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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368
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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS MANAGER George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Victoria, Canada: Katherine Kjaer - kkjaer@harborsmagazine.com USA: ads@harborsmagazine.com Vancouver, Canada: Bryan Cousineau - bryan@harborsmagazine.com
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View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Adventure & Lifestyle Videos
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Island Webcam Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
CONTRIBUTORS George Bivoino Biff Burns Sue Frause
Deane Hislop Todd Martin Russ Young
PHOTO CREDITS Deane Hislop, pgs. 14-19 Lisa Airplanes, pgs. 22-26 Todd Martin, pgs. 28-32 Carl Molesworth, pgs. 34-39 Carl Bortolami, pgs. 40-47 AJ Hunt, pgs. 50-57
PSF, pgs.58-59 AJ Hunt, pg. 60-64 John Waugh, pgs. 70 Hastings House, pgs. 72-73 Fairhaven Village Inn, pgs. 74-75 Fairmont Hotel, pgs. 76-77
HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State The Seattle Center for Wooden Boats Mahogany and Merlot, Land, Sea and Air Event HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association PUBLISHED BY HARBORS Magazine is printed on recycled paper. Š 2014 by All Ports Media Group
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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.
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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, Autumn is upon us, bringing cooler weather and the holiday season, but what an amazing summer we had here in the Pacific Northwest! Now is the time to start planning for spring and summer, and all the fantastic destinations you want to explore during 2015. Don’t forget there are many destinations that are great during the fall and winter months. Victoria for the holidays. Vancouver for a weekend stay in a cozy bed and breakfast. Those who live up north can come down and enjoy the tamer weather of Puget Sound and its many protected marinas. Prices are often less during off season and you don’t have to put up with the crowds. This issue features Sullivan Bay near Port Hardy, BC -- a great destination for boat and seaplanes; the marina in La Conner, WA -- a great place to visit all year long; some “wicked salmon;” and one fisherman’s dream-come-true fishing trip. We also have some fun ideas for holiday gifts, like a 2-year subscription to HARBORS magazine for only $48.00. We look forward to bringing you some great adventure destinations in 2015. We will be adding stories about Southeastern Alaska, which is a mecca for seaplane and boating activities. We have some great features lined up: more fishing adventures, diving adventures, resort and spa destinations, wine and culinary experiences, real estate opportunities, and more … You won’t want to miss the six issues we have planned for 2015. We would like to wish all our readers, advertisers, staff and writers a very joyful holiday season. And once you’re fully rested after the holidays, don’t forget to come visit the HARBORS booth at the Seattle Boat Show January 23rd - February 1st, 2015. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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2014 November/December
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Features Sullivan Bay’s Water Dwellers Quaint, Quirky and Historical
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The Lisa Akoya
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Bear Cove Cottages
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La Conner Marina
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Waterfront
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Fishing For the True Sportsman
A Peal in the Making A “Wicked” Salmon Fishing Experience Western Washington
Beach Drive, West Seattle
Hakai Lodge, BC
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Fremont Mischief Distillery
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Holiday Gift Guide
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Boating Gear
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Seaplane & Boating Destinations
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Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
(photo by pilot Jim Howard)
Cover Photo: Seaplane and boats docked in the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Seattle, WA Northwest Experiences and More Personal Floatation Devices Salt Spring Island, BC • Bellingham, WA • Richmond, BC
Meet the Faces of HARBORS Destinations
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Notes From Our Readers Inspired to Visit San Juan Island I enjoyed the look and feel of your magazine and found it very entertaining. I may consider advertising in it. I have not been to San Juan Island in many years and HARBORS Magazine has prompted me to plan another visit. Leslee Farrell Victoria, BC
Facebook Post @harborsmagazine We flew out of Stehekin yesterday with Chelan Seaplanes! It was an amazing flight and we loved seeing HARBORS Magazine in the seat back pocket!! Amber Hagel Bellingham, WA Facebook Post @harborsmagazine I first spotted HARBORS Magazine on a Chelan Seaplanes flight to Rio Vista Winery last month, so they give your publication some good exposure. Mike Hedges Seattle, WA
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Whidbey Island Bird Watcher is Fan of Brant Geese Article I read your article on Brant Geese, it was excellent. I am a bird watcher from Whidbey Island, Washington. We would love to see more articles on Northwest wildlife, birding in particular. Your magazine always has wonderful photography as well. I will be subscribing online and giving a subscription to my brother for Christmas. Thanks, Vincent Hagel Oak Harbor, WA
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Sullivan Bay’s Water Dwellers Quaint, Quirky and Historical By Deane Hislop
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he concept of a floating mobile community was once unique to British Columbia’s coast. Skiffs and motorboats functioned as transportation. With the stroke of a tugboat engine, the whole affair could vanish and reappear somewhere entirely of its own choosing. Once common on the BC coast, they have now all but disappeared. But a few still exist; Sullivan Bay Resort is one of them. This relaxed, picturesque and fullof-character floating village is located on the north side of North Broughton Island, in Sutlej Channel, 280 miles north of Vancouver. It got its start in 1945 when Myrtle and Bruce Collinson moved their logging camp from Kinnaird Island to the protected waters of Sullivan Bay, and established a seaplane harbor, fish camp, store and post office to serve mission boats, loggers and fishermen, as well as intrepid cruisers. Until the mid-1950’s it was the busiest floatplane base on the BC coast. The Collinsons sold out in 1957; in 1971 Pat and Lynn Finnerty purchased the facility and converted it into a marina and growing the float home community. A few years ago the marina was sold to a group of Sullivan Bay homeowners. Today Sullivan Bay Marine Resort is being managed by friendly and energetic Debbie (Deb)
Holt, Chris Scheveers and their Yorkie, Buddy. Floatplanes still arrive frequently, but the community’s focus has shifted to boaters drawn by the slow pace and grand scenery. Boaters are also attracted by more than 3,000 feet of guest moorage on wide stable docks; 15-, 30-, 50- and 100-amp power; gasoline, diesel and propane; and a small, but well-stocked general store, liquor agency and post office. They also find a licensed restaurant, free Wi-Fi, recycling center, exercise room, showers, laundry and library. There’s even the Sullivan Bay Brig, should crew members get unruly. Then there is the aptly named grassy “Poop Deck” on a separate float for reserved for pets that need to relieve themselves. But it’s the warmth and quirkiness of the village that brings people back. Some even have trouble leaving this wonderland and stay through the summer, if not longer. Chris and his team will boat-sit your vessel should there be a need to hop on a plane and fly home to tend to business. The marina is also a convenient location for fly-in guests to join you for a portion of your cruise. Don’t look for a place to hike; this is a 100 percent water-based community. Everything is on floats. To stretch their legs, visitors can walk more than one
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mile of docks, checking out the boats and floating homes. Sullivan Bay is an extensive network of connected docks with a mix of old buildings and 18 modern upscale homes in a residential neighborhood. Each dock is named, like streets in a city, and quaint street signs have been placed at each intersection. The home styles range from coastal traditional to Seattle-inspired modern. One has a helicopter pad on its roof. Some residents have a floatplane tied at the back door, and/or a boat moored out front. Regardless of the design, none seem out of place, but all are in sharp contrast with the lush green surrounding wilderness. From time to time bears can be seen foraging the shoreline, as was the case on our last visit when a female black bear and her cub made an appearance behind the neighborhood of floating homes. The old town hall is now a cozy restaurant offering nightly dinner spe16
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cials; the Friday-night prime rib is our favorite. The walls are lined with photographs and mementos from Sullivan Bay’s past. Several feature the work of coastal legend Jim Spilsbury, whose pioneering efforts in two fields reduced up-coast isolation and earned him the Order of British Columbia, the province’s highest honor. Starting in the 1920’s Spilsbury built, installed and fixed radios up and down the coast. In a land without wires, coastal settlements until then could communicate only by boat; radio was revolutionary. Spilsbury also founded Queen Charlotte Airlines (QCA), which became the third-largest in Canada from the mid 1940s to the late ‘50s. The assortment of different planes flown in by QCA are featured in several photographs in the restaurant. There is always something to do while visiting Sullivan Bay. The salmon and bottom fishing, crabbing and prawning can be quite good, and Chris is always willing to point out on
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the chart where to try your luck. But don’t be surprised if he suggests fishing off the dock for halibut. It’s not uncommon for guests to catch their dinner from the dock. Even though you’re in Canada, Chris and Deb throw a heck of a 4th of July party annually. The celebration includes a parade along the docks, with some in costume making as much noise as possible. After the morning parade, everyone relaxes for a couple of hours, resting up for the kid’s fishing derby, followed by the blindfold dinghy races. The nightly festivities include a barbecue dinner, live band and dancing on the dock. If you’re in the area, this is definitely the place to be for Independence Day. Moorage sells out well in advance, so reservations are a must. For the golfer and non-golfer alike, Chris holds daily contests at the onehole Sullivan Bay Golf Course. The green is a small satellite dish covered with Astroturf and anchored out off
the end of a dock that serves as the tee. This prestigious course is rated as a single par-one hole with a small floating green, 90 to 150 yards depending on the tides and current. Winners get a free night’s moorage and fresh-baked pastries. Each evening at 5 o’clock Deb and Chris host happy hour at the covered town square. Everyone brings an appetizer to share and their favorite beverage. It’s a great way to meet your new neighbors, trade boating stories and lie about fishing. The quirkiness and hospitality of Sullivan Bay makes us want to return year after year. If you visit, we suspect you’ll feel the same way.
More Information: www.sullivanbay.com sullivanbaymarina@gmail.com 604.484.9193 VHF Ch. 66A
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Promoting Safe Flying Protecting Washington Waters
WASHINGTON SEAPLANE PILOTS ASSOCIATION The WSPA is a group of over 200 friendly and knowledgeable "old-timers" and individuals new to the sport of Water Flying. We try to have some fun while doing it. We gather together on a number of occasions each year to share our interests and lives.
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www.wa-spa.org
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Our main objective is to Keep Washington Waterways OPEN.
Save the date: February 21 – 22, 2015
NORTHWESTAVIATION CONFERENCE AND TRADE SHOW
Established 1948 www.washington-aviation.org
SHOWPLEX
PUYALLUP, WA
STATIC AVIATION DISPLAYS & NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES
Your Invitation
Proudly presented by the Washington Aviation Association, this premier event annually attracts over 10,000 pilots, owners & mechanics HELICOPTERS | LIGHT SPORT | FLOATPLANES | EXPERIMENTAL
The event hosts 75+ hours of seminars for pilots and aircraft owners. 2015 keynotes: Rod Machado and Mark Baker, AOPA president. Topics range from weather/navigation, helicopter/floats mountain flying workshop, survival, FAA updates, technology, destinations, avionics and so much more! FRIDAY – join us for the third annual Aviation Career Forum.
PRIME SPACES AVAILABLE – just $575/booth Call now for details & locations – toll free: 866-WAA-SHOW.
Admission $5.00 | Certificate/registration fees may apply Parking blue lot – FREE Youth 17/under – FREE
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WIPAIRE, INC.
Call for more information: 866-922-7469 or locally (360) 427-5599
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The Lisa Akoya
A Pearl in the Making By Biff Burns
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ooking for a truly unique holiday gift this year? How about a two-seat amphibious airplane that can also take off and land on snow or the ground? The Akoya, currently undergoing development and testing, might be just what you’ve been looking for. Named after a type of pearl oyster, the Akoya is the brainchild of designers at Lisa Airplanes, a French company that is working toward having the airplane certified for service in mid24
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2016. They intend it as the first of a family of such airplanes, envisioning larger models that could seat as many as ten passengers. Powered by a single 98.6 horsepower engine mounted in a “tractor” configuration, the Akoya is designed to fly at a maximum speed of 155 miles per hour (250 kilometers/hour), with a range of up to 1,250 miles (2,000 kilometers). Much like Boeing’s new 787 Dreamliner, the Akoya is built primarily from carbon-fiber reinforced
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polymer composites. As a result of its light weight and aerodynamic efficiency, the airplane is expected to consume 1.5 gallons (5.6 litres) of fuel per 100 kilometers. The two occupants are seated sideby-side under a one piece, 180-degree panoramic canopy; the airplane has dual controls and can be flown from either seat. Water takeoffs and landings are made possible by a pair of hydrofoils – Lisa calls them “seafoils” – that are
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just outboard of the retractable threewheel landing gear. Optional skis can be added to allow taking off and landing on snow. The company is seeking light-sport approval of its design, which would require a U.S. or Canadian sport-pilot license or their European equivalent, a light-aircraft pilot license. The company says a novice pilot could be licensed with 20 to 30 hours of instruction, and has plans to open their own training center at Lake Bourget, France. Concerned about where you might store your airplane? A unique feature allows the wings to be rotated horizontally 90 degrees, meaning that the wingspan does not dictate the area needed for parking the storing the Akoya. The company says that will make storing the plane in a garage or on a yacht possible. Developing an all-new airplane is no small undertaking. A full-scale mockup was first unveiled at a German air show in early 2007. The first prototype flew later that year in France. Business challenges brought on by the global economic crisis nearly ended development and testing, but the company has regained its financial footing and remains determined to put the airplane into production. It says the Akoya should be certified for service by the U.S. and European authorities by mid-2016. Lisa Airplanes is currently taking deposits for production airplanes; to date, the company says it has received more than 100 such down-payments, primarily from the United States. They intend to sell the Akoya globally, with India, New Zealand, Latin America and the Asia-Pacific region seen as key markets. And since you’re undoubtedly going to ask about the price, the answer is: US$379,000. That’s not exactly a stocking stuffer, but if the people at Lisa turn their dream into reality, the Akoya may open new avenues–watery, snowy and earthly–for a new generation of pilots and passengers.
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Bear Cove Cottages A “Wicked” Salmon Fishing Experience By Todd Martin
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or some time I had been looking for a British Columbia salmonfishing resort that I could easily drive to. Then, while watching a TV fishing show, I learned out about Bear Cove Cottages in Port Hardy. The guide, Wade Dayley, seemed to be a complete pro in every sense of the word. After chatting with him a couple times I booked a mid-June trip to visit his resort and experience the rugged west coast salmon fishing experience he offers. What followed was the most memorable trip I have ever had as an angler. Port Hardy is located on the northeastern tip of Vancouver Island. In decades past its economy was based on logging, but these days it is the ecotourism, backpacking and spectacular salmon fishing that draw visitors. Wade and his wife, Shannon, built Bear Cove Cottages 13 years ago and it has been a dream-come-true for this vibrant couple. They have eight luxurious cabins, each with an ocean view. They offer vacation packages that include golfing, wildlife eco-tours and local sightseeing trips, but their primary focus is first-class guided salmon fishing packages.
Shannon operates the resort and is a certified holistic nutritional consultant. The couple’s near-term expansion plans include adding a restaurant with a menu based on local, sustainable seafood. They will also be opening a spa and they are looking into helicopter-fishing excursions to remote river systems for anglers who want the ultimate wilderness experience. Wade has been fishing in and around Port Hardy for more than 25 years. He has been guiding professionally for a dozen years; to say he has “found his calling” is an understatement. He has two Grady White boats loaded with the best fishing gear available. When needed for bigger groups or corporate events, he has a partner with another three boats operating out of the same marina. Wade is a Certified Tidal Angling Guide and is also a Rapala Certified Guide. One thing I have learned over the years is that to have a truly memorable fishing experience you need to hire the best guide around. After two days of fishing with Wade, I can say I have never seen anyone more passionate about getting his clients hooked up with big fish. He loves his job and trea-
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Bear Cove Cottages has eight luxurious cabins, all with an ocean view. This big sea lion was curious about our boat; he could probably smell all the salmon on board. Get in touch with Wade & Shannon Dayley at www.wickedsalmon.com
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sures every minute on the water . No one gets more excited about landing trophy-sized salmon than Wade; if you are not catching big salmon in short order, no one is more frustrated than he is. Wade works his gear, boat and the tides, utilizing his local knowledge to make every minute on the water as productive as possible. I was very impressed with his guiding prowess and cannot wait to fish with him again. My wife joined me for a two-day excursion to Bear Cove in mid-June. On the first day we headed for one of Wade’s local hot spots. We fished for 30 minutes and only managed to land two small salmon, which was completely unacceptable to Wade. We brought in the gear and moved to another location about 10 minutes away. Wade was confident that one of these spots would produce gold-medal fishing; it was just a question of which location was hot that day. At the second spot we hit paydirt. We lowered our trolling gear and almost immediately we were getting strikes from large, aggressive chinook salmon. The action was fast and furious. By 9:30 am, we had landed six chinooks, all in the 20-pound range. We had doubleheaders; we had fish bending the rod over while crash-diving under the boat; we had long runs and the kind of non-stop action that brings a childish grin to your face. I was in awe! I have never had a day of fishing like that, anywhere. Wade proudly exclaimed, “This is how we roll at Bear Cove Cottages.” It’s no wonder that he and Shannon use the expression “wicked salmon.” On our second day we stayed closer to Port Hardy, as Wade took us to several of his favorite locations to enjoy the local wildlife. We saw humpback whales, dolphins, bald eagles, seals and sea lions. However, the absolute highlight of my trip was landing a 25-pound wild chinook in a crazy, see-saw, reelscreaming battle just as we were contemplating calling it a day. No one was
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more pleased to land that fish than Wade. I’ll long remember the smile on his face as he netted and lifted it into the boat. The peak salmon season in Port Hardy starts in mid-June and runs strong through September. Along with huge chinook runs, coho, sockeye and pink salmon are also plentiful. The early season sees chinook up to 30 pounds being caught, with the bigger fish arriving in mid-July. About the same time the migrating cohos show up; they are available through late summer. Bottom fishing is also productive in the Port Hardy area with good populations of halibut, lingcod and yellow-eyed rockfish. The fishing gear used by Bear Cove Cottages is top-of-the-line: Grady White boats, Scotty downriggers, Fenwick rods, Islander reels, Hot Spot flashers and Rhys-Davis teaser heads. Wade trolls with lures and plugs from time to time, but he says often that if you want to get bit by big fish, bait is best! He almost exclusively trolls with frozen anchovies in a Rhys-Davis teaser head behind a Hot Spot flasher. This is his preferred big fish set-up. Getting to Port Hardy and Bear Cove Cottages is a breeze. Once you arrive on Vancouver Island via B.C. Ferries, simply drive north Kristine Martin, reeling in yet another on Island Highway #19. The chinook. Majestic bald eagles abound on road ends at Port Hardy, and the the northern tip of Vancouver Island. Wade drive between Campbell River Dayley is not happy unless you are happy, and Port Hardy is majestic. If holding fish like this. you want to save time, Pacific Coastal Airlines has daily scheduled flights between Victoria and Port Hardy. If you are looking for a sport-fishing destination for the 2015 season, you owe it to yourself to consider fishing the bountiful waters of Port Hardy with Wade. In my opinion, he is a “rock star” among fishing guides and truly a pleasure to spend time with. Visit Port Hardy and Bear Cove Cottages for a “wicked” salmon-fishing trip you will be telling your friends about for years. 32
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La Conner Marina By Sue Frause
WATER There’s something about La Conner’s connection to the water that sets it apart from other towns its size. This village was built when the waterways were the primary means of transportation. In those days, the biscuit whistle would blow at the cannery just around closing time. The womenfolk knew to put biscuits in the oven as the men made their way through town. Water towns have always attracted an interesting mix of people -- weathered characters with stories to tell, free spirits –La Conner Newcomers’ & Visitors Guide and artists.
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a Conner Marina, located on the Swinomish Channel in Skagit County, Washington, has been a premier destination for recreational boaters for 45 years. With the heart of the San Juan Islands only a two-hour cruise away, it’s popular with both locals and tourists alike. And the historic town that bears the marina’s name is a destination unto itself, and just two blocks south of the docks. Once in La Conner, it’s an easy stroll to town, or take a shuttle provided by the marina. La Conner was the first established community in Skagit County. Located on the delta near the mouth of the Skagit River, it became an artist’s haven in the 1930s. Known for its colorful tulip fields and festival in springtime, winter is also prime time, with the annual migration of 8,400 Snow Geese and Trumpeter Swans to the area. Arriving by boat, Bellingham is 20 miles to the north; Friday Harbor 18 miles to the west; and Everett 33 miles to the south. Once your boat is tied up and secure, stroll along the boardwalks connecting the First Street businesses or hike up the hill -- home to the historic Gaches Mansion that houses the La Conner Quilt & Textile Museum. The Skagit County Historical Museum is also up here, which includes sweeping views over the Skagit Valley. The Museum of Northwest Art features the works of such Northwest School artists as Morris Graves and Mark Tobey. There’s also a self-guided outdoor La Conner Sculpture Walk, featuring contemporary pieces in the downtown area. 36
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If you’re looking for tasty interactive stops, stop by La Conner Brewing Company, Washington Sips, Hellam’s Vineyard Wine Shop and Wine Bar, Silver Bell Winery and Olive Shoppe Gifts & More for beer, wine and oliveoil tastings. The Calico Cupboard Cafe & Bakery is a made-from-scratch bakery that 38
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opened in La Conner in 1981. Today, the breakfast and lunch spot also has locations in Mt. Vernon and Anacortes, and in 2004 they opened Seed’s Bistro & Bar in La Conner’s historic Tillinghast Seed Company building. La Conner Pub & Eatery boasts both history (it opened in 1937) and tasty pub fare with a view -- it’s known for
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its fish ‘n chips. Nell Thorn Restaurant & Pub is a waterfront lunch and dinner spot sourcing local ingredients from nearby farms, ranches and fishermen. Expect a menu that follows the season, and its full bar menu includes craft cocktails, carefully selected draft and bottled beer and wines by the glass.
Visiting La Conner Marina Owned and operated by the Port of Skagit, La Conner Marina holds a Clean Marina Program certification from Clean Marina Washington. It is open year-round; its services are extensive and include: • Two marina basins, north and south, on the east shore of the Swinomish Channel • Two docks totaling 2,400 linear feet of guest moorage • 366 covered berths (26-50 feet) • 131 open berths (30-60 feet) • 140 dry boat berths (dry storage) • Haul-out slip with sling hoist and fork lift • Pumpout facilities • Power and water • Restrooms, showers and laundry • Fuel dock and store • Propane • Chandlery • Service and repairs • Free WiFi • Shuttle service to downtown
Reservations are encouraged for overnight guest moorage (book online at www.portofskagit.com/laconner-marina). Fees are $.80 per foot (Oct. 1 - April 30) and $1.00 per foot (May 1 – Sept. 30). Vessels may check in after 1 p.m. and checkout time is noon. The current in the Swinomish Channel flows north when going to a high tide and south when going to a low tide. The best time to arrive at the marina is an hour before or after high or low tide. La Conner Marina 613 North 2nd Street PO Box 1120 La Conner, WA 98257 Phone: 360.466.3118 Fax: 360.466.3119 Dry Boat: 360.466.3195 VHF Channel 66A: Monitored daily, 8AM - 5PM
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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties
West Seattle Waterfront Home A Dream Turned Into Reality on Beach Drive By Russ Young
Take this simple test: close your eyes and imagine your waterfront dream home. Can you envision how you would maximize the views? Take advantage of the frontage along the water? Would you have a pool? A greenhouse? Study/office spaces? Where would you place your treasured art pieces? Can you identify the materials? Okay, now imagine that you’re going to build it where a house already stands. (Keep your eyes closed.) That hillside house has seven different levels and is made from “bits and pieces” -- a hodgepodge of recycled building materials. And you’re going to have to figure out what to do with the subterranean racquetball court and its ultra-thick poured concrete walls. You can open your eyes now. Does the prospect of building your dream home seem a little less dreamy? 40
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
Come Live the
Salt Spring Lifestyle!
Li Read Sea to Sky Premier Properties (Salt Spring) #4 - 105 Rainbow Road Salt Spring Island, BC 250-537-7647 LiRead33@gmail.com
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For many of us, perhaps. But not for Phyllis and Bob Tyson. They’ve taken a dream, worked hand-inhand with an architect in turning it into a vision, then stayed engaged as the dream became a reality. A rather spectacular reality, on West Seattle’s Beach Drive. It’s not the first time they’ve done this. The Tysons moved to Seattle in 2005 after selling a beloved customdesigned home above the beach in La Jolla, California. When they purchased the original Beach Drive house in 2005, they knew they would have to take it apart “brick by brick” and turn it into the home they could envision. They began looking for the right architectural partner, and after talking with several who didn’t grasp their vision, they met someone and, “Zing! That was a fit,” says Bob. That “fit” was Tom Kundig of Seattle’s Olson Kundig Architects. Inspired by his past projects and
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the way the Tysons were able to engage with him, the partnership was formed. Like all good partnerships, there was a certain amount of give-andtake. The Tyson’s love of curved roofs is apparent in the finished product; Kundig’s love of industrial steel is reflected in the front door. (There is a low window build into the door so the Tyson’s Standard Poodle can watch for visitors.) The white marble that makes up the two-sided fireplace was at Phyllis’ insistence – their architect was lobbying for steel – although Bob remembers the search for just the right stone. “We must have visited 10,000 stone shops before we found it,” he says. After three years of working together, the new house was ready for occupancy. Its aesthetics are a reflection of the combined vision of the Tysons and Kundig; its layout accommodates the personal and professional requirements of its owners.
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Phyllis and Bob are both psychoanalysts – he’s a psychiatrist, she’s a psychologist – so both have their own, substantially sized office/study areas. Bob’s takes in the view of Puget Sound; hers looks out on the bamboo and rock in the peaceful hillside garden. Above, the main floor and its topto-bottom windows offer a breathtaking view of the water and the Olympic Peninsula’s mountains. The open living room, dining room and kitchen all take in the vista, with a series of north-facing windows adding another view up the shoreline. The kitchen has an impressive array of Gaggenau appliances; the adjacent pantry hosts a second refrigerator; and there is a nearby open-air, but covered, porch for year-round barbequing. Below, the master suite and one of its two bathrooms offer an equally spectacular panoramic view. It features a sitting deck and his-and-hers
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A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes.
walk-in closets. The verticality of the site and the house are accommodated by an elevator – a favorite spot for the Tyson’s six grandchildren. There’s a greenhouse off the garden, although the Meyer lemon trees summer down near the pool. The exercise room on the ground level leads to the lap pool and an adjacent deck. What happened to that racquetball court, you might ask? The Tysons and Kundig used its 18-foot walls to build floor-to-ceiling library shelves, served by rolling ladders. Although it’s the only room without a view, it is surprisingly light-filled, thanks to a skylight that is nearly 40 feet above … and topped by a Chihulyinspired chandelier. The Tysons may do all of this again. They’ve decided to move back to California, and hope to find just the right oceanfront property. If they do, and if they once again turn their dreams into reality, expect a spectacular result. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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San Juan Island
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Fishing For the True Sportsman Hakai Lodge, BC By George Bivoino
O
ne of my lifelong dreams has been to spend a week at a salmon-fishing lodge in British Columbia. This year that dream came true; I was going to Hakai Lodge. Located in northern British Columbia, it is snuggled amidst a multitude of islands and channels, and is the natural home of whales, sea lions, eagles, and otters – and, of course, lots of fish. Hakai Lodge is a “fly in only” lodge and is a clear favorite for many longtime guests who return year after year, attracting a mix of individuals, couples, families, and corporate groups
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seeking the best salmon and halibut fishing in the Pacific Northwest. My excursion for trophy salmon fishing began aboard a de Havilland Beaver taking off from the south end of Lake Washington, near Renton Airport. Jimmy Howard, pilot for Northwest Seaplanes, gave us a tour I’ll never forget. Flying in a seaplane at a lower altitude provides one with an incredible, panoramic and highly detailed view of the topography that you can never see at 35,000 feet in an airliner. Our course took us over the San Juan Islands, then over the Canadian Gulf Islands before landing at Camp-
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bell River, BC, where we quickly cleared Canadian customs and then took off for Hakai Pass. Our flight took us low alongside, and over, the dazzling Canadian Rockies with magnificent glaciers, deep topaz-blue lakes, snow fields, and a view of 17,224foot Mount Logan, which is Canada’s highest mountain and the secondhighest peak in North America. This was the most stunning flight I have ever been on! Landing at the lodge around 1:00 pm, we motored up to the dock and were greeted by the owner, Clyde Carlson; Holli, the manager; and her
three sons. Clyde has owned the lodge since 2010. As owner of the seaplanes that bring guests to the fishing lodges of British Columbia and Alaska, he brings decades of experience. Under his ownership, the lodge and its fleet of Boston Whalers have been extensively upgraded and well maintained. Hakai is a floating lodge, and every winter the entire facility is broken down and transported inland to a more protected location for maintenance. After lunch we received an orientation about the boats and the gear we would be using, and the places to fish for salmon, halibut, ling cod and rockfish. Being a diehard angler I brought my own pole and reel, but the lodge provides everything you need to fish. My excitement was at its peak as we got into our boat with a guide and motored out to the spot he chose for our first afternoon. It was not long before we had a fish on the line. It was a nice-sized coho but we let it go since we were there primarily for chinook (king) salmon. We fished for a while, catching and releasing lots of coho, but soon we would need to head back for dinner. Since we didn’t land any chinook, we decided to keep a couple of 12 – 15 pound coho. Back at the lodge, the dock staff was there to meet us, clean our catch Mountain lake view from seaplane and get the boat near Campbell River, BC; Lana and ready for the next Larry Hanson fishing in their Hakai time out. Then it was Lodge Whaler; white sand beach just time to relax with minutes from the lodge. a cocktail, socialize with the other guests before dinner and hear about everyone’s fishing experiences. We all seemed to do about the same, catching lots of coho, although a couple from the Napa Valley reeled in a 46-pound chinook. Dinner was prime rib with all the fancy fixings, served with wine. You could hear everyone talking about The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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how good the dinner was. In fact, all of the meals were great. It was around 9:30 p.m. and I was exhausted from the flight and evening’s fishing and decided to turn in; the alarm would be going off at 5:00 a.m.. The next morning we talked with the staff about going out for halibut and found out that it was too rough in the area where they fish for halibut. So we headed to our boat and decided to go to a Aerial view of Hakai Lodge; different area to fish for chinook salmon. Doan Smith unloading As we motored passengers; Owner Clyde around and through Carlson entertaining guest the picturesque inlets Lou and Barb Bonner (NE), and bays, I was asPilot Jim Howard, and tounded by the rare beauty of this area; evPaul Onori (NJ) and John erything looked so prisOughton (FL). tine and untouched. We fished until lunch time, returning with five coho, but still did not catch any chinooks. We were told the kings were running a bit late for this season. After lunch we boarded our restocked Boston Whaler and went back to where we fished the previous day. The coho were plentiful and good sized. Every five minutes or so we had a fish on; sometimes two at a time. These coho were strong, long running, scrappy and acrobatic fighters. Most averaged between 12 and 15 pounds, and more than a few were close to 20 pounds. It was a fisherman’s dream, playing catch-and-release, keeping only the big ones. At the end of the day we had our limit of fish, and returned to the lodge for a glass of wine and more fish stories. As we sat on the dock enjoying a beautiful evening, one of the staff members tossed fish scraps into the water. The resident bald eagles soared down from the trees and accepted the offerings, only a few feet from the dock. The next morning, the wind was up again so we could not go halibut fish52
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Heading back to the lodge for lunch with our limit of salmon for the day.
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ing, but not so strong that we could not go where they catch ling cod and large rockfish. We were catching our share of fish, but soon the wind became stronger and we headed back to the shelter of the inner Islands. After a quick lunch at the lodge, we were back to the spot where we caught the cohos, hopeful that some chinook had arrived. Soon it was one fish after another, just like the day before. This time most of the coho were bigger – but still no chinook! We were using herring (whole and cut plug) for bait most of the time. We also tried a dodger and added some scent, which also worked well. Once again we limited out on big coho, and headed back for another fine dinner and more conversation with our fellow guests. The last day arrived too soon. It seemed that we just arrived, and it was already time to pack our gear, pack our fish, thank Clyde and the staff for a wonderful experience, and share goodbyes with everyone we had met. We now have new friends and fishing buddies in Washington, California, Nebraska and Florida. Flying out and looking down at all the places we fished for the past four days, I was heading home with memories and experiences that I never imagined I would ever have. The fishing is excellent,; the area is breathtakingly beautiful. We had another scenic flight back, gazing out the windows at the Canadian Rockies, endless forests, hundreds of islands and harbors. Soon we were flying over Seattle’s Lake Washington, landing back at the Renton seaplane terminal. There we Lana and Larry Hanson from were greeted by the Stanwood, WA after a great airline’s staff, who day on the water. unloaded our fish that was stowed in the pontoons of the seaplane. At the terminal the fish were all packed in boxes with ice packets ready for our trip home. 54
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Doug Dixon and his seven fishing buddies from California. Below; Holli Smith and her kitchen crew at the Lodge. Halibut and shrimp cooked to perfection!
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George Bivoino showing his Coho salmon, with Doan Smith (left) and Garrett Harris (right), fishing guides and dock crew at Hakai Lodge.
Hakai is not a five-star hotel -- it’s a real fishing lodge. But the accommodations are pleasantly comfortable, the staff very attentive, the meals wonderful and the fishing is spectacular. I have a freezer full of salmon, ling cod and rockfish to prove it. If you like fishing as much as I do, you must visit Hakai Lodge. I know I’ll be back.
More Information: Hakai Lodge 4010 Airport Rd. Suite 5 Anacortes, WA 98221 reservations & questions (800) 538-3551 (360) 293-1994 www.hakailodge.com
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Mike Sherlock checks on “Nadia,” the larger of the distillery’s two stills
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Halo, Horns & Heart Fremont Mischief Distillery By Russ Young
W
hen one tours a distillery, it’s expected that there will be discussion of ingredients, alcohol percentages, distilling processes and barrel aging. If you visit Seattle’s Fremont Mischief distillery, and sample their whiskies, vodka, gin, rum and “distilled spirit specialties,” you’ll undoubtedly hear that kind of talk. What you might not expect – but you’ll enjoy – are references to “the human spirit” and “giving back to the community,” stills named “Nadia” and “Mary Margaret,” and the essence of Indian coriander. Spend a little time with Mischief owners Patti and Mike Sherlock, and you’ll understand. Their distillery, and their approach to business, is as eclectic, refreshing and interesting as they are. He’s a former commercial fisherman, shipyard owner and houseboat builder. She owned a software company, and says their latest venture is “much more fun” than their previous endeavors: “Everyone who comes in here is smiling.” The smiles begin with the Sherlocks, who own what may be the Pacific The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Northwest’s only waterfront distillery. It’s a weathered-wood building along the canal that connects the Hiram Chittenden Locks and Seattle’s Lake Union. (Their nearby home, the remarkable houseboat “Aurora,” was featured in the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 issue of HARBORS.) At first glance, it may appear to be just another of the mixed-bag of lightindustrial facilities along the waterfront. Go inside, and experience the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of a distillery – along with plenty of smiles. You’ll see a steampunk dreamscape: magnificently crafted copper-andchrome stills and distilling towers, largely designed and fabricated by Mike. The distilling room has a replica of the Nautilus’ conning tower from Jules Verne’s “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea,” as well as some industrially inspired decorations that the proprietors are understandably proud of. Look carefully, and you’ll see amazing attention to detail, as well as many subtle whimsical touches in the construction and décor. Outside, there is an open area that is used for parties, performances and weddings; it will soon feature a retractable canopy for use during the rainy months. A storage building that faces the canal will soon feature rollup glass doors to provide even more event space and increased connection to the park-like waterfront. Back inside, you can sample John Jacob rye (look for the bicycle wheel on the bottom of its bottle); Workers No. 9 vodka, the sale of which benefits area firefighters; and Freedom Commemorative Mischief whiskey, which has the dog tag of a fallen U.S. soldier hanging from the neck of each bottle. Onequarter of the profits benefit Freedom Is Not Free, a group that supports wounded soldiers and their families. Similarly, the sale of Fremont Mischief vodka and gin support Washington’s Domestic Violence Hotline. Why share the profits for the greater good? “We like to say, with great mis62
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chief comes great responsibility,” says Patti. “To us it means helping our neighbors and our community, because when our community is strong, we’re all strong.” They also demonstrate a strong commitment to using ingredients sourced from local producers, as well as sustainability. Their spent grain, which comes of the stills at about 150 degrees, is used for heating the building during the cold months, then is sent to dairy farms for use as feed. They’re even making use of a nearby cider producer’s batch that turned bad. They redistilled it and added more apple juice. Patti’s still trying to come up with a name for the new brandy-like product, although by Washington’s liquor-labeling laws it will be a “distilled spirit specialty.” Mike likens their willingness to give back to how he used to fish. He always released the first one he caught, based on the belief that it would return even more. He speaks in similarly philosophical terms as he describes the heart, which along with a halo and subtly devilish horns, forms the Fremont Mischief logo. “Hearts are the center cut – the very finest spirits produced during distillation. Hearts also symbolize the best of the human spirit. For us, Fremont Mischief is both.” The “center cuts” are evident when tasting the finished products. Their whiskey is aged eight years, while their vodka, which can literally be made and bottled in hours, is allowed to “relax” for up to 12 weeks. During a recent tasting visit by the HARBORS team, the consensus favorite – but not an easy decision – was Fremont Mischief ’s gin. That’s probably attributable to the Sherlock’s blend of 13 botanicals, including Indian coriander and five aphrodisiacs, that give a distinctively different flavor than the often-overwhelming essence of juniper berry in other gins. They’ve invited in some of their Fremont business neighbors -- most noThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The decor inside and outside the distillery is whimsical; Patti and Mike Sherlock.
tably employees from Google, Adobe and Getty Images -- for help in blindtasting and refining their flavors. Mike says they provide a good demographic, along with a willingness to participate and enjoy the process. In the case of developing their gin there were more than 600 tasters, trying 21 different formula variations over a two-month period. The story of how the Sherlocks got started in the distilled-spirits business involves American fishermen, Japanese fishmongers, distillers in Kentucky and Canada, a school’s fundraising auction and a matador’s suit. (If that description leaves you begging for the rest of the story, check out Fremont Mischief ’s website.) Better yet, drop by the distillery and say hello to Patti and Mike. Don’t despair if they’re not around, although they put in incredibly long hours; their dozen employees share the energy and enthusiasm. And, of course, just a little mischief …
More Information:
Fremont Mischief 132 N. Canal St. Seattle, WA 98103 206-632-0957 www.fremontmischief.com
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Award-winning wines for Holiday Gifts & Events
Northwest Cellars wines are highly praised, including a Double Platinum, Platinum, 8 Double Gold, and 24 Gold Medals. Celebrate the holidays with a personal touch – ask about a custom label for you or your business!
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11909 124th Avenue NE Kirkland, WA 98034 (425) 825-9463 info@northwestcellars.com www.northwestcellars.com
Š Richard Duval Images
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HARBORS HolidayGiftIdeas
H HH Give the Gift that Keeps on Giving
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Mustang Survival Personal Floatation Devices: Amazing Technology By Todd Martin
A
s an outdoor writer, I am often on the water for fishing and photography. A couple years ago I purchased a Mustang Survival MD2012 auto-inflating Personal Floatation Device (PFD) and have enjoyed the peace of mind it provides while being very comfortable to wear. I quite often fish alone so the Mustang Survival PFD was just what I was looking for. Every summer, we pursue Dungeness crab in the productive waters of Birch Bay, Washington State in an older 14-foot car topper. We had already used our crab boat several times this year without incident. The weather on this particular day was beautiful with
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flat calm sea conditions. I was wearing my Mustang PFD while my nephew Parker donned a standard lifejacket, as he is only nine years old. I had always wanted to test my Mustang PFD as I had experienced rough conditions earlier this summer. Waves and spray had squarely impacted my MD2012 without it activating, so I had always wondered if it was fully functional. Little did I know that our serene crabbing excursion would provide that test. We exited the marina and throttled up while making a lazy turn to starboard. I had not put much thought into the large yachts that had exited the marina slightly ahead of us. As
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these boats accelerated out of the marina they left large wakes which turned out to be significant hazards to small watercraft. One of these wakes caught us mid-turn and shoved our cartopper into a wavetop skid. We were quickly pushed over and Parker slid off his front seat and into the water. As I had now lost my 80 pounds of human ballast, our bow rose up, and our boat gave me an ejection-seat ride out the stern. Shaking off our momentary shock, I realized we were both in the water and our boat was nearby. I was floating effortlessly and realized that my Mustang PFD had indeed activated and was fully inflated. Wow, this thing
and MD2017 (auto) are simply the best on the market. Boating accidents do happen -- even in ideal conditions. Do the right thing and ensure everyone in your boat is wearing an approved floatation device. They won’t work if you’re not wearing them.
Complete puzzle on page 82
really works! As we were so close to the marina entrance, three boats responded to our situation immediately. Parker jumped back into our boat and I did the same, with assistance of a boarding ladder from a nearby sailboat. We thanked our rescuers profusely, organized the disheveled boat and bailed out the transom, which had taken on water. We took stock of our situation and realized there was no need to head, in as we still had two very functional life jackets, were unharmed and the warm weather was preventing any possibility of hypothermia. We proceeded to check our crab pots only a short distance away, albeit with a bit more caution. We caught some fresh crab for the evening’s dinner and headed back to the marina with a story to share with the family. As an outdoor writer who often fishes alone, I am very impressed with the comfort and functionality of the Mustang line of PFD’s. I have since purchased a re-charge kit for my PFD, which was very easy to install and it is good-to-go again. I have also recently purchased additional Mustang PFD’s for my larger boat and everyone who wears them raves about them. Mustang Survival has two new models available for 2015. The MIT100 inflatable PFD MD2015 (manual)
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Hastings House, Salt Spring Island, BC
Do you know how to define “enviable unenviable task?” Start by sending a travel writer to spend two nights at the Hastings House County House Hotel on British Columbia’s Salt Spring Island. That’s the “enviable” part. The “unenviable task” is then asking that writer to describe that experience in 600 words or so. A stay at the Hastings House is one of those wonderful things in life that must be experienced to understand … but this writer will take on the unenviable task of describing it in mere words. Nestled at the northeast corner of the island’s Ganges Harbour, the resort – hotel, restaurant and spa –sits on 22 waterfront acres that include manicured lawns that are punctuated by sculptures; flower, vegetable and herb gardens, and trails through wooded areas. As Salt Spring and 72
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the other southern Gulf Islands are known as the Banana Belt of Canada, there are many more days in which to enjoy the grounds than usually expected in the Pacific Northwest. The Hastings “House” is actually a group of six buildings, including those known as the Manor House, Post Cottage and The Barn. The Manor, a reproduction of an 11th Century Briitsh home, has two upstairs suites that feature stone fireplaces and remarkable harbor views, along with the downstairs “living room” that is open to all guests, and the hotel restaurant. The romantic Post Cottage, a favorite for honeymoons, sits under a large pear tree near the edge of the main garden. It was the island’s original Hudson’s Bay Post Building. The Barn, which was converted from its namesake when the farm on the site became a hotel, is home to the on-site spa, two suites
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By Russ Young
and three bed-sitting rooms. There are also more modern, but well-appointed, suites on the hilltop and the somewhat secluded, casually comfortable, three-bedroom Churchill Cottage. They offer an admirable variety of views, space and décor, but share a common peaceful, relaxing vibe that permeates the Hastings House. There are ample indoor and outdoor spaces for curling up with a book, engaging in a bit of solitude, or conversing with friends, both old and new. Each morning begins with the discovery of a cloth bag on the doorknob. It contains freshly-baked muffins (still warm from the oven!) that are a perfect pairing with in-room coffee or tea. However, save room for a complimentary full English breakfast in The Manor, which is served daily. Afternoon tea is served in adjacent living room, which has an invit-
ing stone fireplace and wonderfully comfortable furniture. Hastings House is located just a short bike ride or walk from the village of Ganges, and its shops and restaurants. However, don’t be surprised if you have little or no desire to leave the grounds. From May to November, The Manor’s dining room is open for dinner nightly. During the summer months, the adjacent Verandah is designed to offer open-air dining. Both feature three-course meals prepared under the watchful eye of award-winning Executive Chef Marcel Kauer, who has worked at Hastings House for more than 22 years. He works closely with the head gardener, taking advantage of vegetables, fruit, herbs and edible flowers that are grown on site. Chef Kauer also places a special emphasis on locally-sourced food, taking advantage of the island’s history as an agricultural stronghold and its current reputation as a center for organic farming. His results are spectacular. On a recent visit, there were six choices of appetizers, including halibut, salmon and prawn chowder; a warm tomato tarte tatin; and peppered venison carpaccio. The five entrees were equally hard to select from, ranging from Salt Spring Island lamb or roasted veal loin to herb-crusted halibut or kalamata olive quinoa with smoked tofu. Choosing from six desserts was equally difficult. Describing the Hastings House in a few hundred words may be unenviable, but the experience itself is unforgettable. Stay there, and you will understand …
Hastings House 160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island, BC Canada V8K 2S2 800.661.9255 www.hastingshouse.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The Fairhaven Village Inn, Bellingham, WA
By Sue Frause
Located just a few miles south of downtown Bellingham, Washington, the historic Fairhaven district was founded in 1883 by Daniel Jefferson Harris -- aka “Dirty Dan.” Although its brick and wood buildings harken back to another era, there’s nothing old-fashioned or stodgy about this lively urban village. Fairhaven has creatively blended the old with the new, and its streets are lined with dozens of shops, restaurants and businesses that cater to both locals and visitors. It’s the ideal overnight or weekend escape; a perfect place to eat, sleep and play A cozy getaway in the district is the Fairhaven Village Inn, located across the street from Fairhaven Village Green, a pocket park used for community events. Although constructed in 1998, the hotel blends in nicely with neighboring late 19th-century buildings. The inn’s rooms are spacious and well appointed, many featuring fireplaces. Bayside Guestrooms have balconies with views of the working Fairhaven Harbor, and sunsets over Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands. Parkside Guestrooms offer views out to the Village Green and Fairhaven’s historic buildings. The Suite features two rooms, a dining table that accommodates 10 and a jetted tub. Amenities in all rooms include bathrobes; complimentary WiFi, continental breakfast and parking; and a $5 gift certificate to Village Books & Paper Dreams. The inn also has a porch on the second floor, along with a library (featuring 24-hour coffee and tea) and a small meeting room. Adjacent to the hotel are two fun spots for enjoying a meal or nightcap. Daphne’s (“drinks and a little food”) is a cozy cocktail lounge. Next door is Magdalena’s Creperie -- featuring both sweet and savory crepes for 74
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breakfast and lunch. The Euro-style cafe prepares all its own vegetables, meats, soups and baked goods from scratch (including Polish pirogis). Across the Village Green is the Colophon Cafe in Village Books; a block away is Purple Smile Wines for wine tasting. Just down the hill from the Inn at the end of Harris Avenue is the southern terminus of the Alaska Marine Highway at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal, with year-round ferry service to Alaska and seasonal foot-ferries to the San Juan Islands. Amtrak and Greyhound stations are also located here. The nearby 2.3-mile South Bay Trail starts just outside the inn’s doors at 10th and Mill, following the bay
all the way to downtown Bellingham. Part of the trail includes the Taylor Avenue Dock in front of The Chyrsallis Inn & Spa (a good spot for happy-hour appetizers and libations). From there, make your way to The Woods Coffee for locally roasted java. Going in the other direction is the southbound Interurban Trail, accessed down the street from the inn at 10th at Donavan. It winds seven miles along the creek and Bellingham Bay, ending up at Larrabee State Park on Chuckanut Drive. Pick up a walking map of Fairhaven’s historic buildings and landmarks in the lobby of the hotel. For something a bit more colorful, take the Dirty Dan Harris Fairhaven Walking Tour with Jim Rich, aka “Dirty Dan.”
The Historic Fairhaven Association sponsors year-round events, including the Fairhaven Holiday Festival beginning the day after Thanksgiving and the Pacific Northwest Rain Festival in February -- celebrating the region’s precipitation with rain-themed poetry, a rain-gear fashion show, home-decorated umbrella contest and even a queen to “reign” over the festivities.
Fairhaven Village Inn 1200 10th Street Bellingham, WA 98225 877.733.1100 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Fairmont Vancouver Airport, Richmond, BC
By Russ Young
If there are two words that are guaranteed to strike dread into the heart of travelers, they are almost certainly “airport hotel.” “The perception of airport hotels is that, at best, they provide something quick at a cheap price. They’re not known for being concerned about quality and service,” said Ken Flores, general manager of the Fairmont Vancouver Airport. “However, we are committed to helping travelers celebrate the journey, not the destination,” he said. That’s not to say that this airport hotel wouldn’t be an admirable destination in and of itself. It just happens to be a luxury hotel that sits above the main floor of one of Vancouver Airport’s terminals; a glass skybridge that leads to the lobby highlights that fact. Many of the rooms have remarkable views of the airport and airplanes, although the advanced soundproofing of the building makes the experience largely one of sights, not sounds. (The double-paned windows include springs and plastic film designed to equalize the pressure, deadening vibrations and the corresponding sound. If that’s not sufficient, there are designated “Quiet Zone” rooms that give up the airport view for even less sound.) There are those guests who are so enamored of watching takeoffs and landings that they order room-service meals just so they don’t have to stop their planespotting. Although the majority of its guests are travelers who are passing through Vancouver, the Fairmont offers many more reasons to stick around and enjoy the advantages of its Sea Island location. Are you a golfer? They have complimentary sets of clubs – and the hotel’s sleek black BMW X5 that will get you to the tee on time. Cyclist? There is a fleet of BMW bicycles available for use; the island’s bike trails are popu76
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lar with local cyclists. (And they are generally flat!) Birder? They’ll get you out watching. “armed” with Swarovski Optik binoculars and scopes. Or they can arrange a package with a local organization called Wild Research – you’ll be a “citizen scientist,” helping net and band local species. But if your primary interest is in taking it easy as you prepare for, or rest up after an international trip, or have an overnight layover, you’ve come to right place. There are the expected luxury-hotel amenities, including a business center, swim-jet and kid’s pools, a health club and the Absolute Spa. Without leaving the airport terminal building, a hotel guest has access to medical and dental services, banking, a pharmacy, a salon, fast food and a 24-hour Starbucks. Flores points out that the airport is a “24x7 mini city,” although you’re not far from all that Vancouver has to offer, if your schedule permits. (That includes both of the city’s seaplane terminals, one of which is mere minutes from the Fairmont.) Closer to one’s room, the Jetside Bar and it’s floor-to-ceiling windows are the most popular cocktail lounge at the airport. Globe YVR, the hotel restaurant, offers similarly stunning views, although menu choices such as Arabic-spiced lamb and leekand-chive gnocchi may take a diner’s attention away from the jets outside. Executive Chef Karan Suri -- who has worked in Dubai, India and on luxury safaris in Kenya -- and his team combine his experience with outstanding service to redefine “airport food” in an unforgettably spectacular fashion. That includes an in-house pastry shop, which is becoming increasingly rare even at many fine hotels, but Flores says that it is “part of a luxury experience.” And if this writer’s observations and opinions don’t convince you that the Fairmont Vancouver Airport should be included your itinerary, consider this: the hotel is the recipient of Sky-
trax’s 2014 World Airport Award as the top airport hotel in North America. Coupled with Vancouver’s fifth straight award as the continent’s top airport, they’re a seemingly unbeatable combination. “We aim to provide a first-class experience for first-class passengers,” said Flores. “But best of all, we provide that very same experience for the people who fly coach.”
Farimont Vancouver Airport 3111 Grant McConachie Way Vancouver, BC V7B 0A6 866.540.4441 www.fairmont.com/ vancouver-airport-richmond
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest. If you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
Joy Waltermire Occupation Long Live the Kings Steelhead Biologist Birthplace New Haven, CT
Rawle Jefferds Occupation Co-owner, Penn Cove
Occupation Commodore at Port
Shellfish Company
Angeles (WA) Yacht Club
Birthplace Ft. Eustis, VA
Birthplace Short Hills, NJ
Hometown Coupeville, WA
Hometown Port Angeles, WA
Favorite PNW Destination
Favorite PNW Destination
British Columbia coast
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Tahsis, B C. Nootka Sound area
Favorite Eatery Toby’s of
Coupeville, WA
Best Meal A FEAST of king salmon, topped with dungi crab, surrounded by spot prawns and great wine, aboard the M/V Maestra with cruising friends in BC.
Favorite Read Jack Reacher series by
Olympic National Park trails and back woods
Best Boating & Fishing Destination San Juan and Gulf
Olympic Mountains
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Lake Cushman and Hood Canal
Favorite Eatery Trinacria Ristorante and Matts in the Market Best Meal King crab legs dipped in
warm butter, sautéed kale and Olympic Mountain Ice Cream
Favorite Read War of the Whales
Favorite Eatery Those where the
Hobbies Backpacking, gardening, cooking, hiking and fishing with my boys Holmes and Everet. Trail running, skiing, yoga, listening to music, and coaching/playing basketball and baseball.
owner is the cook!
Best Meal Greg’s ribs Favorite Read Most recently Boys in the Boat (now I know why my wife and daughter row)
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
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Favorite PNW Destination
by Joshua Horwitz
Hobbies Fishing
Cruising northern BC with my friend John Rodriguey on his boat “Maestra” Eating the sea and living the life! What a trip that was!
Hometown Shelton, WA
Islands (all of them)
Hobbies Upgrading the boat – especially the electronics, working the dirt at home, cooking
Lee Child
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Randy Volker
Finding my way back to Port Angeles on the boat in pea soup fog. Anchoring in Cadboro Bay with a windlass that just would not cooperate. Seeing those marine mammals surface near the boata. Quiet nights anchored out with nobody else around. Visiting and exploring the numerous waterfront towns and villages on Vancouver Island, Gulf Islands, and the San Juan Islands.
www.harborsmagazine.com
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Every day I am blessed to be able to enjoy the rivers of the Olympic Peninsula while at work. The beauty and serenity of the rivers, and the fish who inhabit them, are truly majestic! However, my first saltwater fishing outing in the PNW was 20 miles off the coast by Aberdeen. We were in a 24-ft boat rock fishing. We got to the “spot” and dropped our lines. Within minutes, three of us had our limits. It was incredible how dense the fish were. On the way back to harbor, the weather picked up and we were amongst massive 40 foot waves. It was an unforgettable experience!
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
MISTY TODD
JOSH COLVIN
Occupation Owner of the Island Inn at 123 West -- Friday Harbor, WA
Occupation Publisher of Small Craft Advisor magazine and creator of the SCAMP sailboat.
Birthplace Billings, MT Hometown Living the good life in
Birthplace Los Angeles, CA
Friday Harbor!
Hometown Port Townsend, WA
Favorite PNW Destination
Favorite PNW Destination
Why, The Island Inn at 123 West, of course!
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Desolation Sound Favorite Eatery
Domo in Denver, CO
Best Meal Fresh-caught salmon
I get plenty of scenery and small-town charm in Port Townsend, so I sometimes satisfy my desire for city energy with trips to Seattle or Victoria. If we’re going with relaxation in mind then it’s usually the San Juan Islands.
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Close to home I sail
Favorite Read A good mystery
over to Mystery Bay and the little Nordland General Store on Marrowstone Island (they sell Whidbey Island Ice Cream), or up Chimacum Creek on a high tide.
Hobbies Fun with friends, traveling, kayaking our local waters
Anacortes
with local organic produce, lovingly prepared by my husband
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
On my first trip to the PNW, my family spent two weeks sailing, hiking and eating our way through the San Juan and Gulf Islands. We sailed on the Mariah – I fell in love and was hooked; it is the reason I live here now. The San Juan Islands are great for fishing, hiking, sailing, kayaking, whale watching, birding and wine tasting. What more could you ask for? Even the ferries offer a majestic scenic voyage through the islands, but I do appreciate a seaplane when I need to get somewhere fast.
Rob Meldrum Occupation Commodore at Edmonds (WA) Yacht Club Birthplace Hudson, OH Hometown Edmonds, WA Favorite PNW Destination Poulsbo, WA
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Chatterbox Falls, BC
Favorite Eatery Arnie’s in Edmonds, and Sirens in Port Townsend Best Meal I prepared a special meal
Favorite Eatery The Adrift in
for friends at our house: Caesar Salad made from scratch tableside, filet mignon with béarnaise sauce, lobster tails, twice-baked potatoes, asparagus spears, lots of good wine, and finished with homemade blackberry cobbler and a glass of port. Classic!
Best Meal Pizza and salad at Lanza’s
Favorite Read The Collected Works of Charles Dickens. What a writer!
Favorite Read You mean besides
Hobbies Playing guitar and singing in the Edmonds Yacht Club Band, boating, tennis, crabbing and scuba diving.
Hobbies I play bass guitar and coach
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Ristorante here in Port Townsend
your magazine and our magazine? Who has time for anything else? my kids’ sports teams
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
My trip sailing a 16-foot boat 150 miles from Beacon Rock to Astoria on the Columbia was certainly unforgettable—with its challenges and the ever-changing landscape along the river—but riding out a thunderstorm at anchor near Olga off Orcas Island, with the inflatable dinghy flying like a flag behind the boat, is one of many memorable moments.
Our first boat was a 28-footer and I was very proud. The first day we had her we went through the Ballard Locks. The lockmaster called for big boats, and I motored right into the big lock. He laughed out loud, then put us on the wall. We had three boats rafted off us, and we had to man the lines and keep us all right on the wall. I learned the hard way that it’s more fun to raft off a big boat -- or better yet, go through the small lock.
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HARBORS Seaplane/Floatplane
Passenger Guide Things you need to know...
Knowing how to find and use life preservers Stowing baggage Many operators do not permit carry-on baggage in the cabin because it can hurt someone if it isn’t well secured. If you can bring baggage on board, ask your pilot where and how to stow it safely. Certain dangerous goods or hazardous materials are illegal on board a seaplane/floatplane. Do not bring any gases, corrosives, spray cans, flammable liquids, explosives (including ammunition), poisons, magnetic materials, etc., onto the plane without checking with your pilot.
Using your seat belt Make sure the seat belt fits tight around your hips, and wear it at all times. Always use the shoulder harness if there is one. Practice finding and releasing the latch with both hands and your eyes closed until you are sure you could do it in an emergency.
Knowing how to find and use exits Not all seaplanes/floatplanes are the same. Learn where to find, and how to use, all exits before takeoff. Ask the pilot if you can practice opening the exit(s) before engine start up. Find the exit in relation to your left or right knee. If the exit is on your right while upright, it will still be on your right even if the seaplane/floatplane lands or comes to rest in another position. Taking the time to become familiar with the inside of the plane will help you find your way to an exit, even with your eyes closed.
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Seaplanes/floatplanes are required to carry life preservers or personal flotation devices (PFD) for every person on board. Find yours! Your pilot should provide a demonstration on where to find it, how to remove it from stowage and its packaging, how to put it on, how to inflate it, and when. Ask your pilot if you should wear it during the flight. If so, wear it, but NEVER INFLATE IT WHILE IN THE AIRCRAFT.
Passenger Briefing Checklist
Getting out safely! Underwater egress
• Baggage limits
In most water accidents, seaplanes/floatplanes come to rest upside down. The key to your survival is to stay aware of where to find the exit, and to get out of the aircraft and to the surface of the water as quickly as you can.
• Where baggage is stowed • How the seat belts work • How to secure seat backs and tray tables • How to know where you are in the plane, no matter its position • Where to find and how to use exits • Where to find the emergency locator transmitter (ELT), survival kit, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, etc. • Rules about using electronic devices • Where to find and how to use life preservers • Rules about smoking • Exiting underwater (underwater egress)
1. Stay calm— Think about what you are going to do when the initial shock of the impact passes. 2. Grab your life preserver/PFD— If time permits, put on, or at least, grab your life preserver or PFD. DO NOT INFLATE IT until after you exit the aircraft. Why? You cannot swim underwater with an inflated life preserver. You may get trapped. 3. Open the exit and grab hold— If sitting next to an exit, find and grab the exit handle in relation to your left or right knee. Open the exit. The exit may not open until the cabin is sufficiently flooded and the inside water pressure has equalized. DO NOT release your seatbelt and shoulder harness until you are ready to exit. Why? You will begin to float upwards, making it easy to become confused and more difficult to get to the exit. 4. Release your seat belt/harness— Once the exit is open, and you know your exit path, keep a hold of a fixed part of the seaplane/floatplane and release your belt with the other hand. 5. Exit the aircraft— Move towards your nearest exit. If it is blocked or jammed, immediately go to the next nearest exit. Always exit by placing one hand on a fixed part of the aircraft, and not letting go before grabbing another fixed part (hand over hand). Pull yourself through the exit. Do not let go until you are out. Resist the urge to kick, as you may get caught in loose wires or debris, or you might kick a person exiting right behind you. If you get stuck, back up, twist your body 90 degrees, and then exit. 6. Get to the surface— Once you have exited the seaplane/ floatplane, follow the bubbles to the surface. If you cannot, inflate your life preserver as a last resort. Exhale slowly as you rise. 7. Inflate your life preserver— Only inflate it when you are clear of the wreckage. Why? Life preservers can easily get caught on wreckage, block an exit or prevent someone else from exiting.
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HARBORS: The Pacific Northwest Journey From Horseshoe Bay to Lake Union and Neah Bay to Puget Sound, Harbors travels with you to the land of unparalleled natural beauty! Enjoy outdoor adventures, art and culture, wineries, and culinary destinations in your Pacific Northwest journey. Get started with this word seek and prepare for takeoff! □ �
ANCHOR
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FORESTS
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MARINA
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BEARS
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FORKS
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NAVIGATION
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BOATING
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GOLFING
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NEAH BAY
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COAST GUARD
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GULF ISLANDS
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OTTERS
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CRAB
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HORSESHOE BAY
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OUTDOORS
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EXPLORE
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LAKE UNION
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PACIFIC
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PUGET SOUND
A T C L B W P P S D M Y Y R K
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SALMON
L N R E V I S A M A R I N A Y
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SAN JUAN
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SCENERY
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SHORE
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STEELHEAD
L N G D G N S C S E E E D S N
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STREAMS
P D N J H E I E N T R S R C O
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SUND’S LODGE
X S I X O S F O S S H O R E M
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TOFINO
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TRAVEL
O D O X E N G V T K B E A R S
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VOYAGE
M G B U D R F U P R S T B Y C
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WILDERNESS
V A C A L L D C A E N N B A T E O K H V D N I E H J J B P O R S Y E O E A F R L A H U T F O U L A U R L
I T E A G T A I
E L T B L S L O N H O B R N L C O A S T G U A R D O L A E A
K E A A E N O I T A G I V A N
Solution page Solution onon page 71 xx.
V X X R G N I F L O G D P F Y Copyright © 2014 PennyDellPuzzles.com
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R-31 Command Bridge R-21EC
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C-30 Sport Top
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T
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