in the middle of a herd of buffalo is an exciting way to go! I may need a bit of an op in the old tin shack, and some recovery time, but I’m now able to walk again after a few days downtime. Yay for the air ambulance guys (and for decent travel insurance!)” Basic coverage may include only whatever health-care resources are at hand. For frequent travelers of the adventuresome kind, enrollment in a program such as Travel Assurance Promise [www.TAPglobal365.com] guarantees not only state-of-the-art medical care, but evacuation—in a fully equipped Lear Jet—to your home hospital of choice, as well as transport for a traveling companion too. That’s a lot more reassuring than a tin shack in the wilds of Africa. A two-week membership runs about $100; the $275 year-long plan seems a bargain for most thrill seekers and jet setters. Be forewarned that most travelinsurance policies will not cover disruption due to outbreak of war, emergencies due to pre-existing medical conditions or self-induced illnesses, or a change of mind about taking a trip. Purchase travel insurance at least two weeks before your departure date to ensure coverage is activated. Buy early, at the time you make your travel arrangements, and you’ll be covered from any unforeseen circumstances that occur in the interim.
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating Coast Bastion Inn, Nanaimo, BC
By Sue Frause
Known as the birthplace of chocolaty Nanaimo Bars and jazz singer/pianist Diana Krall, Nanaimo is well worth putting on your British Columbia bucket list. Vancouver Island’s second-largest city is located 70 miles north of Victoria on the east side of the island. More than 2,000 years ago it was home to five Coast Salish villages; in the mid-1800s, it became a Hudson’s Bay Co. outpost. Today, the Canadian city has embraced its waterfront. The three-mile Harbourfront Walkway winds past seaplane and ferry terminals, shops and cafes, from Harbour Park Mall to the Departure Bay Ferry Terminal. There’s passenger-ferry service to Protection Island, where the Island Queen pulls into the Dinghy Dock Pub & Family Restaurant, touted as Canada’s only floating pub. Walk around the island (it takes about an hour), then head back to the pub for some sunshine and suds—complete with a view of the rising skyline of downtown Nanaimo and Mount Benson in the background. Rising above the pedestrian path on Front Street is the Nanaimo Bastion. Built in 1853 by the Hudson’s Bay Co., it’s Nanaimo’s oldest structure and is open for tours from mid-May through Labor Day. Every day at noon you’ll hear the sound of bagpipes and the blast of the cannon at the Bastion. Just across Front Street from the Nanaimo Bastion is the Coast Bastion Hotel. Built in 1985, its 179 guest rooms were renovated in 2009. 70
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Its West Coast inspired guest rooms now feature updated, modernized bathrooms; bright and modern decor; and views out to Nanaimo Harbour. Watch the floatplanes take off and land, and see people rowing to work in the morning from nearby Protection Island. Other amenities at the pet-friendly hotel include complimentary Wi-Fi, a fitness center, and Pure Spa for personal pampering. Minnoz Restaurant and Lounge features fresh, local seafood, and offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. The space is elegant and casual, whether meeting friends for cocktails, taking in a hockey game on one of the large TV screens, or having a quiet dinner for two. The restaurant’s daily “Appy Hour” features two-for-one appetizers between 4:00 and 6:00 4-6 p.m. Just a block away from the hotel is Commercial Street, which was awarded the “Best Street in Canada” in the 2001 Great Places in Canada contest. In 2008, Nanaimo Harbourfront Plaza was renamed Diana Krall Plaza in honor of the Grammy Award-winning artist. Nearby is the Nanaimo Museum, a community museum that gives a comprehensive overview of the city. It even features a display about the iconic Nanaimo Bar, which reportedly originated here in 1952. Due to the sweet treat’s popularity, there’s now a Nanaimo Bar Trail, which includes a map with more than two dozen Nanaimo Bar treats that may be found around town -- from the original Nanaimo Bars to milkshakes and martinis.
Coast Bastion Hotel 11 Bastion Street Nanaimo, BC V9R 6ER 250.753.4155 800.716.6199 www.coasthotels.com
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Sylvia Hotel, Vancouver, BC
Sitting by the picture window with a chilled glass of British Columbia Viognier, I’m watching the world go by from the cozy, wood-paneled bar of the Sylvia Hotel. Opened in 1954, this was the first cocktail bar in Vancouver. On a blustery March day there are dozens of runners and cyclists braving the elements on the seawall, people walking their dogs and sculls skimming across English Bay. The hotel—located on the edge of downtown, and minutes from Stanley Park—is across the street from English Bay. Arguably one of the nicest beach areas in Vancouver, this is the location of such events as the Honda Celebration of Light fireworks competition every summer. Now 102 years old, the brick-and-terracotta building was originally built as a 77-unit apartment building and was designated a heritage building by the City of Vancouver in 1975. This designation guarantees that it will be around for years to come. It also means that a stay here is very different 72
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from what you would experience at most other hotels in the city. General Manager Ross Dyck says, “When it comes to hotels, Vancouver has something for everyone. If you’re looking for that new-car smell, stainless steel and glass, we’re not for you.” My first impression as I enter is the feeling of warmth and coziness. The staff is friendly and welcoming and I feel like I’ve entered someone’s vintage home. When I check in I’m handed an old-fashioned room key instead of the plastic key-card. I’m told that it should be returned to the front desk whenever I leave the hotel and picked up again upon my return. I feel as if I’ve stepped back in time to a slower, more genteel era. The hotel has 120 rooms, which, due to the age of the building, vary in size, shape and amenities. Some offer full kitchens; others, more than one bedroom or a Murphy bed. Rooms range in size from the affectionatelynamed “Closet” at 285 square feet to Room 801, which is more than 1,400
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By Pat Awmack
square feet, has five huge bay windows and a panoramic view of English Bay. Regulars to the hotel tend to have their favourites and some will only stay if they can book “their” room. While the elevator may be old and noisy, the beds are comfortable, the linens new and there is free Wi-Fi throughout the building. Clientele include business people who are looking for something outside the downtown core; families (such as the one who celebrated a fifth-generation wedding at the hotel); solo travelers and those looking for a long-stay residence. The full kitchens in many of the rooms appeal to those looking for a long stay, particularly those who wish to trade harsh winter conditions at home for the weather of this West Coast city. The hotel offers special weekly and monthly rates for long stays, especially during the off-season. Occupancy from May to October runs at 100%, which is almost unheard of for any hotel.
When asked why people should stay at his beautiful hotel, Dyck responds, “We have an established location and we offer a different kind of service. We try to have a ‘Norm” mentality.’” This reference to the TV show “Cheers”, where Norm, a regular at the bar, knew everyone and everyone knew him, implies that because of the low staff turnover, regulars can return to the hotel knowing what to expect and how they’ll be treated by the staff. Whether it’s your first stay or your 20th, you’ll feel at home when you stay at the Sylvia Hotel.
Sylvia Hotel 1154 Gilford St, Vancouver, BC V6G 2P6, Canada (604) 681-9321 (877) 681-9321 www.sylviahotel.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Fairholme Manor, Victoria, BC
If you’re seeking a quiet and elegant retreat on Vancouver Island, Fairholme Manor makes for an ideal getaway. Located in the lush Rockland area of Victoria, the six-room Italianate mansion is both plush and private. Built in 1885 as a residence for a prominent doctor, the European-style 74
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inn is situated on nearly an acre and tucked into a neighborhood of stately homes and manicured lawns. Next door are the gardens of Government House, the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor of British Columbia. The grounds are open to the public year-round, and in summer the
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By Sue Frause
Victorian Rose Garden is abloom in color. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip, Duke of Edinburgh, paid a visit to Government House in 2002. Also within easy walking distance are Craigdarroch Castle and the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, which houses an impressive Asian collection and is
home to the only authentic Japanese Shinto shrine in North America. Ross and Sylvia Main opened Fairholme Manor in 1999 and have tastefully decorated their inn with a style they refer to as “casually comfortable and chic.” There’s nothing stuffy or frou-frou about the inn, and its six rooms feature clean lines, blending old with the new. The accommodations range from the spacious Olympic Grand Suite with its sunroom and deck looking out on the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympics, to the cozy French Country Garden Room, overlooking a lovely garden. A number of the suites feature wood-burning fireplaces and kitchens, and the Fairholme Grand Suite has its own spa room, featuring a double-jetted tub and palm trees. The Manor has earned a well-deserved reputation for its breakfasts. “I’ve always felt that a homemade breakfast or brunch is the ideal way to start a busy day or relaxing weekend,” says innkeeper Sylvia. Growing up in Austria, she says some of her fondest memories are trips with her family to local farms. “I spent many hours in the kitchen with my mother, who introduced me to her flair for entertaining in style.” Although Sylvia has no formal training as a chef, her passion for food is evident at breakfast. Served at a trio of tables in the golden-washed dining room, one morning may offer a choice of Eggs Benedict Neptune or Florentine with homemade Hollandaise sauce; another, Lemon Ricotta Pancakes with fresh berries, creme fraiche and Quebec maple syrup -- served with Canadian back bacon. While awaiting your entree, there’s orange juice, coffee or tea, homemade maple-cranberry granola or cereal, fresh fruit, yogurt and freshly baked goods served with homemade jams. Sylvia uses all fresh ingredients, local whenever possible, from freerange eggs to organic dairy and meats. As a result of numerous requests during her 15 years of innkeeping,
Sylvia published a cookbook in 2007. Fabulous Fairholme: Breakfasts & Brunches is a collection of some of her favorite breakfast and brunch recipes. With color photographs, it’s like a morning stroll through a garden of visually tasty delights. She followed it up in 2012 with a second cookbook, Easy Elegance from Fabulous Fairholme: Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch.
Fairholme Manor 638 Rockland Place Victoria, BC V8S 3R2 250.598.3240 877.511.3332 www.fairholmemanor.com
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest, and if you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
LESLIE SIMMONS Occupation Office manager & as-
sistant marketing manager - Stan Miller Yachts
Terry Hiebert
Dan Brunet
Birth Place Sudbury, Ontario Home Town Brentwood Bay, BC Favorite PNW Destination Barkley Sound
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Barkley Sound
Occupation Seaplane pilot for Seair
Favorite PNW Destination Roche Harbor Resort and Marina
Birth Place New Westminster, BC
Best Boating & Fishing Destination I love the South and
Favorite PNW Destination Hakai Pass
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Desolation Sound and Stuart Island
Favorite Eatery The Flying Beaver
Bar and Grill
Best Meal Breakfast, bacon and eggs Favorite Read Fate is the Hunter by
Central BC coast for boating – so many amazing inlets and anchorages.
Favorite Eatery Le Crocodile, in Vancouver, BC. The level of service is unparalleled. Best Meal Sunday brunch at the Salish Lodge in Snoqualmie, WA
Favorite Read The Last Run by Todd Lewan. I’m a disaster-at-sea junkie and this is one of the most fascinating true stories I’ve read.
Best Meal Ribeye steak with fresh
Hobbies Flying, sailing, biking, and a little golfing with my family
Hobbies Long-distance running, boating, reading, watching a remarkable amount of TV, and making homemade bagels and ice cream
Favorite Read The Old Man and
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Favorite Eatery The Med Grill BC spot prawns and crab
the Sea
Hobbies Hockey, fishing, baseball, fishing, football, fishing, golf, fishing, traveling and fishing around the world Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Boating and fishing with my wife Jan and my two daughters–Tara and Danielle– around the Gulf Islands. So many wonderful days and memories.
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Home Town Snoqualmie, WA
Seaplanes, BC
Home Town Comox, BC Occupation Fishing Guide, Lucky Sportfishing; general manager, Eagle Nook Resort, BC.
Birth Place Seattle, WA
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Ernest Gann
I grew up in Comox and my dad along with most of the Comox Bay Sailing Club, built three Sabots in our garage. I sailed that little Sabot just about every day and when I was 10 or 12 years old, the Comox Bay Sailing Club award–me the Cruiser of the Year and I never went past Tree Island! Today when I fly over or land in Comox, I always have fond memories of that.
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In October of 2010, my husband and I got married at Roche Harbor and as a pre-wedding activity, we did a cruise aboard my parents’ Grand Banks with our family and friends (whale watching, without the whales). My husband grew up in Michigan, so we had guests in town from the Midwest, as well as friends from all over the U.S. It was a gorgeous, crisp, sunny day – we piled onto the flybridge to enjoy the scenery and the salty fall air.
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
JACQUES WHITE
KATHERINE KJAER
STEPHEN RATZLAFF
Occupation Executive director, Long Live the Kings, WA
Occupation Advertising sales rep. for boating and aviation magazines
Birth Place Olympia, WA
Birth Place Toronto, ON
Occupation President, Washington Seaplane Pilots Association and partner, OrderPort
Home Town West Seattle, WA
Home Town Victoria, BC
Favorite PNW Destination San
Favorite PNW Destination Salt
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Mutiny Bay, Whidbey
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Campbell River
Favorite Eatery Paseo Carib-
Favorite Eatery The Marina Restaurant and Sushi Bar
Juan Islands
Island
bean Restaurant – Ballard (Shilshole Marina)
Best Meal Caribbean roast
Spring Island
Best Meal Veggie Green bowl at BE LOVE, new restaurant in Victoria
sandwich
Favorite Read The Help
Favorite Read Four Fish by Paul
Hobbies Painting, kayaking, yoga
Hobbies Hiking, fishing, sailing,
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Greenberg
skiing, cooking, gardening, listening to music
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Tie: 1) Tacking across Rosario Strait towards Lopez Island with a stiff breeze in a capable sailboat on a sunny July day with friends and family. 2) drifting in a small boat in Haro Strait and being surrounded by Orca whales, 3) snorkeling for oysters as a boy in the waters of a shallow anchorage near one of the southern Gulf Islands.
Kayaking at Fishermans Wharf. Just around the corner from Victoria’s harbour is Fishermans Wharf, a unique little community that I love to visit as I live close by. I often wander around the docks with my dog and visit kiosks, buy fresh fish and take photos of the float homes all painted in different colours. Then my favourite activity is renting a kayak. I often see seals and the odd sea otter (my favourite sea mammal) hanging out around the docks looking around for their next meal as I head out into the harbour. The area is filled with all kinds of boats, and floatplanes taking off and landing, I often pass the Clipper and/or the Coho ferry, as I paddle off to a more quiet area.
Birth Place Los Angeles, CA Home Town Seattle, WA Favorite PNW Destination Hood Canal
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Ross Lake Favorite Eatery Ivar’s Best Meal Lunch on the dock for Father’s Day. Flew in on a bluebird northwest day.
Favorite Read Wager with the Wind The story of Don Sheldon Hobbies Family, my wife Kristie and our kids Katharine, Nils & Peter, flying, fishing, boating, skiing Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Flying home from Camp Orkila. Poor visibility and low ceilings had kept planes on the water for the past 36 hours and it finally lifted enough by noon to take off. As soon as we were off the water, I heard a friend on the radio and learned we could probably make it south. We soon joined up with a few other Beavers and an Otter, the pilots of which were friends, and flew the trip south fishing our way around and below the clouds. And we made it back in time to watch to Seahawks beat the 49ers. Go Hawks!
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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HARBORS Seaplane/Floatplane
Passenger Guide Things you need to know...
Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage iin the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isn’t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.
Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.
Knowing how to find and use exits Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up. Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.
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Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.
Passenger Briefing Checklist
Getting out safely! Underwater egress
• Baggage limits
In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.
• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)
1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. DO NOT INFLATE IT until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot swim underwater with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit. 6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise. 7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.
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Want to Sit in the
Left Front Seat?
Sitting behind the pilot on your seaplane trip to Roche Harbor, listening to the gentle throbbing drone of a piston engine and scanning the waters of Puget Sound for the occasional Orca pod, are you wondering, “How do I get to sit in the left-front seat … the pilot’s seat?” Chances are the pilot who is busy ensuring you have a safe and comfortable flight was once thinking the exact same thing. 80
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Maybe you’ll never become that commercial pilot, flying passengers back and forth in all kinds of Puget Sound weather, but you can become a private seaplane pilot or just take an introductory—and extremely memorable—flight with an instructor. Several flight schools in Washington State offer private and commercial license courses to qualified individuals. To become a pilot you must be at
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By Austin Watson, CFI
least 17 years old, proficient in English, and pass an FAA medical exam, take a prescribed course of instruction, get an instructor endorsement and finally, pass a practical checkride with an FAA-designated examiner. If you are already a private pilot you may be able to add a SingleEngine Sea rating to your existing Land license with a dozen or more hours of additional flight instruction. If you are starting from scratch, it’s probably best to start by getting a Single-Engine Land license first; but understand it’s an endeavor that may take 60 or more hours of flight instruction—plus ground school, lots of bookwork and a written exam, along with the practical checkride. Don’t kid yourself—it’s a lot of work. If you just want put your toe in the water (so to speak), try an introductory ride at one of the local flight schools, where an instructor will do most of the flying and you can observe or follow along on the controls. It’s not inexpensive, but you will be in the pilot’s seat. You’ll get a real taste of the joy of taking off and landing on the water. Perhaps you’ll be hooked after that ride and start down the road to proficiency—or maybe you’ll decide that you’re not quite cut out to be in that left-front seat. Either way, it will certainly be an experience you’ll never forget. There are three seaplane training schools in the greater Seattle area; Kenmore Air in Kenmore at the north end of Lake Washington, Rainier Flight Service at Renton Airport at Lake Washington’s south end, and Seattle Seaplanes on Lake Union near downtown Seattle.
Promoting Safe Flying Protecting Washington Waters
WASHINGTON SEAPLANE PILOTS ASSOCIATION The WSPA is a group of over 200 friendly and knowledgeable "old-timers" and individuals new to the sport of Water Flying. We try to have some fun while doing it. We gather together on a number of occasions each year to share our interests and lives.
www.wa-spa.org
Our main objective is to Keep Washington Waterways OPEN.
HARBORS: Pacific Northwest Destinations & Adventures The Harbors journey brings together travelers, adventure, and the Northwest! The art, culture, nature and wildlife, fishing, boating, seaplanes, resorts, spas, wine and culinary destinations are just waiting for you to enjoy. Get started with this word seek and see how many people, places, and adventures you can find in the grid! □ �
ARTISANS
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FLIGHT
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HISTORY
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BELLINGHAM
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FLYAWAYS
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KENMORE AIR
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BIRDS
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FORKS
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LAKE UNION
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CHINOOK
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GARDENS
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LODGE
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COHO EAGLE
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GULF ISLANDS
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LOPEZ ISLAND
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FARM
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HATCHERY
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MARITIME
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NORTHWEST
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OTTER
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OUTDOORS
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PILOT
L W Y O Z A H A I O J C I B N
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RESORT
G U L F I S L A N D S V T O A
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ROSARIO
A V S K D P E S O O G P R A S
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SAILBOATS
E L P H A R Y G I U T T A T H
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SAN JUAN
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SEAPLANE
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SHORE
C E Y E O V E S K N U D O R O
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SPA
K L N R J G T G A A I O R L T
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VINEYARD
F S E I T H G I L F B V T I O
Solution 69. Solutionon onpage page xx.
B H I S T O R Y F W B B S S N I R R E M I T I R A M S N A A O U T D O O R S E E R V A I U E C H I N O O K N R H M S L J
O O B E O A A R N Z H T R S P H D S M W R A Y U W E G E D I O G N A D S E N E V S P S R L
S K R O F M A H G N I L L E B Copyright © 2014 PennyDellPuzzles.com
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C-30
R-31 Command Bridge R-21EC
R-25SC
R-29
C-30 Command Bridge R-27
C-30 Sport Top
C-26 C-28
T
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