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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Joshua Colvin Sue Frause Deane R. Hislop
Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Russ Young Chris Villers
PHOTO CREDITS Deane R. Hislop, pgs. 14-20 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 22-27 Joshua Colvin, pgs. 28-33 Carl Bortolami and Lee Zuker, pgs. 40-47 AJ Hunt, pg. 41 (top right)
IMA, pgs. 50-51 AJ Hunt, pgs. 52-56 Sirius Signal, pg. 68-69 Wedgewood Hotel, pgs. 72-73 Joshua Colvin, pgs. 74-75 Semiahmoo Resort, pgs. 76-77
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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, This is a special time of year in the Pacific Northwest. Autumn is a refreshing season—and sometimes includes an extended “Indian summer” that can lengthen our boating and seaplane travel. But when late December brings the beginning of winter, it is the time when boaters and adventure travelers start planning for the spring and summer seasons ahead. To help you turn your travel dreams into travel realities, this issue brings you some awesome destinations, like the rivers of Alaska and the incredible fishing you’ll find in and on them. And Pierre’s at Echo Bay, BC, which is a must-stop while cruising the Salish Sea during 2016. We also take you to a new museum on San Juan Island, with some exceptional artwork that will be one more memory you take back from you travel adventures. HARBORS invites you to join us in discovering great year-round getaways for the rest and relaxation we all need after a long, active summer. And with the holidays approaching, we offer some great gift ideas and recipes for holiday cheer. We hope you enjoy HARBORS Magazine, and have a wonderful and memorable holiday season. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, stay safe and enjoy the journey!
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
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2015 November/December
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Features Pierre’s Echo Bay Lodge & Marina
Fun, History and Plenty of Good Food
22
Float Plane Shuttle to Salmon Heaven
28
Taquan Air
34
Travel Maps
40
On the Waterfront
50
San Juan Island Museum of Art
Alaska’s Multchatna River Ketchikan, AK
Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways
Shelton, WA
Friday Harbor, WA
(photo by AJ Hunt)
58
Holiday Gift Guide & Recipes
Cover Photo: Roche Harbor sunset during the Alexander Marine Rendezvous 2015.
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HARBORS Happenings
68
Gear Guide
72
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
78
Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
Get Ready for the Season Navigator Rendezvous
The Problem with Safety Flares Vancouver, BC • Ketchikan, AK • Blaine, WA
Meet the Faces of HARBORS Destinations
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Pierre’s Echo Bay Lodge & Marina Fun, history and plenty of good food By Deane R. Hislop
I
flipped the channel on the VHF radio to 66A and hailed “Pierre’s Echo Bay ... Pierre’s Echo Bay. Motor vessel Easy Goin’ over.” The friendly and welcoming voice of wharfinger and all-around good guy Maddog Mike responded “Easy Goin’ ... Pierre’s over.” As we arrived at our assigned slip Maddog was waiting to assist with our lines. Arlene and I have made a number of trips to British Columbia’s Broughton Island area over the past few years. The “Broughtons” as it’s known in the cruising community offers plenty to boaters with its beautiful scenery, wildlife, marine life, secluded anchorages and small wilderness marinas. One of the rustic facilities that we visit every time we are in the area is Pierre’s Echo Bay Lodge & Marina on Gilford Island. Each of the handful of marinas in the area has something unique to offer visitors and Pierre’s is no different.
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Our last visit was this past summer on Canada Day, July 1, to celebrate the national holiday with 75 of our closest Canadian and American friends. We had enjoyed the festivities so much a few years ago we had to return. The celebration began the day before as boats of all shapes and sizes arrived for the holiday. We soon got to know the other guests at an impromptu happy hour on the dock, with boaters bringing appetizers to share while enjoying their favorite beverages and swapping their best boating stories. Boats were decorated with colorful pennants and Canadian flags. Canadians and Americans alike were wearing their red and white. About mid-day Pierre Landry fired up a huge barbeque and loaded the rotisserie rack with enough prime rib to feed everyone. At 5 p.m., everyone gathered at the pavilion, and after singing “Oh Canada” and rounds of “Brother John” (“Frere Jacques”) in both English and French, dinner was served family style. After dessert the entertainment for the balance of the evening was the delightful music of the Davis family from Abbotsford. Canada Day is not the only day that long-bearded Pierre and his wife Tove (pronounced “Tova”) offer dinner for their guests. Each year they establish an event calendar which provides the schedule for the dinners, art shows, guest speakers and theme nights such as Christmas in July, Western Night, Viking Spirit, Circus Day and Pirate-Speak Only, to name but a few. The events run from the last week in June to the first week in September; for a copy of the schedule, check out Pierre’s web site. This year’s dinners rotated between prime rib, fish n’ chips and what Pierre’s is best known for: roasted whole pig. The Landrys provide the pig and do the barbecuing (on a unit that was built and donated by the Des Moines Yacht Club). Cruisers are asked to bring a hardy dish to share to round
WEST COAST VANCOUVER ISLAND C A N A D A
Fish, Relax, Repeat
855-266-3347 www.eaglenook.com • www.luckysportfishing.com
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Long-beard Pierre, head chef and host of Pierre’s at Echo Bay.
out the fare and everyone eats together like one big, happy family. The Saturday pig-roasts are popular with boaters and guests are requested to make reservations for arrival on Friday. The Landrys do not take reservations for Saturday arrivals so they can devote the entire day to the pig. Due to their popularity, moorage fills quickly. Kids get a kick out of the Landry’s hospitality and adults are encouraged to become kids again. Pierre’s is more than dinner. The family owned and operated marina is open year-round and is located in a well-protected deepwater bay, with a spectacular sheer rock cliff on one side. The facilities include a fuel float which offers diesel, gasoline and propane, 15-, 30- and 50-amp power, a well-stocked wilderness store, water, washrooms, showers, laundry, Wi-Fi, post office, gift shop and, new this year, a wood-burning saltwater hot tub. The marina is served by a number of seaplane operators, which makes it convenient for crew members to join you for a portion of your cruise or fly home. You don’t need to own a boat to enjoy Pierre’s. There are two selfcontained suites in the hand-built cedar lodge, with balconies overlooking the marina and the mountains to the north. The suites tend to rent out often so it’s recommended to make reservations early. A visit to Pierre’s isn’t complete without following the trail that leads to Billy Proctor’s Museum, open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The small museum contains relics and artifacts that Billy has found throughout the years. On display are arrowheads; antique tools, bottles and fishing gear; old photos; logging and trapping cabins; and a blacksmith shop. All donations to the museum go to salmon enhancement. A local pioneer, area legend and writer, Billy has co-authored two
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books about his life in the Broughtons. The first, co-authored with Alexandra Morton, Heart of the Raincoast tells stories about the region and the second, also written with Morton,
A local pioneer, area legend and writer, Billy Proctor has co-authored two books about his life in the Broughtons. Full Moon, Flood Tide, documents the history of the archipelago from the writer’s viewpoint. Both are excellent books that are well worth reading. A recent (since 2007) resident of Echo Bay is Nikki van Schyndel of Echo Bay EcoVentures. Prior to settling in Echo Bay, Nikki studied how to survive in the outdoors. Then she and a friend lived in the bush in the The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Broughtons for more than a year, subsisting on only what they could gather and living in the shelters they built. She has documented her experience in her book Becoming Wild. Today Nikki offers wildlife/nature adventures which include gathering edibles from the sea and forest, then preparing them for lunch. If foraging for your next meal is your thing, try the fishing in the area. There are salmon, halibut, rock cod, red snapper, prawns and crabs to be caught. Pierre’s is an unforgettable destination, a rustic reprieve, nestled in some of the most breathtaking scenery on the British Columbia coast. 20
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If you go.....
Fly in or out....
Pierre’s at Echo Bay 50 45’04” N/126 29’49” W VHF Channel 66A www.pierresbay.com info@pierresbay.com
Kenmore Air www.kenmoreair.com
Echo Bay Eco Ventures Nikki van Schyndell www.becomingwild.com aforestdweller@gmail.com
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Northwest Seaplanes, Inc www.nwseaplanes.com Pacific Coastal Airlines www.pacificcoastal.com Vancouver Island Airlines www.vancouverislandair.com
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Float Plane Shuttle To Salmon Heaven By Terry W. Sheely
Alaska’s Multchatna River is Remote, Unfished, Solid with Salmon Action and Stupid With Adventure.
T
he world’s busiest floatplane base fills the lake outside the dining-room window, and beyond that will be a canyon of blue glaciers, crevasse-scarred snow fields and a low-level flight between steep mountain walls that gush waterfalls. The destination is a sullen pool
packed with aggressive king salmon and giant sockeye that inhale my flies and send me careening downriver in awkward splashing pursuits. There will be seven days spent on a trio of remote salmon streams in the unpopulated tundra heart of southwest Alaska.
Carol Fraser passes the calamari and recommends the battered halibut, reminds me that eating seafood is good juju on which to launch a great fishing adventure. She has the soul of a salmon angler, a photo of a 27-pound king she caught recently and the title of general manager at the
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unique 240-room Lakefront Anchorage. Carol’s hotel is on Hood Lake (which hosts 190 seaplane landings on an average day); it’s the only hotel in Anchorage with a lobby decorated in Alaskan wildlife, and a dock where guests leave their rooms, climb into floatplanes and fly off to spectacular outback adventures. After leaving the hotel lobby, the next moose and brown bears I will see are in front of Kautumn Lodge on the Multchatna River, in the open tundra west of Lake Clark National Park. After an early breakfast of caribou sausage and eggs, I rendezvous with Kautumn Lodge owner Chet Benson, get squared away with Lake Clark Air and enjoy an eagle’s-eye view from the co-pilot’s seat. Weather re-routes us across Cook Inlet to a brief stop in Kenai, then a sulfur-scented flight between two active volcanoes—Mounts Illiamna and Redoubt—to a bare-necessity strip at Illiamna. The last leg of my first day was on a pontoon-outfitted de Havilland Beaver, crossing 45 minutes of seemingly endless open tundra. Miles of serpentine streams criss-crossed under our wings, outlined with willows that hide moose and wolves, and brown and black bears. For the return trip to Hood Lake we changed routes. settling into a 2½hour trip in a Sportsman’s Air Beaver, flying straight up the throat of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. “Spectacular” hardly describes this flight, curving 70 miles up a river valley between picturesque peaks; along ragged cliffs, alpine meadows and plunging waterfalls, often just 500 feet off the river and glaciers, sliding over the low pass and up the edge of Cook Inlet. For as far as we could see from the low-flying plane, there was not another soul, and not a building, save for a few random hunting huts. Landing at Chet and Halie Benson’s remote Kautumn Lodge is a wing-over circle and splash down on the quick24
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flowing Multchatna. With me were die-hard hunter and fisherman Ben Despins, and retired Circuit Court Judge Joel August, both from Maui. Our realization was that we were virtually alone, three fishermen and two guides, on a river with 114,000 king salmon. (The total of kings, chums, silvers and sockeye in the main river is a staggering 1.8 million.) The Multchatna is a major tributary to the world-class Nushagak River that flows into Bristol Bay at Dillingham. Unlike the heavily fished “Nush” 50 miles below the lodge, the Multchatna is even more remote and practically unfished. It’s virgin water devoid of fishing litter, sore-mouthed salmon, whining boat traffic and competing fishermen. It was just us, a few moose, a couple of rambling brown bears, eagles, osprey, beavers, mink, maybe a caribou or a wolf, and 114,000 king salmon. The small main lodge, down-home kitchen, and casual dining room sit
Above: Guide Dan unhooks one of my Multchatna rainbows Opposite: We weren’t the only fishermen on the Stuyahok
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Floatplane pilot Bryan Bailey with a king-size reason to grin. on a bluff with sweeping views of the 160-mile long Multchatna. Four private guest rooms with showers are in a separate cabin. Chet limits the lodge to eight fishermen a trip. At 6 a.m. the generator goes on; at 6:15 coffee is ready. Meals are served when the fishing is over, or taken on a river bank. Our main king fishing area wass a 14-mile stretch of fast-flowing Multchatna between the Koktuli and Stuyahok Rivers. We had a diverse three-river option of boat fishing for big river kings (and surges of August silvers), roaring up the skinny-water of the Koktuli in shallow-draft jet boats or wading up the stream-size Stuyahok casting to sockeye and chums, rainbows and grayling. The first day we went for the kings and we hit the bulls-eye—sort of. On the first drift, rolling clunky Blue Fox spinners along a rocky bottom, Ben nailed a small king and I caught three rainbows. Big trout, but not kings. On the second drift we began to get 26
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it dialed in. Power up to the head of the drift, kill the outboard, feather the float with oars, cast upstream, drift down and bounce big 7/8-ounce spinners along the bottom. Kings were packed into the slot; strikes were hard and frequent. Ben and Joel were with head guide Ross Wilkerson. I was with Dan Holybee, an enthusiastic big-game guide, free spirit and Alaska fanatic. There was a give-and-take click between us, verbal repartee that kept the hours interesting. The kings must have been lined up like dominoes at the bottom of this drift. The action was fast and stayed that way as we worked toward our daily limit of two each: one under and one over 28 inches. Joel was whomped by his biggest king ever—a 43-incher that wrapped him around the river for 10 minutes. I boated and released half-a-dozen kings, a couple of big rainbows and Dolly Varden, and kept two small jacks.
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The next morning Judge Joel served those jack fillets oozing buttery flavor, with breakfast eggs and moose sausage. Later, Ben nailed first king salmon, with Joel right behind him. I cast, felt the spinner tumble on rocks and get smoked. It was 36 inches, bright red, meat-firm and the king fought like its life depended on it. Two drifts later, I released a 40-incher. Limited on kings, we used our lastdays to explore the small rivers. The Koktuli is jet-boated, the Stuyahok walked and waded. We find a pool on the Stuyahok that’s continually being reloaded with incoming Dolly Varden, nasty chums and fresh sockeye. The dogged chums torture my fly rod; the acrobatic ‘eyes rip into the backing line, and thrash so hard and far downriver I often need to chase ‘em. One huge sockeye strikes directly below and rifles upstream straight at me: rod tip up over my head, stripping line madly. I can’t catch up. The salmon rips past me, turns and runs
behind me; slack line wraps around the rod, drapes behind the reel, hangs over my shoulder. I pull wildly at the tangle and come firm against the fish. It hurtles out of the water, flips and leaps again in wet flashes. The fly pulls out. You’ve gotta love it. It’s an amazing place. Even more amazing is that everybody says this pales compared to silver season; talking about August silvers makes their eyes glow. Dan warns matter-of-factly, “Drop a fly over the side of the boat and you better keep a firm grip on the rod or it’ll disappear. Kings, sockeye, chums—they’re really good. Silver fishing is just stupid crazy, though.”
The judge had a deft hand with salmon fillets.
If you go..... Lakefront Anchorage www.millenniumhotels.com Kautumn Lodge www.bearfootadventures.net Lake Clark Air www.lakeclarkair.com Sportsman’s Air www.alaskasport.com
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Taquan Air By Joshua Colvin
T
here are lots of ways to see Ketchikan, Alaska. You can come by airplane, ferry, car or cruise ship—or some transportation combination. But the best way to view this part of the world, and maybe the only way to fully comprehend the scale of the wilderness, is to explore the region by floatplane. On our summer visit to Ketchikan we flew with one of area’s bestknown floatplane operators, Taquan Air. After arriving at their bustling waterfront terminal we were greeted warmly by the front-desk staff and, after checking in, we poked around their well-provisioned gift shop until it was time for a short FAA-required
safety video. Then it was time to board. Walking down the docks toward our plane, we could see Taquan’s impressive fleet of distinctive blueand-white aircraft—some docked, some loading, and others taking off or landing along Tongass Narrows, right in front of the airline’s headquarters. Most of Taquan’s planes are modernized DeHavilland Beavers, the legendary “bush planes” equipped with a 450-horsepower Pratt & Whitney engine. and capable of carrying six passengers or 2100 pounds of useful load. However, we flew on their Cessna Caravan, which, with
its 868-horsepower turboprop engine, can carry nine passengers. Even at a glance, it was apparent that Taquan Air is one of the largest and most professional of the 15 or so airlines in Ketchikan. Their 16,000 square-foot facility is state of the art, with its check-in area, passenger lounge, operations offices, hangars, ramps and floats. Founded in 1977, Taquan’s fleet has grown from one to nine planes. As participants in the Medallion Foundation Aviation Safety Program and in the FAA’s Capstone Program (related to employing the most modern technologies), we felt very good about their commitment to safety.
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After we and our fellow passengers had boarded, our pilot gave us a quick overview and asked us to put on our headsets, which offered ear protection and allowed us to hear his voice over the roar of the engine. After we were airborne he started a recording with a virtual tour-guide pointing out interesting sites and describing regional wildlife. As residents of Washington state we thought we knew what wilderness looked like, but flying above the rugged and remote Alaskan bush had us reconsidering. The vast expanse of islands, salt and freshwater bays, wooded forests, and granite peaks was almost unfathomable. And because Ketchikan and adjacent Saxman encompass only a fraction of the otherwise uninhabited Revillagigedo Island (50 miles long and 35 miles wide) and the nearby Alaskan mainland is essentially uninhabited, within a few minutes of takeoff we were flying over truly wild country. 30
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FIND YOUR ESCAPE
Learn more at cubcrafters.com Yakima, WA | 509.248.9491
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Our destination was the famous Misty Fiords National Monument, a 2.3-million acre park located about 40 miles east of Ketchikan. The “Mistys” are a series striking 70-million year-old granite peaks that rise straight up from the water to as high as 3,000 feet above sea level. And while we’d hoped for a sunny day, it might have been even better that we got to see the peaks shrouded in the cool mist that gives them their name. While we repeatedly tapped each other on the shoulder to point out one spectacular waterfall after another, and scanned the spruce- and hemlock-covered landscape for bears, mountain goats and wolves, our pilot’s voice came over the headset to say we were heading in for a landing on the remote alpine lake below. As we touched down on the pristine, deep blue water, surrounded by rivers, more waterfalls, and countless protected coves, we were sure we’d see a few cabins, a fishing boat or two—some sign of civilization. After all, how could a spot this beautiful, this close to Ketchikan, this ripe for exploration, be totally uninhabited? Our friendly young pilot allowed us to unbuckle and exit the aircraft, with everyone aboard walking out on to the Cessna’s pontoons. The view from down on the water was breathtaking and we took the once-in-alifetime opportunity to snap a few photos as we asked our pilot about the ups and downs (both literal and figurative) of bush flying. Before long we were strapped in and taking off, headed for Ketchikan. Flying back in the company of other floatplanes and eventually skimming over cruise ships in port as we made our approach, we returned with a better sense of both the tremendous beauty and the incredible scale of southeast Alaska, thanks to Taquan Air. www.taquanair.com 32
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Ketchikan to Skagway
Alaska
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* seaplane service available at all destinations by charter.
broughton islands desolation sound discovery islands Nanaimo North vancouver island sunshine Coast west vancouver island
bC seaplane service*
Cortes island denman island Hornby island Galiano island mayne island Pender island Powell river Quadra island salt spring island saturna island sunshine Coast southern Gulf islands vancouver victoria
bC Ferries service
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Silva Bay
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Cape Flattery
Neah Bay
Tatoosh I.
Bamfield
False Bay
Lopez Airport
Friday Harbor
Clallam Bay
Sekiu
SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Lime Kiln Pt.
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Sidney
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I
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Birch Bay
Samish Bay
Portage I.
Lake Samish
BELLINGHAM Lake Whatcom
Bellingham International Airport
Abbotsford
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Bellingham Bay
Sandy Pt. Lummi Bay Lummi I.
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Sucia I.
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Miner’s Bay
GULF ISLANDS
Stuart I.
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Port Washington
Sechelt
Strait of Georgia
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MONTAGUE HARBOUR
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VANCOUVER ISLAND
Allan I.
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Sperry Peninsula
Decatur I.
Blakely I.
ISLAND
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Camp Orkila
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Roche Harbor
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38 U MO
Haro Strait
Nanaimo to Olympia
Puget Sound
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Bellingham Gulf Islands Nanaimo Puget Sound Salt Spring Island San Juan Islands Seattle Vancouver Island Victoria
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OLYMPIA
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SEATTLE
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NAS Whidbey Island
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Iceberg Pt.
Coupeville Penn
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Lake Goodwin
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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On the Waterfront: Shelton, WA Home A Peaceful Place, With Views Galore By Russ Young
If you’ve ever wondered about the pros and cons of living in an iconic waterfront home, you might want to chat with Lee and Marlene Zuker about their house at the edge of Hammersley Inlet, near Shelton, Washington. “It’s not uncommon for people to refer to our home as ‘ol’ Doc Collier’s house,’ even though we’ve owned it since 1992, and have lived here fulltime since 2010,” said Lee. However, rather than bury the past, the Zukers have embraced it, taking time to research their home’s history and to learn more about the man whose name is still associated with it by some area residents. “Ol’ Doc Collier” was actually Boy Norfleet Collier, MD, a native Texan who came to Shelton after graduating from the University of Texas’ medical school. He practiced medicine in Shelton for 50 years, retiring in 1982. Dr. Collier’s house was designed to accommodate one of his true loves, which was flying. The basement was a hangar for his Taylorcraft floatplane; sliding doors opened so that the airplane could be rolled via a dolly on railroad tracks into the inlet. The basement has been modified to house Lee’s workshop, although reminders of its original purpose reThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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main, including the winch used to launch and recover the floatplane. Lee is no stranger to flying; he’s an MIT-educated engineer who was a research-and-development pilot in the U.S. Air Force who later worked for Boeing, Cessna and other aerospace companies. Some of his handiwork is on display in the living room, in the form of a replica of a 1776 French double manual harpsichord that he built. Marlene, who has a fascinating pair of college degree—in home economics and art —is a painter; her first oil also graces the living room. She has a waterfront studio adjacent to the house, although it has been alternately used for storage, and for hosting friends 42
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and neighbors for a glass of wine while enjoying the view. It’s hard to talk with the Zukers about their five-bedroom, 6,400 square-foot house and its two acres without the conversation coming back to the view. “It’s heavenly ... the beauty of this place” said Mar-
Dr. Collier’s house was designed to accommodate one of his true loves, which was flying his seaplane. lene. “We never get tired of looking across the inlet, both at the boat traffic and the wildlife,” which includes orcas, seals, otters, eagles and heron, among others. The local waterfowl often use the former floatplane ramp as a surface on which to drop clams and oysters in order to break them open and devour their contents. Dr. Collier built the home in 1939, and—engineer that he is—Lee marvels at the quality of the materials and the construction. “He spared no expense, and everything is still deadsquare,” Lee said. The Zukers have made only minor changes to the original home, replacing all the windows, turning the floatplane hangar into the workshop and converting the original one-car garage into a magnificent cherry-shelved library. French doors lead onto a brick patio which was the garage entrance; it’s now where Marlene and Lee enjoy sunny outdoor breakfasts. (They also built an adjacent garage with a roomy apartment and office above—and space for five cars below. The Zukers are avid restorers and collectors of vintage automobiles; Lee was one of the founders of Club Auto in Kirkland, Washington and was a longtime The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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board member of the Pacific Northwest Concours d’Elegance.) Despite their love of the house, its history, the Shelton community and, yes, the view, Marlene and Lee have decided they’ve reached a point in their lives where its time to live in a retirement community. They’re actively looking for the right place to live, although they’re not yet sure where: “La Jolla? Yakima? Issaquah?” Regardless of where their next home may be located they’ll retain fond, lifelong memories of Hammersley Inlet and “Ol’ Doc Collier’s house.” And who knows—perhaps the home’s next owners will be such appreciators of its history, and its genial second owners, that it will become known as the “Collier-Zuker house.” 46
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We must be the change we wish to see in the world. Mahatma Gandhi
Cascadia is a non-profit whose mission is to promote the design, construction and operation of buildings in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia that are environmentally responsible, profitable and healthy places to live, work and learn. www.cascadiagbc.org 48
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SAN JUAN ISLAND to connect
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San Juan Islands Museum of Art By Sue Frause
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T
he San Juan Islands have long been a haven for artists and creative types. Studios and galleries are scattered throughout the archipelago, while festivals and studio tours are part of the flourishing art scene in the San Juans. And now the islands of the Salish Sea have a brand new home for the San Juan Islands Museum of Art (IMA). Located just a half-mile from the Washington State Ferries’ landing in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, the new museum opened in 2014 and is housed in the former Emergency Medical Services building on Spring Street. The roomy yet intimate space was designed by noted architect Richard Hobbs, and features 4,000 square feet of gallery space and 1,400 square feet devoted to workshop areas. The light-filled galleries are home to five contemporary exhibits a year. They range from individual artists to group themes and collaborative efforts. Both established and recognized artists, along with emerging artists, are represented in the genres of paint, photography, sculpture and installation art. There are also workshops, tours, films, concerts and culinary events throughout the year. The executive director of the IMA is Ian Boyden. With degrees in art history from Wesleyan and Yale Universities, Boyden is an artist in his own right, and has curated exhibitions from Oregon to China. He served as the director of the Sheehan Gallery at Whitman College in Walla Walla, WA for more than a decade. Most recently, he was an artist-scholar in residence at Suzhou University in China. Boyden is looking forward to the IMA being a hub in the community and working with the museum’s small staff and a dedicated group of experienced volunteers. The museum has put together an online Visual Artist Registry featuring local artists living in San Juan County. 52
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San Juan Islands Museum of Art Fall Exhibitions 2015
MICHAEL DAILEY Early Dawn to Late Twilight August 28 thru November 9, 2015 Northwest American artist Michael Dailey (1938-2009) is featured in an exhibition titled “Early Dawn to Twilight.” The 15 paintings demonstrate the progression of Dailey’s art from 1965-2009. Central to the exhibition are several large-scale color fields that meditate on the shifting light of the sky. Dailey’s luminous works tie his vision to such Hudson River School artists as John Frederick Kensett, abstract expressionists such as Mark Rothko and painters such as Richard Diekenborn. The exhibition presents a rare glimpse into the fluid nature of one of the Northwest’s great mystical painters. Michael Dailey was born in Des Moines, Iowa. He received his Bachelor of Arts and Master of Fine Arts degrees from the University of Iowa, and soon after moved to Seattle, where he taught painting and drawing at the University of Washington’s School of Art until 1998. His work was the subject of a retrospective at the Hallie-Ford Museum of Art at Willamette University in Salem, Oregon. After his retirement from the University of Washington, Dailey continued to live and work in Seattle until his death in 2009. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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KATHY VENTER Immersion August 28 thru December 14, 2015 Art as a Voice: November 4, San Juan Community Theater, 7PM Canadian sculptor Kathy Venter’s installation of six life-size human figures, titled Immersion, is suspended within the museum’s atrium space. Treating the atrium as a body of water, Venter’s figures float through the space, hovering within a moment and unaccountable to gravity, sound or breath. Venter states: “The sculptures are made from studies of my (live) models underwater. Water refers to another dimension, an altered state of consciousness—the spiritual. Figures in water react differently to sound, light, gravity and movement. The human experience under water is cocoon-like—as if transformed back to the womb and in a private world of its own. The sharpened intent is on the diminished effect of gravity on the figure, the free movement of the limbs and the evidence of the pressure of the surrounding water on clothing, hair and face.” Kathy Venter was born in South Africa and received her MFA degree in sculpture from that country’s Port Elizabeth School of Art and Design. Her work is in private and public collections throughout Canada—where she lives on Salt Spring Island, BC, the US and abroad. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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JOE MILLER Unlike Earth August 28 thru November 9, 2015 San Juan Island artist Joe Miller’s Unlike Earth is a survey of 17 exquisitely rendered images of unworldly structure and vibratory color. This is the first museum exhibition devoted to Miller’s “colorfolds,” a term that references the process by which he creates the paintings. Miller’s colorfold pieces involve intricately folding paper in which the exposed surfaces are painted. The paper is then unfolded one at a time, exposing the next unpainted surface, which is then painted, and continues until the paper is completely unfolded and the painting is complete. The paintings present a chain of visual thought and illustrates the artist’s state of mind over time. Joe Miller was born and raised in the mountains of the west, earned a Bachelor of Fine Arts at the University of Utah and a Masters of Science in Art at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. His work has been exhibited nationally and internationally and he was a (US) National Endowment for the Arts Artist-in-Residence at Arches, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. Miller is the subject of two films: “The Joe Miller Painting a Painting for a Film Film” and “A Sense of Place: The Artist and the American Land,” a two-hour documentary on eleven artists across the United States.
San Juan Islands Museum of Art 540 Spring Street Friday Harbor, WA 360.370.5050 Website: sjima.org Admission: Free The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Toasting the Holiday Festive Cocktails for the Holiday Season This year, do away with the egg nog and treat guests to cocktails that reflect the spirit of the season with festive garnishes, colors and ingredients. Add a twist to a traditional Irish whisky with a Merry Irishman and toast to 2016 with a Melon Ball Drop. For des-
Very Merry Berry Holiday
2 oz light rum 3 dashes Pernod 1 oz lemon juice ½ oz grenadine Chilled club soda Shake and pour into a rocks glass or martini glass. Top with berries.
Hot Toddy
1 part Irish Whisky 1 slice of lemon 2 lumps of sugar Fill to top with hot water Combine all ingredients and stir well. Serve in a glass mug and garnish with a cinnamon stick.
Holiday Hopper
1 oz Midori ½ oz Crème de Menthe Green ½ oz Crème de Cocao White 2 oz half-and-half Shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with mint leaves and raspberry.
sert, Zen out and wind down with a warm Zen Latte. Easy to make and pleasing to the most discerning palates, below are some seasonal cocktail trends and tastes created especially for the holidays. Cheers!
Dreaming of Zen
1 oz Zen ½ oz Midori 3 oz Mango juice White pepper 2 oz cream Shake/strain over ice into a martini glass or champagne flute. Garnish with mint leaves and a dash of nutmeg.
Merry Irishman
2 parts Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey 1 part Kahlua ½ part mint schnapps Serve over ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with candy cane.
Midori Melon Ball Drop
2 oz Midori 1 oz Skyy Citrus Infusions ½ oz elderflower liquor Juice ½ lemon Sugar Rim Shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a melon ball on the rim.
Zen Latte
1 ½ parts of Zen 6 parts steamed milk Stir and garnish with matcha powder.
Irish Iced Coffee
1 part Tullamore Dew Irish Whisky 1 part Carolans Irish Cream 1 part coffee liquor (or a shot of espresso) Shake and pour into a rocks glass topped with whipped cream.
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Š Richard Duval Images
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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
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HARBO RS happenings HA R B O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
Northwest Navigator Yacht Owners 10th Anniversary Rendezvous in Roche Harbor
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The Problem with Safety Flares and the Solution By Tom Tripp
A Sirius Signal SOS Distress Light being hoisted by a halyard to increase its visibility well beyond 10 nautical miles. Photo courtesy of Sirius Signal.
If you have a recreational boat that is 16 feet or longer, then you almost certainly have a safety-flare problem. That’s because you are required to carry night-suitable distress signals and that has always meant—until now—carrying some kind of pyrotechnic device; either flares or aerial shells or rockets. And if you’ve carried such pyrotechnics, you’ve had to deal with their expiration. That’s a problem on two levels—first, if you are boarded by the U.S. Coast Guard and undergo a safety inspection, expired flares will get you a failing grade. Second, what in the heck do you do with expired flares, anyway? You can’t just light them off and hope nobody sees them. You can’t throw them in the trash. And, needless to say, they don’t make good compost, or recycle well.* 68
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Even when you use them, pyrotechnic flares pose a danger to the user and the environment. Even when disposed of correctly, used marine flares contribute to the growing amount of toxic waste and pollution of our waterways. So here’s what you can do: Replace your flares with the SOS Distress Light and Flag from Sirius Signal, a new San Diego-based company. It is an LED Visual Distress Signal (VDS) that complies with all U.S. Coast Guard requirements for a night VDS. When combined with the included daytime distress signal flag, it meets all the requirements for both day and night VDS. More importantly, it doesn’t expire, it floats, and has both an omnidirectional horizontal and vertical SOS light signal visible for up to 10
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nautical miles. It will run six hours at peak intensity and will stay lit for approximately 60 hours on its three ‘C’-size alkaline batteries (which are included). Best of all, it never expires, freeing you from trying to figure out how to handle and dispose of a dangerous, environmentally unfriendly pyrotechnic. If you were going to buy a good flare/meteor-gun kit, you would spend in the neighborhood of $140. At just under $100 for the two-item Sirius Signal SOS C-1001 package, it’s not a financial burden. It weighs less than two pounds, is ten inches long and the LED segment is about five inches in diameter. The electronic innards are sealed with an O-ring and you can see through part of the casing to be sure there is a good seal. Nearly all bat-
A top and side view of the Sirius Signal LED SOS Distress Light. Photo courtesy of Sirius Signal.
one might see this light over a couple of days then you should truly be using a GPS locator beacon as well. Like so many boating-safety items, it’s okay to hope that you never get a chance to use an LED distress signal. But the feeling of security that comes with knowing you’ve got the right
gear “just in case” is priceless. Check with your local fire, police or public-works department for guidance on disposing of expired pyrotechnic safety devices. Your local U.S. or Canadian Coast Guard station might have some suggestions, too.
PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
HARBO RS
teries are expiration-dated nowadays, so it won’t be hard to ensure the unit will operate when it’s needed. You should always bring extra batteries with you on a longer trip, or if you want to be sure you can keep the light going for days. On the other hand, if you’re someplace where no
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa, Vancouver, BC
Downtown Vancouver abounds with first-class hotels, but one such hotel prides itself on being different from the rest. The 83-room boutique Wedgewood Hotel and Spa—a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux—is wholly family-owned and run, unlike the mega-hotels owned by global companies. The Wedgewood’s old-world charm captivates before you even enter the lobby. A coat-tailed doorman greets you and welcomes you into a lobby reminiscent of the foyer of a European manor house. Wood-paneled walls, elegant but comfortable furniture, and ornate candelabras and chandeliers evoke an atmosphere of gentility missing in more modern hotels. 72
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Located in the heart of Vancouver, the hotel is a short stroll from the high-end shops of Robson Street and the newly opened Nordstrom. The Vancouver Art Gallery, Robson Square (with its winter-time skating rink and summer dance venue) and the Vancouver Law Courts are across the road. The Bacchus Lounge, with its windows open to the street in good weather, is a popular watering hole for the city’s lawyers and judges. On the day I visited, the windows offered a view of the brilliant oranges and reds of the fall foliage. The award-winning Bacchus restaurant—with its red and gold velveteen drapes, pale embossed dining chairs, crimson divans and cozy fireplace—offers an intimate setting for a delicious meal.
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By Pat Awmack
In 1984, Greek-born Eleni Skalbania, after a number of years in the Vancouver hotel industry, purchased the former Mayfair Apartment Hotel and, after a major renovation, opened the doors of her pride and joy—the elegant Wedgewood Hotel. She filled the hotel with artwork from her private collection. Although Eleni passed away two years ago, the hotel is now co-owned by her two daughters. While daughter Marousa isn’t involved in the dayto-day operations at the hotel, her sister Elpie Marinakis Jackson—having worked at the hotel for over 20 years—is now the managing director. Eleni’s sister, Joanna Tsaparas-Piche, who worked with Eleni from the beginning, is director of Sales and Mar-
keting. When asked what makes their hotel different from the rest, she responded, “Being family-owned and -operated allows us to offer more personalized service than if we were part of a large hotel chain.” She also disclosed that they have many long-term employees, some of whom have been there for over 20 years. One of the highlights of my stay was the fact that my room had a full-size balcony, which is a feature of most of the rooms. Finding a balcony on a downtown hotel room is no easy task, so it’s a treat when you do. It was heaven to be able to open my balcony door and let in the warm September air. The bed was extremely comfortable and, although I slept with my window open, there was almost no street noise throughout the night. Free Wi-Fi for all hotel guests was an unexpected bonus, as was the complimentary box of chocolates from Daniel, Le Chocolat Belge—yum! Each room is complete with a Nespresso machine, for those who need their caffeine fix before they leave their room, along with the standard kettle, tea and coffee. Toiletries are by L’Occitane. The Wedgewood is approximately a 10-15 minute walk from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre, the convention center and the cruise-ship terminal. The Canada Line rapid-transit station to take you to the airport is five minutes away. It was obvious during Joanna’s and my chat over breakfast how important family is to the entire clan. That, and how proud they are of their hotel. I don’t blame them … it’s beautiful!
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa 845 Hornby St. Vancouver, BC V6Z 1V1 604.689.7777 www.wedgewoodhotel.com
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Edgewater Inn, Ketchikan, AK
We’re sitting at the Edgewater Inn Restaurant and Marina in Ketchikan, Alaska, looking northwest at perhaps the most spectacular sunset we’ve ever seen. Because we’re surrounded by an endless series of connected waterways and mountainous, wooded islands, the sunset is a complex one. Instead of watching the sun simply dip below the horizon we’re seeing uninhabited islets silhouette as the sun’s gold, then purple, light bounces between the mackerel sky and the glassy sea. The sunset seems to lasts forever, or at least its residual glow does. Here at 55 degrees north
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latitude there’s a full hour between sundown and the actual darkness of civil twilight. When a discussion is held about the world’s best sunsets, Alaska is not often mentioned, but it should be. Watching the red sun slip behind the walls of the Grand Canyon or searching for the ethereal “green flash” from a Hawaiian beach are two of life’s special rewards. But here in a place where they measure rain by the foot, where the weather is notoriously fickle, and where for half the year the sun barely makes an appearance, a sunset is something you earn.
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By Josh Colvin
And here in Ketchikan the view of the water is uniquely Alaskan, with fishing and ferry boats, cruise ships, floatplanes, helicopters, whales, and more eagles than seagulls. The scenery is spectacular, but during our stay at the Edgewater Inn we learned most people come to Ketchikan, “The Salmon Capitol of the World,” for the fishing. Located on the Tongass Narrows, the Inn serves this purpose well, acting as a sort of comfortable base camp, with simple, clean rooms, (or fancier ocean-view suites) and a restaurant that specializes in fresh-caught sea-
food—from blackened salmon to scallops Monaco, Alaskan halibut to cod Hollandaise. There’s also a boat dock and marina, and the Edgewater can arrange for half-day or daylong guided fishing tours. For the few outdoors-minded guests who spend more than just sleeping hours in their rooms, Edgewater amenities include broadband Wi-Fi, cable TV, room service and fresh coffee. Of course, the Edgewater can also be a basecamp for other activities—sightseeing or whale-watching tours, floatplane trips, and more. If you fancy shopping, there’s plenty of that downtown—Ketchikan receives nearly one million cruise-ship passengers each year. There are also some interesting native arts and culture sites, including the Saxman Native Village, with its largest collection of standing totem poles in the world. And as you’d expect, Ketchikan is also home to many established hiking areas, including the fantastic Rainbird Trail (named for the mythical Rainbird said to inhabit the local forest), a well-maintained 1.3-mile hike that wends through a towering rainforest above town, offering spectacular views of the city, surrounding islands and Tongass Narrows. Whatever your adventures, during the heart of summer you’ll have about 19 hours of usable daylight— and if you’re lucky, back at the Edgewater at day’s end, you just might be treated to one of the very best and longest sunsets in the world.
Edgewater Inn Restaurant & Marina 4871 North Tongass Ketchikan,AK 99901 907.247.2600 ketchikanedgewaterinn.com
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Semiahmoo Resort Golf and Spa, Blaine, WA
“South of the border” typically doesn’t conjure up images of steamed clams, mussels and sweet Dungeness crab swimming in butter. Yet, on a recent Saturday evening on Semiahmoo Spit—just a few thousand yards south of the USCanada border—Northwest shellfish is the featured item at a weekly clam bake. As the sun leisurely sets—taking more than two hours to color the harbor various shades of gold, orange, red and pink—Suresh Rao, food and beverage director at Semiahmoo Resort Golf and Spa, stops at every table. Instead of uttering a cursory “Is everything tasting fine?” Rao shakes hands with each guest, asks where they are from and takes time to get to know them. 76
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He’ll tell you when bonfires will be lit on the beach, and the best places to make s’mores and watch the Milky Way appear. “It’s kind of rustic,” he says about Semiahmoo. “That’s what makes it special.” Rustic, yes! But definitely not old fashioned. As the sun slips behind Point Roberts, a local band plays original arrangements of Bob Marley, Wilson Pickett and Bruce Springsteen songs. A wedding party steps out on the lawn to dance by the beach. It’s hard to think it can get any better than this. Purchased two years ago by Coastal Hotels, the resort adjacent to the 300-slip Semiahmoo Marina has been thoroughly updated with a focus on sustainability. Guest rooms
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By Chris Villiers
are trimmed with warm natural woods, and the new carpeting that runs throughout the resort was woven from recycled fishing nets from the Philippines. While carpet fibers came from across the Pacific, Semiahmoo’s three restaurants are firmly entrenched in the local cuisine’s farm-to-table ethic. What once was the world’s largest salmon cannery (operating from the 1890s into the 1950s), has been recycled into the Pierside Kitchen. A chalkboard lists local farms, bakeries and fisheries that source the restaurant. The chef grows fresh herbs and vegetables just outside. A pet-friendly resort, Semiahmoo’s Packers Oyster Bar features “Yappy Hours” and in-room dining options include a doggie menu of “half a pound of cooked ground beef served
with rice” for your four-legged companion. Food and drink are the perfect antidote for the hunger you’ll work up taking advantage of all the resort’s activities. There’s tennis (with indoor and outdoor courts), racquetball, swimming, jogging on an indoor track and morning yoga by the bay. Yet the resort’s claim to fame is highlighted in its middle name: Golf. Aficionados say the Arnold Palmer-designed Semiahmoo Golf and Country Club is the more “playerfriendly” of the two courses on site. Yet the course is sufficiently challenging to host the Western Athletic Conference’s women championship from April 21-24, 2016. The men’s WAC championship will occur one week later at Semiahmoo’s Loomis Trail Golf Club—a linksstyle course with water hazards on every hole. If your game’s not up to championship caliber, no worries. Four staff pros are available for lessons. Conclude your resort stay by visiting the spa. Enjoy a Togetherness Massage with your partner and feel hot stones rubbing stress from your back, legs and feet. At that point you’ll know that you’ve gotten away from the 9-to-5 pressures of city life. If you’ve come by boat, it’s back to the one of the two nearby marinas — either the one at the edge of the parking lot or the 629-slip Blaine Harbor (about one mile away via the resort’s Mercedes shuttle van)—for your trip back down Puget Sound or across Drayton Harbor to Canada’s south mainland.
Semiahmoo Resort Goft and Spa 9565 Semiahmoo Parkway, Blaine, WA 98230 360.318.2000 www.semiahmoo.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest. If you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
Capt. Lynn Danaher Occupation Owner of Friday Harbor
BETSY DAVIS Occupation Director of the
Northwest School of Wooden Boat Building—Port Hadlock, WA
Birthplace Seattle Hometown Port Townsend, WA Favorite PNW Destination Lake Quinault, WA
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Cama Beach State Park on Camano Island, WA
Favorite Eatery Ajax Café in Port
Hadlock
Best Meal Fresh salmon, cooked in any fashion
Favorite Read Any of the Phryne
Fisher detective novels by Kerry Greenwood
Hobbies Meals with pals, walking in the woods, kayaking Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Paddling a kayak on Puget Sound at night, with the stars reflecting on the water and the paddle strokes lighting up the water with bioluminescence.
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Lorin Yakiwchuk Occupation CEO/owner, Global
Vacation Rentals and director of the Friday Harbor Film Festival—Friday Harbor, WA
Birthplace Portland, OR
Athena Capital Corp.
Hometown Friday Harbor
Birthplace Minnedosa, Manitoba
Favorite PNW Destination
Hometown Richmond, BC
Victoria, BC and Lopez Island, WA
Favorite PNW Destination
Best Boating & Fishing Destination The San Juan and
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Richmond, Haida
Favorite Eatery Backdoor Kitchen in Friday Harbor and Chinooks, Seattle
Favorite Eatery Daves Fish and
Best Meal Steamed clams!!! Fresh white king salmon, prepared right
Best Meal Halibut and chips
tales of adventure
Favorite Read Britain in the Middle Ages: an archaeological history, by Francis Pryor
Hobbies I am an expedition leader
Coupeville and La Conner, WA
Gwaii/Queen Charlotte Islands
Chips—Steveston, BC
Gulf Islands
Favorite Read Historical fiction and
Hobbies English travel; raising flowers and gardening
for the Pacific Islands Research Institute; I will travel throughout Polynesia and Easter Island in May 2016! Plus, I serve on the board of The Explorers Club, New York City.
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW:
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
All-day cruising on a 50-footer up the Indian Arm, including dinner and, believe it or not, waterskiing! Then around to False Creek in Vancouver for party time!
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I founded, owned and operated San Juan Excursions in Friday Harbor from 1994 to 2000. I loved those moments when the whales would suddenly appear all around the boat; the squeals of delight from my passengers were a real thrill. But my truly special moments were those quiet, foggy, rainy afternoons alone on the flying bridge, while all the passengers were huddled below staying warm ... just me and the sea ... it was perfection.
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
CARRIE ANDREWS
Stan Selden
Occupation Communications manager, Northwest Maritime Center —Port Townsend, WA
Occupation Retired; Founding President of the Tacoma Waterfront Association—Tacoma, WA
Birthplace San Francisco
Birthplace Tacoma
Hometown Port Townsend
Hometown Tacoma
Favorite PNW Destination
Favorite PNW Destination
La Push, WA—beautiful beaches and great hiking, made more perfect by the lack of WiFi or cell coverage!
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Orcas Island, WA Favorite Eatery The Braeburn in
Langley on Whidbey Island, WA. Bacon grilled-cheese sandwich on raisin bread … sounds weird, but it’s amazing.
Best Meal Anything we throw to-
gether from our garden and the weekly Farmers Market—we have such an amazing array of food available locally!
Gulf Islands; Desolation Sound; Sitka, Alaska
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Sitka Favorite Eatery The Fish Peddler— on the Foss Waterway (formerly Johnny’s Seafood.) It has an adjacent float for seaplane and boat tie-up. Best Meal Most everything is well done, we like fish!
Favorite Read Boys in The Boat by Daniel James Brown
Favorite Read Best this summer: The Curve of Time, by M. Wylie Blanchet, and Crossing to Safety, by Wallace Stegner
Hobbies Power cruising, reading, rifle and pistol target-shooting.
Hobbies Hiking, gardening, biking, camping, traveling
In 2004, Joanne and I cruised from Tacoma up the Inside Passage, stopping at all the major destinations, all the way to Skagway and then out to Sitka. A high point was dodging the growlers at Tracy Arm, then returning via Craig, to Prince Rupert. It was a three-month excursion.
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
18 years ago we helped friends move the boat back to Port Townsend after a summer in the San Juans. We spent a long weekend before the trip home, hiking, kayaking and enjoying the fall weather. We visited islands that are only accessible by boat and had a couple of anchorages all to ourselves. Ideal weather, gorgeous old boat, stunning scenery, outdoor activities, and family and friends—it was a great trip!
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
Teddy Boxberger Occupation Producer, C.C. Filson
Co.—Seattle
Birthplace Houston, TX Hometown Seattle Favorite PNW Destination Jumping off from Lake Hood in Anchorage
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Beluga Lake, Tordrillo Mountains, AK
Favorite Eatery Loretta’s North-
westerner—Seattle
Best Meal Tavern burgers and a Rainier
Favorite Read For Whom the Bell Tolls by Ernest Hemingway Hobbies Scouting out the next location for a Filson photo story. Traveling. Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
While shooting with Filson this summer in Alaska we set up camp at Beluga Lake. Our team flew a canoe to Strandline Lake off the Triumvirate Glacier by strapping it to a float of one of Sportsman’s Air Service ‘s de Havilland Beavers. We were shooting photos around the icebergs in the lake when an under-glacier river ruptured, causing the entire lake to drain in less than 24 hours. We got great photos and then stood by our campfire all night, watching the water level rise over 15 feet in a matter of hours. Luckily, we didn’t have to activate our emergency evacuation plan.
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HOLIDAY CROSSWORD PUZZLE
Solution on page 69
HARBORS
ACROSS:
3. Houses are made of this treat during the holidays 6. A symptom that comes with a cold 8. An activity to do on the west side of Vancouver Island during the winter 11. What we use to get the snow off the walkway 14. We wait for him every Christmas Eve 15. Danced in their heads 17. Tis the ________________ 18. Important part of winter attire 19. Rudolph was one 22. Jewish holiday that comes near Christmas 24. What we give each other on the holidays 26. What bears do in the winter 27. Kissing under the ________________ 28. “Bah humbug” 30. They form on the eaves during the winter 31. What many do to their boats in the winter months 32. Good with brandy during the holidays 33. ___________ falling on my head
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DOWN:
1. Where you put your antifreeze 2. What we put in and on our homes (boats too) during the holidays 4. They keep your ears warm 5. A favorite winter drink on a cold afternoon 7. What many fisherman wear under their clothes 9. Thanksgiving pie 10. Winter holiday flower 12. What happens to your toes if they get too cold 13. Winter sport played on ice 16. Sometimes found on the road during cold winter weather 17. Raindrops that freeze into ice pellets before reaching the ground 20. Vehicle used in the Alaska’s Idiarod 21. Popular side dish on Thanksgiving 23. It cooks in the turkey 25. A popular winter sport 29. Santa’s helpers
Q U A L I T Y C R U I S I N G, REAL COMMUNITY You’re not just buying a boat, you’re joining our family.
W
hen you buy a Ranger Tug you expect the fuel efficient Volvo diesel performance, the convenience of trailering and the generous accommodations. What may come as a surprise is the passionate group of owners known as “Tugnuts.” Most everything you want to know about our boats, along with camaraderie, cruising, tips & customer service are just a few clicks way on our online forum Tugnuts.com.
“We see boating as a lifestyle choice more than a recreational activity and as such we were drawn to Ranger Tugs because, overall, we felt that being a member of the Ranger Tugs family would provide us with a feeling of community while doing what we love to do most… boat!” — Jim & Lisa Favors, R-27 TrailerTrawlerLife.com
RangerTugs.com Tugnuts.com
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